the best hands down

[daboogas94e]

Im reading all this stuff about water cooling and stuff and everything is starting to run together. so is there a definite top in every category. because i want to build the best possible water cooling system.

i know that 1/2" tubing is best.
12V pump is needed.
Danger Den is top notch.........or is there better?

[Levish]

the best is usually followed by a budget

[majestik]

Well then, read Guide To Current WaterCooling Components and get ready to shell out $600 or more!

[JoeBar]

Search is your friend. @ first Read the Stickies!

[ghent915]

I agree that reading the stickies would be helpful.

Also, define best. Best as in bang-for-the buck, top performance, spiffy looks, ect?

Give us that, and we can give you some answers. Also, look at the rigs of what the top posters are using. That can give a good indication of a setup that works well.

-Ghent

[phelan1777]

The "BEST" water block for CPU is the Cathar Storm G5 with silver plate.

However it is rare, and goes for 150+ as much as over 200$.
Second and more common is the Cathar Storm G4 with copper plate.
Tied for second is the Swiftech Storm (originally designed by Cathar)

[SiGfever]

This isn't a bad setup.

http://www.petrastechshop.com/pecogpuex.html

Better:

Swiftech Storm rev2 or AquaXtreme MP-05 SP LE CPU Waterblock
EK Waterblock for GPU or MP-1 GPU Water Block
(2) Alphacool Laing DDC-Pump 12V Ultra pump in series w/top inlet used.
Thermochill PA120.3 rad w/AquaXtreme G3/8 BSPP threaded HiFlow fitting for 1/2"ID tubing
Thermochill shroad
(6) Yate Loon fans in a push/pull configuration
7/16" Tygon R-3603 tubing
Delrin Fill-port or Swiftech MCRES-MICRO™ Reservoir
Sunbeam Rheobus fan controller or better yet "T-balancer BigNG" for auto fan control

[ReD.SkY]

best 12v pump is the DDC+ with alphacool top, or for some l33t pwnage, 2 of these pumps in series.

i used to have a G5, and yes, they ARE the best known to man. i have a G4 now, and they arent too far off.

for tubing 1/2ID, 3/4OD Tygon tubing

radiator, PA120.3

[WeStSiDePLaYa]

when it comes to DIY the difference in perfomance between the high end and the smart low end is not huge.

i say smart as some cheap watercooling is junk, but other stuff is great, such as used RBX's/TDX's etc.

id recomend just buying what you can afford while getting at least a double rad and one of the better pumps (50z, D5, DDC).

pretty much quickly some key things:

stick to 1/2" ID tubing
grab at least a double rad
stick with t-lines(res often crack)
get a decent pump (50z, D5, DDC).


Also, just some things for you, you WONT want a storm, or any other cathar block, if you will be cooling those sli'd cards of yours. you would probably be better off getting a TDX with the nozzle kit if you plan to watercool your cards as well, as then you can raise or lower the TDX's restriction to see what gives best cpu cooling, while maintaining good gpu cooling. and if you wanna cool your gpu, your gonna want a triple rad.

[ReD.SkY]

a DDC+ with top has enough power for the storm and maybe 3 gpu blocks :\

[septim]

more budget is always good...

[ReD.SkY]

anyway, yes, with a budget, i can cram in the bet you can get for your money.

TOTL setup will only run like $600

[WeStSiDePLaYa]

a DDC+ with top has enough power for the storm and maybe 3 gpu blocks :\

and so does a mcp300.

but at what flow rates? one storm kills flowrates. id much rather have slightly hotter cpu, with a decently cooler gpu. especially for games where extra on the core will be more benefit than extra 50-100mhz on the cpu.

[daboogas94e]

really price doesnt matter to me as i will be using this for a LONG TIME.........as in making last for years......i do have SLi so that could be an issue with GPU blocks and being its an MSI board.
hmmmmm CPU blocks i have read that Swift tech is top of the line.

i would like to use Petra's shop if possible. but willing to go elsewhere for the best.

[Torin]

Here's what I'd recommend for the top of the line, easily acquired setup.

CPU: Swiftech Storm Rev. 2, 1/2" OD
GPU: 2x Swiftech MCW60 with MC14 Ramsinks, 1/2" OD
Pump: Laing DDC+ 12V Ultra (18W) with Alphacool/Radiical top, 1/2" OD
Rad: Thermochill PA 120.3 with 3 120mm Yate-Loon fans, 1/2" OD
Tubing: 7/16" ID Masterkleer tubing

Petra's Delrin Fillport, T-line and metal worm-drive clamps.

You can get most of this at Petra's, some of it (like the Thermochill rad and pump) you'll have to find elsewhere.

[daboogas94e]

you have AIM Torin?

[Torin]

Nope. Firewall blocks IM traffic.

You can PM me or just reply to this thread.

[daboogas94e]

about the rad you have suggested......what would be the best location for it? the setup you have suggested doesnt use a resevoir (spelling?)

[Marci]

There is no "best" location for it... wherever you can fit it will suffice. If being strictly scientifically precise, on the base of the case SHOULD prove the best as the radiator won't absorb any rising ambient heat from other components...

Petra's Delrin Fillport, T-line and metal worm-drive clamps.

^^^ Replaces reservoir.

[daboogas94e]

im looking for a pic of the rad on google......nothing comes up....maybe im doing something wrong

[Torin]

Depends on the case you're putting it in. It's a big rad, so you have to find room for it. What case do you have/plan on using?

And no, I don't suggest using a reservoir. Personally, I think a T-line setup is cleaner, easier to route tubing for and offers a very minimal performance increase due to increased flow. You can use a reservoir though, it is mainly a matter of personal taste. Some people like the ease of bleeding a system, though I personally could care less if it takes me 2 days instead of 2 hours, because once it is done, it's done. Some people like the look of a little tank of water in their case, I don't.

[Torin]

http://www.jab-tech.com/Thermochill-...3-pr-3264.html

This is the PA 120.3, it's a hunker.

[daboogas94e]

excuse for a few mins while i pick my jaw off the floor......that this is BIG......and its out of stock at jab-tech.....go figure...

the case is another issue because i need to get a new Aluminum case because my wife bought a piss poor case thats not aluminum and her reasoning for it....... "it looks cool"

[daboogas94e]

Some people like the look of a little tank of water in their case, I don't.

i dont think i want a tank of water in my case.......i agree t-line would be better. no chance of a leak with t-line....that would be a bad thing

[Torin]

i dont think i want a tank of water in my case.......i agree t-line would be better. no chance of a leak with t-line....that would be a bad thing

Well, any well built loop, res or no res will be leak free. A t-line probably has more chances of leaking than a res would, being that it has 3 connections to tubing instead of 2. But like I said, do it right and it'll be no problem regardless of which option you go with.

As for the case, you want something pretty big. If you want aluminum, I'd go with a Lian-Li case, something like a 2000B or PC-75B. But, you will have to get a Dremel and cut it up in order to mount the rad. Usually, with Lian-Li cases, you mount the rad at the top with the barbs facing down. To do so, you'll need to cut 3 openings (or 1 big opening) at the top of the case for the fans to pull air through.

If you get a different case, like a CM Stacker, you can easily mount the rad on the bottom of the case, and pull air through the built-in mesh vent. Like Marci said, this will be better for cooling, as you are pulling cold air from underneath the case through the rad, rather than hot air that has passed over other components.

Regardless, any W/C case is going to be heavy, whether or not you use an aluminum case. Check out the watercooled case thread (sticky) at the top of the forum to see how people are doing it.