**Official DFI LanParty UT X48-T2R(and LT) Discussion

Well I found someone who will buy my Q9450 for $250 so I dont take too much of a loss, but I'm still not sure if the MB or CPU is the problem. Re-installing everythign again at this point would take more time than I have available and cost me more in time than reaching 4ghz is worth. (looking at a couple weeks to get everything installed and setup again),

I really hate my PC :( Wost PC I have built in years from an overclock standpoint. If I sell the CPU and board and take a $200 loss would the P5Q Delux and Q9650 be my best bet (Costing me about $500 additional IF I can sell this POS MB?). I still think its a bios issue for quads, the components look ok to me...But it is what it is and I'm not happy. I have been a DFI fan long enough, but I'm not loyal to any brand. Asus boards have always lasted for me in the past, its just that been very poor overclockers with increadable lack of features and adjustability in the bios.

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Originally Posted by Justintoxicated

Well I found someone who will buy my Q9450 for $250 so I dont take too much of a loss, but I'm still not sure if the MB or CPU is the problem. Re-installing everythign again at this point would take more time than I have available and cost me more in time than reaching 4ghz is worth. (looking at a couple weeks to get everything installed and setup again),

I really hate my PC :( Wost PC I have built in years from an overclock standpoint. If I sell the CPU and board and take a $200 loss would the P5Q Delux and Q9650 be my best bet (Costing me about $500 additional IF I can sell this POS MB?). I still think its a bios issue for quads, the components look ok to me...But it is what it is and I'm not happy. I have been a DFI fan long enough, but I'm not loyal to any brand. Asus boards have always lasted for me in the past, its just that been very poor overclockers with increadable lack of features and adjustability in the bios.

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if your buying a q 9650 this boards is good enough, 4.1-4.15 is gonna be your max 24/7 anyway you do it

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Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG

if your buying a q 9650 this boards is good enough, 4.1-4.15 is gonna be your max 24/7 anyway you do it

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Will FSB Help in games more than Ghz anyways?

The only place where I need maximum performance is for games. Photo editing n such already seems very fast @3.2 ghz stock volts. And well I can run pretty much any game already but I'm still not impressed, since I know the CPU has potential having it clocked to 3.2 ghz off stock volts, or maybe it is just some kinda funky dud. I guess I need to find time to play more, but now might be my olnly chance to sell this CPU for $250.

Also anyone know of any way to get SATA hotswap working? I have a system where an external sata drive turns on at night and my backup software runs. However I can't seem to get it to detect the external drive without restarting the computer first. It worked fine on my old AMD...

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Originally Posted by Justintoxicated

Will FSB Help in games more than Ghz anyways?

The only place where I need maximum performance is for games. Photo editing n such already seems very fast @3.2 ghz stock volts. And well I can run pretty much any game already but I'm still not impressed, since I know the CPU has potential having it clocked to 3.2 ghz off stock volts, or maybe it is just some kinda funky dud. I guess I need to find time to play more, but now might be my olnly chance to sell this CPU for $250.

Also anyone know of any way to get SATA hotswap working? I have a system where an external sata drive turns on at night and my backup software runs. However I can't seem to get it to detect the external drive without restarting the computer first. It worked fine on my old AMD...

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you can easily do 450 fsb on this board, i don't know what your issue is but i have used 3 of these boards and all of them get to 450fsb with 1.35 vtt and 1.55 vNB. its almost like clockwork. So if you get the q9650 you should be able to do this, all these volts are withing safe ranges and are nearly universally successful to oc to 450

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Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG

you can easily do 450 fsb on this board, i don't know what your issue is but i have used 3 of these boards and all of them get to 450fsb with 1.35 vtt and 1.55 vNB. its almost like clockwork. So if you get the q9650 you should be able to do this, all these volts are withing safe ranges and are nearly universally successful to oc to 450

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Ok then, im convinced sell the CPU and try another one... Iw as not able to do over 400 FSB and pass 50 iterations of burn test. Well Actualy thats not true, I was stable at 420 FSB until I put the other 4GB of ram in.

Just out of curiosity are you running 8GB of ram in any of your 3 DFI boards?

Did you have to change the GTLs manualy? I can't boot over 400 FSB without manualy manipulating the GTLs in any case... Also what bioses are you using? v602 might be my problem.
Thanks for your help.

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Originally Posted by Justintoxicated

Ok then, im convinced sell the CPU and try another one... Iw as not able to do over 400 FSB and pass 50 iterations of burn test. Well Actualy thats not true, I was stable at 420 FSB until I put the other 4GB of ram in.

Just out of curiosity are you running 8GB of ram in any of your 3 DFI boards?

Did you have to change the GTLs manualy? I can't boot over 400 FSB without manualy manipulating the GTLs in any case... Also what bioses are you using? v602 might be my problem.
Thanks for your help.

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only 4 gb (2x2gb), although I used to run 4 sticks of dominator @ 455 FSB, needed to overvolt to run stable

yeas you need to set the GTLS for 1.35v vtt earlier in the thread. I run 97,94,77 at the moment but i am going to pursue a higher vtt and higher clocks in the coming days

see this chart:
http://images.anandtech.com/reviews/...r/gtltable.jpg


602 is good ( i run 603 x38 version) I got the bios chip so I am going to try the 725 x48 bios in my x38 so I will let y'all know how that turns out

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Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG

only 4 gb (2x2gb), although I used to run 4 sticks of dominator @ 455 FSB, needed to overvolt to run stable

yeas you need to set the GTLS for 1.35v vtt earlier in the thread. I run 97,94,77 at the moment but i am going to pursue a higher vtt and higher clocks in the coming days

see this chart:
http://images.anandtech.com/reviews/...r/gtltable.jpg


602 is good ( i run 603 x38 version) I got the bios chip so I am going to try the 725 x48 bios in my x38 so I will let y'all know how that turns out

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My GTLs are set almsot the opposite, any tweeking and I'm not stable at 400 FSB...my 03/ 1/2 are much lower than the NB GTL... I think you do not have any C1 stepping CPUs this seems to be the case with them. All GTL rules are thrown out with these chips Which is likely why I can't hit the 450 FSB target and have such a hard time hitting even 400 FSB. Adjusting voltages is much easier than adjusting magic GTL's. Perhaps now that I have some working numbers I cna calculate ratios on my own. Its very timme consuming though. I still need to get pics for everyone of those SMD probes but I haven't been home for a weekend in some time now...

If anyone knows how to get the SATA hotswap (plug n play) working please let me know or my esata drive is worthless and I will have to manualy backup my system every week (yea right like that is ever going to happen!)

On another note my friend just bought a P5Q Delux and his video cards VDI (on the inside of the panel) hits some caps so he can't use the 16x slot WTF! I guess that board wont work for me either...

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Originally Posted by Justintoxicated

My GTLs are set almsot the opposite, any tweeking and I'm not stable at 400 FSB...my 03/ 1/2 are much lower than the NB GTL... I think you do not have any C1 stepping CPUs this seems to be the case with them. All GTL rules are thrown out with these chips Which is likely why I can't hit the 450 FSB target and have such a hard time hitting even 400 FSB. Adjusting voltages is much easier than adjusting magic GTL's. Perhaps now that I have some working numbers I cna calculate ratios on my own. Its very timme consuming though. I still need to get pics for everyone of those SMD probes but I haven't been home for a weekend in some time now...

If anyone knows how to get the SATA hotswap (plug n play) working please let me know or my esata drive is worthless and I will have to manualy backup my system every week (yea right like that is ever going to happen!)

On another note my friend just bought a P5Q Delux and his video cards VDI (on the inside of the panel) hits some caps so he can't use the 16x slot WTF! I guess that board wont work for me either...

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snag this quick justin, 459$ no rebates http://shop3.frys.com/product/569944...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG

Can anyone recommend a good heatsink for this if they are using the stock northbridge chipset heatsink? I want to get a better heatsink instead of the tiny stock one that comes with Intel CPUs. Although I am afraid some of the larger ones will get in the way of the NB chipset sink.

I am looking to do some overclocking but unable to water cool at this point so I am not expecting much. I have a Q9450 and hear they overclock pretty well without extreme cooling.

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Originally Posted by snipper_cr

Can anyone recommend a good heatsink for this if they are using the stock northbridge chipset heatsink? I want to get a better heatsink instead of the tiny stock one that comes with Intel CPUs. Although I am afraid some of the larger ones will get in the way of the NB chipset sink.

I am looking to do some overclocking but unable to water cool at this point so I am not expecting much. I have a Q9450 and hear they overclock pretty well without extreme cooling.

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thermalright 120 ultra extreme is as close to water on air :yepp:

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Originally Posted by zsamz_

thermalright 120 ultra extreme is as close to water on air :yepp:

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Found it here http://www.frozencpu.com/products/56...40c14s52#blank

Looks pretty good. A little pricier but the performance may be worth it. If we were to say $50 was the max, what would you recommend?

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Originally Posted by snipper_cr

Found it here http://www.frozencpu.com/products/56...40c14s52#blank

Looks pretty good. A little pricier but the performance may be worth it. If we were to say $50 was the max, what would you recommend?

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damn i bought mine for 50$ a year ago

btw its cheaper here
http://www.ncixus.com/products/23531.../THERMALRIGHT/

the new direct touch heatpipe system looks good too
http://www.ncixus.com/products/31935...1284/Xigmatek/

but to be honest after a 120 extreme nothing can compare to me
i bought a tiniq tower for cheap was a waste of money even for 20$ :rofl:
i just bought a Xigmatek 1283 i'm gonna test it out if its crap i play on moding it as a nb cooler lol

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Originally Posted by zsamz_

damn i bought mine for 50$ a year ago

btw its cheaper here
http://www.ncixus.com/products/23531.../THERMALRIGHT/

the new direct touch heatpipe system looks good too
http://www.ncixus.com/products/31935...1284/Xigmatek/

but to be honest after a 120 extreme nothing can compare to me
i bought a tiniq tower for cheap was a waste of money even for 20$ :rofl:
i just bought a Xigmatek 1283 i'm gonna test it out if its crap i play on moding it as a nb cooler lol

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Thanks for the link. Looks like the Ultra 120-Extreme is the one for me. Just to make sure, if will work on on the DFI LP X48? Wont hit the RAM or NB chipset? Im just worried its so big and might hit things

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Originally Posted by snipper_cr

Thanks for the link. Looks like the Ultra 120-Extreme is the one for me. Just to make sure, if will work on on the DFI LP X48? Wont hit the RAM or NB chipset? Im just worried its so big and might hit things

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i had to sand nb just 1mm but in most cases there enough space for a peice of paper between them

You can also fit it horizontally without any modification.

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Originally Posted by zsamz_

i had to sand nb just 1mm but in most cases there enough space for a peice of paper between them

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Hmm. I want to fit it "vertically." That is the long side parallel to the ram. That way I can pull air from the front of the case and push it right to my exhaust fans. Hope I can do that other wise Ill do it horizontally.

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Originally Posted by snipper_cr

Hmm. I want to fit it "vertically." That is the long side parallel to the ram. That way I can pull air from the front of the case and push it right to my exhaust fans. Hope I can do that other wise Ill do it horizontally.

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dont worry worse case scenario you gonna sand nb heatsink a bit

Well I tried using my GTL %'s to achieve a higher Overclock (3400 MHZ), set NB to 1.55v (measured on board) and CPU to 1.4v, Vtt to 1.32 measured (can't select 1.35 measured) tried to boot at 425FSB 3400 MHZ. Corrupted my OS, now IE won't open... Great there goes about 20 hours of installs. :(

I think I will sell this setup and try something else, but I'm not sure what cause I read Asus does not work with my Memory either but that was just a newegg review...Damn I'm really starting to hate these intel chipsets and processors...

The Q9650 deal is good (I have to pay 9% tax for living in Cali), but still too expensive for me, I could try to get a q9550 but have to take a huge loss. Starting to hate this hobby to be honest, waterblocks liquid cooling, none of it matters when your CPU and MB and Memory are overpriced POSs....

u can get the new foxconn p45
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813186153

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Originally Posted by zanzabar

u can get the new foxconn p45
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813186153

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Now that is ugly as hell lol, maybe if someone makes a waterblock for the mosfets it would work, otherwise the heatpipe kills it for me, plug the hgue clash of hideous colors.

I think I'm stuck with this setup the more I look at it. It's just an epic fail for me. I'm not brand loyal but I seriously hope AMD comes out with something soon that will get them back in buisness, maybe DFI will get off the pot.

System restore saved my OS install though so I didnt have to resort to my ghost from last month:)
GTLs for stable 3200MHZ OC with Q9450 C1 stepping and DFI LT X48 flashed to UT with 602 bios are as follows:
Measured from MB using Case as a ground: Vtt = 1.095 (1.1 default in bios)

0/3 vtt = 74 = .709v = 64.74%
1/2 vtt = 76 = .699v = 63.83%
NB vtt = 81 = .743v = 67.85%

Unless I get a new CPU it looks like I am stuck at 400FSB. Although I personaly feel it is a MB limitation with 8GB of my memmory in there. Maybe the G.Skillz memory is crap, or maybe its the board, or possibly the CPU. I don't know. My last resort will be to try a new bios 8/29 I guess. But I don't see that fixing any issues with my huge FAIL of a system.

Anyways heres the probes I bought from Frys to measure GTL's they did help to get me stable at 3200MHZ and using all stock voltages WOOOHOO!.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/P9111637.jpg
retracted
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/P9111640.jpg
extended and fully adjustable

My Question for the EE's:
When probing the motherboard for voltages is it better for the negative lead on the MultiMeter to be shoved in a ground on the molex, or grounded to the frame of the case? Acording to MB voltage readings vs bios readings/settings it is better to ground to the case, but from my experience with car audio (involving batteries) it is better to ground to the - Lead on the PSU directly (which is not possible so Molex lead would be next closest). The 2 readings greatly varry when dealing with a hundreadth of a voltfor teh GTL's a hundreadth of a volt off and the PC is unstable...

From my understanding dc Voltage runs from power to ground (although when dealing with electrons, I hear its actualy the opposite?). More importantly, when dealing with batteries, the power lead has to run back to the negative lead on the battery at some point or no current will flow. Do power supplys work the same way as a 12v battery since they are DC? Or would the CPU case work as a better ground? It may be simple enough but I got owned before on a car audio forum where I grounded my amp to the frame. According to everyone on there, alternator does not matter, its all about grounding Negative path to the Negative terminal on the battery?

so u wont get the best ddr2 board just becouse its fugly looking, and it has an avenger quantum force version coming out and im sure that wont be red

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Originally Posted by zanzabar

so u wont get the best ddr2 board just becouse its fugly looking, and it has an avenger quantum force version coming out and im sure that wont be red

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I heard the DFI was best when I purchased it, then back to asus, they all seem to have issues... But the main reason for not getting it is lack of watercoling parts for it. Unless the Asus Mosfet blocks ar at least some other aftermarket blocks fit on those mosfets... It seems it would be hard to watercool the NB. Other reasons for not getting it are. Will my G.Skill 8800 work? Perhaps I still won't be able to achieve over 400FSB due to the CPU or having 8GB ram. Where is the MB Made/ China, Taiwan?, Japan!?

had this mobo one day and I like it so far, think it might be my favorite mobo, my maximus flashed to rampage was pretty sweet though.

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Originally Posted by Justintoxicated

My Question for the EE's:
When probing the motherboard for voltages is it better for the negative lead on the MultiMeter to be shoved in a ground on the molex, or grounded to the frame of the case? Acording to MB voltage readings vs bios readings/settings it is better to ground to the case, but from my experience with car audio (involving batteries) it is better to ground to the - Lead on the PSU directly (which is not possible so Molex lead would be next closest). The 2 readings greatly varry when dealing with a hundreadth of a voltfor teh GTL's a hundreadth of a volt off and the PC is unstable...

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i'm an ME not an EE but i've always connected neg to the ground of a molex cause the voltage is coming from the psu not the case but i do know what you mean about variance between the 2 readings. i just checked the 12v line on my psu and using the molex as ground got 12.06v and using the case as ground got 12.03v

@Justintoxicated
I ran 8GB of G.SKILL RAM you mentioned with no problems at 555Mhz and 1.899v, 445FSB. Check page 90 and 91.