What lies beneath!!

[Biffa]

Well I discovered why the flow rate in my old desktop loop had dropped to almost nothing.

I thought that the pump was gone in my old XSPC bayres and that became an excellent excuse to rebuild my rig (build log to follow one day)

It was wierd because the fluid (Feser Green) looked fine in the bayres, nice and clear. Some of the tubing looked like it needed replacing but nothing major just what I thought was heat related clouding and staining from the fluid.

So I stripped the old machine down, everything looked ok so far, Res, pump, GPU block... but then I got to the CPU block, a Heatkiller 3.0 LT.

Something struck me as soon as I removed the fittings..


After dissasembly the state of the gunking becomes apparent:


IT LIVES!!!


Is it a breakdown of dyes or some other additives such as inhibitor in the Feser?, or it could be just some biodiverse beasties that got into a sealed loop.. I am not sure, but it convinced me my pump was dead, flow was almost zero.

[update]


So I'm convinced, I was before but this sealed it. Distilled, silver coil and PTNuke (now I'm paranoid!)

Beware.! check your loops, esp if flow starts to decrease.

[OC Maximus]

How dare you say Feser Dyes break down and cause a gunky mess in your waterblocks and loop.

DI and PT Nuke here.

OCM

[Philwong]

Man... that "mess" sure is nasty!!

Phil

[Church]

.. why sooner or later experienced LCers revert to distilled

[Biffa]

Yup, I already had for the past year or so, this was just my oldest setup and because the wife uses it all the time, I could only do brief maintenance on it untill the flow got so slow that it kept overheating and crashing.

BTW cleaned that crap out with toothbrush and ketchup, then a few washes with deionised water and its back to new

[aerial]

Btw which dye is considered as safest? It sux to disassembly waterblock for maintenance, such things always happen when they are least expected.

[Alexandr0s]

You can always use Mayhems dyes. They stain, but I've never heard anything about gunking. And if you want to be completely safe, get clear blue UV from him. It's not really a dye, so it doesn't stain either. Under normal light, it looks like regular distilled, but with UV, it looks like UV blue liquid.

[mlwood37]

The dye inst what has caused this problem its the reaction of the inhibitor. dyes stain systems, inhibitors gunk systems.

if you dye was to gunk your system it would look a little like this. (this is after the heating of the dye at 180c for 1 hr) , before its filtered for the first time. (this is the crap removed from a dye)

the stain build up is the deposits of the raw dye mixture before filtering. Once the dye is filters all this (crap) is removed.



Can say it over and over again

Dyes do not gunk they stain.

Inhibitors Gunk but do not stain ...

Maybe some one needs to email fesser and get them to re test there pre mix in this type of injection system. Instead of complain about it all the time on public forums ...

The only thing i can think of is when the liquids being passed through the injection system its partials are being forced to separate (not brake down or so called gunk) and this in turn is making this happen.


Because they lack corrosion inhibitors, plain glycols can actually increase the threat of corrosion. Glycols produce organic acids as they degrade, especially when heated. If left in solution, these acids will lower the fluid's pH. With no corrosion inhibitors to buffer these acids and protect the metals in the system, the corrosion rate of a plain ethylene or propylene glycol solution can be greater than plain water - a highly corrosive fluid in its own right.

meaning the inhibitor isnt working correctly as it should do and causing your problem.

when chatting to the maker of such products (as in the main manufactur) they actually pulled several of there products off the market due to this gunking (as you lot call it) effect. due the the "Inhibitor" not function correctly over long term use.

[Biffa]

Understood. Thanks for the technical input. Will amend first post.

Point is with coloured tubing there really isn't much point in using any dyes or liquids with dyes and addtives/inhibitors is there?

[zigzag]

Understood. Thanks for the technical input. Will amend first post.

Point is with coloured tubing there really isn't much point in using any dyes or liquids with dyes and addtives/inhibitors is there?

Nah, if you want your res lit up, just put some leds in it .

Man that jet plate looks ing disgusting

ops double post

[mlwood37]

Dyes are not for every one. Coloured tubing is good , as long as you get decent stuff as there is some real crap about just chose carefully

Coloured water looks cooler in some systems. But that is all it is at the end of the day just looks it has no other purpose. Its having a guy with a white T-Shirt standing next to a guy with a bright green t-Shirt. they both have the same cloths, they both are the same person in most respects, just one looks different to the other and people will make there own mind up which one looks best.

Its all down to personal taste.

You cannot beat Kill coil & d-water simple as that. its the perfect partner for a clean water cooling system.

But even with kill coil and d-water it needs flushing at least 1 time a year just the same as using dyes.

[the_dope_chaud]

Btw which dye is considered as safest?

The one that stays in the bottle. Never used it, never will.

[mlwood37]

The best dye is the UV clear blue, as it is not a dye.

UV Clear blue is a optical brighter and there for will never dye any tubing.

How if you ever after 100% pure safety then dont go water cooling lol.

there is a risk with every thing you do but proper maintenance of your system is essential with any thing to do with water cooling. even a silver Kill coil and D-water needs cleaning out as said. if you dont you water will go rank in the long term and you will get a silver build up in the loop.

[Stealth42o]

How dare you say Feser Dyes break down and cause a gunky mess in your waterblocks and loop.

I have never heard of such a thing.

Always wondered when it would be common knowledge not to use pre mixed coolants or dyes?

[ScottALot]

Is Primochill dye safe to use?

[mlwood37]

Is Primochill dye safe to use?

Mistake . yes i have tested them and they seem to work fine. I presume you mean the dye bombs.

[Cookiesowns]

Mistake . yes i have tested them and they seem to work fine. I presume you mean the dye bombs.

Hey, Mayhem. I'm thinking about picking up some of your dyes for my loop. What does the dye mainly stain? Tubing? Acrylic in the Res? Care to share some info? If it's tubing, doesn't matter to me. Stuff's cheap. Though for the Reservoir or blocks, that would steer me away.

[ScottALot]

Mistake . yes i have tested them and they seem to work fine. I presume you mean the dye bombs.

You're such a sport about answering questions about other dyes... I'd buy some of your stuff if you had blood red!

[mlwood37]

Sorry i feel like im thread jacking hear. Please check my main post about dyes and it will answer most your questions.

Ill post up picks of the blood red im working on as well.

[mlwood37]

ops double post

[Martinm210]

I haven't had any problems with distilled + PTnuke in mine, and have gone nearly two years straight without a flush now.

In fact, my hardware needs upgrading more so than my coolant.lol!

[Sadasius]

The one that stays in the bottle. Never used it, never will.

Smart man! Cannot beat distilled.

I haven't had any problems with distilled + PTnuke in mine, and have gone nearly two years straight without a flush now.

This is a testament in itself and one that I can share as well. Been over a year with my loop with just distilled and Primo LRT. If I want color I just add LED's (which I did and looks purty).

In fact, my hardware needs upgrading more so than my coolant.lol!

I share the same problem. Only reason to break down the loop actually is to upgrade components.