Help the newbie with his build!!

[non]

Damn..TJ09 is a real beauty....lot of room but still classical

I just know that maximus is a micro atx board

[Talonman]

Yeha baby!!

This thing has an echo.

[bluep3ace]

that is VERY nice cable management.

[Talonman]

Thank you sir!

I didn't think I was going to do the lapping thing at first, but time, nervous energy, and solid improvements in temps posted by others put me over the edge. I lapped my Q6600 GO yesterday. My chip got fairley shiny, but still has a few tiny scratches. This is the last time I will see L726B397 on my chip! That was allot of 'Prime' numbers!! I took that as a good omen for Priming.



After: My GO L726B397 lost it's markings! I've heard that lapping increases the chips value on The Black Market. 4 out of 5 Spy's prefer this Quad processor, with all it's identification markings removed.
I kept the sandpaper moist, and the chip dry and clean. I also used 2 drops of dish soap in my water. I took my time, and let the chip's weight do the sanding. No wild drop of water ever hit the chip, nor a bunch of sanding dust.

Know that if you decide to do this, it's a labor of love and will take some time to do. If you just let the weight of the chip glide against the sandpaper as most recomend, it does take a few hours. My poor arm was pritty tired after sometime into the 3rd hour or so...
I didn't use any polish, or anything that might mess with the surface. I just used the standard AC cleaners after I was finished sanding.
I think I did er right.

My chip developed like most of the others. Copper around the edges first, then spots near the center turned copper, center all copper but still a ring inside the chip, finally all copper on the entire face.
Then I worked down the various grit's includid in the kit, using the finest last. The roughest paper in the kit was 800 grit.
It was apparent that the chip was not 'flat' when you start to sand it on a 'real' flat surface, just by the way the spotty copper pattern begins to immerge.
I am glad I did it, and am sure I didn't hurt the chip in any way.

Other than letting the good side of the CPU sit there on a virgin paper towel for 15 sec or so for the picture, it has never hit ground, and is untouched by man.
After cleaning, I remounted right away on the mobo too. I want it to be 100% healthy when it gets power for the first time.
She may not win a shiny contest, but she's flat for sure!

I used one of thoes lapping kits. It did have a nice assortment of sandpaper. I wouldn't have minded if it would have been a bit bigger, but I got by using it just fine.


I immediately remounted the chip after lapping, and love my processors new copper look! Between being Flat and Copper, this thing has just gotta transfer heat better now...

[maatriks]

It looks amazingly clean (y)

[Talonman]

Thanks maatriks, I think between the size of the TJ09 case, good placement of the plugs on the edge of the Maxamus SE mobo, and external cooling should all help to make it look pritty neet.

Still waiting for the next wonder GPU that can beat an 8800 Ultra. Nov will be my month.

It dosen't look quite as open now.

I did replace the 2 scraps of hose they give you with the Maximus SE, that are to be used in connecting to the NB block, with some Masterkleer 3/8" ID tubing. I didn't have much faith in the stock hose.
I also put some of my Tygon 1/2" ID to use too.

My plan is to use some 1/2" quick disconnects on the outside of the case, to connect to the WaterKegIII Xtreme.

I will put the GPU in the loop down the line, but with the quick dis-connects, and a minor tubing change off of the out of the NB, and I should be golden.

My self sealing quick dis-connects: http://quickcouplings.net/osc/index.php?cPath=21_30
or http://www.mcmaster.com/

(2) 51545K36 Polypropylene Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Panel Mnt Sckt, 1/2" Tube ID, 3/8" Cplg, Shut-Off Valve.

(2) 51545K54 Polypropylene Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug, 1/2" Tube ID, 3/8" Coupler, Shut-Off Valve.




I opted to use Arctic Silver Premium Ceramique over the AC-5 to mount the CPU block. I hear it is a wee bit better between the two on temps?

I also have some PT Nuke Biocide, and UV Blue reactive Pentosin G11 additive on site!

[Talonman]

I took the purple sticker off of my ram cooler. I think it looks better black.

[marauder16]

it's such a shame not to put a rad in a big case like that, you have lost of space on the top
nice work btw.

[TheGoat Eater]

I took the purple sticker off of my ram cooler. I think it looks better black.

It sure does look better black - great job and it looks damn fine to boot

[Talonman]

Thanks guy's!!

I actually favor the seperate external cooling unit myself. If I moved my PC around allot, mabey I would change my mind?

It rids my case of extra heat from inside, about as fast as it can be done. (No rad inside the case, or obstructing air flow of the case fans)
Moves allot of connections to outside of the case, helping to reduce my odds of an inside leak.
No pump heat inside the case.
It will allow me to spin my case in the air, to burp the blocks of any air bubbles, withought spilling a res inside my case.
Takes any fan noise, and moves it 3 more feet farther away from my desk.
With less clutter in my case, I still should get good air flow to aid in cooling the other things in general.
It has a built in drain, and it is easy to make the Keg itself, the lowest point in the entire loop. Water drains down hill!
Let's a much more experienced person do most of the assembly, insted of me. (First build)
Easy install. (For me!)
With my self sealing quick disconnects, I can do maint on the PC's loop, withought draining the rad or res.
Looks like 1 BadBoy unit too, and it lights up! I love my selection of cooling.

Oh yeha, it also insures best possible visibility, for the 'light up' Blue UV painted spider web, on the mobo tray too.
I have never seen anybody do this yet. I believe I will be the first. I sure hope it turned out OK....

I think my case, with it's 'open air flowing nature' should help me to have good temps...

Current favorite member exchange stolen from the "ASUS Maximus Formula SE " thread in the INTEL section of the board (Page 58 and 59):

OK, I am highly suggesting plumbing the Fusion block into your loop if you can. Dropped NB temp from 47°C to 34°C under load. NB volts at 1.65. It also helps anything on the heatpipe lose a degree or two, my SB temp is down some too. It didn't kill my flow too bad, dropped it some, but not bad. All I had was a CPU block in the loop anyways. And the MCP655 has a lot of push power.

I haven't tried without the fusion block, but i have the same temps with it connected. 33°C idle, 36°C load on NB. Around 32°C both idle/load on SB. ~1,65v on NB.
I have a SB X-Fi Gamer card in my last PCI port and i've got no problems at all with it.
Run my Q6600 on 3,8ghz (423*9) 1,5v vcore 100% Stable
btw. Best board i've ever owned for overclocking

Thanks for the posts boys! Makes me feel better about running the stock cooling on the SE.

It inspired me to start a data gathering thread on running the stock Maximus cooling:
Official Water Cooling Thread of the Stock Maximus SE ROG NB Club:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=164610

[Talonman]

This gives you a bettier view of exactly how far my loops are sticking out.

[Talonman]

How my system cost is going so far...

My System's Specifications

CASE:
(1) SilverStone TJ-09 Dream Machine Case - Black with window. $259.99
Temjin TJ09B S/N: 0708140029.

Display:
(1) Gateway FPD2485W HD Display, Mfg date: December 2006 - (1,920 x 1,200 normal resolution) $632.25
Baught on 2/22/07. FDP2485W S/N: MGL6C D0N 01119.

PSU
(1) Thermaltake Toughpower 1000w modular PSU. $339.99
Model: W0132 Cable Management.
Toughpower S/N: W0132RU0702000982

Motherboard:
(1) Asus Maximus SE. $300.00

CPU:
(1) Intel C2Q Q6600 GO 2.4GHz S775 SLACR. $279.99
S/N: L726B397

Ram:
(1) Corsair XMS2 4GB: 2 X 2GB Modules DDR2. $222.00
CM2X2048-6400C5DHX XMS2-6400 2048MB 800MHz 5-5-5-18 1.80V ver1.2 07384754.

Storage:
(2) Western Digital Raptor WD1500ADFD 150GB 10,000 RPM Serial ATA150 Hard Drives. Operating in RAID0 - (OS and games) $369.98
OEM Model: WDC WD1500ADFD-0.
Raptor-A S/N: WD-WMAP41799594.
Raptor-B S/N: WD-WMAP41796208.

(1) Western Digital Caviar SE16 750GB 7,200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive. (General storage) $189.99
OEM Model: WDC WD7500AAKS-0.
Caviar S/N: WD-WCAPT0193337.

(1) Samsung 250GB 7,200 RPM SATA-300 port with NCQ, 300 MB/s, Hard Drives. (General storage) $65.00
OEM Model: Samsung SP2504C.
SP2504C S/N: S09QJ1HLB11518.

Cards:
(1) TV Tuner card harvested out of my m7690n Pavilion.

Cooling (Air):
(5) 120mm Scythe S-FLEXT Case Fan. (63.7 CFM/28 dBA) $70.00
(1) ZALMAN ZM-MFC1 Fan Controller Panel. (4 fan speed control, and 2 togle switches) $29.99
(1) Corsair ram fan CMXAF1 RTL. $19.99
(1) Masscool FD07015S1M3/4 RTL. $3.99
(1) Silenx Ixtrema Pro Series 40mm 14dBA 5CFM. $17.00

Cooling (Water):
(1) WaterKegIII Xtreme. (Black with Blue CCFL lighting) $500.00
(1) D-TEK FuZion Universal CPU Waterblock - 1/2". $61.99
(1) D-TEK FuZion nozzle accelerator kit. $6.99
(1) UV reactive Pentosin G11 Coolant Additive (Blue) 4oz. $4.50
(1) Petra's Tech "PT Nuke" Concentrated Biocide 10mL. $2.50
(10') Tygon 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) R-3603 Laboratory-Grade tubing. $32.50
(10') Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PCV tubing 3/8" ID (5/8" OD). $6.50
(8) Hose Clamps. $3.00

Lighting: (All lights are controlled by the two toggle switches on the fan controller)
(2) 12in Dual Blue Cold Cathode Kit. (Sunbeam) $11.98
(1) Cold Cathode Sound Activation Module. (Sunbeam) $3.99
(3) 5' UV blue EL Wire kits. $17.97
(1) 5 UV Lazer LED kit MDLED5UV. $4.99

Cables: (Found long cables at SVC.com)
(4) 36" UV Blue 36" SATA II Cable w/ Locking Latch. $20.00

MISC Parts:
(1) Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM. $5.99
(1) Arctic Silver CMQ-22G The high-density, ceramic-based thermal compound - Retail. $9.99
(1) Arctic Silver Adhesive. $7.99
(1) Arctic Silver ACN-60ML (2-PC-SET) Thermal material Remover & Surface Purifier - OEM. $5.99
(1) Premium Heatsink Lapping Kit. $11.99
(2) MCMaster-Carr Polypropylene quick-disconnects. $51.98
(1) UV Blue slot protector. $3.00
(1) Spider Stencil. $24.99
(1) Can ClearNeon Aerosol UV Reactive Paint - Blue. $14.99

At least $3,614.07 so far! This PC stuff get's expensive!!
I know I am missing some shipping, and extra parts I ordered, that I won't end up using...
Good for spares I guess.
Probably really in closer to 4 G's now?

Note: Apon Seth's recommendation I opted to switch over from UV blue lighting in the WaterKegIII Xtreme, to Blue CCFL's due to them being a bit brighter!
Thanks Seth...

Thank God I didn't get my heart set on a DDR3 System yet! Ouch...
Not if i'm wanting to play with 4GB of ram.

I still have 1 grand left for a hot new GPU if they ever get released!!

I did get my 4th drive installed:
Installed some UV blue slot protectors.







I can see I need to dust my video fans intake area..
The wife and I went after cleaning the basement and I guess some dust flew up in the air during the process.
I did have the front cover in at the time, so that dust just wofted in the exposed vent area.
I guess that is a good sign the the video card fan should have an ample air supply to draw from?

[Talonman]

Well, my "Official Water Cooling Thread of the Stock Maximus SE ROG NB Club: thread is running it's course, and served it's purpose well for me.
I was seeking the truth, and this is what came out of it.

Some lessons I think we have learned about the Maximus SE:

1) If you are running the stock ROG cooling, and decide to remount it using a higher quality TIM, you may see as much as a 10°C drop in NB temp under max load.

2) If you decide to go with an aftermarket water block, you can possibly see another additional 10°C drop in your NB temp under max load.

3) Raju found that loaded NB temps over 47°C have been prone to failures, during longer Prime torture test runs. This is not an exact number, nor should it be considered as such. It is simply ment to help give you a better idea, of what NB temp you might wan't to avoid, for the best system stability. I don't believe it is a hard line drawn in the sand that can't be crossed, but rather use it as a guide myself, and was grateful for the information posted in his findings.
Raju's and Bingo13's Maximus SE review: http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=3149


Members reported loaded NB temp's in the 'Aftermarket Block Club':
ABC Member ---- NB volts -- NB Loaded ------------------- CPU ------------- Ambient ---- NB Block
Creek Tha Gray --- 1.61v ------ 20°C -- OCCT at 30min - Q6700 GO @ 3.9GHz ---- 24.6°C ---- EK S-MAX (Vapor Phase Change user)
Talonman --------- 1.60v ------ 22°C -- 4HR Prime95 --- Q6600 GO @ 3.8GHz ---- 12.7°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal
Nikhsub1 ---------- 1.52v ------ 25°C ---------------------- Q6600 @ 3.7GHz --------------- MCW30
Talonman --------- 1.55v ------ 26°C -- 1HR Prime95 --- Q6600 GO @ 3.8GHz ---- 16.6°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal
neo rtr ------------ 1.70v ------ 28°C ------------------ QX6700 @ 3.6GHz ------ 19.0°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
WFO -------------- 1.46v ------ 30°C -- Folding 48Hrs -- Q6600 GO @ 3.7GHz ---- 21.1°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal
neo rtr ------------ 1.70v ------ 33°C ------------------ QX6700 @ 3.6GHz ------ 24.0°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
Durkadurka -------- 1.52v ------ 34°C -- 2HR Prime95 --- QX9650 @ 3.8GHz ------ 24.0°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal
Clunk ------------- 1.74v ------ 35°C -- Prime over night -- Q6600 @ 3.6GHz ----------------- DangerDen Maze4


Members reported loaded NB temp's using the stock 'Republic of Gamers' cooling:
ROG Member ---- NB volts -- NB Loaded ----------------------------- CPU
bill d ------------- 1.30v ------ 34°C ------------------------------ Q6600 @ 2.4GHz
TheSamuri -------- 1.54v ------ 34°C -------------------------- Q6600 GO @ 3.9GHz (Reseated W/MX-2, NB was 48°C)
Renegade5399 ---- 1.65v ------ 34°C --------------------------- E6850 GO @ 4GHz
ragge86 ---------- 1.65v ------ 36°C ------------------------------ Q6600 @ 3.8GHz
.OCX ------------- 1.57v ------ 38°C ---Orthos Beta for 10 hours --- E6750 @ 3.4GHz
initialised --------- 1.52v ------ 39°C --- After 10mins of SP2004 ---- E4500 @ 3.2GHz
NysoO ------------ 1.60v ------ 39°C -------------------------- Q6600 GO @ 3.6GHz
raju -------------- 1.65v ------ 39°C --- Prime95 Torture Temp ---- Q6600 @ 3.6GHz (Reseated W/new TIM, NB was 49°C)
DerekFSE --------- 1.50v ------ 40°C -------- Running Orthos ------ E6400 @ 3.6GHz
BulldogPO -------- 1.65v ------ 40°C - 24/7 QMC crunching clocks -- Q6600 @ 3.8GHz
giorgos th. ------- 1.47v ------ 41°C ------------------------------ Q6600 @ 3.60GHz
neo rtr ----------- 1.70v ------ 42°C ----------------------------- QX6700 @ 3.6GHz
Aldy402 ---------- 1.63v ------ 43°C -------------------------- Q6600 GO @ 3.825GHz (NB was 62°C-65°C, loaded on air)
weescott --------- 1.74v ------ 43°C ----------------------------- Q9550 @ 3.8GHz
j0nnyr0773n ------ 1.54v ------ 44°C -------------------------- Q6600 GO @ 3.6GHz
Clump ------------ 1.62v ------ 46°C ---- After 1HR of Prime 95 ---- Q6600 @ 3.6GHz

If you go through the removal of the stock ROG cooling, and officially join the Aftermarket Block Club, or ABC as we like to call it , it is my firm belief that you will be enjoying lower temps.

__________________________________________________ _____________________________________

Then there was this post I found quite disturbing...

My expierience with previous boards, is that on high OC you need to active cool your motherboard NB and mosfets
The X38 can't be an exception. The vital settings are:
- C2D CPUs will never, even past 4GHz stress your mb like a quad will do
- CPU clock and vcore: on a quadcore overclocked above 50% (that is 3.6GHz and above) will make your mosfets burn. They will in all cases be lower performers (heat and electric stability are just opposed)
- Memory speed/timings, NB strap and NB voltage, CPU clock: these will burn your NB. Now, we're talking about the most sensitive part in an overclocked PC: RAM management

So, with all this in mind, the NB and mosfets should be the coolest to be stable. If 47°C limit meets Prime errors, I will say a 5-10°C lower temperature is needed for the long run (after all, it is just a chip like a CPU, so what applies to CPUs will apply to any chipset)
Personally, when I receive a motherboard, I remove its stock cooling and at least reapply thermal compound before first run. After all, we all do this for our CPUs and debate what is the best compound (AS5, MX-1, MX-2...). SO we should do it for our chips. Any gain in temperature will lead to better OC performance like with a CPU

Just an advice for future owners of this board: before mounting it, just tune your heatsinks, especially if you plan to get>50% OC from a quadcore

Also, like with CPUs, there are poor and bad overclockers in the motherboard department, as we OC the X38, some of them will be better than others (not all quads reach 4GHz stable OC, so not all X38 would be able to stabilize it)

If NB temps over 47°C are prone to failures, and we really would like 5 to 10°C lower, I no longer believed the stock cooling was up for the job.
Especially because I will be OC'ing a Quad.
Dwelling on these thoughts, I decided to replace my stock Maximus ROG cooling, and go for the dreaded dis-mount using the hair dryer method. Gasp!

EK has just made two NB block's for the Maximus SE. One is clear, and one has the EK black top.
I went for the standard black top model, so it would match my D-TEK FuZion CPU block.

I cleared the deck to make room for my EK NB water block, and CPU Back plate in route...
(1) EK-NB S-MAX Acetal
- Fittings 1/2" ID
http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/produc...19887e5828b204

It is going to beat the snot out of the stock block!!
The Picture I find myself staring at in wonder and awe...
http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/popup_...19887e5828b204
I will be using the Arctic Silver Premium Thermal Paste on mine, just as I do on the CPU and the D-tek.

It took a good 10 minutes with the hair dryer, before the stock goop let me gently wiggle the ROG cooling free.
Tip- Don't pull up on the block. Wiggle it side to side until the entire thing slides off one way or the other.
Use Acetone and a paper town to get most of the stock goop off.
My removal went well, and I believe no dammage was done.






I want to take that big chunk of Enzotech Forged Copper sink and just glue it to my SB using Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive, and not worry about the pins at all.
They dont line up correctly, and might grind them off?

Would this be OK to do if I don't plan on removing it again?
Will it hold? The bottom of the sink is pritty smooth....

The Microcool Chipsink Southbridge fits just right, and uses thermal tape to connect to the SB.
This skink is not copper like the Enzotech, and stands higher in the air. It might hit a large card?
Like I said, I would rather use the Enzotech and glue it on 'for keeps' if the AS Thermal Adhesive does a decent job of transferring heat, and stayes strong when heatted up?
The Enzotech Copper sink is much heaveyer than the Microcool.

I don't think out SB gets that hot anyway....

Will it work?

By the way, it's confirmed my Thermalright's don't fit.
Too large for the Maximus SE.

[cloned]

dang, just dang...

if i were in your position with so much money to spend i would get 2 3870s to crossfire if ATI doesn't release something better in a month

[bobson]

wow, thats a nice build so far thumbs up man!!

[Talonman]

Thanks!

Well I went for attaching my favorite sink for the job (Enzotech Forged Copper CNB-S1L), using Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive.

The AS Home page has this:
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_s...l_adhesive.htm

Thermal Adhesive Temperature range:
- 40C to >150C (Bond strength is weakened at temperatures below 0C due to crystallization.)

I think my SB temp should stay in that range.

I like the Caution: Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive is a permanent adhesive.
Components you attach with Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive will stay attached forever.

Staying attached forever is exactly what I'm looking for...
It's my gift to the Maximus for keeps.

Note: The Enzotech Forged Copper CNB-S1L sink is sold as a NB cooling sink.
I will only be giving it a SB workload assignment, so it should do a fine job for me!

I just feel like with the sink being stuck right to the chip, should help me realize some low SB temps.
I know my 'chip to sink' contact is now much better than stock, and I'm betting the AS Thermal Adhesive will do a better job for me too.
I let it set for about 12 hours, with the weight on the chip while the adhesive dried.

[Talonman]

Finished!!

Looks decent, and locked into this spot forever.


I am thinking about installing this 40mm 5cfm rated fan:


I don't even know if the SB even needs a fan... What do you think?

[bobson]

you can always use a passive cooling kit for the SB. that way you will save yourself some noise

[Buckeye]

First time poster here

I have been watching you build this, very, very nice so far. After seening that case I purchased one for myself, I love it.

Any idea when the WaterKeg will come, I would love to see pic's of that next to your rig. I am thinking of getting one myself after the first of the year for my new machine and just want to see how big one of those really are next to a case.

Thumbs Up Talon !

[Talonman]

Thanks man!! Ohio Rules!!

Mine will be the next WaterKegIII Xtreme made on planet earth!!... I really am next.
I have confromation from the President of the company.

From Thermalright website, I highlighted where it applies to the Maximus.



If ordering online, if it does not mention that the HR-09 U/S is "Type 2" then the component is a "Type 1".

Sites that I know of that carry the HR-09 U/S Type 2:

Sidewinder.com

SVC.com

I had to work to get my Thermarght's installed, but I think I did OK?
I ordered the wrong type for the Maximus (Type-1).
They look like they do such a good job of cooling, I didn't want to just give up on them.
Using Ace'es info on his mod's posted in the Abit IP35-Pro thread, I baught Round Head Machine bolts #4-40 X 3/4", some 1/2", and one, full 1"er for the 'Power Bridge Fan Mount' too.
They didn't have his recommended Galvanized washers with the rubber gromet fused to the washer.
I baught metal washers, and rubber washers too. I have a rubber washer on the back of each bolt, to protect the motherboard, and give the mount a little spring to it.
I wouldn't want to overtighten the mounts, and crack the mobo. The rubber washers help me insure I don't overtighten the nuts.
I also opted for brass.

Here is my wrong sized Thermarght's....


My custom drilling....
I removed the stock clips and pins. For me, they were part of my problem on getting them mounted.
I guess I Hard Mounted the sinks, to the Maximus?


Mounted:

I made small squares of aluminum foil to put in the space the washer has to make contact with, on the top side of the sink.
I wanted to give the washer a better surface to lay flush againt, using the washers entire surface. I didn't want the washer just making contact on one of it's sides, and the other hanging in space.
You can see the foil in there...


I also made me a power SB cooler. 'PowerBridge Cooling now Online!'
It is hovering about 1/16th of an inch above the sink, but not touching it.


Due to the info posted in the main Maximus SE thread, I will be running my memory on the White slots. I also had it confirmed that Vista Ultimate should still install fine with my 4GB plugged in.
I was thinking I had to put 1 module in, install a hot fix, and then install my second memory module.
I now believe that to be incorrect.

Now my Silenx Ixtrema Pro Series 40mm 14dBA 5CFM $17.00 fan, will be put to good use.

By Talonman

[eternaljammer]

Wow, truely incredible. Great work. I wish I was doing it.

[Ruroni]

I want to see the Waterkeg hooked up to this. And the full range of idle/load temps on everything.

[Baron]

Looks great Talonman.

Im hopefully going to be using the same motherboard as you.

[Buckeye]

Thanks man!! Ohio Rules!!

Mine will be the next WaterKegIII Xtreme made on planet earth!!... I really am next.
I have confromation from the President of the company.

HAHA Go Browns !

I can't wait to see the WaterKeg ! I currently have the same motherboard and looking at future upgrades for a new machine. I like what you have done with the MB and I am keeping notes

If I can stand it I would like to wait till feb to see what new cards Nvidia comes out with, at least I think they will be coming out around Feb ? Plus I want to see what these guys here are doing with the new Intel Proc's and if a Vaporchill can stand up to the new Quads. I am going all out on my next rig so looking closely and what the Guru's here are doing with thier equipment

Side Note: A very good friend of mine has recorded Cleveland Brown's games going back to the early 80's, from Beta tapes to VHS etc. I have encoded and burnt well over 200 games on DVD's. hehe he's a nut

[GunterFalstaff]

wow, i wish i had that much money... im jealous . im personally upgrading to 2 3870s in crossfire, ive heard alot of good things about them . the setup looks amazing organized and for lack of better words... SEXY =) good job!