I will do this on my ninja with the danger den kit from petra's if my e6700 buy works out.
I will do this on my ninja with the danger den kit from petra's if my e6700 buy works out.
You may also want to consider this:Quote:
Originally Posted by cursivearmy1
http://www.petrastechshop.com/ekcpuwamoha.html
I just purchased the Danger Den Kit and the EK. The springs on the EK kit are quite a bit thicker than the DD's
The 4mm pan head screws are a bit long, (45mm), for the Infinity, so I replaced them with 35mm ones. You could probably add spacers under the motherboard or just cut off 5-10mm's.
I used some nylon and steel washers on the back and steel washers under the springs to finish up. The 4mm nut was added as a jam nut.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6...ountce3.th.jpg
When I saw this post, I think that I have to make this modification, but when I went to the hardware store he had not any springs, and I have to made this modifications:
I used rubber washeds instead of the springs, I use a lot of this (6x4) in order to have sufficient elasticity.
Here are the results:
http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/8735/crw2580nq2.th.jpg
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/4...2584zg4.th.jpg
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/4613/crw2585yv4.th.jpg
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/7295/crw2593gz2.th.jpg
I lapping my procesor too, and I take 5ºC less than before.
Thanks and sorry for my poor english.
This is my spanish post:
http://foro.noticias3d.com/vbulletin...d.php?t=185105
PD: I have a 6400@2800 (55º full TAT), Ninja, P5W-DH...
Hey, that's my method. :D Good job. ;)
I did this on my ninja with the danger den kit today. I realize I did not tighten enough what so ever. I need to get to that, that's most likely why I have high temps.
I just installed my infinity today in a hurry, didn't even have the correct stuff to mount it with modified fashion, so my temps are near stock, but slightly lower than stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by cursivearmy1
I will remount the infinity once i am done with finals next week, just don't have time at the moment to do it.
Just wondering where i might be able to pick up a few of those springs from the first post, if a hardware store, which would be the best?
Also, the knurled knobs would make the mounting easier.
I went to lowes, but i didn't find such a great selection.
i appreciate any info you can give me.
thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by zbomb5610
If you’re in the Mid-Atlantic and have a Taylor’s DO-IT center in your location, they carry the Midwest Fastener line where you could get the knurled knobs as well as the screws/washers etc., (but not the springs).
However, I’d recommend Petra’s Tech Shop:
http://www.petrastechshop.com/wacoac.html (look never the bottom)
They have the Danger Den and the EK kits. I bought both and prefer the EK, (bigger springs). Both kit have everything you need. The prices are great and the shipping is amazing. I order both kits Monday, and received them Wednesday. The total for both kits, with shipping, was under $17. If you could find everything locally, you’d probable burn that much in gas.
You can see the EK kit in action back here:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=127
my local ace hardware had the knurled knobs and the springs ... as well as any other things i needed like screws and washers.Quote:
Originally Posted by zbomb5610
I am actually on the west coast, and i have the screws and nuts, but it would be easier to do and have better mounting with the springs and the knurled knobs which are all i need.Quote:
Originally Posted by deees
I appreciate the info and the links. petra seems to be a little pricey since you can do the kit yourself for under $7, and petra charges around that for shipping alone.
thanks, ill check out my local ace and post back once i get everything mounted if they have what i need.Quote:
Originally Posted by s1rrah
Hey guys, re knurled knobs.
I haven't tried this yet, but I thought about drilling and tapping some aluminium thumbscrews. Cut off the external thread first, obviously. Probably need a drill press and vice to ensure your pilot hole is sound. I am going to try this out next time I'm in the workshop.
Well, in fairness to Petra's, they stocking and selling complete kits for specific applications. I also think they'll ship First Class to the East Coast for $1.60. (They included a hand written note with my order reminding me of the fact.)Quote:
Originally Posted by zbomb5610
The EK kit, (currently sold-out), does have some nice 4mm screws and heavier springs. If you can find something similar at ACE, post the part numbers so other people can benefit. I checked out the local ACE in my area, but they didn't have any springs that were suitable. They can order them, but it's kind of a subject item, so a part number were help.
excellent guide!
Did the mod, with a "custom" backplate, Gigabyte's CrazyCool plus 2 pci brackets.
I didn't lap my Infinity, as I am not aware of the procedure.
Gave me -3C drop. Now I am o/ced at 3500MHz with my E6300 with 1,36v @ 54C max.
some photos ->
http://aycu24.webshots.com/image/132...0191317_rs.jpg
http://aycu13.webshots.com/image/111...4163569_rs.jpg
http://aycu33.webshots.com/image/137...6431090_rs.jpg
http://aycu34.webshots.com/image/137...2379644_rs.jpg
there's a modder!
good job.
nice work on the backplate hack. although, the PCI brackets most likely don't have as much tensil strength as you really want ...
:)
no, they don't :(
but I believe its sufficient, 'cause if you see the 3rd photo, the m/b isn't bending at all.
I picked a strong one and carefully used the appropriate spacers,
and a less strong, so that it could bend slightly over the other, and tighten the whole structure.
With the stock push pins, my motherboard used to bend (slightly).
I believe Scythe should have made an Infinity rev. B with a backplate.
At my first mount with the stock pins, I wasn't even sure if I had it right.
Too much pressure had to be applied.
This mod rulez :)
yeah. knocked an easy 5C off of my own temps. great mod for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Gonzo
and regarding scythe ...
not only should they have included a backplate ... they shouldn't have wussed out in the first place and used the cheapo push pins.
they went with the established and pre designed intel push pin standard and avoided having to do a tad bit of custom work for a bolt through method. hamstrung their own design, IMO.
bolt thru, FTW!
...
i'm still stoked on the mod'd infinity; running at 35C right now with ambients of 25C on a E6400 at 3.2ghz - 1.3v (move down from 3.6 for the summer months!).
great cooler once properly modified.
again, good work ...
:toast:
Awesome mod :toast:
Just did this for my Infinity on a DS3 and E6400. Instant 3C drop, will be more when AS5 sets.
With a lapped IHS, 21c ambient temp, CPU at 3.4ghz 1.45v sits at 52c under load (orthos)
So you simply used the top plate that came with the Ninja and the back plate, screws and springs from the TT kit with a few extra washers?Quote:
Originally Posted by idiotekniQues
That looks like the easiest way to avoid using the cheesy plastic pushpin things that the Rev. B comes with.
We've been discussing 775 mounting allot over at http://www.silentpcreview.com lately. People are tired of good heatsinks not performing how they should because they follow the reference Intel 775 design.
Here is my latest, and hopefully last installment in the never end quest for Infinity attachment. I purchased the EK CPU mounting kit from Petra’s site primarily for the heavy springs and the 4mm screws and thumbnuts.
The kit worked well, but the strain of the Scythe mounting clips was starting to make me worry.
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6...ountce3.th.jpg
I started to look into recreating them in extruded aluminum, (basically adapting the dimensions for increased material thickness). This is a far as I got:
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/1003/clip-2.th.jpg
After test fitting, I discovered that it wasn’t viable as a replacement because there is too much junk crowding around the socket, (at least on the AW9D).
A similar clip made by lad:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...25&postcount=4
…avoiding this problem by moving the horizontal tabs higher above the motherboard.
Unfortunately for me, that wouldn’t leave me enough room under the cooling vanes to install the springs and thumbscrews.
The solution was to move the thumbscrews to under the motherboard. Since I would no longer have access to the screw head because of the cooling vanes, I had to come up with a way to stop them from turning.
Using some 3mm thick aluminum stock, I made braces to link the two screws head so they can’t turn. The 4mm holes are threaded and the screw heads have small notches filed in them to allow a #2 set screw lock them into position. Thread lock would probably work as well.
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/5035/stockwz2.th.jpg
Here are the pieces assembled to test the fit. The thumbscrews are installed above the back plate to hold anything together. The black spots on the screw heads are the hand-made setscrews.
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/9...testzt2.th.jpg
A close-up on a test subject showing the screwhead:
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/5...crewvq1.th.jpg
Once it is assembled on the HSF, lock nuts were used to “preload” the springs so that some of the slack is removed before installation. It also has the effect making the unit more rigid.
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/4...bledat4.th.jpg
The back plate was insulated with some green sheet plastic I cut to cover all of the contact area. I’d like to replace the stamped metal back plate with a solid metal one if I can find one. Meanwhile, I’ll need to use plastic spacers to expose more the thumbscrews, so I can get a hold of them.
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/7...lateip7.th.jpg
One unexpected benefit of the design is that I can now tight two opposing corners at one time, and don’t have to deal with the problem of the heat sink “rocking” back and force.
A side and corner view showing the attachment to the extruded aluminum part of HSF, using #6 threaded stock and locknuts.
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/2775/siderd5.th.jpg
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/852/angledff1.th.jpg
The basic dimensions of the bracket
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/3...ket2ej8.th.jpg
and the brace
http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/8928/bracemq9.th.jpg
:toast:Quote:
Originally Posted by deees
here's to high pressure mounts!
great work man. kudos for pushing the envelope.
...
i too noticed my infinity clips were bending as i tightened the screws ...
:)
After I built my new rig, DS3 and E4300+Ninja 1100P, I was being told BY TAT that I was idling at around 48-50C. 1st run I spread the AS5 all over, the 2nd run (remount)I used the dab in the middle and squish it down method. Didnt make any diff. So I decided to lapp and pressure mount to help get temps down as remounting the Ninja alone did nothing.
I went to ACE hardware and they had everything I needed, and they sold wet/dry sandpaper by the sheet. So $.80 for 1 sheet was way better than $4-5 for a pack of each grit. I only did 220, 400, and 600.
When I gave the CPU and HS the razor test they both looked like this:
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/1...0004pv0.th.jpg
So I basically had a clam shell between the two.
My workbench:
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1...0001sb3.th.jpg
After a few beers, ohh and some work:
http://img468.imageshack.us/img468/9...0021qy1.th.jpg
The 600grit it starting to reflect pretty nicely but I hear beyond this it is VERY diminishing returns. I could have run some Weimens polish on it to make it LOOK better than it is but IDK, its flat and thats what I want.
I only used a single 1/4" washer and a felt type insulator washer under the mainboard. On top, I just used a 1/4" washer top and bottom of spring. I also bought springs that were probably heavier then needed.
Finished:
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/5...0025fm4.th.jpg
This took a solid 8C off my load temps. Later I found out that TAT uses a Tjunction max temp of 100C on L2 stepping instead of 85C so that it is reporting temps 15C too high. So I use SpeedFan now because it still uses 85C. But I am running 3.0Ghz @ 1.35v. Not stellar but good enough. DS3 rev 3.3's dont like high FSB on E4300's so Im limited in my OC choices. But I run about 27C idle and 48C max load. But to keep things in perspective, The C2D's dont have any way to read the DTS by software so any temps by any program are really arbitrary since they are merely a best guess based on a furmula using Tj max aproximated as either 85C or 100C plus a base temp determined by the CPU type. So all temps are relative, not absolute. Thats my relatively noob and vague understanding of the temps anyways.
Anyone know the screw and nut size for a the standard northbridge mounting holes?
M3 works perfectly, already tried on 3 mobos: DFI LP NF4 Ultra-D, DFI ICFX3200 -T2R/G and abit AB9 QuadGT. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by james111