Gigabyte GA-965P-DQ6/DS4 & ThermalTake Big Typhoon (+ HSF Air-duct mod) - GUIDE

G'day all,

I present to you,

Gigabyte GA-965P-DQ6/DS4 &
ThermalTake Big Typhoon
with Crazy Cool... guide.
Now also available, Part 2 - HSF-Duct Mod

http://www.gam.net.au/pcmods/images/3320.500.fe.jpg

I have a DQ6 and installed my new Big Typhoon straight over the top of the Crazy Cool heatspreader.

See pictures and commentary:
http://www.gam.net.au/dq6-ttbt/index.htm [3MB]

See also - Part 2 - HSF-Duct Mod (Gigabyte GA-965P-DQ6, ThermalTake Big Typhoon):
http://www.gam.net.au/dq6-ttbt/duct.htm

And now, Part 3 (or Duct Mod - Part 2!), new duct from new materials, fitted to incorporate the latest window mod, etc:
http://www.gam.net.au/pcmods/dq6-ttbt-duct2.htm

Enjoy. :thumbsup:

ps. Please excuse errors and omissions for the time-being. Will update. Feel free to let me know any errors you spot.
[edit] Minor updates and some tips inserted - 11 Sept 2006

nice guide! this will surely help me.. thanks

Thanks for the very detailed install guide, but TBH...i thik i'll buy the VX version of the TTBT as it's a simple snap n' go install with the Intel retention mechanism design.

I wasn't aware of a 'VX' version. Am now, though.

I don't like those little nuts, particulary with the DQ6's radiators and all, but I suspect you might find the 'push-pin' retention mechanism difficult to install nevertheless. Even the stock cooler with push-pins was difficult because one or two pins wouldn't always snap-in convincingly.

They've done away with the backplate? Interesting. I wonder what the reasoning for-and-against is here?

nice tutorial.

now correct me if im wrong here but that backplate is gunna be sitting right against the back of the pc case..

nice work

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lestat

nice tutorial.

now correct me if im wrong here but that backplate is gunna be sitting right against the back of the pc case..

---

Yes, you are right. I have four little scratch marks as a result. As mentioned, the (round) bolt heads touch the motherboard tray because they protrude beyond the plate rather than sitting flush with the surface. Hence the need to replace the bolts with countersunk versions as was intended by the designers (given the countersunk holes in the backplate) and the addition of Nylon washers to the motherboard standoffs.

Thanks everyone for the 'thanks' and 'praises'.

Bigger job than expected (the guide that is).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lestat

nice tutorial.

now correct me if im wrong here but that backplate is gunna be sitting right against the back of the pc case..

---

Further info/evidence:
A countersunk head would sit flush and not touch the motherboard tray.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&d=1157240693 http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&d=1157240977
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&d=1157240790

Now also available for viewing:

Part 2 - HSF-Duct Mod (Gigabyte GA-965P-DQ6, ThermalTake Big Typhoon):
http://www.gam.net.au/dq6-ttbt/duct.htm

Please express your comments and feedback on this concept. I believe it has merits.

Note, unfortunately I can not provide any test and analysis data as the motherboard died shortly after putting it all together (no reflection on the mod... I hope :rolleyes: )

Enjoy :thumbsup:

Remove the stupid alminium plate with "6-QUAD" on it. It is basically a dull sticker that does nothing but blocking cooling fins, it can be easily removed since gigabyte used double sides tape to stick it on the place. I removed mine on DS4

Quote:

---

as the motherboard died shortly after putting it all together

---

:eek: That's .... so unfortunate...

you should do a turture test of at least 24 hrs before modding anything, in case they fail because of any poor quality component

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by FunkyRider

Remove the stupid alminium plate with "6-QUAD" on it. It is basically a dull sticker that does nothing but blocking cooling fins, it can be easily removed since gigabyte used double sides tape to stick it on the place. I removed mine on DS4

:eek: That's .... so unfortunate...

you should do a turture test of at least 24 hrs before modding anything, in case they fail because of any poor quality component

---

I like the suggestion to remove the aluminium plates. Probably would do so if I was here. :(

As far as torturing goes--did that, lot's of it. Literally, ran dual prime for 23.5 hrs the night before disassembly. All was 'sweet' :D. But no, I didn't 're-stress' after a BIOS update and reverted OC settings--refer to http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=112754.
Quite unfortunate. Mmmm, haven't heard from the flaky supplier yet either. They sat on it for at least two days. Could be more now; I haven't heard from them since I followed up.

links say bandwidth exceeded :rolleyes:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by a5h

links say bandwidth exceeded :rolleyes:

---

yeap:rolleyes:

Hmmm... Will look into that. Sorry guys. :slapass:

Bandwidth fixed

i don't know about that airduct material (paper) around some nasty hot mofo components mate hmmm

Yeah, cardboard. If the mod works, I do intend replacing with something more appropriate (not exactly sure what yet), but the cardboard doesn't really come into contact with much other than the radiator fins/heatpipes except one area near the northbridge heatsink.

At what temp does cardboard ignite? :p:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GAM

At what temp does cardboard ignite? :p:

---

lol i guess we'll find out........get the hose ready heheheheh

GAM, thanks for the good work u've done there !

About that duct, any real life testing with and without it ? Like CPU temp, MB temp , VDroop (related to those mosfets) and etc.

Hope I'm not asking too much ! :D

Not asking too much at all. I wish I either knew already or could provide, but I am without DQ6 since the mod - waiting on Gigabyte, 1.5 weeks or so now. Buggers.

Dinos, will have to relocate the fire extinguisher from the Kitchen to the office :rolleyes:

Gam I performed the same Mod on the Typhoon GQ6 however I had to dremel a hole in the Mobo tray to ensure no contact other than the Mobo on the normal standoffs.

This was in a P180 case and it all seems to work fine, I am not too sure of the effects if the backplate is sitting on the mobo tray but if there is any leakage short anywhere else it may present issues to the board.

Nice one. Bloody good idea-openings in MB tray!!! A 10mm HSS bit aligned to the bolt heads would do the trick nicely with plenty of clearance. (Drill holes conveniently marked out now with scratches ;) ) This is ideal as it also eliminates the need for the washers under the standoffs. (will have to update the guide to include this... eventually).

I vaguely recall the idea occurring to me but never thought of it again. Thanks for the reminder! I think I'll do this when I get the board back.

I had in mind opening several areas behind the MB tray for cooling/circulation and to run cables around and behind the MB but couldn't be bothered with all the drilling, sawing, dremeling etc once I'd performed several other case mods (handles, clearing fan grills, etc) I have a few hole-saw sizes too (80,92,120mm) but after trying to 'saw' a 120mm vent in the case's outside cover (Chieftec-sheet metal) I had to give up and take out the 100mm angle grinder... handed it my brother who used to be a welder and he hacked it up :eek:. Tooo rough and vicious for me ; but it worked a treat (no more latch though, unfortunately).

When I next perform surgery, I'll take pics and produce another guide :fact:

Now, what's the difference between the contact between MB, standoffs and MB tray and the contact between the HSF brackets, standoffs, bolts and MB tray?

If the contact between the bolt heads and MB tray really is an issue, then a piece(s) of insulating material (sufficient square of rubber, plastic, etc) placed between the contact points should also be adequate. Thoughts?

Well I am pretty sure the holes where the Mobo mounts to the standoffs are deliberately designed to offer some sort of earthing. If you have a look at the holes you can see some little metal dots where the screw head sits.

Everywhere I have looked pretty well says that its important that the board doesn't contact with any other bit of the case except where the standoff's should be.

I was wondering if your mobo failure may have been due to some sort of short induced by the mod.

If you have a look at where the holes for the cooler mount go you can see trace quite close to the holes, if you used a metal standoff there you might bite into the PCB enough to create another circuit to the Mobo tray.

I am not an electrical expert but I would assume this would be bad.

I have another idead for tightening down the CPU cooler, as the screws are quite long, and I bought a bag of those plasitic standoff's instead of trying to track down a wingnut which might have clearance issues just use some spare standoffs to tighten down, the length should make it far easier for finger tightening and also if it cover the whole bolt length far easier to get a tiny socket or O/E spanner in there without getting stuffed around by the angles.

I have to reseat my CPU/Cooler as I am hitting 62c in orthos at 3.2ghz pretty much as it starts and it fails less than a minute in and I am not too sure if I have done a good enough job when I fitted the cooler in the first place. I haven't O/C'd in such a long time, the last real clocking I did was the Celery 300A on the Abit BH6 combo and that was pretty much plug and play.

HWMB, noted re shorts. This was not the cause of the MB failure though. Broken cpu socket pins!!! I still don't believe this was the original cause. I can pretty much guarantee it happened when I packed the MB up for return. Stupid stupid stupid, I know, but, it was a long day and I was very frustrated, anyway, the socket protector GOES ON THE OUTSIDE!!! (as in, above the cpu retaing clip) For the life of me, I don't know why I tried to put it on the inside. Anyway, undoubtedly this is when the pins were damaged.

I do have the board back now, more dramas (unrelated) but I will soon have another guide detailing interesting (and somewhat overkill) alternatives for mounting this HSF.

I have opened a big hole behind the cpu socket. Access to the backplate, bolts etc from behind. No more removing MB to install/remount. However, mounting is performed from underneath... literally. ;)

Sorry people, please refer to: http://www.xtremesystems.org:16080/f...6&postcount=23.

I need to consolidate :)

very nice work!!!

For the sake of consolidation, please refer to this thread. Thanks.
Teaser...
http://www.gam.net.au/pcmods/images/CIMG4288.33a.jpg

Is that a Antec SX1240 Full Tower case?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by msgclb

Is that a Antec SX1240 Full Tower case?

---

Chieftec BX-01-B, but the removable drive cages, fan brackets and basic design is shared by many different manufacturers I've noticed... probably all Taiwanese though. ;)

For more shots/info on the actual case and its minor mods, check here.

Quote:

---

Chieftec BX-01-B, but the removable drive cages, fan brackets and basic design is shared by many different manufacturers I've noticed... probably all Taiwanese though.

---

The bottom section of your case is identical to my case. The section above has enough room for the power supply and a 92mm fan. The door latch is the same.

My Zaiman CNPS9500 is not living up to expections and I'm looking for a replacement. I had my doubts that any of these large coolers would fit. At least now I know that the ThermalTake Big Typhoon will fit.

In the photo above, you can just see the end of one of the horizontal brackets, above which, the PSU sits. You can also make out the extremity of the duct, which is about 25-30mm beyond the top of HSF. Note that I have replaced the TTBT stock 120mm (25mm thick) fan with a PanaFlo 120mm (38mm thick) fan, so there is a little more clearance than that if you keep the stock fan. (I'm very happy with the TTBT. It does a great job!).

GAM...that PC is filthy!, give it a clean dammit!