very wrong mate you can pass linx easy on sandy but NOT primeQuote:
Originally Posted by nijel
Printable View
very wrong mate you can pass linx easy on sandy but NOT primeQuote:
Originally Posted by nijel
Tried but dont think it helps. Normally i will touch vtt when im changing new ram.Quote:
Originally Posted by acebmxer
Im using the version. Custom blend min fft 128 3100mb which will stress most of ram amount.Quote:
Originally Posted by stasio
Yes for sure, since extra threads hv to run on the same core amount. Making each core overloaded.Quote:
Originally Posted by nijel
Whatever works for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
Never had problems with prime if I pass 25 LinX AVX 4 threads max ram first.
LinX AVX 4 threads catches low Vcore on 2600K 4c/8t instantly, BSODs or errors 5 runs max.
Same thing for idle/low load Vcore with LinX AVX 1 thread. Get that stable as well and you never get idle BSOD for 24/7 system with DVID.
I can pass both very easily:DQuote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
but really running linx with 4 threads and SP1 on w7 is very stressful and even the newest version of prime does not raise temps or wattage as high as running linx with 4 threads selected and not 8
sergio its complicated only if your starting new in the new bios .. . but tomorrow if you show me your f8f settings ill make them work in new bios :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by andressergio
thanks bud :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by the_real_7
I agree that linx is way more stressful a , but prime proves long hour stability cause you can run it longer without degrade and ive hardly ever seen people these days who pass 20 linx ever pass prime 6 hours or more and also i can show you , that linx will pass easly with less volts as prime need more volts . . but its all to the user , if your a gamer and bencher linx is more than fine , but if your like me a heavy decoder multitasker prime is the best stillQuote:
Originally Posted by l0ud_sil3nc3
Hey guys, i'm seeking guidance with some USB3 fun.
So i have P67A-UD7-B3 /w F3 BIOS & Win 7 64bits
I picked up a USB 3 hub :
D-Link DUB-1340 (http://www.dlink.co.uk/cs/Satellite?...GB%2FDLWrapper)
It seems there is no pilot for this piece of hardware and it's plug&play.
When I plug it, on whichever USB 3 (or USB 2) port I plug it, it is not recognized properly.
I get an "unknown peripheral" in Device Manager.
(I've installed USB3 renesas drivers from Gigabyte website btw)
How can I make my USB Hub work ? :/
I tested it on another computer on windows XP it works just fine
Thanks a lot :(
EDIT extract from D-Link's website :
Quote:
The DUB-1340 works with any Windows, Mac or Linux system. Your computer will detect the USB hub and install the drivers automatically, so there is no need to carry the drivers on a CD or a memory dongle.
guys got some good news and photos , with Falkentyne's help found a software program that matches vcore , to the actual DMM test , Im using HWiNFO32 v3.72-1207 http://www.hwinfo.com/download32.html
see here in the photos my fluke meter to the program on the screen , yes volts are high im just testing llc now ;) but you can see its a perfect match
Im at 1.480 in bios with llc6 at the moment
My Meter
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k7...c/IMAG0662.jpg
My Screenshot with loaded prime and HWiNFO32
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k7...pc/desktop.png
My meter in front of program HWiNFO32 on the screen
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k7...c/IMAG0661.jpg
you have the B2 board correct?
I will try that out with my board and see the results.
EDIT: i just checked, and the B3 board, no go. Its teh same as easytune. Please compare your results against easytune from hwinfo to easytune. Actualy vcore is 1.279.
i hate hwinfo lol.
Pretty sure he's on a B3 board, not a crossflashed B2.
then hes the only one where software matches hardware ;) exactly
Pretty sure that my sensor readings are close to hardware as he and I have almost the same droop range, although I'm using a UD5.
Your droop with LLC disabled is like 0.025v lower than mine, just comparing software to software. (not sure about real_7's though).
with 1.25v BIOS, I got 1.176-1.164v load with hwinfo32 with LLC off. Yours is 1.138'ish (guesstimating since you had 1.23v set, and 1.18 showing at sensors load).
I'm wondering if maybe GB changed some hardware on the board earlier or later in the B3 rollout? Some people had stickers over the revision, while some had the new revision directly painted over.
Real_7, when did you get your UD7 B3?
And Sin, when did you get yours?
I got mine early in march from newegg (UD5, though)
Sin, I did mention this before,Quote:
Originally Posted by sin0822
But one way to tell if the vcore is .1v higher or not is from the temps.
That will also increase the power draw as well.
.1v is about +10C on air (maybe slightly more).
But two cpu's on two different systems can't be directly compared, since default VID can also play a role in the temps (my 1.21v chip is 5C hotter than my 1.235vid chip at the same voltage (vid at default speeds).
Er, scratch that last comment about your 1.23v drooping to 1.108; you had that on an earlier test.
But I just looked at your droop....you're going from 1.23v BIOS to 1.218v at load with NO LLC....that's like your board has automatic LLC7 or something. But the sensors won't show it....
Sin....are you SURE your DMM is calibrated correctly?
Can you read the DDR3 or the VTT to compare?
It seems like maybe your board is defective or some calibration is way off....
Owi,Quote:
Originally Posted by owikh84
Can you check your idle/load vcore with LLC9 at 4 ghz and 1.25v set in BIOS?
I want to know if you're rising at load or drooping
You should be rising considerably at 1.25v for sure.
so far it seems like this board needs more vtt than my M4E, but other than that everything's good.
falk- with LLC disabled, i was getting better load voltages and idle voltages than levels 1-3. It is pretty odd, i noted that.
I got my board, and it has UD7-B3 directly on it, and i received it last week. No stickers.
The initial boards could have just had the chipset just replaced, but then again that is what all these boards have. I have two DMMs, but cost me 50/80 bucks each, ill make some pictures for you, but you guys should measure off the MLCC cap ont eh back of the board, like Tin did here:
http://xdevs.com/kpc/sandy/ud7_osc/ud7_sense.jpg
LLC#1 on mine had more vdroop in prime than disabled (1.15x v vs 1.164v). But had an higher idle vcore in the BIOS....
anyways I revisted with two DMMs this time going at teh same time. One that I was using was showing a .03v difference, an the better one i , its a $80 one says its more like a 0.02v difference. i will redo my charts, but this has become much better. I don't know why yesterday i was seeing 0.05v difference :( I will fix up my charts. But its not dead on at all, there is no wway he got it to be exact, at least, at a minumim without any LLC there is a 0.015v difference.
BTW both my meters are rated for a 5mv difference in accuracy. somthing like 5%
yea i told you LLC disabled seems to have LLC there! LOL
Really? I've seen several people reporting stickers, like a lot...Quote:
Originally Posted by sin0822
And a post over at Gigabyte .de forum talks about it too, don't remember what was said though. Also, see Dino's comments here about labels (Which makes sense and was my expectation - same as with 5870 OC/SOC cards, labels on OC cards covering SOC PCB)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=268078
interesting I though tthey all had UD7-B3 written on it, mine has UD7-B3 labeled on it, no sticker. The box is different than teh first, but the board has P67A-UD7-B3 on it directly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lsdmeasap
thanks ed
Now, as far as models go I am not sure where the line is drawn on new PCB/Old PCB with labels, but I do know some of the older PCB's were used on some and labels applied, but not sure if that applies to all models or only certain ones?
Rev. 1.0/1.1 was also a part of the discussion in regards to this same subject, here is the .de discussion I mentioned (Can't find the one about labels/PCB though)
http://translate.google.com/translat...%26prmd%3Divns
I thought UD5/UD7 are stil revision 1.0? my UD7-B3 is rev 1.0 with new PCB label. There has been no hardware change, i paid close attention to resistor ratings around the PWM and they are 100% the same as teh old UD7-B2.
ED- its hard for me to read that type of english! LOL
Sorry about the last PM, i didn't want you to give your hopes up like i did.
I am seeing the same differences from hardware to software as this guy is now:
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_CJpbLrog_T0/TY...age%5B4%5D.png
he is on B3 i still cant find the LLC that i need, and i would like stasio, dinos or lsdmeasap tell me if the crossflashed is better than F8 for my board or its the sameQuote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne
plz ?
cheers to all
Sergio