M3?Quote:
Originally Posted by korby
sorry I'm a n00b.... but I know that the northbridge holes are smaller than the ones around the cpu and since the cpu holes use the 6-32 size acording to this pic:
http://members.cox.net/kjboughton/s_4.jpg
what size would I need for the northbridge? 5-30? 4-20? or something like that...
I’d rather move to far off topic, but according to the Intel C2D design guide:
http://download.intel.com/design/pro...x/31368502.pdf
(See the drawing on page 124)
the CPU HSF holes are 4.03mm. (they’re clearance hole for the 3.5mm plastic pins.)
ANSI threads below ¼” are measured in gages and specified by <diameter>-<pitch>
Metric threads are measured in millimeters and typically prefixed with “M”. They’re also specified by <diameter>-<pitch> (Unless the course thread is assumed and they’re just labled M[some number])
#6-32 ANSI threads are 0.138” in diameter, (or about 3.5mm), and will work. (So will M4 threads).
The holes for the chipset coolers are typically smaller, 3mm being the logical choice. I’m not sure if this is covered by any specification. #4-40 UNF should work for clearance, (#5-40 might be tight since it's larger than 3mm), but it’s not going to work with any existing metric threads.
Well I did this mod(great guide OP) - but it hasn't done anything good for me, in fact if anything it's made my temps slightly worse. I was peaking around 65C before I did the mod, since I did it I'm up as high as 68C(same ambient in the room, same fans). I'm not sure whether I just did a truly terrible job lapping it(it took me around 90 minutes and I wasn't very happy with the result, first time lapping) - or whether the stuff I used for mounting it just wasn't put together well by myself. I even used springs, so it's rather dissapointing that it's done at best nothing to my temps. Ah well.
Have you tried reseating the heatsink, (with new TIM), just in case you trapped air between the HSF and the IHS? Do you have a backplate?Quote:
Originally Posted by specofdust
Could you post some pictures of your assembly?
One of the problems with this modification is knowing if your actually improving things, i.e., increasing the pressure between the components. I'd love to have a sensor that would allow me to measure the pressure on the IHS.
If you’re using the original metal clips, what is the distance between the bottom of the clip and the motherboard? If it's more than the thickness of the white pins, (where the clips would rest), you can’t be increasing the pressure. Springs won’t help unless they can provide more pressure than the original pins. Just don’t get too carried away, or you could experience this: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...35&postcount=1
Yeah, I've had a backplate. I realised the problem I think when taking it off to reseat it - I noticed that the HSF was actually listing to one side. As can be seen on the image here there are 6 low-rise caps situated around my CPU socket that interfere with the cooler. It appears that althogh they're low enough that you can get an acceptable contact with pins, when you try to mount it tightly it pulls down on one side, and I'm guessing only contacts around half the IHS. Looks like new CPU cooler time for me :( - great thread though everyone, very very helpful and I'm sure it would have been great had I a friendly mobo.
well, I just did this with my scythe.
he push pins basically died on me. after a few remountings I was about to give up hope, especially since I'd run out of thermal paste and was just reusing the crap that they included with the HSF.
well results are in, went from 55idle to 32idle 70+load(never really tested it more than a few seconds, i don't like seeing temps like that so I stopped turned off my OC and undervolted which helped but didn't fix the problem, then I swapped to the stock cooler which was performing better sadly) to 52load
so basically a huge improvement based off of what I had been getting witha dying mounting system. Now, I just to to apply some arctic ceramic(it's cheaper and works just as good/better than AS5 so I don't want to hear it) and do a few mods to the fan(namely filing the base with paste for better contact)
New case and new paste.
31C idle 43Cload. significant improvement.
now, to do a bit of modding and to see if can drop it a few more C... I'm aiming for 40C.
Thanks for this guide... I managed to mod my Ninja (Rev. B).
I couldn't find any of those fancy knobs around, so I used wing-nuts instead, which actually worked out pretty well. My layout of each screw went:
(bottom)screw -> 4 washers + 1 insulated washer -> (thru mobo) thru heatsink mounting hole -> 1 washer -> spring -> 1 washer -> wing-nut.
I have about 8-10 degrees drop. :)
Where can i get a back plate?
http://www.svc.com/lga775rm-21.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by t1no
also which one should i get for the mounting hardware?
http://www.petrastechshop.com/wacoac.html
Thanks,
http://www.petrastechshop.com/ekcpuwamoha.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by t1no
Do you need a backplate for this mod?
Not necesarely, but it is recommended. My board is bent now even with the cooler out. :(
Anyone got any UK links for a back plate, Im having trouble finding one.
would this work though?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-Socket-478...QQcmdZViewItem
Hmm...
We are talking about LGA 775 here. o.OQuote:
Socket 478
yeah sorry should have mentioned that!
If I want to mod my infinity, I want to use a backplate. Which is better?(e6600)
Coolermaster:
http://ecd.coolermaster.com/english/...ylist_ebp_n775
Thermalright(this is a backplate right?)
http://www.azerty.nl/producten/produ...5-rm-clip.html
Which is better? the CM one is only 1 euro, the TR is 6 euro. Which is stronger/better for this mod(s775)?
If you can get your hands on a backplate from an Asus Silent Square ... then your almost gauranteed not to bend your backplate.Quote:
Originally Posted by barzi
I wish I had a photo of it ... it's a behemoth backplate; super fat and not the typical 'cross' shape like most you'll find available for order ... almost a solid square of metal ...
I had one a while back but sold it ...
Even contacted Asus, but they won't sell the backplate without the cooler ...
I can't get that kind of backplate. I only can get those 2, but i'm not sure if the thermalright is a backplate. Is it a backplate?Quote:
Originally Posted by s1rrah
If so, which is better of those 2?
hi all, (this is my first post :cheer:)
Thanks to google I saw this thread when I was searching for reviews about the Scythe Infinity that I was about to buy.
Well....I can say reading this arcticle my face was going like this: :confused: :rolleyes: :) :D
The Infinity is now on its way to my new E6600 as is the AS-5 and ArctiClean.
The ZM-CS2 is also coming soon:
http://www.zalman.co.kr/images/produ...serator106.jpg
And also the Alphacool CPU 4-hole Bolt Set: (out of stock :( )
http://www.sallandautomatisering.nl/files/26986.jpg
I am going to mount all this on the XFX N680-ISH9 mobo:
http://www.xfxforce.com/media/produc...39170013/2.jpg
More pictures
I think this is all going to work and I hope to be able to post 4 GHz screenshots soon! :dj:
By the way: What cleaning stuff do I have to use for cleaning the connection points of the cpu to the socket?
Because after lapping my cpu the bottom might become dirty too.
Greetings,
intel_478
With the right ambient temps, and a decent 6600 chip, 4+ghz shouldn't be a problem; I've bench tested my own 6400 at over 4.2ghz with the very same pressure mounted infinity.Quote:
I think this is all going to work and I hope to be able to post 4 GHz screenshots soon! :dj:
Dry sand the CPU when lapping it; wet sand works better for the Infinity.Quote:
By the way: What cleaning stuff do I have to use for cleaning the connection points of the cpu to the socket?
Because after lapping my cpu the bottom might become dirty too.
When doing the CPU, if provided when you purchased it, use the little plastic cap that goes over the back of the chip; otherwise, when finished lapping the CPU, just blow the pin side out real good with some compressed air. Also, you can use a magnifying glass to inspect for any particles.
I wouldn't recommend any sort of cleaner, however ... although it might not hurt if you use a high alcohol concentration cleaner and let the chip dry adequately.
Thanks for the tips! I'm going to use that cap that comes with it then.Quote:
Originally Posted by s1rrah
And I think I'm going to practice on my P4 S478 (3,0 prescott) & NB-CoolScraper 120 (rev2.0) first ;)
I'm wondering how you can create a flat surface by moving the big Infinity over the sandpaper... any experience-tips about that would be great!
The infinity will be a bit more challenging to lap. Mostly cause it's so tall and because the little aluminum heat sink attached to the base, makes it awkward to hold.Quote:
Originally Posted by intel_478
Tips for Lapping the Infinity:
1. Wet sand. Use a couple tablespoons of water on the paper (not enough to go running all off the glass); also, to make things really silky smooth, use a drop or two of dish washing soap added to the water. The sand paper will not cut as quickly as if dry sanding, but it will still be cutting the bottom of your cooler, even though it doesn't feel like it. (See the photo at the bottom)
1. Go slow. No need to hurry. If you try to move the cooler too quickly, or with uneven pressure applied, it will grab/stutter across the sandpaper.
2. For the most part, slide the cooler over the sandpaper while simply holding it very loosely on each side of the base; this way, you let the weight of the cooler suffice for downward pressure. As you make progress, and as you get more comfortable with the movement of the cooler over the sand paper, you can begin experimenting with applying a bit more pressure (while still holding evenly on both sides)
3. Stop very 20 minutes or so to check your progress using a marker on the bottom of the cooler-- dry the cooler base, scribble across the entire base with a felt tip marker, then return to lapping very briefly, then check the base to see if the marker is wearing off evenly.
4. Go slow. Take your time. I sanded mine for a good hour before it was totally flat. Went from 400 to 600 to 1000.
...
Here's a shot of mine in the middle of lapping:
http://resume.jbhfile.com/temp/scythe_lap.jpg
As you can see, I'm only using enough water to cover the sand paper; also, but not evident in the shot, I *am* using a small amount of dish soap in the water. As long as the pressure applied was even and slight, the cooler would slide across the paper like it was on ice ... very very smooth. And as you can see from all the copper visible in the shot, it was still very effectivly (if not a bit more slowly than dry) cutting the metal.
...
:up:
Can i also make a home-made backplate? I thought making one from (don't know how you call it in english):Quote:
Originally Posted by barzi
http://www.ikea.com/PIAimages/59292_PE165117_S3.jpg
It's called, in the netherlands, "snijplank". You cut meat, vegetable and stuff on it. Can i make a backplate out of this stuff?(People use it here (don't know if they use it also in the USA) as mou nting hardware of containers for dry-ice and stuff. Just cut a hole in it and 4 holes for the screws and you have a mounting bracket.) I hope i have explained it well enough.
EDIT: used with ln2 container:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...eelding011.jpg
Do you think it's good/strong enough for a backplate for the infinity?(with only 4 scew holes)
Thank you very much again s1rrah !!
---
@ barzi:
I think it will do the trick because all the cuttingboards I know are really stiff/strong.
But I suggest to use a metal backplate.