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Thread: Whats the Best Coolant to buy?! ... Come on Bro!

  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by LockBreaker View Post
    The blue thing is more for the colour part of the build. I don't find clear water as interesting as something with a blue colour scheme in it.

    It's most for the look. If I change the water oftenly, will it be okay to use it then?

    Summary: G11 + PT Nuke + Distilled = Okay?
    I have no clue, since I'm a water cooling noob too (still waiting for most of parts to get here).

    But that is all i intend to do with my G11 too. Just give my distilled water a tint of blue, so i can see it's there (colored tubing isn't the same to me).
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  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by NaeKuh View Post
    actually WL silver and copper i hear does nasty things when they come in contact with each other...

    http://www.springerlink.com/content/f23j0ux68276j536/

    During elec-trorefining, the silver in the copper matrix dissolves, but it is rapidly removed from the elec-trolyte by a variety of reactions.

    Of course this is majorly speed up. :P
    If I'm understanding that correctly (probably not, as my brain shuts down when I read any kind of white paper or otherwise dry scientific document), that only happens when they try to smelt the two together in an electro-furnace. I really don't think a few random ions of each are going to cause any problems by themselves in a loop.
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    Quote Originally Posted by STi489 View Post
    Distilled water and PT nuke PHN FTW....I did run Feser one for abit but it left blue gunk in my blocks.
    The best coolant is no coolant. Don't clog up your tubes and gear with all that crap they sell. You can use distilled water, a few drops of biocide and some food coloring and never have to touch your rig again, except to top it up. I tried Zalman, Fluidxp, and even some recommended anti-freeze combo. Waste of time and money and nothing gained except a mess.
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    I know this thread is a bit old, but...

    I really really want to use green uv coolant, but still I dont want gunk in my system. What can I use? Distilled water + Feser View + PT Nuke? Or is there a better way?

    I could also choose to use 3/4 ID green uv tube instead of 1/2 ID clear tube, but isn't that gonna change the performence?
    It's because Watercoolingshop.com hasn't got any Feser UV Green 1/2 ID tubes, only 3/4 ID tubes...
    Last edited by Sdammads; 01-06-2009 at 11:12 AM.

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  6. #81
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    #80
    What kind of fluid is that????

    Think I'll take D5 with a aftermarked top and some 3/8 ID 1/2 OD UV green tubes + distilled water + PT Nuke. That's the best right?

  7. #82
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    zomg. end of discussion.

    D.I. Water + Pt Nuke = best route for temps..

    unless you get fancy and purchase nanofluid or something of the sort, which also doens't yield massive temp differences.
    "fightoffyourdemons"


  8. #83
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    ^^^ Seriously!

    It's unreal that this thread is 4 pages long to say that Distilled and PT Nuke or .99 pure Silver in the loop is the best coolant. The thread title did specify "best" and that is THE best for temps. It's been tested and proven. Well until you get to exotic chemicals that cost a fortune and they are still working with those, and the jury is still out on them right now.

  9. #84
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    Feser UV Blue has been pretty solid for me and it is under 18 bucks over @ tilatech

    http://www.tilatech.com/feonenoncoco.html
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    Quote Originally Posted by pika198 View Post
    Feser UV Blue has been pretty solid for me and it is under 18 bucks over @ tilatech

    http://www.tilatech.com/feonenoncoco.html
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    Quote Originally Posted by masaville View Post
    The best coolant is no coolant. Don't clog up your tubes and gear with all that crap they sell. You can use distilled water, a few drops of biocide and some food coloring and never have to touch your rig again, except to top it up. I tried Zalman, Fluidxp, and even some recommended anti-freeze combo. Waste of time and money and nothing gained except a mess.
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    Quote Originally Posted by warriorpoet View Post
    I like turtles

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    Quote Originally Posted by warriorpoet View Post
    A classic! Thanks for the kit. It only provided temporary relief for me, so I decided to grab my special JD Shotglass and Went to the Old No.7! The top label Jack is put away for a special occasion that's coming up real soon!

    If I didn;t love that stuff so much, I'd probably drink way too much of it. Try some...it'll cure anything that ails 'ya.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pika198 View Post
    just a joke man, chill
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sdammads View Post
    I know this thread is a bit old, but...

    I really really want to use green uv coolant, but still I dont want gunk in my system. What can I use? Distilled water + Feser View + PT Nuke? Or is there a better way?

    I could also choose to use 3/4 ID green uv tube instead of 1/2 ID clear tube, but isn't that gonna change the performence?
    It's because Watercoolingshop.com hasn't got any Feser UV Green 1/2 ID tubes, only 3/4 ID tubes...
    Dude! Distilled water + PT Nuke -PHN + some of this
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  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by warriorpoet View Post
    nice fun but sometimes real!!!
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  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by HamidFULL View Post
    Dude! Distilled water + PT Nuke -PHN + some of this
    The regular PT Nuke may be better with a dye ...

    from the description for the PHN version:
    Primarily geared toward systems running straight distilled water, Nuke -PHN is not acidic and will not drop your coolant's pH, making it ideal for use in poorly buffered coolants and situations where corrosion is a concern (since many corrosion inhibitors are optimized for use within a pH range of 7-8.5). However, we do not recommend the use of Nuke -PHN with most "pre-mixed PC coolants" and dyes (though, our testing indicates that there may be no compatibility issue with Feser's UV dyes).

  18. #93
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    wth? Is there some performance differences in coolant's? I Prefer zalman, it's only coolant which I have used
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    Dude! Distilled water + PT Nuke -PHN + some of this
    That PTS dye is yellow...wtf?

    Nvm...I'll just use some uv tube.

  20. #95
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    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by shazza View Post
    The regular PT Nuke may be better with a dye ...

    from the description for the PHN version:
    My formula was just to make pale color because no one like colorless Coolant! please be informed ALWAYS COLOR WILL DROP YOUR PERFORMANCE then you can forget it and just use from Distilled water + PT Nuke -PHN (if you can go to bed with colorless coolant!!! )

    and I think higher PH would be very better because while long time water PH will drop in closed area ...
    Last edited by HamidFULL; 01-07-2009 at 02:25 PM. Reason: FIX
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    Feser One!!!!

    Rawr!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by T_Flight View Post
    ^^^ Seriously!

    It's unreal that this thread is 4 pages long to say that Distilled and PT Nuke or .99 pure Silver in the loop is the best coolant. The thread title did specify "best" and that is THE best for temps. It's been tested and proven. Well until you get to exotic chemicals that cost a fortune and they are still working with those, and the jury is still out on them right now.
    no kidding. there is absolutely no argument.
    "fightoffyourdemons"


  23. #98
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    fluid xp worked greath for me, in the pass time, i have a leak, and drope over vga, and all safe, nothing happens, its realy works no conductive water.
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    My vote goes for Walmart $0.89/gallon distilled water and a couple of drops of PTnuke.

    While nanofluid seems to have some promise on really low flow rate type system, it's too much hassle in my opinion and hasn't been long term tested to completely understand what if any side effect/wear issues may be associated to that. Unless you're reaching boiling or freezing points of water temp which don't apply to water cooling, ethelyne glycol or any of the glycol based coolants/dyes don't do anything but hurt thermal performance and work as a biocide.

    There are only two basic values that define a liquids thermal performance. Specific heat value and thermal conductivity, we happen to be gifted with the fact that water is about as good as it gets in these two areas. Everything else is simply a means to provide aesthetics, corrosion prevention, or algae prevent. Until a product starts advertising a specific heat value and thermal conductivity value that is higher than that of water, it's marketing BS.

    Running a copper/brass only loop, you need not worry about corrosion. Algae yes, but two drops of PTnuke or a stick of silver in the reservoir will suffice that need. Or run solid black tubing to prevent "Light" from contacting the fluid.

    There's really not anything out there that economical AND practical to use in water cooling that cools better than plain distilled water. Oh and forget about the marketing BS about non-conductive. Unless you live in a 100% sterile dust free environment which nobody does, any fluid you spill on your precious motherboard will become conductive.

    Save your $$ and buy cheap distilled water is my suggestion. Add some biocide like PTnuke. DON'T mix metals in the loop (avoid aluminum like the plague), and use UV tubing if you want bling and you'll avoid becoming one of the many "Look at this gunk in my block" thread starters...

    My 2c
    Last edited by Martinm210; 01-07-2009 at 05:41 PM.

  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
    My vote goes for Walmart $0.89/gallon distilled water and a couple of drops of PTnuke.

    While nanofluid seems to have some promise on really low flow rate type system, it's too much hassle in my opinion and hasn't been long term tested to completely understand what if any side effect/wear issues may be associated to that. Unless you're reaching boiling or freezing points of water temp which don't apply to water cooling, ethelyne glycol or any of the glycol based coolants/dyes don't do anything but hurt thermal performance and work as a biocide.

    There are only two basic values that define a liquids thermal performance. Specific heat value and thermal conductivity, we happen to be gifted with the fact that water is about as good as it gets in these two areas. Everything else is simply a means to provide aesthetics, corrosion prevention, or algae prevent. Until a product starts advertising a specific heat value and thermal conductivity value that is higher than that of water, it's marketing BS.

    Running a copper/brass only loop, you need not worry about corrosion. Algae yes, but two drops of PTnuke or a stick of silver in the reservoir will suffice that need. Or run solid black tubing to prevent "Light" from contacting the fluid.

    There's really not anything out there that economical AND practical to use in water cooling that cools better than plain distilled water. Oh and forget about the marketing BS about non-conductive. Unless you live in a 100% sterile dust free environment which nobody does, any fluid you spill on your precious motherboard will become conductive.

    Save your $$ and buy cheap distilled water is my suggestion. Add some biocide like PTnuke. DON'T mix metals in the loop (avoid aluminum like the plague), and use UV tubing if you want bling and you'll avoid becoming one of the many "Look at this gunk in my block" thread starters...

    My 2c
    Martin, Thank you very much for your decent guide friends please be informed that Martin positioned as one of the most professional men in water cooling world!
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