Watersystem for Q6600B3 & 2x8800Ultras & Striker Extreme

Hi Guys,

I'm new to watercooling. (also new to this forum)

Actually, I always told myself not to "watercool" my system.
But now I'm force to, because I want a higher overclock :)

This is my system right now:

MSI P6N Platinum
Q6600 B3 (currently @ 3.15Ghz, FSB 1400 MP, cooled by Zalman CNPS 9700)
4GB, 4 x 1GB Chaintech Apogee DDR2-800 (currently runs @ 3-3-3-9 700Mhz)
2x XFX 8800 Ultra XT (runs @ FSB 660 - Shader 1750 - MEM 1160)
2x 74GB Raptors in raid0
Coolermaster Real Power 850 Powersupply
Coolermaster Mystique 632S Case

Update Friday 16-11-2007:

New System Setup:
Asus Striker Extreme (have)
Q6600 G0 (have)
4GB, 2 x 2GB G.Skill PC8000 (ordered)
2x XFX 8800 Ultra XT (have)
2x 74GB Raptors in Raid0 (have)
Coolermaster Real Power 850 Powersupply (have)
Mountainmod Case U2-UFO Horizon with Duality Front (ordered)


I've read lot of forum topics, so I now know a little bit about watercooling :)


After few weeks "watercooling research", this is it:

Components I want to cool with water:
- Asus Striker Extreme (NB, SB, Mosfets)
- Q6600 G0 @ 3.6 or higher (I hope :D)
- 2x 8800 Ultra XT in SLI @ 700 - 1750 - 1200


Watercooling Setup:
- 2 Loops:
(1) Res -> Pump -> PA120.3 -> Cpu -> NB -> Mosfet1 -> Mosfet2 -> Res
(2) Res -> Pump -> PA120.3 - Gpu1 -> Gpu2 -> SB -> Res

1. 2x Thermochill PA120.3
1a. Thermochill with metal Barbs!!!
2. 2x Laing DCC2 or DCC-1RT/Plus (18W) "Petra Top"
3. 1x D-Tek Fuzion Universal
4. 2x EK-FC8800 GTX Block
5. 1x EK-Asus Striker Extreme Set (NB, SB, Mosfet1, Mosfet2)
6. 2x Swiftech MCRES-Micro
7. 2x Magicool Thermal Pad for Chipsets Cooling & Protection
8. 2x Backplate EK Mosfets for Asus Striker Extreme
9. 1x Backplate Socket 775 + washers
10. 1x Arctic Silver 5
11. 1x Arctic Ceramique
12. 15 Masterkleer 7/16" ID (5/8" OD) PVC Tubing or Tygan 3603
13. ?x Fittings
14. ?x Liquid Feser One - F1 - Cooling Fluid - UV CLEAR/UV BLUE 1ltr


Is this any good? :D

Thank you in advance for you suggestions!

If you want the best rads, thermochill is the only and most expensive way to go... but their rads are quite thick but oh so effective with low rpm fans...

I don't have SLI but I had one loop with the CPU and GPU : D-tek fuzion for the CPU and EK Delrin waterblock for the 8800GTX coupled with a DCC+ pump and EK 150 reservoir and the Thermochill PA120.3, tubing 8/10mm

Second loop with NB, SB and PWM's, one Alphacool 120.2 Extreme Flow and a DCC pro AGB pump ( reservoir is on top of the pump to gain space ) Tubing initially 6/8mm but changed it to 8/10mm

This setup worked very well with my quad up to 425FSB, though 450FSB to get to the magical 3.6Ghz ( 8 x 450 ) never quite worked with my board... Apparently there is another revision of the board with a soldered bios...

If you look on my link below my signature you can find several pictures of my hardware used ... good luck with the setup and only 1301 or 1303 bios work on this board with quads mate (don't even think of using 1305 !)

Yeah, I will use BIOS 1303.
I've taken my time to read this topic:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=159457
:) Learned a lot there.

Also read your topic, nice job!!!

About the loops:
What is your reasoning for choosing 2 loops etc.?

What do you think about this:
2 loops:
Pump - rad - SB - VGA1 - VGA2 - Res
Pump - rad - CPU - Mosfets - NB - Res
In this way, the enormous heat from the CPU and VGA is distributed.

Or 1 loop:
Res - Pump - Rad1 - CPU - Mosfets - NB - Rad2 - SB - VGA1 - VGA2

Take into consideration that the NB gets extremely hot and the PWM's aren't really necesarry to cool (but hey do they look fab) so CPU and NB in one loop could be good then a rad to cool the fluid and then go for the 2 vidcards and if needed the SB...

Many also replaced the NB and SB with a Thermaltake Spirit which works very very good

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Leeghoofd

Take into consideration that the NB gets extremely hot and the PWM's aren't really necesarry to cool (but hey do they look fab) so CPU and NB in one loop could be good then a rad to cool the fluid and then go for the 2 vidcards and if needed the SB...

Many also replaced the NB and SB with a Thermaltake Spirit which works very very good

---

PWM's = Mosfets right?
If I remove the stock heatpipes/heatsinks for the NB & SB, then the Mosfets will have no cooling at all.
Won't that cause a problem?

Anyway, I'm going for the PWM's/Mosfets blocks anyway, not only for the cooling itself, but also because it looks very cool :D

Do you think 1 loop can handle the heat?
And if yes, which pump do you recommend?
Because I think the pump has to be very powerfull to pump around 2 rads and all those blocks!


ps. is the removal of the Asus Striker Extreme stock cooling difficult?

Waterkeg!!! Look For Member Newls1

The stock cooling comes off quite easily on the Striker. If you don't mind destroying the Asus heatpipe setup you can remove the copper plates and use them as backplates for your NB/SB and MOSFETS. The EK kit looks really good on the motherboard, but will cost you around $200. I have it on mine and really like it.

You may want to hold off and see how well Eddy's new CPU block performs. You could then go with an all EK setup. That's almost $500 just in waterblocks though!

I would go for two PA120.3 rads in a Mountain Mods case. At least find a case that has plenty of room. I crammed two loops into my Stacker 830, but I'm not happy with the results. There's hardly any room to work on things, and I dread taking it apart. Hopefully I can save people some cash by learning from my mistakes. Also, pony up for Thermochills from the beginning, but realize they take up a lot of room! Especially if you use the fan shrouds with them. [:)]

As for how you setup your loops realize that using 1/2" tubing for the NB/SB/MOSFETS is going to be tough to do. I tried to lay mine out with 1/2" Black Tygon, and the end result looked like a bowl of spaghetti with all of the tubing. You have to sacrifice using more tubing because you can't get a very tight bend. I switched to 3/8" Black Tygon and was able to get a much cleaner look, and use a lot less tubing.

A relieve to hear that the stock cooling comes of easy :)
I will think about the blackplate for the mosfets (I also saw you can buy those backplates).

For the MOBO I'm planning to buy this:
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_inf...Set-Acryl.html

As for the CPU block, can't wait, so I'll just go for a D-Tek.

About the space in my case:
I'm going to build all the watercoolstuff into another case.
So it'll be external.
Because my current case is waaayyy too small.
And making it external is also better for future (i.e. if I buy a whole new PC)
But I still haven't figured out how to build the "watercoolcase"...

Do you also got 2 loops or 1?
And do you think 1 loop can handle the heat, with a powerfull pump?

I have 2 loops. That would be a lot of stuff to put on one loop, and I'm not sure a PA120.3 could handle the heat load.

You may want to lose that Eheim. The pumps to consider are the Laing D5 (Swiftech MCP655) or the Laing DDC3.2/DDC-2/DDC Ultra with modified top. You would want to double up on your pumps in series for adequate head pressure, increased flow and redundancy. You do not want to skimp on pumps when you have such hardware to cool.

Money isn't an issue.
I want to buy the best stuff for my setup, so I don't have to upgrade in future.

@ Slim_Shady, I wasn't planning using 1 rad, but 2 in the loop, with an Eheim 1250. (1200 l/h should do the trick or not?)

And then this loop:
Res - Pump - Rad1 - CPU - Mosfet1 - Mosfet2 - NB - Rad2 - SB - VGA1 - VGA2

What do you think about that?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Akuma2000

Money isn't an issue.
I want to buy the best stuff for my setup, so I don't have to upgrade in future.

@ Slim_Shady, I wasn't planning using 1 rad, but 2 in the loop, with an Eheim 1250. (1200 l/h should do the trick or not?)

And then this loop:
Res - Pump - Rad1 - CPU - Mosfet1 - Mosfet2 - NB - Rad2 - SB - VGA1 - VGA2

What do you think about that?

---

If money is not an issue, you ought to do three loops:

(1) Res -> Pump -> Pump -> PA120.3 -> Cpu -> Res
(2) Res -> Pump -> Pump -> PA120.3 - Gpu -> Gpu -> Res
(3) Res -> Pump -> Rad -> NB -> SB -> Mosfets -> Res


You need to look at the 18W version of this pump. Place two in series for extra head pressure and superb flow.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/laddcwpeddto.html

That Eheim pump is a weakling that will not do.

Alternatively, this is another pump to consider:
http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcin12pu.html

If you really want the best, I would highly recommend the Iwaki RD-30
http://www.petrastechshop.com/iwrd24vdcinp.html
But you would need a 24V power supply.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Akuma2000

Money isn't an issue.
I want to buy the best stuff for my setup, so I don't have to upgrade in future.

@ Slim_Shady, I wasn't planning using 1 rad, but 2 in the loop, with an Eheim 1250. (1200 l/h should do the trick or not?)

And then this loop:
Res - Pump - Rad1 - CPU - Mosfet1 - Mosfet2 - NB - Rad2 - SB - VGA1 - VGA2

What do you think about that?

---

Not!

You want more head pressure than 2M. Both Laing pumps (DDC and D5) are smaller and more powerful than the 1250, and they run off 12V DC. Yes, it's true they lack the sheer LPH of the Eheim, but that isn't what''s important.

Although money isn't an issue, I'd like to keep the cooling setup as simple as possible.
(I'm still very new to this and I also have to build everyting externally in a case)

But is 1 loop possible with another Pump than Eheim, if yes, which one (brand + model)?

If not possible, then I'm force to use 2 loops.
Which pumps do you then recommend?

I guess 3 loops is too much and too difficult for me to build.

Hi mate,

I'd use 2 x DDc18w with some form of aftermarket top.

2 loops definatly for those parts,maybe 3.

You don't seem to want to listen. Welshtom owns a water cooling store. The others here are water cooling experts. We have already told you which pumps you need and how many you need. Its all up to you now.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by IanY

You don't seem to want to listen. Welshtom owns a water cooling store. The others here are water cooling experts. We have already told you which pumps you need and how many you need. Its all up to you now.

---

yep, i think your previous post sums up exactly whats needed :)

Sorry IanY, I overlooked the Pump suggestions.
The amount of info and knowledge is too overwhelming :)

2 loops it is then!

Do you guys approve these 2 loops:
1) Pump - rad - CPU - NB - Mofset1 - Mosfet2 - Res
2) Pump - rad - SB - VGA1 - VGA2 - Res

@ welshtom
I've emailed you before, you can make an offer ;)


Oh I forgot:
I do go to LAN-Parties now and then, so are there any "fittings" that can be "tapped off".
So I like my "External Water Cooling" system to be "movable".
When I unplug the tubes, do I have to empty all water the water in the system?
Or is there kind of "valve" which can close the tubes? (just like the Zalman Reserator XT technology)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Akuma2000

Money isn't an issue.
I want to buy the best stuff for my setup, so I don't have to upgrade in future.

@ Slim_Shady, I wasn't planning using 1 rad, but 2 in the loop, with an Eheim 1250. (1200 l/h should do the trick or not?)

And then this loop:
Res - Pump - Rad1 - CPU - Mosfet1 - Mosfet2 - NB - Rad2 - SB - VGA1 - VGA2

What do you think about that?

---

I wouldn't use the Eheim then. Consider 2 DDC w/ Petra's top instead.

But consider this as well. It will be moot point to do the second loop since you will have all of the parts except for a second reservoir. You can try leaving them all in a single loop, and if that doesn't work just add a reservoir and split the loops up.

1-those laings are the best until they stop working as we ve seen more than once here huh??

2-there was some sorta trick with the RD 30 and the RD 20 alex said having to do with the heat the pump introduced to the cycle and the voltage the pump was used. Can some one remind me of that?

Optimum is at RD30 @ 18V or RD20 @ 24V. About the same pressure and flow. RD30 @ 24V is supposed to dump a level of heat that makes it inefficient.

Slight change of plans :)

I don't want to waste my time, building my own external watercooling system.

Instead, I'm going to spend my time working and earning more money to buy this:
http://www.mountainmods.com/u2ufo-bl...inal-p-77.html

or this one:
http://www.mountainmods.com/u2ufo-ho...els-p-361.html

:D

I wonder though, how should I setup the watercooling in this case :S

I have the same Asus Striker setup, with 3 loops. See my sig below. A few others have similar setups. Search this forum. No doubt you'll have alot of fun setting it all up.

Wow Nice man!!!

I'm going to use 3 loops too, since have the space with the MM case.

I wonder which loop I should do with the MM case.
The MM case offers this:
1 x 120.3
1 x 120.2
1 x 120.1

Damn that looks so nice but seems like a :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana: to work in... I needed more interior space as I tend to swap hardware regularly...

By the way I redid my Loop on the P5K Zeus style ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by IanY

If money is not an issue, you ought to do three loops:

(1) Res -> Pump -> Pump -> PA120.3 -> Cpu -> Res
(2) Res -> Pump -> Pump -> PA120.3 - Gpu -> Gpu -> Res
(3) Res -> Pump -> Rad -> NB -> SB -> Mosfets -> Res


You need to look at the 18W version of this pump. Place two in series for extra head pressure and superb flow.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/laddcwpeddto.html

That Eheim pump is a weakling that will not do.

Alternatively, this is another pump to consider:
http://www.petrastechshop.com/swmcin12pu.html

If you really want the best, I would highly recommend the Iwaki RD-30
http://www.petrastechshop.com/iwrd24vdcinp.html
But you would need a 24V power supply.

---

3 loops ftw!!!!

i got my b3 in it's own loop,my gtx in it's own loop and nb,sb and vrm's in it's own loop :up:

Hey.
Not that I'm the biggest water cooling Guru (Yet *Snicker*) But isn't it going to be a pain in the back do an external Dual Loop system?
I suppose one could drill some extra holes to get the rads etc outside the case, but having 4 to 6 1/2" tubes running out a case might get a complicated in my eyes.

Hey SafeFire,

I'm NOT going to do External anymore, see my previous posts.

I'm going to purchase a MM case and build everything internal :)

I think I'm going to do the loop Iany suggested:
(1) Res -> Pump -> Pump -> PA120.3 -> Cpu -> Res
(2) Res -> Pump -> Pump -> PA120.3 - Gpu -> Gpu -> Res
(3) Res -> Pump -> Rad -> NB -> SB -> Mosfets -> Res

Is it neccesary to watercool the RAM's too?
(I'm going to buy the G.Skill 4GB (2x2GB PC8000).

Mem cooling isn't necessary, but it does look cool! Just aim a fan at the RAM if you're going to up the voltage above stock.

About what to put on each loop, check out these test results:
http://www.thermochill.com/PATesting/index.php

and see which RAD can take the loads best.

man...wish I had the bucks to blow

Ok thank you all.

I almost figured it out now.

Just still doubting to do 2 or 3 loops.
Because the MM case costs a lot of money, gotta be carefull I do not spend too much :P

If I choose to do 2 loops, which loop below do you guys think it's better?

Loop 1:
Pump > Rad 120.3 > CPU > NB > Mosfets1 > Mosfets2 (> RAM) > Res
Loop 2:
Pump > Rad 120.2 > VGA1 > VGA2 > SB > Res

Or

Loop 1:
Pump > Rad 120.3 > CPU > VGA1 > VGA2 > Res
Loop 2:
Pump > Rad 120.2 > NB > Mosfet1 > Mosfet2 (> RAM) > SB > Res

Hmm...It does depend on what fans you'll be using on the RADs...
I would say
PA120.3 for the SLI Ultras (and maybe something else, but not CPU)
the rest on the PA120.2

Hmmm... Still doubting what to do...

2 loops.. 3 loops... sort of loops... damn

I hope some "pro" here comes to me and just tells me exactly what to do and to stop whining :P

Anyway, just came home from work and went to the computershop, because my Asus Striker Extreme has arrived :D

http://www.ypsun.nl/images/ultimatepc/09-11-2007_01.jpg

http://www.ypsun.nl/images/ultimatepc/09-11-2007_02.jpg

http://www.ypsun.nl/images/ultimatepc/09-11-2007_03.jpg

http://www.ypsun.nl/images/ultimatepc/09-11-2007_04.jpg

I have the 1.00g revision, not the 1.03 :( Should I go back for a refund??? :P
The BIOS chip is not "poppable", so I guess this is the newer revision of the 1.00g


Anyway, I can't wait to order the watercooling stuff + MM case, so I can get it going!!!

I think the revision number on the Striker says 1.00g no matter what. The difference is whether it was made in Taiwan or China. I think I read that here on the forums...?

I think you'll be happy with the MM case. I wish I would have went that way from the start. Something to consider is getting a custom front panel for $40 more. That's what I'm going to do so I can mount a PA120.3 and PA120.2 up front in an "L" shape with the 120.3 horizontal on the bottom, and the 120.2 vertical. I'm working on doing a Google Sketchup model now. That way you get fresh cold air coming in on both rads. Otherwise, if you put the 120.2 in the back you will be pulling air from two directions. I don't think that will be very efficient. Just a thought...

Where are you going to order the MM case? the Uk ? and indeed the board with the fixed bios is the so called lattest revision (though still 1.00G on the PCB)

Mine is made in China, I read that is the newer revision.
So I'm going to keep this one.

Next week, I'm going to the bookshop and buy a B4 pencil, to do the vdroop mod :)

I wish I did this too a few month ago.
It would have saved me a lot of money.
Now I'm stuck with a Coolermaster Mystique 632Case, 4GB Chaintech mem, and a Zalman 9700 Cooler. :P

I think I'm going for the MM Duality front with a Horizon back.
That way I can put 2 120.3's rads in it and optional 1 120.2 rad :D

The air will be sucked away on the top.

Anyway, what loop should I do?
More suggestions I can choose from?
I'm still doubting about that.

I will use 3 fans for each 120.3 and if there is space left, I'll use 6 per rad!


edit:
@ Leeghoofd
Don't know which BIOS it is.
I won't be using the Striker, untill everything has arrived (from watercooling till case).

And I'll order directly from the US I guess, because UK hasn't got any stock.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Akuma2000

Mine is made in China, I read that is the newer revision.
So I'm going to keep this one.

Next week, I'm going to the bookshop and buy a B4 pencil, to do the vdroop mod :)

I wish I did this too a few month ago.
It would have saved me a lot of money.
Now I'm stuck with a Coolermaster Mystique 632Case, 4GB Chaintech mem, and a Zalman 9700 Cooler. :P

I think I'm going for the MM Duality front with a Horizon back.
That way I can put 2 120.3's rads in it and optional 1 120.2 rad :D

The air will be sucked away on the top.

Anyway, what loop should I do?
More suggestions I can choose from?
I'm still doubting about that.

I will use 3 fans for each 120.3 and if there is space left, I'll use 6 per rad!


edit:
@ Leeghoofd
Don't know which BIOS it is.
I won't be using the Striker, untill everything has arrived (from watercooling till case).

And I'll order directly from the US I guess, because UK hasn't got any stock.

---

If you can fit and afford 3 loops/3 rads, then I'd go what Iany suggested, which is almost exactly as my loops but with a single pump in each.

(1) Res -> Pump -> PA120.3 -> Cpu -> Res
(2) Res -> Pump -> PA120.3 - Gpu1 -> Gpu2 -> Res
(3) Res -> Pump -> Pa120.2 -> NB -> SB -> Mosfets -> RAM -> Res

Can you wait a few weeks?

Return the Striker Extreme. The Asus 780i mobo should be out in a few weeks. The Striker Extreme is getting a little old.

Yes, you will find 1.00g revisions in Europe and the US. To get the 1.03g, your mobo must be manufactured in China (I see that your mobo is manufactured in China, which is unusual for the Euro market, but yours is still a 1.00g) and the mobo is distributed only in limited East Asian markets, including China itself.

Speaking to me can get expensive lol One fine day, I'll find the time and space to do something ridiculous like Res->Pump->Pump->Rad->Cpu->Pump->Rad->Res hahaha

I've thought about the 780i, but I'm going to keep my Striker 680i.

Because, if I wait, I want DDR3, I want 150GB Raptors, I want 8GB of mem, etc. etc. etc.

It keeps on going :P

I set a limit to myself, so I'm going to use this setup for about 2 years or longer (I hope :))


Update
I've just ordered and paid the MM case, with 12 fans! :)
It's going to be the U2-UFO Horizon with a Duality Front.

So this is for certain:
- U2-UFO Horizon + Duality Front
- 2 Thermochill 120.3
- 1 Thermochill 120.2
- CPU Block: D-Tek Fuzion
- VGA Blocks: 2 x EK-FC8800GTX
- MOBO Blocks: EK Striker Extreme Set

uncertain:
- Pump: 3 x Laing/swiftec DCC??
- Res: 3 x Swiftech MCRES-Micro AGB???
- Tubes: Tygon R3603 ???
- Liquid: AT-Protect-UV-Blue???
- Did I forgot something?

Could you guys please advise which pomps I should use for the 3 loops?
(please specify modelnumber)
And also resevoirs, which fits the MM case.
And what tubes and liquid?

When I have confirmed everything, I'll sent this order to several firms.
I'm looking forward to see which firm can give me the best offer and will have my order :)

Anyone?

Some last idea's / suggestions, before I place my order?

You forgot the very important component... the brand/model/quantity/operating voltage of the fans...

I already ordered those at MM:
YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SL-124B
http://www.mountainmods.com/yate-loo...24b-p-426.html

I ordered 12 of those.
6 intake in front for the Thermochill 120.3
2 outtake on Top of the case
2 outtake or intake in back for the Thermochill 120.2
1 outtake or intake in back
1 reserve

@ home I got a few more 12CM Recom Fans. Don't know the model/voltage of those.

Hope these are good enough!

Update Sunday 11-11-2007:
I'm going to do 2 loops instead of 3.
Money IS an issue now (because of the MM case, which was a lot more expensive than I had expected).
If I'm going to do 3 loops, my watercooling setup will be more than 1000 euro's.
That's too much, because I also still have to buy a birthday present for my girlfriend -_-

So 2 loops it is.

Watercooling setup will be this:
- 2 x Thermochill 120.3
- 6 x YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SL-124B for rad's
- 1 x Zalman Multi Fan Speed Controller ZM-MFC1 (for the 6 fans on rad's)
- 2 x Laing DDC-1RT Plus (12V / 18W)
- 1 x D-Tek Fuzion
- 2 x EK-FC8800GTX
- 1 x EK Striker Extreme Set
- 2 x Swiftech MCRES-Micro AGB


uncertain:
- Tubes: Tygon R3603 ???
- Liquid: AT-Protect-UV-Blue???
- Did I forgot something?


And the loops is going to be:
Loop 1:
Pump > Rad 120.3 > CPU > NB > Mosfets1 > Mosfets2 > Res

Loop 2:
Pump > Rad 120.3 > VGA1 > VGA2 > SB > Res

Any suggestions by you guys?

update, I've edited my previous post :)

awesome!!! can't wait for pic's!!!

I don't think anyone has mentioned this, but stay away from 8/6mm tubing and G1/8" fittings.

Man.. you shouldn't have ordered the Yate Loon SLs from Mountain Mods. You should have bought them from Petra's. There is a huge difference. The fans are wildly different in terms of performance. Curved blades vs.straight blades. They havebeen tested numerous times by experts here, including Vapor. Wish you would slow down and ask first.

I fired up my 6 yateloons SL's I fitted to my new dual-thermochill, dual-DDC loop lastnight for an evga 680i with them brought down to 7v each and I am loving these fans. I have spent plenty on nexus, scythe etc and the YL's are supurb considering the extra cfm they output.

Oh crap.

Didn't know that IanY, I thought I was ready to go.
Maybe I'll buy those from Petra's later, and put it on the back on the radiators.
So I'll have 6 fans per rad, or is that overkill?

@ Joecop
I was advised to take Tygon 11/8 tubing.
So I will do that.

Haven't ordered my watercooling yet though... the shops are slow making orders..

Oh yeah, another thing.

How should I setup my airflow?

The 6 fans on the Rad's in front of the case:
Intake or Outtake?

If outtake, then the 2 fans on top and rear can be intake.
So the front doesn't need dustfilters (just fan grills) which looks more nice :)

Well at least MM have reduced their Y-L fans from $9 to $5.50. Same ballpark for the UV Y-L fans from PTS

Always the issue with case mounted rads. Is it better to get cool air to the rad or not dump hot air into the case? Seems to be different balance with each design. Ask a MM user, or read through their build threads. You'll get heaps from doing that.

If you have the 6 rad fans as outlets, they'll suffer restricted airflow... there are less fans feeding them. They can only move the air presented to them, which will be warmer chassis air. Better performance to have radiator fans as inlets and all others as outlets.

Consider dust buildup - clean rads regularly (as they'll be the main intakes). Bear in mind you may see increased internal case temps... The only real downside with MM enclosures is getting a balanced airflow as there are never enough outlets to balance the inlets... and if one were to add them, the case'd be nothing but blowholes (I did a sketchup of a duality with 6x 120mm outlets - it looked ridiculous).

But did you know the MM case I ordered has 11x 120mm mounts?
(Duality front with Horizon back)

6 in Front for the RAD's
2 on Top
3 in Back

So the in/out ratio is 6:5

Does anybody know, if the above suggestion is a good idea?

So this:
Airflow Outtake:
6 Fans in front (rads)

Airflow Intake:
2 Fans on top
3 Fans in back

Why I think it's a good idea:
The front doesn't need dustfilters, which I think are not so decorative. I rather see nice Led Fans and Fan Grills.
On top, the 2 fans will blow cool air right on the motherboard.
In back 2 fans will suck cool air in the case, under the motherboard.
1 Fan in back will blow over the motherboard.

I'm not an airflow specialist, so I hope you can give me some advise :)

Updated startpost.

Also my watercooling setup has finally finished.
So ready to place an order at the shop with the best offer :)

Watercooling setup arrived!!!
I've bought some distilled water and 2 cheapass waterpumps to test the setup.
It's a bummer I received the EK-Asus 1 Acetal set (I ordered the Acrylic), so I can't test the mobo set :(

But everything else I can, see the pics:
http://www.ypsun.nl/images/ultimatep...ooling_box.JPG
http://www.ypsun.nl/images/ultimatep...ox_content.JPG
http://www.ypsun.nl/images/ultimatep...ing_test_1.JPG
http://www.ypsun.nl/images/ultimatep...ing_test_2.JPG
http://www.ypsun.nl/images/ultimatep...ing_test_3.JPG
http://www.ypsun.nl/images/ultimatep...ing_test_4.JPG

NICE GEAR MAN!!! more updates!!

Installed the blocks on my 8800 ultras :)

http://www.ypsun.nl/images/ultimatep...800_block1.JPG
http://www.ypsun.nl/images/ultimatep...800_block2.JPG
http://www.ypsun.nl/images/ultimatep...800_block3.JPG

That is the definition of watercooling pr0n :rofl:

Nice parts, cant wait to see it set up :up:

I wish I had that. Nice pics.

Clean that gpu block, please.
What is that white residue?

sexy blocks man but what is that white gunk man??

not gunk, it's condensation because of the hot water.

yeah it's condensation :)

Looks nice so far, i see you also ordered @ aquatuning, good decision :)
Nice setup you got there, hurry up and give us more pics :D

updates

Can't give any updates this week.

Mountainmods STILL haven't shipped my case -_-
They say it'll ship this monday probably -_-...

And after shipment, it'll take another 5 days to arrive at my home...

AND Aquatuning.de made a mistake with my order.
I wanted the EK-Asus Mobo set Acrylic, but they sent me the Acetal version -_-
So I have to sent the Acetal back and have to wait for the Acryl.
BUT Aquatuning.de have not answered my questions/emails for the last 5 days :S
It's like now I've paid 800 euro's for the order (I even paid 10 euro as "tip"), I'm not getting any support anymore :S
Not quite happy here if you know what I mean...

Get ready to wait on that case... I finally got mine yesterday, but it took a while.

Just make sure you call and remind them that you placed an order every once in a while. Seems like they'll forget about you if you don't remind them!

Good luck with Aquatuning.

Your fan/airflow thinking sounds pretty right. Good air flow front and back of the board really helps with all 680i boards.

I'm now doubting about the airflow, because I forgot the PSU.
That one is an outtake too ofcourse.

So now it's like:
Outtake:
6 in Front for the RADs
1 in back from PSU
-
7

Intake
2 on Top
3 in Back
-
5

7:5

Hmmm...

Updates:

- Still don't know what to do with the airflow/fan configuration...

- MM still not shipped my case, also not answering my emails last couple of days...

- Sent back the Acetal Mobo set to Aquatuning, they'll sent me the Acryl as soon as the Acetal are delivered at their firm.

- Updated my Striker Extreme BIOS to 1303 with succes :)

- Waiting.... waiting... sigh...

cmon hurry before I explode :o
I like your style already, except I love acetal blocks more :)
(groetjes uit Tilburg ;))

I'm already exploded wuahaha.

BUT YES!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just received a confirmation email from MM that my case is shipped today!!

Woohoooo

Just a friendly word of advice. I hope the condensation has dried up completely. Don't let that condensation linger, especially on those acrylic see-through blocks. That's the beginning of algae growth. Just helping. Nice job so far.

wow... those ek are so beautiful...would love to have some numbers of the cpu block :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by IanY

Just a friendly word of advice. I hope the condensation has dried up completely. Don't let that condensation linger, especially on those acrylic see-through blocks. That's the beginning of algae growth. Just helping. Nice job so far.

---

You're right!

But how do I let it dry up?
The condensation is still there :(

Unscrew the acrylic top and let it dry ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Akuma2000

You're right!

But how do I let it dry up?
The condensation is still there :(

---

This is what I would do. You obviously have other options.

I would find the right sized allen key and remove the acrylic tops. Do not use alcohol at all!! Acrylic cracks when it comes into contact with alcohol. I would use very clean paper towels and have a few dampened with warm distilled water (light microwaving helps). Then I will use dry clean paper towels and wipe the block surfaces properly.

I would lay the blocks and tops on a clean paper towel to dry in a dust free environment (well, relatively speaking). I wouldn't use a hair dryer, but I guess a hair dryer on warm (not hot) heat would work. The important point here is to clean off all possible bacterial growth (if any).

Don't just let the blocks dry without cleaning. That would not help.

I doubt any bacteria would form so quickly, but better to be safe than sorry.

The reason why I brought it up was because your room looks like there's good sunlight. Condensation in that relatively airtight environment plus sunlight just equals mildew and algae growth. That's my experience anyway.

Again, just helping. Comments are friendly and with full respect. Good job with your build.

Your help is very appreciated ;)

My cards are lying is a box, so it's not exposed to sunlight.

It is almost dry now, I think I'll just let it be.
I'm afraid I will damage the top/waterproof if I take the tops off

Alright then. That's fair.

Another question.

each Rad will have 3 fans.

I saw some people connected the fan power cables to eachother, so they have 1 3pins plug for al 3 fans.

Is this a good/safe idea and if yes, how to do that?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Akuma2000

Another question.

each Rad will have 3 fans.

I saw some people connected the fan power cables to eachother, so they have 1 3pins plug for al 3 fans.

Is this a good/safe idea and if yes, how to do that?

---

As to how to do it, I must give full credit to Shazza. She has condensed all the links into the post below:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by shazza

Here are a few links that might help with respect to sleeving and connecting 2 or 3 fans together for a radiator:

This sleeving guide is very good

This one shows connecting 3 fans for a radiator

A general sleeving guide

Yet Another one

And yet another one...

---

The thread in question can be found here, initiated by MonkeyHood:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...33#post2574933


Pay attention to the yellow wires, as per Shazza:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by shazza

Check out the second link in my post above. It gives instructions and details.

You only need to save the yellow wire on one of the fans you are connecting, and only then if you want to hook it up to an RPM monitor. Easiest thing to do is hook it up to a fan controller, where you adjust the speed manually. Make sure you don't just connect them all together and then plug into one of your motherboard fan leads ... that may cause a problem.

You can mess around with extenders/splitters, but you'll be better off doing it yourself. It's not that hard once you do the first one - it's actually kind of addicting.

---

As to whether you need to do it, its entire optional. My personal opinion is that it is purely a matter of aesthetics and it is for looks, and not performance.

I haven't done it, and I probably will never do it. I personally think messing with wires and electric connections only introduces an additional risk element, even though one believes that one is an expert at electronics. I personally don't care about such appearances, and I consider it trivial.

Don't let my personal opinion influence you. You should do what you believe makes sense and feels comfortable. My job is to supply you with the information so that you can make the decision.

Iany, thnx again for your usefull information!

I read it all!
And damn, that's a no go for me :D

With my clumsy hands, I'm sure I will short circuit something :P

I'll just use tyreps to get it all nicely done :)

Do you guys think there will be a big cool performance loss, if I have 5 intake fans and 7 outtake fans?
(since the amount is not equal to eachother)

Balancing the airflow by itself is not the biggest deal on earth, as long as there's enough of it.

So you think it won't be a problem to put 6 fans on the rads as OUT.
1 OUT at back of the PSU.

2 on top IN, blowing on mobo (cause I have MM horizon case).
1 back IN, blowing over mobo.
2 back IN, blowing under mobo, straight to the rads.

So will the case have enough IN take for the RADS to cool?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Akuma2000

So you think it won't be a problem to put 6 fans on the rads as OUT.
1 OUT at back of the PSU.

2 on top IN, blowing on mobo (cause I have MM horizon case).
1 back IN, blowing over mobo.
2 back IN, blowing under mobo, straight to the rads.

So will the case have enough IN take for the RADS to cool?

---

I'll tell you what I personally would do.

Since you have a Horizon, the one big change I would make is..... the fans in your ceiling should blow out of the case as exhaust fans.

I would have fresh air blow into the case over your rads. Its often a good idea to bring cold air outside your case to blow over your radiators. This lets you have the lowest cpu temps.

In general, simple physics dictates that fans high up in your case should blow out because, simply, hot air rises.

Your horizontal mobo format would best be served by having hot air in the ceiling exhausted. Otherwise, hot air would be trapped in your mosfet area.

Other than that, I wouldn'tlose sleep over it. I don't think its all that important.

Yeah I was thinking the same.
But I don't want the dust filters at front :P :P :P

But performance is more important, so I think I'll just use the front (rad) as intake.


Anyway, another question.

My Thermochill 120.3 rads.
I flushed them with distilled water (I have a cheap pump, to pump it around)
I flushed it with boiled tap water (about 5 liters per rad!!!)
I flushed it again with distilled water
The water is as good as clear as it comes out of the rad.
BUUUT there is still a lot of veeery tiny shiny things in the water.

Is this a problem or can I just let it be?