Silver's Work In Progress

Well I was inspired by disruptfam's V2000 Tri-loop. Originally I wanted to do what he did with some slight changes, but due to the MCR's being 8mm to wide they wouldn't fit on top of each other on the bottom. So instead I drew some inspiration from the TJ07 owners and decided to mount them side by side. Now I've jumped into so many projects before and ended up having some parts interfering or incompatibilities, so this time I'm taking my time before I order everything. I originally planned on ordering everything, but I found out that FrozenCpu is on the way from my home to my school, so I drove by them and picked up a bunch of stuff. I usually don't order from FZcpu because of the tax but by picking up in person I can make up the shipping costs.

So here are the basic rad mount plans, I may have posted these up before but this is the official log/WIP/watever. So far project is known as V2K 620, my main rig has always been called EOS.

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/5700/v2kmn2.jpg

I decided I'd have the radiators on the outside because they look better than the fans do, esp since the fan ribs would be facing outside.

here is list of parts so far

Actual PC hardware

-Q6600 G0 Have
-G.skill PC8000 2x2GB Have
-4x Maxtor 7200.10 320GB Have
-Abit IP35 Pro Have
-eVGA 8800GTS 320 SC Have(may step up to G92)
-Corsair HX620 Have

Case hardware

-Lian Li V2000 Have
-3 to 4 HDD converter Need to get (I may mod the original hdd holders)
-MNPCtech Black Rescessed handles Need to get
-Ac Ryan modders mesh or MNPC mesh?

-Need a decent priced laser or water jet cut or jig saw

Cooling Hardware

2x DDC3.2 with Petra Top Have 1
2x MCR320 Have 1
2x EK Res 250 Need to get
4x Bitspower Case Top Water Fill/ Through Hole Fitting Have
2x Bitspower Dual G1/4" High Flow Fitting - Male to Male Thread Have
10' Tygon R3603 7/16in. ID 5/8in need to get
1x Apoggee GTX w/ copper top have
1x MCW60 or EK full coverage block
6x Yate loon High spds
1x Sunbeam theta fan controller

I'll get better pix soon, windows resizer powertoy is great because I'm lazy but its algorithm sucks and picture quality goes down.

V2000 Plus(not plus II)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_6988.jpg

Now here is the surprise. I first saw these on PPC, and put them on my list because they were cheaper than DD fillport and male to male threads. And I have to say the quality is amazing, and they look amazing indeed.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_6974.jpg

Male - Male connector, any male connector has a captive O-ring very nice.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_6975.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_6976.jpg

With a D-tek barb
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_6977.jpg

My GTX which I painted the top black, after the 1st vinegar bath the nickel plating wasn't shiny. the brand new Copper top next to it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_6978.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_6979.jpg

About a year of use and no corrosion. The O-ring leaves a big black mark though.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_6982.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_6981.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_6983.jpg

GTX with copper top, gerdang this thing is twice as heavy now but it looks fantastic.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_6984.jpg

That's it for now, going to order more stuff tomorrow.

I decided it would be fun if I could ask a poll kind of question with each update.

For this one here it is. Should I jigsaw cut the window and holes for rad or find a water or laser cutting service? I wonder how much it would cost me.

Looking good.... (what colours are you thinking of working with???)

If you feel comfortable with your jigsaw skills i would cut it that way...

Getting it lasercut might cost a fair bit...

more copper... nice design, good luck with cutting skills, which ever tool you might use... i see jigsaw with guides as easiest to use...

i also have some incoming parts from PPCs, Bitspower barbs and such, including their own model reservour (didn't have ek150 instock)...

I like the shiny silver stuff... wonder if its really and would prove benificial to watercooling...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by disruptfam

Looking good.... (what colours are you thinking of working with???)

If you feel comfortable with your jigsaw skills i would cut it that way...

Getting it lasercut might cost a fair bit...

---

well I'm a huge guy on symmetry, since my mobo is blue as is my ram I decided I would go with a white blue scheme. Now only if there were a white UV dye hehe. I want to mount the Resevoirs like this.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...2kressetup.jpg

I want to have a white light lighting up the res from below while the entire upper chamber is bathed in UV light. The coolant will be distilled water with Petra UV clear dye and biocide. So the lower portion of the res will look clear while the upper part will look uv blue. Now I would go two different colors for each loop if they made a UV white of some sort, but I think even with identical colors it will look nice. I may add a few more white LED accents elsewhere.

Now another question of what to use:
I'm possibly getting a 8800GTS (G92) should I use an EK8800 or MCW60

the EK8800 will cost me about 110-120, the MCW60 will total around $80-$90 with the ramsinks, and the extra fan bracket I'm going to have to build for it.

Also if I go with the MCW60, the swiftech ramsinks are notorious for their sucky thermal tape, but since this is inverted ATX does it matter? the ramsinks will be sitting on the card so to say.

well.... i had a mcw60... but changed it out for a ek fc block...These reason why is the ram was giving off a fair bit of heat and i had a 120mm fan on above the vga to dissipate the heat straight out the case...When i got my sound card the 120mm fan had to go... so i swapped out the mcw60 for the ek block...fyi the mcw60 will perform about 5c better than the ek block...and is less restrictive keep that in mind...also with the ram sinks...they should be right...i heated mine up with a hairdryer then stuck them on applied pressure to the ram and let them all sit for 24hours to obtain maximum bondage...

So you can be stuffed making that fan bracket go for the mcw60..if not go the ek block...

I think I'll go for the EK block, mostly because I thought out my loop and the ek block would make it easier. Now I'm wondering what would go well with blue since having all blue UV is kind of boring esp with a blue board and memory. I want to use white but don't know what.. hmm going to throw some ideas around.

blue.. white as you mentioned before would look good

That should be nice, seeing a different colored setup than the normal colors we see around. Definately post pics when done! :up:

Also, I have found that to activate the thermal tape on the Swiftech, as well as Enzotech and others that have the heat tapes, you can use a cotton swab with isopropyl alcohol (I use 91%). Make sure that both mating surfaces are clean before you start. Dip the swab into the alcohol, then swab the tape mating surface for approximately 30 seconds or until it gets tacky or until the swab starts to stick.

Once it is tacky, immediately attach the ramsink to the ram chip. Press it on, as per the instructions and let it dry for approximately 1 minute, and it's on there. This method also works to clean the thermal tape if you get it dirty. The dirt will stick to the swab instead of the tape.

a Fly Cutter will also make nice circular holes if you have a drillpress.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by disruptfam

well.... i had a mcw60... but changed it out for a ek fc block...These reason why is the ram was giving off a fair bit of heat and i had a 120mm fan on above the vga to dissipate the heat straight out the case...When i got my sound card the 120mm fan had to go... so i swapped out the mcw60 for the ek block...fyi the mcw60 will perform about 5c better than the ek block...and is less restrictive keep that in mind...also with the ram sinks...they should be right...i heated mine up with a hairdryer then stuck them on applied pressure to the ram and let them all sit for 24hours to obtain maximum bondage...

So you can be stuffed making that fan bracket go for the mcw60..if not go the ek block...

---

I couldne't get mine top stick for even 1 minute, the thermal tape worked about as well as scotch tape on mine...but I never put alcahol on the tape itself might have to try that next time.

So talked to a local laser cutter and they told me with the black anodized aluminum I'd be better off getting a waterjet job, so waiting on a quote from them.

Looking good man!

So while I'm waiting on a quote and for all the stuff I ordered to come in time to discuss!!!

Now in that drawing I have up there from paint it shows where I want to put the rad and fans. Now the question is should I have fans on the outside? or rads on the outside? and with either one which way should the fans blow?

The way I have it currently draw the fans can suck air in from the outside but it just won't look as cool through the mesh with fans compared to the rad. If sucking air from the outside it would have to push it through the rad and the air then would have to either escape through the mesh holes in the front of the case, the bottom of the case or be sucked out via the PSU and or 80mm fans in the back.

If I have the fans sucking air out with the fans on the outside it would probably be the least asthetically pleasing as then you see the hub, the fan sticker and the fan spokes.

Hmm what to do. I can fan's on the inside and put in either direction.

So I got a quote back from the water/laser guy

He suggested laser as a more cost efficient method. Has anyone had their cases Laser cut?

Quote was for both panels. $120 about

Here is what I asked for, there are 2 vs of the 1st panel the quote is including lettering

http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/1...stquotesb6.jpg

I decided I'm going to pocket the money for laser cutting and use it elsewhere.

I figured since I have the vertical clearance I will mount the rads further back in the case. I didn't want to cut my window up top as big as the regular Lian Li windows as it show's the 5" bays. Instead I found out if I push the rad's as far back as possible the front part of the rads line up perfectly. So here is the revised plan so far.

Red is the radiator
green is pump location
Blue is cutouts

I made the bottom one larger than the rad so that when the rad's suck in air it can be blown out the top. Warmer air tends to rise so hopefully that will work out. The rear where the upper portion is blocked the air can escape via the 2 80mm holes in the back.

http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/2...llayoutrl6.jpg

I also was browsing around when I stumbled upon ladderman's worklog. I figured I could drill out and tap the swiftech's just like him, the outermost walls don't have any tubes just fins. Here is what I plan on to brace the radiators. There will be cross braces ontop as well as on bottom, the bottom ones will have extra holes that can go through the LianLi holes and there will be small rubber washers to mount it.

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/4...conceptms5.jpg

Now I still need for the parts to come in as well as visit a place called fastenal to get some M3.5x20mm bolts.

I think I'm going to go buy some tools, I'm college and living in a private student apartment. I have some space in my room but not alot. I really want to get this 10" small drill press on sale at Harbor freight for $48, then I can measure drill and check the mounts. So much I want to do but I can't till everything is in haha.

Ok last question I originally planned to have the res setup like this.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...2kressetup.jpg

But I'm wondering will it look better setup like this instead? side by side the other way?(again ladderman's pix)

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&d=1181073105

P.S. Sorry for the ton of planning and questions and not much doing lol.(there will be much doing and pictures this weekend)

thats good to know... more pictures are simply required...

I like that bracket you made for the resevoirs.
You gave me an idea with that. I can create a bracket thats similar but with different mounting holes for a 120mm fan in front.

1/8inch thick by 1 inch wide aluminum flat bar would be perfect...

Alright wow my Worklog is a mess. I'll try to keep it neater and have it more organized from now on. Anyways here goes:

1/19/08 massive update
I've been busy for most of the week due to being 1st week of school, moving back rearranging apartment etc.

I would love more space to work but this is what I have

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1..._MG_6997-1.jpg
My bed, my computer, and my "workshop"
here it is the V2000 just waiting to be modified and filled.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1..._MG_6998-1.jpg
Although my tools were limited to basic pliers, dremel, and a jigsaw. This was on sale at Harbor Freight for $43, so I picked it up with a few clamps and a small table vise.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7015.jpg

coming back to my place I picked up some packages, I forgot to take pictures of the 3rd package as that came in the day after.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1..._MG_6999-1.jpg

What's in there you might say?? Why here you go
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1..._MG_7000-1.jpg
A ton of misc fittings and connectors, 2x EK250 Res, 3x Yate SH from petras, some tubing etc.

Now I had some Yate loon SH from my friend who bought a ton of them from jabtech, so I decided to compare the 3 I had to the 3 I got from petras. The Jab tech ones also have rounded hub arms, and physically are indistinguishable except the Jab ones are straight blades, which does not necessarily mean they aren't real.

so which is which?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7010.jpg

The petra yate has sticker on both sides of the fan the jabby has only one side.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7010.jpg

The petra yates are labeled as 710 the jabbys are 703
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7012.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7014.jpg

At full blast there is no difference at all in sound or from my limited testing equipment(my hand) in performance. But at around 7V the Jab tech makes more mechanical noise, I can't explain it any further but it does.

here is what came in the 3rd package, an extra MCR320 and a DDC3.2 with petra top. Got this at sidewinderpc, it was strange because the DDC was cheaper with petra top than from petra themselves.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7004.jpg
I've gotta get around to sleeving these.

Ok here is the original plan that has changed. I was going to originally have the fans on the inside but decided to put them on the outside. Here is how I was doing my measuring and fitting through the PSU bracket area since I needed both side panels on. The radiators need to sit about 22mm higher than the bottom of the case. I'm still finalizing bracket design but here is rough view of one of the rads in place, albeit being held by me.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7016.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7021.jpg

The original plan would have had the rad higher due to it sitting on top of the aluminum rail and the rad fits like a glove under the PSU then, but I'm not going that path. By having the rad on the inside I should have about a little over 1/8" clearance.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7020.jpg

To get the tubes in between the rads I'm going to be utilizing none other than some martin elbows, I'm discussing a custom size I need for possible future push pull configs. But here I get about 2mm clearance with your standard elbow so I'm having him extend it by about 5mm more.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7009.jpg

Now to the pretty stuff. here is a diagram of the how I originally planned on using the reservoir. The grey are 10mm male to male connectors, the yellow is a bitspower T connector and the blue is barbs

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...nalresidea.jpg

Even with the rad and gtx block hooked up the flow rate was too great and the pump was sucking in bubbles. So I flipped the resevoir, and unlike my original plan which had a tubing connecting the pump(which would be located below) this time I got rid of the fancy connections up top which added another 50mm and instead just flipped the res and connected the pump directly. It still vortexed than I had a cool idea of using the bitspower T fitting. Here

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7023.jpg

The bubbles literally just hover in a vortex above it and none get sucked in, the ones you see in the bitspower are those tiny ones that just sit there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7024.jpg

Now I'm still doing some measuring and working but I just had to post these. I decided to play with some of petra's dye and it only took 3 drops to dilute the entire loop.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7025.jpg

Now the cool part, one of the side holes in the res is being used as the res return, but I have one that is just plugged. I am going to use a white LED plug in there as my dye is the clear blue dye. To test I put my led flashlight on the top hole and voila exactly what I wanted, two colors in one res gradienting into each other.

LED only

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7026.jpg

Now add 2 cold cathodes

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7027.jpg

With this res setup including the height of the pump I will have about .7cm or 7mm of space under the pumps, which I will leave free and maybe get some airflow around there as I know these DDC's need to stay cool to stay healthy.

That's all for now, mebe more stuff later or tomorrow depending on how tired I get.

wow nice update!

great pics 2 :)

im liking this idea very much

more updates

Those pics make me want my ek-res to arrive asap. :)

Great idea with the res and the duel colors. That gives me a few ideas as how I might set mine up once they arrive.

I need to check out Harbor Freight, I could really use even a cheap press.

cool

so does the fitting idea help prevent sucking bubbles?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by stormshadow

cool

so does the fitting idea help prevent sucking bubbles?

---

well because the cube is for a T fitting the water is sucked in from the sides now. The action of the water coming back in gives it a swirl effect but much less than without the T block. It worked out perfectly where the vortex of bubbles ends about 1/2" above the T block so no bubbles get sucked in. I really wanted to do the dual color idea but didn't want to spend the $$ on the LED plugs without testing it first. I'm going to pretty much spend the rest of my budget on these following things

a few more bitspower male-male fittings
5 special custom ordered martin elbows
Ek8800 block
plexi for the window
mesh for intake

Now a question should I pay the $30 for the hexx mesh or should I pay $7 and get 2 mesh garbage cans from walmart. The mesh cans are just cross mesh, but they look pretty nice and are still better flowing than the round hole mesh.

http://www1.istockphoto.com/file_thu...d_on_white.jpg

Guess you'll cut one up and see what the mesh is like to work?

jejeje just go on.... work hardly :d

trash bins looks nice...

pictures are great.
nice updates

lucky you got ek res, my order from ppcs EK150 was out of stock, replaced with Bitspower equivalent value, but i don't like there res design...

Ok quick update, I haven't uploaded pix yet of what I'm doing but here. How does this look like for a sidepanel cutout? The diagnal slots and the big EOS opening will let the air that goes through the rads out.

http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/929...ldesigniz4.jpg

Nice work and great planning!

You won't regret getting a drill press, I have a similar one that I use all the time. Get a buffing wheel and arbor and you can polish with it. Alos tapping is great in a press for nice square and plumb starting. My mill is a bit limited in Z axis, so I still use my press for alot of longer drill bit stuff.

Great job, keep it up!

How will the eos lettering be supported?
Nice design developing for that panel.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jedda

How will the eos lettering be supported?
Nice design developing for that panel.

---

I hope i can cut it out (unitbit and jigsaw do not let me down), I'm making a template out of thick cardboard paper. The lettering I'm not sure what to make them out of yet, either scrap from the cutouts or use acrylic and cover them with an opaque black film with a small margin that can be frosted and lit. As for holding it, I'm going to be using the mesh so i can easily screw it from behind.

Very well planed out and I admire your attention to detail. I’m really looking forward to this build.

I’m pleased you found something useful in my TJ07 build log.

Looking forward to more updates.

good work boss =)

lets go

more updates :D

silverphoenix, try to get the e in uppercase like E so you can cut it out without worrying about holding the part in the lowercase e. Just find the right font which make uppercase looks great.

Hmm I just had an idea. It got pretty crazy outside for a bit, sorry for bad pictures But I'm not good at photography(and strangely enough having an SLR makes it harder), the pics were taken through a window and a screen.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7058.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7057.jpg



How does this look to you guys? I have an AC rad grill from a different project and thought this could look nice.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7063.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7062.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7061.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7065.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7064.jpg


Also a little peek into my hdd solution

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7053.jpg

looks good...

You keeping all the hd's in the drive bays? drilling it on the middle divider..

how are keep thing the top stable? bracket of some sort?

or using 1 side hd things and 1 side drive bays? 3.5 converter ecs thing?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by disruptfam

looks good...

You keeping all the hd's in the drive bays? drilling it on the middle divider..

how are keep thing the top stable? bracket of some sort?

or using 1 side hd things and 1 side drive bays? 3.5 converter ecs thing?

---

It's not finalized, but it moving on entire column from below to the top leaves room for one optical drive. I have 4hdds, but I really do only use 1 optical drive, so I may bolt one of them to the other side or make a crossbrace, not sure exactly yet.

As for now I would love to be able to use a radgrill to mount the radiators so I"m trying to figure out a way to access the radiators with both sides closed. It may end up being from below!!

So After brainstorming and fidgeting on how to mount the radiators, I finally came up with a plan.

I originally wanted the outlets to be towards the rear and the pumps up front, but mounting this way eliminates the need for extra elbows, now I only need 2, probably martin's.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7075.jpg

the radiators can now hold the pumps as well using male to male fittings.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7077.jpg

I took those male to male fittings from the little cube inside my reservoir. I was trying different ways of fitting the res and the little acrylic elbow seems to have slightly tapered threading towards the end as my D-tek barbs sealed the cubes cracked... Now I know why the DD delrin elbows and T's are a bit longer. So the reservoir is not going to have that cool swirl, it will be setup like a normal EK res, but the cool double lighting will still be there.

Now here is the main problem with mounting the radiator in the V2000 series for me. The sidepanels have a Lip that catches the case and holds the panel steady. Well this lip also means that if the Radiator were to just sit at the bottom of the case about a good 1" of the fans and radiator won't see the outside. If I let the fans sit on top of the Lip the distance between the radiator and the bottom is 20mm.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7080.jpg

20mm is 0.787 Inches, so tomorrow I'm planning on getting some .75" aluminum square bar with 1/16" angle aluminum. This will let me mount the radiators securely like so.

The blue is the square aluminum and red is the angle.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...tfinalized.jpg

Also I've decided against using the yate loons with a speed controller, as the controller is meant to fit in a PCI slot and I rather just have fans I can run at 100%. Now the yate High spds aren't that loud but 6 of them is a bit much for me. So I'm going to use the 3 petra yates I have and replace these not so great Lian Li ones and get some petra mediums.

Also does anyone have a detailed tutorial on how to rewire fans together? so you can have let's say all 6 fans with only one molex? I'm not sure how to attach the wires do you use a butt splice? just drip some solder on there?

nice use of male/male fittings :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pub_Randy**

nice use of male/male fittings :)

---

Agreed, great space saving tip :up:

The ac ryan radgrillz don't match.
I know, because I wanted to do the same thing with the same exact grill

Nice work silver!

I did the same thing with mesh:

Here

They where like $7 each, they work great! Easy to bend too.
I'd go for that instead of a $30 sheet.

edit:
Oops, didn't realize there where already two pages.... :rolleyes:

Got to say it's looking great, I am very impressed.

Best regards

Ok small update. been busy with classes and what not.

List of things in update

-Attached fan to PWM hsf,
-some sleeving
-built radiator bracket



I was originally going to attach the 3x 40mm fans I have to the motherboard to cool the NB and PWM's. My PWM's run very hot even with a TT smartfan blowing 80CFM on it, it hits 50C easily. Hopefully the 40mm fan should keep it below 80C. As for the NB I decided against mounting 40mm fans and am ordering a 60x15mm fan to put on the side of it.

The Fan
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7083.jpg
Where to cool on the mobo
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7084.jpg
Tada
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7085.jpg
Also I didn't need to use zip ties as the stiffness of the sleeving keeps the fan wedged there

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7086.jpg

I also sleeved a few more things, including my 1st DDC pump, sorry forgot to take pictures. But I sleeved the rpm wire using only heatshrink. I got this on ebay for about $15, 100' of 1/8" heatshrink

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7087.jpg

Sleeved the LED and switch cables. Need to order more sleeving to sleeve the USB and FW headers.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7088.jpg


Well here is my "dremel" its a ryobi I bought at Home Depot for $19.99, included many attachments and accessories.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7089.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7091.jpg

It's about as powerful as the 300 series dremel(according to Amperage draw) If I need more power I have a 5A rotozip as well but that can be bulky.

Although the Ryobi uses the standard cutting disc attachment I prefer using the Dremel Quick release discs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7090.jpg

1st cut a piece the length of the radiator.

Fits nicely
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7092.jpg

Then I drilled holes to mount it
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7094.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7093.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7095.jpg

Afterwards I still needed to combine it with a square aluminum rod. I did this using rivets. They needed to be ground down flat so the radiator could sit flat

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7097.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7096.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7098.jpg

I test fitted the radiator and it fits perfectly!!! Next step is to create one for the other side and drill and tap holes on the bottom to hold it there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/_MG_7104.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...k/IMG_7100.jpg

Looking awesome!

Yes I must say, you are doing a great job man!!!! :up:

Can't wait to see more updates!

very creative!!

im liking this alot :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by disruptfam

very creative!!

im liking this alot :)

---

I agree, it's very creative so it's awesome :)

Now alot of pix aren't working cuz you guys managed to eat up Photobuckets 25gb bandwidth for the month :ROTF:

Just a quick update on which handles to get. Should I go for deep recessed or regular?

Deep
http://208.109.215.157/images/hardwa...900-detail.jpg

Regular
http://208.109.215.157/images/hardwa...900-detail.jpg

deep recessed one looks more supported by top of the case.

space wise the regular stainless handles with proper washers support for top panel ain't too bad... depends on what style handles you managed to acquire...

you're out of bandwidth again :-(

Either move to another image host or pay 25$ / Year for unlimited bandwidth. Also remove the pic from the sig since it also suck bandwidth.

any updates ?

yeah, i'd like to see more as well!

Haha Sorry guys I've been incredibly busy, I haven't even been on the forums. I really hope everything can come together this weekend.

Quote:

---

Also a little peek into my hdd solution

---

I've done the same thing.

You don't need to drill into the bottom divider at all, I have mine being held by 4 cable ties (2 top and 2 bottom at the back) and it's quite sturdy. Though it still has freedom to wobble a bit when moving, but that truly is nothing to worry about. Originally had cable ties near the drive bay covers but stuffed it up and had to cut them to mount them back on.

You will need to work out a cooling solution though, you can space out 3 hdd's and they'll be quite cool but the moment you add the 4th (it'll be on top of another drive) two will get quite warm.

Another thing I recommend is cutting out some holes in the bottom divider to better route cables, especially for the atx plug and 8pin plug for the board.

Everything is looking good so far, nice work.

I'm very fond of your radiatorsolution, very nice.

Is that the Abit IP35 PRO motherboard? I'm thinking of getting one of those or the GA-P35-DS4 but I have a hard time choosing.
Have you tested your board yet? I've heard of some flaws in both boards but I can'r really get my mind settled.

I'm also waiting for your next update :rolleyes:


Edit: Nevermind, I checked your list of hardware.

Haha I bet many of you thought this project was dead!!!

well it just went into hibernation while I was busy with school and a few other personal things.

Well Once I got the EK block a while ago from martin I took a few pix and installed it onto the 8800GT which I'll end up using for 1-2 months and then give to my brother(who's still using an AGP 6600GT in his old machine), replacing it will hopefully be the 9900GTX.

http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/6461/mg7153oc0.jpg

The machining work is awesome

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/11/mg7155ic5.jpg

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/6752/mg7156vg5.jpg

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/2283/mg7161pc8.jpg

I also received a few martin plugs, I used plumbers copper epoxy to attach them as having a torch in my apt is kind of against the rules lol.

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/1703/mg7176as8.jpg
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/8451/mg7181if6.jpg
We'll see these later in use

I spliced and wired and sleeved the medium spd petra yates on the rads.
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5896/mg7177tf2.jpg
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/701/mg7178kd6.jpg
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/9343/mg7179gk3.jpg
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/5852/mg7180oj6.jpg

I also found a fairly affordable way to mount my hdd's in a compact way in the 5" bays, I'm still thinking of how I'm going to cool these. I'm thinking of drilling a 120mm hole under the 5" bay and mounting a fan.
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/8352/img7199iq9.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/2042/img7200xs7.jpg

A few of my buddies are coming up to visit me while I take some summer courses, and of course being the geeks we are, we will hold a mini lan so I did a tubing mockup today. I'm always amazed at how so many people can plan out a build and it goes all to plan. I seem to always run into some unforeseen problems lol. The layout has changed so much, and it was still not finalized until after I drilled the holes for the fillports, hence the alu behind the resevoirs are a bit messed up. Enough talk here are pix and captions telling the story.

1st up a full shot of the whole thing all tubed up, I would install components but I'm waiting on some sata II cables and some extra barbs from petras.
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/5650/mg7215bf5.jpg
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/8392/mg7216eg0.jpg

With flash for detail
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/3056/img7235nt7.jpg

The innards below, I'm huge on symmetry as well as routing stuff neatly, still haven't perfected it yet. I'm a bit impatient and if I had time and was doing thing's right I'd make cardboard templates for everything lol. You can also see the 2x martin elbows and 2x martin Tee's I made, they are awesome!!
http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/3294/mg7230my6.jpg
http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/7012/mg7228ek8.jpg

the tubing from the reservoir all the way to the pump is 1/2"ID 3/4"OD tygon, which hence the beefy fat worm clamps below on the regular d-tek and EK barbs.
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/2419/mg7231vu2.jpg
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/1764/mg7234yl4.jpg

The elbows above are a bit hard to take a picture of(low lighting, and flash reflects)
http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/7012/mg7228ek8.jpg

here's the mess I made of the aluminum, luckily it's not visible unless you look from the upper rear corner straight at it, either way when I start the more asthetic portion of the build I'll cover it up.

http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/5903/img7218pi3.jpg

next install the 2nd radiator, I almost forgot the aluminum stands the radiators' are on are drilled and tapped on the bottom to keep em steady( my machine tends to travel quite a bit during the year).

View from the rear
http://img53.imageshack.us/img53/3023/mg7222cn8.jpg

The corsair is gonna really be utilized once the 9900GTX is in.
http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/926/mg7219vc5.jpg

side shot
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/8625/mg7217fq8.jpg

Last shot for now
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3747/img7237wq5.jpg

Also the bitspower fillport/drain port requires 7/8" hole, my 7/8" unibit I have left the hole about 2-3mm to small, and the larger unibit I have the shaft was too large to fit in my handrill chuck, so I ended up using a brass 3/4" T to put pressure on it and used a crescent wrench to manually cut the whole a bit more xD.

Now here is list of things to finish

1.Decide if I really want the spring loaded handles
2.Find a matte non shiny stick film I can cover all the shiny aluminum in the interior
3.9900GTX soon
4. Replacing the Apogee GTX with EK Supreme or Fuzion (the EK looks pwettier) the GTX will be used in my brother's rocketfish wc project this summer
5. Gotta add wire up lighting and switches for it.
6. Still playing around in my head about color schemes
7. Cut window
8. um that's about it for now.

nice to see you back!!

Great update looking good

almost forgot about this thread!!!

v2000 ftw

btw, I left enuff space on top for either the handles or another 120.3 radiator, for what I dunno lol. If I had the cash I would buy another case and perfect it, but for now any mistakes I've made I'll just fix it the best I can.

Great job! Nice to see this project back.

I wish I had some martin elbows :(

That's coming along very well.
Keep it up :)

I've been thinking about getting those HDD caddies myself.