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I know mips makes a set for the Rampage II Gene which looks like it will fit the Rampage III Gene. But is anyone else making a set or a fullcover waterblock for this motherboard? Thanks.
Psygnosi:)
http://www.ewiz.com/newg/M/B/-/MB-RA...M3-GE.1_LG.GIF
I doubt its even possible if you're expecting a single block covering the mosfet, north and south bridge judging from the narrow gap between the RAM and PCIe slots.Quote:
Originally Posted by psygnosi
Phil
Actually a set would be okay. EK has a NB/SB block that will work but still missing the Mosfet on top. Mips has the complete set but I would have to order it from Germany.
http://www.mips-computer.com/images/mch2436.jpg
Psygnosi:(
i waiting for one block plz
I know I want to get one for when I upgrade to WC this winter. I'm interested.
I've got a friend who is interested in getting this board for a project I'm working on for him. He wants a full cover block as well. It may not be for a month or two, but I'm going to give it a go. As mentioned, the distance between the RAM and PCIe slots is the biggest problem here. I'm going to see if I can work around that without restricting too much flow between the northbridge and southbridge.
You could just skip the SB block and do just the NB and mosfet. I doubt the SB is going to get that hot.
Try ordering custom made from Duniek.Quote:
Originally Posted by alexjpn
1+:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
afair he leaves that buisnes :( no more custom WBs :(Quote:
Originally Posted by churchy
Eek, somehow missed this. Pitty, his blocks were pure bling, and he often was last chance if you wanted some 'one piece' full cover everything, when major LC vendors released only sets consisting of two or more separate waterblocks for particular motherboard model.
Quote:
Originally Posted by psygnosi
I have this exact same set. Wondering if the r2e gene and r3e gene have the same mounting holes.
One has to add cost of extra 4 fittings and extra flow restriction of set to get clear comparison to one piece full cover. On plus side it's partial universality though. As minuses for set i'd count uglier looks and bigger mess in case because of all that extra tubing.
The boards are basically identical. Difference is +USB 3.0 and -eSATA port. Mounting holes are the same based on what I have seen.Quote:
Originally Posted by glide 1
so are there really no differences at all except for a revised support sheet? I don't understand what the differences are really... it can't be that similar could it?Quote:
Originally Posted by dejanh
i would recommend not getting the SB liquid cooled its an ich10 and they put out little to no heat and liquid cooling it will most likely make the part hotter, so since u have a nice cooler there before why bother when it will just be counter productive.
and have u looked at the maximus 3 gene, the 1156 45nm quads are faster clock for clock than the 1366 45nm quads, and it has a more spread out pwm with standard holes so u could get 2x liquid blocks, leave them alone or get a thermal right kit, then it has the p55 thats a renamed ich10r with some bonus stuff and it also dose not get hot or need liquid
they changed the colors, and changed the jmicron chip to the marvel usb3/sata6 chip, i dont get the point since the marvel chip is useless for sata6 as its slower than the ich or the amd SB and there are better usb3 controllers now. and they swapped the esata on the back for 2x usb3.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nanometer
i think that its a downgrade but the rampage3 gene is cheaper than the rampage 2 gene but the maximous 3 gene is a better idea IMO
Yup I agree. R3G seems a downgrade from R2G in my opinion. Other than the color which is a lot nicer than the R2G this board has nothing on the R2G. What's the point of the USB 3.0 and SATA6? Gimmick :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by zanzabar
I like the idea of a NB/PWM block, has it been done before?
EK is going to make a block set for the Rampage III Gene! Hooray!
Here is the response from EK's Gregor Hribernik - Development and Quality Officer:
Hello,
I have good news. I got particular mobo and we are looking into it. Might not be FB block due to limited space, but still…..
ETA 3-4 weeks due to other projects.
Lep pozdrav/Best regards/MfG/Cordialement
Hopefully they make it a full solution from the North Bridge to the Mospets...that would look really good on the board...would give it a clean look.
afair 1/3 of CPU's VRM MOSFETs located on the other side of board/
does they need additional cooling and how to cool THEM?
I agree, the south bridge is an unnecessary pipe dream on M-ATX board. Those MOSSFETS on the back side of the board suck some what, EK should make a shallow finned backing plate for their planned block.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmerbrown
Isn't there folk on here from EK? would be ace to see some renders?
finally!
I've been checking the EK news daily for this...
EDIT: lol... not quite... it says "no stock"
EDIT: also, where's matching SB block?
Quote from EK web site "Block covers only NB and mosfets!"
So I guess SB block is out of question. SB gets hot much less than NB or mosfets so not important to watercool in most cases (performance wise) IMO.
Anyone know if it fits the Gene II ?
Shame its just renders and no word on when they will become available.
Looks like EK has em in stock now...
http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/me..._front_600.jpg
Ordered.. went with the same model shown above.
I'll post back when it arrives, still a few weeks away from using it mind.
J.
On the South bridge, EK-NB/SB SUS 1 can be installed, but that would not allow installing a second VGA card.
Thanks for the heads up, I need the second VGA slot in my set up, the Ichr10R doesn't kick out enough heat to warrant water for me..
IMHO copper pinned heatsink (e.g. enzotech) would be enough for southbridge even with high load (RAID etc.)
Well in that case you can leave stock heat sink on. Right?:yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetalar
Tackleberry
i like the look of copper heatsinks :) and don't like anodized alu...
well in that case go for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetalar
your $$$$ anyway :D
Will this fit the MIIIGene? I know it is a long shot but have my fingers crossed :D
My EK - FB R3Gene block turned up yesterday thought I'd share a couple photos. I'm quite impressed with the delivery service over at the EK online store, Shipped out from Slovenia on the 8th, GLS (the courier) enabled me to track it's progress as it made its way across Europe.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/s...20Gene/web.jpg
...
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/s...Gene/web-1.jpg
...
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/s...Gene/web-2.jpg
...
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/s...Gene/web-6.jpg
...
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/s...Gene/web-5.jpg
...
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/s...Gene/web-7.jpg
...
This will now sit patiently back in it's box until the rest of my gear is ready for fitting. Like the other EK blocks I've bought this one is no exception, great build quality the nickel finish is flawless, great clear instructions and I'm really liking the new packaging EK have been using.
EDIT: swapped the photos over to Photobucket
J.
pix is no workies?Quote:
Originally Posted by HackJoe
i really wanna see!
Should be working now, switched them from MobileMe to Photobucket.
J.
Now FrozenCPU and Performance PC have them in stock!
Now its just the wait....:eek:
I just ordered an asus rampage 3 gene today to replace my DFI Jr x58 that i just broke :[ (gotta be careful when trying to push hoses onto barbs on already mounted water blocks... namely the northbridge. They can't take a lot of force apparently.). If I don't run into issues testing it on air, I plan to order the EK block.
Sorry to hear that. Yeah, the northbridge doesn't have a heatspreader meaning it's sensitive to crushing :S.Quote:
Originally Posted by Diverge
What sucks is it didn't crush the die at all. Must of messed up the solder balls under the chip. It's a BGA package, which is just little solder balls as contacts. to solder to the motherboard it goes through a solder reflow machine. If that is really what happened, it would need to be desoldered, and reballed and then reflowed back on... which isn't cheap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexandr0s
Hooray! I finally got mine from FrozenCPU! Here it is installed! Sweet!:D
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/s.../R3GBlock1.jpg
With Bitspower Compression fittings:
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/s...i/P1010061.jpg
Sweet. Do you have any temp. report on this cooling?
Just got the Southbridge Block(EK NB/SB Asus-1). Here are pics:
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/s...i/EKBlock1.jpg
With Bitspower Compression Fittings:
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/s...i/EKBlock3.jpg
http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/s...i/EKBlock2.jpg
Will be installing it this weekend. I'll report the temps then. A XFX 6870 Temporarily will be going in the lone 1st PCI-Express slot(An XFX 6990 will replace it once its released). Soundblaster XFI- Titaniium Fatality will go in the Second PCI-Express slot( Notice the SB Block blocks the 2nd PCI-E slot).
Can you not flip the SB block around as to not block the second PCIe slot?
then it would block 1st slotQuote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
Hi tackleberry,
Temps before waterblock installed: NB: 64c SB: 56c. With Waterblocks: NB 37c SB: 34c! Ambient temp outside is 31c. I think this was worth it!
I'm a happy camper.....:P
Nice!!
Just a little word of warning... Tolerance in the mosfet area is very tight indeed.
I've just fried my R3Gene with the block... First it was shorting the components to the right of the block (on the CPU socket side) which made the PSU automatically switch off after a fraction of a second of powering on (good for Corsair's short circuit protection!). The motherboard did survive this.
However, when I repositioned the block it made contact with that grey cube marked with a "C" just below the EATX power socket, and that did kill the poor thing.
Not trying to blame anyone but myself, Eddy is not responsible for different manufacturing tolerances or less than ideal mounts, just a word of advice.
Second motherboard I insulated the perimeter using kapton tape and now is all good and dandy :) not the most sightly approach if you're after bling though :p:
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/2087/ektape2.jpg
http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/6936/ektape1.jpg
psygnosi this can't be good :
http://imgur.com/6yAYq.jpg
Plastic top touching insulated capacitors doesn't pose a threat IMO.
The problem is not in the capacitors, is in the contacts of those... I guess CMOS voltage references? Just an educated guess , I mean the grey rectangular prisms to the left of the CPU socket and on the other side the contacts of what I guess again is a power inductor (grey cube marked with a "C" below the EATX power connector)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tackleberry
And nope, the delrin top doesn't make contact with anything, and if it did the only problem is mechanical (it wouldn't let the block sit properly) but certainly not electrical :)
[QUOTE=guilleguillaume;4632183]psygnosi this can't be good :
Mine is working fine without any problems....:D
psygnosi:eek:
I was reffering to guilleguillaume's encircled capacitors.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrToad
I mean that one of the capacitors encircled is bent. As i saw on the pics it's bent but well it would matter for me but maybe for others not ^^
[QUOTE=psygnosi;4632933]Good good... Mine is not :(Quote:
Originally Posted by guilleguillaume
Thought the kapton tape had fixed the issues, but not, didn't...
The moment I tighten the screws on the mosfet side of the block, motherboard stops powering up. Thing is, if I don't tighten them there's no good contact with the mosfets...
Funny thing is, I've insulated completely the block, yet still happens...
Either the block is flexing the board (although I can't really see it) or something else is going on...
Any ideas?
There is most likely a dry solder joint under or around the block.
Possible, but is the second board that behaves like this... Coincidence?Quote:
Originally Posted by Warranty_Void
The only thing I can think of is that the block is shorting out or causing an open circuit on the board with pressure when you tighten up the block, It could be that is it miss shaped in some way. If you have fully insulated the block pressure can be the only issue I can see. I take it you've try using washers on the screws.
Yep, I'm using the supplied nylon washers on the screws...Quote:
Originally Posted by Warranty_Void
Gonna change the thermal pads just in case they have absorbed some kind of metal residue (after all I was modding the case in the same room) and that's what's causing the issue...
Righty, second R3Gene down... I've tried every possible mount I could but in the end the board no longer boots... permanently...
Good thing I took insurance against accidental damage when I made the purchase so both the block and the board are going back, maybe I'll get third time lucky when I receive the replacement ones...
I've been on the fence about purchasing this block for my R3G, and think I will hold off a bit to see how your 3rd experience goes.
Please remove the 3rd party gray spacer you have put on the FB block on the NB contact area and use ONLY the encased spacers!Quote:
Originally Posted by MrToad
You did remove foil from thermal pad, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by MrToad
Guess he didn't. And I hope so for that, because I just got my R3Gene at home already running at 4,4 GHz after 10 minutes of tweaking, but still want to put nb and mosfet area under ek block. But I can see some issues are possible so I will hold on for now..
Again, please note that the grey distancer/shim around the X58 NB core is not a part of FB-R3Gene waterblock and should not be used with this block! :up:
I did, sorry I didn't give more info. The last four mount attempts were without the foam spacer, but didn't change the outcome, board was still refusing to power on.Quote:
Originally Posted by tiborrr
The only way I could make it power on was leaving the screws loose, thus making poor contact (I did take it off to check how loose I could leave the screws without compromising contact)... In the very last attempt I thought I had hit the sweet spot, but I was wrong :( there was too much "play" so when I fitted the tubing on the barbs the block "tipped" and crushed the NB, taking a chip off the corner, shorting it with a beautiful flash of intense blue light and sending the board to meet it's maker (pun intended :p: )
Still I don't give up, I have a new board and block coming next week :)
Yes, I did. I was just putting it back while tinkering with the block because thermal pads are crap magnets, and crap doesn't conduct heat very well :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Tackleberry
Thanks a lot for the input tho, and I'll make sure I don't use the foam spacer next time, saves me the aggro of removing it... Even with citrus solvent that adhesive was stubborn!
Edit: for the record I will repeat myself, I don't think there's anything wrong with the EK block, all this trouble is most likely consequence of bad luck and a naughty batch of R3Gene boards... After all both boards come from the same supplier and batch, and it is far more likely that a batch of motherboards has different tolerances when it comes to soldering hundreds of components than it is for EK to machine a block of copper "wrong", and we already have a testimony of the EK block working fine.
You got BALLS man!!! i'll giveup after second kill. wish You luck next time. (that MOBO is in my wishlist for X-mass :) ) but block will be custom made to make all tolerances clear...Quote:
I have a new board and block coming next week
just ordered mine.
had been using a C12P whilst on air and it was running lovely, put the cpu under water last night, and felt the mosfet/chipset sinks, very very hot.
my case will have very little airflow in this area, so i guess i'll have to use the block.
Well, received my replacement board and block today, so here goes board #3, block #2 and attempt #18...
@tiborr:
Any suggestions apart from NOT using the NB foam protector?
I'm still not happy leaving the SMCs of the NB exposed under a huge block of copper, so I suppose I'll cover them with kapton tape (is 0.07 mm thick so I sincerely doubt it will have any impact on the mount at all and it gives me peace of mind...)
I would really appreciate any constructive directions as I'm starting to feel rather inadequate after all this hardware destruction and failed mounts.
since crushing northbridge last time try to connect tubing first and THAN attach block to MOBO
Thanks for that :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetalar
It actually happened because the block tilted as I couldn't really apply much mounting pressure or the board would not POST. I was really hoping for a mount that achieves proper mounting pressure this time, but if that's not achievable I'll keep in mind your suggestion :)
@tiborr:
Another little niggle... Instructions say I should have two thermal pads:
90 x 15 x 1mm
60 x 25 x 0.5mm
I have those and also a 44 x 15 x 1mm. Now according to the instructions the 1 mm one go on top of the board and the 0.5 mm one under the board... However the 0.5 mm one is not big enough to cover the mosfets on the bottom of the board...
Now, I could use the 90 x 15 x 1mm on the mosfets adjacent to the CPU socket and the 44 x 15 x 1mm on the mosfets adjacent to the NB (they're the right size and the right thickness according to the instructions) but the remaining 0.5mm one as I said is not big enough to cover the mosfets under the board. I had to use a separately purchased sheet of 0.5mm thermal pad to do all the previous attempts. However, I've run out of it now...
More over, the 90 x 15 x 1mm pad is not long enough to cover both sets of mosfets on the top of the board, so an educated guess is that the "extra" 44 x 15 x 1mm pad was included to make up for it.
So, summarizing, have I got it right and it goes like this:
90 x 15 x 1mm goes on the mosfets adjacent to the CPU socket
44 x 15 x 1mm goes on the mosfets adjacent to the NB
60 x 25 x 0.5 covers some of the mosfets on the back of the board, and get a life to cover the rest...
Edit: I could cut the 60 x 25 in half and have two 60 x 12.5 pads which are long enough the cover them, but not quite wide enough, really really tight there...
I've raised a ticket with EK to see if Eddy can point me in the right direction with this...
Daring maybe but not foolhardy :D
MrToad, I've just checked everything and there is enough 0.5mm thermal pad encased with the water block to fit all power regulation chips. You need to trim the thermal pad in smaller pieces and cover individual PWM chips if necessary. Just follow the manual and you should be OK. I would really suggest you to remove the gray spongy shim, mentioned in previous posts and do a 'dry run' mount. By 'dry run' I mean install the block as per instruction manual, remove it and inspect the contact. When everything is OK, re-mount the waterblock the same way as before. If there are problems with the contact inspect the mobo/block assembly and troubleshoot the source of bad contact. Take a picture of the possibly problematic spot afterwards! :up:
EDIT: Install the tubing on the water block prior to the final installation of the FC waterblock on the motherboard! There is a chance you have chipped off the SMD elements on the X58 organic packaging in previous attempts.
I'm "starting fresh" again tonight (brand new mobo and block) and I've worked out an easy way to put the tubing on the block BEFORE mounting it, so no excessive pressure (or torsion/traction) is applied to it after is seated.Quote:
Originally Posted by tiborrr
I will indeed mount it WITHOUT the "spongy shim" :)
I still can't see how that caused so many problems, however is the only major difference between my trail of unsuccessful mounts and hardware failures and other people's successes...
Maybe if that's the source of the issues the very first mount on each motherboard caused the damage and then it didn't matter how many attempts or changes I did afterwards, with or without the shim, the damage was already done so the outcome was always the same...
Either way, thanks to everyone for your suggestions (and to Gregor for replying to my ticket)
Wish me good luck :)
No joy...
Haven't fried the motherboard this time, but the first mount, doing everything "by the book" resulted in the same symptoms as the other two.
Unless I leave the block almost loose, all I hear is a "click" on the PSU and then powers itself off (for the record I've tried with three different PSUs, which boot the board with the stock cooling fine).
I'll give it another shot tomorrow, now I'm too tired and I know I'll make a stupid mistake and kill something...
Apologies for stealing your pic Psygnosi, didn't have any of my board available at work...
Did some last late night experiment and this is what I found out. I removed all screws from the block, removed the block itself and then gently seated it in place.
Then I applied force downwards using my fingers on different points. The green circles mark where applying downwards force doesn't prevent the motherboard from powering on, the red circles mark where applying force does stop it.
I checked the thermal pads for anomalies but there seems to be even (and not excessive) pressure in all three of them (the grooves caused by the mosfets on the stock thermal pads are at least 0.3 mm deeper than the ones on the block pads).
Honestly, shy of sending both the board and the block to EK I don't know what else to do... I'm running out of ideas :(
Is not like is the first time I do this, this is the fifth motherboard model I fit waterblocks on... Except the very first one (a nvidia 680 Abit board) where I crushed the mosfets with the block (novice problems, I tried to use thermal paste instead of thermal pads on them... ) I haven't experienced any other issues, but the feeling of inadequacy is really setting in now...
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/4185/r3gblock1.jpg
Did you use backplate on mosfets?
Yep, I did. And no third party pads either. Cut the included 0.5mm pad as instructed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tackleberry
I also verified contact there too. No shorts, no uncovered mosfets.
try to isolate block surroundings (SMDs, chokes etc.) with tape or smth. check MOBO bending while tightening block screws. and what conditions (case or open stand)? maybe bad earthing of system could cause that symptoms...
Done. Used ESD safe kapton tape to cover everything in the surrounding area that doesn't get cooled.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetalar
I can see slight pcb warping on the top left corner of the motherboard as soon as I do anything but leave the bolts retaining the mosfet part of the block anything but completely loose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetalar
Both inside the case fully assembled (first few attempts with first motherboard) and "open air" on an ESD safe workstation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetalar
If I have the will to face it during the weekend, which is unlikely really, I might try 0.5 mm thermal tape on the mosfets, starting from the ones adjacent to the NB and then the ones next to the CPU depending on bending/contact...
Thanks for reading and posting the suggestions tho... After so many unsuccessful attempts is not unusual to slip into a "can't see the wood for the trees" state...
try to replace mosfet backplate to something harder to avoid bending of MOBO.
Do you have a DVM (meter)? If so, try to find what the block is shorting too. Set it to continuity mode, and put one probe on the block, and check out ground and +12V. those would be the first ones I'd check as thats what the 8-pin cpu power plug is (yellow = +12V, black = ground)... and that is used by the cpu regulator circuit (which your block is cooling).
you don't need to be powered on to find the short. so a meter should be a safe way to find the short without damaging your board again.
As Diverge suggested measure where the block is possibly shorting out :yepp:. I will try to get a board on monday, install the EK-R3Gene block and test it out. No promises though, I have to see if the board is in stock somewhere in the vicinity.
Best Regards,
N. :up:
Thanks for the suggestion :) after reading it I went "duh, how didn't I think on that" :) :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Diverge
That's really kind of you :)Quote:
Originally Posted by tiborrr
I'll take the fluke out to play tomorrow, now I have a 7 year old walking around the house singing "bored, bored, bored, bored..." if we don't go out in the next 15 mins I'm gonna turn murderous :p:
I know its a stupid question but I was stupid enough to forget about using them, did u use some sort of standoffs ? u put them between the block and the motherboard , a plastic standoffs like this:
http://www.3dcontentcentral.com/Show...s/standoff.jpg
only its lower , like 2mm or 3 , they make sure the block isn't losing and also not making any unnecessary contacts
I just ordered the board + block. I'm getting a little worried now :(
I think I will wait before installing the block when it arrives.
@Diverge
since block bolted to board with metal bolts through metalized (and grounded i think) holes in MoBo there MUST be "ground" on the block but no 12v.
Not a stupid question, but yes, I did remember to use the standoffs :)Quote:
Originally Posted by amajed
In fact I love standoffs and don't miss the times when blocks didn't have them at all.
I think I remember Naekuh championing for them when only one manufacturer seemed to give them any relevance ;)
Either way it's too late now to start tinkering about with the multimeter... Tomorrow after work I'll give it another shot...
Can't say buying a Rampage III Extreme and another block didn't cross my mind tho :p: I'm really starting to lose it with this setup, but things are so tight that changing the board would mean re-thinking the whole thing (I'm using a Lian-Li PC-B10 and a Mo-Ra3 Pro 4x140 so I could fit two pumps, two 5870s and other stuff inside the case...)
Either way, tomorrow more and better ;)
Nope, it doesn't have grounding at those holes. In fact, the stock heatsink uses plastic washers to keep the screw from touching/scratching any nearby traces. The only holes that have grounding are the motherboard to case holes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetalar
I have a board here, and just looked at it. I been debating weather to get this block or not... Or if I even want to watercool the northbridge/voltage regs.
And... board #3 down the pan... I was going to check with the multimeter, but before that I did one last "dry run"... Big mistake...
It will no longer POST. It stops on the CPU led, and doesn't follow through. I've checked the CPU and is fine on a different board (phew!). If I lose this 980X I'd be pretty miffed...
This time there's no chipping on the NB or any other discernible faults, but still dead as a dodo...
I have one last R3Gene (the first one that died I actually managed to process an RMA due to the fact that ASUS is one of our suppliers and the rep was feeling kind that day), gonna think very very carefully what my next step is... If the air flow wouldn't be so poor in the area I would just leave it stock and don't look back...
EDIT: I've taken some pics of the dead board just in case they reveal anything I've missed or there are any differences... Apologies for the bad quality of the pics, photography is not really one of my strengths
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/4604/mb3d.jpg
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/9432/mb20.jpg
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/8283/mb1lq.jpg
Save a board hang a damn fan there.
Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk
maybe some damage on the backside? there is 1/3 CPU MOSFETs overhere...:shakes:Quote:
Originally Posted by MrToad
as i'm already told - i'll give up after 2nd kill.
interesting: how many such blocks produced by EK? and is there more negative feedback on them???
Don't think is not tempting, but I'm very obstinate... Sometimes too obstinate for my own good.Quote:
Originally Posted by MagisD
Nope, I've already checked that... Actually is the NB again... There is a small area on the surface, towards the middle, that doesn't look right... It's like it's suffered smallpox, if you know what I mean. My feeling it's that's shorted again and blown the NB.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetalar
And common sense says that you're right... But there's a little insidious voice in my head that keeps pushing me to give it another go...Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetalar
As far as I know I'm the only one having the problems, haven't read any other posts with issues, what has me wondering over and over again "what am I doing wrong?"Quote:
Originally Posted by Vetalar
EDIT: Anyway I'm waiting to see if Tiborr has anything to add before I go ahead with board #4...
Definition of insanity is repeating the same actions over and over expecting different results.
Quick question are you useing same block to kill all these boards?
Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk
no kidding? :rofl: me too, it's a good thing, just costly :DQuote:
Originally Posted by MrToad
I hear that voice too,....annoying little sod isn't he! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by MrToad
When i hear that ^ little voice, I put the current plan aside and start from the beginning again. Throw out all pre-conceived idea and theories and start from scratch.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrToad
Try to come at it from a different angle, If you take a different path and arrive at the same destination, then it is not you that is wrong, but the vehicle.
edit:yeah what he said ^ :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by MagisD
Sorry to be so cryptic, but it works with most problems not just pc's :D
Hang in there! :up: this is a better drama than Lost!
Can't wait to see who dies next :rofl:
That's one definition... Another one is:Quote:
Originally Posted by MagisD
"What if I told you insane was working fifty hours a week in some office for fifty years at the end of which they tell you to p1ss off; ending up in some retirement village hoping to die before suffering the indignity of trying to make it to the toilet on time? Wouldn't you consider that to be insane?" :D :p: (Steve Buscemi as Garland Greene in Con Air ;) )
Either way, the answer is no. This is the 2nd block :) and I haven't repeated my steps over and over again, is just that the difference between "the block is too loose" and "damn, now is too tight and I've shorted/killed something" seems to be in the region of decimals of mm...
I hear you, that's why I've asked my gf too to look into the problem too. She knows very little about computers, but her logic is sound.Quote:
Originally Posted by Creekin
Hmmm... Probably my bank balance, but we'll see in the next episode :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Creekin
Temporary Solution
I bought a 2nd Rampage III Gene and the EK Nickel/Acetal block to build. Since the 1st board and block are working fine, I did not want to take any chances so I basically taped the whole 2nd EK block(including the channel area and bottom part). I also taped the whole mosfet backplate as well. Now I put some thermal paste on the northbridge and put the taped up block on it. I cut a perfect rectangle on the part where the thermal paste made contact with a xacto knife. Then I got the thermal pads put them on the bottom of the block. I cut around the pads so that the tape underneath can be removed. I did the same thing to the Mosfet backplate. Last but not least I put red paper washers(screw head) on the bottom of the mosfet backplate.
Doing this eliminated any chance of the block causing the short. Only exposed area is the northbridge. The system booted and I was happy. I further went ahead and used the xacto knife to carefully cut around the line where the acetal and nickel met and removed the excess tape on the acetal area. Until someone can actually find where the exact location of the short is, this is possibly the only solution for now. Thanks and hope this helps you guys.
Psygnosi:up: