There is a choice between losing 1 day or losing a few years :p:
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There is a choice between losing 1 day or losing a few years :p:
I better lay low then... :D
I think I'll just ride the 24 hours out. :p:
:rehab: :rehab: :rehab: :banana: :banana2: :cheer: :bounce: :YIPPIE: :bounces: :bday2:
FYI - I did send Eddy a thank you, and let him know about my situaction. I did recomend that tracking numbers should be sent with all orders to avoid some frustration at both ends.
The spec drawing i have shows it @ 28.xx x sameQuote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Umm gutted as i hoped it was 40mm. Stay tunned
Man, I hope it didn't get delievered to the wrong house. I had $2000 worth of computer stuff delievered to two houses up the road. The UPS guy is lucky they were honest people, because when I called UPS, they said the next step would be to have the driver show me where the drop was made. Next step after that would be to block the credit card transaction. I was tracking my stuff every day 2x a day. When it said delivered and it wasn't here, I was :banana::banana::banana::banana:in pisst. I hope this doesn't happen to you...
I had a pressure washer sent to me and UPS deliverd it to the wrong address just a few house down. the driver got 6514 and 6504 confused (i think that when a "UPS" driver goes to renew his CDL they should also be tested for dyslexia :zombie: ). anyways, i was at work when i saw it was delivered so durring lunch i ran home and it wasnt there. so as i was driving back to work i spotted it at someone elses house. im sure my neighbors thought that i ran up to someones house and stole their package. Lol
That would suck!! Mine is not showing as delivered, but then again, I don't know if the system get's updated with that info. I think I am safe, and you do have to sign for it, and hopefully would have to show some ID at the post office, even if you had the slip?
Count on an update from me. ;)
To continue the UPS rant: My house is 15, dude delivered to 30!?!Quote:
Originally Posted by Exahertz
I think FedEx won't drop it off. If you're not home when they attempt, you have to go sign for it when you pick it up. UPS & USPS drop it off...Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
I know theres been a lot of question as to what blocks to use on this board. As of right now what is the cheapest set of water blocks for the mosfets that works well? I'm using stock right now and I burned my finger on them at 3.5ghz quad 1.4v and I never like burning my finger on components lol
This is what we have as far as water blocks go for the MOSFET's.
MOSFET - EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a (X38), EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a - Acetal (X38), and Sixdesign sold by MIPS.
MIPS link: http://www.mips-computer.de/
EK's link: http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/izdelki_eng.php
Recommended Authorized EK Dealer: http://www.petrastechshop.com/
Be sure to look at the origional post on page 1. I update it all the time. ;)
It has some pictures too of how the blocks look mounted.
If the blocks turn out to be too pricy, there are some heat sinks made for our board too. :up:
Those waterblocks are a bit too expensive especially because I would need another radiator to make it all work out. Is it true that the thermalright HR-09's are the best air solution? Would they be far better than the stock air?
And I read somewhere I'd need one U and one S of the type 2 is that right?
The type 2 is for sure. The U and the S (Upright and Slant) are just a preferance I think. I see no reason why 2 of the S'es or U's wouldn't fit fine. I don't have anything that they come close to hitting in my TJ09, but I think the decission is baised on your case, and any interfearence that it might create.
As to if they are better than stock, I lean toward yes! When you look around in the air cooling section, Thermalright products in general seem to have an excellant reputation. I believe this also applies to their MOSFET sinks.
If there were built in MOSFET sensors on our mobo's, we could say for sure. I am baising my opinion on ther reputation mostly. They seem to make products that perform with the best of um.
OK Do I really need them though? I guess I paniced when they were burning hot but do they just get that way? It almost seems silly to upgrade the already air cooling, perhaps I'll just save up and buy two blocks and a new radiator
I think the stock MOSFET sink is fine. Many are using it on the board with no issues.
Cheapest option to cool the mosfets would be with Enzotech ramsinks ;)
How much heat does a pair of mosfet blocks throw into the loop? Right now I have my q6600 @3.5 on it and the x38 chipset and my 220 swiftech radiator gets warm on the edges so I know I'm near its capacity. Would two more mosfet blocks make my temps go up a bit? I'm already running 58* load so I think I need another radiator anyway if it'll go up at all
RAD USED________________________________ Approximated Thermal Dissipation.
Swiftech MCR120-QP Single 120mm fan ----------------------- 170w
Swiftech MCR120-QP-K Single 120mm fan --------------------- 170w
Swiftech MCR220-QP Dual 120mm fans ------------------------ 320w
Swiftech MCR220-QP-K Dual 120mm fans ---------------------- 320w
Swiftech MCR320-QP Triple 120mm fans ----------------------- 430w
Swiftech MCR320-QP-K Triple 120mm fans --------------------- 430w
Your OC'ed Q6600 puts out around 200 to 250 watts of heat.
The NB on the Maximus can generate quite a bit of heat too. I really have not heard how many watts of heat it does generate. You may be closer to the RAD's max rateing than you think? Hard to say...
MOSFET blocks are one of the most restricive things you can add into your loop due to their small size. They can hurt your flow.
I personally wouldn't run CPU, NB, and 2 MOSFET blocks using 1 MCR220 if you don't want to move your CPU temps any higher.
Tough call... My :2cents: . Not sure what the more experienced members would say?
Oh wow I guess I am pretty close then.
So if I got a 320 radiator... would cpu, nb, two mosfet's, 220 and 320 be too much for my MCR350 to handle pumping? I really can't afford a second loop right now :( I guess if I can get $200 I'll buy another pump and put my cpu/nb on a 320 and the fets on a 220
I can't advise you on that. I am too new into the water cooling world, and don't know how strong MCR350's are. ;)
FYI - It's 7:00 AM in Ohio. I am awake and waiting for my trek up to my local post office. The doors open at 8:30AM and I will see if my EK package is still in town!
Have fun with your trek :)
Pick when you get back ;)
OK No problemQuote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Hope they have it - sounds like you've got a fun day ahead :)
@dude_500, the MCP350 you have can handle it but let me break some specs down for you. The MCP350 has a discharge of ~92.4 GPH (350 LPH) and the MCP355 has ~ 120 GPH (454 LPH) so for your loop the MCP355 would give you more flow power. I would also add one of those custom tops like the Petra Tech DDCT-01s custom delrin DDC tops which will increase the discharge rate to 4.11 GPM (246.6 GPH) with that pump. I have that pump setup right now and I'm very happy with its preformance on my CPU/GPU loop.
GL m8;)
It was there!! It was there!!
I have installed Eddy's revised top and ring on it, and can confirm it is an exact fit for the Maximus. I took some pictures, but imageshack is giving me a hard time logging in. As soon as I get the issue resolved, I will have some pictures to show exactly how perfect it lines up with the stock NB backplate. :up:
It came with one if the acrylic 'wee to big' tops on it. The D-Tek's allen wrench which came with my nozzle kit fits the EK NB block too. If you lay the old top, overtop the new improved one, you can see the difference in size. It is smaller for sure.
This little sucker is heavey for it's size. I can tell it's up for the job of cooling the NB. The base of the block is larger than the IHS, and lines up exactly with the size of the green perf board that surronds it.
Getting ready to leak test before I put it on the board... :up:
I can also confirm that it makes no difference as to the IN and OUT barb on this block. Users choice! The EK supplied instructions have that info contained in them.
Good News. i guess its crunch time for you :up:
Congrats buddy! We're happy for you.
ugh. Been toiling over my build since late November, and now I think I'm moving on to my 5th mobo. I've been running into problems with the Maximus ever since I got it 'stable' experiencing periodic reboots. Couldn't quite nail it down, as my temps seemed fine (cpu/gpu) started out thinking it was OS corruption with the RAID/OC combo (No OC during install), then ran a whole battery of tests on the mem, same with the CPU, nothing there. After looking around I found out about the issue with the NB temp. and realized that is more than likely the culprit. Cold boot idle on the NB will creep up from 31 to 47-51, after load it would hit 57, i didn't push it into a reboot while logging the temp under everest because I ran out of time and had an early morning meeting. So i have no other logs. Went to work, ordered some Thermalright coolers so I could rip out the ROG heat pipe. Came home and the box is stuck in a continuous reboot. Powers on for about 5-7 seconds then turns itself off, then tries again 5 seconds later (rinse / repeat). (LCD stuck at CPU INIT) This is non-stop as long as the PSU has power. All of my OC's were turned off when I left it, because I had them off during my troubleshooting. Tried: resetting CMOS, removing battery, removing RAM, GPU, HD/CD, etc. Can anyone give me a reason why this board isn't dead? Anyone have anything similar? I'm about two days away from calling Maingear and saying 'feck it' and parting it out on ebay. I've been building my own systems since 1991 and this is *FAR* and away my most problematic build evar. Specs below. TIA.
Asus Maximus Formula 0907
Q6600 - GO
2GB Corsair Dominator 8500
2 - ATi 3870s
2 - Raptor 150 RAID0 (Vista)
1 - Raptor 74 (Linux)
1 - Segate 1TB (Filestore)
2 - LiteOn DVD-R
Coolermaster Cosmos
Thermaltake Toughpower 1200
Cooling:
Swiftech Apogee GTX (Copper Top)
Swiftech MCW60 GPU Blocks
Thermochill PA120.2
Thermochill PA120.1
Alphacool Laing DDC-Pump 12V Pro Water Tank
Tygon 1/2" Tubing
Swiftech Microres
(Loop: DDC > 120.2 > 120.1 > CPU > GPU > GPU)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exahertz
Thanks guy's!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedda
Leak test is under way. No issues so far. :up:
I have both the D-Tek and the EK NB hooked up to the Keg.
My Pro mount kit should arrive soon from Petras. I do realize that I will have to leak test again, after taking the D-Tek apart, and installing the Pro mount kit.
NB backplate modification stage is engageing now to accommodate for the larger mounting hardware.
One thing I find interesting. As some micro bubbles leave the D-Tek block, they are evenly dispersed in the water. They enter the EK block, and apon exiting, you notice a very distinct spatial pattern that extended about 2 to 3 feet in my tubing.
I don't know if or what that says about the EK block, but it may suggest that the EK excels at creating turbulence?
i have the same thing in my setup and it will go away but yes there is a turbulence effect in the tubes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Way to go Talonman, looks like the ball is starting to roll.:up:
Now we demand pics!!! We Want Pics! We Want Pics! We Want Pics!:D :D
@tgR, have you tried setting it up with out raid? Also have you tried posting at the Asus Maximus Formula *Part 2* *Help / Overclocking / Guide* or ASUS Maximus Formula SE threads, their more system trouble shooters on those threads.
Oh and welcome to the forum.:)
Yay partys @ Talonman's tonight then, get on!
Thanks Pete, I am a happy camper. Foward progress is going to be made...:up:
No problem on the pictures buddy!! I like doing that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooby
OK, Imageshack responding again.
Pic to show the EK and stock backplate:
It lines up just right. Good job Eddy.
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/653/pic097mc7.jpg
One shot from above:
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/892/pic098wu0.jpg
Bottom of the blocks.
FYI - That's just the paper towl's reflection in the lower corner. I can assure you all I see is a shiny base.
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/1177/pic099wh1.jpg
Side shot:
Lot's of Copper... :up:
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/5193/pic100mc7.jpg
I think this is going to work well, my autimin is noticeably cooler... :p:
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/4556/pic101na1.jpg
what did you do to the stock nb backplate to make it work with the EK block??
Glad to hear you got them finally :)
Party time indeed :YIPPIE: :bday2:
Thanks Xilikon.... :guitar:Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
One of my wild friends stopped by.... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by CCC
I am getting back to work now... :clap:
I keep moving the tubing around, trying to be border-line harsh with it. Not a drop leaked so far...
BTW - The Fusion has already been leak tested once and passed. I cleaned the surface and am protecting it now. Normally I wouldn't leak test with a block wrapped in plastic, just for the record. :)
Neither hose or clamps have been removed from the first test with the D-Tek. The tubing with the bend has already been held in that position for days by the 2 zip ties. When I go to mount it on the mobo, it should be well adjusted to the idea that this is the way I just normally bend! I didn't want it kicking like a mule during the block install.
In the EK instructions it states, "This product is intended for expert users", so if I get this installed correctly, do I get official expert status? :rofl: :ROTF: :rofl: :p:
I knocked out those inserts by hammering them into a peice of wood, then i had to reem out the holes a little so the mounting hardware from EK would slide through it. just be sure to put a plastic washer inbetween the backplate and the mobo.Quote:
Originally Posted by CCC
Anyone know where I can get a flow meter that fits 1/2"ID tubes? I have been looking around and the ones I did fine were all out of stock.
Thanks.
What are you using on your mosfets talonman? Congrats on the long-awaited block :)
Thanks dude, take a look at page 8 in this thread for how my MOSFET situaction worked out.
Preping the stock backplate wen't well. I gave the one corner a small tap after taking the rubber washers off, and it suffered a small impact wound. I then changed my plan to using beefy side cutters and snipped the other side of the rivet off as close to the backplate as I could. It gives you a good spot for the drill bit to spin on.
I drilled from the side that makes contact with the motherboard, into the backplate with a block of wood behind it. I used that drill bit in the picture, but I don't know what size it is. The rivet just pops out the other side like butter during the process.
I did a newbie mistake and had my clamps in the way for the bolts to go through the EK block. I loosened them and made an adjustment withought spilling a drop.
The longer bolt in the EK block is one of the 4 that come standard with the NB block. I also ordered the a general hardware mounting kit from EK too, and it's the shorter one.
I will be using the 4 longer supplied bolts when mounting the block.
http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/9720/pic103lm5.jpg
Here is the back still looking like new!
I checked all 4 holes to insure the bolt would fit.
http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/3913/pic102ko2.jpg
I like the looks of those thick blocks. They look 2x as thick as MCW30's! Does the CPU block come with a backing plate? Are you WC'ing just the CPU & NB? Hope it works well for you. When are you gonna have some #'s for us?
lol.... The D-Tek CPU Block does not come standard with a backplate. I wish it did... The D-Tek Pro-mount kit, I have in route to my house will. :)
For a while I think it will only be CPU and the NB. It will be nice to get some baseline numbers for me, before I add 1 GPU into my loop. Then I will be able to see how much my temps move. Hopefully none. :D
My GPU purchase will be within the next month. nVidia 8600GT until then, that I will harvest out of my Pavilion.
I think the thick Coper Rocks too! Looks like the D-Tek's thickness, and that's a winner... :up:
And the foot print of the coper base is about the size of the green perf board that the IHS rests on. I like the extra size myself, and view that as a positive. Not too big, but not too little either.
I am considering preparing the base of the blocks as if I was using Arctic Silver Ceramic, even though it's going to be MX-2.
You know how on the AS site when using Ceramic, they say you can apply some to the base of the block, then buff it back off with a lint free cloth. The MX-2 sight has no such recomendation.
I was thinking that Arctic Silver Ceramic, and MX-2 are similar products. What would be good for one, might be good for the other?
What do you guy's think about treating the base of the blocks to some MX-2, then buffing it back off?
One more picture with the moded stock backplate on. I intend to put the mobo between the black and green washers.
There are metal washers next to the nuts on all 4 bolts. You cant see them in the picture.
Looks to me like it should work well? :D
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/2168/pic104rt4.jpg
Although you might think you don't want to use the thick black stock washers, when you attach the backplate to the mobo, you can see why ASUS thought a little extra height wasen't a bad thing here. There are some small components located under the backplate, that I'm guessing you wouldn't want to put excessive pressure on.
Note: I didn't have the nuts tightened up yet in this picture. The rubber washers all snugged up nice to the mobo after they were.
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/6577/pic105zf2.jpg
Here is the bolts supplied by EK with the block. I couldn't be more pleased with the fit. :woot:
The small metal washers are in there too. :up:
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/2986/pic106sn4.jpg
Looks really good, as always EK = quality.
I'm using MX-2 on both the NB and SB and didn't have to do any apply/buff-off stuff and I think you wouldn't have too either. My contacts are solid, during load and stress testing I can fell the heat being tranfered through my Thermalright HR-05s and with the fans dialed in it has been very good.
What GPU are you going for?
I want a nVidia 9800GTX.
On the AS Céramique instructions, look on page 3 "Heatsink Preparation" and "Tinting Heatsink with Céramique:".
http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appi..._quad_wcap.pdf
The stuff I'm proposing to tint the blocks with would be MX-2, insted of using the AS Céramique. :)
This sentence is what catches my attention: "The discoloring you see is Céramique inside the microscopic valleys of the heatsink".
I was thinking mabey some MX-2 in the microscopic valleys of the blocks faces, might be a good thing?
I would still apply the MX-2 to the NB chip, when I go to install the block.
Update: I just started a thread about it to fish for more responces on the matter. ;)
Leak test is comming up on about 21 hours. Still nothing but drysville to report. :clap:
The NB block appears to hold water. :up:
Its good to see you finally got your order in :up: . I hope you enjoy putting it all together.
I am for sure! Thanks Darkatom.
Hey Talonman, When do you expect you'll be to the point that your loading an OS?
Soon ... I know I will be needing some help in that phase too.
D-Tek Pro mount in hand... letting it meet the FuZion right now.
OK, The Pro mount has been installed. Leak test under way...
My new supplies....
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/1624/pic107kz8.jpg
Note my tornado in the tube. With time it did go away. ;)
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/3924/pic108og8.jpg
looks good! the Fuzion almost look like its lapped in the second pic. so i take it you have already added the quad nozzel kit and everything. did the nozzel kit with the o-ring thats included add any bow to the Fuzion?
Yes, the Quad split nozzle is installed. I can't say for sure on if the gasket added any more to the stock bowing? It isn't a real thick gasket...
I did check out my D-Tek cooling pins while I had the block apart. Still looks like new.
I have both blocks secured to the mobo, with some MX-2 used as my TIM.
On the Pro-Mount, the mounting bolts stop themselves from being overtightened.
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/4537/pic109ow9.jpg
The big slab of unapoligetic copper, is now in direct contact with my NB's IHS! Cool baby cool... :cool:
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/7696/pic110he7.jpg
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/402/pic112yz4.jpg
Lot's of room for R68 coils around the CPU, to catch some good air:
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/1913/pic113nk4.jpg
The backplates are looking good too: :up:
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/3955/pic111on4.jpg
The excitement is building. The water blocks both seem to be doing fine... :D
Getting real close to hitting this thing with power for the first time. :clap: :up:
I took my quick-disconnects off, and drained that section of the loop that goes to the mobo.
Ran the hose out the back of the tray. I did make sure when it went through the back, it was the way it naturally wanted to go. I didn't want any funky 'twisting' pressure on the fittings of the blocks.
Cutt two fresh ends off of the tubing out the back, and made them the same length. Slid the disconnects back on, and I was off and running again...
One thing I just realized how handy it is to burp my blocks running the Keg. I can pick my tray up and spin it around, before I ever even slide it into the back of my case. :up:
I also was able to keep my blocks the lowest thing in the loop, during the burping stage the entire time. :up:
I will know for 100% sure, when I slide the mobo in, there will be no large air pockets in my blocks. :D
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/6571/pic115ee2.jpg
I slid my rig, back into it's home. It fit just like it remembered. :up:
Trying to figure out what slot I won't be using on the Maximus, to install my external power outlet... :shrug:
I am currently thinking the white mini slot directly under the word Maximus.
Mabey the very bottom one to hide the wire better?
Any opinions?
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/6720/pic116xf9.jpg
Finally..!! :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Happy to see the bend from the Fuzion to S-Max is possible with 1/2". I wasn't sure the bend would go, so I went with Thermalrights..
So, what temps do you get on NB (& SB) when the case is closed?
My sollution:
http://aycu29.webshots.com/image/426...1381704_rs.jpg
Sweet looking system!
Don't give me too much credit for having a running system yet...
I still need to install my OS and do more reading on how to set my RADE up. ;)
Power outlet for the Keg has been installed. I used the spot for the mini slot under the work Maximus, and made a custom length power cable to reach some power in my case. It worked out well, and the wire is mostly hid too.
I guess I need to flash to 9.07 ...
I still need to get things straight in my head as to what I need to do when hit the power button. I have never flashed a BIOS, nor built a system up from parts before, so temps may not come as fast as we would both like. :)
:shocked: now thats a beauty! looking great Talon! :clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
what are you using that three-way molex connector bracket on the bottom for?
I am not sure I see a three way..?? :)
I am stuck trying to get my OS installed, and RAID configured..
I am monitoring this thread for some kind sole to throw me a bone....
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=166867&page=3
Please come and help. I can't get any further.
Seek stability first. What temps are showing in bios, as your symptoms suggest issues?
I wonder if your cpu block is down tight enough.
that thing on the bottom of the picture with the red black yellow and green wires???Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Thiking of going noth south vga with compression fittings this time.
from frozencpu i got the following
G 1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD Compression Fitting - (1/8" Walled Tubing)
Danger Den 8800GTX Video Card Liquid Cooling Block (DD - 8800 GTX / 8800 Ultra)
ex-blc-395
EK Asus X38 Chipset Motherboard Mosfet Block - Acetal - (EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a-x38-Acetal) x2 mosfet
ex-blc-381
Ek ASUS 3 Intel Northbridge / Southbridge Chipset Block - Acetal - (EK-NB/SB ASUS 3 Acetal) 2x one for the nothbridge and the southbridge.
I check the 1st page and appears this is the the way.
just to double check the material code with you guys,,,thanks
Figured i would post a couple of pics of the new rig. i havent finished cleaning up the wiring yet nor have i finished with the lighting but i figured yall might want to take a look
done benching for now cause i want to play some games but finished up at qx9650@4455mhz(405*11), maximus formula, 8800gts(g92) (850/2067/2200)-vgpu 1.35v -- WinXP
'06 -- 18560
EK Supreme on QX9650
EK fullcover on 8800gts (g92)
EK NB block
EK Asus 3a 2 x mosfet blocks
loop 1 --> cpu & nb -- 120.3 rad
loop 2 --> vc and both mosfets -- swifty MCR220 rad
Dual bay res with 4 barbs so both loops in 1 res
http://ubc_ccc.home.comcast.net/H20 ...ture 004-1.JPG
http://ubc_ccc.home.comcast.net/H20 ...ture 005-1.JPG
http://ubc_ccc.home.comcast.net/H20 ...ture 006-1.JPG
Wow! Impressive... :up:
Has the look of a system that demands respect! ;)
Talonman: What's the status of your system at this time? Did you manage to resolve all the issues you were having?
Looking at the other thread, it seems that it's working but only with 1 RAM module.
Regarding your questions on the other thread:
write back cache: I believe that this can only be used with RAID5 (according to the help for the Intel Matrix Storage Manager).
HDTach for Vista: have you tried setting the compatibility mode for the program. The forums at SimpliSoftware suggest that it should work when run in compatibility mode for WinXP.
Thanks for the info. Status is up and running. I am on it now! :)
So no write back cash to select for me and RAID0, I'm good with that. I just didn't want to miss out on a good performance setting. :)
I havent yet had 1 system stability issue ever since I am running on my single 2GB module. The bad one has been in the box for over 30 days, only used for about an hour, is this something I could RMA or am I probably SOL? :)
Baught from NewEgg. I can say with a clean spirit that I never OC'ed it, or over volted it other than what the Maximus might have added to it's 1.8v default BIOS setting. The ram was also rated at 1.8v's too.
Should have been a good match...
I haven't messed with compatibility mode for WinXP yet. I will have to look into that.
I would expect it to still be in warranty with Corsair. However, you may need to return both modules as they are sold as a matched pair. I'd contact Corsair and ask. At worst, they can only say 'no' :D
I will do so. I have my two 1GB modules in my HP I could take out for a spin if I had to...
My first officail baseline numbers! :)
Q6600 GO, stock speed of 2.4GHz
I used the newest version of OCCT, set it for 1hour Mixte test.
Room temp was 62.0F
Idle Temps ------ 30min IN ----- Final Temp
MB - 25C ----------- 25C ------------- 25C
CPU - 7C ----------- 15C ------------- 15C
Core1 - 20C -------- 28C ------------- 28C
Core2 - 20C -------- 27C ------------- 27C
Core3 - 15C -------- 24C ------------- 24C
Core4 - 21C -------- 30C ------------- 30C
NB - 21C ----------- 22C ------------- 22C
SB - 26C ----------- 26C ------------- 26C
Thoughts:
1) On my cpu, I never saw 31C ever display even once. My feeling is that is pritty darn good so far... The odd consistant low reading on core3 I tend not to believe, and go with the others. I just think it reads low?
2) NB at idle is good, and it hardly ever climbed much higher with OCCT Mixed running for 1 hour. If about 22C is going to be my worst temp, I should be golden! :)
3) My fan and sink seem to be working well for my SB... Temp did not change from idle to load at all. What temp does your SB hang at? :)
1 Screen shot of OCCT 1hr mixed testing: Taken about 9 minutes before reaching a successful completion.
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/3021/basetestye9.jpg
OP has been updated! ;)
Talonman --------- 1.38v ------ 22°C --occt at 1hr--- Q6600 GO @ 2.4GHz --------- EK S-MAX Acetal
Looking good :up:
Those temps look nice, but not so sure about your ambient - don't you feel cold in that room :p:. It's winter here but I don't like my house colder than 20C (68F).
Do you know the VID for that CPU? (CoreTemp will show the VID if Everest doesn't). Lower VIDs generally correspond to better potential overclocks, although it's not guaranteed.
Time to push that sucker and see what it's capable of?
Looking great. Good job there.. Temps looks goodQuote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Good one mate!
Thank's Guy's...
This cold basement was built in 1917, and directly behind that old yellow'ish white wall, is a 5,000 gallon sistren that catches water off the roof. We use it for washing the cars, and watering the garden.
We do have a brand new well drilled in 2001 for our main water supply, the 5,000 gallons is just for hobbies. ;)
Anyway, that wall is the coldest in the house. Super for putting some good numbers on the board! I think the Keg likes it?
It can get in the 50's down here on a good cold day with no problem! :)
I do plan on OC'ing my system soon. I have to read a bit more first. Still can't find the memory voltage adjustment in the BIOS. :)
Some pictures from today. I did pop my nVidia 8600GT in, until I am ready to buy my GPU.
System next to the Keg:
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/6796/pic142so0.jpg
Lights off!:
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/1107/pic141gn9.jpg
Lights on:
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/5048/pic140ch6.jpg
See Jimi on the wall there.
Saw him live in a park in London when I was about 13. All I really remember was these incredible sounds as he did at least a half hour solo and his fingers, like two big black spiders running up and down the neck.
The Banner at Woodstock remains one of the truly great performance arts pieces of the 20th century.
EddieV, Vale etc all great guitarists but not in that class. Todd Rundgren has a small piece of it, but JimiH could paint in sound
Oh yeah. Box looks great!
But 16°C :shocked:
Its 10AM, raining outside and ambient is 31°C :rofl:
Finally, looks awsome taloman ! What happend to the blue dye you used before ? And why isnt that puppy running at 4.0ghz yet ;) .
I mixed some red with it! :)
Looking at Everest, and selecting the CPU, it has Core Voltage currently at 1.288V. It that the same as VID?Quote:
Originally Posted by ~aoe~
I am looking for some numbers to plug into my BIOS to try my first OC. 3.8Ghz would be nice I would think? . I am looking for a dude runiing vista ultimate, Q6600 GO, 907 BIOS, and listed all his settings. :)
FYI - I did do another hour run of OCCT just to make sure my SB temp probe works.
I am happy to say that it does, and managed to run my SB temp all the way up to 27C.
It arrived minutes before this run hour run completed. PowerBridge cooling rocks! ;)
I am out of the RAID club too. A Raptor died on me. No matter what power, or SATA cable you give it, BIOS never sees it. My system crashed, had to start from scratch.
Life span was 1 day... R.I.P.
I am happy with my water cooling setup!! :cheer: :rehab:
Cool temps at stock speed verified, System OC phase engage!
:p:
Here you go Talonman - 3.825 MHz (9 x 425) OCCt Stable settings:
Extreme Tweaker
Ai Overclock Tuner : Manual
OC From CPU Level Up : Auto
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting : 9
FSB Frequency : 425
FSB Strap to North Bridge : 333
PCI-E Frequency: 110
DRAM Frequency: DDR2-1020MHz
DRAM Command Rate : 2T
DRAM Timing Control: Manual
CAS# Latency : 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay : 5
RAS# Precharge : 5
RAS# ActivateTime : 15
RAS# to RAS# Delay : Auto
Row Refresh Cycle Time : Auto
Write Recovery Time :
Read to Precharge Time : Auto
Read to Write Delay (S/D) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (S) : Auto
Read to Read Delay (D) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (S) : Auto
Write to Write Delay (D) : Auto
DRAM Static Read Control: Disabled
Ai Clock Twister : Auto
Transaction Booster : Auto
CPU Voltage : 1.475 (BIOS)
CPU PLL Voltage : 1.50 (BIOS)
North Bridge Voltage : 1.57 (BIOS)
DRAM Voltage : 1.90(BIOS)
FSB Termination Voltage : 1.44 (BIOS)
South Bridge Voltage : 1.05 (BIOS)
Loadline Calibration : Enabled
CPU GTL Reference : 0.63x
North Bridge GTL Reference : 0.67x
DDR2 Channel A REF Voltage : DDR2_REF
DDR2 Channel B REF Voltage : DDR2_REF
DDR2 Controller REF Voltage : DDR2_REF
SB 1.5V Voltage : 1.50 (BIOS)
NB LED Selection : NB Volt
SB LED Selection : SB Volt
CPU LED Selection : CPU VOlt
Voltiminder LED :
CPU Spread Spectrum : Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum : Disabled
Advanced CPU Configuration
CPU Ratio Control : Manual
- Ratio CMOS Setting : 9
C1E Suppport : Disabled
CPU TM Function : Disabled
Vanderpool Technology : Disabled
Execute Disable Bit : Disabled
Max CPUID Value Limit : Disabled
USB Configuration
USB Functions: Enabled
Legacy USB Support : Disabled
Hope it will help you get to the point where I managed to get.
Thanks, I will do that..
I am looking at this:
Members reported loaded NB temp's in the 'Aftermarket Block Club':
ABC Member ---- NB volts -- NB Loaded ------------------- CPU --------------- NB Block
Talonman --------- 1.38v ------ 22°C --occt at 1hr--- Q6600 GO @ 2.4GHz ------ EK S-MAX Acetal
Members reported loaded NB temp's using the stock 'Republic of Gamers' cooling:
ROG Member ----- NB volts -- NB Loaded -------------------------- CPU ------------------
bill d ------------- 1.30v ------ 34°C ------------------------------ Q6600 @ 2.4GHz
and thinking that it is a good example of what the EK -vs- the stock NB block would look like in most cases? :)
I would probably now, have to whipp mine like a dog to make it hit 34°C.. ;) (Just kidding, animal lover!)
Heck, I even bet our voltage was the same too. I used Everest, not the BIOS. I bet me and bill d both still had it set to default during our testing...
A 12°C difference under load is pritty darn good. :up:
The aftermarket block option holds some merit!
That has been installed, and is my external power outlet for the Keg.Quote:
Originally Posted by Exahertz
It now runs off the PC's 1000W supply too. :)
I have made an inquire to the shop i got my gear Vcore.dk
for the following
http://www.mips-computer.de/sg_WATER...NBOARDSETS.htm
1 x MCH034 Northbridge Freezer
1 x MCH003 Southbridge Freezer
2 x MCH150 Mosfet Freezer
parts
I cant see anyone else having them. It might be a long shot as i dont speak german and have trouble ordering from the the mips site directly. so from stockholm will order via denmark parts made in germany!! that will be fun!!
In the mean time if anyoneelse has a kit built with them pls by all means post some intel on the subject.
and since iam on the path to wc the rest i thought give it a try with my bfg 88gtx oc, but will have to order the DD kit from the states as i think, cant be found locally. nearest place is U.K
anyone got the stock heatpipe with the waterblock to an asus maximus extreme se i can have/buy?
I would like to see you get your hands on a set. It would be good to know how good of a job they do. I think they look neet as heck! Kinda high tech'ish. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_rtr
I can't help it. I am just so proud of my waterblocks temps, along with the Keg! I know I haven't OC'ed yet, but still.... Havent seen 31C on any core yet. I tried Prime, and set it up as harsh as I could... still no 31C. :D
This is still steller temps for running stock, correct? The NB still is topping out at 22C too. ;)
Edited: deleted the picture link. Was not working any more, and it slowed down this page from loading...
Which do you prefer to stress test with, prime or occt ?
very nice
I don't see a big difference myself, but I read this post, and it sounds like Prime95 is harder on the CPU? My temp's didn't seem to vary much....
I did do another type of Prime95 run, and hit 31C now, but in doing so my NB was holding steady at 21C. It dropped another C! :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by mcoffey
I also seem to notice my 1 low core temp is getting closer to the others. It is starting to look more like a nice tight little group.
Go ProMount....
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/3315/run2px5.jpg
That is just too good of a result. Was going to try the stock Fuzzion block for awhile, but you have convinced me to change everything on the first build.Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
What is your plan going to be now? :)
I am happy for sure!! :p:
Following what you did without the Keg for now as have modded a case to put the Thermochill PA120.3 inside the case top. But if the temps don't come close to yours will look at the keg.Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Which one is better for NB THERMALRIGHT HR-05 SLI or some waterblock? Because temp on SB/NB is iddle 49/51 burn 56/57. I have waterblock for SB, but when i remove orginal passive i must put some cooler on NB and i dont know which one. Pleas help my.THX
Between the THERMALRIGHT HR-05, and a waterblock made for the NB, I think the waterblock would give you lower temps. The few that are actually made for the Maximus SE are listed on page 1 in this thread. ;)
I have a very high pitched low amplitude sound coming from inside my case that i cant locate and I never noticed until after installing the EK blocks. It’s a constant sound around 10Khz and I only notice the sound when I am using the Crysis Sandbox2 editor. Furthermore, (and only under the same circumstances) I hear junk coming through my speakers that seems to change depending on what being displayed in the 3D view. The two sounds don’t seem to correlate as one is constant and high pitched and the other changes and kind of sounds like the sound a cell phone makes when it interferes with a badly shielded amplifier. but let me inphasize that neither sound is not very loud.
I kind of wonder if the high pitched sound is from my PSU and that sound in my speakers is because im OC'ing...?
BTW Talonman, very nice temps for a 65nm cpu!
Thanks buddy. :)
Not sure what to think about your sound...
Hi i have about the same ONLY when i start CRYSIS.Quote:
Originally Posted by Exahertz
- "Furthermore, (and only under the same circumstances) I hear junk coming through my speakers that seems to change depending on what being displayed in the 3D view"
same here during the load screen on crysis.
Started a thread at ASUS Site for The Sixdesign blocks, sold by MIPS
http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...000&board_id=1
&model=Maximus%20Formula&SLanguage=en-us
Iam going to get them and see what they all about.
Will make a worklog so if you want me to test something pls let me know before i start.
Have not ordered them yet (witing for the shop to reply if they can get them for me)
And this http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/produc...roducts_id=149Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
do you think its ok for NB?
Just got something here. When the SB wc blocks are installed would not that come in the way of the VGA card.
for example a non wc 8800gtx will come quite close to the barbs.
Since i dont have one but planning to get one, can any one put some light into this? will there be enough clearance for the tubes to fit`?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exahertz
The high pitched noise coming from your PC is most likely your 8800GTX. Many of the 8800 cards make a high pitched sound when in 3d mode, and the pitch and loudness will vary with what's being displayed, and how many frames per second you're getting. The Crysis intro does this to me, and plenty of others partly because how high your fps is during it. You can recreate the noise using rthdribl or ATITool.Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_rtr
Noted, thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by Raxxath
If your talking for a Maximus, at EK it is this one: EK-NB S-MAXQuote:
Originally Posted by mufty
http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/produc...roducts_id=222
or this one, the one I ordered with 1/2" fittings: EK-NB S-MAX Acetal
http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/produc...roducts_id=223
One other thought.Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_rtr
If you can't convince yourself it's your GPU, I believe the things around your CPU marked R68 are coils... If so, it is not too hard to imagine under stress, a coil could be capable of producing an oscillation?
Just a thought. :)
is there a full ek set for the maximus yet?
vrm's nb sb?
Yeah mate, check first post ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by disruptfam