For all who think they need it :-
http://www.itsjohnnybravo.com/Overcl...tos/vdroop.jpg
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For all who think they need it :-
http://www.itsjohnnybravo.com/Overcl...tos/vdroop.jpg
i got it to 3.4 on airQuote:
Originally Posted by 226
the PWM is getting close to 80degrees under full load so im scared to go any further until i can find a way to cool it
btw, can someone tell me what IS pwm anways...
So you just solder 1K Ohm resister to those to points?Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Bravo
I've never done a board mod before; sorry if it's a n00b-question. ;)
Anyone attempted the vDroop mod using a pencil ? ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by AstroCreep
yep just sold the middle leg and one of the outer legs of the variable resistor to each of those points making sure that the resistance between the two legs is 1Kohm before hand.Quote:
Originally Posted by JPxM0Dz
As for pencil mods I'm no fan of them due to them being really unstable and inaccurate - this is a low resistance mod is its best to do it right!
I believe it stands for Pulse Width Modulation....Quote:
Originally Posted by fatal_error
Thats correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly_Boy
A quote from Michael Hyatt
"Pulse-width modulation of a signal or power source involves the modulation of its duty cycle, to either convey information over a communications channel or control the amount of power sent to a load.
The temps vary according to the amount of power being used and/or how well they are cooled. (none of mine are above 40*C, but they are extremely well cooled) 50~60*C is safe; 60~75*C is warm and acceptable to some; anything above that, and I think they are too hot and you had better consider improving your (case) cooling.":up:
thanks for posting that mod.
at least i have an idea now.
anyone hear of news on upcoming bios releases btw? I have b04 right now. Im hoping they includ a vdroop regulation option like in the p5k.
i had a p5kdlx, but returned it. board was not stable with my rams, i did like that feature though
ooh thanks a lot. If i want to improve my cooling for them... where are they located exactly?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Bones
Under the top left heatpipe heatsink on this boardQuote:
Originally Posted by fatal_error
I'm new to Intel OC'ing, could someone explain to me what some of these voltages do?
CPU VTT 1.2V
MCH 1.25V
ICH 1.05V
ICHIO 1.5V
DDR2 Reference Voltage
CPU GTLREF 0-3?
Thanks!
Wish I had the skills and know-how for that mod.
Just had a look inside the case, and that area you've posted is minuscule.
Can I take it that the resistor would be something like this
http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/Full/uh23a.jpg
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?...&doy=27m7#spec
Any photos of the finished mod? Maybe able to take it in and get it done by someone who does know how.
Is that something that could be done just in a bios mod?Quote:
anyone hear of news on upcoming bios releases btw? I have b04 right now. Im hoping they includ a vdroop regulation option like in the p5k.
RLM
This is a non expert response:)Quote:
CPU VTT 1.2V
MCH 1.25V
ICH 1.05V
ICHIO 1.5V
DDR2 Reference Voltage
CPU GTLREF 0-3?
VTT and MCH seems to be the most significant.
Upping VTT a bit with my quadcore has increased stability a bit, or should I say given me a few extra minutes before prime failure.
MCH You up when going for higher FSBs(I think I'm right in saying that). Also of note the higher the MCH value the more volt options in the VTT, so I presume the increases should go hand in hand.
ICH I leave as is
ICHIO Same really. Maybe just a nudge up
CPU GTLREF
Read this
http://sg.vr-zone.com/?i=4409&s=7
In theory these settings should have a significant effect on the FSB you can reach. It's a percentage of the VTT. A quadcore requires a different percentage for instance to a dualcore. The aim is to find the sweet spot with this setting(As the article says)
In practice it doesn't seem to be too effective on this board, so around default is the way to go.
As I say, non expert advice. Expert advice hopefully to follow:)
RLM
Hey johny thanks a bunch for the vdroop mod, now quick question does this decrease the drrop from what you set in bios to what you get in windows or does this help control the droop caused by placing the cpu under load.
thanks
Your advice is appreciated, as for your vmod, the pentiometer you listed will work fine, I get my supplies at my local radioshack
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family
I'll be getting one of those soon enough ;)
As for an update on my E6750, priming at 3.4GHz with stock volts :up:
Really need help with this Pro mobo. Can´t get past 480fsb nomather what voltage i set. Using the B04 bios and a E6850 G0.
Have active fans to pwm and mosfets. This mobo should do over 500 fsb what i´ve seen. And caan someone explain what the CPU GLTREF 1-4 do for fsb. What % should i choose ?
Very nice:up:Quote:
As for an update on my E6750, priming at 3.4GHz with stock volts
A few posts up, I've linked to an article which touches on GTLREFs and what they are about.Quote:
Really need help with this Pro mobo. Canīt get past 480fsb nomather what voltage i set. Using the B04 bios and a E6850 G0.
Have active fans to pwm and mosfets. This mobo should do over 500 fsb what iīve seen. And caan someone explain what the CPU GLTREF 1-4 do for fsb. What % should i choose ?
This page shows the use of them in practice with a DFI board
http://sg.vr-zone.com/?i=4409&s=17
However as stated they don't seem to be amazingly effective on this board.
RLM
Didn't find those. A bit more like it:)Quote:
Read these to get a good idea or atleast get started
Link1
Link2
VTT - the CPU->NB interconnect voltageQuote:
Originally Posted by MikalCarbine
MCH - Northbridge, you may need to up this a couple notches
ICH - soutbridge leave at stock (southbridge controls disks and other IO)
ICHIO - southbridge related as well, leave
DDR2 Ref - ??
CPU GTLREF- don't know how to explain in a concise way, here's a link http://www.thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=87
Thanks for clearing that up you guys, any info on the DDR2 Ref. Voltage?
Had to up my vcore and MCH a little to hit 3.52 stable (not sure which was the culprit), with vdroop my vcore is still under stock :eek: :D
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/1205/352ghzft0.jpg
For goodness' sake, don't try a mobo volt mod without a lot of practice. Here are some tips. 3 sec too long with the tip too close to the board, and pow, you may have a new door stop.
I use Vista x64 and IE works both 32bit and 64bit...I just never installed a killernic (i.e. waste of cash nic). So perhaps that had something to do with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn1998
Anyhow just use Firefox instead :D
Hi,
I am about to pull the trigger on this build. I wanted to post it for a sanity check and make sure I am not overkill on the memory...and that the Tuniq will fit the board ok without any modification. Hoping for a decent overclock, but nothing crazy.
ABIT IP35 Pro LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
Intel Core 2 Duo E6850 Conroe 3.0GHz LGA 775 Processor Model BX80557E6850 - Retail
Tuniq Tower 120 P4 & K8 CPU Cooler - Retail
Crucial Ballistix 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model BL2KIT12864AA1065 - Retail
Thanks!
scaryogre
The memory is fine, I have that kit but have not tested it much, but from what I can gather it does 800/1000 speeds with ~1.8v
The build looks good overall :up:
Could someone recommend safe voltages for the options in BIOS? (mch, even vcore, etc)
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikalCarbine
Thanks! :) The memory spec calls for 2.2v. Would one still set it to 1.8v or should I run it at rated speed (i.e. 2.2v)?
Any pros/cons either way?
Again, thanks!!!
-scaryogre
Looks good dude, I have 4x1gb of that memory and it runs at 2.18v at 500mhz 4-4-4-12 or up to 550mhz or higher 5-5-5-15 with that same voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by scaryogre
With 2x1gb sticks it will do 600mhz 5-5-5 with the same voltage no problem.
Remember that this board over volts the ram a hair but its not to much and it only does it under full or heavy loads.
hi
i need some advice
i am currently running an E6850 at 8*500 the problem is with my memory i can't get it to run at 1200
i know it can because i was running it on my ASUS P5N32-E at 1212 i was using 2.150 volts on the ASUS i have tried every voltage combination i could think of but the best i can run it is 1000 on the IP35 Pro any suggestions
it also ran 1200+ on the Gigabyt P35C-DS3R, i returned and purchased the ABIT
the memory is G.Skill 6400 with D9 chips
all componets are the same except the mobo
Hey all been following this thread for a while. Just got in my egg orders today. Got one of these boards with a P180B. Install went together amazingly. Seems like that case was made for this board with the cable management. I'm waiting on my q6600 from Ncix, praying that it is a g0, but I have seem some pretty high oc's with b3, so either way its ok.
I also ordered some pc6400 gskill, the cas 4 ones with black heatspreaders & a tuniq tower. Hoping I can push to 3.5ghz and then be done. I also got an evga 8600 :rolleyes:, but i dont need a gaming machine, I have a 360 for that, i just need a workhorse to do file conversions and stuff. Hoping to join you all soon in the OCing world.
I also noticed that upper heatsink behind the I/O ports is really wobbly. Gonna get some screws for that soon. You all recommend some AS ceramique for those?
if you mean you are trying to run 8*500 / 5:6 DDR1200 then you have to keep in mind that the PL will be set to 7 because of the 5:6 divider. you are likely going to need 1.48v for the MCH if not a bit higher for 500FSB PL7. start at 1.48v and work your way up if it isn't stable.Quote:
Originally Posted by neonflx
if of course your vMCH is already that high then perhaps it is a timing issue with the memory. more details will be needed to help out if thats the case. HTH
Using 8500 Tracers @ 2.175V set in bios now @ 600MHz :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by scaryogre
http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/6...b600ddrfr3.jpg
Heres 4x1gb of tracers 8500 running 1T with some low volts.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/2...t25401tlm5.jpg
:clap: :clap: :clap: looks like I'll have to try 1T now :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by MADMAX22
quick question about the CMOS reset switch, do you just have to switch it up then down? i tryed it and it didnt work
first of all lol at your picQuote:
Originally Posted by OpTioN
second, yes, all you have to do is switch it up then down (or down then up whichever way it is).
when you look at the bugging LED it should go to CC i believe when you move the switch
I usually shut off/unplug my PSU then go ahead and flip the switch to clear for ~10 seconds, flip it back and boot back up
I'm not sure if anyone saw this, but what is the safe voltage for MCH and GTL?
Hate to sound noob, but what does 1T mean? If this is answered in stickies somewhere, just point me in that direction. Lastly, are you setting the volts in Abit EQ? Just curious as that board is on the way for me. . .and I have the tracers as well. . .Quote:
Originally Posted by MADMAX22
1T and 2T refer to the command rate (mem setting)
you need to be sure you have the beta bios installed to get access to these.
Please, can someone post their voltage for vcore,mch etc for +500 fsb :)
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/2870/36tf9.jpg
woot, just added 2 fans on the mobo, but the pwm is still a bit hot under load...
for one, i can tell you that the "PWM" sensor is adjacent to the CPU, on the outer edge side of the board (top end as board stands vertically)...i have two 80mm fans tied together on that side with one blowing under the TR Ultra Xtreme to lower my PWM temp some more.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikalCarbine
i would bet the system temp sensor is adject to the NB...so...if the system temp dropped, i would think it means that your mod is taking heat away from the NB chipset and distributing it into the heatpipe system....so...no residual heat remainning around to increase the system temp....i think that is a good thing.:)
this a new high for my B3 Q6600...vcore is a bit high but i don't plan keeping if for 3 years!:p:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/3...n500fsbcw2.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Turbodream
I couldn't get X-FI working at all and I kept reinstalling the latest drivers from Creative with no effect.. then I used Windows update and it installed the X-FI drivers and bingo it works perfectly.. which is weird because it should be the same drivers :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by OpTioN
Thanks for that, do i need to change GLTref to something other then 67% ?Quote:
Originally Posted by MADMAX22
460fsb is what i manage to best right now, seems a bit low and gaining nothing with voltage set to max.
I have a problem... :(
I've bought this IP35 Pro from Dinos22 which he was able to do 500FSB.
But with my Q6600, I cannot get it over 385FSB 1:1 (My ram is DDR2-800)
(I've permanently set my RAM timings to 5-5-5-16 in BIOS also)
I can get it running at 9 x 266 FSB and 400 RAM = 2.40ghz
I can get it running at 9 x 370 FSB and 370 RAM = 3.33ghz
But I cannot get it running even at 8 x 385 and 385 RAM = 3.08ghz.
It will not boot up Windows. It'll reboot half way through booting up.
My CPU is rock stable at 1.285 volts in BIOS @ 3ghz (335 x 9)
Every other voltages are at default settings in BIOS.
I've tried raising MCH (1.48v) and ICH voltages.
I've tried raising all of them by a few notches. Still, it's the same.
Any ideas??? :confused:
Is this my CPU's FSB hole?
More like your cpu limit
What do you mean?Quote:
Originally Posted by situman
I can boot up fine at 3.33ghz (370 x 9)
I cannot boot up even at 2.80ghz (400 x 7)
Will newer BIOS help? I'm using what it came with out of the box atm.
I run my gtl ref at 70%, it seemed to help some but anything higher hindered ocing. I know some cpu's are different as far as fsb walls, mine is 540 which was the same I got on the dfi dark. There is nothing I can do to get above that. I am not sure what it would be on air or water.
You all gotta experiment with your settings to find out what works best or what can get you over a wall and usually maxing voltages doesnt help and infact can hinder ocing attempts.
I have tried setting both GTL to 70%. (Have no idea what it does but)Quote:
Originally Posted by MADMAX22
Still I cannot get it to boot at 385 FSB. =(
I'm using Tuniq Tower 120 and my temps are good. (Under 45c at load)
i have found that GLTref adjustments don't help a whole lot except to squeeze the last little bit of FSB out of a CPU...leaving them both at 67% is generaly all you need, but like MadMax said, every CPU is different.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbodream
you are likely being limited by the CPU FSB wall and your limit has nothing to do with motherboard. the only way to break past a FSB wall is sub-zero cooling on the CPU. the other thing to try is running 1:1, that way you are running the 1333 strap with PL8. if your still stuck at 460FSB at 1:1, then you have hit your CPUs wall in all likelihood. HTH
i found that raising GTL reference above 71% will send it flying out of windows when overclocked at a high FSB for my Q6600
How is this driver mentioned below should be used and what does it actually do? Can you just copy it to a CD or alternatively to a USB stick or...? Iīm about to join Intelīs world near weeks after been almost 2 years with the amd, When I will recieve all the parts needed within one week or so... My setup includes: Abit IP35 Pro combined with Q6600 @ Crucial Ballistix Tracer PC2-8500 @ 8800 GTS 320Mb juiced by Thermaltakeīs Big Water 745 watercooling system with a bit more effective waterpump than the retail package contains. :surf:
JMicron Installation Disk V1.03 for 2000/XP/2003/64bit - 27th June 07 ??????????
I will post again and send my results with some pictures added as soon as I get something reasonable to tell about. My goal is anyhow trying to reach the 4GHz barrier or get as close as possible.
Stepping will be G0 and ofcourse I expect to see some nice results with this setup. Wish me the best! :toast:
Help me guys!! Can you explain how flash the b4 beta bios with floppy? Step by step, I'm newbie...;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;) ;)
What settings should I change to get to 3.6ghz? At 3450 now
im at
381 FSB
1.5 Volts
1.37MCH
2.2 DDR
PCI E 105
4-4-4-12
most stuff disabled
Freezes at 3.5 :(
Temps are fine
Okey thanks for the tip about gltref. But with the fsb wall, i guy at techsweden has the same stepping and week and he can do 530+ fsb.Quote:
Originally Posted by 3oh6
Yesterday a got up till nearly 480 fsb after i flashed to b03 bios. And i always run 1:1 and leaves all memsettings to auto. Maybe the temp is stopping me ?
I just picked up an IP35-pro + 6850 CPU combo, and I just can't get this thing to go over FSB 410 no matter what I do, so don't feel bad about your rig:-) I even flashed the beta b04 BIOS, it didn't help. Maybe the CPU is a dud, I don't know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbodream
I have never seen anything like this before, strange board indeed.
@hippopotamus : like this ................
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=222273
http://img.techpowerup.org/070729/SPI E6850887.jpg
I hope a new bios coming soon..
thats the beauty of the FSB wall...date code means jack from what i have seen. the FSB wall is on a chip to chip basis and has nothing to do with production week in my experience.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbodream
for instance, a local shop had 3 E6600s quite a while back, L629B383...naturally i grabbed all three of them. the best one, the one i still have, FSB walls at 550~560. the worst of the 3 walled at 490ish and the middle of the pack walled at 515ish (all on air). same pack date, production week...luck of the draw. the weeks can usually give you a ball park of overclockability but not FSB wall.
again, simply based on the one instance where i was able to buy 3 identical chips. others may have different experience.
Yep, agreed, my E6600 week 28A fsb wall at 540 fsb. Thats on phase.
You might not be able to go much higher, unfortunately. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by OpTioN
Have you tried to drop your multiplier to 8 and see how high your FSB can go then? If not, try it; see if that allows you to go any higher.
Also, how are your temps?
On that one german site there's this negative point about the IP35-Pro and I have no idea what they mean by that,
- dual Gigabit LAN Controller "RTL8110SC" leider nur über PCI angeschlossen!
which translates to,
- dual Gigabit LAN Controller "RTL8110SC" sadly only connected via PCI!
WTF does this mean, why is this considered negative, do they mean its not an integrated NIC, do you need to insert a card in your PCI slot to have gigabit ethernet???
What they mean (which has been discussed at length over on the Abit USA forums) is that the onboard NIC is on the pci bus. It is not on a 1x pci-express lane as most of the better motherboards NIC's are nowadays. Does it really affect real-world performance? That's debatable, but most likely not.
It's a negative because the pci bus is shared with all pci devices (ie sound cards) and uses a few more cpu cycles, where as pci-express uses less cpu and is not shared with anything else.
Shawn
Aaah so it might just steal a bit of CPU usage same way RAID takes a bit of CPU utilization when moving files across your raid volumes. So now every time you'r downloading files from internet it will put stress on the CPU instead of just on the southbridge(or whatever chip normally controls the onboard NIC).
Thnx for elaborating on that. If its really a negligable amount then who gives a bleep:)
From what I've read, it is only noticable in benchmarks. Real world, you'll never notice it. I can tell you that I used the onboard for about a week, then switched over to an Intel Pro 1000PT pci-e 1x network card and really can't tell the difference.
Shawn
59c 3 hours of OrthosQuote:
Originally Posted by AstroCreep
At 3479 right now, What should my ram stuff be at? It's at 4-4-4-12 and 2t i belive
Everything else is Auto
nothing wrong with the "B04" beta bios...works very good on my pro board and my Q6600.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbodream
Okay, so I know most of you are going for the highest clocks possible, this is called xtremesystems after all, but I would like to know what you would consider safe overclocking for this board. I have a Q6600 processor, and I want to overclock it as much as possible, but I also need to have this rig last for about 4 years. What would you consider the highest settings that will allow it to last that long? Please include FSB and voltages in your response. :D
Go 9 x 333 for 3GHz at lowest voltage it will allow for stabilityQuote:
Originally Posted by icantdothatdave
The only thing that suffers is actual nic thruput though unless you have better than 100Mb/s lan then it makes very little differenceQuote:
Originally Posted by shawn1998
Used CPU cycles are actually less on these PCI nics compared to the better thruput PCI-e nics :)
I'm new to OC'ing and when I build my system in a few days I would like to OC a G0 Q6600 to 3.0-3.2 which I guess would be 9x356. What voltages should I try to get to there?
Whatever it takes to get there, just keep an eye on the temps. Some chips might get there on stock volts, others might need 1.5v or more. Personally I like to stick to the 10% rule with vcore which puts it at 1.45v for a B3 Q6600.
The proper way to go about this is to OC the FSB in small steps and test for stability each time. Only bump the vcore or other voltages when needed. You stop overclocking when:
-you reach your desired speed
or
-vcore is at the max safe limit (1.45)
or
-temps are at the max safe limit. (under 70c fully loaded)
What is "safe" is highly debateable but that's my opinion on it.
well the ip35 runs at 333mhz stock. leave MCH, ICH, etc alone..no need to change them in that condition. in fact you really dont have to change them till past 400fsb..Quote:
Originally Posted by 226
333x9=3ghz on 6600, all the G0's should have no problem with stock or slightly higher vcore(voltag) on the cpu.
3.2ghz you could just ramp up the FSB a little bit say 360mhz. still leaving board volts alone. and will hit 3.24 ghz..with some adjust to cpu. now that depends, if you got a golden chip like a few people here, you can do almost 3.4 without much change in vcore.
mine needs about 1.48 set in bios to do that..not very good at all.
this is just basic info, every setup is a bit diffrent, powersupply is important with overclocking, and picking good ram
So the best bios out now is beta04 ?
Here's why I did not opt for a new Asus board this time and I was very close this time,
http://i16.tinypic.com/6hgyp6q.jpg
Check out the date I posted my question, well Asus you can suck my hairy balls and choke on them, thnx for the urgent reply and putting my question as first priority:LOL: Ooooh yeah you really touched my heart there, but I can't help but feel like you are touching my balls.
I can boot windows at 3.33ghz (370 x 9) with 1.295v in bios.
But to boot windows at 3.20ghz (400 x 8), I need at least 1.385v in bios. =P
Hopefully, this will change with better PSU I'll get maybe this week. =)
:ROTF: :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Cappie
Agree!Quote:
Originally Posted by gundersausage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbodream
YES!...don't forget to flash your boot block!
Is there also such a thing as,
PCI Clock Synchronization Mode 33.33Mhz
PCI Express Frequency 100
on this ABIT board that prevents your PCI busses from overclocking, cuz I don't wanna end up with a fried harddisk and GPU when overclocking this board. Am getting one this week paired with a E4300, so can someone tell me this plz.
Thnx
every board that I can remember has this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cappie
Anyone have any experience with the audio on the IP35 Pro vs an XFI? I will be using Vista x64 on this board tomorrow and want to decide if I should use my XFI or not. Any comments here? How is the onboard audio with this mobo?
I know Creative has crappy support and drivers, but please give me quality info etc if you can.
Thanks
Hi,
Just a question: can I flash my board with winflash under windows?
I've tried with an usb disk and the board recognized it as C: and I can't use a floppy. I can't copy awflash and the BIN folder on the MS DOS floppy.
Onboard sound will be crap compared to X-FI but thats the case with any board
I used the Uguru FlashMenu to upgrade the bios no problem
I would not use windows...I've had 2 or 3 boards corrupt the BIOS and become unusable this way.Quote:
Originally Posted by HiS
Get yourself a small USB Flash Drive. Just a 512MB one will work (I got one on sale for like $5). Then at the first page of this thread is a link that will help you format the flash drive as fat or fat32 DOS boot disk. You can then pick the flash drive as the startup device and it will boot into DOS mode. Then you can use awdflash to do the flash.
Yeah, but sometimes XFI cards and drivers tend to have issues. Especially since under vista there is no EAX benefits without the software patch that creative provides. Which to be honest...doesn't seem that necessary.Quote:
Originally Posted by gundersausage
Anyway thanks for your opinion, I am still seeking reports on the quality etc of the onboard audio.
My understanding is that most of the newer HD-codecs are pretty decent unless you're planning on gaming. Their EAX implementation is crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dredd
I am heavily gamer oriented so you're saying XFI is the only way to go?Quote:
Originally Posted by AstroCreep
Pretty much, yeah. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Dredd
Might also want to look into that new XFi-based card that's made by another company (I don't rememeber who though).
Creative is licensing the Xfi chip to other MFGs, like nVidia & ATi do for their GPUs.
Auzentech Prelude 7.1Quote:
Originally Posted by AstroCreep
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/audio...elude-pic.html
ASUS Xonar D2
http://www.vr-zone.com/index.php?i=5109
Has anyone ran an e6400 on this board ??:shrug:
What option under awdflash ensures this?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I seem to have a problem around ~520FSB, when I set it that fsb even with a low multiplier upon saving my settings my board hangs on the C1 diagnostic display. I looked it up in the manual and it refers to the memory or the L2 cache of the cpu. The memory is below stock, and the CPU is only at 3Ghz. Is this the dreaded FSB wall I ph33r? I've tried upping vtt slightly and playing with GTL but the board still hangs. Does anyone experience this?
the "WB" switch is the one that flashes the Boot Block...Quote:
Originally Posted by MikalCarbine
your problem could be not high enough vcore, MCH, ICHIO 1.5, ICH 1.05 and Vdimm...vcore is the most important element...
what kind of cpu cooler are you using?
I have a Storm R2, I've been debating on lapping my C2D for some better temps. I have never gone over 55C load with over 1.55v at 3.9Ghz with this CPU
My Vcore was at 1.49 while my CPU was at 3Ghz, which it can easily do under stock. I can hit 500Mhz with 1.41v on MCH and I tried up to 1.5ish with no help. My memory is underclocked with 2.0vdimm
One thing I could try pushing a little more is ICHIO and ICH
I will tomorrow but it's an early week...only 3.4Ghz stable at 1.4v (actual).Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Bones
so...not gonna see anything amazing from me posting here.
This will solve your problem, its easiest and best way to flash, your USB key will essentially become a floppy:)Quote:
Originally Posted by HiS
'k here we go, first plug in your USB stick(make sure to backup any DATA still on the stick cuz this process will clear it completely). When thats done download this nifty tool,
BootDisk2BootStick
.NET framework is needed to run this tool, get that from here,
Microsoft .NET Framework Version 2.0
Then download this boot image,
MIRROR 1
MIRROR 2
MIRROR 3
Then all that remains is to run the bootstick tool,
http://i10.tinypic.com/4mrimxc.jpg
go to the "Write to USBStick/Flash" tab, make sure it says "Floppy Disk-Image" as shown above, normally your USBStick's driveletter should already be selected, for me its drive G:\ which happens to be my last drive.
Then just click the START button and a screen will pop up asking you for a Bin-image(*.bin)file, so just browse to my downloaded one,
http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/3...ctflashqu7.jpg
A warning will pop up notifying you that all data on that target drive will be lost, just click OK and you'll have a ready-for-booting USB stick(make sure ofcourse to change bootorder in bios, to boot from removable drive).
Let me know if it works for you.
PS : I assume most people will burn the biosfile and the biosflashtool on a cdrom which you can then access from DOS. When you do that, I suggest copying the flashtool and biosfile to RAMDRIVE before actually flashing bios. This will rule out any cd-hickups during flashing. When using my bootimage I believe ramdrive is Q:\ and cdrom is R:\, so supposing you burned following files to cdrom,
P5BD0711.ROM ----->> ASUS BIOSFILE(or other brand biosfile)
AFUDOS.exe ----->>> ASUS FLASHTOOL(or whatever other flashtool you need)
then all you type behind command prompt is,
copy R:\*.* Q:\
and files needed for flashing will be on ramdisk, then just traverse to RAMDISK by typing,
Q:\
and flash your bios from there.
You can never be too secure whilst flashing!!!
Note : When booting up from this stick you'll see a selection menu, take "Boot without emm386" here, cuz flashing with emm386 running in background is mucho bad!! Keep in mind, this method will not work if your motherboard does not detect USB devices at bootup.
Mines an early week also.......Im curious to see how it does.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dredd
when will these become available?Quote:
Originally Posted by vailr
I'll post what I get...I'm not hopeful because I tried up to 1.55v and only got to 3.4Ghz any more and no windows boot. It's just not a very good overclocking CPU by comparison of others available.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Bones
I'm shooting for 425Mhz FSB, 3.4Ghz CPU, DDR2-850 4-4-4-12 1T which I should be able to do easily.
Upping ICHIO and ICH voltages didn't seem to help