I tried to search, but didn't come up with anything good...
The question is: what are you guys using to control multiple fans per channel?
Most products seems quite weak in this department and with higher Amp fans it's getting even more tricky.
Help is appreciated.
I use a Sunbeam Rheobus which supports 20W per channel: http://jab-tech.com/Sunbeam-5-1-4-Rh...K-pr-2530.html
Easily handles two fans per channel and I plan on using three on one channel soon
There is also an extreme version which supports 30W per channel: http://jab-tech.com/Sunbeam-Rheobus-...k-pr-4090.html
Have had the most luck with the Sunbeam Rheobus - it's a hardy little sucker.
I pretty much come to the same conclusion, but there are some bad reviews on newegg... Thanks for re-assuring.
Anybody tried multi-fans on NZTX LX (double slot) controller?
its only .4 amps per channel which is about 4 watts
I use the Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme 30 watts per channel. Im running 2 fans off of each plug. im sure it could run 3 or 4 if needed.
I use a crystal fontz.... 1.5a per channel and full computer and automated control options :rocker:
Yes< so do I, but that's not exactly a cheap or easy solution...Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
What is this price you speak of? after dropping about 1.5 grand on parts, laser cut acrylic, paint, nickel plating and tools (drill press:woot:) in the past week and a half alone I have no concept of price anymore :rofl: my plans of saving some of my 800/2week paycheck to invest over the course of the summer went up in flames
I have two of the new Scythe Kaze Master Ace's which are 1A (x4) and 4 temps. Display is nice blue and green LED and it can stop fans.
I have an original sunbeam rheobus i purchased in 2002, and it is still fully functional today. Until recently when i purchased my TMS-200.. I had been running 6 x 140mm yate loons off of a single channel, no problems whatsoever.
The newer extreme version is even better...I just don't like the faceplate.
But that rheobus is hella easy to mod. 4 tiny holes drilled and you could literally mount it almost anywhere.
If you want an unintelligent controller that is powerful, simple and built to last.... Get the sunbeam.
I'm running three YL D12SM-12s off of one channel in my rheobus extreme and I'm not having issues. Speaking on the unit as a whole, I'm very pleased with mine. It has a few bad solder joints at the base of some of the heatsinks, but they don't affect performance at all.
Best off the shelf...Rheobus Extreme. Simple, and handles 30W per channel.
If you want to get fancy or need more than just a fan controller, CrystalFontz, Aquero and others are excellent. But bang for the buck, Rheobus Extreme hands down.
Uh...when did this thread become about you? :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
it was a joke really.... I was making fun of myself for blowing all my money on parts :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnee
QFTQuote:
Originally Posted by skinnee
Still rocking my original(now the OLDEST component in my pc by far)Sunbeam 4 channel 20W rheobus...I did push the LED's back into the casing though to save my eyeballs from bursting into flames :rofl:. I hear they toned them down for the newer 6 channel 30 watt version and will eventually get one of those too.
You want automation or manual control?
Thanks you everybody, I went with Sunbeam. Manual is fine with me.
CrystalF looks interesting, but looks like needs some effort to figure it out... plus it looks like software based.... nothing beats ol' harware solution.
Try these posts:
Basically, go with a voltage-changing controller (rheobus) cause PWM just are so hit and miss when combining fans and controllers.
Koolance TMS-200 has the hardware to do everything, just have to get the sofware figured out. The TBalancer BigNG is also an option. Here's a good comparative post between the two.
Here's also a post kinds summing up all the top controllers and where they stand.
Hope this all helps. It should be noted the more robust controllers (tms200, bigNG) can also do pumps/etc
try to use Sunbeam Rheobus.....
the rheobuss extreme isnt as bright and annoying as the normal rheobus.
The extreme also has massive sinks on it, so u know that thing is meant for action.
I use the extreme, and it handles 3 san aces on 1 chanel very nicely... thats 1.56amps combined.
I see one thing missing from this topic. No one asked what fans your running. If your running GT's, you could run anywhere from 3 to 20 (depending on which version) on one channel of the NZTX Sentry LX.
As for a brute of a fan controller with more than just knobs or switches, search for Super Flower SF-609 or Akasa Fan Control Pro (I think that's what Akasa calls it). 1.5A per channel PLUS RPM and temp monitoring.
I use Scythe Flexes, but I want to try San Aces.
my san aces killed my kaze master.
1 per channel too.. LOL....
san aces require shrouds, or your not gonna get anywhere near the promised numbers.
San aces on shrouds and its game over for the fan side.
There are no 120mm fans that could keep up with a san ace in noise / static pressure when there on shrouds.
Which S-Flex's?Quote:
Originally Posted by *|T2D|*PopovS
1600rpm ones, F- I believe
+1 for the Rheobus Extreme. Love mine. I run 2x Ultra High Speed Panaflos off of channel #1 without any problems. While it is rated for the load, I didn't want to push it, so the third is on the second channel (all three on my radiator, just got an MCR320 for father's day), but it should handle all three (they're 7.8W/ea).
OK, those I have myself and they are .2A each so your looking at 4.8W for both. Any controller that can handle 1A per channel should work well for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by *|T2D|*PopovS
For every person I heard say how "great" the San Ace's are, I've heard an equal number of ppl say they aren't so great. They don't dispute the airflow but rather the noise, it seems rather inconsistent when under volting them. Some get grinding noise while others get clicks.
I've got major clickage on my sanaces under 60% speed.... it sucks because I would like them to be 45-50%
I get the scrapping grinding noise on one of my 3 san aces. Not sure why...prob just a bad lemonQuote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Was happily running 3 san aces (0.52A each) and a Zalman LED red off a Kaze Master (1 per channel) and all was well until I noticed a plastic smell and found the front panel of the KM to be hot.
The San Aces were undervolted to 1300rpm, about 1/2 of the 2600rpm they can pull at full power...that means (I think) about 0.78A was "absorbed" by the KM and hence, starting to burn it out.
The lack of any heatsinks (eg, those on the Sunbeams) probably caused the overheat and I'm sure its not good for any extended use so I switched them to a normal 20W per channel Sunbeam Rheobus. The sinks on it gets slightly warm running all the 4 fans at 7V but otherwise hums along happily.
Ironically, the KM is now powering the 4 intake/exhaust fans on the rig, which are quiet anyway, and 2 of the temp sensors are monitoring itself and the Sunbeam Rheobus!
KM is a fantasic controller in terms of looks and features. But fails horribly in dealing with heat...just because it doesn't short out at 1A per channel, doesn't mean it can deal with the heat of running 1A per channel.
Am I right to say that that less I undervolt, the less heat is generated by the KM?
Interesting, switch8 had the same problem with some ultra kaze 3000, just one per channel was playing up.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
I have scythe UK 3000, one on each channel, its been runing like this for months and no problem at all :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by twwen2
Yep, the less you undervolt, the less heat dissipation the components need to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Navanod
How much are the UKs undervolted? I think that's the deciding factor, minus the lemons that some of the early adopters gotQuote:
Originally Posted by Blizzy
thanks for confirming that. I'm seriously considering slapping some small ram heatsinks to the Kaze master...I think the 4 black rectangular thingies next to the fan headers get pretty hot, but I was just wondering if anyone had any luck cooling other parts since the entire panel got pretty hot in my caseQuote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
That is interesting. I was under impression that San Aces are particularly good for under-volting (no clicks and etc.) So it seems is not guaranteed....
Myself I played with NZXT LX controller to under-volt Shythe Flex 1600rpm, Koolance 2600rpm, some YLs and GELID Wing fans all are with great success in terms of additional noise. Although I had only one fan per channel.
My PC stays on 24/7Quote:
Originally Posted by Navanod
All UKs are undervolted to reach 1000~1200rpm most of the day, when im playing, iŽll raise them up to 2000rpm. But most of the time, it stays at 1000~1200rpm
how many watts do the yate loon mediums/highs put out?
Slightly off topic but.....does anyone know where the San Aces are in stock?
shroud them.Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
then the noise will go down to about 45-50% mark while keeping a higher static on them.
i said this many many times... san aces need shrouds.
love my sunbeam rheobus :up:
san ace's need the bearing lubed every so often and the noise should go away :up:
does crystalfontz have software logging like the koolance one?
I think I'm really OT'ing but just to update on how the Kaze master's doing...
With the following 4 fans (1 on each channel)
02 x 0.15A
02 x 0.3A
and without any undervolting, temp went up from 29C to 41C within 15 mins and more or less stayed there. The temp sensor is inserted here:
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/a...6/backkaze.jpg
But once the 4 fans were undervolted to 75% rpm, the heat climbed rapidly past 60C and I had to step in to avoid burning it.
I can imagine how hot it was when it was undervolting 3 san aces and a Zalman F3
I then slap some alum and smaller copper sinks on it
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/a...kazeasinks.jpg
Temp falls to 35C without undervolting and about 50C at 75% undervolt.
I also noticed that the central heatsink covering the chip just above the temp sensors pins was warm even when all the fans are off, about 40C even with a decent alum sink on it...thats probably the display panel's heat.
Anyone using a Kaze master or Ace would probably benefit from having some sinks on it, or even a small fan, although thats probably defeating the purpose of undervolting fans to reduce noise, then adding a small noisy fan :shrug: