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Normally, I wouldn't bother asking this but I have some very special requirements and all I can find are fans that cost more than I'm really willing to pay.
What I need is 2 fans that are 120x25, quiet, good on rads (BIP in this case, so 50-60 CFM), open holes (not closed like YL's), and have a max draw of .2A. Is there anything under $10 available? All I'm finding are $12 and up. I think Petra's has spoiled me with their Yate Loons. :ROTF:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185077
Those should suit. They are right on .2a draw though.
Those are 100x25. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by hellcamino
go to newegg.com
set filters 0-10$ , size=120mm
there are tons there...i just tried it..lotsa good choices
Bah, I thought I had the filter set to 120mm...my bad.
Looking around it looks to be a tough order to get a 120mm fan that will push 50-60cfm at under .2a let alone doing it cheaply or quietly. What is special about this project that requires such low power fans?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835186015
That's about the best I see inside your limits but I've never used them.
you know its about a 10 minute dremel job to turn those closed corner yates into open corners right? ;)
nourish the modder inside you :yepp:
I was about to suggest the same as I just did it myself as I ordered them without noticing they were closedQuote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
The yates are over .2a draw.
but what kind of controller will waterlogged be using?
a)fans draw 20-30% less than their rated current while running.
b) A PWM circuit connected to fans drawing more current than it can handle will just lower the speed of the fans by supplying less current, you can hook up 6 yates to a 1a PWM and they will just run slower at maximum current supply
+1, the first thing I thought of after reading your requirementsQuote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
That's what the manufacturer rates them at MAX draw. I've seen tests that show them using considerably less at max speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by hellcamino
Axis
yate loons also have open as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
I think the jab-tech yate open yates are fairly quiet. Max draw .2... hmm.. not sure. my blue led 88cfm yates are at .3
I think it was vapor who wrote that the fans don't come close to their rating.
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/4134/dscf0886cl7.jpg
I just got my yates and had to mod them to open chamber I used vice grips to break the chamber and dremeled out the rest
if you run them at a very low voltage then they will hit the specified current
Zalman F3s with the included resistor? :shrug:
(or without the included resistor...without is a little too fast for your 50-60CFM range, but with is below that IIRC).
I have 5 x Scythe S-FLEX SFF21E with no controller, They are not loud but if you get close you can hear them.
They are 49cfm and 24ish db 3x on a swifttech works great for me
might want to go with the Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F with a fan controller.
It's 2-3 mins. if you just crush 'em with a pair of pliers ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
id go with zalmans WL.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0935.jpg
Sharkoon Golfballs would be a very close second.
Hmm, kind of forgot about the Egg. Took a preliminary look and there might be a few that might work. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondacity
Yeah, I opened up a pair 20mm thick Yates recently to put on my TRUE, that's not really the problem. I'd just like to avoid the extra 2 minutes worth of work if possible. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
:yepp: All my Yates are saying .3A on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by hellcamino
I was wondering if anyone would ask this. This is what I plan on using to control the fans, completely autonomous. I also have a Super Flower SF-610 that will be monitoring RPM's among other things.Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
Well, a little faster isn't going to hurt anything really, I just wanted to make sure the fans would hit the sweet spot on the BIP. Probably should have worded that better in the OP. From what I can tell, they have a max draw of .35A, I'm guessing that would be startup @ 12V.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
I've always been curious how well those worked but, @ ~$19 per fan...I'm sorry to say, I'll stay curious. I'd get more S-Flex before I get those.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
ok, so that mini controller is definitely a PWm circuit, the question is how much does it alter the fan? you might even be better off going with yate high speeds depending on how much it throttles the fan... this is gonna take some testing on your end to truly decipher.
the question is what do yate loon mediums spin at (rpm) when @ .2a supply current and what do yate loon Highs spin at when @.2a supply.....
EDIT: retested....seems the mA setting on my DMM adds a bit of resistance and was hurting numbers...:(
Changed to the unrestricted 10A setting (less precise) and got .36A startup and .25A running. Both are past the .21A max of that controller. :(
With the resistor (found 1!): .13-.14A startup and .11A running :)
S-Flex series has circuitry to retard the startup load it seems....S-Flex E climbs from .03A to .10A in the first second and then settles down to .08A.
S-Flex F goes from .04 -> .14ish -> .10A :)
Timing could not have been better with this information, Thanx Vapor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
I am planning (4) S-Flex F fans on one cannel with my Aquaero and the channel constraint is 10W MAX. The 4 fans would be 9.6W and I thought the extra transient surge would put them over 10W.
A circuit to retard startup load is not new to me, I know some of my power tools like my router does this to help control torque on startup.
You know what?..I've got 2 YL SH's here that I was going to use on this rig until I came up with this idea. I'll test them out and see what they run at. Setting up my YL's like the F3's will save me at least $20 which I could really use right now. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
From what I can tell by one of Newegg's pics, the F3 uses a 1/4watt, 56 ohmħ5% resistor, can someone confirm this?
Well, looks like choking the YL's may not be such a good idea considering the numbers I just got. For a starter load of .2A, it'll have to run @ 6.41V. After startup, it settled down to .11A. At 12V, it jumped to .33A-.34A then settling down to .2A. Looks like YL are pigs at startup.
Best fans I ever tested for noise vs air-flow on radiators was the Scythe S-Flex F, and fit them to a resistance (ie. not PWM) based fan controller.
The Sharkoon Golfballs I found to be quite noisy for the performance they offered in comparison.
I'll see if I can dig up some of my old test data, but I distinctly recall the Scythe SFF's pretty much owning the stage at every level up to their peak rated voltage.
Here's some data graphs of the Scythe SFF's vs the Sharkoon Golfball's vs the Yate-Loons
Scythe SFF
http://www.employees.org/~slf/curves...lex-sff21f.png
Sharkoon SE2000
http://www.employees.org/~slf/curves...oon-se2000.png
YateLoon
http://www.employees.org/~slf/curves...-d12sl12-c.png
^^^^ Hey Cathar! Hows things?
WOW, nice to see you back Cathar! :up:
I QUIT....My eyes are starting to bleed and my brain is turning to mush from looking at so many different fans and trying to sort all the BS. I think I'm just gonna break the piggy bank and go with the S-FF's. I've got S-FG's in an air cooled rig and I'm more than happy with them and expect I'll be just as happy with the "F's".
Sorry for the resurrection guys but I still need a bit of help for this setup because I kinda got boned on the one I had in mind.
This setup was supposed to have a Super Flower SF610 in one of the 5.25" bays to display temps, RPM's and other system info...well, it turns out the SF610 doesn't like Ubuntu (or Ubuntu doesn't like the SF610 :shrug:). No big deal I thought, I'll just pick up something else that caught my eye a while ago. So I got one of these on Sat as it had everything I really needed, temps and RPM monitoring. Well, it seems the description isn't entirely accurate, if the fans dip below 1000 RPM's, the bloody thing starts screaming and shows "ERR" on the fan display and that's a serious problem as the S-Flex "F's" run ~630 RPM @ max under volt on the controllers mentioned earlier in this topic (btw, I tested them outside the system and they're awesome, very sensitive).
What I need is something simple (like in the link) that shows temps and fan RPM (but doesn't control the fans) and is cheap ($50 or less). Would prefer a red display but I'll accept anything that doesn't look like dog :banana::banana::banana::banana: at this point. If nothing pops up, I guess I'll have to do without any monitoring at all as I'm 100% set on running these fan mounted controllers....at least for the time being. ;) If they fail me in some manner, I'll probably look at other options at that point.
Scythe Kaze master? Crystalfontz 633?
F3's for the win! Here they cost £4 a pop, Scythe's cost ~£11 a pop! Prefer the performance of the F3's though personally. I can't speak for the yates as I've not had a set myself.
~Bex
Kaze master controls the fan but the fan controller is weak.
I burn mine out and no longer use it for the fan control. Instead i use it for the 4 VFD intigrated temp probes displays. :P
...but they both offer fan control. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG
Actually, I was browsing Cf last night..along with Matrix Orbital. If there's a way to hook up the CFAH2004A-RMI-JT to a SCAB, I might just be interested.;) I'm kinda stupid when it comes to that stuff so I'd need a fair bit of help getting all the right stuff.
I went with the S-Flex "F's" because I was limited by current draw, the F3's exceeded that limit.Quote:
Originally Posted by RCG_Bex
Orbitals require dallas digital temps.
Unless your using the 3 prong digital temps the Oribital is a no go.
I have 3 WL, so i know. :T
i thought the priciple with DC motors is that they only spun as fast as as the current they got.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
So if you didnt have enough current in the controller, it would only cause it to spin slower no?
oh CF has addons?Quote:
Originally Posted by KaptCrunch
this a bit nooby question but what are closed and open corners ?
i found some decent cheap red led fans for me, are those apevia multicolor fans good?
For those interested in what is going to be monitored.
3 fans- 2 S-Flex "F's" on separate channels (1 for each fan controller), and 1 Zalman Fatal1ty FC-ZV9 (actually a bit embarrassed to admit I own this :sofa: but I like the way it looked, works good enough on a 6600LE). Specs are completely unknown for the Zalman. :shrug: I will also be checking a DDC 3.2 RPM's.
Temps- CPU, GPU are certain, I'd like to maybe also do a case temp and possibly a water temp as well.
Edit: I managed to kludge a fuse for my DMM and did several tests on the Zalman. Max reading I got was .46A which would make 5.52W.
Well, Orbitals for me were way over priced so I ruled them out.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
AFAIK, your right....but my fan controllers were only designed to handle 2.5W. The fans automatically spin up to full on startup then drop down to temp controlled, if I were to put fans that pull more than 2.5W, the controller would fry when it would try to under volt that fan because it would be absorbing more power than it was designed to dissipate as heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
OK, new day...new stupid idea. :rofl:
Thanks to NaeKuh and coolmiester I came up with an idea that's crazy enough that it just might work. I currently have in use (in another case) a Kaze Master that the second channel pot is burned out but I'm able to see RPM and temps (I have a simple 3 speed Cooljag fan controller switch controlling RPM's). I was wondering, what if I removed all the pots from the Kaze? Would the unit still work as just a display or would I have to replace the pots with short leads to keep the power flowing? Like this, I can have a clean front panel (knob free) and a nice looking display that'll show everything I need it to. I'll just get a new Kaze to replace the one I'll be hacking. :D
:party::rocker::YIPPIE::bounces::rocker::party:Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
OH YEAH, it works!!! :eek2:
The mad scientist in me wouldn't let me go to bed until I tried this and after a slight mishap with channel 2 on the first attempt:wasntme:, channel 1 works great with no pot. Now I just need to get 2 more Kaze Masters, whip up a new face plate and I'll be set.:rocker:
If anyone's interested, I'll post up a "how to" when I get the new unit for this some time next week. :up:
Yeah for sure, I'm obsessed with reading XS so I will definitely enjoy the howto :up::up::up: XD
OK, dredging this up again, hopefully it'll be safe to post this.
Here is the How to:
Kaze Master conversion < Click it
Hey man that is GREAT :D
the display looks really really good and that fan controller kit seems really handy, did you pick those up at Fcpu? or should I search the net for a store....
Thanks SNiiPE. :up:
AFAIK, FCPU is the only States side retailer. They have 2 versions of 2 different models. They come with and without the 3 pin connectors and 2 different temp ranges (not really far enough apart for my liking). I chose the NMT-3 due to that being the lower range of the 2.
http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html...o.x=11&go.y=13