New Mozart TX Dual Loop Build with Lots of Pics

Hi everyone, good day and welcome to my build log.

I've found more answers and good info here than anywhere else on the 'net, so out of thanks to the great posters I'm going to document my latest build here on xtremesystems.

My build will be based on the Mozart TX case from Thermaltake and will have the following design goals:

a) clean clean clean - through an iterative process I intend to hide as much wiring as possible and generally keep everthing super-tidy and neat. I will cut wires to length once the build is finalized, sleeve everything, use hold-downs, etc.

b) no major metalwork - this will be a custom build using mostly off-the-shelf stuff and modding the case will only be done when it makes sense for fitment (for instance making the doors easily removeable or adding fillports to the top)

e) balance between silence and performance adjustable but leaning mostly toward performance as a dedicated gaming machine

f) able to run a 30" monitor at 2560x1600 res with current games at ~60fps or better (I like vsync!)

g) simple maintenance - fillports and drainports so I can flush it just like a car!

h) COMPLETELY 100% internal cooling - applies to clean clean clean above :)

i) visually interesting - have a couple features in mind to give it an 'oooh' factor for laypeople / bystanders

j) lights up like a freaking carnival at the touch of a button - I've long hated LED fans and cold cathodes, I mostly find them irritating and annoying but I guess in my old age I'm relenting - but I must be able to turn off all lights/leds/blinky stuff instantly so it doesn't blind me while trying to watch movies on the projector!

k) 100 percent stable in games - looking for a high overclock, but not at the expense of stability. This is meant to be a gaming monster, not a benchmark queen lol :clap:


So some equipment has arrived and I did a dry build just make sure no RMAs were necessary. I've played the entirety of HL2:EP2 on it and found that just because 3DMark06 runs all night long, doesn't mean you're stable :D After an hour of HL2:EP2 you will find that 'stable' overclock wasn't so stable after all ...

Here is a component list, most of it is either here or on its way:

Thermaltake MozartTx VE1000SWA Silver Aluminum Cube Tower Computer Case
Sunbeam RHK-S Rheobus 20W Fan Controller (Silver)
ASUS P5N32-E SLI Plus LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 650i SLI ATX Intel Motherboard
2x Foxconn FV-N88XMAD2-ONOC GeForce 8800GTX 768MB 384-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported OverClock Video Card - Retail
SILVERSTONE DA750 ATX12V / EPS12V 750W Power Supply 100 - 240 V
Intel Core 2 Duo E6420 Conroe 2.13GHz 4M shared L2 Cache LGA 775 Processor - Retail
Atech Flash Xm-4U 11-in-1 USB 2.0 Black & Silver Internal card reader - Retail
2x G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail
Western Digital Raptor WD1500ADFD 150GB 10,000 RPM 16MB Cache Serial ATA150 Hard Drive - OEM
(more drives later, probably 750GB Hitachis, nearly as fast as Raptors)
LITE-ON Black 20X DVD+R LH-20A1S
2x EK High Performance Full Coverage Nvidia GeForce 8800 GTX Series Water Block
Swiftech APOGEE GTX Extreme Performance Universal Water-block
2x Magicool Extreme Slim Profile 2X120mm Radiator - Black
120mm rad gaskets
2x Swiftech MCP350 12 VDC Pump
2x Alphacool Cape Bullseye PRO [BE-II] POM reservoir
2x Alphacool Cape Bullseye Bay Mount
2x Alphacool Melvin Pipe
2x EK Asus 1 Mosfet Water Block for ASUS Motherboards LGA 775
2x EK-NB/SB ASUS 1 Chipset Block - LGA 775 ASUS Motherboards
EK TIM Pads for FC8800 (for mosfets maybe)
8x Scythe S-FLEX SFF21F 120mm Case Fan - Retail (push-pull on both rads)
6x Scythe S-FLEX SFF21E 120mm Case Fan - Retail (probably replace the power supply fan with one too)
Arctic Silver Ceramique
Primoflex 3/8"ID x 1/2"OD
Koolance Reusable Hose Clamp [10mm, 3/8"]
Koolance Misc 3/8" fittings (compression, mostly)


And finally, the moment you've all been waiting for (thanks if you read this far lol), the PICS!: :clap:

(keep in mind this is a work in progress and will probably take me a fairly long time due to my limited schedule, I will update as I go)

http://brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/i..._build_001.jpg
Some parts
http://brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/i..._build_002.jpg
Case looks like a small beer fridge :)
http://brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/i..._build_003.jpg
It has wings!
http://brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/i..._build_004.jpg
Lots of room for junk
http://brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/i..._build_005.jpg
Look ma no hands!
http://brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/i..._build_006.jpg
Face off
http://brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/i..._build_007.jpg
Ridiculous room
http://brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/i..._build_008.jpg
Drive cage
http://brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/i..._build_009.jpg
Faceplate is thick, sturdy aluminum
http://brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/i..._build_010.jpg
Mobo stuff
http://brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/i..._build_011.jpg
Core 2 Duo is cheap performance!
http://brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/i..._build_012.jpg
Not even close to stable at factory-overclocked speeds (630/1000). Hopefully water will alleviate this, maybe even get higher
http://brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/i..._build_013.jpg
Simple no-frills, don't-care dry build (I don't wanna hear it!)
http://brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/i..._build_014.jpg
Nicest power supply I've seen yet (Silverstone DA750)

Next installment whenever I find some time to tinker :up:

Oh btw, please comment on the size of these pictures? Originals are HUGE, is this big enough or too big? I'm doing the hosting so I can go crazy if you want ...

Perfect sized pics, and very nice build there! Dang, I would have sold you my P5N32-E SLI Plus for cheap... oh well, if you ever need a replacement, PM me!

nice... but where's the wc gear lol

My Rad design for your reference

PA120.3 + PA120.2 External

cool ! looks sweet!

love it. MOre pics

Quote:

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Originally Posted by disruptfam

nice... but where's the wc gear lol

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:p: water!!

looking good

Awsome!!!! ive been waiting for a Mozart TX build! good luck!

Nice case! Looking forward to more pics.

/Subscribed. Can't wait to see it done. :D

Nice mountain bike :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IanY

Nice mountain bike :)

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Expensive, yes, but it a cross-country bike... eww... Freeriding is where it's at!:D

I'll be doing a very similar build. Already got the case, stock components, and some of the WC gear, just ordered the rest.

I have an idea for a custom solution for 2x 2x120mm rad mounting though. I'll have to wait & see how badly I'd have to hack up the upper rear 2x2 fan area before I decide if I'll have to mod it or not.

I'll have to keep an eye on your build.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcoffey

Great project and Welcome,

I've got that case and I run a 30in at 2560X1600. But, I couldn't get a build in it that met those same requirements so I had to move to another case.

To get a hi end system water cooled and keep everything clean and internal will be quite the under taking, so gl to you and keep the pics coming. I couldn't do it so I'm very interested in your build progess and pics.

andyc

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You tried to do 3 loops?

I was thinking going SLI,
PA120.3/ 2xGPU (External)
PA120.2/CPU (External)
Adding PA120.1/ Chipsets,Mosfet,Ram,HDs to the Harddisk area, since all my disks will go the the left compartment, i dont need the HD case.

SO i want to ask, is it worth it to go SLI? Big difference?
Now im going single on maximus board and mostly online FPS games in 30in LCD

TKS``

Hehe, thanks for the positive vibe everyone. I'm pretty stoked on getting it together too! I just started a new job tho so things are gonna be slow. It will get done ... just be patient :yepp:

As far as gaming goes, SLI is absolutely required for a 30" monitor. The native res of 2560x1600 means you will be GPU-limited if you don't go SLI. At lower resolutions you really don't need it (yet) for good framerates in modern games, but at that high res you'll be lucky to get ~30fps in most games with a single card. Keep in mind that I'm talking about maxing all the settings cause that's what I consider true gaming. You could get away with a single GTX if you were willing to crank settings down a notch or two ... that's what I'm doing with my current in-use system and it runs most stuff ok. Just not fantastic.

With 8800gtx SLI and this system on air, I can play COD 4 with everything, I mean EVERYTHING maxed out on my HP 30", and get a minimum of ~50fps. Most of the time it's in the hundreds, however I like to use vsync so 60fps is happyland for me. With water I'm hoping to get a minimum of 60fps in everything since I should be able to overclock it significantly higher. In retrospect I probably should have gone with the Ultras instead of GTXs since their pricing is not as ridiculous anymore. Oh well it's an easy swap :)


My bike is a GIANT NRS-C1, with a carbon frame it's super light and has enough travel for my limited riding. I'm no pro lol so mad travel would just make me work harder. I ride mostly x-country in the mountains nearby, but it's too damn cold now so it will sit inside for a while and I'll get fatter :rolleyes:


I can't imagine how you couldn't fit even the most extreme build into this case, there is just so much ridiculous room in there! Oh well I hope what I do gives you some ideas so you can try it again.

As far as mounting rads, after tons of online research I was unable to find out exactly what the spacing is for the holes on the back. So I just decided to buy the g0ddamn thing and find out!

The spacing is a square, 240x240mm. In other words, you can stick 4 120mm fans up there and they will all be touching with no space in between. This of course limits rad selection tremendously, as most rads are > 120mm wide. I found the Magicool Extreme Slim Profile rad at Performance-Pcs and I think it will do the trick since it's exactly 120mm wide. We'll see, it should be here next week!

Anyhow I will have more pics soon, I have just completed modding the Sunbeam Rheobus into the 7" drive bay. Needed the room down below (only 5 bays are exposed) plus it just looks a whole lot cleaner.

More soon, please be patient :)

Looks cool, never noticed that case before...
Oh don't think Crysis will run @ 60 fps or more with ALL settings maxed and very high :p:
It tends to be VERY powerhungry ;)

Yeah, I have a Specialized Demo 7 (bike). Awesome bike, I can hit some pretty big drops on it (5-6ft. range). I also race downhill, and that's pretty fun also.

Cut the back of the case, make an aluminum plate to mount two pa120s side by side and then pop rivet the plate to the case with the rads inside.

No but I'll take some later today. I have 2 gtx240s in mine I wish I had pa120.2s instead, but if I did the fans would have to mount outside the case due to the tc rads being thicker.

Im so tempted to get one of these Cases for an Ultimate Air cooling solution with loads of space. I would have to spray the case black though and get the version without the window as i really dont like silver cases or cases with windows.

Mine is black with no windows but they all have the same front.

Yea i was just going to buy it and then respray it black, i still might just get one at the end of the month because i have a couple hundred £ spare and have always looked at buying that case purely because there is so much you can do with it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scubar

Im so tempted to get one of these Cases for an Ultimate Air cooling solution with loads of space. I would have to spray the case black though and get the version without the window as i really dont like silver cases or cases with windows.

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Just get a MM.:up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcoffey

got any pics of that or a build log, be nice to see.

andyc

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Here's a few pics. (I live in a dust factory)

I cut this with a jig saw. It's kinda sloppy but I never look at this side.
Attachment 67054
Attachment 67055
Attachment 67056
Attachment 67057

There's another 50z in the bottom of the 5.25 drive bays.
It's one big loop. Pump/8800gtx/rad/cpu/pump/rad/and back to the bottom pump with a T just before each pump for fill, drain and air removal.
The rads I have require to much airflow so I use the noisy fans.
PA120.2s are the way to go, with quiet fans mounted outside the case.

Not keen on Mountain Mod cases, All of them are cubes which i dont really like the look of.

I'm also a fan of 18 cent a foot 1/2" tubing from my local hardware store.
It stays clear and works as good as the expensive stuff for me.

Cant even find the TT Mozart TX Silver w/no window in the uk :(

Anyone know where i could get the one without the window because all the TT approved dealers dont have that model only the window models.

That Rad mod you have done is really good btw.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scubar

Not keen on Mountain Mod cases, All of them are cubes which i dont really like the look of.

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This TT is pretty square too... :P

Its more rectangle because of its height though instead of just being a small square on wheels :)

Hi all, as promised here is another quick update. I installed the Sunbeam Rheobus fan controller into the (oh so worthless) 7" drive bay. This bay is meant for some gimmicky bull:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana: that I'll never use so I figured I would make it more useful. Plus I need the space down below ;-)

I also modded the LEDs by adding a 12k resistor to each. Easy since they plug right into a connector on the Rheobus board. The LEDs are STILL quite bright, I may have to try a different kind of LED since I like them super mellow ... or I might try sanding down the LEDs until they're flat and maybe using some superglue to make them more opaque ...

The rest of my water cooling gear should arrive on Tuesday, hopefully I'll be able to get started with that next week. Until then, hang tight!

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...beam_mod01.jpg
Panel removed and LEDs modded
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...beam_mod02.jpg
Cut off and modified supports
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...beam_mod03.jpg
Dremel some holes (a steady hand I have not)
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...beam_mod04.jpg
Ready for fitment
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...beam_mod05.jpg
Top view
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...beam_mod06.jpg
In the case
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...beam_mod07.jpg
Looks better than stock after some touch-up paint

wow nice job

lookin' good! keep em' coming! :-)

I personally don't like those old fashion fan control knob. may be you can consider some auto control via temp like Aquaero or BigNg..etc. Expensive but worth it.
Remember to put some noise pad for look and noise. I put my pump on it.

Here's my work if you dont mine sharing your post. Still waiting few part for the second loop.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcoffey

got any pics of that or a build log, be nice to see.

andyc

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Found one but in chinese tho, may be create account needed
http://bbs.ocqq.com/viewthread.php?t...=mozart&page=1

For myself, i just drill some new holes, that's all, no cutting

how's that enzo cpu block? good?

could you take some more internal shot's of your hardware please cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by disruptfam

how's that enzo cpu block? good?

could you take some more internal shot's of your hardware please cheers

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The D-tek usually sits at 30-31 idle, the Enzo sits at 28C most of the time. But i have changed new coolant and updated my bios between that. SO im not sure if that have effect the temp diff. The new bios said cpu temp sensor will be updated for more accurate measurement. Well, at least it is not worst that D-tek, look better, strong backplate, good built quality, no nozzle need, no gap problem..etc. NO excuse not to buy it:up:

That's all i got now, the second loop still waiting for some parts to come, hose, fitting, temp sensor, Ultra X3, 2 x Silentstar HD-single Block( Can only fit one double at the top slot where you can install a LCD, have to order another 2 single HD Block)

The second loop will be:
Loop2(1/4): DDC+3.2(Petra Top) -> PA120.2 -> MIPS RAM Freezer4 -> Asus fusion chipsets block -> Silentstar HD-Dual Block 1 -> Silentstar HD-single Block 2A -> Silentstar HD-single Block 2B -> Pumps cooled by Alphacool HDD3CU/Plexi 3.5" HD Block -> EK-RES150

The pump set will be sitting on other side of the case, still struggling if i should add the third loop, PA120.1 or PA120.2 fits to the harddisk compartment(Since all my HD will go 5.25 compartment, but not sure if the PA fits over there) and change to SLI. But its difficult to place the third pump set plus i dont like internal rad, it might heat up the internal temp, what ya think? should i do it....or do it all with 2 loop...

This is my first build, 2 months ago i am looking at the us299 Kit, now spend almost few G now, worst that drug. :help:

Nice mod, and the Enzotech block looks pretty spiffy...:up:

Fuzion with nozzles and bow spank the Enzo block.

nikhsub1's testing results

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Fuzion with nozzles and bow spank the Enzo block.

nikhsub1's testing results

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Pretty much the best around right now, at least thebest that is publicly available.

Thanks for the pics of the 2 different dual-rad setups. I was planning on doing the first one, with the custom aluminum plate (already have some 1/16" aluminum here on-hand), but the 2nd version with the rad grills looks cleaner.


As for original poster, I like the fanbus work, looks clean. I was wondering what I was going to do with that spot myself, and planned on possibly going with a custom bay res with Danger Den fillports coming out the top recessed area.

Okay, let's get started! Here's some pics of the gear I'll be using:

a) Sythe s-flex fans with super-crazy 150,000 hour MTBF
b) MCP350 pumps, quiet but powerful
c) Apogee GTX, one of the better coolers available and super easy to install
d) Sweet little keyboard and cheap but functional MS Scroll Mouse
e) Magicool Extreme Slim Profile radiators - what makes these special is their 120mm width - allowing for a clean install without modding my Mozart case at all!

Notice that the 2 rads are different. They are the same model, but apparently different production runs. I have since replaced the silver-finish one (steel riveted housing) with another all-black one (thanks to Performance-PCs for great service)

The newer version is much cleaner, has no rivets, and the screw holes are tapped better. Make sure if you order one you get the newer version.

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...onents_001.jpg
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...onents_002.jpg
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...onents_003.jpg

Work is kicking my ass, and family life is very busy but I am making progress. More soon!

Sunayknits, is that rig up and running at the moment (even if it's only on air)? If it is (or if you're going to test it soon), can you do me a big favour and really load out that PSU? Ie Prime95/Orthos/OCCT on CPU + ATI Tool's Artifact Tester or Fur Benchmark on the GPUs. The DA units (mainly 550, 650, 750 and 850 watt units, revision 1.0 or 2.0, but not 1.5 or 2.5) sometimes have a problem with making a fairly noticeable whine when under load. It'd be interesting to see if yours has that "problem". If it does, don't bother trying to RMA it back to Silverstone, they tend to be a bit anal about whine RMAs.

Looking like a very nice build log.

Eller

I've had it drawing up to 500 watts from the wall (HL Episode 2), and have not noticed any kind of whine/noise whatsoever.

I have since replaced it with a DA850 (used the DA750 for another build) and it's just as quiet.

These are the quietest, highest quality power supplies I have ever used.

Bought them both from NewEgg, so likely they have the latest version.

Can the server board like tyan or Skulltrail fit in this case?

no, it is not big enough. the e-atx is 12x13, versus atx 12x9.6.

to fit a skulltrail/tyan you need a g70/a70, a mountainmods, or a tj0x case. im sure there are others, I wont list them all though

Another fantastic build :up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG

no, it is not big enough. the e-atx is 12x13, versus atx 12x9.6.

to fit a skulltrail/tyan you need a g70/a70, a mountainmods, or a tj0x case. im sure there are others, I wont list them all though

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How about Lian 343B??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mildseven7

How about Lian 343B??

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:up: :up:

Listen to the man ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by .Logic

:up: :up:

Listen to the man ;)

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DO u mean Tyan/Skulltrail fits on Lian 343B?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mildseven7

DO u mean Tyan/Skulltrail fits on Lian 343B?

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Sorry, my above post may have been a bit misleading, I have no idea whether or not the 343B fits Tyran/Skulltrial. It was merely an emphatic display of my incredible love of the 343B and thus should probably considered spam. Oops :shakes:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mildseven7

DO u mean Tyan/Skulltrail fits on Lian 343B?

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no - dont think so, as ST mobos are 12x13 i think.. 343B onl takes 12x9.6...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tiro_uspsss

no - dont think so, as ST mobos are 12x13 i think.. 343B onl takes 12x9.6...

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Thx:up:

After staring at this case for what seemed like an eternity, I finally came to some conclusions.

I decided to mod the case to support my WC build, and add a couple nice features for cleanliness/simplicity:

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...ermods_001.jpg
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...ermods_002.jpg
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...ermods_003.jpg

Naked case, just for reference


http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...ermods_004.jpg

Drive cage mod: original drive mounting on bottom, my new position on top. This keeps the drive away from the radiator/fan assembly, and allows me to hide the wires a lot more cleanly

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...ermods_005.jpg

Fill/bleed ports

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...ermods_006.jpg
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...ermods_007.jpg

Cut an extra 1/2" from the door hangar locations which allows the doors to be removed without taking them off the hinges (why oh why this wasn't done like this stock?)


http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...ermods_008.jpg

Drain ports

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...ermods_009.jpg

Installed studs for pump mounting - allows for easy pump removal/maintenance. No need to remove motherboard just to get to the pump

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...ermods_010.jpg

See how it works? Bingo!

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...ermods_011.jpg

Hole cut for reservoir return lines

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...ermods_012.jpg

Another hole for SATA data + power


Next up: radiator/fan assembly test fitting!


Thank you to those complimenting the build. Another thanks to those using my build log to discuss motherboard compatibility :clap: LOL KIDDING! :up:

nice job so far :up: Subscribed.

Nice to see you mounted the one on the MoBo tray you did. I'd have a bad feeling if it were the other way, too easy for rouge air to get trapped in the pump the other way.

As for EATX cases, I'm fairly certain (like 99.92615% certain) the YY-0221 will accommodate such a large board, at least that's the impression I get from mine. :D

Ya, it would be great if the side door can take off easily, i will check your mod method when i got home


BTW, are there any buy/sell category ?

Looks very good so far, i will be taking notes because i plan on getting this case and modding it for a dual loop wc setup.

Just a couple of questions i would like to ask.

How easy was it to remove the doors ? Im getting the full Alu side panel version and i will need to remove the doors so that they can be painted.

Are the feet removable ? If so what is the total height of the case without the feet. I have 72cm of space under my tabletop that i would ideally like to slide the case underneath. If not i will have to mod my desk abit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scubar

Looks very good so far, i will be taking notes because i plan on getting this case and modding it for a dual loop wc setup.

Just a couple of questions i would like to ask.

How easy was it to remove the doors ? Im getting the full Alu side panel version and i will need to remove the doors so that they can be painted.

Are the feet removable ? If so what is the total height of the case without the feet. I have 72cm of space under my tabletop that i would ideally like to slide the case underneath. If not i will have to mod my desk abit.

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To remove the panel, you just need to remove the front panel. It is not difficult.

The feet are removable, just one screw

Height is 27.5 inch without feet or 72.2cm with feet. May be u can make it with feet as well

I have 2 rad on back external, now planning the third loop, its not ez tho

Yea im planning 2 loops and 2 PA120.2s on the back 1 for cpu/chipset and other for gfx.

Thanks for the info should come in handy when i can finally get the case in about a months time when its in stock ( really hard to find the non window version in the uk )

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scubar

Yea im planning 2 loops and 2 PA120.2s on the back 1 for cpu/chipset and other for gfx.

Thanks for the info should come in handy when i can finally get the case in about a months time when its in stock ( really hard to find the non window version in the uk )

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I will get the Non window if i can make the choice again. I want complete silence, with the see thru window, i cant install the noise foam.

You may already know the screw hole on the black of case won't line up with thermochill, you need either cut out the whole thing or just make some new holes. Also, if you gonna hang them at the back of case, i would suggest PA120.2 and PA120.3, i mean why not..

Thats the plan i have in mind. Im going for the non window version and installing a bucket load of noise reducing foam. Having 2 Loops with 2xPA120.2 mounted on the back and repainting the outside of the case.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mildseven7

I will get the Non window if i can make the choice again. I want complete silence, with the see thru window, i cant install the noise foam.

You may already know the screw hole on the black of case won't line up with thermochill, you need either cut out the whole thing or just make some new holes. Also, if you gonna hang them at the back of case, i would suggest PA120.2 and PA120.3, i mean why not..

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The loudest parts of this build right now are:

a) WD Raptor - annoyingly loud. Get some Samgung Spinpoints for a quiet build or the new 750Gb drives using perpendicular recording. They are almost as fast as Raptors and much more quiet. I mean seriously you can hear this thing seeking in the other room. When I add 3 more (RAID 1+0) it will be absolutely ridiculous! :rofl:

b) Fans at full blast. At 1500 RPM, it sounds like an air conditioner, but you can play at 2560x1600 with upwards of 100fps in most modern games. At about 800 RPM, the rig is rather quiet and cooling is sufficient for most tasks.

I decided early on I am going for pure performance with this build so I don't care how loud it is. My work machine, on the other hand is very quiet since it runs 24/7 and runs my home theater as well ...

When you have the fans turned down you can hear the pumps humming along :p: I never would have guessed 20 years ago I'd be building a water-cooled computer??? Sometimes I have to laugh at how far things have come - I mean there are 2 water pumps in my Pee Cee! :eek:

Hey!

I really like this Mozart case of yours! I'm looking forward to follow this build :up:

About the annoying sound from the Raptors!

I bought a mCubed "vertical silence" hhd cooler/enclosure box for my Raptor, and It's quite good.
It's doing a fare job with the sound, but you need to have
a fan nearby pushing fresh air over the heat sinks, since the
Raptor gets hot inside the box.

But I really like how it changed the overall sound in my silent system. :)

http://www.mcubed-store.com/catalog/...42&language=en

Not sure why everyone complaining about the raptor. i have the 150GB Raptor Enterprise and its practically silent, i have it in a 5.25 anti vibration adaptor

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Originally Posted by Scubar

Not sure why everyone complaining about the raptor. i have the 150GB Raptor Enterprise and its practically silent, i have it in a 5.25 anti vibration adaptor

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Well I suppose it all boils down to your tolerance for noise. Or how good/bad your hearing is :eek:

I personally find the Raptor extremely annoying and I would never use it for a normal, everyday use computer. For this box, I just don't care since it will only be used for gaming so it doesn't matter.

I guess you could put it in an enclosure and all that, but why bother? Just get a new WD 750Gb drive and it will be quiet with performance equal to or better than a Raptor :confused:

Allrighty tighty, here we are installing the radiator and fans in a push/pull configuration.

Just making sure everything is going to fit, before I do any wiring or plumbing ...

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/radical_001.jpg
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/radical_002.jpg
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/radical_003.jpg
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/radical_004.jpg
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/radical_005.jpg

Initially I hooked up all 4 fans on the same channel for the upper rad. On the lower rad, I hooked up 2 fans on each controller channel.

I was considering the latter for finer fan control - in other words, you could run just 2 fans (on one half of the rad) for normal day-to-day stuff, then turn up the other side when you wanted to game.

I quickly decided that option had little utility, so I now have all 4 fans on each rad tied together.

Also, a single fan on each rad/fan assembly is plugged into a motherboard fan connector. This allows me to read the RPM for each loop.

I found that using 4 fans on a single channel as opposed to 2 fans on a single channel yields only about 50RPM difference, which further strengthened my opinion that 4 fans on each channel is the best solution.

Not to mention, it's much simpler to operate with only 2 channels instead of 4 :up:

I don't like the case but you're project is looking good :up:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sunayknits

Well I suppose it all boils down to your tolerance for noise. Or how good/bad your hearing is :eek:

I personally find the Raptor extremely annoying and I would never use it for a normal, everyday use computer. For this box, I just don't care since it will only be used for gaming so it doesn't matter.

I guess you could put it in an enclosure and all that, but why bother? Just get a new WD 750Gb drive and it will be quiet with performance equal to or better than a Raptor :confused:

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I hate the HD noise the most cus the noise not in constant, H/L pitch, Long, Short, fast, slow. I put them in a watercooling closure. It's expensive but worth it for dead silence.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by The_Beast

I don't like the case but you're project is looking good :up:

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Thank you. I'm stoked with how it's turning out. ;)

I dont suppose you could do me one last favour and measure the distance i have marked out with the yellow line from the center of the top hole on the back to the top of the case. Im hoping that the gap is more then 40mm

http://xs122.xs.to/xs122/07526/initial_build_003.jpg

Sunnayknits, Your build is looking great! but your avatar's freakin me out :eek:
Any ways, keep up the good work! :up:

I really like these cases, if they made them one fan taller to fit two triple rads, I'd buy one for sure.

Very nice build, all these awesome case builds are making me want to redo my case build.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scubar

I dont suppose you could do me one last favour and measure the distance i have marked out with the yellow line from the center of the top hole on the back to the top of the case. Im hoping that the gap is more then 40mm

http://xs122.xs.to/xs122/07526/initial_build_003.jpg

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It's exactly 2 inches, which means about 5 centimeters. This is from the center of the hole to the top of the case. Keep in mind that top of the case is recessed about 5 mm and the metal is a few mm thick ...

Hey guys and girls, haven't had much time lately but here is a small update ;)

These are some photos of the reservoirs I'm using, they are AlphaCool Cape Bullseye reservoirs. I really like how they look and they hold enough fluid to be practical too.

I chose the fancy mounting options and also the 'melvin pipe' which is a tube that extends from the center opening into the middle of the reservoir - it makes bleeding a whole lot easier!

I've decided to start using larger images. Lemme know if you like!

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/bayres_001.jpg
Here you see the res as it comes from the factory - with the pre-installed mounting gizmo (which I don't need).
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/bayres_002.jpg
Closeup of the res. Made of POM (Delrin I think). Also you can see the plastic plug used for adding LED lighting if you wish. I'm thinking about using all 3 plugs, with Red Green and Blue LEDs. I can connect them to a microcontroller and do some crazy lighting effects inside the res ... maybe later!
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/bayres_003.jpg
Another closeup - here you can see the Koolance barb fitting in the center vs. the EK fittings on each side. I fell in love with the Koolance fittings and will replace all the EK fittings when I get around to it.
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/bayres_004.jpg
Assembled into bay holder
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/bayres_005.jpg
Just a cool shot, playing with camera settings :)
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/bayres_006.jpg
Here you can clearly see the Melvin Pipe in the center
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/bayres_007.jpg
I LOVE LOVE LOVE these Koolance fittings! They're expensive, but well worth it for the level of quality ...
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/bayres_008.jpg
From left to right: EK barb, Koolance barb, EK stubby (useless!), Koolance compression 90 degree. You can also see the notch cut into the Koolance compression fitting at the top, which works great with a quarter to make 'em nice and tight
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/bayres_009.jpg
Can you say FUGLY? These are the EK barbs in the EK blocks. Not only do they look terrible, but the diameter of the thread ends is slightly oversize. This makes them difficult to thread in (have to use a wrench) and when you remove them you have little bits of Delrin (like hairs) on the inside of the blocks. Not good! In contrast, the Koolance fittings thread in easily by hand and fit absolutely perfectly. Furthermore, the threads on the Koolance fittings are shorter so they don't protrude into the blocks as far - particularly important on the copper side of FC 8800GTX blocks. You don't have to use that goofy spacer provided with the block ...
http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/bayres_010.jpg
A good closeup of the EK barbs vs Koolance compression. Quality!

I know I'm gushing about the Koolance fittings, but they do have a bad side. They rust very quickly. I left distilled H20 in the system for a week, thinking everything would be ok for such a short period, and found rust inside all the fittings before I could add anti-corrosives. Ever since I changed the fluid I haven't seen any more rust but just be aware - DO NOT run without anticorrosives for ANY length of time :shocked:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by smee

Sunnayknits, Your build is looking great! but your avatar's freakin me out :eek:
Any ways, keep up the good work! :up:

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Hehe, thanks for the good vibes! I love how that avatar is so sick. I chuckle whenever I see it :clap:

While the Koolance fittings are nice, I like the EK ones more. And the Stubbies aren't useless. (can you say "SLI"?)

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Originally Posted by Nate P.

While the Koolance fittings are nice, I like the EK ones more. And the Stubbies aren't useless. (can you say "SLI"?)

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Why?

And for SLI, I suppose if the cards were really close together ... but they're not even long enough to put a normal sized clamp on so I found they have little utility.

Hey listen, I'm a fan of EK stuff too - just look at all my H20 blocks - but I call bull:banana::banana::banana::banana: when I see it and I think their fittings straight-up suck :rolleyes:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sunayknits

Why?

And for SLI, I suppose if the cards were really close together ... but they're not even long enough to put a normal sized clamp on so I found they have little utility.

Hey listen, I'm a fan of EK stuff too - just look at all my H20 blocks - but I call bull:banana::banana::banana::banana: when I see it and I think their fittings straight-up suck :rolleyes:

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Stubbies are great, heres my dad's WC SLI build.
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/7907/cimg4223gt6.jpg
Between the two vga's and that turn on the bottom vga you see in the pic he used stubbies, they fit the normal sized clamps just fine, and we've had no leaks at all.

The stubbies are mainly used for tight turns or SLI.

Anyway, good job on the build!

Well, the EK's have little ridges perfect for zipties (two of the small ones). I dunno, I guess I just prefer EK over Koolance.

Smee, your dads build looks awesome... I guess your dad is a little more enthusiastic about spending money than my parents.:ROTF:

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Originally Posted by Nate P.

Smee, your dads build looks awesome... I guess your dad is a little more enthusiastic about spending money than my parents.:ROTF:

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Ya well... :rolleyes: It was time to upgrade from our old p4 pressy (which was also watercooled), and because the mobo (ABIT IC7-MAX3) died.
We first where just going to have one vga, but after some convincing :rolleyes: ... he bought another one.
Here's the specs of the system:
M2N32-SLI mobo
AMD 6000+ @ stock 3.0GHz (he's not into overclocking)
4GB Corsair XMS2
2x eVGA 8600GTS 512MB Superclock
850W Antec PSU
and like 1.2TB of HDs.

It's our home comp, my mom uses it the most :)

When I built my first computer my parents were really enthusiastic, but after that it was downhill. Now it's just like, "can't you be happy with the computer you have?" Me: "NO.":rofl:

i'm with nate... ek barbs i'm my fav... so easy to work with and they look great...

imho i dont like the look of those koolance ones...

builds coming along nicely btw :)

It's to types of barbs, and different price ranges, what do you expect? Appart from that, nice work :)

Can anyone, or the OP, tell me if Thermochill 120.2's will fit side-by-side on the rear fan openings? My swiftech MCR320's wouldn't even bolt in next to each other on the back of the case. I am trying to figure out a few ways of making my setup 100% internal so I can actually move the case in a few months.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dethred

Can anyone, or the OP, tell me if Thermochill 120.2's will fit side-by-side on the rear fan openings? My swiftech MCR320's wouldn't even bolt in next to each other on the back of the case. I am trying to figure out a few ways of making my setup 100% internal so I can actually move the case in a few months.

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The Thermochills are fatter (bigger) than the Swiftech's, if they would fit, the Thermochills definitely won't.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dethred

Can anyone, or the OP, tell me if Thermochill 120.2's will fit side-by-side on the rear fan openings? My swiftech MCR320's wouldn't even bolt in next to each other on the back of the case. I am trying to figure out a few ways of making my setup 100% internal so I can actually move the case in a few months.

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Sure man, look at my previous posts, around the fan/rad testing area. I think I mentioned earlier that the spacing on the back is a perfect square. The holes are placed such that you can fit 4 120mm fans on the back and they will all be touching.

Normal rads will not fit without case modification, since most are > 120mm wide. Magicool Extreme Slim Profile rads (bought from Performance-PCs) work great since they are exactly 120mm wide. They may not perform quite as well as PA120's but the difference is minimal especially at the high fan speeds I'm using in this build.


And BTW, thanks for the kudos, I appreciate everyone's comments :)

With regards to the locking mechanisms on the side panels, Can they be removed at all ? I Ask because i want to paint the side panels.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Scubar

With regards to the locking mechanisms on the side panels, Can they be removed at all ? I Ask because i want to paint the side panels.

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Shouldn't be a problem. You can remove the latch assembly, acrylic and hinges from both doors. The latch just snaps in, the acrylic uses plastic rivets (which look re-usable but I haven't tried), and the hinges are screwed on.

Anyone wanna see my plumber's butt? I do a crack job with this tubing! Lolz :p:

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...rsbutt_001.jpg

The pumps are installed!

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...rsbutt_002.jpg

And so are the drains!

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...rsbutt_003.jpg

Should be easy to flush!

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...rsbutt_004.jpg

But testing remains!

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbui...rsbutt_005.jpg

Computer veins!


... I'm a dork :shakes:

nice!!!

that case has so much room!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sunayknits

Shouldn't be a problem. You can remove the latch assembly, acrylic and hinges from both doors. The latch just snaps in, the acrylic uses plastic rivets (which look re-usable but I haven't tried), and the hinges are screwed on.

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The plastic rivets can be re-used for the acrylic panel but, are a b:banana::banana::banana:h to get back in, I advise the use of pliers to squeeze all but one of the legs in then use extreme force and bad language to get the last leg in.

Either that or use metal pop-rivets or some sort of hex nut and bolt solution maybe.

R4z

Finally I had some time to work on my project again! :D

Here are my Foxconn 8800GTX cards and EK blocks:

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/gtxglam_001.jpg

Overclocked from the factory @ 600 / 1000Mhz

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/gtxglam_002.jpg

Backside

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/gtxglam_003.jpg

Naked!

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/gtxglam_004.jpg

Playing with macro

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/gtxglam_005.jpg

The stocker

http://www.brimbo.com/temp/mozartbuild/gtxglam_006.jpg

She's mounted! :up:


These Foxconn cards are not completely stable at these speeds on air. After an hour or so of HL2:EP2 they would inevitably cause a hang.

Hopefully on water they'll work better.

I mounted the block once, took it off and checked for good contact, and found a couple areas that needed more pressure. Gotta be careful not to get the screws too tight, but they gotta be tweaked to get proper contact.

Next up, motherboard waterblock mounting!

Also, for you eagle-eyed readers who've noticed my signature has changed (all zero of you lol), you might be interested to see I now have 2 Gigabyte i-Ram boxes on hand fresh from Hong Kong. Both are fully loaded with brand new memory, tested and ready to go. They are simply incredible and I will talk more about these later!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mildseven7

My Rad design for your reference

PA120.3 + PA120.2 External

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Martinm210

I really like these cases, if they made them one fan taller to fit two triple rads, I'd buy one for sure.

Very nice build, all these awesome case builds are making me want to redo my case build.

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You can definitely fit 2 PA 120.3 rads... the orientation of physical location would seem a bit weird but it will be possible to fit 2 PA 120.3 radiators in this case.

You can actually fit, 1 x 120.3 on back, 1 x 120.2 on back, and 1 x 120.3 in the front behind the front cover/door :D

P.s. I am going to try this :D :D :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hecktic

You can definitely fit 2 PA 120.3 rads... the orientation of physical location would seem a bit weird but it will be possible to fit 2 PA 120.3 radiators in this case.

You can actually fit, 1 x 120.3 on back, 1 x 120.2 on back, and 1 x 120.3 in the front behind the front cover/door :D

P.s. I am going to try this :D :D :D

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Are you serious, PA120.3 in front interior..
Which area? Under drive or floppy area or under floppy?
I have PA120.2, 120.3 hanged at back, will do it after you if you done it.