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Thread: !!! Updating the Watercooling Guide !!! Everyone Please Take a Look

  1. #51
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    basically put another Sticky Thread called "Read First the 10/20/30 Basic Condensed FAQs to Water Cooling" then some links pointing to "The Long Read Complete Water Cooling Guide" and other pointing to "The Updated Complete Water Cooling Stores List"

    might i also suggest pruning out / weeding out / condensing your guides like your single post watercooling stores guide, because most noobs will likely read only the first few pages of a thread or only the last few pages thinking this is where the current updates are...

    (as you can't really answer most questions by a single post is the reason that noobs create new threads)

    PS there's just too much parts that are usefull from McmasterCarr that too list the most usefull stuff would be enough...
    also mounting screws preference depends on the end user, example is: i used hand tap #6-32 then thumbscrews #6-32 on my radiator...
    Last edited by septim; 10-12-2006 at 08:44 PM.

  2. #52
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    I understand the case issue. It *is* mostly up to taste, which one will be best for the particular user. Now I haven't yet done a loop, but I imagine the full towers are pretty straitforward. I see post pretty frequently where noobs like me are asking for case recommendations.
    If you wanted to recommend a couple of inexpensive mid-towers, which will work with w/c with a minimum of case modding. Also, please explain what is important to look for in a case.

    As far as orgonization, you might want to write it up in HTML and see if xtremesystems.org will host it on their site. Then you can link to it in the forums?

  3. #53
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    All cases work with a "minimum" of case modding. At the end of the day, the most anyone should need to do in terms of modding is cut anywhere from 1 to 3 blowholes for the radiator n' that's it... anything beyond that is purely user preference. Common sense can also be applied - a case with 120mm fanports as standard will allow easy installation of any 1x120 rad based system. A case with 2x 120 fan ports will generally allow easy installation of any 2x120 rad based system (other than PA120.2 and PA120.3 - we like to force folks to mod or part with oodles of cash for a supporting MountainMods case!)

    Every case is as easy as every other in the most basic sense - nearly ALL cases out there allow a single or double radiator to be mounted in the top providing you're willing to cut 2x simple blowholes... of which there are LOADS of guides around the net covering how. It's often MUCH cheaper simply to go out and buy a 110mm holesaw and modify your current case than fork out £50+ on a new case specifically for it. The same holesaw can be utilised for those who choose to mount in the base of the case or the front of the case. Hole-cutting templates for the individual radiators are generally available from both the manufacturer as well as it's resellers.

    Anyone not prepared to mod can simply invest in the Swiftech Radbox and mount any size radiator externally off one of the cases rear blowholes.

    There is nothing important to look for in a case for wc-ing other than the absence of plastic panelling (as this makes cutting blowholes more complex). Everything else is again down to user taste and preference.

    There's only so much handholding that should be done... if folks need talking thru every single step, then they either haven't done enough research or simply don't have the marbles to be watercooling in the first place.

    Don't forget - watercooling is a PC Technology that is over 10 years old. Only the individual pieces of hardware have changed. The mounting methodologies and means of fitting within a case haven't changed from Day 1.

  4. #54
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    Ok. Great guide btw as I rad it too late b4 I bought my kit!

    However, I believe I read it here somewhere, doesn't copper automatically help in the loop? Therefore no need to add anything but distilled h20... If I remember reading correctly.

    On the rad and pumps I had a few things that kinda confused me at first. The recommendations are, seems, to be for 2 or more fans... what about people who have room for only 1 rad? Which would be best or bang for buck?

    What about pump dba? That would be nice. How loud they are that way we can compare though you do mention that some are quieter than others.

    The Swifty 6000 cpu waterblock is also almost impossible to find.

    Thanks as I believe it's the best guide I've read in WC. Nothing even comes close.

    I also agree with Marci on the case issue...
    Last edited by FLMJIGGY; 10-13-2006 at 08:05 AM.

  5. #55
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    @Marci: Great, that little rant (more or less) should go into the guide

  6. #56
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    HRRRRMMM....

    Marci: You mind if I jack your post and add a case section to the guide? Obviously I would modify it a bit to fit more with the context of the guide, but as a whole its exactly what we need.

    oshox: FUGGER (Charles) would have no problem hosting it (I already have several articles on the front page) but I no jack sheit of HTML (I'm a hardware guy not a web guy). BUT if someone wants to write it up in HTML, more power to them.

    FLMJIGGY: I need to remove the 6000 and 6002 as they ARE impossible to find. I havnt seen one anywhere for a long time. Time to do some more editing.

    Well guys for the weekend I will be MIA.. but keep up with the suggestions and I will be back sunday night.

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
    Well guys for the weekend I will be MIA.. but keep up with the suggestions and I will be back sunday night.
    Hi Max, hope you have a good weekend...

    here are possibly 3 more questions for the begginers FAQ:

    - Is it better to use the fans in pull or push mode? or both?

    - In general how big is the risk of this thing leaking and killing my hardware?

    - How often does it need maintenance? Do I just add more fluid?

    cheers
    hoax

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  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoax
    Hi Max, hope you have a good weekend...

    here are possibly 3 more questions for the begginers FAQ:

    - Is it better to use the fans in pull or push mode? or both?

    - In general how big is the risk of this thing leaking and killing my hardware?

    - How often does it need maintenance? Do I just add more fluid?

    cheers
    hoax
    Good questions that a noob might ask.

    For the 2nd question, the answer is 99% leak-free if you properly leak test.

    3rd- Needs maintenance every 6th mths to clean blocks (optional if you don't have blocks that clog) and top off t-line when needed.
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    I believe that GWB, who may NOT be the best overclocking CPU in the tray...
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    oh c'mon, maxxx, kick that cat of that monitor and have it poop for you

  9. #59
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    for the first question it would depend on your own case-rad-fan orientation, front top back bottom, different mounting, different styles...

    but still undervolting a fan plus shroud with a PA radiator pull seems to be the most effective...

    there are a lot of "he said this" "he said that" that most noobs would likely be more confused with our discussion...

    i would suggest that Maxxx to give the noob the choice on which would be easier to do for his own case rad fan orientation...

  10. #60
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    another question for the FAQ:
    What can I use to prevent tube kinks?
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  11. #61
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    How about....Which will give me better performance, having the pump's discharge going directly to the CPU water block inlet for maximum pressure on an impingement block or having the pump's discharge going to the rad first and then the CPU block for lowest interring water temperature?
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    Quote Originally Posted by SiGfever
    How about....Which will give me better performance, having the pump's discharge going directly to the CPU water block inlet for maximum pressure on an impingement block or having the pump's discharge going to the rad first and then the CPU block for lowest interring water temperature?
    I like this question, was asking the same thing myself couple of moths ago. I think the best is to put the rad after the pump and then put the CPU block, cause if you put the block right after the pump the water won't be that cold, ...but I think only testing can prove this.
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  13. #63
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    great questions marauder16 and SigFever..

    I wonder if anyone has already tried the method marauder16 described...

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  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by marauder16
    I like this question, was asking the same thing myself couple of moths ago. I think the best is to put the rad after the pump and then put the CPU block, cause if you put the block right after the pump the water won't be that cold, ...but I think only testing can prove this.
    Quote Originally Posted by SiGfever
    How about....Which will give me better performance, having the pump's discharge going directly to the CPU water block inlet for maximum pressure on an impingement block or having the pump's discharge going to the rad first and then the CPU block for lowest interring water temperature?

    both of you go read the guides and your question will be answered. And if you tell me that you have already done so you are flat out lying or didnt read the whole thing. (intro to watercooling, particularly the pumps and waterblock section as well as the pumps guide)

  15. #65
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    omg... sigfever i expected better of you
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    flowrate is for losers!
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  16. #66
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    pump - thermochill PA rad - cpu = best water temp before cpu...

    besides running with a PA between pump and first block won't really affect flow that much, but i do think temp wise it would be less than a degree...

  17. #67
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    Hey max, do you have any room in one of your guides to my waterblock threading and fittings... uh guide?

    i think someone would like it to be stickied but we cant have to many stickies either so ill think it fits better in one of yours. maybe a link or something cus then i can continue to update it with ease!
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  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
    both of you go read the guides and your question will be answered. And if you tell me that you have already done so you are flat out lying or didnt read the whole thing. (intro to watercooling, particularly the pumps and waterblock section as well as the pumps guide)
    The question was NOT for me it was for the updated guide. I thought that we were supposed to give ideas for questions? Sorry.
    Last edited by SiGfever; 10-15-2006 at 02:25 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SiGfever
    The question was NOT for me it was for the updated guide. I thought that we were supposed to give ideas for questions? Sorry.
    Sorry about that. I misread what you wrote. But that would indeed be a good thing to put in the FAQ. People have (as did I) a misguided notion that the absolute pressure of the water at the waterblock makes a noticeable difference in cooling performance.

    Quote Originally Posted by eXa
    Hey max, do you have any room in one of your guides to my waterblock threading and fittings... uh guide?

    i think someone would like it to be stickied but we cant have to many stickies either so ill think it fits better in one of yours. maybe a link or something cus then i can continue to update it with ease!

    can you link me?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
    can you link me?
    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=119190


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  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
    both of you go read the guides and your question will be answered. And if you tell me that you have already done so you are flat out lying or didn't read the whole thing. (intro to watercooling, particularly the pumps and waterblock section as well as the pumps guide)
    Same as Sigfever, I wasn't asking questions, but giving ideas for the FAQ, of course I know what to use to prevent kinks..., though maybe I didn't explain too well why it is better to put the rad before the block cause I don't remember every word from your guide.
    was asking the same thing myself couple of moths ago
    I think this also proves that I know the answer...
    and a quote from your guide:
    So here is a general rule to follow. Pump>Radiator>CPU>...
    Last edited by marauder16; 10-16-2006 at 03:20 AM.
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  22. #72
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    [QUOTE=MaxxxRacer]
    "Sorry about that. I misread what you wrote. But that would indeed be a good thing to put in the FAQ. People have (as did I) a misguided notion that the absolute pressure of the water at the waterblock makes a noticeable difference in cooling performance."


    No problem mate.

    What do you think about the idea of making your fact "sticky" non-reply able? Get all of your questions and answers together so they don't become so overwhelming trying to read twenty-eight pages of replies trying to find an answer.

    Then if someone has a particular question they can either submit it as an addendum to the "sticky" or post their question as a new thread. Just a thought.

    By the way, I see that you have already started editing the "stickies". I found the information to be even more helpful and concise.
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  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by creidiki
    omg... sigfever i expected better of you
    Man that hurts!
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    marauder16: I appologize to you as well.

    The reason that I snapped at both of you was firstly becasuse i misread your posts and secondly because that particular toppic is one that I make sure to make abundantly clear in the guides so that the confusion and endless threads over that same topic will stop (and they have).

    SiGfever: making the guide non-replyabe is an excelent idea. It has worked well for the stores guide and it should do the same for the FAQ.

    eXA: I will most certainly link that thread in the guide. Not sure where, but I will fit it in there.

    BTW, I have been keeping the FAQ listed in hoax's post updated with all the new questions and will transfer it over to a sticky later today.
    Last edited by MaxxxRacer; 10-16-2006 at 02:07 PM.

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