ISH Removal for e21XX series CPUs

Hi all,

I have read with interest some discussion of these CPUs. It is fairly noticeable that most of these CPUs seem to run with high load temps when overclocked to around their limit. Most people seem to be able to hit 3.2ghz fairly easily, then hit a FSB wall where vcore increase doesn't help much. That's exactly what I experienced with mine. Anyway...

What I would like to discuss here is how many people are considering and possibly have already removed the IHS on these CPUs? To me it seems easier and a lot less time, effort and bother than lapping, as lapping often doesn't give the desired results after a lot of work. I have seen that it seems all of these e21XX series CPUs come with a differetn IHS "seal" to other more highend CPUs which affects their load temps. Other more costly CPUs tend to have their IHS soldered on around the sides, where as these are not and are able to be removed.

Is the IHS removal on these pretty much the same as you would do with other CPUs? I removed a couple of socket 939 CPU IHS's. I am also interested in how it affects heatsink block mounting. Is a make up shim required and does it affect the stability of the CPU being held in the socket bracket clamp? Are the cores able to take pressure without IHS ok?


Many thanks for discussion on this matter.

Just do the same as you did with s939 cpu's (watch out for resistors/capacitors under the ihs). If your lucky the ihs falls off, if your unlucky its solderd and you have to heat it.

you can't remove Core 2 lids without a great effort, they are soldered on and it takes a very precise amount of heat in order to take it off without killing it.

place a razor under each edge giving very slight pressure. If it is soldered then it will stay in place. Heat it with the razors under the edges and it will pop off at the correct temperature.

Keeps you from overheating the CPU.

i was thinking of doing this but from what i've read there is a very high chance to loose your cpu in the process. Looks like lapping it is the best idea unless you are ok to experiment and possibly loose a cpu which i wish i was in the position to do but unfortunately.....

i remove the IHS for both of my E2160 and E2140 by using razor blade. dropped 10-15c load temps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Digital Nirvana

you can't remove Core 2 lids without a great effort, they are soldered on and it takes a very precise amount of heat in order to take it off without killing it.

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I tried to make it clear in the original post that, with these CPUs most people are finding that the IHS is NOt repeat NOT soldered on around the edges, and hence are able to remove them with relative ease.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bail_w

i remove the IHS for both of my E2160 and E2140 by using razor blade. dropped 10-15c load temps.

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Hey there bail_w, can you give me some details as below? Regards

1: How easy was it?
2: What method did you use?
3: Any tips/recommendations/pre-requisites?
4: Did you try lapping as well?
5: Did you find they were soldered on?
6: How did you get on with mounting heatsinks/blocks after the removal?
7: Did you find the CPU was not as secure in the clamping socket bracket on the mobo after IHS removal?

Regards

Read your Pm.

i was wondering slight idea i had maybe stupid but still... could you maybe heat the razors up while there in really hot so they cut through solder but the heat wouldnt touch core?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cozwin

i was wondering slight idea i had maybe stupid but still... could you maybe heat the razors up while there in really hot so they cut through solder but the heat wouldnt touch core?

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:rofl: you never remove an IHS before huh?

Thanks for the reply Bail_w. I asked you via pm for some more info on the mounting bracket mods you did. Otherwise Im going for it. I've removed a couple of socket 939 cpu IHS's before so I'm fairly confident. I will take out the cpu and check for soldering. Either way I will try to pop the lid.
One last thing...i always hear rumours that the intel bare CPUs with cores exposed, are more fragile under pressure compared to the older AMD ones? This true?
Im in the UK with regard to finding mounting brackets/springs online for any mods I carry out.

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bail_w

:rofl: you never remove an IHS before huh?

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lol na would never do it just thought might be a idea :P

Only thing stopping me at the moment is that I dont think the freezer pro would be suitable with the IHS removed. Probably better to buy a screw type heatsink like a scythe/TRUE or something. Gonna order some stuff today.

Notes about IHS removal (gathered from here & the net)
************************************************

Ok guys... I got something major to report. If you soak your CPU in a product called Solvoplast (used to remove bandaids and other adheasives) you will be able to remove the IHS in under 10 seconds with a good razor and drastically reduce your chances of damaging your CPU.

If you are members of XtremeSystems please post this in thier IHS removal thread.

I works soooo good. I left my FX-53 upside down in just enough to cover the silicone seal overnight and came home from work and had it done in less that 2 minutes, and half was wonding why it was so easy

======================================

To make it even easier I used NAIL POLISH remover around edges to soften up the adheasive.That made it easy as pie and taking my time I would say you will invest 30 minutes JUST getting the H/S off.

Well. I soaked my CPU in it for close to 24 hours. What I did was put it upside down, and filled a small container to the bottom of the substrate so it would come in contact with the silicone (or whatever it was) and left it.

I returned form work and was actaully quite nervous. I began to insert the blade (a Gillette dual edged straight razor) and was wondering why it was so easy...

I went around it twice and it wasn't coming off. Turned out some of the Solvoplast has gotten inside from the one side of the IHS that has the spot with no silicone and was creating a bit of a vacuum. Poped right off after i figured that out.

Now. I know that the internals of the CPU had been soaked in the Solvoplast for a long time. Stuck it back in my case and fired right up. Dropped 2c on my idle temp and 10c on load. Gonna start testing for max tonight.

All in all I would have to say therre is no damage to the CPU from Solvoplast. The next one I do will take less than 30 seconds becuase I know what is going on. And I know I will never damage anything.

After everything was said and done I rinsed the CPU off with 90% alcholol to get rid of the Solvoplast(it kinda stinks and is alittle greasy).

You can trust me Angry... then other people will trust what you say

Here is a pic of my 3800 A64 venice. This is my 5th AMD that I have removed the IHS. Generally I can pick up 60-80 more mhz by doing so. However this unit only gave me 40 mhz at slightly higher voltage. Worth it? To some yes. To others no. The easiest method for me is to use a single back razor blade and ROCK it back and forth on each edge working it closer to the middle each time. Takes about 5 minutes taking my time and not one damaged cpu. Proceed at your own risk and don't forget you lose any warranty.

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With IHS-side down, I basically submerged the CPU in Goo Gone up to the base of the pins. I soaked the CPU overnight (about 12 hours). The stuff has a cloying, citrus smell, and the odor filled up my room until I opened up a window and turned on a fan.

Anyway, I rinsed the CPU with 99% (anhydrous) isopropyl alchohol (there's an eBay seller that sells this really pure stuff), and went at it with a thin, double-edge razor blade (with one side taped off with about six layers of masking tape). The hardest part of this procedure is holding the CPU firmly between your thumb and index finger without putting pressure on the edge pins. But I was able to complete everything without bending a single pin.

The easiest place to start is at a corner of the IHS - you can get the corner of the razor in pretty easily there. And it was extremely easy to slice around the peripery. After I got all the way around, I expected the IHS to just lift off (or fall off - I had IHS-side down as I performed this procedure), but it didn't. I assumed that maybe I hadn't cut deeply enough. So I went around a second, third, fourth, and fifth time, cutting a little deeper each time.

The trouble is, I think there's a bit of a vacuum effect, so even though the IHS is completely severed from the CPU, suction is still holding it on. And the razor blade is SO thin, you can't get any leverage with it to pry off the IHS.

So after completing five-circuits around the CPU with the razor with no satisfaction, I got a thin paring knife (MUCH stiffer than the razor) and gently inserted the edge of the blade at one corner (by this point, there were several locations where there was a clear separation between the IHS and CPU). And the IHS just fell off. In retrospect, I probably should have tried this after just a couple of circuits.

It's hard to say what contribution the Goo Gone had - the cutting was very easy, but maybe with this thin razor blade that would have been the case even without soaking the CPU in the solvent.

Just remember to take things very slowly.

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Step by Step removal guide someone asked for:

Use a single edge razor, like those found in paint scrapers. They have a very thin edge, and are knurled on one side... so it gives you something to hang onto.

I started off by pushing the razor under the corners, until it was in through the epoxy. I kept shoving it under all four corners until it moved pretty freely. Then I used a kind of sea-saw motion to work it around to the sides. I left the blade in, and pivoted on the corner as I shoved the blade into the side.

Use back-pressure, so if something gives, you dont ram the blade into the core or anything else. Move as it will let you move. ie: don't force it. The key is to "push" the blade, don't cut or saw your way through.

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My own experience :

Before you do this, ensure the core is not epoxied/soldered to the IHS

thinnest razor blade
pure acetone (solvent grade), unable to acquire Solvoplast
small plastic container, slightly larger than the cpu, thick plastic preffered

Use the thinnest razor blade available, buy a few woman's razor & remove the blade. Men's razor are thicker.

Use fabric type duct tape to tape over one edge of the razor. Apply multiple layers to secure a better grip on the blade.

To soak CPU in acetone for 8-12 hours :
**************************************
Flip CPU so that the IHS is facing down. Place CPU in plastic container.
Slowly fill container with acetone, only up to the PCB. (use teaspoon/dropper)
Ensure acetone does not touch resistors/caps on the other side of the CPU. (some have totally submerged CPU for 16 hrs with no damage)
Cover the container so acetone does not evaporate as quickly.
Top up acetone as required.

After 8-12 hours
****************
Remove CPU
Allow to dry (less than a minute)
If you can : tape the fine power lines/traces on the CPU PCB
Position thin blade at top corner of CPU (no visible power traces there)
Use other hand to *gently* push the CPU *into* the blade (back pressure)
Use the other corner if it doesn't work
Once one corner is penetrated, use small edge of blade to slowly "cut" the sides until all sides & corners are removed

Note
- Never ever force the blade under the IHS
- Never ever scratch the PCB (if you see gold, the CPU is damaged, happened to me.)
- Do not pry the IHS from the CPU, slowly rotate the IHS instead
- If you need to put the CPU on the table to cut it, you're using too much force already.

When IHS is separated
- clean core TIM with acetone or something equivalent
- remove CPU Cover from motherboard socket (there are pics somewhere on the net, easy to do, flip open cover & pry sideways)
- ensure heatsink is the screw-down type (push-pin & clip type will not work)
- cut small pieces & layers of duct tape & tape onto PCB near the core (function as pads for the heatsink)
- ensure layers are lower than core

Achieve average 8-12C lower temps, otherwise re-examine your core-to-heatsink contact.

Thanks for all that info. A lot of those steps are from peoples experiences with Athlon 64 IHS removal I think.
I personally have used a retractable blade before rather than the razors suggested. Much more to grip which I prefer as I get more control. A good craft knife or a scalpal would also be ideal.

Well I recieved my T.R.U.E and I'll post up some pics later as I think I'm going to lap it. Thanks for help so far.

Thermal Right Ultra Extreme arrived and I snapped this pic earlier. It seems to be typical of what people have been experiencing with these. Convex base means the sides fall away lower than the hump in the middle. I'll be lapping this later.


http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stephen...a/DSC00154.JPG

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bail_w

Read your Pm.

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Share your tips with us please. We're curious :)

Its immediate as you start lapping how bad it is. Below pic currently at 1200 grit. I didnt spend that long being an4l about it all rotating it 90 degrees and doing 360 rotations on each grit. I rotated a couple of times up through the grits. I was careful to spend a while on the first grit I used to get it flat. Remarkably, two corners on mine just will not go flat as they literally curl away at an extreme. I am talking like a mm though and its at the very corner of the corner point so would not affect a CPU IHS.

I just need to make a final 1600 grit pass I think and I'm not sure I can be bothered with polishing compund just to get a mirror finish for forum brownie points. Just going to 1600 grit it and be done with it. Its flat = done.


http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stephen...a/DSC00159.JPG

Ok so I finished lapping my TRUE up to 1500 grit. Not like a mirror like some on here, but I can get a reflection clearly off of it. More importantly its flat in absolutely any direction even accross the diagonals now. I am ready to mount this on my e2140 and I'm redy to whip the IHS off, I'm just concerned about the mounting issues some have had with the TRUE, and especially since I am removing IHS. I want there to be enough pressure and it not move at all, but I dont want to crush my naked core. Any advice?

Honestly, what's the gain by removing the IHS? I'm sure Intel has a reason to have it at the first place.

i just received an e4500. did some research found it wasnt soldered and jsut did her up like the AMD days. and bam off it came.. just use some tape to hold the cpu in the socket then mount my water block and whalaaa 20c drop on load, from 70c orthos load to 50c orthos load. with 1,7 volts :eek: :D love getting cheap ass cpus. :yepp: :rofl:

Peace, Love & Respect.........:up:

I just removed the soldered IHS from my Intel 3.2ghz northwood cpu. Firstly took apart a womans shaver and used the flexible blades to cut through the glue thing. Once all around I tried to lift it but couldnt. I then found out that the die was soldered to the IHS. Instead of heating it up with something I simply installed the CPU and ran it without a fan. The computer turns itself off at 90 degrees, checked that before hand, so around the temp. at which the solder melts. Some source said it melts at 85. So as soon as the pc turns itself off I took a screwdriver and pushed the IHS off. Then left it to cool and with lapped the die. I did this because the solder which melted dropped off in metal ball.

Probably wouldnt try this with my new Q6600 :D

Is removing this thing would drop us that much of temps?

I was checking a e2140 tonight, it was flat. As far as I could tell it was flat, using a razor blade and holding it up to the light, there was no leakage, trying different angles across the top as far as i could tell was flat as.

I used the same razor on a GPU heatsink i was lapping on the weekend so i know the razor is good. Are all CPU's supposed to be concave or only some. I'd bank on that this one is flat. good temps too, 30's under TT BT idle 56 load.

I tried lapping my IHS and if you do it on the sandpaper, you can see that the edges come off first then the middle part.

Here is a pic of my old X3210 with the IHS grinded of.

I tried to remove the IHS from my 2180 today but had no luck. I couldn't even get the razor blades under the 4 corners :(

Heres my E2140.

http://shrani.si/t/3T/4t/2Qd5AKai/dscn0773.jpg http://shrani.si/t/1C/v0/1EynH5AZ/dscn0774.jpg

Its hard to cut into the rubber sealant because its application is very thin, much thinner than on A64 chips. I have used a fresh razorblade for the action. In order to succed you must cut very low, very near the PCB itself and then tilt the razorblade upwards so you don't cut the traces accidentaly.

thats awesome work tiborrr what results are you seeing from the chip without the IHS?
It looks as though the IHS is not soldered on. Which is a good thing (or bad depending on what your doing with your cpu)

i wrecked two e4300's doing this while using a utility knife blade (what a noob)
Anyway, just take your time, go slow, work at the corners, and make sure your using a RAZOR BLADE (not a utility knife blade which is much thicker.)

chatmaster - somehow i haven't had time to test the temperatures after the procedure, since my DFI died, i will try it tommorow with the P5KC i just bought. After the IHS removal i reapplied the lid back on when the chip was in socket (AS ceramique TIM used) and put it under 2-stage cascade. Unfortunately the P5K doesnt show negative temperatures so you will have to wait for a day or two for me to take proper measurements :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nanok

Here is a pic of my old X3210 with the IHS grinded of.

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That is just damn cool, was it soldered?

Do you think cpu without HS can take Tuniq or Gemin2 or something?

Wouldn't be bad idea to use some kind of shim with it!

I was thinking to remove mine too but instead i was wondering, could a stock intel cooler be on the cpu without the IHS?

Hope so but im not for sure...... it would realy suck if the stock cooler wont fit anymore :(

you could always remove the lid. http://thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=23

btw, why would u use the stock cooler?

Been there done that... a naked e6600... temps only dropped 3c though... ah well 3c is enough :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lowfat

I tried to remove the IHS from my 2180 today but had no luck. I couldn't even get the razor blades under the 4 corners :(

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you have to force it in.

Did my e2160 today... it wasn't too bad to do. I was more nervous than anything, but once I got into it, I was determined. In the end, the chip survived and is now topless.

I started off with a standard razor blade, like one used in box cutters or scrapers... but then realized it was too thick. So I broke out a triple blade razor (generic Target brand) and took the blades out. They are perfect for this job. I was able to slide it under one corner and just cut around. Quite simple once I got it under. I think I could do another chip in a matter of minutes now.

To confirm, my e2160 wasn't soldered to the IHS, they seemed to use the same thing ASUS uses on the NB. Some sort of Thermal Gum/Soft Epoxy.

As for temperature results... I haven't got that far yet, I am having issued with mounting the heatsink without the IHS, I have come up with a plan, just haven't finished yet. I will update once I have results.

Yup, i got like 3-4degC temperature drop after reapplying the IHS with some AS Ceramique TIM. Well, better than nothing :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Boogerlad

you could always remove the lid. http://thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=23

btw, why would u use the stock cooler?

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Cuz my optional cooling aint done yet :)
And i want to see what i can do with the stock cooler and then every degree lower should help :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TheMysticWizard

To confirm, my e2160 wasn't soldered to the IHS, they seemed to use the same thing ASUS uses on the NB. Some sort of Thermal Gum/Soft Epoxy.

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How thick does that slop look between the die and IHS? Is it 8800 cooler style thick or ???

I have a 2180 that I suspect is needing some work such as you are doing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AndyM

How thick does that slop look between the die and IHS? Is it 8800 cooler style thick or ???

I have a 2180 that I suspect is needing some work such as you are doing.

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Did you pull the NB cooler off your Asus board? It looks like that... like they applied a square a little bigger than the core that was about 1/32 inch thick.

Atleast that's how mine looked.

Why would your remove the ISH, with a geminii and 2 120mm fans my E2140 (ES) will hit a load temp of 34C at with a 2.9Ghz overclock

Maybe cuz 2.9GHz aint enough :clap:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by STEvil

place a razor under each edge giving very slight pressure. If it is soldered then it will stay in place. Heat it with the razors under the edges and it will pop off at the correct temperature.

Keeps you from overheating the CPU.

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stevil is %100 correct,listen to him...:up:

Come on guys im dying to find out what your temperatures are like and if you can break through the FSB walls.

I got my hands on a second hand e6300 that im planning to lap @ 1.4v its 72*C +

cant get the blade under any corner

this is bad. i soaked it in nail polish remover all night, and now im sure its in it too. HAVE to remove the IHS.

i even tried cutting it under the rubber sealant. no luck. any ideas?

@ LightSpeed

You should be able to get a really thin shaving-blade under there. It's like trying to cut a hole in a tire with a toothpick at first, so you will need to use a good amount of force. The rubber-glue (black stuff in this pic):

http://shrani.si/t/3T/4t/2Qd5AKai/dscn0773.jpg

will be the same on your's, so be really, really carefull not to put the blade in the center where the core is. My first try with this, was on an old celly, and i did manage to break the core in the corners, not realizing what i was doing (untill i heard the crunching sound of the blade scraping the core).

It's really a matter of having the right tools for this operation. Look in you'r household (or go buy some) razorblades (shaving-blades), of different size and thinkness. Once you get a small blade, just about ½ a mm in under the IHS, then apply upward, and outwards pressure. You should when be able to get some of the black rubber glue out from under it, and it you are lucky, you can get a more solid blade under there (one you can apply more pressure to).

From there on, it's a matter of patience. You will get it off eventually.

Remember, that once you can get a blade under the IHS all the way around, you need to heat up the IHS, so the solder between the core and the IHS will let go. You can use a household hairdrier for this operation.

Good luck!

thanks!

but but but, i scraped a little bit of green right at the edge, revealing gold. i guess that is the end of my e2140:(


no electrical wires/whatever its called is there tho. lets see what happens

i managed to get the blade under two corners. two more to go. seems difficult, i guess this razorblade isnt thin enough, but i wonder how it can possibly be thinner than this

Use women razors instead of mens. They are thin and flexible.

You only have to get it under 1 corner then just slide across all the other sides when the corner off the razor is betweens te chip and the IHS, this should go easy..... And with some green popped off your cpu won't be death ;)

ok, i might sound like a complete noob, but after removing 3 A64 IHS's, this is very weird

i always used a mens blade. soaked the cpu in nail polish remover, and started cutting the four corners, slowly working my way towards the middle

here, however, the rubber sealant is VERY thin. pushing the blade in was very hard, and i can NOT move the blade (hence i cant cut towards the middle) after i push the blade in. i guess a thinner blade is the only way to go. can anyone post pics of blades they have used to remove core2 ihs?

if i take a blade out of a triple blade razor, i cant apply enough pressure to cut because the blades are too flexible, hence they wobble

i feel stupid. never even had to post for A64 IHS. grr@intel

thanks for all the replies!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LightSpeed

ok, i might sound like a complete noob, but after removing 3 A64 IHS's, this is very weird

i always used a mens blade. soaked the cpu in nail polish remover, and started cutting the four corners, slowly working my way towards the middle

here, however, the rubber sealant is VERY thin. pushing the blade in was very hard, and i can NOT move the blade (hence i cant cut towards the middle) after i push the blade in. i guess a thinner blade is the only way to go. can anyone post pics of blades they have used to remove core2 ihs?

if i take a blade out of a triple blade razor, i cant apply enough pressure to cut because the blades are too flexible, hence they wobble

i feel stupid. never even had to post for A64 IHS. grr@intel

thanks for all the replies!

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why do you soak the cpu in nail polish remover?

the A64 silicone or whatever they put between the IHS and chip gets softer, or atleast thats what ive heard. and it hasnt damaged a chip so far. nail polish remover has acetone, so it can be a substitute to pure acetone, albeit less strong

i finally cut one side of the chip. the top part of the cpu seems hard, theres this plastic thing over there. how did u guys cut that part?

plastic thing? what you mean?

nvm, the rubber on the top of the cpu seemed a lot harder to cut

its just a matter of getting the right tools, honestly. someone said it in his post. its easy tho, a very, very thin blade is required.

gna power up the cpu in a bit. hope for the best, i hve a feeling its dead

thanks for all the help everyone, very much appreciated :)

I removed the IHS on my 6300.
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/7...0985dh2.th.jpg
The processor is 100% functional, but no difference in the temperature.
I used a cutter and lighter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JamesBong420

i just received an e4500. did some research found it wasnt soldered and jsut did her up like the AMD days. and bam off it came.. just use some tape to hold the cpu in the socket then mount my water block and whalaaa 20c drop on load, from 70c orthos load to 50c orthos load. with 1,7 volts :eek: :D love getting cheap ass cpus. :yepp: :rofl:

Peace, Love & Respect.........:up:

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Sound's worth a try, I'm stuck at 3.4GHz due to thermals, have booted at 3.7GHz (410x9) and made it to Windows at 3.6GHz (400x9). What's your E4500 running at?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lowfat

I tried to remove the IHS from my 2180 today but had no luck. I couldn't even get the razor blades under the 4 corners :(

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dude your probably using a utility knife blade, get a razor from your local hardware store, not a utility knife blade

Okay, Results are in.

Now before someone says my temps are awful high, my room is constantly at 72-74*F (22-23*c). This is my secondary computer, therefore I tried to put very little money into it and used pieces I had laying around from upgrades and such to my main system. The case flow leaves little to be desired, 2-80mm Intake fans, 1-120 Exhaust, plus the 80mm PSU fan. The CPU is being cooled by a cheap Cooler Master Hyper TX2 and is running at 3.0 GHz (333 x 9) at 1.442 Vcore (Actual, under full load via DVM). This e2160 is running on a Asus P5B Dlx (rma'd from asus) which has been v-droop modded, the board is otherwise stock, down to the cooling.

Originally my temps were between 68-69*c under full load, this remained steady after several mounts with AS5. These temps seemed VERY high to me especially since I'm not pushing THAT much voltage to the chip.

Once I pulled the IHS off and got the heatsink mounting resolved, I am now seeing 55-56*c under full load, same voltage and everything. This seems much more reasonable to me. I am guessing Intel really fudged up the Thermal "Gum" under the IHS if I am seeing this much of a difference.

So in the end... about 13*c difference.

Here's some pictures, sorry for the bad quality.

Before. Bad Pic, sorry...
http://home.comcast.net/~themysticwi...160/before.jpg

Un-Capped:
http://home.comcast.net/~themysticwi...2160/uncap.jpg

Cleaned up Die:
http://home.comcast.net/~themysticwi...0/cleandie.jpg

Was it worth it? In my opinion, yes.
Was it hard? No, not really, I was just a bit nervous doing it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TheMysticWizard

Was it worth it? In my opinion, yes.
Was it hard? No, not really, I was just a bit nervous doing it.

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Nice work! Looks like a phase-change pad instead of solder, bad Intel, bad bad Intel, lol.

Looking at this makes me want to some surgury on the gf's 2180 doing 3.2 Ghz on 1.4vcore but at ~70C top Orthos temps (should be lower for sure compared to how my E6600 was using the same parts). Thanks for the test!

do you think i could do it on my e6750? I am going to put it under liquid cooling. Ps, the socket can block the cpu once the ihs is removed?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by initialised

Sound's worth a try, I'm stuck at 3.4GHz due to thermals, have booted at 3.7GHz (410x9) and made it to Windows at 3.6GHz (400x9). What's your E4500 running at?

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im running 1.7v load 3.7ghz. 3.82ghz 1.76v load. its a cheap cpu and havent had any issues yet lol :p:

also my chip doesnt like more then 412 fsb. these 4500s are so lame on the fsb. so im doing 380x10 or 412x9

what about E4300 cpu's are they solded or with thermal paste ? anyone tryied with E4300 i want to uncap him and see if it will give me more Mhz

I figured I would share my results since I got the idea to remove the spreader from this thread and it helped a lot. I have a e2180 and I was able to remove it quite easily with a sharp, thin, flat razor.

Before the removal I was able to oc it to a max fsb of 425. Afterwords the max fsb didnt change but max oc did. Previously I was able to get 3537, so thats 9x393 @ 1.5v with the vcore drop control disabled. I have a DFI P35-T2R, in my opinion best board to oc with. I use a lapped big typhoon with the stock slow fan. Temps would be 37 idle 85+ load.

After the removal I can oc to 3700 with temps 33 idle and 74 load but thats with a vcore of 1.575v.

At the previous oc and 1.5vcore the load temp dromped a massive 20 deg C:shocked:

Intel really screwed up on these heatdpreaders.
Wojtek

I´ve done it too. Got 5-10 deg. lower temps with my lapped zigmatek

How i wish intel offered a topless Q6600 out of the box

Dunno wot the fuss is all bout


seems soo darned simple


im not doin it though, i just lapped
all that lapping for nothing? naa, i keep the top on!

How are all you guys securing the CPU's into the socket without the IHS?

Do you use tape then screw the HSF down further to compensate?

Do you have to modify the socket much? take off the hat piece that goes around the CPU sides?

Do these core look identical to the 4mb cache cores? disabled cache?

I took the clamp off, easy. Then I places 4 circular stick on foamy dampers on each corner of the cpu itself. Then screw the tt typhoon on to the die itself. I found it that the pads were needed on the corners for the hs to push down on the cpu. It would not boot otherwise suggesting poor conductivity somewhere.:shakes:

I'm think that i'm going to do this to mine E2160. It doesn't boot anymore. I was making it straight with sandpapers 400->600->800 and 1000. After 400 paper it does boot and works fine but next time i tried it (after 1000 paper) it doesn't give picture or anything. I will try E2160 at my friends motherboard and if it doesn't work, i think i try this. There's maybe something under IHS (or so i think), maybe there is something like copper "dust" under it. Do you think it might still wake up? Or is the all hope lost ;/ ... Sorry, my English suck :( , but hope you understand all. Ask if you don't, I'll try explain it better = )

How should the dust come under the IHS? I don't think so.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Moc

How should the dust come under the IHS? I don't think so.

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There is a small hole, right above the code imprinted on the substrate, but there is no circuitry under the IHS - the copper dust would have nothing to short, if it really got there.

this is a great guide, I may do it to my 2160.

conflicting posts though... is removing IHS only good for air + water cooling?

I am going to be using DICE (with one of Duniek's pots) and if it makes no difference then I will just leave the top on

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TheKarmakazi

this is a great guide, I may do it to my 2160.

conflicting posts though... is removing IHS only good for air + water cooling?

I am going to be using DICE (with one of Duniek's pots) and if it makes no difference then I will just leave the top on

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I get the feeling that you could leave your top on. With such extreme cooling as Dice. It doesnt matter much if you get minus 46 or minus 50.

You also make your cpu much more fragile if remove the ihs, not so good for exprimental mounting metods used with a heavy Dice container.

I only got 2-4 C better cooling on air with the ihs removed, I think on Dice you probobly wont even notice any difference.


But anyway, I could be wrong. Since these chips are so inexpensive you can afford to gamble a bit with em.

How I removed IHS:

I got ~8C lower temps, but with less noise (Freezer 7 Pro @1800rpm, before it was 2300-2500rpm). With same amount of noise, I guess difference would be bigger.

In begining:
http://www.imagesforme.com/out.php/t69546_IMG1127.jpghttp://www.imagesforme.com/out.php/t69548_IMG1133.jpg

After 20min:
http://www.imagesforme.com/out.php/t69549_IMG1136.jpghttp://www.imagesforme.com/out.php/t69550_IMG1142.jpg
You could notice a little scratch in the upper right corner, fortunately there isn't anything. I was very lucky, CPU is still 100% stable.

Very important thing is to remove this:
http://www.imagesforme.com/out.php/t69547_IMG1130.jpg
as stated in this thread:
http://thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=23

That was first attempt, because I didn't have cooler with bolt-thru mechanism, base didn't touch core, so i had to wait 'till I manage to work this out. :D

2 days ago, I attempted to finish this mod:
http://www.imagesforme.com/out.php/t77518_ihs002.jpg
First I isolated mbo from getting scrached. :)

Further:
http://www.imagesforme.com/out.php/t77517_ihs001.jpg
How it looks like from above.

Now, some foam to protect core and to distribute force evenly:
http://www.imagesforme.com/out.php/t77519_ihs004.jpg

It was necessary to tighten the upper two screws much more than lower two, because cooler was hanging a bit and contact was bad, temps rose up to 70C.

Unfortunately, I don't have pictures with cooler instaled, I was pretty nervous to get this done. :D

In the end, CPU needs slightly less voltage for 3200MHz: instead 1.384V it is enough 1.368V. :) Also, it is stable on 3350MHz @1.44V, bit it's too much for 24/7, altough temps are 55-56C, just like 3200MHz @1.384V prior to IHS removal.

SRV thats an awesome post!
What cooler are you running? Did you get through the fsb wall? what motherboard are you running?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chatmaster

SRV thats an awesome post!
What cooler are you running? Did you get through the fsb wall? what motherboard are you running?

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Thanks. :)

It's Asus P5B Rev. 1.04 mbo (vdroop pencil mod) with AC Freezer 7 Pro cooler.

FSB wall is between 380-390MHz going from BIOS, but in windows when using SetFSB, about 430-440MHz, I didn't dig too much into that.

definately awesome post! now i'm gonna try on my pentium 4! with a torch of course.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Boogerlad

definately awesome post! now i'm gonna try on my pentium 4! with a torch of course.

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You can use boiled water, much safer. ;)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ht=ihs+removal

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MichelinGuy

You can use boiled water, much safer. ;)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ht=ihs+removal

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Or sand it (not just lapping) till the metal is gone and yo see the naked core. I'm gonna try that on my Celeron 430.

hmm, this might be a good idea...

because i lapped 2x e2160 which was concaved till its pretty much flat, but load temps did not change before and after mod, idle temp improved by 1~2c, will try removing the IHS when i reinstall my rig in the next 3 or 4 days

IMHO sanding off the IHS is a better idea because the part which is glued to the CPU(near the edges of the package) is still there and could protect the core(s) from breaking due to too much and/or unevenly distributed force applied from the cooler. Also the process itself seems safer as there's no risk of cutting off some of the processor's internal circuirty.:up:Just be careful not to sand off some of the core along with the IHS ;)