Hmm, I'd love to get me a good roach stompin. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
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Hmm, I'd love to get me a good roach stompin. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Yeha, I am having a hard time visualizing what your describing also...The T3 comes with compression fittings and I use them on mine with no issue so at least in a normal configuration they fit. If you post some images of your install we can have a look.Quote:
Originally Posted by genec57
Like I said...^^^ a gentleman with some class. I did take most of your comments to task as well. We have investigated the side notch and modifying the molds and it is just to extensive a change, would cost less to start over so for now it will just be sans the notch. I AM adding several cases to my testing collection though to prevent these kinds of things in the future...and keeping them in a stock configuration (not tossing the ez mount rails etc)Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmiester
It seems you and I are the only fans of a true yellow lol. I will see what I can do.Quote:
Originally Posted by surfhick
We talked about drunken campfire (DB is on a camping trip somewhere in the wilds of Oregon) posts from your iphone DB remember? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
Coolmeister the sad thing is those fewls at realpinkpanty forums think you back up their blind hatefest. I had many people telling me I was just soiling myself by posting over there. All it takes is a quick google search and our names are found on that den of loser forum regardless if we engaged in their random and not so random acts af gheytardness or not.
Well their names are over here as well that they cannot erase. So it's kinda the same situation either way. Just don't go fighting hate with hate. It will go nowhere fast and nobody wins and it brings down both forums. Just forget they exist and let the mods handle the new accounts they log in under with their trolling buddies. It serves nothing to keep giving their hate existence. People like that operate by you taking the bait so they can drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. Simply flick the bait away!
Boxgods,
Can't get to a camera right now. The four inlet/outlet fittings adjacent to the pump - no problem. Across from the pump are the two ports meant for fluid charge/drainage.
It is these two that I refer to. I have my TIII configured so that it is on its side. On the pump side both outlets are used and one of the inlets. On the other side I am using one port as an inlet and the other as a drain. In both cases in order to use a compression fitting I had to ream out the side panels to make space.
I have an extra port on what is now the top for adding fluid.
Am I clear now, I hope? :).
Totally right. It is just like they teach lifeguards, if the drowning victim is pulling you under take a deep breath and submerge, when they let go just swim away. It would be great if you could save everyone, but some days you just have to save yourself by not being dragged under.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadasius
OK, so your not using the T3 as a bay mounted pump/reservoir it sounds like right? Instead you have it inside your case somewhere and are using one of what would normally be the front fill/drain ports as an inlet.Quote:
Originally Posted by genec57
I actually have run multiple T3's connected together via the front ports with barbs, I don't think compression fittings would fit the included 3/8" polycarbonate ones might just make it but I doubt it. Although I love to see my parts being modded in this particular case I think you might have been better off waiting for the top loader version coming out shortly as it has the same parallel loop capabilities as the T3 but is designed for internal mounting like your doing.
Since you already have a T3 and are not afraid to bust out the dremel you might consider that Cyber Druid has had great luck cutting the face of the T3 off and bonding it to different types of reservoirs, including his latest 5 bay waterfall reservoir. Keeping in mind that if you pooch the mod it's on you, here is how I would do it.
Assuming you don't have access to a laser or table saw, I would use 1" blue painters tape on the BODY side of my cut line to mark where I wanted to cut. Use the dremel (safety glasses) with a reinforced cutoff wheel and cut close to the edge of the tape (but not right on it). When you have the front face cut completely off take a sheet of 320 wet/dry sand paper on a flat surface (Formica counter, sheet of glass etc) and apply even pressure and sand to your tape mark to get it nicely even and flat.
Then take the faceless T3 you have prepped as above and set it on your acrylic sheet and trace a cut line for the new face your making. Cut it out the same way as above and then drill and tap where you want your fitting/s.
Bond the new face onto the T3 with weld-on or your preferred acrylic glue.
Sounds a lot more complicated when reading then when doing provided your comfortable with tools. I may do a tutorial on the process with pictures if anyone is interested. I can also cut the new acrylic face on the laser and tap the G1/4 holes for anyone wanting to do the mod I suppose. It wont be long till your seeing modders doing this mod but instead of a small face plate they are gluing the T3 body right to top windows, front windows, internal acrylic chassis components etc.
That channel you had to dremel out was designed as an overflow basin for refilling. You could of used some G1/4 extenders or antitwist adapters though and probably saved the cutting.Quote:
Originally Posted by genec57
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sidewinderco..._2066_35061614
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sidewinderco..._2066_13751134
Seems Primochill has some stock now for those still looking.
Does that mean there's going to be news of a fix for the 'T3-sits-too-far-out-front-of-case' with certain Antec and Silverstone cases? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Also, I've noticed my T3 has a couple of bubbles from the casting process, on the bottom lip section of the front. They look like 2 little white balls inside the acrylic, only about 1mm in width but still clearly visible. Could you advise whether it's worth RMAing for this, or is it a common issue?
Not a common issue that I have seen. Just open a ticket with Primochill support and they should get you taken care of.
Think that is with all cases. I had the same issue with my Cosmos. A few new holes and it all set though.Quote:
Originally Posted by karbonkid
The problem with hole mounting depth stems from the fact that the particulars of chassis design for the ATX specification and all the revisions that deal with optical drive mounting are very hard to find and most case companies address this by making the holes those elongated type that allow for adjustment. Anyone that has been building machines for a few years has seen optical drives that fit fine in one brand/model and need a little time with a file in another brand/model. I know for a fact that the T3 hits those front elongated holes dead center in Lian-Li cases and slightly forward of dead center in the early Chenbro models for example. It may sound like an excuse but the reality is that if we mooved the mounting location to fit one very specific case then some other design would have issues.
If you DO think I am making an excuse the specifications for the ATX form factor can be found at the link bellow:
http://www.formfactors.org/developer...s%5Catx2_2.pdf
If your case uses the single hole type mounting and does not have the elongated type that allows for adjustment this is easily remedied with a $3 file in about 5 minutes and is a simple task anyone can do.
My case uses slot-in rails. I already drilled the current holes out bigger to get the screws to fit, and I'm not sure there's a recess far enough back on the rail to drill a new hole and have the screw sit flush so the rail actually slides in.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Also, never had any problems with CD drives, hot-swap HDD arrays or even an SCSI film scanner (in this case and many others). The XSPC bayres that used the bottom set of holes instead of the top got it right in the other direction. Not calling you a liar or anything, just sayin' :shrug:
IMO, if you moved the hole about 2 'steps' towards the front, it should work for most people.. Obviously I don't have as much experience as you but if you say it currently fits dead-centre or there-abouts there on the cases you have tried, no harm moving it nearer the front end to make it fit almost everyone?
As I said before, it's not a problem for me, actually works better in fact. If I change my mind I can always use bits of acrylic to bypass the rail system. Not suggesting you change it now, I know that's probably nigh-on-impossible for the moment, but just to bear it in mind for less mechanically-minded folks...
EDIT: Had a look at the ATX spec., doesn't give any specifics as to drive bays (which makes sense as standardized 5.25" bays existed long, long before ATX..). Wikipedia says this info. is referred to in the EIA-741 spec., which I can't get access to. Anyway, like I said before, please don't take this the wrong way - I'm not meaning to call you a liar or discredit you or your product. I have said before and will say again that I think the T3 is a great product. I just think that £50 is just a whole new price league for a res, and for that price a lot of people will expect everything just to fall into place, with no hassle.
No worries =)Quote:
Originally Posted by karbonkid
The problem was sort of compounded also because in order to keep the T3 from going way too deep into the case and possibly conflicting with today's longer video cards I only went back enough to hit the first set of holes. Most users would be happy if the optical drive they are installing hits either the front or the back set, or the top or bottom set which is a luxury I could not build into the T3, again to keep it short enough with a pump on the back of it.
Ah well, live and learn is my motto for the day =)
Well at least you got a lot of insight for the DDC version and maybe a D5 2.0 sometime down the road.
O, btw, I'm still waiting for my faceplate. :p:
Order was placed and paid for on Wednesday the 19th and I was told manufacturing and shipping was about two weeks--so figure three to be safe and to allow some time to track down the double stick mounting and boxes...which puts them in resellers hands about...call it the end of the first week of September or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
That of course is a best guess so no finger pointing if it is longer.
You really think this will stop us. :p: :DQuote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
It's always your fault Geno. ;)
Thanks though. Looking forward to seeing them at the stores. :yepp:
Hey Boxgods,
Any fluid that I can use in the T3 that prevents Galvonic corrosion due to mixed metals?
PC Ice is suppose to be ok for it, and they say it has non corrosive properties. What is causing corrosion in your loop?Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
I am wanting to fire backup my chiller which has aluminium in it. Since I would want it to cool my entire loop it would need to feed the T3. I haven't completely decided yet, so I may just cool my cpu with it, but I was trying to keep it simple.
I realize that a lot of guys will not agree with the following and I SERIOUSLY do not want to start a flame fest, but here goes.
As I understand it from my time messing with boats, electro plating, and plumbing houses you need three things for galvanic corrosion to take place.
1. Two dissimilar metals
2. An electrolyte (water with any type of salt in it)
3. A metal path between the dissimilar metals
There are a lot of other factors that determine how fast corrosion will happen and which metal will be the anode and which will be the cathode such as nobility, ratio of anode to cathode, heat, and the salt content of the water.
The key there is that you need the three items mentioned above. When a plumber is going to connect iron/steel pipe to copper in your home he will run a few feet of plastic pipe between the two to break the electrical contact between the 2 different metals.
So unless your aluminum chiller is in direct contact with your copper water blocks your lacking the third item on the list because the tubing we use is not conductive obviously.
Your protected another way by using a non conductive fluid (and yes I believe PC Ice is non conductive). As long as it is in a sealed loop it will not gather salts from airborne dusts and humidity.
A while back I posted some pictures of various machined aluminum reservoirs I had made and like 5 people posted instantly...you can't do that or the world will ERODE and angels will loose their wings. I have a 5 year old machine that has a copper water block and an aluminum reservoir that are fine--and I run distilled water in the loop.
If you still have doubts...take a look inside your D5 one of these days and have a guess what those metal parts are...300 series stainless steel which is about 10 spaces further down the nobility list then good old copper...
**EDIT** There IS one exception to be aware of. Because we need a circuit for galvanic corrosion to happen, if you were to bolt your aluminum chiller directly to your case, and a copper water block also was in direct contact with your case you COULD conceivable complete the circuit. Your motherboard is of course not in electrical contact with the case (or you would have a short to ground which would suck) and most aluminum cases are anodized...and the area of aluminum compared to copper would be HUGE so even if you managed to get contact (which would be really really hard to do) the effect would be minimal...like years to see a difference above normal corrosion rates.
BoxGods. Stop right there. The level of corrosion that can destroy a block will probably be invisible on a boat. Now, I'm posting to prevent this from turning into another 20 page epic about corrosion. Here's the bottom line. Galvanic corrision WILL happen in a mixed AL/Cu loop. At what pace it happens is determined by the additives and some other factors such as temperature etc etc etc. BUT... it WILL happen. Sometimes several orders of magnitude less than if you were careless. But it WILL happen. There is no solution to galvanic corrosion on earth that will prevent it 100%. None! Its scientifically impossible because there will always be SOME ions that will not get touched by additives. Even if you apply a reverse voltage, there still be some corrosion. It will be small.... but it will happen.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Your example of 300 series steel is a bad example. It is actually a very noble alloy. Far more than mild steel.
If all vendors used unobtainium, corrosion would not be an issue. than again, we would all have liquid helium temps 24/7 if that were the case.
Like I said...some people are going to freak out lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by [XC] riptide
And my example of the 300 series is an EXCELLENT example. The fact that it IS a very noble metal is the point. The further the two metals are apart the more dramatic the effect. The 300 series stainless is much more noble then the copper in your blocks so the copper would be the anode and corrode rapidly...if there were a metal to metal contact.
You guys can read it for yourselves.
http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/For...-corrosion.htm
http://www.corrosionist.com/Galvanic_Corrosion.htm
http://www.cathodicprotection101.com/
There are tons of links online that explain it in detail. The facts are that there MUST be an electrical connection.
Yes there WILL be some corrosion in ALL systems--the difference we are discussing is the difference between a few months and 10 years though...far beyond normal service life on any water cooling component.
:shrug: Sorry buddy... but you don't quite understand it. If the Steel is a noble alloy it means very little corrosion of it, and ANY other metal in the loop. .... the very reason why it IS used in pumps. To corrode it has to be an active metal. Mixing an inactive metal (like your hard steel example) is like mixing plastic with water and copper. ie no effect. Your statement of the farther they are apart = more corrosion is not entirely true. They have to be both active metals.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
The electrical conductivity can and will be provided by the water in the absence of anything else. The current that passes through the water to have the effect of corrosion is so small that it will happen.
You should try a Zalman reserator with a copper block and tell me there is no corrosion. (I had one with a copper, low restriction GPU block)... the residue settled down the bottom of the reserator itself.
Guess we will have to agree to disagree as I have seen galvanic corrosion between two grades of stainless. I am going to go with the experts (and nature) on this one. No circuit...no galvanic corrosion. The more noble a metal is the less likely it is to be the anode (the metal that dissolves/corrodes rapidly). Stainless can STILL be the anode if the other metal is even more noble. The water does NOT make it a circuit...Quote:
Originally Posted by [XC] riptide
I will again point to this link:
http://www.corrosionist.com/Galvanic_Corrosion.htm
Under the three conditions needed for galvanic corrosion number 2 is:
Condition 2. The metals must be in electrical contact
The two different metals must be in electrical contact with each other. This is of course very common. The two metals can be bolted, welded or clamped together, or even just resting against each other.
Under the how to avoid galvanic corrosion section near the bottom of the page it says:
Prevent Electrical Contact.
It is often practical to prevent electrical contact between the dissimilar metals (removal of Condition 2). This may be achieved by the use of nonconducting (eg rubber or plastic) spacers, spool pieces or gaskets, perhaps in conjunction with sleeves around bolts. For the same reason a gap may be left between galvanised roofing and a stainless steel down-pipe.
Again. Not to get this going into a big argument as the only thing I would fight for is your right to disagree, but without a circuit there can be no flow...and the spice MUST flow =)
There are active and passive versions of the stainless you are talking about BoxGods. The passive is most likely the variant they are using in the pumps as it's much higher in chromium. Also, here's a little food for thought, Gold is much higher on the nobility chart than the stainless we're discussing, why then did Koolance use it to cover their early copper blocks when used with aluminum rads? It's because it was so high on the nobility chart that it was actually impervious to the effects of corrosion. Once you get to a certain point on the chart, things have a natural immunity to the effects of corrosion, passive stainless isn't in that group but it's pretty close.
One more thing, I can't for the life of me remember where I saw it but, I saw something one time that showed there is some sort of voltage leak into the CPU block from the CPU, the person that found this showed that there was indeed a leak, but only when the CPU was in place. They tried testing without the CPU and the was no leak at all. IIRC, This was with C2D so I don't know if the same holds true for i7's.
For what it's worth, you don't need a complete circuit to achieve electrical contact, do you?
I think maybe one of us is not getting the point. The 300 series stainless in the D5 would NOT be the anode...the copper in you block would be. The link I posted shows the relative voltage ranges of the various metals. Again, the LESS noble metal would act as the anode and show INCREASED corrosion while the more noble metal would be cathodic and have decreased corrosion. All of this is totally irrelevant because the 300 series stainless steel parts of the D5 are totally isolated from any other metal parts in you cooling loop ELECTRICALLY. My original point in bringing up the D5 was to demonstrate a REAL example of dissimilar metals that have been in everyone's cooling loops for years without any galvanic corrosion rather then resorting to the heard it from a guy who heard it from his brother type anecdotal evidence we normally see posted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Here is the link again:
http://www.ceoe.udel.edu/seagrant/pu...corrosion.html
Keep in mind that that is written by a professor of applied sciences...
As for the CPU leaking an electrical charge to the block. I would doubt this but I can't say for sure. It would not matter if it HAD happened though because adding electricity to an OPEN branch still would not provide a closed contact electrical coupling. For that to happen the cpu block would need to be in contact with another dissimilar metal in the loop still...
I am not EXACTLY sure what your asking...I am going to assume (yeah yeah I know) that you mean that for galvanic corrosion to happen you do not need a circuit because contact between the two dissimilar metals is enough...which is in its simplest terms a circuit lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuey
Look at it like this.
Copper block>>>>>>>>>>tube>>>>>>>>aluminum block
That is obviously not a circuit...call it a branch and because the dissimilar metals are NOT coupled there is no galvanic corrosion happening.
Now if it went:
copper block with aluminum top>>>>>>>>tube>>>>>>>>copper radiator
you DO have the potential for galvanic corrosion because the copper and aluminum are in contact with each other AND the fluid...if you were using a non conductive fluid you would actually still be missing one of the three REQUIRED components for galvanic corrosion to happen.
See the link bellow as I think it explains it in very simple clear terms. In order for galvanic corrosion to happen you MUST MUST MUST have the following three conditions...and it lists them. At the bottom it lists how to preven them and one of them is to put something non conductive between the metal parts...like the tubing we use.
http://www.corrosionist.com/Galvanic_Corrosion.htm
I am really not making this stuff up guys...the links are from specialists and scientists, please just read it for yourselves and you will see...
Let me stop this discussion real quick, my situation is a I have a window AC that I turned into a chiller by placing the evaporator into a cooler which is then filled with fluid and circulated through the loop. The evaporator itself is copper, but the fins that are on it are aluminum, hence is why I get the corrosion in the first place. I could pull it all apart and remove the fins, but that would be a real PITA.
So, back to my original question, is there a fluid that will not harm the T3 that will prevent corrosion, albeit not forever (Riptide)? It just would be easier for me to run the entire loop off of the chiller than to separate the cpu from the current loop.
PC Ice. It doesn't have ethylene glycol in it, so shouldn't void warranty. It is Primochills coolant, so hope it works in T3 :yepp:
From Primochill's site:
Features:
* Non-Conductive*.
* Pre-mixed and ready to go, just add your choice of color**.
* Ships with the dye separate so you can get the exact tint you want.
* Special corrosive inhibiting ingredients to prevent sludge build up and galvanic corrosion**.
* Special broad-spectrum antimicrobial agent, helps keep your cooling loop pristine**.
* Safe on all plastics, rubbers, and miscellaneous gasket materials.
* Environmentally responsible food safe NON-TOXIC biodegradable product—good for you, good for your PC, and good for the planet. We do NOT use Ethylene Glycol in our fluids.
* Formulated for high flow pumps and is not prone to mechanical sheering.
* Specially formulated with excellent lubrication properties to increase pump life.
* 3 year shelf life, unopened.
* Freeze point below -30F.
Hmmm, $100 worth of fluid or remove the aluminum fins or run just a separate cpu loop? Maybe this is why I am thinking about TEC.
I thought your temps were good. :confused:
Are you just looking to push that chip as fair as it goes?
Temps are fine for average Joe, but now that it's built I have to look to the next adventure, so why not see how far I can push it, that's all. I am looking to try out TEC's, which is probably where I will end up since I haven't tried that yet, but I would still like to be able to use my chiller if I want too. I designed it to quickly connect to my current loop using QD's, that way i could use it anytime I want without a lot of hassle.
Got ya, well probably should just strip out the fins so you don't have to worry about it. :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
TEC's are a lot of fun if your into tinkering...though how hard could taking the fins off be? Are they held on with thermal epoxy? If so I have done the freezer method a few times with good results.
Pretty much what it sounds like. Freeze the thing over night then slip a knife blade under an edge, apply some pressure, then wrap the fins a solid sharp tap...the thermal epoxy has usually shrunk at a different rate then the other two materials and the blade is applying directional forces and the tap causes the now (hopefully) brittle thermal epoxy to shatter.
. . .and you completely ignored my Koolance example which is a far greater distance of metal nobility than the stainless/copper example.;)Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
*sigh*Agree to disagree it is then.:(
Did I? Sorry. I remember those, but as I recall it was about THERMAL conductivity...there was a few months there where that gold stuff was all the rage for thermal conductivity.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
I say that because it comes back to dissimilar metals...coating copper with gold to prevent a non coupled aluminum part from corroding would not work (not that there would be a problem because the aluminum radiator was not in contact with the copper/gold CPU block). If it WERE an issue you would have to plate the radiator in copper...
I happen to know for a fact your a brighter then average guy so your either playing devils advocate here or you didn't take the five minutes to READ the links ;)
Whoops I missed your agree to disagree comment. AGREED =)
Besides Galvanic corrosion, there is corrosion due to dissolved Cathions. And of course the cathions move around by virtue of a pump. The noble elements rarely give off cathions... or any ions for that matter. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
In the example of copper and Alu its:
3Cu(2+) + 6e- > 3Cu
2Al > 2Al(3+) + 6e-
Therefore.... 3Cu(2+) + 2Al > 3Al(3+) + 3Cu
^^ Thats the reduction of copper by the oxidation of Aluminium, and leads to pitting. Happens in Water.
Ooopppss, did I forget to mention that Koolance blocks like the CPU-330 and GPU-200 also have nickel plated aluminum tops? :wasntme::para:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Now the i really wanted to get this for my first water loop, but the question is who has it in stock? i have asked Jab-Tech and they really don't know when they are getting any :(
Primochill had a few a couple of days ago. have to ask BoxGods when he will be making more.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fafeifa
It likes like Performance-PCs still has a few in stock.
No idea on the PEC (the T3 with a pump) as the 8 poert version is shipping out end of this week...then prolly more of the pumped ones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
They have an option with theirs to order a pump also. Looks it is about the same price. Just use the drop down menu. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuey
Talked to Brian at Primo and he confirmed that a batch of the 8 ports would be going out Friday or Monday with a batch of the T3 PEC's to follow withing 3-4 days. I have no idea to where/which stores though.
8 ports? 4 loops? we need some figures/ reviews on that beasty!
I'm thinking he is referring to the top and bottom port versions. Some people with MM cases find it troublesome to tilt the cases onto it's back for filling and on to its face for draining.Quote:
Originally Posted by m1013828
He fixed that by offering top and bottom ports.
Nope, there was another version sans pump that had 4 sets of inlets/outlets that was touted around the time of the original announcement of these res's.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
ahh, haven't heard much about that version.Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
There was? Damn, I missed that....could have used one of them. :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Instead using a Bitspower 5.25" res that has it's top port at the lowest point at the top. Works fine otherwise, but makes bleeding such a PITA :cussing:
Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Yep, here's a few images I was able to dig up on short notice. The yellow thing in the first one is a spinner.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...3&postcount=16
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...9&postcount=77
I hope that spinner isn't included. I'm not certain what you would do with all those ports though. :shrug:
I want a water to water heat exchanger!!!
I don't care if its plate-frame or shell tube, but all of these reservoirs with multi port capabilities are just begging for it. While I'm tossing around a wish list, have the ability for the water to water heat exchanger to take TEC's and an intergrated PWM controller. :) We're getting closer and closer to running psuedo condensor and evaporator style loops.
Maybe they should experiment with a 6 port triple loop though? or would that be moving past the efficiency range of the D5 to the point that its struggling like me on my army run tests?
That would only be beneficial with really, really restrictive subloops (unfortunately). I think the 'ideal' point with a D5 is somewhere between 1 and 2 subloops...but of course we can't have non-integer quantities :p:
If done right, something like an RD-30 would be killer for parallel :slobber:
I actually HAVE run a three loop version lol. It works just fine but I think the plumbing gets a bit crazy at some point...it is pretty simple to convert the T3 into a three loop version to tinker with.
On the 8 port, no thank the stars Brian decided to 86 the gay little spinner propeller thingy lol. The 8 ports do come in handy for some projects, but most of the time the extra ports are so people can put the line exactly where they need it, and then populate the rest of the ports with LED plugs to amp up the light.
Here is a nice little accessory for the 8 port T3.
http://www.bods-mods.com/Trident/LED1.jpg
It is a tiny 20 station LED driver board that plugs into a standard molex. It has 2 pins for a switch if you want to add one.
http://www.bods-mods.com/Trident/LED4.jpg
Makes short work of the tool free LED plugs included with both versions of the T3. They sell in a little open topped black and UV case and come with 24" prewired LED's. Should be in retail in the next week or two.
Thanks to Boddaker for the pictures which are from his current project, Neptune's Trident. You can find his work log just about anywhere quality builds are showcased. He is also one of the modders in the ION contest.
ALMOST VEGAS TIME BOD!!!!
moddersmart sucks for RMA returns that is all so now they are on blast
I linked your post to Mel who oversees customer support for ModdersMart and PrimoChill and she said if you can provide her your ticket number she would be happy to see what is up with your RMA. You can PM me the number and I can pass it on, or call their support, or use the contact feature in the ticket system.Quote:
Originally Posted by d50man
Phone is fastest.
Hi just curious, any new products coming in for the T3?
Anyone know where I can purchase the 2x LED that comes with the T3, the ones from first run or jab-tech maybe only came with blue, don't think there were option for UV. I see UV as an option on the primochill website under the drop down menu, but in the accessories section for separate purchase.
PrimoChill's site gave you the option of what color LEDs and Comp fittings you wanted with your T3. It seems most other places didn't.Quote:
Originally Posted by ptrout
Here are the LEDs, though I don't see any UV ones there.
Face plates shipped TODAY!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by GregSG
As far as I know Brian ordered 100 face plates split to 10 polished/chrome plated 40 brushed anodized silver/clear and 50 brushed anodized black. I do not know if or when he will order more as I can't imagine they are making much off of these or which resellers are getting them...US only or if there will be any going to the EU etc. The point is if you want one I would order it as soon as you see it for sale at your favorite reseller.
I sent a black and a silver bay cover from Lian-Li and the manufacturer assures me they can match the look very closely.
I am already hounding Brian to get me at least 2 of the black and 1 silver to give away to some guys in here that have already asked for a sample but he did not commit one way or the other so we will see. He said modders Primo sponsor get first dibs...
There are also metal compressions for the T3 coming as an option.
Wonder what shipping would be all the way to Singapore? Might be cheaper if I just got on a plane and delivered them...cept my wife would want to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
I desperately need one of these in black. I hope they will be offered in Europe. Is there any way you can find out for sure which resellers are getting them or at least whether or not they will be US only? I will order from a US shop if I have to.
Is this fine to use with a single CPU loop? Or is it more suited for dual loops only?
Perfectly fine for a single loop, it'd probably suit a single loop better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Artemis
It will work just fine in a single loop. It is designed more for a dual, but you can see skinnee's review here, it held its own in single.Quote:
Originally Posted by Artemis
Thanks thats great news! And are you able to use metal barbs on this or only the stock fittings provided?Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
I use the stock ones. People have said that a thicker O-ring on a BP comp fitting works too. Just be certain to leak test if you decide to use other comp fittings. There are also barbs on Primochill's site that should work directly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Artemis
I will ask again but I doubt he even knows yet himself...Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
Yes there are metal barbs designed specifically for PrimoChill parts. There will also be metal compression fittings out soon as well. Something a LITTLE different (what else would you expect from me lol)Quote:
Originally Posted by Artemis
http://www.moddersmart.com/en/primoc...ng-2-pack.html
DB just got his Polished aluminum face plate in the mail today. He was kind enough to drop it into his current Trek Away Team Case build and grab a few pics.
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/1260/dsc01830ajm.jpg
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/8645/dsc01829k.jpg
He hasn't had a chance to crack the center pod open and adjust the T3 a bit deeper into the case yet so the face plate is a tad high, but you get the idea of how much better a face plate with depth looks compared to the typical flat faced "2D" type.
Not sure where his work log is at XS but it's a cool build worth checking out ;)
It has 2 full systems with 4 fold out displays. Both systems (so 2 CPU's and 2 GPU's) are run off of a single PSU and a single T3.
DB...sorry man but I can't resist.
For those that don't know the build is sort of a portable engineering work station used by SCE away teams (Starfleet Corps of Engineers) which is analogous in the Trek verse to the Navy Sea Bee's or the Army Corps of Engineers.
SCE away team engineering stations...built for engineers by engineers. They can interface with unknown alien ships systems, regulate anti-matter injectors, and replicate virtually any engineering parts needed for emergency repairs--including self sealing stem bolts. If you smell something burning do not panic as it's just the built in three slice toast replicator.
When are the T3 face plates gonna be ready for sale?
They have already shipped from the manufacturer and should be in the US first of next week (say the 7th) and should be off to resellers by the end of the week. So short answer is pretty soon.
Got another question. I'm using the European 16mm OD/ 10mm ID tubing (DD/Feser 3/8 in). When using the included 3/8 x 5/8in. fittings, I noticed that if I try, I can pull the tubing off the fitting even after screwing the compression all the way down. This is actually physically pulling on the tubing using medium force. Do you think I run the risk of the tubing popping off the fitting using these? I ask because this does not happen when using metal 16/10 fittings.
There is so much of that question that is subjective that there is no way I could answer for sure. "Medium pressure" when pulled is especially vague lol. The PrimoFlex LRT conforms to what I guess is the standard on this side of the pond, 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD or 9.525 mm ID by 15.87 mm OD so unless you have small children who might be prone to reach in and yank on a tube when you were not looking...likely not an issue. That is assuming of course that you have looped it up and there were no leaks.Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
Said another way, if your asking if I think the T3 could generate enough pressure to pop one off...no of course not. Obviously you need to leak test (just like you would for any new installation) before you stuff all your valuable parts in the case.
Thanks for your answer. The tubing just came off more easily than I'd like is all. I have no idea what the tolerances are for this tubing but when we are dealing with tenths of a milimeter I have to think it will be ok and won't pop off due to pressure in the loop. I have been leak testing/bleeding for about 24 hours and all is well so far. I am having some difficulty getting all the air out but I'm sure that with time it will all work its way out like it always does. Over all I am very happy with the res and I appreciate all the thought you put into the design. It's innovation like this that keeps this hobby interesting and my wallet empty :)
I found that if you top the res almost completely off, it helps with bleeding. It seems that the res will pull air from just a small air pocket.Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
My problem is that the air pocket seems to keep recycling, the pump seems to keep pulling the air bubbles in before they make their way to the top of the res. If I leave the case in one position, either sitting upright or on its back with the res at the top, and leave it running long enough, it calms down and the flow is very smooth but as soon as I tilt the case in the slightest the res fills with air bubbles again. I've tried cycling the pump in various positions while opening and closing the res and also varying pump speed but still experience foaming of the fluid even after just over 24 hours of constant running.
I had the same problem, fill it up so that the air bubble is pretty much gone. :up:
Actually I have done that already but the problem persists in my case.
If you keep getting bubbles you still have air. Fill the res, tilt it, fill it, tilt it and eventually you will get all the air out. In a closed system it pretty much has to happen that way.
Your not running beer for fluid are you ;)
must not be fully bleed :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
I have tilted every which way, filled, tilted, filled ad nauseum but still have the same problem. I'm not new to water cooling and in my case at least, bleeding doesn't seem to be any easier with this res than with others I have used. I've still got plenty of trapped air in the loop I just can't seem to get rid of no matter what I do but I am sure it will eventually work its way out as it always does.
BoxGods, I'm not using beer in my loop but have consumed plenty of it while attempting to rid the loop of foam/air, the good German stuff too :) I am actually using PrimoChill PC Pure fluid to avoid problems with the adhesive used in the construction of the res.
might be part of the problem. That PC Ice seems to foam up pretty bad no matter what. I had used some for a little bit and didn't like how it foamed so much.
Got any photos of your loop. Your rads might be mounted to where the inlet and outlet are at the bottom. That is suppose to be a pain to bleed that way too.
Ok, that's good to know. I'm not going to change out fluid at this point though unless the problem persists and temps suffer.
I haven't bothered with photos because I don't have access to a decent camera and the pics always come out disappointing. I'm running two loops parallel in a TJ07, one loop = res > XSPC 480 > CPU block Watercool Heatkiller LT rev3 > EK fusion block mounted on R2E stock cooler > return to res and the second loop = res > XSPC 240 > EK GTX295 single PCB block with back block > return to res. I'll post sh*tty pics if you really want to see them but they won't do the thing justice. I'm using colored tubing for the CPU loop and red for the GPU so I can't tell how much air is in the lines but I can sure see it through the plexy top of the EK GPU block. The 295 single PCB block is really a work of art by the way and I highly recommend it to anyone looking for a block for this card. The back block is total overkill but it sure looks nice and adds stability overall (no warping whatsoever) and provides a bit better connectivity as the port on the back of the normal block is uncomfortably shallow. It looks almost like even a Bitspower fitting would bottom out on it.
*edit* just wanted to add that I put the inlets at the bottom of the rads and outlets at the top (they are on their sides as is typical at the bottom of a TJ07).
NO!Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
Outlets closest to the pump, inlets farthest from the pump!!!
:shocked::shocked:Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
+1 on Skinnee, that probably alot of your problem. I'm surprised your temps are ok. :eek:
I think he means he has the T3 tipped on its side...right? so the "top" inlets would then be the pair closest to the pump and become outlets and the "bottom" pair would be the pair farthest from the pump and would then become the inlets...of course if you DO have it set up the wrong way then there is why it's foaming...you have to remember the T3 moves a LOT of water...you are running it like a jacuzzi pump lol. Plain water would foam under those conditions.
Sorry, it was about 3 a.m. my time when I posted that and I was a little foggy. Actually I was referring to the rads and I have corrected my post. I have the outlets and inlets from the res configured correctly as everyone described.
Ok, that makes more sense ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
Are the rad ports toward the front of the case, or the back. That is one thing I noticed about the T3. If you mount the rad so the ports are toward the back of the case, they will rotate to be at the bottom of the rad. That is suppose to be more difficult to bleed than when the are at the top of the rad.
Mine are that way. I found that I had to cap the ports off and tilt the case forward to break the air bubble apart that was still in my rad. I could then lie it back and open the ports back up again.
The ports are at the back end of the case. I have also tried tilting the case forward several times. I don't get the usual gurgle like you get from the radiators when air is in them, so I think they are air-free now. At least I hope so. I've given up trying to bleed it all out and will try using the system now and see if more air gets trapped in the res with time with it stationary.
Well I've been using the system for several hours now and temps are not very good. I assume because of all the air in the loop because given my hardware, I should be getting much nicer temps. So I guess it's back to the bleed for me. I hope I make a breathrough soon because this gets really old after 3 days.
As an aside, I would like some clarification of what is meant by "harsh chemicals" regarding the use of coolant with this res. I would probably just go distilled with PT Nuke if I change coolant but reading through the description of the additive, it sounds like it's got some pretty nasty stuff in it too. I would like some clarification as to which of the commonly used chemicals in coolant are allowed from the manufacturer's perspective. Any input here BoxGods?
I haven't had any issues running distilled with PT Nuke (the clear version, not the blue).
I use iandh's silver killcoils in mine. You can't use anything that has ethylene glycol in it. PT Nuke doesn't have any, so you are fine. You may just want to drain it and go buy some distilled and a kill coil, or some PT Nuke and try that. :shrug:
Yeah, as far as I know only the ethylene glycol and alcohol are the only no no's. Sorry for the slow answer but I am helping DB and Bod get rigs ready for PAX and working on two builds myself. Thanks to the guys in here helping out with answers. XS community FTW!
Damn, wish i could go to PAX, be certain to post some photos Geno :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
You and me both man...I am not going either. I bet that is a fantastic event too. I know DB will load up on pictures though.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359