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So do I ... If you want to know for the reset : it keeps profiles
If you want to know how it would be with the washers : look at this !!!
http://soj.mesdiscussions.net/soj/in...jet_2390_1.htm
It was hawfull (look at the pics), but a few works after I lost 10° on the NB ;)
wow lots of photos :)
For all screws - washers mod did not help MB temp 90C - it is flying back to shop ordering new one :/ Hope this time I will have more luck.
Good luck m8, just all playin' "russian roullette" wittf board !! But I just do not feel unlucky this time...
Got to test it under dry ice next month and try to see what's behind 600 fsb :D
ok so I have bios 1606 just got this board, and am having major issues with raid. I change the setting from ide to raid then it hangs at the "setecting sata 1" part of post but only while in raid mode, any one else have this prob?
Get 1802, all other after yours break Multiplier.
Can you tell us what revision of P45 chip do you have is it A2 or A3?Quote:
Originally Posted by philbrown23
You can check it in CPUz i.e.
Thanks
Has anyone tried replacing the top heatsink of the NB and used a Thermalright HR-05 SLI chipset cooler?
http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa...i/hr-05sli.jpg
Just curious....I tried my friends' Thermalright HR-05 SLI chipset cooler and it is possible, but you need to get longer screws for it to reach the holes of the original NB screw holes....
so dude.. any improvement for the temp?any testing?can post picture for us.. i also got nb temp high during full load occt..>71c-74c :down: :shocked:Quote:
Originally Posted by xzulu
I haven't tried it yet, I just checked if it was possible to fit :) But I'm trying to get my hands on one soon.
Did you remount the heatpipe assembly? And changed the thermalpaste of the NB and SB and added some washers to the NB screws? Try that first that should lower your temps by 20C or more.Quote:
i also got nb temp high during full load occt..>71c-74c
Oh sorry, it should be the Thermalright HR-05 SLI/IFX, cause the clips are bolted on unlike the Thermalright HR-05 SLI it's the clip type, so the screws might not fit through the holes of the clip...
http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa...fx_sli/b/4.jpg
Hi guys on new year 2009! Can you believe this first day and already a question :ROTF:.
I am looking for quick guide what drivers should be installed for MF2 for VISTA and when.
So far I know that there is Chipset drv, Matrix Manager and Marvel drivers from ESATA to be downloaded. Is there something else? (I am asking purly about MOBO without sound and video).
Is there separate driver for LAN cards?
Help much appreciated as I am switching from AMD platform and I am just not sure if I got all.
--------------------
Also did someone manage to install windows XP with AHCI driver on USB stick? I got error and It wont read drivers from USB.
Vista 32 and 64 bit do not require any additional Raid drivers...
Install the OS then install chipset drivers, then Matrix Storage Manager, then Sound and finally GPU.
Lan will update once you install updates from MS.
I find its best to get the chipset and MSM drivers straight from Intel
lmk if you need links
Thanks Grnfinger this is exactly the answer I was looking for.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grnfinger
I got links to Intel web page from you already (I asked about those specific drivers in MF2 thread before).
Thanks m8,
Any experience with Windows XP USB stick and AHCI?
No problem:)Quote:
Originally Posted by seban
I have not used XP in over a year now, and when I did I used a floppy
I need XP for HD content playback - XP is still superior to Vista in this field (like in many others TBH).Quote:
Originally Posted by Grnfinger
And I am an HD addict.
1901 is out :)
anyone has tried it? changelog? :p
Only thing they say about it is "increased memory compatibility". I'm still on 1307 I have no reason to upgrade from it.
OK perfect :)Quote:
Originally Posted by CryptiK
1901 is stable but phase pull ins are still broken so no point in upgrading.
If your having troubles getting ram stable it might be worth a shot but otherwise it is of little benifit
Just some things I think might be useful for others. Please add to 1st post if you agree.
To anyone thinking of using the Speeding HDD in RAID0...Don't do it! I saw someone post a bench of it in the main thread, and it caps I/O at 120MB/s. The Intel ICH10 is far superior, and it's best to disable the 'Speeding HDD' (this will speed up boot-time as well) unless you really need more than 6 sata devices.
To everyone asking for others BIOS settings...you need to experiment! If you think that plugging in someone else's BIOS settings is going to work you are mistaken. An enthusiast board like this requires a lot of fine-tuning to get great results. Every board is unique and so is every CPU and RAM. If you want something quick and easy, go for a mainstream board that doesn't have so many tweaks. If you're going to leave everything on 'auto' what's the point of spending the extra $? Spending more on the mobo doesn't mean you'll get better results unless you're willing to spend a LOT of time tweaking, experimenting, taking notes, and finding the 'sweet spot'. In fact, you'll probably get better results on a mainstream board if you just want to leave most settings on auto.
To those w/ bent boards...does it straighten out when you screw it into the case? Problem solved! Those benching on a table may not have that option, but there are bench racks available.
*Just got an open-box M2F last night. Changed the TIM w/ MX-2, and bolted it down good and hard w/ extra washers on the NB and SB. It didn't want to boot right away. Tried clearing CMOS, no luck...I pulled out 2 sticks of RAM and she came right up! Bumped DRAM-voltage to 2.15, and NB to 1.15...put all other voltage to min except 1.25vcore, and put all the RAM back. She booted right up w/o having to re-install OS, but I will be trying out Windows 7 shortly anyway. Set it to 400x8.5 and no immediate issues. It was late, so tonight I get to start playing for real! I couldn't quite get 4GHz stable on my P5K-Premium...I'm hoping to get at least 4GHz stable on this board.
Well if thats an acceptable soloution for you great but dont be-little others if they choose not to accept the board in that condition.Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
When screwing it down to the case it can cause great stress on the PCB, it can reduce mosfet heatsink contact ( like in the case of my Maximus X38 board) so when running a mild clock like yours it may show no effects, but stressing the board at higher FSB will show instability very fast.
jason4207, listen i didnt buy an open box board, i bought and paid the full 270$ when it first came out.Asus wont accept deformed boards from us why should we accept it from them.and also, sometimes plugging in some one else bios settings work great as a starting point. why else do you think so many people post thier settings.even experienced users struggle sometimes with new hardware.it from other peoples successes that we all benefit.thats the whole point of these forums.not just to post about how great we are(i bought a board,didnt want to boot,but im so great i got it to work perfectly,but its my secret how i did it)come on.getting tired of certain people posting what they think is best for everyone.or trying to discredit others,or others hardware.
Sorry guys! I had no intentions to offend anyone. Just felt like standing on the soap-box for a minute. :)
I hear what you're saying, but just installing the CPU HS can cause the board to deform. In my situation screwing the board into the case actually improved MOSFET contact.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grnfinger
My clock may not seem that high to you, but I can assure you that I'm stressing the FSB very hard on this quad. I know it has more CPU freq in it, but this damn FSB wall is testing my patience!
You have every right to request a new board. That is 1 problem w/ having these huge heatpiped HS's. They look great, but as we all know the heatpipes can bend fairly easily. If they get slightly out-of-whack during manufacturing it can cause the board to also bend. I guess we could spend some time trying to bend the heatpipe assembly by hand and setting it on the board until it sits flush w/o any screws, but for $270 you really shouldn't have to do that.Quote:
Originally Posted by radaja
In my situation the board was bent, but my TRUE also put some additional bend in it. Once in the case it's good to go. Contact is good on the NB, SB, and MOSFETS b/c I locked the screws down hard w/ washers on the NB & SB. Right now at 485FSB my temps in the BIOS are 34C-NB, 37C-SB, 25C-MB, 28C-PWM in a 69F house. Voltages are: vcore-1.23v, DRAM-2.15v, NB-1.24v, PLL-1.6v, vTT-1.25v.
My comment about the BIOS settings came out wrong. It seemed to me that many folks (probably not you) were just typing in others BIOS settings and when they didn't work they just kind of gave up. They didn't try to tweak anything or experiment in anyway. I agree that using others BIOS settings as a starting point can help, but usually using someones completely maxed out settings will not work. Using someone elses 'safe' settings as a start and then looking at various 'max' settings to see where people fine-tuned is usually more helpful IMO. It also seemed like many had bought this board as their first foray into OCing, and perhaps had the misconception that buying a more expensive board would mean that they would be able to OC further. I saw quite a few posts where every setting was on auto, and then they asked what was wrong. This is not an 'auto' board IMO. My comment was more directed to those folks.
I'm having my own issues. I'm working on getting 485FSB stable, and so far I can't get more than a minute of P95-large-fft before I get 2 cores failing. I'm still playing w/ the GTL's, though. I may end up having to settle for less for 24/7 operation, though.
Also, 2 of my beloved D9 Tracers appear to have bitten the dust last night. I'm kind of regretting this purchase now, as my P5K-Premium has been running strong w/ this RAM for 1-1/2 yrs now. Tried to take a step forward, and I end up taking 2 steps back. I know Crucial isn't going to send me D9's as replacements, so I'm going to have to buy a whole new set of RAM as mixing D9's w/ the new crap they have always ends up causing problems for people.
Do you guys still think 1307 is the best? I started out w/ 1802, and then decided to try 1901 to see if it helped. Then I tried to copy BIOS1 over to BIOS2 and 2 of my RAM sticks died...:confused: Anyway, in my panic I went back to 1307. I tested the 2 bad sticks 1 at a time in each dimm slot, but it won't boot w/ them. The other 2 boot up just fine. :shrug:
radaja, I see you have the UD3P now. Do you like it better? Can you get the FSB higher for 24/7 than you could on the M2F?
Hi, I have some questions I hope someone could answer. I use the MIIF with kets 1307 bios for pure clocking with old p4 but it's way more advanced than I'm used to.
I can't get setFSb to work, have found the clock generator but the nr isn't listed in setFSB, doesn't setFSB support the card?
And I would be really happy if someone could give me a link or something that would help me understand all the more advanced stuff in bios, like cpu clock skew.
No need to apologize, and no offence taken, its just a sore subject for some:DQuote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
In the case of your ram...1802 and 1901 are really good, I currently have both loaded, after a flash do not load a save bios profile, do a cmos clear and enter everything manually. GTLs will be key to getting your chip high FSB stable.
Post your setup if you like and suggestions can be made on ways to improve
jason4207,no problem but just a little info on my boards,even with the heatsinks off boards 1&2 were severly warped where the pwms are between the two screw holes.its as if the screw holes on the heatsinks themselves were not the right distance apart,so during the initial assembly,its almost like it pulled and bent the board just to fit.resulting in the deformity.i even tried to make the heatsink as flat and straight as possible,no luck because the board itself is permantly bent that way now.also i completly agree about some new OCers thinking that this board would some how because of it being highend would magicly make OCing a breeze.but then again if they gave up because it didnt work like that then that still is thier choice.its thier money.and about the UD3P,this is just my limited opinion but,hell yea!i love this board.im going to buy the UD3R next.but i cant really compare it with the maxII because ive only gotten to use my max's for a handful of days,and they were not fully functioning boards.i wish i had one that did work,but alas its just not in the stars for me.again no hard feelings sorry.