Anyone using the E version of this board with a q6600? If so what's your max FSB on a 8 and 9x multi.
My BX2 has me stuck on a 9x multi and at a max FSB of 390.
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Anyone using the E version of this board with a q6600? If so what's your max FSB on a 8 and 9x multi.
My BX2 has me stuck on a 9x multi and at a max FSB of 390.
I wont hold my breathe. Iam starting to think its hardware based. MAybe if they realease a revision board sometime in the future. Well very cool anyway man, i was thinking of doing the same thing, but i had trouble finding the .tw email for technical! IF enough people argue for it, maybe it will come if its just a simple bios fix
Ace: Thank you very much for the feedback and the pics. Since I only have the one 40 x 20 mm fan, I think I'm going to pick up a few assorted 40mm varieties to be able to play around with them. I just don't want them to be too noisy. As small fans have that tendency. I'll see what they have at Sidewindercomputers , since they have those extra fan clips for the TR 120 Ex there. And I want to pick up an extra set of those to test out a push - pull on the TR 120 Ex. Not sure about going that route or not (I'll see how I am on space in the case).
Anyway, most of the 40mm fans seem to be in the 4.5 cfm to 9 cfm range (although, the 9 cfm's seem to be either very thick or very loud). I am hoping that the 4.5 cfm range will be enough though. If I can run 3.4 ~ 3.6 ghz on my Quad 24/7 with good temps, I'll be happy... I think :) You know how it goes when one OCs --- always want that little be extra :D
BTW: I like the painters tape on the sides of the TR 120 :cool: :up: Gives it a nice & clean look too. What 120 x 38 fans are you using? Panaflow M1's?
Hey ... glad you recovered from that little scare you had with the bios flash. Man, last time I had to deal with that was on an Abit NF7. Had to order a spare bios chip.
I'll post some results after everything comes in and I get it set up.
Thanks Again :cool:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
it won't matter if you do the mod or do not...the reading is going to be the same.
my uguru right now fluctuates between 1.46v and 1.48v...it displays only those two values...what i am saying, the upper value, 1.48v, is the actual vcore value going to the processor.
what vdrop mod does is almost zero the difference between the bios vcore setting and the actual vcore in idle and under load....Uguru still reads the vcore value correctly...just remember, whatever your uguru vcore reading tops off at, that is the actual vcore going to the processor, approximately plus or minus 0.005v.
here are two pictures showing one of the locations where you can measure vcore.
as you can see, right above the PWM heatsink
here's a better angle shot
http://www.johnshim.com/forums/bleed...IMG_3513ss.JPG
Thank you Ace-a-Rue and shimmishim
Will measure the board when I get home. If the voltage is true than I might see what more I can do. I made a deal that 1.45 real would be my stopping point. I'm at 3.4ghz right now. :cool:
I´m testing vcore at 1,3625 and Uguru showing 1,34 . Real vcore 1,33 idle and 1,30 load running orthos
I managed to put TRUE+21F/HR-05+40mm fan/HR-05 SLI/HR-03 PLUS+21F/Stock PWM cooler + 40mm fan/ocz mem cooler all on this mobo
everything fits together perfectly (the only thing is my G0 Q6600 has the highest vid I've seen on the net——1.3125v)
thought I should post a couple of pics here
http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/3...0064ul9.th.jpg
http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/9...0052xt3.th.jpg
here's 3.9Ghz doing everest stability run...i jumped up to the 12.B01 beta bios...that was nerve racking to do the flash...BUT...i added the "F" and "QI" switches just to make sure!:)...the B01 beta is probably a tiny bit better for my Q6600 than the official 11 bios.
the only thing, i will probably return to 3.84Ghz since the extra 60Mhz has to have a quantum jump in vcore, MCH, CPU VTT and ICHIO 1.5v...need all those voltages to be in the high end...but, not for 3.84Ghz!
The image below is what the options are for the latest Intel 7.6 raid driver.
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/4912/img2946uu1.jpg
I tried the first and last option, the first one causes a blue screen. The last one is what I used for the first time. (no luck)
I then tried the drivers from the CD. No luck there. :(
Are there any BIOS options that I am missing?
Well it is the last one. try a new disk/disc and a new download of the drivers.
Ace-a-Rue:
Thanks for the heat pipe mod… No matter where I clocked this *itch, after a few hours weird stuff happened… Blue screens, slow HD access, wireless *hit acting strange...
Pulled the board and bolted the pipe down with Ceramique and all the crap disappeared…
Love the board… You’d think Abit would have done this right from the get go…
Regards-
I just ordered the Pro model for $157 after rebate. Which bios should I look for on this model? Anything else I should look out for before installing it? Is the soft pencil vmod available instead of the hardmod? I plan on ordering the Thermal Padding from Petra's since it looks like the foamy type for the pwm mosfets.
just use the bios 11 official. if you want the latest there is a beta 12 (which appears to have tightened the latency on the NB at any given speed)...
as for a pencil mod... nope, i don't think so.... you're gonna have to hard mod it
Hey folks, I know this is more about the mod than the board but I am in need of the Vdroop mod in a bad way, I have been working on my soldering skills and I think I have it down pretty well, Please let me know what you think and if I need to improve on anything before I do the board.
Edit: Ignore the type of wire, this is just some junk I had laying around to get some iron time in, I am going to use better wire for the mod.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...Picture001.jpg
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...Picture003.jpg
geez...looks darn good!...can i send you my board after you do yours and report back here on whether you were successful!?:D
sounds GREAT!...could of been a heat problem with the SB...i found my SB heatsink only touching half of the chipset...it does get very warm to the touch even after remounting it properly....also, if you have any future problems think about cranking up your ICHIO 1.5v first and then your ICH 1.05v second...
Thanks Ace, the key is the flux, the stuff I have is plumbers flux and it is NON conductive and it woks like a champ, I use the toothpick to apply a dab to the area I am going to solder, a little on the wire and then it only takes about .003 seconds with the iron on the joint, I havent cooked anything yet and this poor old modem looks like the Borg got ahold of it lol.
I am going to pick up a roll of small wire today, the 24-4 I have been working with is far too large and I am going to pick up a couple more 1k variable resistors while I am out.
I will have this done this after noon so I will let you know how it goes.
cool!:up: