Hybrid SingleStage Watercooling in Lian Li PC-201

Hello guys,

I have built this unit for my friend jcool. In the picture below you can see the main components. You should understand it, although it is written in German. The unit is optimized for high loads and of course it was not easy. The processor will be cooled with the unit and the remaining components should be cooled with water. The case was already prepared for the water cooling. On top of the case was milled a cutting for the heat exchanger. The unit was built into a Lian Li PC-201 case. To get no problems with condensation, it shouldn't cool under -40C. The unit holds various load between -30C and -40C. At this point I would like to thank PhilippF and tim- for the advice as well as LittleDevil, runmc and cold_ice for providing the components. And thank you jcool for being exceptionally patient through the waiting. Enjoy the pictures, I hope you like it!

http://www.fmkonzept.de/images/refri..._201_jcool.jpg


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Beautiful cutting, isn't it?

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Pretty much accessories. :D

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While packing this monster.

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Ready for shipping on Wednesday. The package has a weight of 27 kg. However, it is well packed.

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Great work, I love those pictures man :clap:
Can't wait to get this baby into my hands :cool:
Sure took long enough though ;)

Nice and clean build, i like it.

I love the packing job too, better safe than sorry!

Very nice job!

I'm gonna put a Swiftech MCW320 into the top and cool mobo, GFX and HDDs with my current wc setup - just waiting on a DFI X38 T2R so I can get this baby up and running.
Should make some nice pics when it's finished, I'll be sure to share them with you :)

nice free gift :D

Very well done, DagoDuck!
One question: How loud is that Noctua fan compared to a Silenx Ixtrema 120mm 90 cfm 18dBA? (If you can answer it.)

hey jcool, just a word of caution, one mcr320 probably is not enough to cool the NB, SB and the GPU's if you have more than one. If you are cooling some older cards it will be fine, but judging by the sweet mobo you plan to use, i doubt you will be shamming on the gpus. which do you plan to use btw?

Hi there, don't worry - I'm into wc since 2000 and I know how to design my systems, just had no idea about phase building, that's why DagoDuck helped me out :)
The HW in my sig will be cooled, that's my trusty G80 GTS (single card), 2-4HDDs (they don't emit much heat anyway) and the DFI. All in all, thats about 150W for GPU (thx to voltmod), 50W for mobo and ~30 for HDDs (worst case), resulting in something around 230W. No problem for a triple rad there, I used to cool that stuff + the CPU with a dual and a single rad in my PC7 (just doing that now as we speak) - of course my water temp got up to around 35C, but without the CPU and with having some space for a change it won't hit more than 30-32C which is just fine.

Thank you for your nice postings! The Noctua is already damned quiet. I like this fan. However, I would leave the fan on 12V, because the compressor is louder and so you'll remember no difference. Only in the performance. I wouldn't reduce the speed. You shouldn't forget that in the end the compressor must also be cooled. Next time I will probably use other fans with a width of 38 mm. I am sure that jcool understands much about water cooling. :up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DagoDuck

Next time I will probably use other fans with a width of 38 mm.

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You already got some particular in mind?

hey, am i blind or is there no high-side access?

Very very clean and minamlistic build - i like.

I think this has to be so far one of the best packed units i have seen. I guess you can compear it to the build of LD, the packing is what will make the unit live when it gets home!

Personly on that case i'd of set it up back to front cos of the door but i personly have never been up close to one so no idea how much it's effected.

38mm fan i would of gone with, maybe with a speed controler or 9v modded.

However it's still a very clean build and amazingly packed, well done dude!

Pete

Hey Dago!
Very clean unit. I like it very much.
Next time, I would make the liquidline straight, so the filter doesn't block the view on the Danfoss sticker.
Now a interesting question:
Where get the condesors fresh air if the door is closed. And where would the heat go out the case if you don't have backside fans like the normal V2000 has? All in all that could result in some quite highside pressures! What do you think?

Where is the "endposition" of the Dixell?

@Teyber
There is a access quite near the discharge port.

Greetings! Paul

One question:
You didn't need to cut out a square behind the mobo at the cpu-position? (Hope, somebody understands that question.:yawn: )

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fr3akyPete

One question:
You didn't need to cut out a square behind the mobo at the cpu-position? (Hope, somebody understands that question.:yawn: )

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Mobo tray being cut to fit the back plate & insuation for the evap mounting you mean? Might not need it as back plate and isulation might be low profile.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pete

Mobo tray being cut to fit the back plate & insuation for the evap mounting you mean? Might not need it as back plate and isulation might be low profile.

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But then I would recommend to use a heater.

@Pete
"Mobo tray being cut to fit the back plate & insuation for the evap mounting..."
Exactly what I thought of.

@Moc
What heaters would be used for that? (with low profile insulation)

Beautiful job, but a question, how is the phase systems heat exhausted from the case? It seems you're going to be heating up the powersupply quite heavily.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fr3akyPete

@Moc
What heaters would be used for that? (with low profile insulation)

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Hm, don't know exactly how strong the vapochill heaters are but I think 10W will be enough. Here in Germany we can find them as heaters for the rear/extern (don't know the name, hope you understand what I mean) mirrors of cars.

Fr3akyPete, I would recommend the SilenX iXtrema Pro IXP-76-14 fan. I think, I will use the fan next time. If the unit shouldn't be very quiet, I would use a strong 230V fan, which is suitable for it very well. I hope, the case does not need to be cut, because the back plate as well as the insulation are very thin. I have not tried it out. Pete, thank you very much! teyber, as Moc already said, there is an access quite near the discharge port. I had put a connection in the liquid line, but it has not worked very well. Moc, I also thank you! I had just made the liquid line straight, but it has not worked very well. I believe that before the capillary tube were not enough liquid refrigerant. You should put the filter a little bit down. The door of the case has small holes, but you're right, I would recommend to leave the door open. Of course the case must be well cooled. The thermometer comes from Eliwell. The cables were made so long, so that it can be built in all shafts.

I like haribo in the box :D

Really nice unit my friend! :up:

Best Regards

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DagoDuck

I had put a connection in the liquid line, but it has not worked very well. Moc, I also thank you! I had just made the liquid line straight, but it has not worked very well. I believe that before the capillary tube were not enough liquid refrigerant. You should put the filter a little bit down. The door of the case has small holes, but you're right, I would recommend to leave the door open. Of course the case must be well cooled. The thermometer comes from Eliwell. The cables were made so long, so that it can be built in all shafts.

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Then your charge was to low :D .

Did you made the cut for the 3x120 rad? Extremly nice quality, with what kind of tools did you that?
Did you soldered the captube to the suction line?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LittleDevil

I like haribo in the box :D

Really nice unit my friend! :up:

Best Regards

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Thank you! ;)

@Moc

It was milled. I have not made the cutting. It's probably made by jcool. :) Yes, it's soldered, but not completely.

You might want to remove like, a triple 120mm space on the side of one case side, add a nice fan grill, and maybe even some very quiet yate loon 120mm fans.

Hey guys, I want to thank you for posting and for your interest in this project, any input is well appreciated since I'm pretty much a phase change noob :D
However, I'm not a noob when it comes to hardware in general, overclocking, watercooling and silent computing so here we go ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DagoDuck

I would recommend the SilenX iXtrema Pro IXP-76-14 fan

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Don't _ever_ use something from SilenX my friend. Their ratings are ridiculously exaggerated in terms of noise and airflow, basically they just suck.
See fan tests around XS and elsewhere.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pete

38mm fan i would of gone with, maybe with a speed controler or 9v modded.

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DagoDuck also suggested that, he wanted to use a 120x38mm Papst fan that was rated at 1500RPM, 82m³/h airflow and 25dBA or something.
But I insisted on using the Noctua P12, since it pushes more air per rpm than any other fan I've seen so far. Its rating is 93m³/h at 1300RPM and 20dBA, and while I'm not sure about the noise level being accurate, I do have some of these babies here and I can confirm the CFM rating, seems about right. So actually this fan pushes more than a low speed 38mm one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NoL

Beautiful job, but a question, how is the phase systems heat exhausted from the case? It seems you're going to be heating up the powersupply quite heavily.

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You are right, we both failed to see that problem in the planning phase. I think I'll try it the way it is set up, and if the PSU overheats I'll either reverse the airflow (so that it goes from back to front) or cut out the plate for the 2nd PSU (where the switch for the compressor unit sits) to mount an additional exhaust fan.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Moc

Did you made the cut for the 3x120 rad? Extremly nice quality, with what kind of tools did you that?

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I made that cut with a computer-guided milling cutter (I hope that's the correct term, "CNC Fräse" in German) :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fr3akyPete

One question:
You didn't need to cut out a square behind the mobo at the cpu-position?

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I hope it will fit, but if not I've got plenty of standoffs from TJ07 cases lying around... they are very high and should do the trick (will have to mod IO shield though)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337

You might want to remove like, a triple 120mm space on the side of one case side, add a nice fan grill, and maybe even some very quiet yate loon 120mm fans.

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I'd like to avoid that if possible, because the sides will be outfitted with noise absorbtion mats.

a 120x25mm fan.. i doubt it would hold -30 to @ 200w with such fan.. i doubt it. I use typically 100cfm fan for that use with this compressor.. which means ~160m^3/h

i also know dagoduck had some issues to get it hold load but it seems like he have solve the issue, glad to hear and nice unit my friend.

He tested it with a 240W load and it's holding fine ;)
Like I said, this is no ordinary fan.

Thank you once again for your advice tim-.

I have tested various loads. Even with 225 watts. I've also tested on an old Pentium 4. In the end it holds fine. The unit only needs some time to stabilise itself. I would gradually overclock the processor.

@ #26

As I said, you are the one who has to know about such things very well. :D By the way, the package was picked up today!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jcool

But I insisted on using the Noctua P12, since it pushes more air per rpm than any other fan I've seen so far. Its rating is 93m³/h at 1300RPM and 20dBA, and while I'm not sure about the noise level being accurate, I do have some of these babies here and I can confirm the CFM rating, seems about right. So actually this fan pushes more than a low speed 38mm one.

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But way more important is air pressure. A condensor is quite restrict, and a 38mm fan can push the air way better than a 25mm fan.

very nice and clean work:)lian li as awlays is beautiful.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Moc

But way more important is air pressure. A condensor is quite restrict, and a 38mm fan can push the air way better than a 25mm fan.

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This fan is optimized for use with heatsinks and radiators, it builds up high static pressure levels :)
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=n...parison&lng=de

I've got an 18db Silenx Ixtrema Pro IXP-76-18 120/38mm fan right next to me and can "confirm" that the noise is way more than 18db.
Also I've got the feeling that it is not as powerful as I expected. From the sucking side I feel also air getting pushed away...:eh:
So, I think this fan is not worth the ~20 Euros I paid for it.
I'll probabaly try the Noctua NF-P12, because I need them for my radiator.

Sad to hear you got trapped in their marketing strategy :/
Head over to the Fans Thread to see other recommendations, but if you want the best-performing quiet fan for rads, go for the P12.

I would love to buy the P12s, but I would need 3 of them and 60€ for "just" fans is pretty
much.

I also thought about the Sanyo Denki San Ace 1011 (would turn them down to 7V or 9V), but they are nowhere listed here in Germany.
I found one industrial website and they wanted 49€ for 1 fan!!! :shocked:

They aren't cheap I know, but they are worth it. Check out geizhals for prices.
If you want something decent and lasting but are not prepared to spend 60€ on 3 fans, go for the S-Flex 1200. They don't push quite as much air but also have a MTBF of 150000h, a great bearing and rather low noise.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jcool

Don't _ever_ use something from SilenX my friend. Their ratings are ridiculously exaggerated in terms of noise and airflow, basically they just suck.

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Hehehe...matches my experience pretty well.

Also this from the Fans,Fans,Fans-thread:
"SilenX 90CFM 18dBA - Just a plain sucky fan. Put it on a radiator and it sucks even more (really, really bad radiator fan...nearly 50% of airflow is lost on the radiator--worse than the Noctua 1200!). That said, it does not make extraneous noise and looks kinda cool. Has a cheap flimsy feel though. Also, the motor overheats. Also, it costs a lot. Also, the specs are WAYYYYYYY off, a big no-no in my book."

But where to find f.e. Sanyo Denki San Ace 1011 in Germany or Europe for an adequat (?) price?
I want to hear that fan and see it's undervolting abilities.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jcool

He tested it with a 240W load and it's holding fine ;)
Like I said, this is no ordinary fan.

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At what temp and highside pressure?:p:

-30C for 240W I think, no idea about the pressure. The unit should arrive today :)

The fan has not only to condense the refrigerant, the compressor has also to be cooled. Unfortunately, this is ignored by many of you. This is why such small fans sometimes aren't enough. An unnecessary heat accumulation only increases the pressure. And of course we would not like to do this to the compressor. ;)

The unit must be well ventilated. I believe I have had a difference of 4-5K without additional fan.

dago,

nice unit ;)
but what is with the highside pressure @ >200w load?

@toaster Thank you! I can't remember exactly, HD maximum of 17 bar, without load it goes down to 13 bar. The fan is a bit too weak. ND about 0,7 bar, without load 0 bar.

17bar is maybe ok yet, bit it is already 1,2bar out of the specifications of the NL11F.I like the build, especially the elektrics work.

I received the case today, seems like everything is in top order. Really great work there DagoDuck, build quality is excellent.
I already did some measuring and I can fit a 92mm exhaust fan where the power connector is sitting, that should take care of the heat problem :)
Will show you guys some pics as soon as its finished, but will be some time cause I'm leaving for the mountains early tomorrow morning... back in 2 weeks, see you then :)

Hey guys, back from Skiing :D
Also received my new DFI mobo, I'll start rebuilding my rig today :)

About the heat issue, I fit a 92mm exhaust fan in the back that should help a great deal, since now it's like a windchannel in the bottom of the case :D
Will post some pics and first results later :)

updates?

@toaster

What do you want to see? Looks like we have some little problems with the PSU. It does not fit in the lower shaft. Need to place the plug elsewhere, so that the PSU can be mounted in the upper shaft. We also need to make some modifications in order to increase the performance. Will take a few weeks. Even some patience, please.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DagoDuck

@toaster

What do you want to see?

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jcool said, that he will post pics and results in few hours...

Yeah folks, been kinda busy this week. Sorry for the delay...
Also had some problems with the setup, it seems to break down way too early.
Even though I changed the fan for a higher speed model (a Zalman ZM-F3 actually, inspired by Vapors great fan review thread), it doesn't hold as much as it should.
Everything is fine until a certain point, that point being my Q6600@4Ghz with 1,43V. Runs WCG for days with no problems, holding steady at -39C.

However, if I start prime small FFT I can watch the temp rise, reaching -15 or something which is where I get a bluescreen due to the CPU getting too warm. It goes back to -42C after that...

So, either it holds -39C or it doesn't hold at all, which is kind of strange. Shouldn't it just hold at -35C or something when the load increases, especially when I'm not even remotely close to the 240W DagoDuck tested? (remember, that was even with the weaker fan).

The other issue is that the PSU doesn't fit... we'll get it worked out somehow, just seems all very strange to me.

cheers

Actually I did not want to make that public. I cannot understand it also. As for myself I'm going to fix the problems! No reason to make things worse. Just wait. Even some patience, please.

Hey, no hard feelings here. I just thought maybe someone knows what's up, that's all. I know you're going to fix it and that you've done your best, and like I said earlier, overall build quality is still excellent. :)

assamble a 38mm thick fan (much better capacity to pull/suck true a condenser then a 25mm one). something like 120-130cfm and you will see it works better ;) those 25mm fans will just cause you problems.. i've been there done that.

As a matter of fact, I have tried with a Silverstone FM122 Fan that has 32mm depth, 2500rpm and is optimized for high pressure. Makes no difference whatsoever... plus we know it works even with the slow Noctua fan, because DagoDuck tested it.
Also the temps are just fine, condenser inlet 48C outlet 31C under load (that's with the Zalman).
Also if you would take a look at Vapors fan roundup you would notice that the Zalman ZM-F3 pushes as much air-per-rpm through a radiator/condenser as the San Ace 1011 38mm fan. The problem is NOT insufficient airflow.

Just trim a few inches off the cap tube. Sounds like its close.

maybe push/pull fans on condenser?

Doesn't fit. But like I said, its almost certainly not a heat issue.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jcool

Also the temps are just fine, condenser inlet 48C outlet 31C under load (that's with the Zalman).

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@ what pressure?

Needs to be around 232.93 psi or 16.06 bar to have adequate subcooling.

Enough is a relative term.

#1. Make sure front panel is open while running prime small FFT... for air flow reason. While front cover is great for letting air in, it adds quite a bit of restriction in that case.
#2. If fan on back can't accomodate amount of air fan in condenser will pump out... it will be limited by fan in back most likely in this case.
#3. Check what ambient temp the unit was tested vs. your operational temp. If ambient temp was like in 10c while tuning for 240w, you will get less capacity during 25c ambient temp usage.
#4. Instead of stressing all 4 cores at same time, try this... 2 cores first, wait till things stablizies and than add other core one at a time while waiting.
Depeneding on tuning done, it might take bit of "warm up" time for getting to capacity.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the input, all of you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jinu117

#1. Make sure front panel is open while running prime small FFT... for air flow reason. While front cover is great for letting air in, it adds quite a bit of restriction in that case.

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Was opened during all times ;)

Quote:

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#2. If fan on back can't accomodate amount of air fan in condenser will pump out... it will be limited by fan in back most likely in this case.

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I have a 2500rpm 92mm fan in the back that pushes a hell of a lot air out of the case. Like I said, it's like a windchannel in there, plus I also tested with open case. I don't think this could be the problem...

Quote:

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#3. Check what ambient temp the unit was tested vs. your operational temp. If ambient temp was like in 10c while tuning for 240w, you will get less capacity during 25c ambient temp usage.

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I don't know the ambient where it was tested, but surely not 10C. I'll ask DagoDuck about this though. I have tested with 22C room temp.

Quote:

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#4. Instead of stressing all 4 cores at same time, try this... 2 cores first, wait till things stablizies and than add other core one at a time while waiting.
Depeneding on tuning done, it might take bit of "warm up" time for getting to capacity.

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If I stress only 2 cores, it won't really move... just holding steady at -39C (instantly, doesn't need any time to stabilize).
If I put heavy load on all 4 cores above a certain Vcore temp also starts to rise instantly. 1 Mi8nute of prime smallFFT above 1,4V and I'm at -28C. Another minute and I'm at -15 and so on. Relly it starts as soon as I hit the prime button and it never stops.
It's even more drastic when linpack is used... I think I got a crash and -11C after 40 seconds there :rolleyes:

Also the unit is running 24/7 for days now, so I'd think that's enough "warming up". Maybe I'll shut it off for a while, let it cool down and try again? :shrug:

Somehow I really don't feel like trearing my rig apart just now...
[/QUOTE]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jcool

Also the temps are just fine, condenser inlet 48C outlet 31C under load (that's with the Zalman).

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by killermiller

@ what pressure?

Needs to be around 232.93 psi or 16.06 bar to have adequate subcooling.

Enough is a relative term.

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:rolleyes:

I don't know about the pressure, since I have no means of measuring it.

Hey jcool!
How is your singlestage performing?
And how loud are the fans?

Hey Fr3akyPete,

there are still no updates, the unit will be sent back soon for the last modifications so that the problem can be solved. However, I also already have an assumption. :shakes:

OK, here we go. Refilled and tested under load, have to tune it a little bit more, especially for higher loads, capillary tube has to be changed. I'm very content with the new refrigerant. The pressures are much better. I'll keep you posted.

http://www.fmkonzept.de/images/refri...25W_Load_2.jpg

What refrigerant did you put in this time?


Regards,

Philipp

R290, does its job very well IMO. :hrhr:

Today I have continued, changed the capillary tube, added a SLHX. SLHX is really nice, almost no liquid floodback. Unit isn't completely insulated. I think I have found the perfect length of the capillary tube. :up:

>200 watts:

12,8 bar(g) comp disch
0,2 bar(g) comp suct
-37,0°C evap

Idle:

11,5 bar(g) comp disch
0,05 bar(g) comp suct
-47,5°C evap

I even made a video for this. It's about 45 megabytes, sorry for that size.

http://www.fmkonzept.de/images/refri..._PC_201_SS.avi

Really happy with the unit now.

Unit will be shipped during next week. Looking forward to images with his beautiful rig! :up:

Regards,
DagoDuck

I want one! Really clean work :)

It seems quieter on the video than I imagined!

Yeah, it must be the quietest SS unit out there, still seems horribly loud to me xD
DagoDuck, could you check your email inbox ;)

Lol? Why should it be the quietest SS out there? :D

'Cause there is no quieter compressor than the NL11F? At least not in that W-range... and the NL11F still is by far the löoudest part of the whole unit, even though I used thick noise absorption mats around it.

Oh man :D of course your the only one with an NL11F unit :lol: ....

No I am not of course.. lol
All I am saying is that my type of SS unit (NL11F internal with noise isolated case) is about the quietest there is in the phase change world (or so I have been told)
Which is still horribly loud for my taste, not really gettin used to it :/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jcool

No I am not of course.. lol
All I am saying is that my type of SS unit (NL11F internal with noise isolated case) is about the quietest there is in the phase change world (or so I have been told)
Which is still horribly loud for my taste, not really gettin used to it :/

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Did you put sound-dampening-mats inside the case?
If yes, what kind of mats exactly?

Yeah I did... heavy-duty mats from the car industry (the same oney they use when dampening car doors for high end speaker systems etc).
Helps a little bit but still way out of line for my taste. I guess I'm just sensitive to noise, building silent computers for customers and all.

If any one of you is interested in the Case + unit feel free to contact me about it. It really hurts to give it away since this is really nice work, but a SS unit just isn't for me I guess.

Hey guys,

got some great news. I finally got around to firing up the repaired unit and all I can say is wow.
Sounds WAY smoother now, the deep nasty humming is gone. The compressor is also 3-5 times more quiet than it was before, I guess there was something seriously wrong before.
When I couldn't distinguish the Zalman ZM-F3 1800RPM 120mm fan from the background noise before, it sounds like a tornado now. Fan is approx. 2 times louder than the compressor. When the case is closed and the sound dampening is in place, it's really impressively quiet for such a unit. Sure, still not comparable to watercooling, but not annoying any more.

I am so gonna keep this unit. If it can also hold the load better now I'll be on cloud 9 - if not I'll just tune down Vcore a little using GTLs (PITA but what the hell).

I want to thank DagoDuck for repairing it, now I'm gonna do a full rebuild again. Pics will need a week or so though, since I need to shop for a few more things beforehand. Also my cam's battery died on me.

cheers guys :)

i looked at those compressors, do you absolutly have to the power adapter or whatever else they have for powering it? i looked at the price of the power adapter things, and they look really steep

I'm the wrong guy to ask really, I have no clue about building phase change units. That's why DagoDuck helped me out :)

@just a noob

The NL11F compressor has a PTC starting device with spade connectors. You can get them from eBay for less price. Does come cheap. :)

Hey guys,

it has been quite some time, and I realize I never posted the pics of the finished build I promised - well the reason for that is simple, it never really was finished. As soon as I had finished building and cleaning up all the mess, something would break down again and I had to rip it all apart. The unit was repaired by DagoDuck but after a week still ran out of gas, so I got fed up and drove over to August123 so he could leak-test it and fix the problems once and for all - that he did (thanks again buddy!), and it has been running fine ever since.

Here are a few shots of the latest developments (yeah I know most of them are gruesome, was dark & in a hurry but still better than nothing):

http://database.he-computer.de/Bilder/temp/evap1.JPG

Uh-oh... not really tight insulation there :shakes:

http://database.he-computer.de/Bilder/temp/evap2.JPG

My new lga1366 compatible evap head, courtesy of Duniek (thanks for the fast shipping m8 :up: )
Excellent build quality, it is way better than the original Chilly1 mount and also looks sleek as hell if you ask me.

http://database.he-computer.de/Bilder/temp/3.JPG

Insulation is, errr, rather temporary. I need to get some of that kneaded rubber stuff as I resent using Armaflex tape (you can't get it off for :banana::banana::banana::banana: after it has been on the mobo a while, see my old DFI x38 :shakes: )

http://database.he-computer.de/Bilder/temp/4.JPG
http://database.he-computer.de/Bilder/temp/5.JPG
http://database.he-computer.de/Bilder/temp/6.JPG
http://database.he-computer.de/Bilder/temp/7.JPG
http://database.he-computer.de/Bilder/temp/8.JPG
http://database.he-computer.de/Bilder/temp/9.JPG

Water temp on the left, evap temp on the right :)

http://database.he-computer.de/Bilder/temp/10.JPG

As you can see, I still got loads of work to do.

Hardware:

- crappy i7 920 @ 4,1Ghz more or less stable (real POS chip)
- DFI x58 (great mobo)
- 6GB CSX Diablo 2000
- HD4870X2 with watercool LT block
- Aquastream XT pump
- HTSF Triple Rad (yeah just for the GFX card and HDDs, until I can get the mobo on water again)


cheers guys

great man.......way to go.....
i hope you enjoy that beast 100%....:)

Thanks mate :)

Yeah I did "enjoy".. sort of :D
Ran almost 1 year 24/7 on my killer Q6600 now, after august123 fixed it :up:

Nice mounting kit, any info on that? Seems I've missed out on some new advancements.

There ya go NoL: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=125110

Good to see you back.

Thanks Jcool! Good to see you too man.
Ah Duniek, always my man for mass production, will have to give him a ring when I'm back up on my feet.