SOLVED: EK FC on HD4870 X2 no POST

Hey guys I have researched the issue a bit and found that apparently the EK FC GPU waterblock can cause the HD4870 X2 to not start up...something about the M3 x 6mm screws needing nonmetallic washers to avoid some sort of short circuit.

The problem is I used washers as instructed and still got nothing.

Has anybody else had this problem mounting an EK FC to an HD4870 X2?

I've tried everything I can think of and before I return the lovely blocks I thought I would see what others have done to work around this.

Thanks.

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1343401
Here's a thread with that issue

http://www.overclock.net/ati/388361-...functions.html
And yet another thread this one by an experienced LC modder with the same issue

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/downloa...stallation.pdf
The EK PDF that mentions using the washers

http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/produc...roducts_id=303
And a mention of the issue on the EK site.

It's driving me mad since this is for a client and I am supposed to know what I am doing :D

I have mounted nearly identical blocks on my HD3870 X2s without issue...so I know the routine..or thought I did. What amazes me is that EK would even have a problem like this with their gear.

Thanks in advance.

oh dont say that....I just received mine today and I am currently running my leak test - will probably try and boot it up later tonight. Will let you know if I had any problems. I also just used the stock paper washers.

Did yours ship with washers?

My blocks did not

And thanks it would be nice to know.

I wonder if it has anything to do with the make of the card. I thought ATI made all of them anyway.

yeah mine came with a set of washers.

mine is made by HIS if that helps - I think you are right about ATI making them all reference at the moment.

I just got to resist the urge to shorten my leak test....will keep you updated CD:yepp:

update

It appears that mine is fine - I have booted straight in. however one thing I forgot to mention is that I did not fit one screw on the back. this was due to the washer being to big for the spot it was supposed to go and rather than attach the screw without the washer I just left it off....

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e6...s/DSC00691.jpg

the screw in question is the one just to the left of the right backplate - you can see it pretty well here.

did you put all screws in CD?

Hi CyberDruid,

Sorry to hear about your problem. I have the EK block with a card from Sapphire and no problems (I didnt receive any paper washers and havent used any). I did do a remount after I read about this problem a week ago but it works fine.
I know you would have checked but the screws really flex this board even when hand tightening (this is my first FC so new to me) I made sure that the screws were only as tight as they could be without bending the card. I did notice that the card bent a fair bit by screwing in the screw under the back RAM sinks could this be it?

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q...w_1024x768.jpg

I used MX5 on all the RAM and placed the thermal pad on all components that looked like they might need it.

Hope this helps or you sort it out.

emu

Thanks for making this thread CD, I'm trying to help Syrillian sort this issue out as well. I'll update if we can find a fix.

Thanks a lot guys. I will try again. Maybe I just tightened it too much maybe it's shorting the PCB...maybe I shoulda got DANGER DEN like Naekuh sugested...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

Thanks a lot guys. I will try again. Maybe I just tightened it too much maybe it's shorting the PCB...maybe I shoulda got DANGER DEN like Naekuh sugested...

---

Yea, the DD block looks like crud to me, but I haven't heard of any shorting out stories like this. Functionality and usability > bling.

For real. This may make me a very vocal OPPONENT of EK FC blocks.

From my POV this is a trend among LC MFRs to sell stuff that may have issues. IMO if a MFR finds there is even ONE issue reported the burden is on them to revise, recall, RMA. Not to keep selling stuff that creates problems.

These blocks go on cards that currently cost around $1100 a pair...more than some people's cars cost. SO I AM PISSED beyond belief that EK would let this continue selling these AFTER THEY KNEW.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

Thanks a lot guys. I will try again. Maybe I just tightened it too much maybe it's shorting the PCB...maybe I shoulda got DANGER DEN like Naekuh sugested...

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Yeah I didnt tighten the screws very hard - give that a go and good luck CD - I hope you get them to work properly as personally I think they look a lot better than the DD ones.

Keep us posted:yepp:

I just mounted my nickle block and the last two LEDs are red

anyone know the warning codes for those LEDs ??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iboomalot

I just mounted my nickle block and the last two LEDs are red

anyone know the warning codes for those LEDs ??

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sounds like you are having the same issue as CyberDruid where something is causing the block to short the card.

did you use the paper washers?

edit: I just dont understand how mine can work straight away yet so many are having problems....perhaps CyberDruid is right about EK dropping the ball.

Sorry to hear your problems, this does seem like a design flaw as too many people are experiencing problems. My Koolance 4870X2 block installed perfectly with ZERO bending of the card unlike what I had happen with my EK 3870X2 block.

As you can see if you tighten all the screws, you will bend the crap out of the card.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...ockPics014.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gir92

Yea, the DD block looks like crud to me, but I haven't heard of any shorting out stories like this. Functionality and usability > bling.

---

crud?

Sorry but the machining done on this DD block is better in quality then ANY EK i played with.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0008.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0009.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0010.jpg

CD if possible can you use the stock backplate?


Dammit CD! I was trying to save ya from this.
Your not the first, actually the 6th person i know that had this problem. :down:

3 couldnt fix it, the other 3 could. Good luck bro, i'll ask my 3 friends that fixed it on how they did it. :\

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RealRedRaider

Eddy has probably made revisions to the cards... The one's experiencing problems probably have the older revisions... :shrug:

@NaeKuh.... That DD card is fugly though... I know it doesn't matter to you "Grinchvillans" though...:up:

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it works tho. :rofl:

Not 10% or 50% or even 80%. 100%!!! its gaurentee'd to work. And im 10000000000000000% sure CD isnt a noob installing the card. :rofl:

that is a pwnage itself.

But R3, dont say i didnt tell ya so.

Oh also as you can see almost 0 warpage. CD, email debbie, and bug her for the nickle plated X2 block. Trust me on DD bro. Debbie is awesome, she's like michelle of swiftech to dangerden! :up:

What's wrong with Grinchvillans?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NaeKuh

crud?

Sorry but the machining done on this DD block is better in quality then ANY EK i played with.

---

I believe he meant to say that the aesthetic design does not much appeal to his taste.

How is it acceptable that a FC block BENDS the card? I mean honestly? The blocks are designed for a SINGLE card. Why can't they properly proportion standoffs, washers, whatever to make it a good fit?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AndrewZorn

I believe he meant to say that the aesthetic design does not much appeal to his taste.

How is it acceptable that a FC block BENDS the card? I mean honestly? The blocks are designed for a SINGLE card. Why can't they properly proportion standoffs, washers, whatever to make it a good fit?

---

Yes, my apologies, I should have clarified that. I meant that IMO, the DD block does not look as good as the EK block. But as I also stated in my post, functionality and usability are more important than bling.

EDIT: And QFT to Michelle @ Swiftech, she's awesome. Sent me replacement backplate and screws for my MCW60 free of charge. Now THAT is customer service.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gir92

Yes, my apologies, I should have clarified that. I meant that IMO, the DD block does not look as good as the EK block. But as I also stated in my post, functionality and usability are more important than bling.

EDIT: And QFT to Michelle @ Swiftech, she's awesome. Sent me replacement backplate and screws for my MCW60 free of charge. Now THAT is customer service.

---

ahhh..

okey, that is different. :D

to each his own on looks, but the machine quality is there, i back my reputation on XS on it.

well, knowing CD, and how he has more resources then i do, could easily get it plasma coated and not have to wait on debbie.

Here is the original thread that had this problem in it and Eddy's response.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=198453&page=3
(should be page 3)

Sorry to hear you are having problems, the block looks amazing and gives some good results.

Thanks for all the support guys

I did what everyone told me to an used paper washers on all the M3 x 6mm cap screws and the cards work fine.

In reponse to the question about what the LEDs mean. It's easy to test. Unplug a power lead and watch and LED light. If you plug it back in it still stays lit. The on furthest from the Backplane indicates critical core fault the next one over the powerconnector furthest from the backplane the next LED form that (the middle of 5) Indicates the next power lead over is unpluugged. Not sure about the 4th one but the 5th one I belive indicates a high temp and throttling occurring.

I am still not real happy about the scenario. The blocks cost top dollar. If there is an issue the MFR should do more than post it on their site and alter their PDF. The blocks I received had no washers, no updated PDF...leaving me totally in the dark.

I've done this stuff before...so when things go wrong and I can't fix them I go berserk. Thanks again fro the info.

The blocks are providing excellent temps right now (mid 30C idle mid 40C load) and look fantastic.

i also got this block but mine included paper washers (6 of them) i havent installed it yet but will probably do so today or tomorrow

ps: for all it matters i got the Copper, Acryllic top version

Maybe you should contact EK and just tell them hey this stuff causes problems, fix it. The gaps on the mount holes do look pretty bad :shakes:
Shame to see that from EK, I expect better from them.

I had this same issue with one of my 4870X2's using the Ek fc blocks, one card would boot and one wouldn't. After saying several bad words I started thinking about a safe way to test the card to cooler short. The best way I found was to use a multimeter and test for continuity between the block and power circuit to the card ( back solder points behind PCIe plugs), I initially tested mine and found about 2.2 ohms from block to ground and 5 ohms from power to block on one card and 13k ohms from power ckt to block on the one that worked.

I went one by one through the screws trying to find a single culprit for the short and while I would get fluctuations in resistance continuity was still present, I removed all the short screws and put fiber washers under them ( I didn't get washers with either of my kits). I finally got it solved by removing the scew that goes through the card to brace the I/O plate, once it was removed continuity went to 13k from power ckt to block and it boots.

great to hear you got them up and running CyberDruid :up:

Just out of curiosity was it the washers that was the issue or one of the screws being overtightened?

Washers. I barely tightened the screw in the first place since if you do more than that the card starts to look like snakes on a plane. My usual process is to install all the screws then crisscross them until quite snug then to let off on the perimeter screws until the card is straight again. I usually have the ram/GPU area tight..but this time I loosened each screwand just barely let it tighten since the TIM is doing the job...

Getting great temps and everything is working as I expect it should.

Thanks again.

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/8...spec125bi1.jpg

Thanks - that looks awesome :up:

I wish I had the funds to buy a second :yepp:

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/3...spec065tk3.jpg

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9...spec071tu7.jpg

Slots are real close on the P5E3...going to have to get jiggy with some BP fittings.

CD how about using an aquatuning or koolance bridge in between those cards?

Koolance has 1 space 2 space and 3 space hard mount fittings.

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=400

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...cnt-vd2_p1.jpg

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...cnt-vd2_p0.jpg

and yes you can mount instu, the fitting is rotary.

I use the larger ones: <here i hard piped 2 DDC-2>
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0006.jpg

Here i used them for my HD3870's:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_1148.jpg

Naekuh,

Do you know the ID of the passthrough? Looks kind of skinny to me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IanY

Naekuh,

Do you know the ID of the passthrough? Looks kind of skinny to me.

---

most likely 1/4 like the G1/4 thread.

Its a straight passthough iany.

just installed mine too using the washers from the package and everything works fine.
personally i didnt really have any problems with it
performs as great as it looks too :D

ps: putting a block on this card has increased my case temps a LOT (its a little messy in there maybe thats the reason but who cares? :D )

I'm trying to solve a problem with mine. I've installed the block three times now.

First off I did get the paper washers and also instructions I believe to not over tighten.

The score is that I'm getting lockups. On the second time of removing the block, I was intending to take the card back. I stuck the stock air cooling back on, and put the card back in the machine just to check some stuff and the lockups had gone.

There's so many parameters that I don't know if it's drivers or not. Anyway have stuck the block back on and I'm getting lockups again. Can't make it through 3dmark06 at 750/900. The key thing is that I am hearing that high pitch sound. More intense when 1.25v are going through the card.

I wonder if that's due to the screws being over tightened? I'm going to try and loosen them up a bit. Fun'n'games.

RLM

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hellcamino

I had this same issue with one of my 4870X2's using the Ek fc blocks, one card would boot and one wouldn't. After saying several bad words I started thinking about a safe way to test the card to cooler short. The best way I found was to use a multimeter and test for continuity between the block and power circuit to the card ( back solder points behind PCIe plugs), I initially tested mine and found about 2.2 ohms from block to ground and 5 ohms from power to block on one card and 13k ohms from power ckt to block on the one that worked.

I went one by one through the screws trying to find a single culprit for the short and while I would get fluctuations in resistance continuity was still present, I removed all the short screws and put fiber washers under them ( I didn't get washers with either of my kits). I finally got it solved by removing the scew that goes through the card to brace the I/O plate, once it was removed continuity went to 13k from power ckt to block and it boots.

---

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RLM

I'm trying to solve a problem with mine. I've installed the block three times now.

First off I did get the paper washers and also instructions I believe to not over tighten.

The score is that I'm getting lockups. On the second time of removing the block, I was intending to take the card back. I stuck the stock air cooling back on, and put the card back in the machine just to check some stuff and the lockups had gone.

There's so many parameters that I don't know if it's drivers or not. Anyway have stuck the block back on and I'm getting lockups again. Can't make it through 3dmark06 at 750/900. The key thing is that I am hearing that high pitch sound. More intense when 1.25v are going through the card.

I wonder if that's due to the screws being over tightened? I'm going to try and loosen them up a bit. Fun'n'games.

RLM

---

It's not fun at all and shows that there is a design flaw in the block. Despite it's great looks and great cooling if it shorts out your $550 card you are going to be PISSED.

Try painting the screw heads and part of the thread with nailpolish a few coats to make a dielectric barrier. I think that if the edge of the screw touches the ring of solder on the hole it's bad.

And try taking out that screw highlighted in the quote above yours.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NaeKuh

CD how about using an aquatuning or koolance bridge in between those cards?

Koolance has 1 space 2 space and 3 space hard mount fittings.

and yes you can mount instu, the fitting is rotary.

I use the larger ones: <here i hard piped 2 DDC-2>


Here i used them for my HD3870's:

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Hey Pardner I will look into that. It's clearly the cleanest solution. I am using 3/8ID-1/2OD Feser tubing in this build so once I get all the fittings I'll be set.

I was thinking of using Koolance for compression fittings since they have a larger barb and DD Rotaries since I don't need to advertise the MFR name on every single part I install...unless they pay me.

Hint hint.

Quote:

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Try painting the screw heads and part of the thread with nailpolish a few coats to make a dielectric barrier. I think that if the edge of the screw touches the ring of solder on the hole it's bad.

---

That's a bloody good idea.

I'd like to know, is anyone else hearing a high pitch sound coming from their card? I'm guessing you wouldn't notice with the stock fan on. I tend to get it during loading in between the 3dmark06 benches. I know from experience that sound is ominous. lol.

RLM

A cap? There's like one capacitor :D

EDIT

Doh

There's a mess of caps...I just was not looking at the other side of my card lol.

I betcha that's the sound you are hearing. There are no coils that I can see...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

Hey Pardner I will look into that. It's clearly the cleanest solution. I am using 3/8ID-1/2OD Feser tubing in this build so once I get all the fittings I'll be set.

I was thinking of using Koolance for compression fittings since they have a larger barb and DD Rotaries since I don't need to advertise the MFR name on every single part I install...unless they pay me.

Hint hint.

---

ROFL..

sandpaper and scratch it off, or paint it.

:rofl:

The passthough is a 1 fit, meaning it fits directly on the G1/4.

And the cards rotate so installation isnt as bad since your dropping 2 cards in at the same time and there locked like that.

CD Also Quick Discconects on the GPU line. I dont think your client will care about the reduction flow in his gpu line, expecially when he wont see a noticable hit on temps, and will make YOUR life easier when you need to service it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Giannis86

ps: putting a block on this card has increased my case temps a LOT (its a little messy in there maybe thats the reason but who cares? :D )

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that makes no sense because the full card block should take brunt heat of the card and move it to your radiator. If your case temps went up, that is confusing. Where does your rad exhaust to?

Well you live and learn. The over tightening was the cause of my problems. Running through 3dmark just fine now. It does say on the instructions to use a small amount of force when tightening the screws. Doesn't take much to over do it.

Your

Quote:

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the card starts to look like snakes on a plane

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certainly came to mind when I checked it.

Thanks.

RLM

SWEET. Glad this issue is easily resolved.

Still sucks to have an issue at all.

Those blocks look hella sexy!

Glad you got the problem fixed.

On another Forum where I started a thread like this a guy said he used some electrical tape where he thought the card was (:p:) inappropriately the touching the block and tightened it down as much as he thought it needed.Worked for him. More than one way to fix this issue

Hmm, i have the HD4870 EK full cover block, it didn't come with any washers...:( Let's hope it works when i turn the system on sometime next week...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by twwen2

Hmm, i have the HD4870 EK full cover block, it didn't come with any washers...:( Let's hope it works when i turn the system on sometime next week...

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STOP!

go out to the hardware store and get a pack of nylon washers.

Use Washers and then turn your system on live. Dont mickey mouse the end twwen.

They really should pay attention and make follow up amends. Otherwise, its not being very responsible.

Rushing to market isn't a sustainable strategy over the long run.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IanY

Naekuh,

Do you know the ID of the passthrough? Looks kind of skinny to me.

---

It's 3/8" if I remember correctly. I had someone else ask that before and since I had one laying around I measured it. I am 99% sure it is 3/8" ID.

Utnorris

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Utnorris

It's 3/8" if I remember correctly. I had someone else ask that before and since I had one laying around I measured it. I am 99% sure it is 3/8" ID.

Utnorris

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Thank you very much, UTNorris

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IanY

Rushing to market isn't a sustainable strategy over the long run.

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+1 :up:

Way too much of this going on in the watercooling market lately.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NaeKuh

STOP!

go out to the hardware store and get a pack of nylon washers.

Use Washers and then turn your system on live. Dont mickey mouse the end twwen.

---

Oh man, that means i have to take it off the block, re-do all the thermal paste etc. FFS why didn't EK include them in the first place!? :mad:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by twwen2

Oh man, that means i have to take it off the block, re-do all the thermal paste etc. FFS why didn't EK include them in the first place!? :mad:

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I believe that was just with the inital batch that went out as the block I got yesterday came with the washers plus on the instructions it had in bold the sections on the washers plus on how not to tighten the screws too much - but I agree that more could have been done to take care of everyone who bought one from that first batch.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dangals

I believe that was just with the inital batch that went out as the block I got yesterday came with the washers plus on the instructions it had in bold the sections on the washers plus on how not to tighten the screws too much - but I agree that more could have been done to take care of everyone who bought one from that first batch.

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Hey Dangals, where would i get washers like that in OZ? Bunnings?

twwen2,

Take some posterboard found in any school supplies store (for presentations) or simply use the cardboard at the back of a notebook or legal pad. Cut out a small strip. Use a mechanical pencil or some other sharp object to perforate small holes. Use the screw to enlarge the holes and cut neatly with scissors. Trim it down to a sensible size.

Its a simple Do-it-Yourself. Don't fret. Its a 10 minute job.

Hmm, i think i can handle that...

Mechanical pencil!?...:confused: You mean like a compass or something?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by twwen2

Hey Dangals, where would i get washers like that in OZ? Bunnings?

---

yeah they should have some in their electrical section or most computer shops should have them in their tech department - just ask nicely I am sure they will help you out.

or you can do what IanY said - that seems simple enough:yepp:

Yeah. Something like that. Compass would be perfect.

My point is that you needn't rush out on the internet in frantic search for some silly paper washers.

Fair enough. Thanks for the suggestions guys.:)

This project keeps throwing curve-balls at me. You'll see what i mean when i get the next few updates online...:(

Idea number two. Lazy way.

Take electrical tape. Poke holes. Fit around screws.

Done!

Ha the lazy apart appeals to me, but not the ghetto part. Plus i only have yellow electrical tape atm. :rofl:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NaeKuh

ROFL..
that makes no sense because the full card block should take brunt heat of the card and move it to your radiator. If your case temps went up, that is confusing. Where does your rad exhaust to?

---

actually it does make sense the way i configured it now :P
my plan was to have a tripple loop but all that would never fit in my current case. Hell it wont even fit 2 loops properly..So i set it up in another way temporarily.

Before i had the radiator from the cpu intaking fresh air and exhausting in the case. Surely that contributed for high case temps but even when the cpu was idle the case was very hot. With the side panel off i could feel the warmth easily from about half a meter away, which wasnt the case with my previous gpu)..The 4870x2 was running about 70degrees idle.
Anyway i put the radiator of the gpu loop outside the case (about half a meter away), so it doesnt dump heat in my case. (i didnt have much choise anyway. The rad wouldnt fit anywhere).

This actually seemed to reduce my cpu temps by a few degrees too (even if the cpu rad is intaking fresh air..)(Btw i removed the rear exhaust so that i could route the tubing through it (left the side panel open though). So there isnt much airflow in the case atm..As this is a temporary case i dont really care much about al the mess with the cables in it:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NaeKuh

STOP!

go out to the hardware store and get a pack of nylon washers.

Use Washers and then turn your system on live. Dont mickey mouse the end twwen.

---

I went the mickey mouse way and didnt have any problems. I would suggest that you are better off safe than sorry and get the washers. Wouldnt know where to get it in OZ though I searched my local salvage yard (my study) looking for potential washers and come up empty.

If you find out where to get that stuff let us know.

Glad to hear you got it working CD and it looks AWESOME!!:shocked::D:up::up::up:

@twwen2

No need to take the blockoff the card. All I did was remove one screw at a time...put on a washer and do the next. No biggy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

@twwen2

No need to take the blockoff the card. All I did was remove one screw at a time...put on a washer and do the next. No biggy.

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Yeah i just realised that before. Won't be as hard as i thought. :up:

Done. I used a hole-punch to get some nice circles of red cardboard, then a compass to poke the hole for the screw.

During the process i realised that the stock cooler didn't have any washers, so why would we need them? Can someone explain how a card can be shorted by the screws?

But in the end i thought "better safe than sorry" :p:

trust me.

Your better off doing all the lose corners, so you have a higher chance of successful build, then go DOE and post troubled threads and end up pulling your hair out like CD did.

:rofl:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NaeKuh

trust me.

Your better off doing all the lose corners, so you have a higher chance of successful build, then go DOE and post troubled threads and end up pulling your hair out like CD did.

:rofl:

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True that. I'm hoping the card still lives :p:

Well trouble in little china stock cooler the ram is bad on mine so Iam RMAing it.

No washers with my block but I got it week or two ago


What are the sizes of the screws I want to use nylon

M3x6 is one size for the short ones without the countersunk top ,, i think

Ya... Anyone just think about using A4 paper strengtheners.. the ones they use when filing into Lever Arch folders? You put around the holes?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by [XC] riptide

Ya... Anyone just think about using A4 paper strengtheners.. the ones they use when filing into Lever Arch folders? You put around the holes?

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Not widely used in America lol Yes, I understand what you are referring to.

Don't those have holes that are slightly large? I just checked the perforated holes on an American three-ring binder.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by twwen2

Hey Dangals, where would i get washers like that in OZ? Bunnings?

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Jaycar sell them in packs of 10.

M3 FLAT WHT PK10

RE why does it short out using screws?

Judging from what I've been reading and hearing here and my own musings I think that the stock cooler is sufficiently isolated from the card...it uses spongey TIM pads and the backplate is spaced away from the card. The EK mounts directly..the block is touching a variety of parts that might be somewhat conductive...the PLX IHS for instance. And the screw holes lugs are earthed...so when the screw makes the whole water block earthed it's pretty easy to imagine a fault waiting to happen...Perhaps the reason this is not happening for eveyrone is the way each person cuts and places the TIM pads or tightens the screws...I'dl ike to see a better mounting system than this for sure.

Perhaps some stick on spacers like naked Die CPUS use...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rockqc

Jaycar sell them in packs of 10.

M3 FLAT WHT PK10

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That's good to know. Thanks :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

RE why does it short out using screws?

Judging from what I've been reading and hearing here and my own musings I think that the stock cooler is sufficiently isolated from the card...it uses spongey TIM pads and the backplate is spaced away from the card. The EK mounts directly..the block is touching a variety of parts that might be somewhat conductive...the PLX IHS for instance. And the screw holes lugs are earthed...so when the screw makes the whole water block earthed it's pretty easy to imagine a fault waiting to happen...Perhaps the reason this is not happening for eveyrone is the way each person cuts and places the TIM pads or tightens the screws...I'dl ike to see a better mounting system than this for sure.

Perhaps some stick on spacers like naked Die CPUS use...

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Thanks for the explanation CD, i agree the blocks should have spacers, a bit like a hard-mount. Then we wouldn't bend the card so much.

wow, i was just looking at blocks and like the look of EK nickel, then I saw this thread., I'm glad i waited a while before getting to this part of the build,

Thanks for blazing the trail....

see this is what XS is all about, exposing a flaw, finding the solution and giving the maker a blistering/opps, i mean finding the solution,

thanks guyzzz

lol

I have buttloads of EK parts in all my builds...they have nice stuff.

for those with problems, wouldnt using the stock backplate some the problems?

For those worried about the card bending can put some thicker washers between the block and the card:

http://gallery.me.com/jeffrey_lee/10...12226033470001

It is very much a hard mount for me, perfect contact with no bending of the graphics card, as the card is actually braced by the block, and therefore very rigid. Without the washer, the card still have room to bend towards the block, with only the elasticity of the board keeping it stright and the screws in its place.

It can be a quick-fix for EK as they don't design standoffs into their block, so just throw in a few small washers for their current blocks until it is fixed in the future.

care to give the exact thickness of those?:D

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Originally Posted by Giannis86

care to give the exact thickness of those?:D

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They came with my old D-Tek Fusion V1 mounting stuffs with a random paper washer... I'd say 2mm? I got a few washers lying around so question of trial and error. :D

I know the black washers you mean. I have a few too...good idea. :up:

Does the EK 4870X2 block incorporate the stock backplate or is the back bare?

The back is bare. The EK uses two L-shaped black anodized alumuinum sinks that are countersunk to receive the longer flat headed screws. These provide the clamping force around the GPUs. There is no way to use the stock backplate...nor would you want to IMO.

not sure if this was answered 100% but with a 550.00 card I don't want to RMA another one.


What is the nylon size of the counter sunk screws???

also who is a good supplier for nylon screws in the USA ??

They are both M3 and try MCMaster Carr I think the length is 8mm on the FH screw.

BTW Another solution was posted on this issue on another forum: use squares of electrical tape over the holes and poke a holes in each square. That's too easy...

just to jump in here i had a similar problem with my 2900xt ek block and now i have a dead 2900xt i got spacers too but the came seprate and there was nothign in the instruction about them !!!

gonna stick a volt meter so see if block si shorting out even tho card is dead
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...2900xts012.jpg

Take of the the WB and put on the stock cooler for starters. That will probably bring back at least a grim grin.

http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.ASP...ring=92492A116

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/ps...54;110=286;M;I

Here are links to the Nylon M3 screws you might want to substitute. I have not tried nylon screws and do not know how strong they are. I'm ordering some to try out.

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Originally Posted by CyberDruid

The back is bare. The EK uses two L-shaped black anodized alumuinum sinks that are countersunk to receive the longer flat headed screws. These provide the clamping force around the GPUs. There is no way to use the stock backplate...nor would you want to IMO.

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Koolance took a different approach and use the stock back plate to secure the block to the front of the card and cool the RAM on the back. I like this approach as it ensures exactly what is supposed to be secure, is secure. My back plate is alway very warm to the touch so something is causing heat on the back of the card.

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Originally Posted by -Acid-

just to jump in here i had a similar problem with my 2900xt ek block and now i have a dead 2900xt i got spacers too but the came seprate and there was nothign in the instruction about them !!!

gonna stick a volt meter so see if block si shorting out even tho card is dead

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Check your block and make sure you didn't tighten the bolts all the way down, bending the card. This has been a major beef of mine with EK and their FC blocks inability to fit a card correctly. An example is below (when tightened the card would fail, back it off and would work):

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y25...ockPics015.jpg

sadly the card was straight and only just finger tight and then quarter turned the ones around core i made sure there were no bends

ragin !!!

here's the link to the build thread
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=203105

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Originally Posted by IanY

Not widely used in America lol Yes, I understand what you are referring to.

Don't those have holes that are slightly large? I just checked the perforated holes on an American three-ring binder.

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Well, not widely used for their intended purpose.


I enjoy placing one on the tip of my nose or perhaps my forehead at work and walking around like nothing is amiss, then acting confused when people give me funny looks.