P4P800-E Deluxe Droop Mod

Does anyone know how to do this mod? I just got a P4P800-E Deluxe, and do not have my P4P800 Deluxe anymore, I had to RMA the board and this is what they sent me back. I just finished installed my watercooling and the temperatures are great, but I cannot even reach 3.5ghz stable like I could on air, because I do not have a droop mod anymore. I did the 3.3v -> vdimm mod fine on the board. I searched the forum and could not find an answer, just people wondering the same as me. Does anyone have an idea of how to do this? I can scan my board if that could help possibly.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by TyphooN
Does anyone know how to do this mod? I just got a P4P800-E Deluxe, and do not have my P4P800 Deluxe anymore, I had to RMA the board and this is what they sent me back. I just finished installed my watercooling and the temperatures are great, but I cannot even reach 3.5ghz stable like I could on air, because I do not have a droop mod anymore. I did the 3.3v -> vdimm mod fine on the board. I searched the forum and could not find an answer, just people wondering the same as me. Does anyone have an idea of how to do this? I can scan my board if that could help possibly.

---

As long as they havent changed the controller (ADP3180), this is how the mod should be done. Thats a 50K VR set to 28K ohms.

What do u mean? Solder where those old points would be? The resistor arrangement around the controller is totally different. I still have the 100k vr set to 28k that i used before. Even if the arrangement of the resistors is different just solder to those locations???

Post a picture of the area around the ADP controller.

Alright, I will post one when I can borrow a digicam.

oops

mion.. what kind of a post was that? lol

I just took these pictures, My whitewater was still mounted, If these pictures do not cover enough then I can unmount it and take pictures again.

http://home.comcast.net/~typhoon007/p1.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~typhoon007/p2.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally posted by TyphooN
Sorry about that if someone has looked at the thread and couldn't see the images, the file extentions had capital letters so the links did not work, they are fine now.

---

On the ADP3180, the Vdroop is controlled via pins #17 (CSSUM) and #18 (CSCOMP).

It was hard to tell exactlly where the traces coming from these pins were going due to the thick white line present, but do a connectivity test between between those pins and the capacitor I pointed out. If they are connected to each end of that capacitor, then you can solder your VR to the ends of the capacitor, or to the solder pads behind it as they are also connected to it.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by TyphooN
Alright, I'll do a connectivity test when i get back from church this afternoon. Did you see my post about my X800? It is in the graphics vmods section.. If you can reply to it that would be great. Thank you for your help.

---

TyphooN, did this mod work out for you mate? :)

I did the conductivity test. It seemed to have worked out. I haven't done the mod yet. I am probably not going to do the mod until I get my x800 back this week. After that conductivity test I would say it would work and go for it. I will be trying it later this week.

Good Luck if you decide to do it :)

Let us know how it goes, gj HF!

-CaT

It works! :) Theres still a tiny droop but nothing like before.

Before: idle 1.62v load: 1.55v
After: idle 1.63 load: 1.60 - 1.62v

Quote:

---

Originally posted by CaTalyst.X
Let us know how it goes, gj HF!

-CaT

---

Thx CaT. ;)

Quote:

---

Originally posted by Del
It works! :) Theres still a tiny droop but nothing like before.

Before: idle 1.62v load: 1.55v
After: idle 1.63 load: 1.60 - 1.62v

---

Nice to see it worked out.

You can always try adjusting the VR to see if you can get a little less droop.

Na, I used fixed resistors. But still I'm pretty happy, allows me to up my clock from 3570 to 3640 :) One strange thing though, my vdimm seems to fluctuate a little more now from around 3.10v idle to around 3.06v but i've seen the voltage as high as 3.12v and as low as 3.02v according to the monitor in windows. I've check with a multimeter and it seems solid at 3.15v idle and load but I've not monitored it for long. Why is it that in windows it fluctuates so much? (Although it wasn't this bad prior to the mod).

Anyway Thanks Hell-Fire for showing us how it's done :)

Quote:

---

Originally posted by Del
Na, I used fixed resistors. But still I'm pretty happy, allows me to up my clock from 3570 to 3640 :) One strange thing though, my vdimm seems to fluctuate a little more now from around 3.10v idle to around 3.06v but i've seen the voltage as high as 3.12v and as low as 3.02v according to the monitor in windows. I've check with a multimeter and it seems solid at 3.15v idle and load but I've not monitored it for long. Why is it that in windows it fluctuates so much? (Although it wasn't this bad prior to the mod).

Anyway Thanks Hell-Fire for showing us how it's done :)

---

Was my pleasure bro.

I would ignore what a monitor is telling me and trust the DMM read.

Good Job Del. Thanks Hell-Fire for figuring out this mod. Del, it is normal for it to slightly droop, I don't think its possible to have exactly no droop. Enjoy your motherboard now :0, can u get some pics for us?

Del, I was also wondering, which spots did you use? I was thinking I will be soldering to the pads, it looks easier.

No pictures unfortunately, I've lent my camera to a friend who went on holiday. Hopefully I will be getting my hands on another before the weekend.

I soldered to the pads :)

Thanks. I will be doing the mod today ;D.

Good luck matey :)

Cool let us know how it goes

-CaT

I did this mod, now my comp doesn't start up. I really don't think it was because of the mod. My comp was not posting before the mod, I thought it was because of the video card. I think my CPU must be broken or something =/. When I turn my computer on, without a vga card, it never screams that vga test failed, when I have no memory in it says mem test failed, with the 12v connector disconnected it just says cpu test failed. But with everything in it just sits there not posting =/. Does anyone have any clue what could be wrong? I am probably going to go test my stuff in a friends computer.

I did find on my first boot it didn't post, but I reset the bios and it was fine. Remember the concern I had with the fluctuating vdimm? It seems after the mod my board no longer runs with as tight memory timings. I've had to set RAS to CAS Delay to 4 when I used to have it at 3. Other than that everythings fine, and the board is much more stable :)

Got my grubby mitts on a digital camera today heres a shot of the vdroop I did. Sorry for the obscured angle but thats the best I can do without removing my heatsink ;)

http://www.selman.demon.co.uk/overcl...800e_droop.JPG

Heres the vdimm if anyones interested in that. 15k resistor gives me spot on 3.2v at 1.85 in bios.

http://www.selman.demon.co.uk/overcl...800e_vdimm.JPG

That is very nice work man. GJ. :up:

Quote:

---

Originally posted by Hell-Fire
That is very nice work man. GJ. :up:

---

Cheers HF :)

did you just use solder and no wire? looks like thats a piece of solder to me haha. i did try resetting the bios, my computer has been like this for a few days, I am going to test my memory and cpu at a friends house. I just bought a new X800 pro vivo also. I hope my memory and cpu are fine =/. I checked all my voltages with a dmm on my board and they seem fine, vGPU = 1.4(stock), vDimm = 3.5(3.3v->vDimm), vCore = 1.6(1.525 in bios, so that seems about right, looks like the mod was done fine), either my memory or cpu must be fried =/. I really hope it is the CPU since bh-5 is no longer manufactured.

The silver wires are the actually resistor legs, I soldered them directly to the points without any wire as such.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by TyphooN
I really hope it is the CPU since bh-5 is no longer manufactured.

---

:eek: That is a shame :(

I had an IC7 before the P4PE which died, I did the vdimm mod on it malves style and it worked great. After about a week the machine just power off and wouldn't boot back again. No fans nothing, the LED on the board was on though and when you pressed the on switch you'll see a flicker of red where it would normally switch colours when booting and then revert back to green. It's just one of the risks you take when solder you board I suppose.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by Del
The silver wires are the actually resistor legs, I soldered them directly to the points without any wire as such.


:eek: That is a shame :(

I had an IC7 before the P4PE which died, I did the vdimm mod on it malves style and it worked great. After about a week the machine just power off and wouldn't boot back again. No fans nothing, the LED on the board was on though and when you pressed the on switch you'll see a flicker of red where it would normally switch colours when booting and then revert back to green. It's just one of the risks you take when solder you board I suppose.

---

Yep, its always a risk to Vmod anything.

I think one of the main things alot of people forget is that increased voltage means more heat, which means better coolign is needed.

Now, alot of people think/know to adjust their CPU, Vid Card, and sometimes NB cooling....but give little thought the FETs and Vregs that are now carrying an increased load.

I tested my CPU at a friends house. It did not work at all. SNDS or I don't know what could have happened. The memory was fine, but it only worked in single channel for some reason??? When I tried his CPU and my memory in my board it didn't work. He would not let me try his memory in my board. I don't know how this could have happened. My computer has been down for a long time, ever since my failed x800 mod, and I just wanted to use it earlier this week with an old card, and that was when I noticed my computer acting this way. The computer was working 100% fine before the failed x800 mod. The droop mod should be fine though, the voltage is reading 1.6... I guess I need a new cpu/memory =/. Anyone know why it wont go dual channel??

Del, just got a quick question about the ADP3180 chip u did that mod too.
Could u explain the markings on the chip,
"J 0418"
"444379.1"

Because mine reads ADP3180:
"J 0348"
"345712.1"

As long as the chip reads ADP3180, thats all that matters bud.

The top row of numbers is the manufacture date, and the bottom I believe is the batch number...but not sure.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by Hell-Fire
Yep, its always a risk to Vmod anything.

I think one of the main things alot of people forget is that increased voltage means more heat, which means better coolign is needed.

Now, alot of people think/know to adjust their CPU, Vid Card, and sometimes NB cooling....but give little thought the FETs and Vregs that are now carrying an increased load.

---

It would be so much easier if I had a thermal imaging camera. ;)

The guy I bought this board from on ebay has been giving me the runaround. First he says it got returned as undeliverable. Now he's saying if it hasn't arrived by the end of the week he'll just refund my money (less "shipping" and paypal fee's I'm sure). Sounds like he wasn't happy with the closing price.

thanks hell-fire, i thought I'd be safer to ask then to solder and find out I got the wrong chip.

I highly doubt that the p4p800-e deluxe's wouldn't all use the same controller as each other rudski, gl on the mod.

that is an extremely clean mod GREAT WORK!

Once you get down and look at the points, it may look a little challanging, but if you have the -E Deluxe, just solder the pads to the cap (they are connected anyway, and then u have a bigger area to work in! Cheers

-CaT

Just installed the mod...and it seems to be doing nothing :(.

vcore @ 1.725 in BIOS results in 1.775 in windows at idle, under load it drops to 1.6-1.65v. I've got a 47k ohm VR set @ 28k ohms, just like the OP says, but it's not doing much. as-is, the voltage drop is completely killing stability....

I didnt know they made 47K Ohm VRs.

I take it you are reading Vcore with a DMM and not some windows utility.

I'm assuming the VR is 47k since just about the only identification on the thing is the number "47k" on the side. My fluke is reading its resistance at 28.30k (28300), so it should be set correctly.

Sadly, yes, all I have to go on for the voltages are software monitors. If you could point out where I can read them with the DMM, i'd be glad to see if windows is just being its usuall dense self.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by OperativeSix
I'm assuming the VR is 47k since just about the only identification on the thing is the number "47k" on the side. My fluke is reading its resistance at 28.30k (28300), so it should be set correctly.

Sadly, yes, all I have to go on for the voltages are software monitors. If you could point out where I can read them with the DMM, i'd be glad to see if windows is just being its usuall dense self.

---

Try checking the Vcore on the FETs around the cpu socket, and the solder pads for the Chokes.

I dont have a pic of a P4P800 around, but here is where I suggested to someone where to check the Vcore on a P4C800. It should get you started in the right direction. I only point out one FET to try and a few Chokes in this pic, but I would check all the FET legs that are nearby the socket.

I did the drop mod and Vdimm on my P4P800-E rev. 1.02.
The Vdimm works great and here are my results on drop mod:
I set the VR trimpot to 28K and when installed i read 20,2K because it's paralell with the snd resistor. I made some tests and the Vcore was much more stable. I set the Bios to 1,5625V and in idle it reads 1,648V.
I ran speedfan 1.45 to see what was happening to the Vcore and it's oscilates a lot less but sometimes it drops a lot. (To 1,584V) but anyway lot less than before. I adjust it to 22,5K (remenber it's in paralell with snd) and the drops was more frequent. I went back to 20,2K. Does anyone here has the sames results???
I was able to reach 3,9Ghz with my 2.8C M0 SL6Z5.
Other thing: Does anyone knows if there's a BIOS to enable PAT on P4P800-E??

Thanks!

I did the droop mod last night with a 27k fixed resistor and a 2k variable resistor in series. When I turn it on the PSU fans spin up, but the board does nothing. No beeps, no cpu voltage, no video signal. I'm gonna clip the wires now and see if it posts...but dangit that wasted a couple hours last night. Anyone have any suggestions?

I measured the pre-mod resistance at the point of soldering to be 73.8k, set it to 29k pre-solder, and the combined resistance was 20.2k, seems like that is what others were getting...maybe I need a higher resistance for my board :(

sounds like you've shorted something or blown a vreg. check your soldering carefully, and HOLY THREAD RESSURECTION BATMAN! :D

Got it fixed. Turns out I burned the trace which goes between the capacitor and the original resistance when soldering to the bare pads. I just had to solder a small wire in to replace the trace and its working good now.

On another note...there is good reason why a 28k resistance is the best value. When looking through the data sheet for the voltage regulator IC, they show three possible configurations, one of which is for most accurate voltage output. Guess what resistance they show in parallel with the 100nF capacitor? ..... A 20k Ohm resistor!!! Why did the mobo manufacturers ever use anything other than this value? I measured mine at 73.8k Ohms, with a 28k Ohm resistor parallel, this comes out to 20.3k Ohms.

Voltage is much more stable now, though there is some droop. I have my 2k variable resistor maxed out right now...series with a 27k fixed resistor I am at 29k total, so I need to lower it some to get the best performance, but I am very happy so far.

see my recent post for the pics by malves of the p4c800 vdimm and droop mods

the proth pencil ghetto mod for the p5wd2 premium can works on p4p800-e dlx?

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=94659


thank's for the answers

I don't know, did you read the entire proth thread? I know the 28k fixed resistor mod works like a charm. PM me and I will send you the pic.

I know that the 28khom resitor works fine..but i can't solder it on the mobo...because I'm not a master whit the solder :D

if the ghetto mod works...i try it...and go for dry benching on my nw...otherwise i will bench without the vdroop :(

sorry for my bad english...

cool.

topdog5050, nice spamming :up:






Not :down:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ceemic

topdog5050, nice spamming :up:






Not :down:

---

took him 3 days to get 100+ posts:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:


toptog you think they gonna allow you into for sale section :rofl: its 1000 posts now lol
i bet he gets to 1000 in 5 days:rofl:

These mod still run on that board? I have read anything about set the poti to 27k instead of 28k?

What i do not read in the mods for use with ADP3180 is that there could be a thermal resistor into the same circuit on the board which will make mesurments for the exact resistants temperature variable
On 3180`s data sheet shows a example circuit for a P4 board with the thermal
resistor (NTC) into the resistor divider circuit at pin 17-18

I did make my own vdroop mod on a P4P800S-X board using a different board layout and chips but i even managed to raise the vcore when stressing the cpu instead of drop down so its posible to get onto unusual settings.
i am still testing and time will learn if it keeps work good in several situations
but i think it will.
Nice to keep on experiment with "old" boards ! thats make fun and wont cost much as well.
:up: