Yep, I have two 4870x2's in mine.
Here is my build log:
Touge180SX's Custom DD Water Box Plus Classy Build
Printable View
Yep, I have two 4870x2's in mine.
Here is my build log:
Touge180SX's Custom DD Water Box Plus Classy Build
quick question, how to covert mV to V ? example:
the defult CPU VTT is 1.1v = +0mV .
+50mv would be 1.15v
+100mv is 1.2v
and etc
1mv = .001v
100mv = .1v
gotcha, thanks for the fast reply .
The default CPU VTT is not 1.1, its 1.2. I`m using for 24/7 +0V = 1.2 measured with DMM and + 0.05 = 1.25, + 0.075 = 1.275, +0.1 = 1.3 ...
The default just cant be 1.1 because of the diffrence between VTT and memory voltage if its 1.1 it ll be 0.55 when memory is running at the default 1.65V, but higher diffrence than 0.5 can kill the CPU.
good enough thanks again
What B2B settings are you guys using? I've heard 4 is best if you can pull it off?
Im using 4 atm, everest read and aq3 seem to really like it so far
on s61a (and b ?) need to set B2B 3 in BIOS to get 4 in cputweaker.. bandwidth and 32M suggest cputweaker is showing correct value for B2B.
BIOS set 4 (tweaker 5) is slower than Auto/disabled/0 at clocks i tried.
Is it best to leave Vdroop enabled with the EVGA boards? I have read arguments from both sides, it seems better to leave it on and add the little extra Vcore to the CPU to supply power under load, although I could be wrong. Will the voltage spikes with it off ruin any equipment or will the power supply system of the Classified be able to handle those spikes?
Never tried turning Vdroop on lol. Its not DFI, where if u leave it on and the PWM cant be cooled on air. I`m using 1.4V BIOS measured 1.39 idle, and 1.41 load Without Vdroop and the PWM temp was max 50-55 during the hottest summer days.
http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k...g?t=1255705585
The newer BIOS' (61A & B) play a lot nicer with 12GB of RAM than the previous BIOS'. Previous 100% stable OC was 4.24GHz, now 4.5GHz (215x21 set in BIOS, not ELEET).
Been around a long time, just never posted.
Mother Board ( EVGA X58 Classified E-760 )
Drivers ( )
Bios ( 61B )
CPU ( Core i7 920 D0 )
CPU Cooler ( Cool-IT Boreas )
Memory ( 12GB OCZ DDR3-1600 )
PSU ( E-Power Tiger 1200W )
GPU ( GTX295 )
Drivers ( 191.07 )
Operating System ( Windows Vista 64 Ultimate )
Frequency Control
CPU Clock Ratio ( 21X )
CPU Host Frequency (Mhz) ( 215 )
MCH Strap ( Auto )
CPU Uncore Frequency (Mhz) ( AUTO )
CPU Clock Skew ( 0 ps )
Spread Spectrum ( Disabled )
PCIE Frequency (Mhz) ( 105 )
Memory Feature
Memory Speed ( Standard )
Memory Control Setting ( Enabled )
Memory Frequency ( 1716Mhz / 2:8 )
Channel Interleave Setting ( 6 Way )
Rank Interleave Setting ( 4 Way )
Memory Low Gap ( Auto )
tCL Setting ( 9 )
tRCD Setting ( 9 )
tRP Setting ( 9 )
tRAS Setting ( 24 )
tRFC Setting ( 59 )
Command Rate ( 2t )
B2B Setting ( 3 )
Voltage Control
EVGA VDroop Control ( Without VDroop )
CPU VCore ( 1.3625 )
CPU VTT Voltage ( +75 )
CPU PLL VCore ( 1.350 )
**IOH PLL VCore ( 1.65 )
DIMM Voltage ( 1.65 )
DIMM DQ Vref ( +0mV )
QPI PLL VCore ( 1.400 )
IOH VCore ( Auto )
IOH/ICH I/O Voltage ( Auto )
**VTT PWM Frequency ( 610 KHZ )
**CPU PWM Frequency ( 1333 KHZ )
**CPU Impedance ( Less )
**QPI Signal Compensation ( Less )
ICH VCore ( Auto )
CPU Feature
Intel SpeedStep ( Disabled )
Turbo Mode Function ( Enabled )
CxE Function ( Disabled )
Execute Disable Bit ( Enabled )
Virtualization Technology ( Disabled )
Intel HT Technology ( Enabled )
Active Processor Cores ( All )
QPI Control Settings ( Enabled )
QPI Link Fast Mode ( Enabled )
QPI Frequency Selection ( 4.800 GT/s )
OC Recorvery ( Enabled )
PnP/PCI PCI Express
Maximum Payload Size ( 4096 )
I am having some major problems trying to get the classified stable past 4.1Ghz, now I think it might be a problem with the new memory I had just got, the HyperX 2000mhz cas 9 kit, with the BBSE elipisa (spellINg?) based chips. Now I never ran my uncore at 4000mhz before, what kind of Vtt voltage will I be looking at in order to keep the system stable. I am trying to run my RAM around 1000mhz or more, and my Uncore will be a min of 4k mhz, any ideas, I tried Vtt of about 1.500v and I get green screens and system hangs with even a high 1.40 Vcore, which is what I need for 4.4ghz on my UD5, not 4.2, I only need 1.344V Vcore on my Ud5 I would think the classified would shave some off and maybe give a lower voltage. I am okay in linx with a 2:6 memory divider, but 2:10 is all :banana::banana::banana::banana:ted up on me. I would like to try and see what my new RAM kit can handle so I want to push it, my memory timings are also loose at 9-9-9-24 1t. Any ideas? The classified is taking some time, a learning curve I would say options I never had before, but also some options less than the UD5, now is there a HPET option on the classified? I dont see one.
The new s61B Bios, I think those are the newest ones...And updating the BIOS with a USB drive is a job compared to the ud5, which was like a hot knife through butter it was so easy.
I am just not used to the settings and options the board has this is my 1st time really sitting and trying to OC it. Now the MCH strap I have on auto, since there is no memory controller on the IOH, so what does this control now, the MC in the i7? I also have the 3 PLL voltages on auto I will check the rest of my settings.
try increasing the qpi/pll a bit?
What would be a good increase on such? 50 mV? Or more, I never had a QPI PLL on the UD5 I was using.
Jake, take my template and fillout your settings. I'll be around all night and would be happy to help anyway I can.
I found it is the Uncore giving me the trouble I ran the classified on a lower Uncore and I can pass Linx without a problem, I was running these settings when I had the problem:
Mother Board ( EVGA X58 Classified E-760 )
Drivers ( )
Bios ( S61B )
CPU ( Core i7 920 D0 )
CPU Cooler ( TRUE Push-Pull )
Memory ( 6GB Kingston HyperX 2000mhz Cas9 )
PSU ( Thermaltake ToughPower 1200W )
GPU ( ATI 5870 )
Drivers ( 9.10Beta )
Operating System ( Windows 7 Pro )
Frequency Control
CPU Clock Ratio ( 21X )
CPU Host Frequency (Mhz) ( 201)
MCH Strap ( Auto )
CPU Uncore Frequency (Mhz) ( x20/4000Mhz)
CPU Clock Skew ( 0 ps )
Spread Spectrum ( Disabled )
PCIE Frequency (Mhz) ( 102 )
Memory Feature
Memory Speed ( Standard )
Memory Control Setting ( Enabled )
Memory Frequency ( 2000/ 2:10 )
Channel Interleave Setting ( 6 Way )
Rank Interleave Setting ( 4 Way )
Memory Low Gap ( Auto )
tCL Setting ( 8 )
tRCD Setting ( 9 )
tRP Setting ( 8 )
tRAS Setting ( 21 )
tRFC Setting ( 88 )
Command Rate ( 1t )
B2B Setting ( Auto/0 )
Voltage Control
EVGA VDroop Control ( Without VDroop )
CPU VCore ( 1.3625 )
CPU VTT Voltage ( +300mV )
CPU PLL VCore ( Auto )
**IOH PLL VCore (Auto )
DIMM Voltage ( 1.66V )
DIMM DQ Vref ( +0mV )
QPI PLL VCore ( Auto )
IOH VCore ( 1.200V )
IOH/ICH I/O Voltage ( Auto )
**VTT PWM Frequency ( 610 KHZ )
**CPU PWM Frequency ( 1210 KHZ )
**CPU Impedance ( Less )
**QPI Signal Compensation ( Less )
ICH VCore ( Auto )
CPU Feature
Intel SpeedStep ( Disabled )
Turbo Mode Function ( Enabled )
CxE Function ( Disabled )
Execute Disable Bit ( Enabled )
Virtualization Technology ( Disabled )
Intel HT Technology ( Enabled )
Active Processor Cores ( All )
QPI Control Settings ( Enabled )
QPI Link Fast Mode ( Enabled )
QPI Frequency Selection ( 4.800 GT/s )
OC Recorvery ( Enabled )
PnP/PCI PCI Express
Maximum Payload Size ( Atuo/128 (I think the lowest) )
Okay those are my settings I was having trouble with, now when I just change the memory multiplier to 2:8 so they run at 1600Mhz, and the Uncore from x20 to x18, so I am running a 2:9 memory-uncore divider, I have NO problem at all being stable, it is just when I want to go for an Uncore of 4000mhz and a memory speed of 2000mhz, I dont know why.
I usually leave Uncore at "Auto".....unless benchmarking. If you are going to drop the memory divider, I'd recommend reducing the CPU VTT....+300 is a bit high
Yah I did drop the Vtt when I dropped the memory and uncore down, now it is at 200 or 175 something close. I will fool with it some more tonight before I crash
I try to keep the VTT at +75 -100, that keeps it around 1.36-1.38V, which is the max recommended.
been having problems with my core i7 oc.
Case is 800d which isn't great for airflow
CPU cooler is TRUE Black Rev C. with North/South Push/Pull config
My temps at 3.3ghz 1.3 vcore are in mid 50's on all cores at idle
Should I update BIOS? not sure which version I have but just got computer yesturday)
PIC:
use realtemp or Core temp for checking your core temps when running idle and load, I have had bad luck with E-leet for voltage read outs and temps, realtemp you can dl here or at techpowerup.com, and coretemp, google it.
+75 - +100mV Vtt =! 1.36 - 1.38V
Classified's readings are bogus... +75mV is about 1.25 - 1.275V real. You have to USE the voltage readings from the pads to check. DMM is a must for serious overclockers today (and was in the past as well).
temps in realtemp are low 50s
ive just ordered the evga sli le board hope its going to perform well with the i7 ?
Hello everybody.
I'm about to buy Classified 760 mobo. What slots should I use to run 2 way SLI with 2x GTX 275?
I want both slots to run at x16.
Is it 1 and 3, or 1 and 2. I will leave remaining two slots empty.
Thanks.
I tried to put my single 285 at the 2nd slot and it was running at 8x, didnt tried the 3rd and 4th because the PSU is too close (case CM 690 and battle axe video cooling). I cant believe that using first and second slot about SLI will be 2x16x when only single card at 2nd slot is running at 8x.
Maybe on yours....
Full of yourself much?
Pull the side off your case, and see what kind of affect that has on the temps. If they dont drop a lot, then I'd consider reseating the HSF.Quote:
been having problems with my core i7 oc.
Case is 800d which isn't great for airflow
CPU cooler is TRUE Black Rev C. with North/South Push/Pull config
My temps at 3.3ghz 1.3 vcore are in mid 50's on all cores at idle
Should I update BIOS? not sure which version I have but just got computer yesturday)
The readings are off, but not terribly. They are a good guide for someone who doesnt have a multimeter (As in keeping the guys hardware safe). If the guy doesnt have a multimeter, then telling him to keep it within the guidelines based on what he has available is simply sound advice.
Mine, ELEET says 1.3V, actual (DMM) is 1.33V.
Crap, so that means I'm running my SLI setup @x8? Here's a screenie of GPU-Z.
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/4114/vcss.jpg
Heres the thing, if you have the E760, you can use the 1 &3 slots for x16, but if you use any slot besides the PCI-E x1 slot, its going to be x8, because the E-760 doesnt have the NF200. A lot of people were disappointed after buying the E760 when they tried to plug in a sound card, or RAID controller and couldnt figure out why they were running x8 in SLI.
All Classifieds I know of would mostly undervolt VTT, some exceptions will get you what's been set in BIOS. All reports of too high vtt I've been reading were from people relying on BIOS readings (Eleet)...
My board was always showing about 0.1V too high vtt. 1.35V set resulted in 1.324V under load and idle - eleet reading 1.43V!
That's the case with all the classifieds friends and fellow ocers are/were owning. Some of the 760 I know of were at least getting you the set voltage for DMM readouts.
You really might have an EXCEPTION board here, as the classified has been out for quite some months now and I never saw any reports about too high vtt DMM readouts anywhere on the web.
The E759 can run x16 in the top 3 PCI-E slots, because it has the NF200 chip, which provides extra lanes. The E760 doesnt have the NF200 chip, so you are limited to:
Slot #1 x16, or x8 if slot #2 is occupied
Slot #2 x8
Slot #3 16x, or x8 if slot #4 is occupied
Slot #4 x8
This might have come up already, but with 31 pages of thread I'm not likely to find it.
Is anyone else having issues with dropping RAM in Windows? Seemingly at random, I'll boot into Windows to see "6.00GB (xGB usable)" in System Properties, and games etc. only have access to that reduced amount of memory. CPU-Z and every other utility I've tried shows the full 6GB, but Windows only thinks that lesser amount is "usable". I can get it to see the full amount rebooting a few times or by swapping around the DIMMs from slot to slot, but the problem just reoccurs with the new configuration until I swap my RAM around again. I've tried Memtest, which passes, and boosting vTT and vCore hugely, but it doesn't seem to do anything.
This i noticed, maybe not exactly the same, but there is a setting like the old "aparture" setting, atleast in my DFI there are, should be used when having SLI or so, dedicating more memory for the graphics, I once noticed in win 7, it showed 3GB, 2GB usable, wtf? well then "lowgap" was set so it was dedicating 1gb for graphics......i lowerd this, and its back to normal..... dunno bout the Classy? or perhps its not your problem at all :) seen some strange behaviour about this on all board, RAM not showing, or even working as it should, CPU mem channel problems? think some have fixed this by changing either mobo or cpu.
I had this happen on the Blood Rage & the Classified 759. Once was too much pressure on the the CPU by the WB & the other was to re-seat the processor in the holder. There is a little play and re-seating it dead center did the trick for me. Hope this helps, :D
anyone else get dead link when trying to update bios.
need some help,
im getting BSOD : IRQL_NOT LESS_OR_EQUAL
trying to get it stable @4ghz
CPU Clock Ratio : 20
CPU Host Frequency (Mhz) : 190
DRAM Frequency - DDR3 - 1451MHz
eVGA VDroop Control : Without vDroop
CPU VCore : 1.275V
CPU VTT Voltage : +75mV
CPU PLL VCore : Auto
IOH PLL VCore : Auto
QPI PLL VCore : Auto
DIMM Voltage : 1.60V ---> 1.65 bios reading + e-leet
DIMM DQ Vref : +0mV
IOH VCore : 1.200V
IOH/ICH I/O Voltage : Auto
ICH Vcore : Auto
VTT PWM Frequency : 250 Khz
CPU PWM Frequency : 800 Khz
CPU Impedance : Auto
QPI Signal Compensation : Auto
everything els is on Auto
EDIT:
At first glance, I'd recommend boosting the VCore a couple notches.
If you still have the same issue after trying that, boost the VDIMM a notch. the rest of your settings look pretty good... Although I have found dropping the CPU and QPI PLL to 1.625V helps stability during overclocking.
They released a bios allowing PCI-e packet size to be manipulated last week, i am running tri-sli AND a raid card that is x8....SO what do you guys think has anyone tested different packet sizes on this board yet? if so, results?
ok stable now @4ghz
my settings are :
Frequency Control
CPU Clock Ratio ( 20X )
CPU Host Frequency (Mhz) ( 190 )
MCH Strap ( Auto )
CPU Uncore Frequency (Mhz) ( Auto ) ---> ok to leave it Auto ??
CPU Clock Skew ( 0 ps )
Spread Spectrum ( Disabled )
PCIE Frequency (Mhz) ( 100 )
Memory Feature
Memory Speed ( Standard )
Memory Control Setting ( Enabled )
Memory Frequency ( 1067Mhz / 2:8 )
Channel Interleave Setting ( 6 Way )
Rank Interleave Setting ( 4 Way )
Memory Low Gap ( auto )
tCL Setting ( 7 )
tRCD Setting ( 7 )
tRP Setting ( 7 )
tRAS Setting ( 26 )
tRFC Setting ( 59 )
Command Rate ( 1t )
Voltage Control
EVGA VDroop Control ( Without VDroop )
CPU VCore ( 1.3 )
CPU VTT Voltage ( +75 )
CPU PLL VCore ( 1.650 ) ---> is this ok? the default was 1.8
IOH PLL VCore ( Auto )
QPI PLL VCore ( Auto )
DIMM Voltage ( 1.60 )
DIMM DQ Vref ( +0mV )
IOH VCore ( Auto )
IOH/ICH I/O Voltage ( Auto )
ICH VCore ( Auto )
**VTT PWM Frequency ( 250 )
**CPU PWM Frequency ( 800 )
**CPU Impedance ( Auto )
**QPI Signal Compensation ( Auto )
CPU Feature
Intel SpeedStep ( Disabled )
Turbo Mode Function ( Enabled )
CxE Function ( Disabled )
Execute Disable Bit ( Enabled )
Virtualization Technology ( Disabled )
Intel HT Technology ( Enabled )
Active Processor Cores ( All )
QPI Control Settings ( Enabled )
QPI Link Fast Mode ( Enabled )
QPI Frequency Selection ( Auto )
if im doing anything wrong please let me know :)
do you guys consider IBT 10 runs @ max memory ok for stability testing ?
I wouldnt change anything quattro :) looks great
Now that you have it stable, do a little tinkering and see if it helps you push it a little further, or if it allows you to lower the VCore, or if it affects benchmarking results:
for your OC, you can probably switch to "Without VDroop" and run the VCore at 1.265 to 1.275 (put it under load, and see what your voltage rises to after a few minutes, then adjust your VCore to the closest setting to what you see under load). As to your VTT, at that freq, you can probably leave VTT at "Auto", with the Classifieds I've played with, I didn't have to add VTT until I passed 4.2GHz.....especially with the Uncore at "Auto" (its fine there unless you are trying to squeeze every last benchmarking point out of your system).
BRB to "3" (This is found under Memory Settings and improves memory scores)
VTT PWM Frequency to "610"
CPU PWM Frequency to "1210"
CPU Impedance to "Less"
QPI Signal Compensation to "Less"
My classified died today.... FF code.... Tried everything (New Ram, CPU, PSU, GPU) Nothing works... This really sucks.....
Edit:
I powered it down before I went to bed last night and tried to restart it again this morning… For some reason it powers up with the FF code and restarts after a few seconds with the same code…
:up: thanks
thanks again, its actual "Without VDroop" i overlooked the template .
ill try reducing the vtt and test again, im going to OC further after i get the nb/sb block from BitsPower + other components :) .
also the RAM im using is my friend's im ordering DOMINATOR GT, 6GB (3x2GB), 2000MHz, 7-8-7-20 , will it play well with classified ?
Before you RMA the board:
Does the board board power up (fans spinning, etc)?
I had an issue with my Classy a few weeks back, the board would spin up, no post, stuck on FF, and then 75, then alternate between 3-4 error codes......nothing I'd try would work. Contacted the worthless and rude eVGA support. First person told me it was dead, and my fault....definitely shorted out. Second person told me the BIOS was corrupted and I needed to RMA it. Third person told me the chipset was dead, and insisted that I broke it.
Finally, I decided to tinker and after starting the computer, repeatedly pushed the "F1" key........after a few minutes, the board posted and took me into the BIOS, changed everything to default and the board has worked perfectly since then.
Just a thought, may or may not work, but worth a shot.
I love Corsair, great people and great products......but I really like OCZ because their memory is much cheaper and does everything I want. I bought a 12GB kit of OCZ DDR31600 and have overclocked it to 1733 at CAS9 with 1.65V.......that 12GB kit cost me less than that 6GB kit you are considering.
Capper did you feel too much diference between i5 and i7 for games?
To be honest I dont game a lot. but the difference in price between a 1366 and 1156 board, and a i7 and i5 processor could net you a pretty dramatic step up in graphics card.
Its a pretty hot topic, starting from scratch...do you buy an i5 processor and socket 1156 motherboard now at a great price, or do you go the socket 1366 route with a Core i7 920 for now and save up for new INTEL Core i9 processor coming out next year? Its all up to the individual, but if I were building a system right now, I'd buy a Core i5 750 and MSI P55 board, and invest in a good graphics card, then revisit the issue in a year and buy a Core i9 and 1366 board after all the hoopla dies down and the prices drop.
Unfortunately your idea didn’t solve my problem… Everything seems to power up okay i.e. LED’s, GPU and Fans... Hopefully EVGA will RMA this board considering its only 2 months old. I’ve seen listings on other forums stating how great EVAG’s RMA program was… Hopefully this is true…. If not this will be my last EVGA MB….
Yeah, hopefully yours goes smoothly too. I just checked the status and they received it and preparing to ship the replacement.
The traffic here is ridiculous. My wife's parents live in Iruma (right by Yokota), its 46 miles (78km or something) away and it takes over 2 hours to get there!
Thanks! :up:
I cant attest to the actual RMA service, I only shared my experience with their customer service people.
Aside from the solution I posted, have you tried resetting the CMOS and booting? I've had mine refuse to do anything until I reset the CMOS, booted it up, and then changed the CMOS settings after restarting it again.
i dont understand why you guys dont get the advance RMA with shipping option.
It really makes no sense not to if you live in the US.
Why?
1. Advance RMA with shipping options means they send first. Not last.
2. Advance RMA with shipping options also includes a UPS label for you to reattach on the box to mail out.
3. Advance RMA with shipping will get you a "authorized" shipping box for you to send your dead part in.
4. Advance RMA with shipping will not cost you that much more if you were to mail out your eq first though ups.
So Advance RMA = Win if ur in the US.
Good luck with your rma board. I just recieved my 2nd rma board and this one was damaged. Cpu pins were bent up and the board was physically dirty lol. This will be my first and last evga board. My reason for an rma is just one day when I booted up my pc I all the sudden started getting these wierd noises comming from the board. They were almost like the alert beeps. When im in forums and I scroll with my mouse I get them. If my system is just idle I dont. Also when I load up a game it becomes rapid and doesnt stop till I close the game. For like 2 months I had my system at 4.2ghz stable and no issues. Then one day I started having issues and even with my current rma board its still exists. The company isnt giving me solutions either or any idea why I had these issues. They just keep telling me to rma it.
I just got the 760 rev 1.0 from the Egg. Looks like it has been carefully reboxed, returned and resold. The PCB is totally warped and I'm pretty surprised at the cheapish condition of this thing.
Questions -
Don't these usually come in shrink wrapped boxes?
Has anyone recieved a warped to hell PCB?
What's the latest rev of the board (this one is rev 1.0)?
Thanks.
n/m - sent back for replacement. Looking forward to a NEW one. ;)
Sounds like the board I sent back about a month ago. Warped like hell with a hundred grubby paw prints all over the back of it. I expected better quality also, pretty thin pcb. The first one, like the second one I got had no shrink wrapping. Only nylon banding around the box and one clear EVGA sticker. My board rev 1.0
For 450 bucks for this board I had higher expectations about the quality of this board. Seems like they just throw em around and ship em out. I do have to say that performance wise I havent even had 1 single complaint. Let alone even overclock to its full potential. Best way I can describe my problem is to tell you to open a chat window. Just hit the backspace button. Everytime I scroll in a forum its like hitting backspace in the chat window. When I launch a game just hold backspace down. Thats my only problem with this board.
If I watercool the 920 does the classified stock NB cooler work well I do I need to watercool the whole thing?
It works very well. My 920 is watercooled and the nb sits at about 30c idle while the cpu in the mid 30's. I havent seen it hit 40c yet even over hours of gaming. I am still going to watercool mine in the future just for the looks of it all but its not needed IMO.
NB doesnt get hot at all vrm's get a little warm but are fine too
hey guys what do u think is better for games an evga p55 classified or an evga x58 classified?
Dont know much about the p55 class but I gotta say performance wise the x58 class is rock solid. At this point in time I dont know how they can do better. I got zero complaints as far as overclocking, performance, stability. Just solid.
EVGA approved my RMA today…. Wow – I can’t believe they actually charged me $16 in advance to ship me a replacement… Hopefully I receive a fully functional board because this could get expensive fast… I’m thinking about buying a new one and selling the RMA online….