Hailea HC-500 or HC-1000 Any Good For Water Chilling?

If I'm wanting to cool:

Intel i7 overclocked
nVidia GTX295 full-cover block
nVidia GTX295 full-cover block
X58 Northbridge
X58 Southbridge
X58 MOSFETS/PWM

Will the Hailea HC-500 or HC-1000 do the job?
Why, or why not?
Is there a better option?

Does anyone know what would be the heat generated in watts and what horsepower compressor would be suitable?

Links:
GERMAN
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...capacity-.html
http://www.zockon.de/testlabor/567/H...uachiller.html
ENGLISH
http://translate.google.com/translat...istory_state0=
http://translate.google.com/translat...istory_state0=

hey sorry about not getting back to you, im not sure to be honest. I can't find a price on the 790w version, but it looks like it holds a overclocked q6600 at only 34c or something in which i would say its not worth it. but i wish i could find a chart, like "xxx watts at YY temperature" if you could find something like that it would tell you exactly if its good for you.

Cheers!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nirvana_1911

If I'm wanting to cool:

Intel i7 overclocked
nVidia GTX295 full-cover block
nVidia GTX295 full-cover block
X58 Northbridge
X58 Southbridge
X58 MOSFETS/PWM

Will the Hailea HC-500 or HC-1000 do the job?
Why, or why not?
Is there a better option?

Does anyone know what would be the heat generated in watts and what horsepower compressor would be suitable?

Links:
GERMAN
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...capacity-.html
http://www.zockon.de/testlabor/567/H...uachiller.html
ENGLISH
http://translate.google.com/translat...istory_state0=
http://translate.google.com/translat...istory_state0=

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Answer is ........HC1000 will cool everything in my sig to below 12 degrees C. Beyond that point, condensation raises it's ugly head. HC500 will only bring it down to 20 degrees under full load.

It actually works much better if you turn off all your radiator fans. I now run normal watercooling when doing mundane stuff, CPU temp is 40 degrees C @ 4.2GHz, but turn on the HC1000 when I start gaming and raise the QX9650 to 4.4GHz with temps at 17degrees C.

Hailea thermostat is set to 17 degrees to get this. Whatever you set at the thermostat is what the water chills to.:up:

It's a big sucker though and very load. needs to be in another room or put into an acoustically damped and well ventilated enclosure.

Hope this helps:up::up::up::up:

Putting the same Chiller into a Rampage 2 Extreme, Core I7 extreme, Tri GTX280 ( all watercooled ) system next week and confidently expect to see the same results. Dual 4870X2's actually produce more heat then Tri GTX280's :down:

Edit:- I tried the HC150 and it cooled the water down only 5 degrees, so do not waste your money on anything less that the HC500. This is a minimum standard if you are cooling big Graphics horsepower.

I previously used phasechange cooling but wanted a system that does not play up every second day due to condensation issues. this setup lets your precisely adjust temps to suit your heat load without the hassle of worrying about condensation screwing up your hardware.:up:

HC-500A review

Despite lots of guys at XS don't like Hailea's because in terms of xtreme chillers because they hardly can go subzero, the Hailea's are still fun toys for cooling your hardware better then a few big radiators ever could do. Even the HC500 should be enough for your needs.

Markost: How much temperature gain do you get when you turn on the chiller? (cpu temp)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ownage

HC-500A review

Despite lots of guys at XS don't like Hailea's because in terms of xtreme chillers because they hardly can go subzero, the Hailea's are still fun toys for cooling your hardware better then a few big radiators ever could do. Even the HC500 should be enough for your needs.

Markost: How much temperature gain do you get when you turn on the chiller? (cpu temp)

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Normal watercooling gave me 40 degrees C CPU temp ( idle 4.2GHZ ) at 24 degrees ambient. All temps measured via "Core Temp" 0.99.3

HC1000 cools it down to whatever I set on the Chillers display regardless of overclock ( currently 4.4GHz ) and that's with both video cards at the same temp ( again at idle ).

If I set the chiller to 17 degrees, my CPU temp at idle is 17 degrees !..........Prime 95 ( In place large FFT's ) take CPU temps up to 48 - 50 at 4.4 GHz

The HC1000 holds those water temps no problems at all at full load.

I've had my run at extreme temps ( sub zero )....too much hassle. I use my machine for business and it has to be 100% reliable 100% of the time.

Although, a QX9650 at 4.4GHz should gain entry into the lower end of "Xtreme"

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markost

Answer is ........HC1000 will cool everything in my sig to below 12 degrees C. Beyond that point, condensation raises it's ugly head. HC500 will only bring it down to 20 degrees under full load.

It actually works much better if you turn off all your radiator fans. I now run normal watercooling when doing mundane stuff, CPU temp is 40 degrees C @ 4.2GHz, but turn on the HC1000 when I start gaming and raise the QX9650 to 4.4GHz with temps at 17degrees C.

Hailea thermostat is set to 17 degrees to get this. Whatever you set at the thermostat is what the water chills to.:up:

It's a big sucker though and very load. needs to be in another room or put into an acoustically damped and well ventilated enclosure.

Hope this helps:up::up::up::up:

Putting the same Chiller into a Rampage 2 Extreme, Core I7 extreme, Tri GTX280 ( all watercooled ) system next week and confidently expect to see the same results. Dual 4870X2's actually produce more heat then Tri GTX280's :down:

Edit:- I tried the HC150 and it cooled the water down only 5 degrees, so do not waste your money on anything less that the HC500. This is a minimum standard if you are cooling big Graphics horsepower.

I previously used phasechange cooling but wanted a system that does not play up every second day due to condensation issues. this setup lets your precisely adjust temps to suit your heat load without the hassle of worrying about condensation screwing up your hardware.:up:

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Hi there

Finally found someone using Hailea chiller & I've got some questions.:)

I've bought the HC500 after returning the HC1000 unit (initially purchased)after I almost got divorced from my wife after she saw the size of that thing & totally refused to have that in our apartment.

I haven't installed it yet cause I'm waiting for some fittings. After seeing the flow requirements (2000l/h) for the HC500 chiller & checking pump options + flow restrictions, etc. I still have some doubts:

I'll be cooling my actual parts which are:

Core i7 965 : Swiftech GTZ
Rampage II : Swiftech NB MAX
SLI BFG GTX280HC2O: DD Tieton

For the pump:

The shop which I purchased the chiller from, recommended the following pumps for the chiller instead of my original choice of 2x D5 Brasstop in series:

2x DDC 1+(4.7m 600l/h) assembled in EK Dual Turbo Top

The shop confirmed that their testing with the chiller showed much higher flow with Dual DDC 1plus than with double D5

Other: 1/2 ID Tygon tubing


I've been watercooling for years but this chiller is something new for me so my questions are:

What pump combination have you found to be ehough to push the water through various blocks but mantaining the minimum chiller flow rates to prevent ice formation on the chiller outlet?

Is there any issue in using a normal size res (Koolance 200mm)? I know some people recommend to use a 30 litre res in order to have enough cool water to be able to switch off the chiller for some time, but at this moment I'm not ready to convince my wife to add yet another huge ugly piece of plastic in our house.

Is it necessary to insulate the tubes to/from the chiller? At what temperature delta have you seen condensation?

Any quality problems with the Hailea chiller during your use period?


Thanks

the question of insulation is easy.... if you want condensation, dont insulate. lol

if your looking to chill below ambient, you will always get some sort of condensation. :fact: ,unless there is 0% humidity in your room, witch it isnt, :)

Rodriguez, please dont take any offense to my prevous post...

i was just trying to make sure you understand about when condensation happens. for most practical applications, condensation happens when air is in contact with anything that is below its dew point. the higher the humidity in the air, the closer to ambient condensation will happen.

for example, if you have air at 100% humidity, condensation will happen within a few degrees colder than the air.

if your air is at 0% humidity, witch is almost impossible in your house, condensation might happen, but only at very cold temps.


i hope this helps in explaining about problems with condensation :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rodriguez

Hi there

Is there any issue in using a normal size res (Koolance 200mm)? I know some people recommend to use a 30 litre res in order to have enough cool water to be able to switch off the chiller for some time, but at this moment I'm not ready to convince my wife to add yet another huge ugly piece of plastic in our house.

Is it necessary to insulate the tubes to/from the chiller? At what temperature delta have you seen condensation?

Any quality problems with the Hailea chiller during your use period?


Thanks

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I'm actually putting the chiller outside my house and running a couple of insulated hoses through the wall into a holding tank ( approx 80 litres ) and then into the machine. I'll have a Laing DCC1 pump on the Computer side of the holding tank and a larger volume pump on the Hailea side of the tank to bring the flow rate closer to manufacturer specs. Should be about a week away till it is all done. Will post back with results and photo's when it is all done.:up:

Making the holding tank out of 19mm clear acrylic. Using the tank will allow to have higher volume/flow rate for the Chiller but keep lower rates for the components to minimise the chance of leakage.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skycrane

Rodriguez, please dont take any offense to my prevous post...

i was just trying to make sure you understand about when condensation happens. for most practical applications, condensation happens when air is in contact with anything that is below its dew point. the higher the humidity in the air, the closer to ambient condensation will happen.

for example, if you have air at 100% humidity, condensation will happen within a few degrees colder than the air.

if your air is at 0% humidity, witch is almost impossible in your house, condensation might happen, but only at very cold temps.


i hope this helps in explaining about problems with condensation :)

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No offense at all but also no new enlightment on condensation :)

I'm fully aware of how condensation forms but I was asking for a general view on real world application with this chiller & ambient temp, cause I've got 5 meters of tube insulation which I don't really think will be necessary taking into account the chiller cooling power & the components I will be cooling,

So if my water temps will be around 18-20 Cº & my ambient temp is 24 Cº 35% humidity I don't really think there will be any sort of condensation & I'll skip the insulation.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markost Quote

I'm actually putting the chiller outside my house and running a couple of insulated hoses through the wall into a holding tank ( approx 80 litres ) and then into the machine. I'll have a Laing DCC1 pump on the Computer side of the holding tank and a larger volume pump on the Hailea side of the tank to bring the flow rate closer to manufacturer specs. Should be about a week away till it is all done. Will post back with results and photo's when it is all done.

Making the holding tank out of 19mm clear acrylic. Using the tank will allow to have higher volume/flow rate for the Chiller but keep lower rates for the components to minimise the chance of leakage.

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I've done all the assembly as per the following pics only to find out later on when leak testing that one of the new DDC's 1Plus mounted on EK Dual Turbo Top is dead:mad: I'll have another one on Thursday. I'm still leak testing but with only one pump in operation. Most probably I will have to leak test again with both pumps to see if the higher pressure causes any leaks. I haven't turned on the chiller yet

Something really strange happens, after filling & refilling the loop I left the pump running & the res fill port open, but as soon as I switched off the pump after 30 minutes operation, the res immediatelly overflowed & poured out like 1/2 litre of fluid with high pressure that rose about 20cm up into the air. So q
when I have the pump turned off I cannot open the res or it will overflow.

Most probably it's something really basic that I'm missing out of, but right now I cannot see the reason.

hey, np at all, i just thought you were really new to it, thats all...

btw, nice looking rig youve got.

i am also about to purchase hailea 1000, just for fun. for 24/7 use compressor based cooling solutions are too loud. I looked all over the place and halilea units seem to be half the price of compareble units, are they really that bad?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drifter

i am also about to purchase hailea 1000, just for fun. for 24/7 use compressor based cooling solutions are too loud. I looked all over the place and halilea units seem to be half the price of compareble units, are they really that bad?

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With SLI GTX280 OC 730/1650/2600, Core i7 965 4Ghz, RampageII NBMAX, I'm getting 19-20 Cº with HC500.

The chiller works well, but.... it's very noisy (thinking about late night...), I'm going to replace it with a HC1000 unit & make a ventilated box for it with sound dampening materials.

How loud is the Hailea unit exactly?

Does anyone know what HP compressor or what brand of compressor it uses?

Would a Danfoss 1/3HP NL11F be quieter?

My Hailea 1500 keeps my 50 liter reservoir @ 16`c
So enough cold water for my components in sig.
Got 1 pump from hailea to reservoir and 1 pump from reservoir to pc.
Hope this come in handy.
Under 16`c condensation occurs in summer and that';s something you definatly don't want.
Or you should insulate everything with arcaflex.
Got the hailea in the room next to where my pc stands, sitting next to it is to much noise and to much heat !

Rodrigues, when you say load, what exactly do you mean?
When i tested my TEC chiller i ran prime95 small and furmark stability xtreme test at the same time for 2 hours (and got temps in the 20s cause room temp went up).
19-20 water temps, right?

Justfire,
is 16C the lowest it can handle or is it just the temp you feel comfortable with?
What pump are you using?
have you tried some serious load testing (like i mensioned)?

and how in the world did you get 3 280s to run at 810/1620!!!? i cant get to run a single card t over 783! i tryed 2 (one in my sig and one evga) and 756 seem to be the limit for both(even overvolted to 1.3). luck of the draw? cap mod? what is your secret?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drifter

Rodrigues, when you say load, what exactly do you mean?
When i tested my TEC chiller i ran prime95 small and furmark stability xtreme test at the same time for 2 hours (and got temps in the 20s cause room temp went up).
19-20 water temps, right?

Justfire,
is 16C the lowest it can handle or is it just the temp you feel comfortable with?
What pump are you using?
have you tried some serious load testing (like i mensioned)?

and how in the world did you get 3 280s to run at 810/1620!!!? i cant get to run a single card t over 783! i tryed 2 (one in my sig and one evga) and 756 seem to be the limit for both(even overvolted to 1.3). luck of the draw? cap mod? what is your secret?

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Yeah, water temp goes to 20 Cº even if the temp is set for 17 Cº. This was with Furmark 1600x1200 AAx4 & Prime95 Small FTT running at once. CPU maxes on 45-47 Cº (4Ghz with HT on & vQPI 1.58v) & GPU's at 41 Cº

It clearly shows that that's the limit for the HC500 (or AT 1500) or maybe it's my setup as I'm using a standard Koolance 200mm res & double Laing DDC+ in the same loop, instead of the big reservoir & separate pumps.

But personally I don't feel temps would get any better with this last setup, I think the only benefit (& big one) is that the chiller wouldn't be running constantly.

thx for the info. i'm guessing hc-1000 is the way to go for me (coming in a week or so). i have not found a hailea 1500 anywhere.
also i was looking at some other manufacturers who offer more powerful chillers (aqua medic has a 3hp monstrousity) but the prices are just way out there.
i have one more Q though, the units are said to feature a titanium heat exchanger, does id play well with copper, aluminum, nickel, or i need anti corrosin stuff?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drifter

Justfire,
is 16C the lowest it can handle or is it just the temp you feel comfortable with?
As i said , it's the lowest i can run whole year on (including summer 30-35`c) without condensation
What pump are you using?
2 Swiftech 655 pumps
First loop chiller->reservoir->pump->chiller
Second loop reservoir->pump->cpu->nb->vga1->vga2->vga3->reservoir
have you tried some serious load testing (like i mensioned)?
Load testing ?
I run my system in my signature 24/7 on that settings, with high voltage and high clock enough load for me :)
and how in the world did you get 3 280s to run at 810/1620!!!? i cant get to run a single card t over 783! i tryed 2 (one in my sig and one evga) and 756 seem to be the limit for both(even overvolted to 1.3). luck of the draw? cap mod? what is your secret?
I use D-Tek unisinks on them, with 16'c chilled water, soft v-modded 1.35v
Stressed temps 36`c on the cores, and off course a lot of luck as always.
But i can say i'm very happy with my Hailea, especialy on my qx9650 overclock, definatly worth it :up:

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I answered the questions in bold above.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drifter

thx for the info. i'm guessing hc-1000 is the way to go for me (coming in a week or so). i have not found a hailea 1500 anywhere.
also i was looking at some other manufacturers who offer more powerful chillers (aqua medic has a 3hp monstrousity) but the prices are just way out there.
i have one more Q though, the units are said to feature a titanium heat exchanger, does id play well with copper, aluminum, nickel, or i need anti corrosin stuff?

---

The shop that sells them in europe is Aquatuning.de & they "rename" the model with their own little title on their web:

Hailea HC500 790W= Ultra Titan 1500
Hailea HC1000 1650W= Ultra Titan 2000

That's why you see people use different names for the same thing


I used 4L Fuid XP+ together with 1L demineralized water

Because i got quite a few requests for pictures of my setup, here they are :)
Thumbs are clickable.

The 50 liter reservoir:

PVC

http://bandwidth.se/thumbs/nouser/img070418b815428.jpg

Isolation

http://bandwidth.se/thumbs/nouser/img0708b12f233a11.jpg

Tops with barbs

http://bandwidth.se/thumbs/nouser/img070542a62dcb.jpg

Water and coolant

http://bandwidth.se/thumbs/nouser/img07131ce9c2c5f.jpg

Chiller outside the room

http://bandwidth.se/thumbs/nouser/img0820235bf7427.jpg

Pumps and top of reservoir

http://bandwidth.se/thumbs/nouser/img08231792d0aa2.jpg

My 3 puppy's :D

http://bandwidth.se/thumbs/nouser/img08133fae8226.jpg

My system installed

http://bandwidth.se/thumbs/nouser/img08241df15a7e3.jpg

nice setup. i never saw those WBs, they just WC the core and the rest (vregs, etc) is just cooled by an aircooled heatsink right?
damn, i still cant believe those clocks on the gpu! You lucky bastard :-). I tried over 1.5V for the gpu (same softmod) and still no luck ...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drifter

nice setup. i never saw those WBs, they just WC the core and the rest (vregs, etc) is just cooled by an aircooled heatsink right?
damn, i still cant believe those clocks on the gpu! You lucky bastard :-). I tried over 1.5V for the gpu (same softmod) and still no luck ...

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Get yourself a D-tek set :D
It's the shaderclock that holds overclocks down, and the shaderclock is very sensitive to heat, so good cooling is more important than voltage.
At standard 1.19v i ran my cards 774/1593/1296
At 1.5v i ran my cards 828/1701/1296, but after 5 minutes artifacts apeared, shadercore getting too hot.
So back to 1647 on the shader and thanks to that, max core clock to set is limited at 810.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nirvana_1911

How loud is the Hailea unit exactly?

Does anyone know what HP compressor or what brand of compressor it uses?

Would a Danfoss 1/3HP NL11F be quieter?

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It uses the "highly acclaimed" Hauyi 1/2HP compressor, check this gallery of pics & the google trans. for this dated review

http://66.102.1.100/translate_c?hl=e...Xpn2v114lJ2kLg


I can calculate around 45/48 db when the compressor powers up, but right after it backs down a bit.

Next week I will receive the 1000 unit with 1Hp compressor, surely this unit will cope with the heat load of my components at a setting of 17Cº constant

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rodriguez

It uses the "highly acclaimed" Hauyi 1/2HP compressor, check this gallery of pics & the google trans. for this dated review

http://66.102.1.100/translate_c?hl=e...Xpn2v114lJ2kLg


I can calculate around 45/48 db when the compressor powers up, but right after it backs down a bit.

Next week I will receive the 1000 unit with 1Hp compressor, surely this unit will cope with the heat load of my components at a setting of 17Cº constant

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You'd better invested your money in a large reservoir, my opinion.
Hailea 500 keeps my reservoir at constant 16-17`c,when setup is stressed, 2minutes on, 5 minutes off.
It's just that 5 litre of fluid can't buffer the heat your setup gives.
With a reservoir you have a buffer, warm water mixes with cold, so less to cool.
I guess your hailea 1000 still keeps running and have a hard time cooling the fluid.
Those chillers were made for aquariums with 150-200 ltr water.
Let us know how your Hailea 1000 performs, 1hp is serious chilling :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Justifire

You'd better invested your money in a large reservoir, my opinion.
Hailea 500 keeps my reservoir at constant 16-17`c,when setup is stressed, 2minutes on, 5 minutes off.
It's just that 5 litre of fluid can't buffer the heat your setup gives.
With a reservoir you have a buffer, warm water mixes with cold, so less to cool.
I guess your hailea 1000 still keeps running and have a hard time cooling the fluid.
Those chillers were made for aquariums with 150-200 ltr water.
Let us know how your Hailea 1000 performs, 1hp is serious chilling :)

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I know you are absolutely right about the reservoir & know that it would definately keep a constant flow of cool water to the res & at the same time a separate pump would pull that water through the computer blocks

But....

I'm a married man :) & I cannot just pick up any ugly looking 30 or 50 litre res & stick it in my home office without having a big discussion with my wife. It sounds like a lame excuse but it's the truth.

I'lll keep an eye out for some nice "something" that could be used a a res.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rodriguez

I know you are absolutely right about the reservoir & know that it would definately keep a constant flow of cool water to the res & at the same time a separate pump would pull that water through the computer blocks

But....

I'm a married man :) & I cannot just pick up any ugly looking 30 or 50 litre res & stick it in my home office without having a big discussion with my wife. It sounds like a lame excuse but it's the truth.

I'lll keep an eye out for some nice "something" that could be used a a res.

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I used a 110 mm pvc pipe with an u-turn, mounted to the wall behind my desk, out of the sight.
Might be a posibility for you.
Or make 2 holes in the floor and put your reservoir in the basement :D
I'm still interested in the hailea 1000 results, with some isolation you might be able to set your chiller to -10`c :clap:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Justifire

I used a 110 mm pvc pipe with an u-turn, mounted to the wall behind my desk, out of the sight.
Might be a posibility for you.
Or make 2 holes in the floor and put your reservoir in the basement :D
I'm still interested in the hailea 1000 results, with some isolation you might be able to set your chiller to -10`c :clap:

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Well, I live in an apartment/flat/or whatever you call a house that's on a building, so my "basement" is my neighbour's house underneath :D

I'll get one of my employees to build a box for the chiller to keep it a bit quieter & I'll try to find a nice reservoir that I can stick on top of the box.

I don't think the chiller will cool subzero at all since the minimum temp is 4 Cº, but we shall see...

I have a bunch of self-adhesive Armaflex tubing for the 19 OD Tygon tubes but I don't know if it will do any good unless the actual CPU/NB/VGA blocks get insulation also? if so, how to proceed?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rodriguez

Well, I live in an apartment/flat/or whatever you call a house that's on a building, so my "basement" is my neighbour's house underneath :D

I'll get one of my employees to build a box for the chiller to keep it a bit quieter & I'll try to find a nice reservoir that I can stick on top of the box.

I don't think the chiller will cool subzero at all since the minimum temp is 4 Cº, but we shall see...

I have a bunch of self-adhesive Armaflex tubing for the 19 OD Tygon tubes but I don't know if it will do any good unless the actual CPU/NB/VGA blocks get insulation also? if so, how to proceed?

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Yes, you definatly need to insulate your waterblocks if you go far under ambient temps.
Not so difficult, just buy a plate of thick neopreen/armaflex and cut some layers.
Begin with squares and build up from there to the top of the waterblock, like building a box.
Don't forget to insulate the back of your mobo.
And insulate your videocard as well :)
I have done this in the past (year or 7 ago) when i was using a Mach phase change for my processor and another one for my videocard.
Lot's of work when you want to do it right, enough for me to go with 16`c without insulation :D

Rodriguez, have you received the unit yet ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Justifire

Rodriguez, have you received the unit yet ?

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I have & it's just HUGE, the fan is much louder than the 1500 & of course it cools better, but not by much although I think the oil filter was blocked cause it took longer to reach 12 Cº than the 1500

So I had a techinician come to my house to replace the oil filter, change the R136A coolant with 406 & install fill/drain ports.

Now it keeps the marked temp at full load (Prime95 Small FTT + SLI Furmark at 1240x1024 4xAA) with Core i7 at 4.2Ghz 1.46vCore- 1.56vQPI & GPU's 730/1684/2500

Lowest temp I tried was 10 Cº & it got there after a while, minimum temp alowable is 4 Cº.

I'll have to fill a bit more 406 gas into the chiller cause it still takes too long from startup to desired temp. The technician told me that the extremely powerful fan was keeping the unit from reaching the temps faster, I'm not really knowledgeable on this but what he was saying was that if there was a bit more heat inside the chiller case it would cool much quicker. He suggested lowering the fan speed. We actually blocked the fan from starting & it was true.

Anyways, I'll need to install the chiller really FAAAAR away from me soon or else the noise will drive me nuts, it just makes me feel soo nervous. It's the freaking fan pushing air through the back plastic grill that makes 99% of the noise, when I took out all the covers it made about half the noise.


I'm not sure if a higher flow would be better for keeping temps & of course a big reservoir also.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rodriguez

I have & it's just HUGE, the fan is much louder than the 1500 & of course it cools better, but not by much although I think the oil filter was blocked cause it took longer to reach 12 Cº than the 1500

So I had a techinician come to my house to replace the oil filter, change the R136A coolant with 406 & install fill/drain ports.

Now it keeps the marked temp at full load (Prime95 Small FTT + SLI Furmark at 1240x1024 4xAA) with Core i7 at 4.2Ghz 1.46vCore- 1.56vQPI & GPU's 730/1684/2500

Lowest temp I tried was 10 Cº & it got there after a while, minimum temp alowable is 4 Cº.

I'll have to fill a bit more 406 gas into the chiller cause it still takes too long from startup to desired temp. The technician told me that the extremely powerful fan was keeping the unit from reaching the temps faster, I'm not really knowledgeable on this but what he was saying was that if there was a bit more heat inside the chiller case it would cool much quicker. He suggested lowering the fan speed. We actually blocked the fan from starting & it was true.

Anyways, I'll need to install the chiller really FAAAAR away from me soon or else the noise will drive me nuts, it just makes me feel soo nervous. It's the freaking fan pushing air through the back plastic grill that makes 99% of the noise, when I took out all the covers it made about half the noise.


I'm not sure if a higher flow would be better for keeping temps & of course a big reservoir also.

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Haha, you're on it :D
Refilled with 406, when cold isn't cold enough :up:
Good to see it can handle low temps on full load, something the 1500 has a hard job without a reservoir.
I stil can recommend the reservoir, 80% on time on load hailea is no fun.
As you live in an apartment, dont you have a balcony ?
Sitting right next to the chiller is a NO-GO !!

Is that max oc you get on i7 965 ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Justifire

Haha, you're on it :D
Refilled with 406, when cold isn't cold enough :up:
Good to see it can handle low temps on full load, something the 1500 has a hard job without a reservoir.
I stil can recommend the reservoir, 80% on time on load hailea is no fun.
As you live in an apartment, dont you have a balcony ?
Sitting right next to the chiller is a NO-GO !!

Is that max oc you get on i7 965 ?

---

I have a balcony but I'll ve moving to my new house in 2 months so I will skip making holes in the wall right now.

4.2Ghz is not max at all, it's a medium oc with 1.46v that with load droop goes down to 1.40v. If I enable Loadline with the same voltage I can reach 4.350Ghz, (I have to use those voltages to keep the system stable with 12Gb, if I use only 6Gb I only need about 1.36v for that 4.2) I haven't even tried going higher as I'm not what you would call a "real" overclocker, I just like to have something powerful that can run all games at 30´ res. & I'm not the kind that likes spending weeks testing OC's, I prefer playing & such, after reaching an acceptable power range.



Every now & then I go at it again & try some different settings to reach higher 24/365 OC.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rodriguez

I have a balcony but I'll ve moving to my new house in 2 months so I will skip making holes in the wall right now.

4.2Ghz is not max at all, it's a medium oc with 1.46v that with load droop goes down to 1.40v. If I enable Loadline with the same voltage I can reach 4.350Ghz, (I have to use those voltages to keep the system stable with 12Gb, if I use only 6Gb I only need about 1.36v for that 4.2) I haven't even tried going higher as I'm not what you would call a "real" overclocker, I just like to have something powerful that can run all games at 30´ res. & I'm not the kind that likes spending weeks testing OC's, I prefer playing & such, after reaching an acceptable power range.



Every now & then I go at it again & try some different settings to reach higher 24/365 OC.

---

UPDATE:

I did a 2nd refill (better said: additional fill) of 406 gas in the chiller & now... it runs even better. it goes from 20 Cº to 13 Cº in 5-6 minutes.

I even tried it at 4 Cº but the filter & other pipes inside get full of ice at about 9Cº making a little pond on the floor of the chiller when I switch it off.


I'm very happy with the performance, it keeps everything very cool at the expense of a big power bill & a deaf ear

Hi guys, What about noise about the Hailea HC500 ???

is it really loud like people says ?

Oceanic Aquarium Chillers are very quiet... I have the 1HP version….

Quote:

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Originally Posted by malkiewicz

Oceanic Aquarium Chillers are very quiet... I have the 1HP version….

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Little more detail would be nice. I've been considering a larger acquarium chiller. I don't really want to go sub ambient because I don't want to deal with condensation. but I would like it either at or a little below ambient.

Are the Oceanic chillers the quietest out there or have you looked and are there others. Why 1 HP. What drove you to that?

Yes I've owned a few chillers and Oceanic is by far the quietest on the market (I hardly notice it when the compressor / fan are running)... Note: The exhaust fan blows out allot of heat. You could probably use this as a heater during the winter months... Currently I'm using my 1HP chiller for a 500gal fish tank but I hooked it up to my computer prior to see how it would work... It worked great but I wasn’t using the rated pump so the water started to freeze after a few minutes (I wasn’t about to use my aquarium pump for this test)... Unfortunately I really can’t provide you with allot of data but I was running Prime95 (58C) when I tested this chiller and within minutes the temps started to drop dramatically and I had condensation on the lines after about 2 minutes.. IMO this is not a good option if you’re going to keep it in a small room or office because of the heat… Ooo and this thing weighs about 32kgs (living areas are okay). The lower the HP the quieter the system will be, and I’m sure the ½ HP has plenty of power and it’s designed for continues cooling… Hope this helps a little…

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by malkiewicz

Yes I've owned a few chillers and Oceanic is by far the quietest on the market (I hardly notice it when the compressor / fan are running)... Note: The exhaust fan blows out allot of heat. You could probably use this as a heater during the winter months... Currently I'm using my 1HP chiller for a 500gal fish tank but I hooked it up to my computer prior to see how it would work... It worked great but I wasn’t using the rated pump so the water started to freeze after a few minutes (I wasn’t about to use my aquarium pump for this test)... Unfortunately I really can’t provide you with allot of data but I was running Prime95 (58C) when I tested this chiller and within minutes the temps started to drop dramatically and I had condensation on the lines after about 2 minutes.. IMO this is not a good option if you’re going to keep it in a small room or office because of the heat… Ooo and this thing weighs about 32kgs (living areas are okay). The lower the HP the quieter the system will be, and I’m sure the ½ HP has plenty of power and it’s designed for continues cooling… Hope this helps a little…

---

I'm interested to know which Oceanic 1HP model you are using. the only reason for changing my actual chiller is noise.

Hey, I've just read the review in Custom PC form the Hailea HC-500 and in response thought I'd do some research, so here I am. I see this threads like a year old but didn't want to start up a new post.

I'm reading about condensation being a problem but I don't get it. Surely if the Hailea has a temperature setting on it, can't you just set it to a stable temp above room temp and as the components run hotter the Hailea will just work hard and keep them at that stable temp above room temp?
If this is the case then why does anyone even care about zubzero temps if the Hailia can just keep the component at a set stable temp regardless of how high you clock or how much heat it's producing?

Or have I completely misunderstood; forgive me if so.

Thanks :up:

Hey Gray, you can use the chiller this way too but the point having a chiller is to cool the water at sub-ambient temps.Staying a little above ambient can be done with multiple rads in watercooling. On the other hand condensation does not occur immediately under ambient temp.It depends on temp and humidity.There are calculators for that.For example at 30C ambient and 50% humidity condensation will occur at about 18-19C so you have a gain of 11-12C cooling your water under ambient that is quiet nice i think.

Hope i helped.....

I hear that a Hailea (1/2 hp) HC 500 is able to bring temp of a overclocked cpu + sli videocards + mb waterblock well below ambient temperature
Would a HC 300(1/4 hp) version be enough? after all the hc 500 consumes a lot of energy and if it is not really necessary it would be wasted.
I would have to cool a sr-2 mb , 2 xeon x5650 @4,2 ghz 1.4v, and one or two gtx 480.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Grinchy

I hear that a Hailea (1/2 hp) HC 500 is able to bring temp of a overclocked cpu + sli videocards + mb waterblock well below ambient temperature
Would a HC 300(1/4 hp) version be enough? after all the hc 500 consumes a lot of energy and if it is not really necessary it would be wasted.
I would have to cool a sr-2 mb , 2 xeon x5650 @4,2 ghz 1.4v, and one or two gtx 480.

---

I used to have the HC500 with 965x at 4.4+Evga Classified E759 & GTX280 OC SLI, it could not cope with the load during stress tests with water set to 14 ºC, it slowly rose to 25ºC..26...

I replaced it with HC1000 & changed gas from R134 to R406, now it keeps water temps of 14-15 ºC (set to 14 to avoid condensation) with 975x + Evga Classified + 3way SLI EVGA GTX480 but....

The fan is extremely noisy (unbearable) & the room temp heats up to 30 ºC in less than an hour of running it. AC is required or at least very good ventilation & headphones...

I'm trying to replace the fan with some other type or replace it with 4 smaller ones in grid array

Did you try lowering the water temperature while stressing it? Isn't 4° the minimum?How was the noise of the hc500?
would it be an easy thing to replace fan of the radiator with more silent ones?
How loud is the hc 1000 compared to a gtx 480 at 100% fan?
From what you say it seems that with my load i would at least need hc1000...but there seems to be too many downsides like the fact that it consumes heaps of energy :(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Grinchy

Did you try lowering the water temperature while stressing it? Isn't 4° the minimum?How was the noise of the hc500?
would it be an easy thing to replace fan of the radiator with more silent ones?
How loud is the hc 1000 compared to a gtx 480 at 100% fan?
From what you say it seems that with my load i would at least need hc1000...but there seems to be too many downsides like the fact that it consumes heaps of energy :(

---

Yes, it goes lower & it keeps the temperature (but remember that I changed gas to R406), yes 4ºC is the minimum. As far as I can remember the HC500 was a little quieter overall than the HC1000 (the HC500 had a louder alternating compressor & quieter fan & the HC1000 has a near silent rotary compressor but much louder fan), but the HC500 cannot cope with the temps properly, unless you change the type & load of the gas & use a large reservoir as others have suggested.

The noise it makes can be compared to a hand dryer (like the ones in public wc). Right now I have the chiller in my company's workshop insulating the interior with felt for sound dampening, putting a shroud around the fan to reduce noise & installing a voltage regulator on the fan cables to lower it's speed. I will let you know if it works.

But power consumption of a 1Hp compressor & the power fan is really high...

I also have a Hailea HC-500 but the temps of the cpu isn't that good, but temps of my 2x5850 are good.

[Hardware]
Xeon W3540
Asus Rampage II Extreme
Corsair Dominator 3gb 1866 cl9
2x HD 5850 ,1x EK-fullcoverblok and 1x MCW60-r + Swiftech heatsinks

Hailea>Hydor l30>cpu (XSPC X20 Delta V3)>5850>5850>reservoir

temps
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...200_hailea.jpg

Ambienttemp=22degrees
Humidity=51%
Hailea set temp=14degrees

setup
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...0/Foto0445.jpg
The ddc 1 pump+ reservoir i did't use.

So what could be the problem ,why the temps of the cpu is so much higher?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bullu$

I also have a Hailea HC-500 but the temps of the cpu isn't that good, but temps of my 2x5850 are good.

[Hardware]
Xeon W3540
Asus Rampage II Extreme
Corsair Dominator 3gb 1866 cl9
2x HD 5850 ,1x EK-fullcoverblok and 1x MCW60-r + Swiftech heatsinks

Hailea>Hydor l30>cpu (XSPC X20 Delta V3)>5850>5850>reservoir

temps


Ambienttemp=22degrees
Humidity=51%
Hailea set temp=14degrees

setup

The ddc 1 pump+ reservoir i did't use.

So what could be the problem ,why the temps of the cpu is so much higher?

---

If it's working properly (the CPU block is seated properly), on idle the CPU temp (not core temps) should be the same as water temp 14-15 Cº. But during load the CPU temp will rise & will depend on your chiller's capability & pump speed/flow to cool it.

Your CPU temps OC´d & running Linx are fine for the HC500, did you expect them to be the same as the coolant Cº??

EDIT: with the chillers I'm running Dual DDC 1+ coupled on a EK dual turbo top for good flow

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rodriguez

I used to have the HC500 with 965x at 4.4+Evga Classified E759 & GTX280 OC SLI, it could not cope with the load during stress tests with water set to 14 ºC, it slowly rose to 25ºC..26...

I replaced it with HC1000 & changed gas from R134 to R406, now it keeps water temps of 14-15 ºC (set to 14 to avoid condensation) with 975x + Evga Classified + 3way SLI EVGA GTX480 but....

The fan is extremely noisy (unbearable) & the room temp heats up to 30 ºC in less than an hour of running it. AC is required or at least very good ventilation & headphones...

I'm trying to replace the fan with some other type or replace it with 4 smaller ones in grid array

---

Because u get 25/26C on load!

My idle temp of the cpu never are around 14degrees, more like 25/26 degrees on idle.

Im gonna get a new cpu-block (EK-Supreme HF - Full Copper) maybe that will help

No no, that was the WATER temp not holding the 14 Cº I set it to, it slowly rose past 26 Cº during stress testing CPU & GPU OC'd, the CPU temps were 41/47 Cº that's why I replaced it with the HC1000 unit.

Ok my bad, thought it was your cpu-temps. my haliea temp only have a delta temp of 2degrees up or so then it turns on.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bullu$

Ok my bad, thought it was your cpu-temps. my haliea temp only have a delta temp of 2degrees up or so then it turns on.

---

Yes, that's correct both the HC500 & 1000 have the same delta. The problem with HC500 was that it was running but water temps kept going up, clearly showing that the unit was not capable of disspating the heat during load.

Am currently looking for a chiller for my set-up to cool a 930 i7 and a 480GTX which chiller would be best suited! For a small oc is it worth getting the 1500!
Waterchiller Hailea Ultra Titan 500 (HC300=395Watt cooling capacity
Waterchiller Hailea Ultra Titan 1500 (HC500=790Watt cooling capacity

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bullu$

I also have a Hailea HC-500 but the temps of the cpu isn't that good, but temps of my 2x5850 are good.

[Hardware]
Xeon W3540
Asus Rampage II Extreme
Corsair Dominator 3gb 1866 cl9
2x HD 5850 ,1x EK-fullcoverblok and 1x MCW60-r + Swiftech heatsinks

Hailea>Hydor l30>cpu (XSPC X20 Delta V3)>5850>5850>reservoir

temps
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...200_hailea.jpg

Ambienttemp=22degrees
Humidity=51%
Hailea set temp=14degrees

setup
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...0/Foto0445.jpg
The ddc 1 pump+ reservoir i did't use.

So what could be the problem ,why the temps of the cpu is so much higher?

---

A couple of things:

1. You have suction head which is a big no-no. You will cavitate your impeller and ruin it. Your Hydor L30 intake needs to be level/lower than the output of the chiller if you have it between the chiller and the cpu block. If you relocate it to the input side of the chiller, then it needs to be below the water level of the reservoir. This will also give you better thermal performance because the chilled water goes directly to the cpu and doesn't get heated up by the pump.

2. The Hydor L30 is only rated for 75" of head. Most sites that sell chillers say you get at least 6' (72") of head loss going through a chiller. That leaves you with 3" and you can be sure with all of the vertical elevation, bends, water blocks, tees, etc. you have WAY more than 3" of head.

You have a closed loop system which skews the head loss issue ( you still have a LOT of friction loss), but I would at least put the Hydor down below the output of the Hailea and see if that makes a difference. If not then I would change it out for a couple DDC 3.25's in parr. on the input side of the Hailea.

Also, Hailea recommends 317g/h minimum flow rate for the 500. The Hydor L30 will barely do that at 0 head; you can bet you aren't getting minimum flow rate through it with that pump.

Just my .02

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bro20000

Am currently looking for a chiller for my set-up to cool a 930 i7 and a 480GTX which chiller would be best suited! For a small oc is it worth getting the 1500!
Waterchiller Hailea Ultra Titan 500 (HC300=395Watt cooling capacity
Waterchiller Hailea Ultra Titan 1500 (HC500=790Watt cooling capacity

---

For your setup you definately need the HC1500, from my previous experience with the unit it will be just enough to maintain your temps

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dr_dx

A couple of things:

1. You have suction head which is a big no-no. You will cavitate your impeller and ruin it. Your Hydor L30 intake needs to be level/lower than the output of the chiller if you have it between the chiller and the cpu block. If you relocate it to the input side of the chiller, then it needs to be below the water level of the reservoir. This will also give you better thermal performance because the chilled water goes directly to the cpu and doesn't get heated up by the pump.

2. The Hydor L30 is only rated for 75" of head. Most sites that sell chillers say you get at least 6' (72") of head loss going through a chiller. That leaves you with 3" and you can be sure with all of the vertical elevation, bends, water blocks, tees, etc. you have WAY more than 3" of head.

You have a closed loop system which skews the head loss issue ( you still have a LOT of friction loss), but I would at least put the Hydor down below the output of the Hailea and see if that makes a difference. If not then I would change it out for a couple DDC 3.25's in parr. on the input side of the Hailea.

Also, Hailea recommends 317g/h minimum flow rate for the 500. The Hydor L30 will barely do that at 0 head; you can bet you aren't getting minimum flow rate through it with that pump.

Just my .02

---

Tnx,
Got a EK supreme HF today and I'm gonna change the loop a bit.
So if i'm understand it right,

-ddc355+res. on the inside loop of the Hailea after the cpu-block below the reservoir of the chiller? or reservoir of the ddc-pump? if I should use the hydor pump I should place it below the reservoir of the chiller.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bullu$

Tnx,
Got a EK supreme HF today and I'm gonna change the loop a bit.
So if i'm understand it right,

-ddc355+res. on the inside loop of the Hailea after the cpu-block below the reservoir of the chiller? or reservoir of the ddc-pump? if I should use the hydor pump I should place it below the reservoir of the chiller.

---

Sorry I wasn't very clear. Here is how I would do it:

chiller out>CPU>MB&GPU blocks>sealed and insulated reservoir>Hydor in (inlet below water level of reservoir)>chiller in

The less the elevational differences in the system, the higher the flow rate will be. If you can raise the hailea input/output to the same height as the rest of the system, that would be ideal. The chiller isn't really considered a reservoir because you don't want air in the titanium chamber. I would use a round. dedicated reservoir in a vertical position that can have pipe insulation put over it.

This is how it is now, but it's not ok.
The waterlevel in the res. is going up and down. If I put the pump off, the waterlevel in the res. is almost full.The water in tube from the outlet of the chiller is half emty .

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j2...3540/loop1.jpg

sorry for the bad drawing (got no other software)

Using this pump+res
http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/imag...-ddc-res-l.jpg

With it setup that way (pump on the input side of chiller), put the chiller back down on the floor (or at least get the output lower than the CPU. You are getting trapped air in the loop going to the cpu. You can put the chiller back down like in your original picture.

If that doesn't work,

I would get something like this:
http://www.svc.com/x2opdual.html - to replace your current res & pump (just make sure it is the highest point of your loop)

or this:
http://www.svc.com/br525dbb.html - and put your Hydor between it and the chiller inlet

or this:
http://www.svc.com/ih-res-275.html - with your Hydor (it would be easier to insulate)

The reservoir needs to be the highest part of the loop so the air can collect there.

Guys has anyone recharged the unit with R402 or 404??? I am thinking of doing this for better temps at load and also more time with teh compressor switched off i.e less noise.