EK-FC280 GTX owners with high GPU temperatures

Hi

I have to appologize and point out maufacturing/construction fault with some (not all) of the 280 GTX water blocks.

The problem accured because we tried to make lighter water block, so it became "too thin" and when mounting the block it becames more concave on the GPU contact. This causes very high temperatures of the GPU (90-100°C) even when checking of the GPU contact shows good contact.

So if any of users have too high temperatures (90-100°C) please contact your reseller or contact us directly. We will send you immedeatelly new copper base replacement, which will solve problems with high temperatures.

Again we appologize for the problams and ask for understanding. Also we have to point out this problem accured only with these blocks.

Contact us at info(at)ekwaterblocks.com e-mail.

Eddy

Now. This is good service :)
Thanks Eddy :)

CrixD - Rasmus W Pedersen [The guy with all the Maximus " Formula questions lol :p]

thanks for the heads up

what's the thickness difference between the original and revised plates ?

Well I bought a new block last week but haven't used it yet - how can I be sure my block isn't affected without testing it and potentially frying my GPU?

I have the snail design with the black screw-on alu piece at the other end.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vertigo1

Well I bought a new block last week but haven't used it yet - how can I be sure my block isn't affected without testing it and potentially frying my GPU?

I have the snail design with the black screw-on alu piece at the other end.

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actually just mount it, temps should be lower in idle and the ihs enough to spread the heat to the outer edges :up:

Waow thanks for coming forward with a solution Eddy :) I feel much better about ordering my EK block in September now, hopefully I'll get the new revised plate but if not it's nice to know there's a solution ^^

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vertigo1

Well I bought a new block last week but haven't used it yet - how can I be sure my block isn't affected without testing it and potentially frying my GPU?

I have the snail design with the black screw-on alu piece at the other end.

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In full, your gpu temperature will rise quickly above 90°C on furmark or other game. Iddle temperature are not to hig.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Repliquant67

In full, your gpu temperature will rise quickly above 90°C on furmark or other game. Iddle temperature are not to hig.

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I'd still really rather have a way of checking whether my block is one of the affected ones without mounting it and testing it tbh, especially as there have been a few reports of fried cards on here with this block.

You can't check without testing. The blocks that have an issue become concave when you screw. I had hig temperature with my block but the coper base is flat when I remove the block and check it.

How tight are you supposed to screw it down onto the card out of interest?

You tight at first well the screw around the gpu, and after the other, just enough to have a contact between the mofset or chips with the block. Ever tight in cross.

Ok thanks, just a bit concerned how tightly I should clamp it down, do you tighten the screws a lot, until they become difficult to turn further or not quite that much?

Today arrived my EK Waterblock with backplate. And here some infos:

GTX is working :) and everything is ok :)

Eddy everything is ok - Ek W rulez :)


After 1h work in idle mode: 32 - 35 degrees

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/9618/beztytuuru7.jpg

Photos:

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/7095/dscf0367jz8.jpg http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/3403/dscf0369ca7.jpg

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/7403/dscf0374dw0.jpg http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/7207/dscf0375ea2.jpg

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/6521/dscf0377nh5.jpg http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/3693/dscf0378pc8.jpg

http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/4315/dscf0379qx6.jpg http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/117/dscf0380nb4.jpg

http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/6695/dscf0383ug6.jpg http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/3170/dscf0390rm2.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vertigo1

Ok thanks, just a bit concerned how tightly I should clamp it down, do you tighten the screws a lot, until they become difficult to turn further or not quite that much?

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Yes for the screw around the gpu I tight with strength. The chip is protected by the HIS and you need a good pressure if you want a good cooling. With the other screws, I don't tight a lot because you can bind to much the card and break it.

Hi!!

Today I installed my EK block, and......A picture is worth a thousand words:

http://www.pctunerup.com/up/results/...TempsIDLE0.JPG

This block is amazing!!

26º ambient room, 33-35º in IDLE and 42-44º in 30min COD4 game!!

Pics:

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...u/DSC07952.jpg

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/g...u/DSC07971.jpg

Very good Stuff Eddy!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Malik

Today arrived my EK Waterblock with backplate. And here some infos:

GTX is working :) and everything is ok :)

Eddy everything is ok - Ek W rulez :)
After 1h work in idle mode: 32 - 35 degrees

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SWEET!! That's exactly what I wanted to hear!

+1 for respect eddy :D top man for saying the fault, changing and offering new bottoms to affected water coolers

One sad info

Awesome EK block + Asus Rampage Formula + ...

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/211...80xbackbo2.jpg

= impossible mount on first pcie slot :(

Or am i wrong ?
Maybe someone has this ram block on gtx ?

This is how all companies should act. If they make a mistake admit it and then fix it. Major props for acting responsibly

Eddy_EK is there any sugestion if i have old revision wb gtx280 to not crack it , not bend etc.
any sugestion how to mount it right and dont have to change?

Quote:

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One sad info
Awesome EK block + Asus Rampage Formula + ...

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While I can't confirm Malik, I will say that folks have been using the plain black back plate with success, so if you need that first pci-e slot, probably you should use that instead of the water cooled back plate? I would :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Malik

One sad info

Awesome EK block + Asus Rampage Formula + ...

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/211...80xbackbo2.jpg

= impossible mount on first pcie slot :(

Or am i wrong ?
Maybe someone has this ram block on gtx ?

---

Where did you see that ?
Like I said before, It is working without problem with the maximus formula that have exactly the same pcb than the rampage.
In 1 or 2 weeks, I will check because I have problem with my maximus formula and ordered a rampage. I am waiting the new copper plate from Eddy and maybe a new gtx280 (the card that come from RMA overheat to much : 100°C in game. I don't know if I will wait the new copper plate to test the card with waterblock or send it now to the RMA ...).
HS : Can you give me an advice for the bios of the rampage with the QX9650 ? I don't know wich one is the best with my cpu and I had no response in different forum.

If this ram block have the same size like backplate - that is a problem. Because ram slots are very close :(

Maybe someone have photo with mounted ram block ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RealRedRaider

There are several other companies who produce watercooling gear who need to follow your lead...

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w00t, the people who fried their $600.00 CARD get a new $150.00 block..... :down:

I'd be happier to see companies invest some time in design instead of rushing out products that damage more expensive equipment. If this was any other company they would have been lit on fire on this forum for both causing a problem and then admitting it. Instead they are applauded for frying an unknown amount of peoples cards.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RealRedRaider

Buy eVGA and RMA.... :)

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Thank you for proving my point :clap:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RickCain

w00t, the people who fried their $600.00 CARD get a new $150.00 block..... :down:

I'd be happier to see companies invest some time in design instead of rushing out products that damage more expensive equipment. If this was any other company they would have been lit on fire on this forum for both causing a problem and then admitting it. Instead they are applauded for frying an unknown amount of peoples cards.

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:rolleyes:
Sure, you are this kind of guy that never do error in his life ...
Design a waterblock for video card isn't easy and sometimes there should be something wrong that you don't see at first. Eddy give a response when you send him an e-mail and try to help you. He was honnest and recognize his fault and repare it quickly :up:

I receive the new base this morning. It was very fast. Unfortunatly, I send my gtx280 that heat to much yesteday evening. I should test the waterblock middle of next week if RMA is as fast as the last time.
This base is 1mm thicker than my first one (5mm against 6mm).

Where are you measuring that 5/6mm thickness on the block? Might measure mine before fitting.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vertigo1

Where are you measuring that 5/6mm thickness on the block? Might measure mine before fitting.

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At the level of the holes for the fittings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Repliquant67

:rolleyes:
Sure, you are this kind of guy that never do error in his life ...

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You are missing the point, if this was any other manufacture this board would have pinned them to a cross.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Repliquant67

Design a waterblock for video card isn't easy and sometimes there should be something wrong that you don't see at first.

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It is called QC, not field test on consumers. You almost have to wonder if this block ever bolted to a card prior to pushing it out the door. I am beginning to understand why EK is always first to release a FC block.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RickCain

You are missing the point, if this was any other manufacture this board would have pinned them to a cross.



It is called QC, not field test on consumers. You almost have to wonder if this block ever bolted to a card prior to pushing it out the door. I am beginning to understand why EK is always first to release a FC block.

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I'm sure the block was tested, but this only affects some people, not everyone. In some cases you can use the thinner card with no problem, but sometimes not. EK realized the flaw, and took action to correct it. The fact is, once you pull that stock cooler off your equipment and start putting after market items on, you're taking a risk. We all know the risks associated with our hobby. There are even cases where everyone does everything "right" and still has problems. Maybe you got a barb from the end of a run and the tolerances aren't quite right, and while moving your system around one of the clips pops off (cause you were a cheap SOB and bought the "re-usable" plastic clips), and next thing you know you just dumped your loop on top of your graphics card... whoops. That's the risk you run. Now, when people started saying they were having problems with the block, if Eddy had just said, "tough luck" that would be one thing, but he owned up to a problem with his product and fixed it, and offered to replace everyones for free. This is no different than any other manufacturer that finds a defect in their product (the ones that actually own up to the defect that is). What more do you want from him? He's under no obligation to replace any damaged graphics cards, anymore than he would be if you failed to follow the instructions and installed the card without using any TIM and fried your card.

We will to use your expression, crucify a manufacturer on here for many reasons, but not for the kind of behavior Eddy has demonstrated. Mostly we rip into companies for boneheaded design flaws. Things like using Alu in contact with water and copper, or using steel plugs when they should be brass. Using idiotic thread sizes, mounting pumps incorrectly, making stupid statements, or refusing to reply to e-mails from customers asking various questions. All of these things are areas where the manufacturer should clearly have known better, and has failed to live up to what we would expect of them. Underestimating the amount of flex shaving 1mm off the size of a block would cause, and then offering to replace all the affected blocks is not something to complain about.

Good post orclev - I see your points. :up:

dude, ek make the best fc blocks around, and every company has off-days (remember nvidia 5000 series, ati 2900 series?, early vista x64?, dell 2407wfp-hc).

support from someone who is VISIBLE (like eddy is here on this forum) is difficult to get hold of, but people like OCZ do have great support also (but wont necessarily admit when theyve screwed up)

its commendable, and he is offering to fix it for you.

sure, those people who fried their graphics cards - those are the risks you take whenever you do anythin non-stock - its just the rules of the game, thats all!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drbhatti

sure, those people who fried their graphics cards - those are the risks you take whenever you do anythin non-stock - its just the rules of the game, thats all!

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Your right, hense why there is no EK product in my loop.

It was not really the waterblock from EK that broke the video card but an error from the people that mount it and disassemble it a lot of time.

watercooling is risky business - everyone knows that when they get into it, and you must be prepared for the times when it doesnt quite goto plan..both in terms of leaks etc, and improper contact.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Repliquant67

It was not really the waterblock from EK that broke the video card but an error from the people that mount it and disassemble it a lot of time.

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If it wasn't something with the block why are there THREEdifferent versions of the same block and EK is now willing to replace them?

Still doesn't appear to address the fact you can't use a RAM cooler with the waterblock.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drbhatti

watercooling is risky business - everyone knows that when they get into it, and you must be prepared for the times when it doesnt quite goto plan..both in terms of leaks etc, and improper contact.

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I don't get it...... If a leak happens, yes it is a risky business but to have a recall on a block is something totally different. This is the first time I've seen anything like this.

With the blocks that have an issue, you only have hig temperature (90-100°C). Nothing more. If you follow the instruction of the manual and check your temperature after mounting the block, you don't break your card.

It is not the first time I see problem on waterblock. There was a lot of oxydoreduction problem with block made in aluminium (koolance, apoge gtx ...) and top in acrylic that broke (xpsc for example). Everybody don't admit his fault and replace his product like Eddy do. That's sure.

I have only just stumbled across this thread and the one thing I have to say is wow.

I'm constantly amazed at Eddy's level of customer service, not to mention his quality workmanship. Even if something doesn't turn out correctly, HE comes to US and informs us of a problem (that let's face it, I'm sure some people would not have been too bothered by anyway) and the solution to fixing that problem. Which is what a proper businessmen (and I think I speak for the majority of us when I say that there is not many of them around nowadays) should do.

Bravo :clap: Eddy... You'll always keep me coming back for more 'EK goodness' with this service

Hello to everyone on this forum. I am trying to install EK Latest version of the block (acrylic, coper, thicker than old one) but i still have extreme temps when i am going to 3d. Note that i have check the card and works fine with air!

Any suggestions ?

Eddy you should start stamping your blocks with model and rev number. Good job being responsive. You will probably find clowns who will still rail your for a mistake even when you do the right thing to take care of it. Some customers tend to be a pain regardless.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RickCain

You are missing the point, if this was any other manufacture this board would have pinned them to a cross.

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You are right about this. DD had some of their early 8800GTX blocks leak when they first used delrin in the tops. They replace ALL the tops and contacted customers directly if they had their info to do so just as EK is doing. DD was hated here for it and elsewhere. I has taken me almost a year to get the DD name to just a neutral to mildly positive name here. Do not get me wrong . . .I would NEVER want EK to face the same crap as they do great work and do not deserve it either. I just want people to think twice before they post attacking a vendor. Hold a vendor liable but if they vendor is attempting to fix problems give them credit for doing so.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RealRedRaider

Eddy, you and Vincent are the most STAND-UP manufacturers of watercooling parts in the business right now...:up:

Keep up the good work, lots of us appreciate what you do...:up:

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List the others you work with ;) EK and Bitspower rule . . .but again . . .you do not have to juxtaposition them against others unless you can back it up. Dude you have a tendency to do that which is really not necessary.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RealRedRaider

I beg to differ with you, they are the manufacturers that are addressing their own mistakes directly in a public forum, not through proxy... For that reason, they are truly STAND-UP manufacturers... I am in no way discrediting any other manufacturers, simply stating the one's who are currently addressing their problems directly, not through proxy, in a public forum.

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I guess you have not been around here very long. Other vendors have their own forums where people can go and get direct service. Expecting a vendor to come to a third-party forum and provide customer service is just plain stupid. If they choose to do it then that is fine but to expect it just does not show an understanding of business which I am surprised reading from you of all people. Eddy can probably handle it because his volume is surely way lower than DD or Koolance or Swiftech. Again . . .I do not disagree with your saluting EK and Bitspower . . .just ease off attacking other vendors dude (I can go back and quote some of your other posts if need be . . .). We can all appreciate good service and products without being rabid fan bois who attack any vendor other than our preferred one . . .


I come here of my own accord and try to help people because I give a damn. No one ever asked me to do so. Is this a bad thing? I bet there are quite a few people who think not.

dude the amount of work DB has done for DD.

Simply deserves an applaud. He has kept us up to date on products, and application.

Thanks a lot DB, you for one are a valuable resource to me. :D


okey enough ass kissing.

EK replacing is another sign of conscience in a company. I like to support companies like that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NaeKuh

EK replacing is another sign of conscience in a company. I like to support companies like that.

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AMEN! Sorry to have crapped in the thread in which EK gets deserved praise . . .just trying to ask people to keep it level and play nice.

Swiftech has its own forum, and yet Gabe bothers to come here and address issues and concerns,even though the masses continue to trample on his kindness. Its called being a good CEO. I think Jerm or someone else ought to be around here as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IanY

Swiftech has its own forum, and yet Gabe bothers to come here and address issues and concerns,even though the masses continue to trample on his kindness. Its called being a good CEO. I think Jerm or someone else ought to be around here as well.

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I agree. I have no idea how Gabe deals with all the unnecessary bashing garbage that is directed towards him. Truly an awesome guy.

:up: To EK and all other companies who care about the consumer.

http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/8558/dscf0591iz0.jpg

http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/8652/dscf0593rm0.jpg http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/1924/dscf0595as1.jpg

http://img390.imageshack.us/img390/1630/dscf0598vy8.jpg http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/3046/dscf0600zs4.jpg

Test mode ON:

http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/2070/dscf0602na1.jpg http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/5862/dscf0603yu6.jpg

I know I don't need to water cool the ram chips on the back but that would look so cool!

/me slaps self "Think you idiot THINK! You're going with Acetal >.<"

I received the new gtx280 from rma and tested it today. Still had bad temperature. I tried with or without the ram block and mount several time the waterblocks. Finally, I think I screwed with to much strength around the gpu and one more time broke my card :shrug:
One complete day waste for nothing one more time :shakes:
I believe I will put the waterblocks with the trash and I will used the next gtx280 with stock cooling.
I had 3 8800GTX before with the EK FC8800GTX block and did'nt broke one :down:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Repliquant67

I received the new gtx280 from rma and tested it today. Still had bad temperature. I tried with or without the ram block and mount several time the waterblocks. Finally, I think I screwed with to much strength around the gpu and one more time broke my card :shrug:
One complete day waste for nothing one more time :shakes:
I believe I will put the waterblocks with the trash and I will used the next gtx280 with stock cooling.
I had 3 8800GTX before with the EK FC8800GTX block and did'nt broke one :down:

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You have bad luck with this card :(

Malik, What the hell are you trying to do to my wallet!! It's just screaming to buy the same setup as you have. The Ek GTX280/260 blocks just look amazing, AND options for water cooling both sides.

Lately the nickel plating has really grown on me. I really like the look of your GTX Malik, very nice.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BlueAqua

Malik, What the hell are you trying to do to my wallet!! It's just screaming to buy the same setup as you have. The Ek GTX280/260 blocks just look amazing, AND options for water cooling both sides.

Lately the nickel plating has really grown on me. I really like the look of your GTX Malik, very nice.

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So wait when you see final version ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DarthBeavis

You are right about this. DD had some of their early 8800GTX blocks leak when they first used delrin in the tops. They replace ALL the tops and contacted customers directly if they had their info to do so just as EK is doing. DD was hated here for it and elsewhere. I has taken me almost a year to get the DD name to just a neutral to mildly positive name here. Do not get me wrong . . .I would NEVER want EK to face the same crap as they do great work and do not deserve it either. I just want people to think twice before they post attacking a vendor. Hold a vendor liable but if they vendor is attempting to fix problems give them credit for doing so.

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Vendors should be more wary then, too many products have been released, especially by EK that don't work fully as attended.

The X38 Asus north bridge block, Eddy took measurements of a dyslexic person for crying out loud and released the block that didn't actually fit without modification.

I've had to buy 2 extra parts for my EK reservoirs to stop the vortex effect when the first revision base on it's own was supposed to stop them. Of course he HAS to replace items which are defective. It's nice that he's open about the mistakes and users don't have to struggle to get a replacement, yet you must not forget - consumers have rights.

You can't be putting products out that are cooling expensive hardware without fully testing them.

Yes, I have bad luck with this gtx280 and waterblock. I did'nt check the temperature with the stock cooling. Maybe I receive one more time a card that overheat, but I will not check one more time. I give up the watercooling with this card.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Repliquant67

Yes, I have bad luck with this gtx280 and waterblock. I did'nt check the temperature with the stock cooling. Maybe I receive one more time a card that overheat, but I will not check one more time. I give up the watercooling with this card.

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i have had exactly the same problems....broke 2 GTX280 cards and finally go to air, which works fine till now!

I tried with EK Block rev1, with EK block rev 2 (Eddy send me copper replace) and two GTX280 which worked fine with air. Finnaly broke the two of them (system didn't boot) and now i am working with the third one. The first was Evga, the second and the third was Asus GTX280. Keep in mind that it is my 4th watercooled vga (6800-7800-8800-GTX280) and i broke 2 of 3 GTX280!! Also note that my DD tieton block (yes i had also a DD block for this card) didn't work with asus! (large gap between core and block). Anybody else had trying watercoold an asus gtx280 ?

Yeah I'm awaiting a replacement copper section of the 280 block from Eddy. System works fine but Idle temp in a Q6600 and gtx 280 at stock speeds is 61C on the GPU, I'm not even gonna try to put any load on it. Eddy said he'd send me a replacement over 10 days ago and still nothing though :( still hoping its Monday.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jtace

i have had exactly the same problems....broke 2 GTX280 cards and finally go to air, which works fine till now!

I tried with EK Block rev1, with EK block rev 2 (Eddy send me copper replace) and two GTX280 which worked fine with air. Finnaly broke the two of them (system didn't boot) and now i am working with the third one. The first was Evga, the second and the third was Asus GTX280. Keep in mind that it is my 4th watercooled vga (6800-7800-8800-GTX280) and i broke 2 of 3 GTX280!! Also note that my DD tieton block (yes i had also a DD block for this card) didn't work with asus! (large gap between core and block). Anybody else had trying watercoold an asus gtx280 ?

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I had too 5 watercooled video cards before without problem (6800GT, 7800GTX and 3 8800GTX).
I don't know if the problem come from the video cards or the waterblocks but watercooled this gtx280 is the hell. The problem don't ocure with everybody because there is lot of people that run well with watercooling and gtx :cool:
Asus, like the other trades have the reference card of nvidia, I think.

How exactly are you managing to break these cards? Physically breaking something or just overheating to the point of burn-out?

My GTX 260 OC with vantage - 6 loops :)

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/6942/tempnn4.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Malik

http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/2070/dscf0602na1.jpg

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Do you have any support for that card? That set up must weigh 1kg or more. . .?

And how is that so many people say they break there cards, and there must be a ton of others who never have a problem?

Hi Guys, sorry for not beeing here recently.
The bad temperatures really frustrated me.
We changed the block thickness to make it impossible to bend, but I just found out the most possible explanations for high temperatures.

Check attached image and let me know what you think, as we are not the only manufacturer with the problem...

Its most certainly a plausible explanation Eddy.

For the three dead GTX260s i looked at in this thread the card needed to be bent like a banana for the Voltage Regulators to make contact which i knew wasn't right.

So, what do you need Eddy? A backplate or less pressure on the screws?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LogAn'sRun

Do you have any support for that card? That set up must weigh 1kg or more. . .?

And how is that so many people say they break there cards, and there must be a ton of others who never have a problem?

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There is no problem with weight. GTX works great with this block, i dont have any problem.

It is a possible explanation. There is too the gap between the mofset and the waterblock ...
Something like a back-plate and maybe springs with the screw, like on a cpu waterblock, could be a nice (and safer) thing.
I notice too that we can bind easely the pcb if we tight to much the 3 screws near the gpu on the side of the pci-e because the waterblock have no contact on this side with the card.
T

Rather than open a new thread just thought I'd ask here. I'm about to install a 280 RAM backplate but I'm unsure as to whether I need to put a layer of TIM over the areas that will be in contact with the gpu RAM. Any sugestions?

TIM (non conductive like arctic ceramic, mx1-2...) on the v-ram chips.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by coolmiester

Its most certainly a plausible explanation Eddy.

For the three dead GTX260s i looked at in this thread the card needed to be bent like a banana for the Voltage Regulators to make contact which i knew wasn't right.

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So if we can think we can make a decision that to get low temps it is better to use thermal pads from stock cooler and twist screws gentle

Guys I'm getting close enough here that I'm starting to get a little paranoid about a GTX280 breaking. I know there is risk involved in this, and that if I modify something it's on me if I break it, but I really really wanna try not to do that.

What do you guys say about this? Should we be looking for backplates for these things for support, or should we fabricate one if there is no such thing available? I really don't want to break a 400-500 dollar card. I'll do whatever has to be done to make sure that doesn't happen. I'll even go to a machinist freind of mine if I have to.

I don't mind making things at all, or buying the right stuff. I just wanna mnake sure I do the right thing when I get my 280. I may get this block, or I may get another one, but either way I don't wanna break a card like that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by coolmiester

Its most certainly a plausible explanation Eddy.

For the three dead GTX260s i looked at in this thread the card needed to be bent like a banana for the Voltage Regulators to make contact which i knew wasn't right.

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Hi!
I cant say, perhaps there was too thin thermal pad, or the copper bend after the machinning because if internal forces in the copper.

We can fix that and send you new thicker thermal padas if needed.
I hope everyone checks all contacts before powering the PC.

Eddy

I had a gap of 1mm between the mofset and the waterblock (with thermal pads) with the two bases. Just need to tight a little bit

Eddy, you already do the simple backplate for the memory on the GTX280, why not simply adapt this to serve as a "bracing" plate for the GPU screws? Surely it would just be a case of making it a single solid plate rather than the "U" shape, putting a pad in the middle and providing screw holes for the GPU mounts. The screws which surround the GPU could then pass through this backplate, offering support for the centre section where the GPU is whilst also cooling the RAM a bit like the current one does. This wouldn't be too difficult or expensive, would it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vertigo1

Eddy, you already do the simple backplate for the memory on the GTX280, why not simply adapt this to serve as a "bracing" plate for the GPU screws? Surely it would just be a case of making it a single solid plate rather than the "U" shape, putting a pad in the middle and providing screw holes for the GPU mounts. The screws which surround the GPU could then pass through this backplate, offering support for the centre section where the GPU is whilst also cooling the RAM a bit like the current one does. This wouldn't be too difficult or expensive, would it?

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Hi!

His is an idea.
But we'll have to check if aluminium backplate would not bend.

Please keep us posted - still using my GTX280 with stock aircooling as I'm terrified of fitting the block I have :(

Hello

I write to you because I have one XXX GTX 280 XXX and that me this working to lifted temperatures mu, I have at the moment it with fan working to 55% and because the temperature still is high. Reason why pense to cool it with water. Watching a subject where you wrote it watches and it wanted you helped me with the respective block that I need and then its fitting. It was thinking so much about Block EK of the GPU, the Backside Block and fitting Koolance Nozzles 3/8".

- EK-FC280 GTX SLI - Block for NVIDIA GeForce 260/280 GTX - Nickel
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...9d007f24f453d8

- EK-FC280 GTX Backside Block for NVIDIA GeForce 260/280 GTX - Nickel
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...e55e0d9acdbfcc

- Koolance Nozzles, 3/8" (10mm) G1/4 Threaded
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=21277

The rest where I have the doubt and where I wait for you helps me.

Thanks

I just have to say how impressed with my temps I am on my EK GTX280 FC and RAM block. I am idle at 32c and load about 44c. Completely happy with the quality and performance.

May sound like a fanboi, but it is just completely happy with my purchase and think people should hear from both camps.

Thanks Eddie :up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by turtletrax

I just have to say how impressed with my temps I am on my EK GTX280 FC and RAM block. I am idle at 32c and load about 44c. Completely happy with the quality and performance.

May sound like a fanboi, but it is just completely happy with my purchase and think people should here from both camps.

Thanks Eddie :up:

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When everything work well, sure we could be happy.
I ordered finally an eVGA blackpearl. Expensive, but the block seem to be very well designed.

Well mine is fitted and this is what I'm seeing:

At idle it's sitting at around 15C above the water temp whilst under load (3DMark06) it rises to around 34C above the water temp.

Is this about right or should I be concerned?

Are their revision numbers on these EK GTX 280 Waterblocks? Or is it a hit or miss if one works or not on the GTX 280? My BFG GTX card is coming this week and I already ordered the RAM Back plate (non-water cooled one) and after reading this thread it seems the waterblock is a hit or miss of which one you get or something?

Any progress on this issue please ??

HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

I just purchased the EK nickel and the Black Back Ramplate for my GTX280 SC, I guess i better read this whole thread, i figured that these blocks were rock solid.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by systemviper

HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

I just purchased the EK nickel and the Black Back Ramplate for my GTX280 SC, I guess i better read this whole thread, i figured that these blocks were rock solid.

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Before you put that water block on the video card, fix the manual.
Don't apply thermal paste to NVIO chip (shiny thing next to DVI outputs, just google it and you'll get the picture). Put thermal sticker on it. And don't apply much pressure on the water block. Trust me its better that way.

PS: 60 degrees C under load is a normal temperature for water-cooled video card if 85 degrees is under air cooling. Can be better, but should not be worse. IMHO.

60°C is a little bit hig. At 760mhz I have 50°C more or less.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shinigami84

Before you put that water block on the video card, fix the manual.
Don't apply thermal paste to NVIO chip (shiny thing next to DVI outputs, just google it and you'll get the picture). Put thermal sticker on it. And don't apply much pressure on the water block. Trust me its better that way.

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Providing there's good contact I don't see why you shouldn't use thermal compound as it'd be far superior to a pad.

I have two blocks and no problem with high temps ... but PROBLEM can be in GeForces! not in blocks! First revisions of GTX 280 had a serious bug in temp sensor, ... this is famous 105C GeForce GTX 280 issue. Look at google for "GTX 280 105C problem" ...

PS. I have two blocks but NO backplate, can i buy it separately?

Well....I went to fit the waterblock and backplate today......took the card apart carefully (took a while), then went to install the waterblock.
Two of the holes required for mounting around the gpu were not even drilled in to the block !!

VERY dissapointed and not very happy, especially as it takes so long to take these cards apart.
Block will be RMA'd.

I've only just seen this thread after my unsuccessful attempts to mount my EK280 block without insane temps eventually resulted in me killing the card.

I've now since got a 4870X2 and I wonder if Eddy would allow me to exchange my block and ram plate for a 4870X2 block?

The guy that bought my waterblocks have normal temperature, but he said me that the screws that tight the two waterblocks together was too long ...
My third gtx280 should overheated like my second one (I tested it too with only one waterblock), or maybe I thigted too much the screws around the gpu :shrug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bito

Well....I went to fit the waterblock and backplate today......took the card apart carefully (took a while), then went to install the waterblock.
Two of the holes required for mounting around the gpu were not even drilled in to the block !!

VERY dissapointed and not very happy, especially as it takes so long to take these cards apart.
Block will be RMA'd.

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An update from Eddy today.....he has revised the installation instructions for this waterblock and now recommends the 6 outer screws around the GPU be used, as opposed to 8 in previous instructions.
The block has apparently been revised and does not have the threaded holes anymore.

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/downloa...stallation.pdf

Not sure of benefits, but maybe it resolves the issues others have had with contact of the gpu core etc.

Now fitted and temps. in line with manygar on first page of this thread.....with GTX280 :D

That link is dead, do you have another by any chance?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vertigo1

That link is dead, do you have another by any chance?

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the link is active.
you need an acrobat reader/pdf reader to view it.