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If I'm understanding that correctly (probably not, as my brain shuts down when I read any kind of white paper or otherwise dry scientific document), that only happens when they try to smelt the two together in an electro-furnace. I really don't think a few random ions of each are going to cause any problems by themselves in a loop.
Circles SucQ!
If your annoyed by sigs telling you to put things in your sig, then put this in your sig
Bribery won't work on me...just say NO to AT!!!
The best coolant is no coolant. Don't clog up your tubes and gear with all that crap they sell. You can use distilled water, a few drops of biocide and some food coloring and never have to touch your rig again, except to top it up. I tried Zalman, Fluidxp, and even some recommended anti-freeze combo. Waste of time and money and nothing gained except a mess.
E6700 | eVGA 680i MB | 4GB OCZ Spec Ops DDR2-800 | Raptor 74GB + 150GB | eVGA 8800 GTX SLI | TJ07 | OCZ 1000w | HP LP3065 30" LCD
D-tek Fuzion | DD 8800 GTX GPU blocks | BIX GTX 480 & 240 Rad | 2 x Swiftech MCP655 Pump | 2 x EK-Res-200...all in one pimped out TJ07 case!
Project thread - http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=136408
I know this thread is a bit old, but...
I really really want to use green uv coolant, but still I dont want gunk in my system. What can I use? Distilled water + Feser View + PT Nuke? Or is there a better way?
I could also choose to use 3/4 ID green uv tube instead of 1/2 ID clear tube, but isn't that gonna change the performence?
It's because Watercoolingshop.com hasn't got any Feser UV Green 1/2 ID tubes, only 3/4 ID tubes...
Last edited by Sdammads; 01-06-2009 at 11:12 AM.
#80
What kind of fluid is that????
Think I'll take D5 with a aftermarked top and some 3/8 ID 1/2 OD UV green tubes + distilled water + PT Nuke. That's the best right?
zomg. end of discussion.
D.I. Water + Pt Nuke = best route for temps..
unless you get fancy and purchase nanofluid or something of the sort, which also doens't yield massive temp differences.
"fightoffyourdemons"
^^^ Seriously!
It's unreal that this thread is 4 pages long to say that Distilled and PT Nuke or .99 pure Silver in the loop is the best coolant. The thread title did specify "best" and that is THE best for temps. It's been tested and proven. Well until you get to exotic chemicals that cost a fortune and they are still working with those, and the jury is still out on them right now.
Feser UV Blue has been pretty solid for me and it is under 18 bucks over @ tilatech
http://www.tilatech.com/feonenoncoco.html
I like turtles
Components
Case: Cooler Master ATCS840/ PSU: Seasonic X750/
Mobo: Gigabyte GA-z68xp-ud4/ CPU: i5 2500k 4.2-4.8 GHz @ auto/
VGA: EVGA GTX570 SC 940, 1880, 4500 @ 1.1v (Lucid dGPU)/ Memory: 8 Gb G.Skill DDR3 1866
Storage: Corsair Force 3 120Gb SSD, Samsung 470 128Gb SSD, WD Scorpio Black 750 (Scythe Quiet Drive)
OSs: Win7 HP x86_64/ Kubuntu 11.04 x86_64
Cooling
CPU: Koolance CPU-370/ GPU: Koolance VID-NX580/ Rads: XSPC RX360, Swiftech MCR-220QP/ Pump: EK-DCP 2.2 (softmount)
Fans: 3x Noiseblocker m12-S1 @~500-750rpm, 3x Scythe GT 800 @~450-800RPM, Cooler Master 230mm (softmount) @300 RPM
Tubing: 3/8" x 5/8" Primochill LRT (black)
Fittings: Koolance compressions and 45/90 degree fittings
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Its my fault.. and no im not sorry about it either.[12:37] skinnee: quit helping me procrastinate block reviews, you asshat. :p
[12:38] Naekuh: i love watching u get the firing squad on XS
A classic! Thanks for the kit. It only provided temporary relief for me, so I decided to grab my special JD Shotglass and Went to the Old No.7! The top label Jack is put away for a special occasion that's coming up real soon!
If I didn;t love that stuff so much, I'd probably drink way too much of it. Try some...it'll cure anything that ails 'ya.
Components
Case: Cooler Master ATCS840/ PSU: Seasonic X750/
Mobo: Gigabyte GA-z68xp-ud4/ CPU: i5 2500k 4.2-4.8 GHz @ auto/
VGA: EVGA GTX570 SC 940, 1880, 4500 @ 1.1v (Lucid dGPU)/ Memory: 8 Gb G.Skill DDR3 1866
Storage: Corsair Force 3 120Gb SSD, Samsung 470 128Gb SSD, WD Scorpio Black 750 (Scythe Quiet Drive)
OSs: Win7 HP x86_64/ Kubuntu 11.04 x86_64
Cooling
CPU: Koolance CPU-370/ GPU: Koolance VID-NX580/ Rads: XSPC RX360, Swiftech MCR-220QP/ Pump: EK-DCP 2.2 (softmount)
Fans: 3x Noiseblocker m12-S1 @~500-750rpm, 3x Scythe GT 800 @~450-800RPM, Cooler Master 230mm (softmount) @300 RPM
Tubing: 3/8" x 5/8" Primochill LRT (black)
Fittings: Koolance compressions and 45/90 degree fittings
Certified Quiet PC Loony
Dude! Distilled water + PT Nuke -PHN + some of this
www.HotOverclock.com Founder & Editor in Chief
---------------------
Upgrading to X58 ...
Q6600 G0 @ 3.8GHz FSB 423MHz w/Swiftech H2O 120 Compact Dual 120mm fan Last OC Details Here
abit IX38 QuadGT Rev1.0 (X38 Rev.01)
4x1GB Patriot +SL PC2-6400 Based on Aeneon AET760UD00-25D Chips! @ 1:1 1000MHz 5-4-4-8 2.0v
Sapphire Radeon HD 4850 A2 Normal Edition @ Core 820MHz Mem 2100MHz
Display 19" LG FLATRON L1960TR LCD Contrast 3000:1 Response Time 2ms Lightning Fast!! w/f-Engine Chip and DFC Technology
HDD 250GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST3250820AS
HDD 120GB Maxtor Max.10 6L120M0
PSU Zalman ZM1000-HP 1000 Watt Six 12v Rail and Dual Seperate Board
A4Tech X7 Gaming Mouse X-750BF Dual Laser Engin w/2500DPI
More about my Memory : it can do 950MHz 4-4-4-8 2.0v Stable and 1100MHz 5-7-7-12 2.2v Stable and 1200MHz 6-8-8-21 2.3v not Stable!
www.HotOverclock.com Founder & Editor in Chief
---------------------
Upgrading to X58 ...
Q6600 G0 @ 3.8GHz FSB 423MHz w/Swiftech H2O 120 Compact Dual 120mm fan Last OC Details Here
abit IX38 QuadGT Rev1.0 (X38 Rev.01)
4x1GB Patriot +SL PC2-6400 Based on Aeneon AET760UD00-25D Chips! @ 1:1 1000MHz 5-4-4-8 2.0v
Sapphire Radeon HD 4850 A2 Normal Edition @ Core 820MHz Mem 2100MHz
Display 19" LG FLATRON L1960TR LCD Contrast 3000:1 Response Time 2ms Lightning Fast!! w/f-Engine Chip and DFC Technology
HDD 250GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST3250820AS
HDD 120GB Maxtor Max.10 6L120M0
PSU Zalman ZM1000-HP 1000 Watt Six 12v Rail and Dual Seperate Board
A4Tech X7 Gaming Mouse X-750BF Dual Laser Engin w/2500DPI
More about my Memory : it can do 950MHz 4-4-4-8 2.0v Stable and 1100MHz 5-7-7-12 2.2v Stable and 1200MHz 6-8-8-21 2.3v not Stable!
The regular PT Nuke may be better with a dye ...
from the description for the PHN version:
Primarily geared toward systems running straight distilled water, Nuke -PHN is not acidic and will not drop your coolant's pH, making it ideal for use in poorly buffered coolants and situations where corrosion is a concern (since many corrosion inhibitors are optimized for use within a pH range of 7-8.5). However, we do not recommend the use of Nuke -PHN with most "pre-mixed PC coolants" and dyes (though, our testing indicates that there may be no compatibility issue with Feser's UV dyes).
wth? Is there some performance differences in coolant's? I Prefer zalman, it's only coolant which I have used
Corsair Obsidian 650D - EVGA P67 FTW - Samsung F3 1Tb - 8Gb A-Data cheapest crap DDR3 - Intel Core i5 2500K w/ Corsair H50 - EVGA GTX 295 co-op - Corsair AX650
That PTS dye is yellow...wtf?Dude! Distilled water + PT Nuke -PHN + some of this
Nvm...I'll just use some uv tube.
My formula was just to make pale color because no one like colorless Coolant! please be informed ALWAYS COLOR WILL DROP YOUR PERFORMANCE then you can forget it and just use from Distilled water + PT Nuke -PHN (if you can go to bed with colorless coolant!!! )
and I think higher PH would be very better because while long time water PH will drop in closed area ...
Last edited by HamidFULL; 01-07-2009 at 02:25 PM. Reason: FIX
www.HotOverclock.com Founder & Editor in Chief
---------------------
Upgrading to X58 ...
Q6600 G0 @ 3.8GHz FSB 423MHz w/Swiftech H2O 120 Compact Dual 120mm fan Last OC Details Here
abit IX38 QuadGT Rev1.0 (X38 Rev.01)
4x1GB Patriot +SL PC2-6400 Based on Aeneon AET760UD00-25D Chips! @ 1:1 1000MHz 5-4-4-8 2.0v
Sapphire Radeon HD 4850 A2 Normal Edition @ Core 820MHz Mem 2100MHz
Display 19" LG FLATRON L1960TR LCD Contrast 3000:1 Response Time 2ms Lightning Fast!! w/f-Engine Chip and DFC Technology
HDD 250GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST3250820AS
HDD 120GB Maxtor Max.10 6L120M0
PSU Zalman ZM1000-HP 1000 Watt Six 12v Rail and Dual Seperate Board
A4Tech X7 Gaming Mouse X-750BF Dual Laser Engin w/2500DPI
More about my Memory : it can do 950MHz 4-4-4-8 2.0v Stable and 1100MHz 5-7-7-12 2.2v Stable and 1200MHz 6-8-8-21 2.3v not Stable!
Feser One!!!!
Rawr!!!
fluid xp worked greath for me, in the pass time, i have a leak, and drope over vga, and all safe, nothing happens, its realy works no conductive water.
Intel Core i7 / Liquid Cooled 24/7
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My vote goes for Walmart $0.89/gallon distilled water and a couple of drops of PTnuke.
While nanofluid seems to have some promise on really low flow rate type system, it's too much hassle in my opinion and hasn't been long term tested to completely understand what if any side effect/wear issues may be associated to that. Unless you're reaching boiling or freezing points of water temp which don't apply to water cooling, ethelyne glycol or any of the glycol based coolants/dyes don't do anything but hurt thermal performance and work as a biocide.
There are only two basic values that define a liquids thermal performance. Specific heat value and thermal conductivity, we happen to be gifted with the fact that water is about as good as it gets in these two areas. Everything else is simply a means to provide aesthetics, corrosion prevention, or algae prevent. Until a product starts advertising a specific heat value and thermal conductivity value that is higher than that of water, it's marketing BS.
Running a copper/brass only loop, you need not worry about corrosion. Algae yes, but two drops of PTnuke or a stick of silver in the reservoir will suffice that need. Or run solid black tubing to prevent "Light" from contacting the fluid.
There's really not anything out there that economical AND practical to use in water cooling that cools better than plain distilled water. Oh and forget about the marketing BS about non-conductive. Unless you live in a 100% sterile dust free environment which nobody does, any fluid you spill on your precious motherboard will become conductive.
Save your $$ and buy cheap distilled water is my suggestion. Add some biocide like PTnuke. DON'T mix metals in the loop (avoid aluminum like the plague), and use UV tubing if you want bling and you'll avoid becoming one of the many "Look at this gunk in my block" thread starters...
My 2c
Last edited by Martinm210; 01-07-2009 at 05:41 PM.
www.HotOverclock.com Founder & Editor in Chief
---------------------
Upgrading to X58 ...
Q6600 G0 @ 3.8GHz FSB 423MHz w/Swiftech H2O 120 Compact Dual 120mm fan Last OC Details Here
abit IX38 QuadGT Rev1.0 (X38 Rev.01)
4x1GB Patriot +SL PC2-6400 Based on Aeneon AET760UD00-25D Chips! @ 1:1 1000MHz 5-4-4-8 2.0v
Sapphire Radeon HD 4850 A2 Normal Edition @ Core 820MHz Mem 2100MHz
Display 19" LG FLATRON L1960TR LCD Contrast 3000:1 Response Time 2ms Lightning Fast!! w/f-Engine Chip and DFC Technology
HDD 250GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST3250820AS
HDD 120GB Maxtor Max.10 6L120M0
PSU Zalman ZM1000-HP 1000 Watt Six 12v Rail and Dual Seperate Board
A4Tech X7 Gaming Mouse X-750BF Dual Laser Engin w/2500DPI
More about my Memory : it can do 950MHz 4-4-4-8 2.0v Stable and 1100MHz 5-7-7-12 2.2v Stable and 1200MHz 6-8-8-21 2.3v not Stable!
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