Assembly Guide - Chilly1 Evaporator.

As of Jan 6 2005, this is the latest revision of the Chilly1 evaporator. You can buy the parts assembled, or in pieces. You can even buy the parts individualy. Chilly1 will make it happen no matter which way you choose to make your purchase.
There is no discussion of prices allowed on the forums, so if you want pricing , contact Chilly1 via personel message (PM).

These are the parts I received from Chilly. I am not showing a 10ft coil of 1/8" copper that I received in the first pic. You will see the coil in latter pictures.

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...Evap%20Kit.jpg

The first thing I did was drill a 1/8" hole down through the spirals right up against the side of the inside core. Drill the hole all the way to the bottom surface. Do not drill all the way through the block. :stick: The 1/8" copper tube will go through these holes down to the bottom of the block and feed refrigerant from the CPEV (if that is what you choose to use) to the bottom of the block where it will spray out into the inside of the block.

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...eed%20line.jpg

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...0installed.jpg

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...led%20rear.jpg

The refrigerant will enter the bottom of the block and evaporate into a liquid-gas mist, traveling up through the spirals absorbing heat along the way. When it reaches the top of the spiral, it will need ahole to exit so it can enter the suction line. I drilled a 1/4" hole at the very top of the block, all the way through the center. This way the refrigerant can enter from both sides of the block, and your passage will be more equal to the size of the suction line.

The idea to drill the hole all the way through the center belongs to pythagoras. Very good idea. Thanks M8 :toast:

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...let%20hole.jpg

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...et%20hole1.jpg

http://www.blairwing.com/images/Alvin/16.jpg

http://www.blairwing.com/images/Alvin/15.jpg

Now you will need a hole in the top of the block for the suction line to go into. Chilly1 provided me with a very nice 36" flex line for my suction line. Drill the 3/8" hole for the suction line just deep enough to reach the bottom of the 1/4" hole you drilled for the gas outlet hole.

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...hole%20top.jpg

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...ion%20hole.jpg

When you braze the 3/8" suction line into the block, make sure you don't push it down too far and block the 1/4" hole.

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...ne%20depth.jpg

You should have something like this when you are finished.

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...0installed.jpg

Before you put the round sleeve on the block, get your copper tube at the correct depth in the block and mark the tube at the top outside of the block. This way when put the sleeve on and get ready to braze , you will know that the tubes have not slidden down into the holes.

Now it is time to braze it all together.

I use a Coleman camping stove to help heat the block. This helps tremendously. I can even use my small torch and have good results. For those of you using propane torches, a camp stove will make it soo much easier for you. They are under $20.

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...d%20burner.jpg

Light your burner and torch and let's get to brazing.

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...g%20block2.jpg

Heat the block slowly from all side until it gets red hot. Hopefully you can get it that hot because the brazing alloy will flow much easier.

I got the top nice and hot and brazed the 3/8" and 1/4" copper tubes. Then I ran a fine bead around the top of the block where the sleeve and the block meet.

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...lock%20top.jpg

After I finished the top, I moved down and brazed the gap at the bottom of the block and sleeve.

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...k%20bottom.jpg

After you are finished brazing you will need to pressure test your work. There is no need going any further untill you are sure it doesn't have any leaks or you will be wasting your time if you do have a leak. I took a piece of 3/8" copper and swagged one end of it. On the other end I brazed a shrader valve. You can use your clamping part of your flaring tool and a 3/8" swagging tool to do the job. This will save you money on not having to buy a coupling to braze the two pieces of copper together. Plus you will have one less joint.

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...ing%20tool.jpg

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...d%20joined.jpg

Here is the joint brazed together.

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...20fitting..jpg

Here is a picture of the assembled block.

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...evaporator.jpg

I have the assembly under 400+ PSI of nitrogen for 24 hours to make sure there are no leaks.

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...re%20test..jpg

The mounting hardware is very easy to use and works on AMD and Intel mobos, as well as ATI ans Nvidia video cards.

This is Intel Socket 478 -

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...evaporator.jpg

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...%20nicely..jpg

By placing a different backplate on the boot, you make it a universal CPU mount. :cool:

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...rsal%20CPU.jpg

If you leave the boot on and use the ATI oval backing plate you will have a hard time getting to the screw heads, but it could be used this way.

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...I%20Booted.jpg

Here is ATI mounting unbooted -

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...20Bootless.jpg

You can use the Nvidia backplate with the boot -

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...a%20Booted.jpg

Or you can use the Nvidia backplate bootless -

http://www.under-the-ice.com/teampus...20Bootless.jpg

If you choose to use the boot, you could fill it with foam, or run you neoprene all the way down around the evaporator.
If you choose to go bootless you can wrap the evaporator with more neoprene. It's just that simple.

I know I didn't show the different mounting methods attached to actual cards and CPUs. You'll just have to use your imaginations :stick: I will add pictures when I mount my evaporator to my Sapphire x800PRO VIVO. I'm going to mount it bootless unless I can be convinced otherwise. :D

As you can see the evaporator fits very flat and snug on the board.

Good luck with your new Chilly1 Evaporator - I love all of mine. :D

When I brazed a pair of chilly1 evaps, I purged with nitrogen, but oxidation was forming in the inside, then I needed to clean the evaps with vinegar (acid) all night, clean and then cooked in an oven for 6 hours to dry.
Do you think that butane or propane will really prevent oxidation?
It was a pain in the ass to loose a day in the process.
I see that base thickness increments. Do you notice any difference in performance?

BTW, Great guide!

Well... I for one wouldnt braze while purging the block with butane or propane, too much of a risk of autoignition at brazing temps!!

Really nice guide, and did I say that this tiny torch is amazing :eek:

Quote:

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The 1/8" copper tube will go through these holes down to the bottom of the block and feed refrigerant from the CPEV

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You will be running a cascade setup isn't it?
Is there any way to run a single stage with a cpev not near the evap?

Very nice guide just as always Ron:)

Ssilencer: I dont see any reason why you wouldn't be able to use the valve at the other end of the suctionline.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hatemi

Very nice guide just as always Ron:)

Ssilencer: I dont see any reason why you wouldn't be able to use the valve at the other end of the suctionline.

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Because nobody use a valve in normal single stages, and the people that use it (berkut, and others) put the valve at 5cm of the evap or near.
And it would be great if we just put a valve and not a cap tube anymore :)
I saw valves at the other end of the suction line, but only in cascades.

On my first stage I use a TVX (ALCO - TI-SW, with 0001 oriface) which I am very happy with.

I don't see any reason for not using a TXV (the alco) on a single stage.

I don't have it on a cascade yet. That will be soon though.

The evaporator is very versitile and can be assembled and used in many situations. This only being one way. ;)

I usually drill a 1/4 inch hole straigh through but the larger single hole should work well great guide BTY>>> Thanks for posting it.,,I will stickie it..

Great looking evap and clear guide Chilly and Ron :toast:
So do you use neoprene to insulate under the housing or polyurethane foam spray?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LardArse

Great looking evap and clear guide Chilly and Ron :toast:
So do you use neoprene to insulate under the housing or polyurethane foam spray?

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What do you suggest?? :D

If you plan on switching from cpu to gpu, I think you would be better off using neoprene. If you planned on putting it on a cpu and leaving it, you could go with the foam.

Like I said earlier, the mounting hardware is very versatle and can be set up several different ways.

I think it would be best if I added more pictures of the different ways the mounting hardware can be used.

BRB :p:

Very nice,but you didn't show us how to assemble the GPU mounting kit.
Regards :D :banana4:

But he did say:

Quote:

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I think it would be best if I added more pictures of the different ways the mounting hardware can be used.

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Coming soon to a forum near you ;)

Regards

John.

Different mounting pictures have been added. ;)

Go back to the first post and scroll to the bottom. :wiggle:

Wow. That's a great design. Good thing its compatible with a lot of mounts.

very nice guide there, and that evap is a piece of art.
what are the dimensions of the new evap ie height and diameter of just the dd copper block??

very nice guide :)

1.5" inches tall adn 1.5" OD the enclosure is 2.7 inches

I added a bead probe by drilling a small hole into the side of the evaporator. This should give me close evaporator temps. :D

http://www.teampuss.com/runmc/Chilly...mp%20probe.jpg

Does anyone smell ethylene???? :ROTF:

AFAIK The first 4mm or so in the bottom of the evap should be solid.. but still thats a little risky.

Great job Runmc. That evap has a 11 MM base solid. No problem you can drill a hole all the way through if you wanted to but that would detract from the capacity a little.

why is the base so thick 11mm? does this help with better load temps or something.
or is that because of machining process?
i love the way you installed the the temp sensor runmc

The thicker base provides the mounting for the block. The total height is 39 MM The added base Diameter coupled with the thicker center and added fins gave this block more capacity and a more stable temperature range at teh base than the first two designs I had.

So far two pieces of 3/4 armaflex wrapped with aramflex tape, is keeping the moisture out.

http://www.teampuss.com/runmc/Chilly...nsulation1.jpg

looks so cozy :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Russell_hq

looks so cozy :)

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LOL :p:

Yeah it kinda looks like a birds nest. :ROTF:

!!!!! Awesome

Are you using any grease in the socket?

Nice guide nice job after you brazed did you need to soak the block to clean it out to fix oxadization?? or did you just mount it?? I know in some cases if you are quickish you can get away with it but??

No need to soak the block if you use nitrogen through the 1/8 line or the capillary while you braze.

Can CO2 be used as a shield gas like nitrogen?

Yeah I was hoping to put one on a sealed unit but not to worry looks like I'll be getting the nitrogen oot :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gkiing

Can CO2 be used as a shield gas like nitrogen?

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I'm interested in this too, since i have a 20oz tank that is used for paintball and a refill is about $6.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hatemi

Are you using any grease in the socket?

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Yes - the socket is full of grease.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gkiing

Can CO2 be used as a shield gas like nitrogen?

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yes

These are pictures of a Chilly1 evap mounted to a GPU.

http://www.teampuss.com/runmc/Chilly...al%20mount.jpg

http://www.teampuss.com/runmc/Chilly...l%20mount1.jpg

:D

love the saran wrap on the video card :lol:

nice, we want frost :) . btw which cascade is on the cpu? (assuming its a cascade)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JSU

nice, we want frost :) . btw which cascade is on the cpu? (assuming its a cascade)

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It's on the blue one and you don't get any frost with the saran wrap. ;)

wow you serious about the seran wrap? is there anything else to it? Guess i have to try ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JSU

wow you serious about the seran wrap? is there anything else to it? Guess i have to try ;)

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do you use dielectrica grease as well on the gpu, or does the seran wrap do the job. i guess once its sealed, could purg it with c02/ nitrogen as well.
hmmmm im gonna try that.

if its a cascade the co2 could possibly condense in the saran wrap if it was cold eneough :p:

Just wondered, anyone tried making dry ice with their cascade? Even a small amount?

I put some tape on the card. The insulation tape. That's all. I did put some dieletric grease on the AGP plug.

http://www.teampuss.com/runmc/Chilly...lex%20tape.jpg

I then wrap the card in Saran wrap and cut a hole for the gpu.

http://www.teampuss.com/runmc/Chilly...ran%20wrap.jpg

I also put a very tiny piece of seastring around the AGP plug where I cut the saran wrap to fit over the plug. This seals the saran wrap to the card. I didn't do anything to the power plug. I left a little slack in the plastic wrap and pluged the power cord in. Same thing for the monitor plug. Just plug them in over the wrap.

http://www.teampuss.com/runmc/Chilly...sealstring.jpg

I put two washers on the back of the card between the card and the nuts. Use plastic washers. I use two so the top washer can slip and turn with the nut and not tear the saran wrap. Then I put a pad of insulation on the back of the card. You could make a total pocket to fit over the card.

http://www.teampuss.com/runmc/Chilly...flex%20pad.jpg

This is what my evaporator looks like.

http://www.teampuss.com/runmc/Chilly...ly1%20evap.jpg

:D

ooooooo that looks relay easy, thanks a bunch! btw do you use anything else besides regualr nuts on the back of the card? any kind of plate?

Great job Ron... YOU got incoming!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JSU

ooooooo that looks relay easy, thanks a bunch! btw do you use anything else besides regualr nuts on the back of the card? any kind of plate?

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JSU - I have a piece of plexiglass that goes over the top of the 3/4" armaflex to hold it on. At one time I had a 3/4" piece of armaflex (foam pad) that covered the entire card. :)

Quote:

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Great job Ron... YOU got incoming!

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Great news Chilly1 - I will now have four cascades with Chilly1 spiral blocks.

My AutoCascade will be my only, lonely project without a Chilly1 spiral. :( :shakes:

I just wanted to say you did a nice job putting together this guide, but how did you manage to compress the impression into the armaflex? A short answer will do.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by runmc

JSU - I have a piece of plexiglass that goes over the top of the 3/4" armaflex to hold it on. At one time I had a 3/4" piece of armaflex (foam pad) that covered the entire card. :)



Great news Chilly1 - I will now have four cascades with Chilly1 spiral blocks.

My AutoCascade will be my only, lonely project without a Chilly1 spiral. :( :shakes:

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Well that is being fixed.

Are we allowed to use chilly1 evaps for the autocascade competition?

dont think so DIY evap

Awesome guide!
what is that black gfx card?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dward3

I just wanted to say you did a nice job putting together this guide, but how did you manage to compress the impression into the armaflex? A short answer will do.

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I cut the armaflex to fit. If that didn't answer your question, please be more specific. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gkiing

Are we allowed to use chilly1 evaps for the autocascade competition?

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I'm not in the competition. :( I'm using 507 and 1150 in my A-C

The CO2 is way too complicated for me. I can't handle that much stress on my brain. :p:

lol.. good call, although it'l be worth it once we get it working.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by reject

Awesome guide!
what is that black gfx card?

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The black card is a Sapphire9600XT - the blue card is a Sapphire X800Pro vivo flashed to X800XT PE

I was using the 9600XT for testing. It's a $100 card. :p:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by runmc

I'm not in the competition. :( I'm using 507 and 1150 in my A-C

The CO2 is way too complicated for me. I can't handle that much stress on my brain. :p:

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hopefully your discharge pressures don't go skyhigh!

I hope you mean an ac compressor for a cascade/autocascade.. putting 1150 into an a/c wouldnt be smart.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gkiing

I hope you mean an ac compressor for a cascade/autocascade.. putting 1150 into an a/c wouldnt be smart.

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I know he means that but even in an autocascade I think pressures will be pretty high.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Unknown_road

I know he means that but even in an autocascade I think pressures will be pretty high.

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I think your probably right about the extreme high pressure. I have mixed a small amount of 1150 with 507 and of course it did raise the pressure. But it worked. I'm wondering how 507 and r14 would do in an autocascade.

I would try, but r14 is $$$$

R14 in a 4 stage autocascade maybe.

chilly or runmc or somebody that know, what is the "ring" that chilly use at the bottom of the blocks to fix enclosures???

Quote:

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Originally Posted by runmc

So far two pieces of 3/4 armaflex wrapped with aramflex tape, is keeping the moisture out.

http://www.teampuss.com/runmc/Chilly...nsulation1.jpg

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What is that, some kind of foam? Looks pretty cool (excuse the pun) and well insulated.
Would that work for my standard Mach2?

That is neoprene with foam tape around the edges.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Malachia

chilly or runmc or somebody that know, what is the "ring" that chilly use at the bottom of the blocks to fix enclosures???

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A piece of soft solder folded around the evap ;)

Or a piece of rubber (is also supplied)

well iam reviving this awsome thread :D guess its bit obsolete though :( . What did you do fo rthe agp socket? it looks as if you didnt do anything....

I thought I read in one of chilly's post, that it was a piece of tin. I could be wrong of course.

I have one, and I think its just aluminum wire?

no it's soft solder :)

That most be why the ring disappeared when I brazed up the block.

Regards

John.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pythagoras

That most be why the ring disappeared when I brazed up the block.

Regards

John.

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:slap:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JSU

well iam reviving this awsome thread :D guess its bit obsolete though :( . What did you do fo rthe agp socket? it looks as if you didnt do anything....

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JSU - Put dielectric grease on the card plug and then for extra precaution silicone around the agp slot and card so no condensation get down into the slot. Overkill - but it could save a card.

Quote:

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pythagoras - That most be why the ring disappeared when I brazed up the block.

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The ring is plumbers soft solder. LOL :slapass: You didn't?? :nono:

I'd lost my last chilly 1 evap in the second try soldering it...
Fisrt try and the guy who soldered it could not braze the flex hose and cut the cap tube inside, I'd lathed the evap, then I used bronze sewer for the exterior, and melted in the try :(

Drill out the cap tube. I about lost one, doing the same thing, re brazing. I was re brazing the bottom and of course the heat rose up to the top, the suction line popped out breaking the cap tube. I just drilled it out, cleaned up the evap and line, re brazed.

Did you guys ever see in a hospital when they use those thin glass tubes to get blood. they just touch them to the drop and :banana: it sucked right up in." capilarry action" the same happens with a cap tube,if any braze or flux gets near the end of tube,your going to do it again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wdrzal

Did you guys ever see in a hospital when they use those thin glass tubes to get blood. they just touch them to the drop and :banana: it sucked right up in." capilarry action" the same happens with a cap tube,if any braze or flux gets near the end of tube,your going to do it again.

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Nice point Walt - You have some good suggestions. :woot: I've learned a couple of things from you since you've been here. :fact:
Thanks

Yeah Walt's a pretty smart guy.

Yea, just crimp the other end shut,it must be open for capilarry action to take place,I flow a inert gas(nitrogen is best) down through cap tube, this prevents capillary action and oxidation.this is best that way it will keep cap tube usually cool enough to keep anything from entering or sticking to it,keeps inside clean too. walt

crimpimg shut is all that is needed

Flowing through a reducing gas like butane or propanes even better than nitrogen. The oxidation that allready was there will be gone and clean copper will remain. A big pro is the fact that practically anyone has propane. This can not be said about nitrogen because the bottles are so expensive.

I braze like this:
http://members.home.nl/epsilon/phase...evapsolder.gif

I've got 3 questions:

1) I see you used dielectric grease in the socket, is it electricly conductive? If so, what prevents a short? If not, how is electric contact made?

2) About the saran / seran wrap. Would the air inside it not cause condensation? Or have you filled it with something else?

3) Can electricity flow through the seran wrap?

Other than that, nice guide! :clap:

DIelectric means it can't conduct electricity. the contact is made because the pins are pushed firmly against the contacts.

the air inside the wrap doesn't contain much moisture so condensation is little.

the wrap isn't condutive though some forms of wrap can become static charged which is pretty letal for the hardware.

dielectric grease in the socket wont conduct electricty. but it does help in transfer of cold to the mother board more. SO none is perfered.
Just have to make sure socket it air tigh.
AMD sockets are easier than the intel ones because of the different pin setup.

electricity only flows through metals really, plastics and greases that contain no metal traces wont conduct.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by runmc

I put some tape on the card. The insulation tape. That's all. I did put some dieletric grease on the AGP plug.

.....

I then wrap the card in Saran wrap and cut a hole for the gpu.

http://www.teampuss.com/runmc/Chilly...ran%20wrap.jpg

I also put a very tiny piece of seastring around the AGP plug where I cut the saran wrap to fit over the plug. This seals the saran wrap to the card. I didn't do anything to the power plug. I left a little slack in the plastic wrap and pluged the power cord in. Same thing for the monitor plug. Just plug them in over the wrap.

.....

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How does that work?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Epsilon

Flowing through a reducing gas like butane or propanes even better than nitrogen. The oxidation that allready was there will be gone and clean copper will remain. A big pro is the fact that practically anyone has propane. This can not be said about nitrogen because the bottles are so expensive.

I braze like this:
http://members.home.nl/epsilon/phase...evapsolder.gif

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Isn't this method a bit dangerous? I haven't started my hands on training yet, but isn't there a possibility that it could flash back and explode?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Metaxas

Isn't this method a bit dangerous? I haven't started my hands on training yet, but isn't there a possibility that it could flash back and explode?

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There is always a chance of an explosion when using propane for purging. Even though it may work great, I don't reccomend it for purging system. NO WAY!!

Technically, there's just as much chance for explosion in a bbq. That's if it's been made right, and assuming you have no leaks in any of your hoses. It's still not the best idea though.

Great instructional post!!!! :toast: :toast:

I have the same torch along with others. Have you tried using the 1/8" copper tube as a distributor and feed it with a balanced-port TXV?