"Teybers Rotary SS"

[teyber]

No you haven't. I use my 2 valve for dedicated nitrogen service

Is it not kosher to charge nitrogen through the same hose as other refrigerants?

[killermiller]

I haven't heard anything like that. I have read you should use different hoses for different oils though.

[jinu117]

You will have to clean hoses, replace them regulary anyways. (some of mine are overdue now) One way to avoid some of these is dedicated manifold set for each gases (which is what I do on some). Most of professionals tend to carry around 3-4 manifolds.

[teyber]

You will have to clean hoses, replace them regulary anyways. (some of mine are overdue now) One way to avoid some of these is dedicated manifold set for each gases (which is what I do on some). Most of professionals tend to carry around 3-4 manifolds.

I should have picked up a set of yellow-jacket hoses i saw for 35$ shipped.... How do you clean them jin? I will be using mineral oil btw

[teyber]

Wow, nice stuff ya got there

Thanks!

[teyber]

alright guys, my main new-years resolution that affects this thread ( i have many :P ) is to get my epa 608 full certification. So i will be able to handle and purchase all refrigerants including low and high pressure refrigerants. Tomorrow i am going to make a conscious effort to buy the course work and study information, and will take the the test hopefully between January 2-7th...

Merry x-mas all!

[killermiller]

Have you planned out the layout for the components yet?

[teyber]

Have you planned out the layout for the components yet?

For this build:

rechi-> desup-> 8x10" condenser-> spun copper service port-> .031" cap tube (i have .04" if i have similar problems as sneil and boshunter)-> custom evap->3 feet of suction line (i have a huuuuuge case )->rechi
Refrigerant: either r402a or r507a
No case on this build. Won't be keeping this unit most likely. MDF base or maybe a MDF case... I want to save my sheets of aluminum for other builds

Thats what im thinking for this build. For next build will use 1/2hp matu$hita rotary and have a nice aluminum case.

Regards

[LukeXE]

Just small advice but it will be better when you will braze service port (this is service valve right?) before condenser. If you will put it after condenser, then probably every time you will use it, liquid R507 or other refrigerant will cool your hand :p Pressure after/before condenser is that same, so...there will be no difference in measurents.

But it depends, for example, on hoses which you are using.

Wish you everything the best

Luke

[n00b 0f l337]

If you have low loss fittings and remove high side with unit off all is good

[LukeXE]

If you have low loss fittings and remove high side with unit off all is good

Yes, you`re right too

[teyber]

Still some good advice. Will problably help with tuning also, thanks for the adviec luke!

However, those spun ones are cheap and you don't have to crimp cap tube if your using for instance a suction filter...

[tim-]

on our units, its about the same, but the biger the condenser is, the bigger will the pressuredrop be.

i use quick couplers on highside, which means no lost.

[teyber]

quick couplers?

I had a talk with jinu last night. Well, today i bought myself a metalworking horizontal/verticle bandsaw!
Excuse the bad pics, i was walking over boxes and such because im still assembling it. The stand is a joke. I rested the bandsaw on top of it and the stan folded inwards. I am hoping to rig something up, i don't have room on a bench for this beast....

there she is sitting on my bench. please excuse blurry pics.

yeah i know its a bad pic. It isn't fully verticle as like i said it needs to be on the stand it came with for that. Here, the motor is hitting the bench keeping it from going verticle. But this is a sweet little toy

and the inspiration for cutting. i spent 20 minutes hacksawing and my hand was throbbing for that first 1/8" :P you can see at the top how jagged it is XD. This thing cut it awsomely... i think this is going to be a good investment. Im way out of room though, my garage (shop...) is completely filled, even with a new bench on the way it won't have enough room

Regards
p.s. the copper is for evaps

p.s. any bandsaw experts here please give me any machining advice, it seems too easy :P

[killermiller]

For such a young kid, you sure have alot of money to spend. What did that thing run you?

[rocket733]

Glad to see the metal bandsaw made your tool collection, it really does make things quite a bit easier. I don't know if you've purchased a new bi-metal blade but they have a longer life than the standard blades that come on the bandsaw.

[teyber]

For such a young kid, you sure have alot of money to spend. What did that thing run you?

160$ i saw that price and had to!

Glad to see the metal bandsaw made your tool collection, it really does make things quite a bit easier. I don't know if you've purchased a new bi-metal blade but they have a longer life than the standard blades that come on the bandsaw.

yeah i think it will be very useful. I will sometime buy that blade, but im just going to be honest. Im getting so sick of spending so much money I want my shop to settle down before i buy more things. Is it hard to change blades?

[teyber]

think i have fixed the stand. I will try to keep this thread mostly related to phase, so sorry for this picture. Im just glad i can put this somewhere that doesn't dominate bench space now
Had some 1"x.125" metal bar (if you can call metal that thin bar XD ) so i strung it across the weakest point and put in a series of rivits on both sides. its very sturdy now...


*EDIT* it seems the pic is not working. Can anyone else see?

[[XC] 2long4u]

For such a young kid, you sure have alot of money to spend. What did that thing run you?

I was thinking the same thing.
You can use a water based lube mixed with water too lube and cool down the work piece. You will need a small water pump with a resevoir. Depending how your setup is, this process may be too messy.
http://www.schaefferoil.com/datapdf/129.pdf

[jinu117]

WD-40 will do just fine. Go as low number as possible on tooth.
You won't get exactly square cut no matter what you try (but still adjust it as close as possible)... Just snatched up my cold saw today (damn... had to drive 60 miles) so I don't have to deal with my bandsaw lol...

[teyber]

WD-40 will do just fine. Go as low number as possible on tooth.
You won't get exactly square cut no matter what you try (but still adjust it as close as possible)... Just snatched up my cold saw today (damn... had to drive 60 miles) so I don't have to deal with my bandsaw lol...

aww you should have told me. i would have bought it of fyou wanna send me a pic of it in pm? I have a nice disk sander/belt sander combo, (i think its called table sander, its a hitachi) that i will use to sand it flat. thanks for the heads up though

[killermiller]

I will sometime buy that blade, but im just going to be honest. Im getting so sick of spending so much money I want my shop to settle down before i buy more things. Is it hard to change blades?

Whoa, must be nice.

[rocket733]

You don't need to buy a new blade yet, just something to keep in mind when the time comes. It's a fairly quick process to change the blade, there's a screw or two keeping the blade cover on and then you loosen up with the wheel and that's about it. It's certainly expensive to buy all that stuff at once. Like Jinu mentioned a low number on the blade tpi will cut faster but leave a rougher edge. While the disk sander will do a good job removing the marks and flattening the piece it'll be best to use your mill to be able to precisely square things up.

[tim-]

as long as you use decent cooling there is no issues with those blades, they will last long as long as you don't force it to much.

[teyber]

You don't need to buy a new blade yet, just something to keep in mind when the time comes. It's a fairly quick process to change the blade, there's a screw or two keeping the blade cover on and then you loosen up with the wheel and that's about it. It's certainly expensive to buy all that stuff at once. Like Jinu mentioned a low number on the blade tpi will cut faster but leave a rougher edge. While the disk sander will do a good job removing the marks and flattening the piece it'll be best to use your mill to be able to precisely square things up.

good point. But with the mill you need to have a very flat edge to set on the parallels, wheras on my disk sander i can get it to the main shape. but once i have almost 90 degree angles i will definatly fly cut them