well it was too huge and a bit difficult to transport it xD
i'm fine with the current single tower. only need to get rid for this silver looking radiator.
gonna start tomorrow with an external enclosure for it.
Printable View
well it was too huge and a bit difficult to transport it xD
i'm fine with the current single tower. only need to get rid for this silver looking radiator.
gonna start tomorrow with an external enclosure for it.
Great work Lagier :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Lagier
Here is a sneak peek
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...INightmare.jpg
Nice, what blocks are those?
Man.. i wish i could afford EK blocks for my 3870's
zalman blocks
z man blocks? those are alum right?...:shocked:
anodized aluminum
its all good man, props for the red colour; people now adays go for blue and green. the red shows first blood, u mean business.
I got enough corrosion blocker in there to kill a horse :D
Lately it was getting pretty hot here in Holland so i decided to ad a extra 120mm rad to my setup. I am someone who has so have all the components of the PC inside the case but there is not much space left.
I modded a old Lian-Li EX-34B HDD bay for an 120mm radiator.
Here is a pic of the stock Lian Li HDD bay.
http://www.tdjdata.se/images/gtek_EX34B_1.jpg
I cut of the HDD bay itself so only the front was left. Then i mounted the 120mm rad on to it and here is the result.
http://i27.tinypic.com/e0eh3.jpg
http://i29.tinypic.com/2poawrp.jpg
http://i30.tinypic.com/2m7i4ap.jpg
And the whole thing mounted in the front of the PC.
http://i27.tinypic.com/o5xp1j.jpg
There already was an 3x120mm rad in the case so the total now is 4x120mm. I like the end result :)
@PilatuS plz change that grills on top case :)
PilatuS: temps is?
Won't do that, i like them :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Arni
About 40 idle and 50 stressed for the CPU. Keep in mind that i have my watercooling for silence and not for low temps or OC'ing. I'm running with Papst fans, all of them on 7 volts.Quote:
Originally Posted by InsaneOne
The core of the 8800 is about 40 idle also and about 47 stressed.
New LC rev :D
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/4296/p1110054uo7.jpg
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/3053/p1110066ew6.jpg
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2726/p1110067rb8.jpg
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/1940/p1110080oj7.jpg
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/3789/p1110081ro8.jpg
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/1613/p1110095ul5.jpg
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/1110/p1110107mh5.jpg
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/9595/p1110110yb5.jpg
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/4387/p1110114dq4.jpg
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8312/p1110116ky5.jpg
PilatuS don't you have a cd or dvd drive? ;)
Plastek thats one sweet build :up: Love the steel coils on the tubing, great look :clap:
Major props for this, i couldnt make that tubing run when i had my MICrores in that position, its very tight, well done :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by ANP !!!
Hehe, i did before this mod :PQuote:
Originally Posted by Garrett
I dont really use the thing anyway so it doesnt matter. I hoped it would fit with the extra rad and the DVD player but thats just not the case.
When i need it i'll just install it for a while on my desk and remove it when done with it.
What tubing and/or coolant did you use to get that red color? Looks very nice!Quote:
Originally Posted by Th3MadScientist
:eek: i just realized:shakes: your loop order, i think it could be a lot better, flow wiseQuote:
Originally Posted by ANP !!!
Tubing is regular Tygon 3/8ID and 1/2OD tubing, the coolant is PrimoChill Blood Red - entire syringe was used to color the coolant. It does stain your tubing, when I drained my loop the tubing was a see through light red, but I'm not planning on changing colors and I got about 20 feet to Tygon sitting in my closet.:shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadasius
Just added more goodness to my baby in the form of mosfet wb and blue ccfl...
looks really nice ka lok
1500W OMG!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJoe
On his cfg PSU should working passive ^^
790i pwm blocks...
http://anfi-tec.de/forenbilder/08.05.23/23.JPG
more pictures in my signature ;)
:)Quote:
Originally Posted by rafwlkp
It would be nice, but this PSU is little noisy...
Well I'm a bit new to XS so you guys will probably have some tips for me on how to improve my cooling.
Here's a few pictures.
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/4200/pc004rv3.th.jpg
http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/2726/pc001vg6.th.jpg
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/527/pc005xh4.th.jpg
http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/7315/pc006ns5.th.jpg
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/9582/pc009sd0.th.jpg
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/3191/pc012io2.th.jpg
Argh Thermaltake! My friend, in all seriousness, I recommend you upgrade to air-cooling. Thermaltake make shoddy watercooling kits.
Scrap it entirely and start over.
It's just the CPU block wich is Thermaltake.Quote:
Originally Posted by SoulsCollective
I modded a Thermaltake Tribe set, put in 2x 120mm radiators and an Eheim 1048 pum instead of the stock thing. Also added the RAM cooling.
But is it really that bad?:confused:
i dont know if its just me or are you graphic cards extremely bent???Quote:
Originally Posted by weeriemand
Checkout my Friend's Watercooled Rig from the Phillipines (junkun13 also known as Bugkalot of XS)
He's the newest addition to the world's most beautiful computer systems: MDPC
http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/sys...s-junkun13.htm
Very Good Case.Quote:
Originally Posted by ANP !!!
yay!! another person who wants watercooling over optical drives :) I connect my old sata dvdrw via esata when I need it now, which is hardly ever! Nice build :)Quote:
Originally Posted by PilatuS
Did a little upgrade to my chaos rig. Changed to pump to Laing DDC, reservoir to a tractor brake fluid tank and added the Black Ice 120mm radiator to front of case attached to Scythe Kama Bay..Yea, and GPU got AC Accelero S1 with 80mm cooler standing on screw legs under it (120mm coming soon..) :) Here's how it used to look like before:
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...e/d4ea5d75.jpg
And here's the situation now:
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...lupdate1-1.jpg
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...lupdate2-1.jpg
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...olupdate-1.jpg
Before tline and before I cleaned up the mess. Notice the stock intel cooling fan blowing right onto the northbridge. :D Also 120 mm case fan with blue LED's blowing right onto mah ramz.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...p/DSCN5920.jpg
Some more.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...p/DSCN5909.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...p/DSCN5910.jpg
From a positive point of view why do you give directly water from the pump to the waterblock?Quote:
Originally Posted by l33t p1mp
Pump also produces heat.
I think you'd better change your loop to:
Reservoir-pump-radiator-waterblock-reservoir.
Here is my system.
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/1...0075vl5.th.jpg
http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/3...0077bc5.th.jpg
Unfortunately I haven't finished it yet...
I always enjoy browsing this thread
@ MayDay84: a part from a tractor?! love it! And are those plain ol' copper plumbing elbows? :up:
Yea, I work in a tractor plant and yes they are the legendary plumb elbows:p: Did a little upgrade to my rig just now changing the rear rad before the cpu block in the loop and added some blue car engine coolant:Quote:
Originally Posted by TedShred
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...oolupdat22.jpg
Just cursing here the block 'cos it sucks!! It's Zalman WB4-Gold..It doesn't move the heat well enough to water because my cpu (3.2GHz) is idle over 50c now and the water is about 30c degrees..The cpu HS is straightened so the contact should be fine..
That is a reatarded use of elbows, you use them where there is no use for them.
Pure flow killer.
Love the install of the fan below the GFX thoug :D
Great Job.Quote:
Originally Posted by wra1th
Thanks ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ming@s
Later I'll install water blocks on MB and on graphic cards (when new ATI's 4870 will come):)
PS it's my 10th post here...
Aw, I wish someone told me that before I set up my tline. Thanks for the info though. If I ever take the loop appart again I will be sure to put it in that order. No idea why I put it that way though. I had nobody to help me so I just followed the instructions in the manual lolz.Quote:
Originally Posted by xpatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by xpatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by l33t p1mp
Quote:
Myth: The order of components has a significant impact on temps (eg, the radiator must be before the CPU).
"Watercooling Myths Exposed"
And if you are interested, there's more here:
"Common Cooling Misconceptions"
So no need or reason to change everything. :)
Sweet. Makes me feel a lot better lol. Thanks for the links, too. :p:
Yes but those round elbows aren't as bad as straight 90degree corner elbows.. But the crappy block here is my worst worry now..Quote:
Originally Posted by nullface
The full guide can be found here, of course you can find hundrends of them:Quote:
Originally Posted by coolfris
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=119699
"11) How should the water flow in my loop? Pump -> Radiator -> Chipset 1 & 2 -> GPU 1 & 2 -> Reservoir? or _________________?????
posted by Atomicpineapple: Loop order makes no difference as long as your resevoir/tline is before your pump. Overall water temp difference around a well balanced WC loop is less than 1 Deg C.
posted by MaxxxRacer: Loop order is something that almost always confused people that are new to watercooling. So here is a general rule to follow. Pump>Radiator>CPU>GPU(if implemented)>NB(if implemented)>Reservoir. This is the most efficient way of setting up your system. But there are a few exceptions to this general rule. First, is that it is generally better to have the shortest amount of tubing with the least amount of bends in it. So that means if it takes a lot of tubing or some 90 degree bends to get the loop order that I just suggested, don’t do it. Figure out a way to have it where these bends and extra tubing are not need. But there is one rule of order that you must never break. That is to have the reservoir right before the pump. If you do not follow this rule it will guaranteed hurt the performance of the system and cause the pump to be starved for water. One more thing to keep in mind is to NEVER use 90 degree bent barbs in your system. They are absolute and total flow killers. Using them will most surely hurt your performance.";)
Heres my pics with the tline and better wire management.
Notice the little temp probe on the bottom right under the hard drive. 29.1 celcius for my ram running 1000 mhz @ 4-4-4-12. Not too shabby. :D
Also, you cant really see it but I have a cathode up there. Its still very bright outside so you cant really see the blue but at night it looks wonderful.
Btw yes my case has a projector on it that projects the name of it onto my desk. Yes you can change it to whatever you want. No I havent done it yet because I dont have a lazer printer nor projector paper.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...p/DSCN6203.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...p/DSCN6204.jpg
Fan controller for the cathode and the radiator fans.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...p/DSCN6205.jpg
@xpatar: The myth is that it has no singnificant impact on the temps. So when recommending people to change their loop order it can be a reassuring also to tell it has no big impact on the temps. Few people will change their set-up for 0.19c or less.
We are looking for the most efficient setup of the loop even if the temps are lessQuote:
Originally Posted by coolfris
than 1 Celcious degrees.
"So here is a general rule to follow. Pump>Radiator>CPU>GPU(if implemented)>NB(if implemented)>Reservoir. This is the most efficient way of setting up your system."
Mine is slightly off but w/e, I am happy with my temps and my cpu speeds. Not many people hit 4 ghz on a quad.Quote:
Originally Posted by xpatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by xpatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoulsCollective
thanks guys the prize here in Greece is the same for the two blocks 55€ so i decided to go for the d-tec the loop will be something like thisQuote:
Originally Posted by peebee
tank > ehaim 1250 > triple rad > D-tec > maybe dual rad > Enzotech SNBW-SLI > Swifteck MCW30 > tank
i don't know if the dual rad would do anything better in temps so i still don't know if i'am going to use it :/
You should add a second pump. Would be better than a second rad.
the pump is looking good 1200L/h :/ i don't want to add a second pump because i am bored of getting in so much trouble :D
if i add a second pump then it is better to make a spare loop for the chipset & vga with the dual rad :/
so i might just put a triple ran and nothing more :p
anything to suggest ?
Uuh...not really im pretty nooby at this too lol.
Great sticker! Ubuntu FTW!Quote:
Originally Posted by l33t p1mp
Get some 90 Degree barb fittings for your radiator and get rid of those ridiculous loops of tubing sticking off the back.Quote:
Originally Posted by l33t p1mp
I agree, get a couple like MayDay is using, those are not as constrictive as the regular 90 degree ones you buy online.Quote:
Originally Posted by aspire.comptech
All chat and no pics. Take that crap to PM's. This is a GALLERY. If you don't know what that means look it the heck up. Idiots continue to ruin this thread.
I think we can share our recommendations :up: :hm:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Prodigy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Prodigy
If you don't like it then don't read them. It angers you so much that you have to scroll past posts? LOL
What do you think you're gonna change? The thread has been this way for over 4 years and a hundred + pages.. :ROTF:
On another note, I don't usually like bling lights but those cool blue you have 'leet pimp' look nice.
Thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by taylormsj
I was unable to find a better place for that.
You can insert the tubing first then mount the Res, that's what I did and it was a piece of cake.
Yea, earlier I got the pump wrong, I changed the loops order to this nowQuote:
Originally Posted by taylormsj
Res > pump > Rad > CPU > NB > GPU > Res
the flow is really good, just as fast as my previous CPU + GPU loop, since I gave much attention to any possible kinks.
Thanks you :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ming@s
The case is not completed yet, I have mounted green LEDs behind the fuzion mounting plate to give it a back-lit effect, still working on it.
This was written by Cathar, liquid cooling expert and manufacturer of the G4 and G5 waterblocks (and designer of Swiftech's new 'Storm G4' flagship CPU blockQuote:
Originally Posted by Vatos_locos
"HOW MUCH PUMP IS ENOUGH? HOW MUCH PUMP IS TOO MUCH?
Broad guidelines on pump selection:
* DO NOT select a pump that draws more than 50W of power. Performance will not improve further and the pump will be drawing more power than is needed, effectively being a waste of electricity which just shows up on your power bill. Pumps drawing much more power than 50W will actually make your CPU hotter.
* In general avoid pumps that put more than 16W of heat into the water per 120x120mm of radiator area (or equivalent). Match your pump to your available radiator capacity so that pump heat is not a major player in your water's temperature. In general, try to keep pump heat to radiator capacity down below 12W of pump heat per 120x120mm of radiator area.
* Try to choose a separated armature pump (spinning magnet around the impeller) as opposed to a canned motor (eg. Laing style), or electro-magnet motor (eg. Eheim style) as the separated armature design minimises motor heat transferral into the water
* Avoid pumps with less than 1.0mH2O of pumping pressure at 3.5LPM flow rate (or 3' of pressure @ 1gpm), unless you have a very specific need for some particular pump (space requirements). Such pumps are too weak and performance will suffer noticably.
* Try to avoid "high flow" pumps (pumps with >20LPM peak flow rates). Such pumps tend to have the wrong impeller design and flow characteristics for water-cooling use.
* Choose pumps with at least 6LPM of peak flow rate
* Choose pumps with at least 1.5mH2O (5') of peak pressure
* When trying to decide between two pumps where one pump has more peak flow than another pump, then so long as the rated peak flow rates are at or above 10LPM, always choose the pump that has the higher peak pressure rating, over the pump that has the higher peak flow rating. If the peak pressures are about equal, but both offer peak flow rates above 10LPM, choose the pump with the lower peak flow rate as it will add less heat to your system."
The full link can be found here:
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=10825
:off:
less talk more pics please :rolleyes:
hear hear
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o...l/SSL24282.jpg
:D already posted, but thought I couldn't agree with Logan and not post a pic :p:
hard to find a computer that looks good dispite having the standard orange PCB.
nice setup. :)
Here is my case. My proud :)
Later this week I can post more pics if wanted.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...88/IMG_001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...88/IMG_002.jpg
With red light
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...88/IMG_003.jpg
With UV light
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...88/IMG_004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...88/IMG_005.jpg
And a few pics from my CPU-waterblock
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6497Custom.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...6556Custom.jpg
one of the best rig's in cosmos :)Quote:
Originally Posted by shaquilleMoreno
Cool..Your coolant looks like some kind of strawberry milk in the UV, very delicious:D I'm jealous to you who have so much space behind the right side of the case to hide the cables.. Although my case (3R System R900) is very spacious, the behind side is too narrow to put large cable bunches there..:mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by shaquilleMoreno
cheers man :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MrWizard6600
I been looking for a black pcb but I quite like the orange now
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...P1010013-2.jpg
Still need to built the rad box to go on top :)
Helfarch nice cfg. Tell me what rad is it? Place of fittings is interesting :)
i should bill XS for the water rig i now want thanks to all of you!!! :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lagier
the inside of the case, does it come that shiny ? or did you do something to brighten up the bare metal?
XSPC R-120 T on top and a R-120 S in the 5 1/4 bay :)Quote:
Originally Posted by rafwlkp
http://www.xspc.biz/r120.php
It's a nice window in your case. What for a case?Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
Are you asking what case it is ? its the antec 900
a few updates and better wire tuck
http://i31.tinypic.com/jj3dpe.jpg
wtb better camera
Yes, thank you:)Quote:
Originally Posted by taylormsj
cheers mateQuote:
Originally Posted by icrunk
kalok what case is that? does it come with the window and mesh as standard?
is your entire loop going through a single radiator???Quote:
Originally Posted by imapwnu
:/ I hope not previous posts will have the answer!
edit: found the posts but pics are no longer hosted.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shaquilleMoreno
Very nice, tell me did you use a standard Cooler Master 4-in-3 Device Module for the second enclosure for the front?
Also that Zalman ZM-MFC1 Plus Fan controller looks great, all your components looks uniform and is so easy on the eyes. Thanks for the ideas. :)
Lol I think he posted the same rig before, and someone asked the exact same thing. I think he has a 360 rad up front or something IIRC.Quote:
Originally Posted by benniebeeker
And Xavior, that looks really good! The reservoir and coolant give off that mad-scientist brew vibe =D
It's a silverstone TJ-07.Quote:
Originally Posted by CBird28
it can either come with a window or without the window but the mesh is standard on both.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811163067
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811163060
More and better pics my bulid WC
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/881/dsc03339oa7.jpg
http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/6683/dsc03306if7.jpg
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/2576/dsc03313ax8.jpg
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/6364/dsc03326uw3.jpg
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/568/dsc03324gt2.jpg
http://img363.imageshack.us/img363/4328/dsc03327kd3.jpg
http://img363.imageshack.us/img363/4145/dsc03329tj8.jpg
http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/8067/dsc03330le5.jpg
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/3826/dsc03331vc3.jpg
http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/4166/dsc03333ze5.jpg
http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/2228/dsc03334yk3.jpg
http://img65.imageshack.us/img65/5301/dsc03335ux2.jpg
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/3316/dsc03336an4.jpg
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/560/dsc03338kk4.jpg
Yep, its a Silverstone tj07 and it come with the window and mesh.Quote:
Originally Posted by CBird28
Brilliant case for watercooling!
blue with the metallic coils looks :banana::banana::banana::banana:in saaweeeeet.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Plastek
Yeah, that looks awesome I must say!
Plastek...what dye / coolant in your loop there?
It's probably Feser UV BlueQuote:
Plastek...what dye / coolant in your loop there?
Feser dyes are really very good :) a few drops will be sufficient for the whole loop, and a 50ml bottle will last you for about 7 - 10 loops.
I gotta get that Metallic coil :D
Hi all :p::p::p:
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/7...1037ry9.th.jpg
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/4...7870kl4.th.jpg
http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/8...4826wb6.th.jpg
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/5...3381yb8.th.jpg
http://img373.imageshack.us/img373/4...3260dx6.th.jpg
http://img60.imageshack.us/img60/152...7333vw9.th.jpg