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I have a maze 4 with brass top, but I think I'm going to give it to my dad since its all set for my current MB which he will inherit.
What should I get for my new DFI LT x48 board? The new DD MPC-X38/X48 with a brass top? Is there something else I should consider that does not have an acrylic top?
your phobia of acrylic tops is because?
But i love my MPC Universal.
PS. those DD - X38/X48 blocks WILL NOT FIT on your DFI X48.
There ment for intel's board, bonetrail and skulltrail, and braintail... errrr nevermind the last one.
Well then what will fit, the universal with brass top? I'm scared of acrylic because after 2.x years all my acrylic DD tops started to spider where the barbs are threaded in. They didn't leak or anything but I think brass is much safer.Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
Of course the O-rings still crack regardless, so I had to upgrade all of those as well to a better stronger more temp resistant material. I used to like the acrylic look, but now I prefer the brass top look. So much more industrial and tuffer looking.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...181921&page=28Quote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated
here's a mod i did for my X48 :p
i'm making a brass top for this X48 block & the Intel 975X block ..i got 2 of these MoBo's .... but you have to have a DD brass top option for this to work .. i'm replacing the plexi with a brass hold down of the same thickness & gonna bling it up ! Freeck Plexi & it sucks pond scum !
So the DDX48 block does fits with a little drilling for the x48 MB's this DFI MB only has 2 bolts to hold it in place, thinking about going ahead and purchasing it, but I think I will call them tomorrow and see if they have anything pre-made that will fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigslappy
the mcw-30 works wonders for dfi x38/48, my chipset loads at 34C and idles at 30c in a loop with my quad @ 3.9ghz. its the ultimate low restriction block and it performs top notch, just as good as a MPC or other more restrictive block
Big you just confused the OP. Nice. :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated
That is not the DFI X48
The DFI X48 LT looks something like this:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0900.jpg
Unless you want to mod, yeah, your not gonna get that DD X48 block to fit.
So which top are you using? I wasen't confused I liked his mod.
That's a DD block. I have a MCW30 on my NB.
I know it is a MCP DD block but I was wondering which top? Judging the way the entire core is not covered, and I think I see a bend of the far side I'm going to guess it is the universal one?Quote:
Originally Posted by MomijiTMO
I just got off the phone with DangerDen. I need to measure the distance apart of the mounting holes. They said they may be able to drill out a different top piece for me or making something that is designed to fit.
If anyone has the DFI LT X48 and wants to give me a measurement please do so, and I will also measure tonight and confirm the results. Measurement would be from the center of one hole to the other.
the Rampage Formula X48 PCB has 4 holes in it from the stock cooler on this chipset & Asus uses SCREWS not push pins to attach the stock cooler to the back plate , my mod will allow that you can use all FOUR holes in the PCB & Get the block on Squarely with the X48 chipset & tighten them all down with out bending the PCB, useing 3 mm black scew set with barrel nuts & springs to fine tune the pressure ALL from the top of the MoBo
i did all this as I do not like the Idea of the 2 holes chipset blocks they seem to rock back & forth with tubing attd & the fact that the 2 holers have slider slots PLUS that don't fit the chipset squarely
lining the holes up to be drilled is very simple (if u want the thin plexi top as all u do is use the back plack that is stock on the MoBo) , center & Bingo perfect fit... drill an under sized hole in the back plate to remove the collars , & the screws self thread up from the back of the MoBo(no more holding the under knobs while tightening the nuts on top . IF your DFI has a back plate u can do this yer self
I'm modding afew up , of my Brass hold-down plate That will be rounded egded & cornered, & buffed to a mirror finish with X48 ingraved into the top & a small logo of mine
Just order the DD brass option Intel MPC-975X block with the brass option It's only 8.00 bucks more & u get the thin plexi hold down (one in my hand as i speak) & yer go to go !
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigslappy
Makes sense, but the DFI board only has 2 holes so 4 bolt mount is not an option. However I still like the idea of getting a block on there that covers the whole chip, even if having it off angle (no square) does not make too much difference.
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/1236/img0681li7.jpg
This is my LT x48 board.I use a Danger Den MPC x48 with brass top.It fits perfectly.There is no shacking or anything else.I was a tad concerned about the 2 hole also.There is an acylic plate that goes under the board.You attach the screw's to it.Ill flip the board over later if your intrested in seeing it.It aint moving no where.Buy the DD you wont regreat it.
I used a EK for the south bridge.I had to take a dremal to it.To make it work.I all rdy had it from a failed 780I WC.Id love to have the universal danger den for my south bridge but saving for a 4870x2.
The biggest thing I love about the LT is .It is so flat and pretty thick.My evga 780i board was so warped and thin. I couldnt get all the water blocks on it.You can also put your video card in any video card slot.If you run a 2GPU card.Youll be happy.
Ive used Viper John ,EK,and Danger Den.Id rate DD the best.No regret's
I 100% agree with you there. Been using Danger Den since 2004 and would never use anything else.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadguy
the mcw30 is the best and why would u trust dead, hes on an intel MB but has the SB (15W tdp) liquid cooled and isnt using it but instead is using the jmicron controller and he has a gx2 in a 4x slot
and why use the DD its restrictive and ur looking at a 50W TDP max thats not going to need any cooling other than a flat block, with anything other than the mcw30 your going to get higher temps from less flow
What about a maze 4 for the south bridge? I already have one of those with a brass top, I jsut need the mounting piece. I'm thinking to pickup the universal copper block (MCP version) + an extra x48 mount (if you are sure it fits, DD said 6cm apart holes would not line up?!!?)Quote:
Originally Posted by zanzabar
It measured just over 6CM or about 2 and 3/8th inches apart acording to my ruler and board. Does the Souch Bridge really even need cooling? I also found an old zalaman universtal (gold colored one) I could use there (of course then a second video card will not fit in the 16x slot.
is the MC30 better than the MCP? As far as fit?, is the swiftech all copper with delrin top? I'd look into it if I could find a picture of this setup, otherwise I'd rather go with what is known to work plus the DD has a nice brass top vs plastic (although I don't mind delrin).
Just to clarify the X48 top is a perfect fit for the LT x48?
snipe has the mcw30, as well as 2 other people i know with the dfi LT, it fits perfect
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...0&postcount=34
he has better pics some ware
and here is it on petras with the mounting to a 2 hole
http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcchco.html
u only need to cover the center area of the center of the IHS, the p35 and x38/48 are about the same size so its got plenty of coverage
Considering them, of course the advantage is the DD is that I already have a matching Maze4 that might fit on the southbridge.Quote:
Originally Posted by zanzabar
Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
I have the Universal paired with a DD MC-TDX and it looks so sweet!
I also found out DD sells all new Acrylic tops for everything, so now i am going to have 2 new maze 4 universals :up:
DD makes all new acrylic tops, so if you still got good copper you can just by new acrylic.... that is what i just did for 2 universals and a TDX :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated
why would u do that, the SB is 15W with 2.2V, u will only use 1.8V and its about 10-12W then and the stock sink keeps it at like 40c maxQuote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated
Just because it is laying around? The Zalman fits and I have that on it right now for testing purposes, however it blocks my ability to install a second video card.Quote:
Originally Posted by zanzabar
So I hear the MC30 will fit. The DD Universal is verified to fit but not square on the blaock, and I can't tell if the MC30 covers it any better.
I hear the DD X48 will not fit, yet others say it will. Well it can only be one or the other which is it!!!???!
I don't think I'm making any progress....
I was going to get the EK-NB/SB 5 block for my DFI LT x48. I cannot stand the current heatsink. Too bulky.
While I'm thinking of it does anyone have a chart on temp and flowloss of the Maze 4 vs the MPC chipset blocks? I'm only going to have one loop, and I just need to keep the chipset cool enough for 1.6volts.
Thank you Zanzabar.I forgot no 3 way SLI.Had it in the physics slot.Great eye.
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/3473/img0684xh6.jpg
Here is the back with the plate.It isnt going any where.
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/5985/img0683vl2.jpg
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/5616/img0686iq5.jpg
It has two differnt sets of mounting holes.There are four on the outer edge and four closer in.Ive got a spot fan mounted in one of the outer holes.
This is the X48 top right? its funny cause the DD rep told me it Will Not fit with the x48 top.
I was trying to find pictures of the different tops on DD Petras and the like but it appears that the pictures listed for each block are generic and don't show the actual mounting holes for the top.
for example...
http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadenmpchwa.html
1st and second pic are two different tops.
DD's website is not better. I'm also havnig problems buying a universal Brass top block with the extra acrylic mounting piece for the X48 or 975X or both. I can't seem to get any responses for them and this is the only thing holding me back form completing the entire build. Very frustrating. if they are trying to get me to purchased 2 brass tops by making me wait I'll go with the Swiftech flavor cause thats just wrong!
Yeah its the X48.The pic's on the website arnt very good.I dont even think they are a 48.You can barely make out X38 on my pic.They dont make any that say X48.
http://www.dangerden.com/store/produ...&cat=46&page=1
You change the lucite to brass.The mount comes with the x48.You dont have to pick it as an option or at least I didnt.
http://www.dangerden.com/store/produ...&cat=46&page=1
Not sure about the 975 though.Has the brass option but not sure about the back part
Im still looking for something to do with the mosfet.Have a 680i 2 part mosfet.Would like to find something thats made for it
as of yesterday DD listed the Universal for the X48 I ordered a MPC-975X which has that same basic block of the old MPC-X38 & i'm at this moment in my shop adding a brass (same thickness as the plexi ) hold down for both my old X38 & 975X blocks both the 975X & old X38 were ordered with the brass option Soo basicly i'm replacing the plexi hold down that comes with brass option & MFG'ing a brass backing plate with foam insulator for both , with the black screw set from the Vtec V2 pro-mount Soo that I can thread the backing plate to the screws & only have to tighten down the hold down from the top of the MoBo's , making for a very firm & stable block that will NOT bend the PCB ,while also making it an ease to set & remove the block from the MoBo with out having to take the MoBo off the MoBo tray
the rampage formula has 4 holes in the PCB for the X48 but the brass hold can be made for a 2 hole mobo also can be done
Hmm So your changing the acrylic backing plate to a brass one? And replacing the acrylic top mounting piece with a brass one?Quote:
Originally Posted by bigslappy
Well since I'm unsure of the best route to take what I want to buy is a MCP universal block (gauranteed to fit just not centered on the NB) but I also want to add the acrylic top mounting piece for the X38/48. Cause this appears to fit much better on Deadguys pictures.
But I have to call DD to do this and they won't be open until monday.
buy the intel 975X block either all plexi or brass with thin plexi hold down ...Quote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated
drill yer own holes .. use the mobo holes as a guide on cardboard then transfer that guide to a piece of 1/2" hardwood ..drill all the way thru , to make another guide.. test fit both with mobo holes Just to make sure when yer sure it's gonna fit buy a brand new colbalt drill (for the plexi)the size of the holes in mobo & drill the 975X plexi = useing the 1/2" hardwood as a guide this will keep the drill bit from walking on you (drill slow a little at a time or the plexi will start to melt &/or the drill will walk on you .... clamping two places make sure it's really tight before drilling.. triple check yer sizing's to make sure .. the block is bigger than the chip soo there is margin for error . I did 2 brass hold downs today .. 4 actually only two sized up right ..L O L.. am now sanding them down in higher grit till i get up to 1200 then jewlers rouge for the final polish ... stay tuned i up pix when i'm done .. DD might do this for but i dought they will do a Brass hold down .. but they do offer a brass top for the 975X
http://www.dangerden.com/store/produ...&cat=46&page=1
select brass under the lucite drop down setting = top style
the MPC block is the same for all X38,X48,975X ,just the tops are different
... MPC universal ( this is the one i don't like as it does not sit square on the chipset ) either plexi or brass........ any questions feel free to PM
Unfortunately i dont have a workbench where I live, so any drilling I do means holing the item with one hand and drilling with the other :(. Now I could get my friend to help (he has a drillpress and usualy does not mind) but that will cost me $150 in gas to get down to San Diego and back so I guess thats out too... I hear what your saying, I'll probably get 3 tops just to make sure at least one fits or is drillable. I can always slap the universal on temporarily, and next time I'm down in my hometown, maybe I can drill some nice holes using his press.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigslappy
explain all the above & my post also to DD ask for Jeremy (he da boss) .. he just might do it for uQuote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated
send him a link to this thread & he'll see that there is a demand for a non-PLEXI hold down
& that the UNI version of MPC we just don't like it!
these X48 chips get hot & that might be a reason for instabilty
& WE want the best block (his/DD=MPC) but that the hold down sucks !
I know they like feedback soo don't think yer reaming their ass but could they at least look at the problem ... Jeremy is a nice guy & will listen ...
I sent him a link to this thread earlier this week. I'll touch base with him again tomorrow. :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by bigslappy
COOL ...Quote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated
While I made my own plate for the NB, the universal was a perfect fit for the SB. It sounds like the new X48 top is also perfect for the NB, so that's what I would do if I had to do it over again.
Here is mine:
It keeps my NB about 4-5C above ambient (400FSB, 1.34 NB Vcore) which is plenty cool enough and much cooler than my old 680i.
http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/4...iwettedgf8.jpg
Marti, couple questions.
1) Does the South Bridge block still allow you to run X-fire?
2) Is it a good idea to cool the southbridge if I'm only using one loop (NB,SB,CPU,VidCard/s?) in the case to cool everything? I have an old aluminum Zalman Northbridge cooler that I have mounted to mine right now, but it will not allow for a second video card.
If its a good idea to Liquid cool both north and southbridges, then I can go ahead and place my order since I will need two blocks anyways.
3) What are the plans for your the rear black heatsink you modified?
Also what did you use to attach the swiftech style sinks? Thermal epoxy? Tempting but I'm not sure I want to void my warranty just yet.
Thanks for everyones help and suggestions.
EK S/B block is way low profileQuote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated
Really nice looking board Martin.
I can answer these:Quote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated
1. No, expecially with longer cards, you'll run into issues. Remember that last slot isnt 16x. Its an agea Physx slot @ 4x. Putting a card there means reducing performance.
Picture to show you what i mean.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_1093.jpg
2. Use the Enzo with that little fan. Its awesome and enough to keep even 4 raptors on raid in check.
3. Im still trying to talk martin into dropping a 70mm fan like i did. However he said he wanted to watercool it. Kinda pointless since those little microchips infront of the mosfets were ment to take extra heat load from the pwm area.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0934.jpg
But hey what would i know right? i only recomended martin that board. I probably have the most knowledge in h2o section regarding this board, and cooling this board.
:rofl:
There are 2 types of mosfet sinks you can buy.
1. is the uber small enzos. They look like gpu bga sinks but only cut in 4's. So there really small. I like to use those intitally. The others are regular enzos bga sinks.
The tiny enzo's im talking about.
http://www.shoppts.com/enmomohekit.html
http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c..._2006_27150292
However becareful where you place them. Sometimes if you put it somewhere it does not like to be, your board will bug out with - - or c 1
dont ask me why c1. you just get it sometimes.
Is there even a PCI-E 4X Aegia card ? Isn't that like... dead tech, not to mention its now Nvidia's tech? What's it doing on an Intel mobo that cannot support Nvidia SLI (outside of the GX2)?
-Sounds like I'd be best off just using the Zalman heatsink on there which I already have? It's not as nice as that enzo, but i don't want any small loud fans in my build. (or is it silent?). What I mean is if hte waterblock won't fit with a second video card, then I may as well wait until I actualy have a second video card to change it to the Enzo w/ fan. The Zalaman won't allow me to install a second video card either. Now bigslappy mentioned that the EK Universal block is really low profile. Will that waterblock allow me to fit a second video card?Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
Do I really need a 70mm fan? Thats going to be loud... If so how did you attach it?Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
What are you attach them with? If I use thermal epoxy and I get a C 1 error, then I'm kinda screwed.... I have like 2 packs of swiftech heatsinks kicking it. The thermal tape on them does not work at all....
my MCw30 works great on the NB.
DeadGuy, I just got off the phone with Jeremy at DangerDen. He told me that the x48 with brass top will not fit and that the acrylic hold down only has 4 holes not 8 like in your picture. he does no know where the top you got came from, thinking you must have or someone else must have drilled those extra holes in it.
It sounds like my best bet is to buy the MCP universal with a brass top, although it won't cover the entire IHS :( The other option is to buy the x48 brass top and drill my own holes in the acrylic mounting piece, which requires a special acrylic drill bit. Since I need to get this show on the road it looks like I'll settle for the universal MPC.
I'm still not sure what to do with the southbridge. I don't really want to watercool it if it is not necessary since it would add restriction to my loop and make the posibilities of adding a second video card impossible. If someone can verify if the Ek block is low profile enough to clear the video card that would be amazing. For now I think my best bet is the Passive zalaman (this is the one I have on hand) http://www.svc.com/zm-nb32k.html. I have to admit that its tempting to just order 2 Universal MPC and forget about Crossfire (I have an Nvidia card right now anyways)...
pics? Does it cover the entire heat spreader?Quote:
Originally Posted by safan80
Do you have the LT or the UT?Quote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated
If you have the LT, just leave the stock heatsync on the SB! I just got my DFI X48 LT-T2R and on air cooling for everything temps are barely warm to the touch. If you bought the UT and had to remove the whole heat pipe assembly get the enzo low profile block everyone keeps talking about, it should clear your cards just fine. With the current state of cheap video cards, you would be shooting yourself in the foot by blocking those PCI-E x16 ports!
If the mounting holes are the same as the P35 DFI board, do what I did.
DangerDen MCP chipset block (the multi fit one) and turn the top on it upside down, you can then mount it so the barbs are parallel to the PCI/PCI-E slots.
I have the LT, I replaced the stock cooler with the zalman, but thats jsut because I have one card for now, if I get a second card I can put the stock one back on or get the EK block or Enzo w/fan.Quote:
Originally Posted by HaCKs
Now I gotta figure out if I want compression fittings, I didn't realize DD actualy sold these for 7/16ths tubing :)
Yeah from other peoples advice here, and now my own experience water cooling the SB is NOT necessary in the least. My SB is running raided raptors and is warm to the touch with the stock passive heatsync...
Yeah, Naeku got your questions.
I wouldn't bother with the southbridge if you plan to run crossfire. I have an 8800GTX single card I'm running so that slot is useless to me anyway. I already had the chipset block on hand and put it to use simply because I could, not out of need. I don't think you need to run water on the NB either, the stock TR heatsink with a fan would work just fine. I think watercooling this board is not necessary.
The PWM area, I machined out a slot and installed a TR HR-05 to supliment the stock heatsink. It actually works pretty well. I only did this because as I start my CPU waterblock testing, I like having the room to work in there and having a small fan in the way would just irritate me. In this setup, it's all external and clean in the CPU area for easy installation and tightening of the waterblock. Adding a fan like Naeku did would work just as well, I just didn't want that internally so I used the HR-05 and added some memory sized heatsinks to the CPL chips in front of that(Not shown in the pictures).
I added a bunch of the copper mosfet and GPU sized heatsinks anywhere I could register over 40C. There are actually a number of areas on the board including the PWM CPL chips that run hotter than other areas. Most were usually under 50 or 60C, but now with the little copper heatsinks, I've got the entire board below 40 which I like regardless of weather it makes a difference. I just used the supplied sticky thermalpads to install them and used artic cleaner to prep for them. No problems with this so far.
I can't say enough good about the board, it's amazing how solid the CPU Vcore remains between idle and load. My easiest overclock so far...tough board, you could run it stock right out of the box without any problems I'm sure...very high quality components and well built.
[QUOTE=Justintoxicated;3141607]DeadGuy, I just got off the phone with Jeremy at DangerDen. He told me that the x48 with brass top will not fit and that the acrylic hold down only has 4 holes not 8 like in your picture. he does no know where the top you got came from, thinking you must have or someone else must have drilled those extra holes in it.
Sorry about that.It's just like they sent it to me.Havent done a thing to it.I only modded the south bridge one.Guess I cant say any more I never have any good luck.
the enzo sinks i linked to comes with a thermal sticky pad.
so you just peal and apply.
The reason why i said a nb wont work is if you use really long cards. Like HD4870X2. The block is very long, and also has a backplate! <--- that is whats gona kill you.
you can throw one of these guys on if you want then:
http://www.jab-tech.com/Cooljag-Ever...L-pr-4056.html
Max Air Flow 12.13CFM
Static Pressure 1.26mmH2O
Sound Level 22.9dB(A)
Thats more then enough for your mosfets.
just ziptie loop the corners and slip them though the fins on your alu sink.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
I have a new pack of swiftech BGA sinks with stiky pad. Problem is I have never once been able to use the sticky pads, the ramsinks fall off and can cause shorts.
OHHH, no get the enzo's There so much better. Seriously. :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated
the ones i have they always worked good. Infact one worked so good i yanked the resistor off with it. :[
ruined a 100 dollar board. :down:
Ouch, that's gotta hurt. But, now we know! For the greater good, NaeKuh!Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
well if you need to remove it, do it SLOWLY.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeknom
i yanked it off thinkn it would come right off, looked down and went WTF wasnt there something there??? Looked behind the sink.
DOE!!!!
Did that to an 8800GT with thermal epoxy mixed 60/40 and weak mosfet...Maybe heatgun + Swiftechs will do it, I'm on a tight budget since I ran out of money hah.
here's what i came up with = MoBo Rampage Formula Rig = FASTslappy
;p
nice work there slappy. THose fatboy barbs sure are nice huh. I'm really impressed with the ones made for the thermochill. At least so far (I have not installed them and have I have a feeling I may need my heat gun to get the 7/16th over them).
I finaly have all my parts, now it's just finding the time to get it together. And of course I leave on vacation next week but I'll be sure to revive the thread when I get back. Gotta test out this new SLR (e520) and lense some how...
Right now it's all pre-mounted for testing before I apply the expensive TC-0098 grease I picked up (thanks martin for your input on this stuff).
So many projects, so little time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Repeat image on purpose, I love those DD blocks, I think they look so sweet and with my fiezer green it's the bomb, just put those on my blitz.....
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...P8020945-1.jpg
Well, I found a bad Memory slot on the MB. I can not pass Intel CPU Burn with memory in the 3rd slot.
I will need to RMA and take everything back apart! Ayone RMAed with DFI? Should I just but that new Biostard MB that is getting crazy FSB's and ditch the idea of using this DFI?
I need to flash back to origional bios, remove the Swiftech ramsinks (3 not shown in the picture I copied martin as much as possible using stuff I already had). Any suggestions for getting the waterblock tape off the MB and where I can buy a new mount or at least tape for the Fuzion V2?
Thanks for the help in advance.
Hmm RMA this one and maybe go with some cheap mATX board til you get some kind of feed back. Basically with any mobo you test the hell out of it, especially if you have a DFI mobo since they seem to have more lemons than anyone else. Good luck to you!
Ok new update, the board might not be bad. The second memory slot works, however if I use slots 1 & 3 Intel CPU Burn Fails, event hough I already tested the memory chips individualy. the memory is all paired of course and purchased as a kit. I don't know what to do right now...Pretty much done testing until I get this issue straightened out. Maybe Martin or someone else can run the intel cpu burn on this MB and let me know if it passes with memory in the green slots?Quote:
Originally Posted by MomijiTMO