both :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r
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both :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by serialk11r
Any idea where to go for a comprehensive site for sleeving, molex modding, psu modding instructions? I'm on the last leg of finishing off my system for good and I'm looking to cut my ATX cable from my PSU down by half of its length as well as relocating molexes and sleeving them. However, I'm a bit scared to just read tid bits here and there and jump in. A PCP&C 1K PSU doesn't come cheap...Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
But this http://www.pccasegear.com.au/prod1944.htmQuote:
Not too sure about the positioning of the drain tube. Is this a good position? If I moved it down towards the rad any more I started to loose the free flowing bend in the tubing. At the moment I can't see any flattening in the curves which is good.
Then you have more freedom to position the tubin as you want. I am using it on my current water cooled system and it works just fine.
As for me I am still questioning my sanity after seeing the total of the UFO case + rad. Is arounf 1K... Still not decided if I want to pay that much... looking at the DD - Water Box Plus maybe I will end up buying that one - with postage is less than the cost of the UFO case. Still undecided ... has anyone got anything (bad/good) to say about the DD - Water Box Plus?
(https://www.dangerden.com/store/prod...3&cat=1&page=1)
As for you GeoffP - would you still buy the case if you knew then your experience from now?
Your build is coming along nicely. I especially like how you did the fan controller using the custom bay cover...excellent work.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
About the RAM sinks and thermal adhesive. I highly recommend that you NOT use the thermal adhesive by itself. It is better to mix some Arctic Silver 5 in with it so that if you need to remove the sinks later, you'll be able to do so without as much hair pulling as I went through.
I don't recommend cutting your PCP&C's main ATX cable. There are more creative ways to minimize cable clutter. For example; you could fold the cable over on itself, zip tie it and then sleeve over top of that to keep the 'clump' from looking bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
If you were to cut the cable to shorten it and needed to use it in a different case or with a different motherboard in the future, you'll be up the creek unless you want to 'un-mod' your previous 'shorten the cable mod'. ;)
I found a link on sleeving which was very descriptive - will try to find it for you. I used that information to do the fans on the rad shroud. After that its dead easy to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
You just need a good soldering iron (with flame adapter for heat shrink shrinking), solder, sleeving, heat shrink, good set of cutters, electrical tape, sharp scissors to cut electrical tape, molex pin removers, bite your tongue and off you go. ALWAYS remember to make a note of the pin-out of ANY cables you remove from a molex connector (or take a photo for visual reference).
I have also purchase some extra wide sleeving which I will be using to help hide some of the power supply cables which wont be needed. Next supply I buy will definitely be modular in design - MUCH better idea.
Once you have done a couple of sleeves, its quite infectious :p:
Thanks mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by InTheFlow
I will definitely be mixing AS5 or Ceramique with the adhesive. Like the option of undoing what I have done.
Ranker,
Found the link on how to sleeve a cable - here
freecableguys instruction are very informative as usual.
Does it matter which input you use at the bottom of the EK Reservoir?
I am using the bottom vertical flow hole for out and the bottom horizontal flow hole directly above it for in.
There are two bottom horizontal holes with a small divider between them. In the above in/out config, does it matter which side of the divider the in flow is on?
Hope this makes sense...
How long does it take the AS adhesive to set firmly?
I mixed it with a bit less than 1 to 1 with Ceramique.
The ram sinks felt fairly solid, started putting on the tubing, and they still fell off.
Do you have to leave this stuff overnight to harden?
How long did you leave the mix to harden before handling the GPU?Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
I gave it a couple of hours, thought the ram sinks were firmly attached, started putting on my tubing, they all fell off..
Have any of your sinks been knocked off since you stuck them on with adhesive/ceramique?
I've started the work on all of my fans and sleeved them all. Now i'm working on doing a custom job on all of my power connectors. I'm going to remove some and add some connectors to different cables done at custom lengths. I'm a bit worried about the main ATX cable though. If anyone's done it, let me know if I should be careful to watch out for something (so far, i'm going to tag all the individual cables in the ATX cable with #'s so i know the exact order they were in).Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
BTW, what would you need a soldering iron for? I have one, but I haven't run across a need for it yet.
The adhesive stuff can be a bit tricky. At least it was for me. It took me about 4 tries before I had the stuff mixed just right. It is a lot less forgiving of a bad mix than say regular epoxy is.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
Make sure that you mix the two equal parts of the adhesive together throughly first. I can't stress the 'equal' & 'throughly' part enough...very important! Then add your other stuff. I'm not sure what the best ratio is but you may have to reduce the amount of Ceramique you use to get a more firm bond.
You might want to experiment on an old circuit board you have lying around. That way you'll know your mix is right. Ideally, you'll want to be able to 'pop' off the sinks with just a little extra force.
And, no...it doesn't take overnight for it to get strong enough to work with. Keep in mind that the sinks will not normally have any force applied to them at all anyway so as long as they stay on when the card is upside down, you should be good.
You may also find these directions beneficial.
EDIT:
I don't remember if I had told you this on another thread before or not but if not, I don't recommend cutting your main ATX cable...instead, sleeve it creatively. Think about how you could get the same result you imagine w/o shortening it. That way you could still use the PS on a different build (or sell it) in the future.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
If you are insistent on doing it though, learn on an old PS before chopping into your good one.
A soldering iron comes in handy any time you are going to reconnect wires together. For example; wiring several fans together, changing a for pin molex connection down to a 3 pin header connection, or extending the length of a pump's power cable.
like he said it, wouldn't recommend cutting up main atx wires, best just fold and use zip ties and tuck somewhere unobtrusive...
geoffp, gud luck on experimenting with AS adhesive. me, i'll stick with superglue...
Yeah, I guess I'll do that then. I figure if two people are gonna save me from myself, i might as well listen.Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Used the soldering iron when I joined and extended the fan wires on my rad.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker
If you are going to modify your power cables, how are you planning on reconnecting the moles pins? Are you using new ones, if so, I would still recommend soldering as well as crimping the on.
Thanks mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by InTheFlow
I re-stuck them down last night, fitted the cards this morning, no sinks fell off. I was UBER careful though not to hit them at all :)
Unfortunately I have found that the tubing between the two GPU's is really flattening out.
Can you get cool sleeves for Tygon 1/2" ID 3/4" O/D tubing, or something else that will round out the tubing again?
Re-jigged loop photos:
Circled where the tubing is flattening out.
I also relocated the t-piece for the drain tube so it is at the lowest point in the loop.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/85s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/86s.jpg http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...CUBEIT/87s.jpg
Not real sure what to do about the flattening tube. The 3/4" O/D tube diameter makes it too thick for Cool Sleeves - I actually don't like the look of Cool Sleeves anyway, but I suppose it is a necessary evil.
I just need to solve this problem, then I can fill 'er up and leak test :p:
just put some coolsleeves on where the tubing is flattening out...you will be fine..
granted, coolsleeves do look like ass, but they will do the job
Can you wind Cool Sleeves on with the tubing already in place, or do you have to unclamp one end and slide it on?
Would rather not frig with the GPU's again at the moment after all the problems with ram sinks.
well sleeves can't just magically "unkink" an already kinking tube. you should use on tubing with its natural bendQuote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
K, thanks Nooc.
Just talked with PCCaseGear, the Cool Sleeves they have is not suitable for the 3/4" O/D Tygon. They used to get some that was suitable for my application, but the manufacturer no longer makes it.
They said some people have wrapped ordinary wire around the kinks :eek:
I might just go for a couple of cable ties for a temporary fix, and start leak testing. Need to get my main pc back up :p:
I have the save problem with my machine. I used a mix of cool sleeve for the SLI bend and some Zip Ties for the crucial spots.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffP
What tubing r u using?Quote:
Originally Posted by ranker