Please note the capacitor explosion of P5K-E

The capacitor of my P5K-E exploded suddenly. :shocked:
A big load never hung.
The loud sound and the smoke and the smell......

Condition
M/B : ASUS P5K-E
CPU : E6700
PSU : OCZ PowerStream 520W
Vcore : 1.65V
Clock : 4.5GHz
CPU Temp : -70C

Image of exploding capacitor
http://homepage2.nifty.com/NewBeetle..._Explosion.jpg

I repaired it. :D

Removal of capacitor
http://homepage2.nifty.com/NewBeetle/before.jpg

Replacement of capacitor(1000μＦ/16V)
http://homepage2.nifty.com/NewBeetle/after.jpg

Fortunately, CPU and the power supply were safely. :)
Mobo came to work when capacitor was exchanged.
I tested it with E6700 and P4-631.
It seems to have made the repair good. :up:

E6700 MAX FSB on water
http://homepage2.nifty.com/NewBeetle/P5K-E_6x563.png

P4-631 MAX Clock(SPi-1M) under LN2
(There is a bug for CPU-Z, and SetFSB is correct) :confused:
http://homepage2.nifty.com/NewBeetle...s360_P5K-E.png

DEWA DEWA～
NewBeetle

ZOMGWTFBBQ! Nice repair job, though.

so it just unravelled itself?
goes of on a kaboom, then unravels this black rubber?

pushing a bit too hard on oc's there I guess :D

nice repair job there :)

what is the value of replaced capacitor?

I'd guess that at 4.5GHz and 1.65V the ripple current was just too high for that poor cap. Please measure the resistance of the caps contacts to the empty pad for another cap, on the right next to the FETs. If they are directly connected, I'd advise you to add another cap there and have a look at the ripple current values of the caps that you add. Perhaps it'll help your overclock. ;)

wow I've never heard of a sold cap exploding before. It looks pretty crazy. Did it look like that right away or did you pull at the capacitor cap first?

Nice repair job.

where is the aluminium cover? did it hit the ceiling?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by justin_c

so it just unravelled itself?
goes of on a kaboom, then unravels this black rubber?

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Yes, it unravelled itself by explosion.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mutapha

what is the value of replaced capacitor?

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1000μＦ/16V

Left : original capacitor cap ---------------------- Right : replaced capacitor
http://homepage2.nifty.com/NewBeetle...l_replaced.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by celemine1Gig

I'd guess that at 4.5GHz and 1.65V the ripple current was just too high for that poor cap. Please measure the resistance of the caps contacts to the empty pad for another cap, on the right next to the FETs. If they are directly connected, I'd advise you to add another cap there and have a look at the ripple current values of the caps that you add. Perhaps it'll help your overclock. ;)

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Thank you very much for your advice.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ineedaname

wow I've never heard of a sold cap exploding before. It looks pretty crazy. Did it look like that right away or did you pull at the capacitor cap first?

Nice repair job.

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The image shows the state after the explosion almost.
The cap of the capacitor flew like the bullet. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Morais

where is the aluminium cover? did it hit the ceiling?

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Yes, it hit the ceiling and flew somewhere in the room. :eek:
I was able to find it by the next day's coming.

Wow that thing could've put somebodys eye out.... Nice repair BTW.

That looks pretty bad NewBeetle :shocked:

Well if something is going to blow up, it's better a cap than something else like a CPU. Thats an interesting bug with CPU-Z, I have not seen it report falsely for quite some time.

OT: The capacitors last word: Blow me b****!!!

NewBeetle you need to bench with safety googles/glasses :D

I thougt aluminium caps did not explode/leak that easy?
What was the vcore you were running at the time of the explosion?

So much for solid caps :D

Shouldn't you have replaced the exploded cap with something slightly better higher rated max voltage/capacitance just for good measure?

yea he should bench behind some ballistic glass. :P

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ineedaname

yea he should bench behind some ballistic glass. :P

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no kidding!

That was a very nice repair job though:up:

so much for the solid cap hype :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ziddey

so much for the solid cap hype :)

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Great conclusion. :rolleyes:

The solid caps are indeed better and you could argue as long as you wanted. This wouldn't change. It's the circuit design that makes the difference. I doubt that Asus designed this particular board for someone running his CPU at 4.6GHz with 1.65V VCore. That's the point. ;)

Edit: Sorry, of course I meant 4.5Ghz with 1.65V VCore.

Thank you for your comment, friedchips-san, G H Z-san, TTmodder-san, eva2000-san, El Snorro-san, stealthbomber-san, ineedaname-san, White B-san, ziddey-san, celemine1Gig-san :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by G H Z

That looks pretty bad NewBeetle :shocked:

Well if something is going to blow up, it's better a cap than something else like a CPU. Thats an interesting bug with CPU-Z, I have not seen it report falsely for quite some time.

---

It seems not CPU-Z's bug but P5K-E's BIOS bug. :confused:
Because CPU-Z is OK for P4-631 with P5B-D or P5K or P965-S. :yepp:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by eva2000

NewBeetle you need to bench with safety googles/glasses :D

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As I am a chemist, I always do benches putting on safety glasses and experiment wear. :p:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by El Snorro

I thougt aluminium caps did not explode/leak that easy?
What was the vcore you were running at the time of the explosion?

---

Vcore was 1.65V and system was not running bench but idle. :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stealthbomber

So much for solid caps :D

Shouldn't you have replaced the exploded cap with something slightly better higher rated max voltage/capacitance just for good measure?

---

As 1000μＦ/16V capacitors are used with P5B-D's EATX-12V line, I used it.
And it seems OK because I can get WR with this repaired board. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ineedaname

yea he should bench behind some ballistic glass. :P

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Always I put it. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by White B

no kidding!

That was a very nice repair job though:up:

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It's OK because I like joke. :p:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by celemine1Gig

Great conclusion. :rolleyes:

The solid caps are indeed better and you could argue as long as you wanted. This wouldn't change. It's the circuit design that makes the difference. I doubt that Asus designed this particular board for someone running his CPU at 4.6GHz with 1.65V VCore. That's the point. ;)

Edit: Sorry, of course I meant 4.5Ghz with 1.65V VCore.

---

It is as you say.
ASUS produces good boards.
I think the defect of the capacitor caused this accident.

DEWA DEWA ～
NewBeetle

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NewBeetle

It is as you say.
ASUS produces good boards.
I think the defect of the capacitor caused this accident.

DEWA DEWA ～
NewBeetle

---

Hi NewBeetle,

I don't even think that the capacitor was defective to begin with. I rather think that it was just not rated high enough to withstand the extreme current draw of your CPU at 4.5GHz with 1.65V. It seems that this cap is filtering the 12V-EPS 8-pin power connector that is located right next to it. The CPU draws it's main power from there.
As I said, I think the ripple current just got too big for the cap, thus it exploded. If there would've been two of the these solid caps in parallel, I think they would still be OK. But the single one was just not up to the extreme task. Perhaps your replacement cap has got a higher ripple current rating, or it's just the larger physical size that let's it withstand more strain and that's why it's still OK.

The caps on my P5K-E appear to be different:

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...K-E_Socket.jpg

:)

Looks like your board has slightly higher rated caps, NewBeetle's been ripped off, typical Asus, even their high end boards are inconsistent in the parts used :D

LOL dude thats awful , but may i ask where i the shell of the cap ?

mukmaster

man that really sucks. I can't believe they used lower rated caps on new beetle's board.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ineedaname

man that really sucks. I can't believe they used lower rated caps on new beetle's board.

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And who proved that? Where are the datasheets to back up this claim?

Ohhhh........Bad explosion.....:(

I have to say that even IF companies use Class A components, there are ALWAYS posibilities some of them to get damaged.......Maybe one at 100000, BUT it is happening.....You can't be sure EVEN if you use the top out of the top components......;)

You can't even trust your own a(r)ss...
He will doublecross you too sometimes coz you will think that is a ppprrrrrrr and it will be liquid shi(f)t...... :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hipro5

Ohhhh........Bad explosion.....:(


You can't even trust your own a(r)ss...
He will doublecross you too sometimes coz you will think that is a ppprrrrrrr and it will be liquid shi(f)t...... :D

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HaHa. LOL, with George. Getting older can be such a biatch...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hipro5

Ohhhh........Bad explosion.....:(

I have to say that even IF companies use Class A components, there are ALWAYS posibilities some of them to get damaged.......Maybe one at 100000, BUT it is happening.....You can't be sure EVEN if you use the top out of the top components......;)

You can't even trust your own a(r)ss...
He will doublecross you too sometimes coz you will think that is a ppprrrrrrr and it will be liquid shi(f)t...... :D

---

I've seen a lot of people here laugh at some pretty stupid stuff but that is funny. Mod's are ok with the bypassing of the curse words eh?:ROTF:

what caught my eye on this was i *accidentally* dented one of the caps right next to my CPU socket(damn scythe infintiy). Hoping the slight dent doesn't turn into something like this down the road.

Allright, here's another case of exploding caps. Just finished my mods and upped the voltages slight. Board booted fine and everything seemed to be okay.

Then suddenly a BANG, black smoke and the smell of burned electronics.

http://members.home.nl/jdaandels/condendator.jpg

Mobo: Asus P5k DLX
Vcore was at 1.5V (1.3 from bios, 0.2V additional from vCore mod)
Temp @ -93C
Tagan 800W PSU.

I still have to find out if my other hardware is working fine.

I'm going to try to replace it as well, few question though:

- What's the difference between the red and the blue caps?
- Should I go for the 1600 uF as well, or should take a 1800 uF cap or someting like that?



Hope nobody is going to experience this

what another P5K-Deluxe blows a cap.........this is worrying i wanted to but a something from the P5K line.............maybe now i wont.
And YoupY -- i would get a higher rated cap, that one blew, so i would get a cap with larger capacitance & higher voltage rating. Its the ripple current thats killing them so higher voltage rating should give more headroom.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by celemine1Gig

And who proved that? Where are the datasheets to back up this claim?

---

Man if you just bothered to look up you would see KITT's picture urself....

Kitt's P5K-E
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...K-E_Socket.jpg

Newbeetle's P5K-E
http://homepage2.nifty.com/NewBeetle..._Explosion.jpg
http://homepage2.nifty.com/NewBeetle...l_replaced.jpg

560uf 6v vs 561uf 6.3v

I can't really make out the numbers on the equivalent blown cap on kitt's board but its obviously a different colour.
Looks like 271uf 16v vs 370uf 16v?

Do I still need data sheets?

RE:YoupY

Hmmm that's the same cap as newbeetle's blown cap and judging by my board its the same rated cap that blew too. I also noticed that my board has slightly different caps as YoupY. The ones surrounding the socket are the same as kitt's while the blown cap is the same as newbeetle's. I was a bit scared while trying 2 read it :p: might've blown up in my eye.

After a second look I noticed that the blown cap is actually different than the one in my board. The top number is 744 on newbeetle's while mine is 724. Not quite sure what that number stands for. I wonder what the cap is on YoupY's board.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ineedaname

Man if you just bothered to look up you would see KITT's picture urself....

Kitt's P5K-E
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...K-E_Socket.jpg

Newbeetle's P5K-E
http://homepage2.nifty.com/NewBeetle..._Explosion.jpg
http://homepage2.nifty.com/NewBeetle...l_replaced.jpg

560uf 6v vs 561uf 6.3v

I can't really make out the numbers on the equivalent blown cap on kitt's board but its obviously a different colour.
Looks like 271uf 16v vs 370uf 16v?

Do I still need data sheets?

RE:YoupY

Hmmm that's the same cap as newbeetle's blown cap and judging by my board its the same rated cap that blew too. I also noticed that my board has slightly different caps as YoupY. The ones surrounding the socket are the same as kitt's while the blown cap is the same as newbeetle's. I was a bit scared while trying 2 read it :p: might've blown up in my eye.

After a second look I noticed that the blown cap is actually different than the one in my board. The top number is 744 on newbeetle's while mine is 724. Not quite sure what that number stands for. I wonder what the cap is on YoupY's board.

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I just checked my P5K vanilla, the cheapest of the P5K boards, even I have the 561uf 6.3v caps on my board which seem to be higher rated than newbeattles P5K Dlx :S

As for the cap beside the 4pin (P5K only has 4pin, not 8pin) it was 271uf 16v cap

@ineedaname:

No offence, but if you don't know what you are talking about then don't talk to me like you did. I asked for facts. Datasheets that show that the caps are really worse. Noone posted that. So, please, if you don't even know how to read the ratings on the caps, then keep your thoughts to yourself. ;) The cap that blew on Newbeetle's board was a 270µF 16V cap. The top number is perhaps just a date code, but as I don't have datasheets, I don't know for sure. And if I'm not totally mistaking the 560µF cap that you are obviously talking (561) about can't be the right equivalent to the one that exploded on Newbeetle's board, as the cap is quite sure filtering the 12V EPS 8-Pin power connector. Therefore it can't be rated at 6.3V. ;)

BTW, the other difference that you noted between the red 6V 561 (560µF) caps on the one board and the 6.3V rated 561 caps on the other board is just a different manufacturer. Perhaps they even have the exact same ratings. I know for sure that the purple ones are from Sanyo, but unfortunately I don't know the manufacturer of the red caps. It's an absolutely legitimate procedure for a manufacturer to change suppliers of some parts depending on current prices and availability. That doesn't necessarily mean that one is better than the other.


We are talking about this cap:

http://www.fh-augsburg.de/~madocer/P...xplodedcap.jpg

So what does it say on top of it? I can't really decipher the information printed ontop of it as the pic is too blurry for me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by celemine1Gig

@ineedaname:

No offence, but if you don't know what you are talking about then don't talk to me like you did. I asked for facts. Datasheets that show that the caps are really worse. Noone posted that. So, please, if you don't even know how to read the ratings on the caps, then keep your thoughts to yourself. ;) The cap that blew on Newbeetle's board was a 270µF 16V cap. The top number is perhaps just a date code, but as I don't have datasheets, I don't know for sure. And if I'm not totally mistaking the 560µF cap that you are obviously talking (561) about can't be the right equivalent to the one that exploded on Newbeetle's board, as the cap is quite sure filtering the 12V EPS 8-Pin power connector. Therefore it can't be rated at 6.3V. ;)

BTW, the other difference that you noted between the red 6V 561 (560µF) caps on the one board and the 6.3V rated 561 caps on the other board is just a different manufacturer. Perhaps they even have the exact same ratings. I know for sure that the purple ones are from Sanyo, but unfortunately I don't know the manufacturer of the red caps. It's an absolutely legitimate procedure for a manufacturer to change suppliers of some parts depending on current prices and availability. That doesn't necessarily mean that one is better than the other.


We are talking about this cap:

http://www.fh-augsburg.de/~madocer/P...xplodedcap.jpg

So what does it say on top of it? I can't really decipher the information printed ontop of it as the pic is too blurry for me.

---

Hold on, I'll try and get a pic. It's now mounted in my case, so might be a little tricky :dammit:

I'd bet it's rated 16V. It also looks like it in the blurry pic. Just curious what capacitance rating it's got.

FYI, CapHounds:

1st + 2nd digits are prime value and 3rd digit is number of "zeros"
example: 1000uf capacitor would be marked "102"
(note: some manufactures/batches will use "xx0" instead of "xx1," when the value is less than 999)

- Low ESR (leakage) caps are essential for proper operation PWM voltage circuits
- operational temperature spec is also important, since most of these caps are near hot components, ie., MOSFETs, inductors
- 105c extended temperature types are usually installed, as opposed to "standard-grade" caps, rated at 85c
- lastly, rated working dc voltage should never be exceeded

NewBeetles pic, the original "271" @ 16vdc capacitor would be 270uf @ 16vdc
note: seems to be a bit low for 12vdc CPU input power filter capacitor

K.I.T.T's caps show "561," which is 560uf @ 6.3vdc

YoupY's cap shows "560," which is 560uf @ 6.3vdc

The "mystery" cap with blue markings looks to me to be 270uf @ 16vdc, which appears to be the same 12vdc CPU input filter
cap that blew on NewBeetle's board, only made by a different manufacturer.

Here's some reference material I collected before buying a P5WDH, early last year, when all the "solid/polymer" electrolytic "poopoo" hit marketecture/public domain:

- appears RED with "F" marking is made by Fujitsu
- not sure about blue/violet/aqua markings, but could be Nichicon
- (see links to polymer/solid cap data sheets below)

**********

P5WDH; Rev 1.02g, 66M0AG

Electrolytic Capacitors

10uf 25vdc 10 4.2mm x 11.5
100uf 16vdc 10 5mm x 11.5mm
220uf 16vdc 2 6.5mm x 11.5mm
330uf 6.3vdc 4 6.5mm x 11.5mm Nichi LG

470uf 16vdc 5 8mm x 11.5mm Nichi LG
820uf 6.3vdc 23 8mm x 11.5mm Nichi LG
1000uf 16vdc 4 8mm x 20mm

*******************

Solid Polymer Electrolytic Capacitors

470uf 6.3vdc 3 8mm x 11mm NU (8x11.5), L8 (8x8), Nichi LG
820uf 2.5vdc 11 8mm x 8mm L8 (8x8), Nichi LG

FUJITSU FCAP (red markings)
http://jp.fujitsu.com/group/fmd/en/s...citor/line-up/

NICHICON LG or LE types (bluish/aqua markings)
http://www.nichicon-us.com/english/index.html

This has got to be a cold bug thing becuase all of the exploding caps happend at - temps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mukmaster

This has got to be a cold bug thing becuase all of the exploding caps happend at - temps.

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Maybe it's just heavy loads, causing great ripple and then explosion of the capacitor... :shrug:

Yesterday I tried to revive the board. In my case replacing the capacitor didn't do the trick. Because I wasn't able to remove the exploded cap as nice as Newbeetle I placed the replacement 1000 uF 16V on the backside of the board with short wires, also I made sure the negative side of the cap was placed on the board the right way. Most likely the exploded cap destroyed some other components, or shorted some other things. No visible indication on the board of that however.

After what should be a life saving operation I fired up the board again my board started to smell really bad, and again black smoke. This time from the mosfets. My board had 12V and 20 amps running through it judging wires. The plastic isolation was completely gone :(

I just am hoping now my CPU did survive, however it's very likely it died also in the first explosion and presumed shortage.

I'm not sure I this is related to subzero temps. I think we are all going a little bit more extreme with the hardware as Asus intended and the board just couldn't handle it. Also if the solid caps wouldn't handle sub zero temps I think we would have more reported cases (maybe even movies) of exploding caps.

At the moment my cap exploded there was no big load on the system / strain on the cap. One other possibility which may be causing this is the vCore mod, I trust the guys who do find out all this, but, rewiring the board may cause unexpeded results.

Anyway:

:banana::banana::banana::banana: happens...

Probability of electrolytic caps (or most electronic components) failing due to "cold" temps in unlikely
- Fujutsu polymer caps, (from datasheets in above link) are designed to operate from -55c to 105c
- typical MOSFETs used in PC power modulators, ie., ON 40N03R, spec -55c to 175c
- high current demand causing ripple is probably not the cause, since PWM/switching capacitors are designed for high ripple

Most quality PC PSUs have current limiters/short detection and should have shutdown the "problem" rail (total short)
- if the DC output stage of the PSU is "defective" and is delivering higher voltage, that could be one cause
- second, is the "inrush volts/current" regulation at power-up of the PSU (first 100msec) is being exceeded
- my guess is the MB PWM controller system failed or a control component has drifted out of spec, due to excessive vMod?
- or simple case of defective capacitors....

Just out of curiosity, what make/model of PSU are you two using? NewBeetle and YoupY

Edit: re-read and see: Newbeetle: OCZ PowerStream 520W and YoupY: Tagan 800W PSU

total bummer, YoupY....

but contrary to what you all have said . Every cap thats exploded has been at a very low temperature. I still believe this is related to a cold bug/failure. nay other IDeas.

I got my new board yesterday, Abit IP35 Pro. Allmost everything seems fine. Memory, vid card and PSU are still working fine.

The strange thing is my CPU. Something weird is going on.

http://members.home.nl/jdaandels/340FSB.jpg

When I'm booting I now boot at 3060 Mhz with a 340 FSB instead of the 333.

AFAIK all OC-options are disabled in the bios and everything is at default. Can anybody explain this or do I need to assume the exploding cap modded my CPU to a 340FSB one... :?

I don't know if the new default FSB speed or the new abit board is having such a good effect on my maximum OC, however with the P5k I was able to reach 510 FSB on air and 556 on PhCh. Now I'm able to reach 528 on air and 573 on PhCh.

Don't worry the abit boards run with a slight overclock at "stock" it's nothing to be worried about ;)

Did you remove the cpu before you powered the repaired board on again? the cpu is pretty well buffered by capacitors, i doubt it would have taken much of a hit voltage or current wise in the first blowup, as none of them blew or leaked. I hope its all ok :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Johnny Bravo

Don't worry the abit boards run with a slight overclock at "stock" it's nothing to be worried about ;)

---

+1.
Whatever Abit considers "stock" speeds, add 6MHz on the FSB. 333+6->340MHz, which is the "new stock" speed for your 6850. :)
Going into Manual and setting 333 should fix this.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NewBeetle

The capacitor of my P5K-E exploded suddenly. :shocked:
A big load never hung.
The loud sound and the smoke and the smell......

Condition
M/B : ASUS P5K-E
CPU : E6700
PSU : OCZ PowerStream 520W
Vcore : 1.65V
Clock : 4.5GHz
CPU Temp : -70C

Image of exploding capacitor
http://homepage2.nifty.com/NewBeetle..._Explosion.jpg

I repaired it. :D

Removal of capacitor
http://homepage2.nifty.com/NewBeetle/before.jpg

Replacement of capacitor(1000μＦ/16V)
http://homepage2.nifty.com/NewBeetle/after.jpg

Fortunately, CPU and the power supply were safely. :)
Mobo came to work when capacitor was exchanged.
I tested it with E6700 and P4-631.
It seems to have made the repair good. :up:

[
NewBeetle

---

Can i use your pics ( with credentials ) in my blog ?

Thks

1.65v doesnt seem too excessive...?

Quote:

---

I'd guess that at 4.5GHz and 1.65V the ripple current was just too high for that poor cap. Please measure the resistance of the caps contacts to the empty pad for another cap, on the right next to the FETs. If they are directly connected, I'd advise you to add another cap there and have a look at the ripple current values of the caps that you add. Perhaps it'll help your overclock.

---

better/less ripple psu may have helped....

clocking to 5.6GHz may not have helped either...

but all the same, cheap anus boards for extreme oc = no by the looks :yawn:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MAValpha

+1.
Whatever Abit considers "stock" speeds, add 6MHz on the FSB. 333+6->340MHz, which is the "new stock" speed for your 6850. :)
Going into Manual and setting 333 should fix this.

---

I was already under the impression Abit couldn't just set the cpu to it's default speed. But why on earth should I set it to 333 :confused:

I'd rather try if I can get over 572...

Hope nobody more blows up the cap, but it seems like a wise idea to replace it before it will explode...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bonobo

Can i use your pics ( with credentials ) in my blog ?

Thks

---

Hi, bonobo-san.
Of course, you can use my pics. :up:

Regards
NewBeetle

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NewBeetle

Hi, bonobo-san.
Of course, you can use my pics. :up:

Regards
NewBeetle

---

Yay for the niceness :clap:

My friend just called me: capacitor on his P5K dlx exploded few mins ago. Tomorrow Ill replace this cap with new one. Only one question why ASUS marks on the PCB plus leg of capacitor instead of minus, like others manufacturers?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ent

My friend just called me: capacitor on his P5K dlx exploded few mins ago. Tomorrow Ill replace this cap with new one. Only one question why ASUS marks on the PCB plus leg of capacitor instead of minus, like others manufacturers?

---

If I'm not mistaking, they've already done it like that years ago and never changed their way of marking + instead of - , like all other manufacturers that I know of. As you know that they do it this way, it won't get you in trouble. It's just strange, but hey it's Asus. :D

Good luck with your repair job. ;)

Seems its always that same cap. Could it be heat related, what temp are those caps speced for? I measured temp at the base of that cap under only 1.54v load and it was 84C. :o Added a 120mm and it dropped by almost 20C.

It must be a combination of ripple and excessive heat that is traveling from the mosfets through the PCB into the cap. Those solid caps tend to absorb heat better than the standard electrolytic caps. That's why they seem to get hotter. And if I'm not totally wrong, the caps are spec'd for 105°C.

So can we assume that it is a design error on all ASUS P35 mobos?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by celemine1Gig

Good luck with your repair job. ;)

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Thx! :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ent

So can we assume that it is a design error on all ASUS P35 mobos?

Thx! :D

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Good question. I wouldn't go as far as calling it a design flaw. Perhaps it's only certain batches of boards that had weak caps, too. I don't really know. Perhaps they just overdid it with saving money by using less caps. I don't have a P5K-E, so I won't judge on it. Let's just say it for sure is suboptimal. :)
It could also be that they didn't think of the stress that overclocking will cause for this special cap when doing the calculations for the right cap ratings. That doesn't necessarily mean that it's a design flaw, as overclocking will never be guaranteed, but still it would be pretty sad.

Guys I cant get today capacitor same as NewBeetle used on his repair I have to decide which one would be best:
- 16V 1500uF
- 25V 470uF
- 35V 1000uF

Al of the of course are said to be low ESR, can anyone help in deciding what capacitor to use?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ent

Guys I cant get today capacitor same as NewBeetle used on his repair I have to decide which one would be best:
- 16V 1500uF
- 25V 470uF
- 35V 1000uF

Al of the of course are said to be low ESR, can anyone help in deciding what capacitor to use?

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More information please. Manufacturer, series, temperature and ripple current rating...

All I know about them are their main parameters and the 1500uF/16V caps are manufactured by TEAPO. Probally all of them are cheap Chinese products. I will get the 470uF/25V and 1000uF/35V in the evening.

I didn't manage to repair that P5K dlx :(, something else than capacitor must be damaged, a put a few caps there to check if it is a problem with single one or with badly choosen capacity but nothing helps :(

A few days ago, a capacitor got blown on one of our forum member's Asus P5K Vanilla. He did replace it and the board continued to work just fine, but this seems to become a general issue with this boards....It doesn't matter that those boards are not thought to operate at 5Ghz with 1.9v or whatever, other boards don't seem to have this problem.

@celemine1Gig: I haven't read this thread in a while. You yourself were being rude. Instead of barking at me to get data sheets you could just go get your own data sheets or show me how I'm wrong.

I don't mind being corrected. You could have just showed me why it is wrong and pointed me at the right direction. All i originally wanted 2 say was that it sucked if newbeetle got bad caps on his board.

Also i was not trying to state that the blue cap was the same as the purple caps on kitts board. I was just trying 2 say that since kitts board didn't blow while newbeetle's board blew and that they were both using different caps that probably newbeetle's caps were crappier. That may be wrong but its an honest assumption.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ineedaname

@celemine1Gig: I haven't read this thread in a while. You yourself were being rude. Instead of barking at me to get data sheets you could just go get your own data sheets or show me how I'm wrong.

I don't mind being corrected. You could have just showed me why it is wrong and pointed me at the right direction. All i originally wanted 2 say was that it sucked if newbeetle got bad caps on his board.

Also i was not trying to state that the blue cap was the same as the purple caps on kitts board. I was just trying 2 say that since kitts board didn't blow while newbeetle's board blew and that they were both using different caps that probably newbeetle's caps were crappier. That may be wrong but its an honest assumption.

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Did you just happen to have a backflash? :D

I don't have the time to find datasheets for you(hint: the links are already located in this particular thread).Just compare the caps data.

All I wanted to say is: Don't assume that some capacitor might not be as good as another, but back it up with some data that is readily available online. ;) And most likely it isn't really a question of using a 270µF 16V Fujitsu, or 270µF 16V Sanyo solid cap (they might be rated pretty much exactly the same), but using a cap that might not be rated up to the task anyway.


This is in no way intended as a personal attack. Think about it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Monstru

A few days ago, a capacitor got blown on one of our forum member's Asus P5K Vanilla. He did replace it and the board continued to work just fine, but this seems to become a general issue with this boards....It doesn't matter that those boards are not thought to operate at 5Ghz with 1.9v or whatever, other boards don't seem to have this problem.

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ASUS P5N32-E SLI 680I, Blew same cap as well. CPU @ 1.5Vcore 4.8ghz P4 631 -75c Im thinking ASUS + CAPS + SUB Zero = problems :)

I Have had the same problem on other asus boards, P965, 975.... all while sub zero cooling....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by V2-V3

ASUS P5N32-E SLI 680I, Blew same cap as well. CPU @ 1.5Vcore 4.8ghz P4 631 -75c Im thinking ASUS + CAPS + SUB Zero = problems :)

I Have had the same problem on other asus boards, P965, 975.... all while sub zero cooling....

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If all boards were used with subzero cooling while the caps exploded, this would perhaps explain the behaviour. If I recall it correctly, the caps are not rated for such low temps. And most likely there's a reason for it. I even think hipro5 did mention something about the solid caps and subzero temps lately. Perhaps in his Asus Formula modding thread? I'm not sure anymore. It wasn't long ago.

Mine blew up on normal air cooling temps, at idle, and low voltage.
The new P5K3 Deluxe will more than likely blow up like my first did, but that's one week away, need to review some stuff now :p:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BenchZowner

Mine blew up on normal air cooling temps, at idle, and low voltage.
The new P5K3 Deluxe will more than likely blow up like my first did, but that's one week away, need to review some stuff now :p:

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And there goes the nice subzero theory. :D Back to what we had before.

Just as an observation. I've noticed that the solid caps used on these newer mobo's are alot lower rated than regular caps on older mobo's.

I dunno what difference that would make but just an observation. Like looking back at a bunch of old socket 478 mobo's they use a lot of caps with 3300uF. Maybe they make up 4 the capacitance with solid caps by putting them in series.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ineedaname

Just as an observation. I've noticed that the solid caps used on these newer mobo's are alot lower rated than regular caps on older mobo's.

I dunno what difference that would make but just an observation. Like looking back at a bunch of old socket 478 mobo's they use a lot of caps with 3300uF. Maybe they make up 4 the capacitance with solid caps by putting them in series.

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Have a look at this, please:

http://edc.sanyo.com/english/pdf/osc...scon_basic.pdf

:up:

I bet this completely re vamps the phrase "bust a cap"

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Thakkerson

I bet this completely re vamps the phrase "bust a cap"

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And you redefine bumping.

OMG thread necro