:banana::banana::banana::banana: i will the Card give more Vcore an Vmem
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:banana::banana::banana::banana: i will the Card give more Vcore an Vmem
Hey!
Sry but i don't understand electronics too much.
What will be the vgpu if i would pencil the horizontal resistor under the power chip (this with vsense)?
http://e-danek.info/shared/opis.jpg
What would do connecting these 2 points?
Greetz
e-danek,
Do not pencil that. Besides, that horizontal SMD is not a resistor.
And btw, the blue "GND" in your pic is not ground (GND).
Moving the jumpers on my Galaxy GT sure helped. Went from 710 max core to 756 :)
And AFAIK, the fan issue is now on every single Galaxy card with the new coolers. Rev2. & Rev3. Only way to fix issue is to flash the card.
So what should i do?
http://iax-tech.com/video/8800gt/modpoint2.jpg
Is this the right method for mod?
http://www.altron.com.pl/cgibin/shop...2&sid=24b84f5a Is this good VR?
e-danek,
You might find an answer if you would read atleast the first post in this very thread.
You know, there's a reason why this thread is called "8800GT voltage mods".
;)
edit:
Anyways, that pic does show one of the correct methods.
Oh thx for help :) But is there another point to solder than this under chip? It's very small so it's easy to do some mistakes.
EDIT: Oh i see 3 another points to solder in your 1st post. Can i solder them together?
Yes you can bridge them with solder to make one big solder point.
OK, BIG thanks for help :)
Could anyone please answer this? Even if it's a no answer, i'd like to know it for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Luka_Aveiro
I'd be grateful if someone with a DMM that can measure capacitance would measure the value of this surface mount capacitor (no desoldering needed for the measuring):
Attachment 70130
ziddey,
Huh?
It seems 1.68v was too much for this unlucky mosfet on my card.
Attachment 70231
wow, mosfet went before the core fried. nice
Too bad the fet's part number is next to impossible to trace.
Have no idea even who makes those things.
largon - modding my GTS right now, dont think my DMM supports measuring capacitance :(
I get 27.75 ohms across it though..
edit
going to see if I can find my other DMM's.. maybe one of them can.
edit
none I have can measure capacitance, sorry :(
excuse my ignorance on this but is it possible to bridge only two? or maybe all the four points (no problem with the big solder drop on the pcb here?) ?Quote:
Originally Posted by largon
Yes you can. Technically, the points are already bridged.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pacha
wow i was waiting for someone to post this happening. I was sure removing the resistors for the 'dodgey OCP' mod (which also disables phase current sharing if done this way hint hint) would result in someone burning a fet, and here it is. Too bad mate. Maybe next card do the mod the right way and it might live & also be able to give the card 1.68v :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by largon
EDIT - if you dont know what i mean, the 'correct' way to do the OCP mod is as Viper John posted, same principle as the G80 GTS OCP mod i posted. Removing the resistors is a good way to risk burning your cards.
i dont remember were i found this pic if it was in this thread or not. i saved it cuz it was said to be the 8800gt gpu pencil mod. but i just looked at my card real quick and cant seem to find that area. i have a lot of heatsinks all over my card:) so cant see a lot. was wondering if anybody can see this or not. i am a little buzzed right now lol.
That looks like a specified PCB.. or maybe 6x or 7x series card?
i know it doesnt look like mine. but if you right click and save pic its 8800gtgpu. thats the name i saved it as cuz thats wut the mod was. so i guess were i got this pic from is wrong.
I have a broken fx3500 at home it compares to a 7900GS , I'll check if the mosfets are the same . If they are you can have it . Hopefully they are.Quote:
Originally Posted by largon
leoftw,
You are too kind. :)
Unfortunately it appears 7900GS has different type of mosfets onboard... [edit: On a closer look, the fets on 7900GS/FX3500 do appear to compatible with those on 8800GT, and on top of that, they are rated for higher output currents]
But infact, I've already made some inquiries and it turned out that it is possible that I would receive replacement parts during this week already.
;)
Hi,
Since i shorted my 3850 :(, i had no choice but to go buy a 8800GT ... volt-modded, the RIGHT way this time, clean and tidy, put the iron on the wire ... voila soldered, didn't have to redo it a dizzillion times.
Well, a 200$ lesson on the 3850 :P.
Anyway, here're my results ... 1.12v got me ...
http://www.ahmedosama.com/files/8800specs.PNG
Using the Zalman VF700-Cu i had for ages, got me 40c idle, and 70c load.
For some reason i can get to 850 and 2000 shader, using 1.3v, but not stable, i think it's a heat issue, or maybe the powersupply, but i'm happy with what i got so far, i'm limited by the CPU anyway, so no need to be greedy.
Just a question though, my BIOS version is xx.92.16.xx.xx, i found the most recent BIOS is one from eVGA, version xx.92.A3.xx.xx, it has different clocks, and relaxed timings, i reset them to be the same as my card.
My question is ... would there be ANY benefit from using this newer BIOS, i included both BIOS'.
Thanks.
I have 41 degrees load temp under ati tool with 832 core 965 memory. Seems stable at 1.35 load volts. I was wondering if 1.4 is a safe 24/7 load voltage as long as my load temps stay under 45 degrees? what is the highest recommended 24/7 voltage?
I'm running 820 at 1.26v load, why are you using such a high voltage? (70 load temp)
at 1.3 volts i couldn't run 830 stable. plus my load temps are only 43 max so far w/ pretty cool ambient temps, but even then i don't think it will go over 50.Quote:
Originally Posted by os008
edit* room is pretty warm now after running heater and it is about 49-50
If I only reflash this bios for my Asus 8800GT can I get more MHz Core ?Quote:
Originally Posted by os008
or I must do same mechanic hit to my vga (means voltmod etc.
mundi, i'm posting those BIOS' for any expert to compare them, NOT as modified ones, do NOT use the e-VGA one, it has 1000 RAM clock, which is rumored to be buggy.
Please read my post with those attached files to know why i posted them.
Thanks.
Here are the Palit 8800GT non-reference voltage mods and measure points
(developed by Nick Rimer and tested by Droperidolum (i.e. me :) ) from Overclockers.ru):
http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/2...inalgo2.th.jpg
Please note before making this mod that you need to improove coling, especially on mosfet and coils, cause on 1.25V-1.30V it becomes very hot!
Some photos and default/overclock@1.36V/2.10V results screens you can find here (in Russian).
This mod also suitable to some XpertVision, Gainward and MSI non-reference cards based on this PCB design.
Good luck!
I'm kinda a noob when it comes to voltage and resistance, but how do you guys are able to go from 1,2V to 1,4V for the vGPU mod? You change the resistance from 500 ohms to 1K ohms? What is the required ohms to have 1,35V for exemple? Thanks
you reduce resistance in order to increase the voltage. so you spin the variable resistor, spinning to reduce resistance will increase voltage. i don't know what the corresponding resistance is though for certain voltages, i just measured the voltage doing one turn at a time until i got the voltage i wanted. I fired up the system, checked the voltage, when i wanted more voltage, i turned it off, spun the resistor and then fired it up again to see what voltage change i saw. After you do a bunch of turns, the voltage starts to increase more rapidly.Quote:
Originally Posted by S1mon-
Ohhh ok now I get it you gotta spin that little thing to play with the voltage :) I might try that mod but the resistor are so small it seems like i will touch something else and I'll kill my card... Is there a tutorial where I could see what kind of equipment I need?Quote:
Originally Posted by zbomb5610
Nice!Quote:
Originally Posted by Droperidolum
But, I doubt the "buck-mod" for lower vMEM will do any good on a board with Samsung GDDR3 such as the Palit one in the pic. Samsungs chips are whole lo different to Qimonda, they actually like higher vMEM.
That`s right. I had a 512MB card with 8 chips of Qimonda and now have 1024 with 16 chips of Samsung, so rising mod is reasonably to do on Samsung and lower mod - on Qimonda.Quote:
Originally Posted by largon
largon, can you help us to find out whats the second RT9259A needed for, except one that controlls Vmem?
GDDR3 vDDQ comes to mind first.
edit:
Can't be the vDDQ as it appears vDD and vDDQ are fed from the same regulator...
largon, but on the nearest, cond there are Vgpu... :confused:
And nearest coil is much smaller than others.
What can I do to know its purpose?
Hey, just a thought for all you 24/7 gamers with these card volt modded and overclocked. I was able to have ati stable with no artifacting for at least an hour with 830core and 2200 shadder, but in certain games, speficially timeshift and f.e.a.r. I had to lower the shadder way down to 1900 and the core to 760, to get it to run through the whole game with out shutting down. For reference I'm usingv 1.33v idle, and 1.39 full load.
Also does anyone else still have the problem in vista where after you resume from standby the video card crashes after a few minutes, Im using vista x64, any help would be greatly appreciated.
I had the exact same issue, was using 1.28v though, had to lower it from 850/2000 (stable in ATiTool), to 820/1900. Increasing the voltage didn't help, and in the end reduced it to 1.22v, which was the same as 1.28v in terms of stability.
Maybe it's just a heat issue, we might need a more extreme cooling system.
What temp is yours mine idles in the low 30's and I think maxes out at 45, usually only hits about 42 tho.
hi there.
A friend of mine has an Albatron 8800GT Short PCB
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/4796/dsc01317yu8.jpg
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5517/dsc01318lx8.jpg
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5896/dsc01322gp4.jpg
And i cant find anything about vgpu on that board.
Does anyone have a clue about this board?
os008 & scottc19 - Have you guys done the OCP mod?
no I didnt think ocp kicked in that low, does it? Also, how to do the ocp mod seems unclear, as someone stated that removing the resistor completly is not a good idea, and the only other method I have seen posted here was that of viper johns however, the picture that went with his post is no longer available. So does anyone have a picture or a clear explanation of what to do?
I personally wouldn't recommend removing the "OCP resistors" (78X) completely - replacing those burned fets are a PITA. Luckily there's another way. The method described in G80 OCP -thread works on G92 based cards too. Basically it means you solder three resistors to the OCP circuit parallel to certain SMCs (surface mount capacitors).
It goes like this:
Attachment 70701
Note that only the two upper resistors are needed for G92GT as the reference PCB has two active vGPU phases.
Resistor value of 1.2kΩ is not set in stone, lower values cripple the OCP even further, but it is possible adding Rs of considerably lower value would interfere with the controller chip's ability to maintain balance between the phases. Higher value Rs are safe but the gained headroom becomes smaller the higher you go.
Just finished replacing the burned mosfet.
The card didn't wake up.
:(
Typing this on a G92GTS.
:)
Yes it can. It can kick in around 1.3v (idle). Run AquaMark3 to bring out OCP. Right before the score displays the current spikes, and you can tell if OCP is holding you back.Quote:
Originally Posted by scottc19
VJ recommended ~4k value resistors to get an additional 25-30% more OCP headroom. That should be plenty unless you're going extreme cooling.
Hey, thanks a lot largon and jason. I just did the mod and have completed a few tests at 810core 2214 shader, it seems stable wich is awesome! Now on to the next delimma my memory, my memmory wasnt stable to begin with I think the max i have run stably is 930 maybe 920, im doing tests now and sadly my default mem was 950. This is still the same unless the ocp mod has anything to do with helping this which I'm pretty sure it does not. Did anyone figure out how to lower voltage to mem or should I try to raise it. Or will I just have to live lower mem than stock? Any ideas appreciated.
My vRAM wouldn't run stock either, and mine was 900 stock! I had to run 885 to get it stable through 8 loops of Battle of Proxycon 3Dm03. Luckily I caught the problem before doing any modding, and it is currently in RMA. I should be getting the replacement tomorrow!
Lowering the voltage to the memory has helped several people w/ the Qimonda chips.
Can someone explain what OCP is and what the OCP mod does to help stability?
OCP = over current protection.
The mod raises the limit at which OCP kicks in, meaning you can run higher voltages and higher clock speeds without the card shutting down.
this is very useful! and without that bus narrowed down to 256 bit for G92GT, it could have been easy to vmod a gt with 1G of memory way beyond the reach of Ultra!
I definitely need to volt mod my 8800GT. Just need to find out the best way to do it lol.
How high do think its relativly safe to push core voltage as long as you can keep the core close to 50c, becuase I'm not woried about the core blowing up, im worried about breaking a mosfet or something? As far as cooling goes, i have an mcw60 on core and swiftechs heatsink set on the chips, with artic silver 5 + superglue. Right now I dont have a fan on them, but I suppose I could go find one and put it on there... Does anyone run 1.5 -1.55v?
I know I might sound a little ridiculous but how can I check my actual vGPU using a multimeter... I have done some physics in college but it's definitely scaring me hehe. Am I only suppose to touch one vGPU spot with a multimeter and it will give me the voltage? Do I need to do that when the card is running? Is there any risks that I short-circuit my card if my hand is a little bit shaky?
Thanks
Set dmm to 20VDC
black probe to ground
red probe to vgpu measure point (while card is running)
dont bridge the measure point to another point with the red probe or you may get sparks, card shutdown, damage or all of the above.
if you cant get your hand to stop shaking, try to calm down, and clapping, hard, once or twice may help reduce the shaking.
but youre only measuing something so just chill out and measure it :up:
The red probe can touch multiple vGPU measuring points at the same time - but nothing else.
Not ridiculous at all... we all started out at the same starting line.Quote:
Originally Posted by S1mon-
Scaring you... it should - your physics college hasn't gone completely to waste if you know enough that you can easily turn all those long hours of work into a paperweight.
Now back to buisness. As with anything you just need a bit of practice. Start off with some battery devices (ie DC). Next, pop open a mouse or some USB device and while computer is on, practice using multimeter set to voltmeter. USB devices are cheap to replace, and use low power (<5V, <3Watt). Now, a mouse flat on the desk it easy to "disect", but a video card inside a case is tricky.
Get some extra 4 pin "molex" (black, red, black, yellow) power extension cables, cut in middle and solder each of 4 wires to some measuring points. Glue or tape to the case or the card (vertically point up is best). So, you should have something like this :
where the vGPU will be attached to measuring point, the ground attached to ground, and the nu are not used. Now you can stick in the probes into holes 1 and 4 (doesnt matter whether red or black probe), and get real time measurement of vGPU without using hands. It doesnt matter which cables or holes you use, but its a bit more dangerous using holes next to each other because the probes can lean against each other and short citcuit. Highly recommended you tape over all exposed wires that you soldered.Code:1 2 3 4
________________
| | | | |
| | | | |
|___|___|___|___|
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
vGPU nu nu ground
The mod-guide pic shows some easy vGPU measuring points.
For example, the row of violet dots just some pixels below the caption "G92 voltage mods" is perfectly safe to poke with a DMM probe. No need to worry about shorting things as you can touch multiple individual dot at the same time - they're connected to each other anyways.
So all you need to do is stick the black DMM probe in a black (ground) slot of any a molex 4pin plug and poke one or more of the violet dots with the red probe.
Anyone find some vmods for Galaxy 8800GT 3phase - short PCB?
Thx!
Doesn't that have the factory volt mod done on it? The little jumper on the top of the card?
yeah but i need more Volts :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Renegade5399
I'll do the vRAM, vGPU and OCP mods next weekend with some silverglue. I'll let you guys know how it turns out :)
Maybe I'll even do some tests with aluminium loaded glue (I have very fine Al for painting).
i had the volt mod done on my 8800gt running at around 1.35 volts under load w/o any problems, i even did some thorough testing but wasn't getting much stable above 780 core and 1950 shader, so i thought the ocp mod might help out, at first it seemed that the ocp mod was helping out w/ stability at higher clocks, but then the temp was rising a little higher than i wanted it to, around 70, started to throw a few errors, and then the comp shut down. The comp would not power back up again, gave a loud whining noise, everything powered on fine w/o the 8800gt power pin in but nothing on the monitor, so i popped in my 6600 and it worked fine, so i had a dead 8800gt after the ocp mod at 1.4 volts load. just thought i would let you guys know. I got the 8800gt replaced, but I doubt i would run over 1.3 volts now and I probably wouldn't do the ocp mod. Maybe I just had some bad luck, who knows, but the soldering was done perfectly. used 1.2k resistors for the ocp mod also.
im runnin an asus 8800gt with vgpu and ocp mod but they are removed from the card. i run whats in my sig for 24/7 and have been running that for weeks. i ran as high as 1.48 loaded around 900 core for a lil while with no problems. just heard a little high pitch noise comin from the card at that voltage i didnt like that at all but then its not so xtreme i would say:).
I killed my 8800GT over the weekend as well. I finally got it back from a month long RMA due to the holidays, and proceeded to bury it after only a few days! I did all the mods w/ excellent soldering work, and used 3.92k resistors for OCP.Quote:
Originally Posted by zbomb5610
I was running it w/ the HR03GT and a nice high CFM Panaflo fan. I put HS's on everything I could. Got it up to 864/2000/1026 at 1.36 idle. Didn't feel comfortable going any higher on the voltage on air. Temps were getting to 52*C w/ ATI Tool. I decided to run the FUR stability test b/c I know it can get the cards hotter than ATI Tool. Walked-away for a second, and when I came back the PC was off, and pressing the power button yielded no result. A flip of the PSU switch allowed the PC to flash on for a 1/2 second , but still no boot. I put my 8800GTS-512 back in and it works fine now.
I disassembled all mods and card still doesn't work. 2 possible culprits.
(1) I see that one of the wires to the vGPU mod had some of it's insulation melted away (didn't see this until I removed the mod). This could be from it laying across a hot chip/component. It may have shorted out, but I don't think this is the culprit.
(2) I cranked down the bolts on the cooler pretty hard. I could see a definite bend in the card PCB. I backed off a turn on each screw, but it was still bent a little bit. I think I may have mounted the cooler unevenly (my 1st mount on an exposed die) and it appears the corner of the die is chipped off a bit. I think the combination of the improper mount and the higher temps proved to be too much for the poor silicon die! :down:
My 1st gfx card volt mod started out great, but ended in an unfortunate disaster!
I might post some pics later...I forgot to bring my camera's flash card to work.
Thinking it was my mount, and not some bad soldering work (it looked darn good if I must say) I proceeded to volt mod my 8800GTS-512. (I know....I'm stubborn, but I have a much better 'feel' for how to mount the cooler now) I've got it all running now w/ the HR03GT on it and the vGPU mod, and vMem buck mod. It was late when I finished all that, though, so no results yet, but the card is idling happily at 39*C w/ my previous OC of 771/1944/1062. For now the VRs are tuned to max resistance. I'll start ramping it up tonight if the wife isn't feeling too needy. I'll post results in the appropriate thread. :up:
Hmm, well I have been having better luck so far. Im at 1.5v load temps have never got above 45C yet. I have a fan running to cool the mosfets which are also heavily heatsinked... they get really hot without a fan. I also have a sink on the mosfet on the back of the card. Anyway I have been running this 24/7 for serveral days now and have achieved stable 900core, 2265 shader, 1000 memory. I hope mine doesnt crap out too? I did ocp mod with two 1.2k resistors measured them before hand and they were both 1.183k. My card seems straight with no bends and no chips. Sorry to hear about your guys cards, maybe ill soon be joining you guys lol :confused:
that sucks man, mine was doing the 1/2 second quick flash on as well and then nothing. funny thing is I was running ati tool and the fur benchmark at the same time, seems like that fur filled donut killed both of our cards.Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
Has anyone else tried the FUR donut at high clocks? Don't do it if you haven't already, as I don't want you to kill anything, but if you have already then let us know how much higher your temps went (compared to other stress tests like ATI Tool, Crysis, etc.)?Quote:
Originally Posted by zbomb5610
AmenQuote:
Originally Posted by scottc19
I think power regulation circuitry cooling is more important than people realize. Afterall, we're no longer talking about grandpa's old GF4 days, back when video cards didn't need external power connectors and memory and MOSFETs lay naked as the almighty had made em.
Turn on a 100W lightbulb. Wait 5min. Grab and hold it with your hands. Hot huh? Using a power adapter for a for router or battery charger... the power adapter gets pretty hot no? I think its safe to assume for higher power video cards, stress and heat on power regulation circuitry increases proportionally. Even more so with overvolting and overclocking.
Its tiny 65nm. I would stick below 1.4V, and heatsinks and a fan on MOSFETS and VREG chips is a must. I haven't heard anybody here kill a 8800 by cooling it too much, or making too small voltage increase.
so i got a replacement for the bfg 8800gt that blew on me, but the new one is a blueish green pcb and it has a white looking layer on top of all the points on the card (mainly the voltage mod point), plus this card doesn't clock as well as the one i blew which sucks.
anybody?Quote:
Originally Posted by OverClocker_gr
Well well, my late 8800GT died during FUR benchie too...
f117,
I can't do anything with those pics. Cellphones are no good for photographing circuits, let alone for macro. ;)
my advice would be to everybody who owns or is buying a 8800gt. do not run fur bench as i havent and i have no stablilty issues or lockups at 876/20xx/1902 at 1.3 idle and 1.38 load. running great knock on wood.
+1. If you can pass ATI Tool, 3DMark0X loops, and games run fine there is no reason to tempt fate. 3 dead cards already...the stats don't look good for FUR!Quote:
Originally Posted by natedog420
Boycott FUR if you voltmod!
*Has anyone volt-modded, ran FUR, and can live to tell the story?
Before the bugger died @ 1.68v I had had ran FUR heavily overvolted for a looong time. So I wouldn't jump to a conclusion that "FUR kill G92s" so lightly, it doesn't make much sense anyways. For example, when my card died it was OCP modded (the stupid way) and a mosfet burned consequently shorting the GPU.
I'm quite certain FUR didn't kill my card. ;)
I killed it.
just for giggles how high did you get clocks at 1.68v before it died?
Good point. I think my bad mount killed mine. This may be more coincidence than anything else. Still it probably isn't a bad idea to be extra careful if you decide to run FUR while volt-modded. I was running it full screen, and wish I had run it windowed so I could monitor temps more carefully.Quote:
Originally Posted by largon
I remember you posting that you replaced the MOSFET and the card didn't come back to life. Do you have any ideas on what other component died w/ the MOSFET?
Edit: re-read your post. So, you think the core shorted out? Can you see any evidence of this? Is it even possible to see evidence of a fried core? I know my Southbridge fried on a P4P800E-Deluxe Mobo I had from a static discharge via USB. I could actually see a small blister on the plastic casing of the chip.
scottc19,
I don't remember exactly but it was at something like: 900 / 2500 / 1100 when it died.
jason4207,
No visible evidence except that DMM reads GPU-2-GND resistance to be pretty much non-existant.
So, does that mean you can still boot? zbomb and I only get a 1/2 second power flash.Quote:
Originally Posted by largon
Hey guys, guess I'm in the club now too.. I attempted this mod last weekend since my OC is severely limited by voltage, even with the stock cooler (core @ 715, with the 1.1v BIOS mod loaded around 45c, would jump to 46 after an hour of crysis), and my XFX alpha dog (black PCB, so sexy :D ) is now dead, may she rest in peace :(
Anyway, I'm trying to figure out what went wrong, as it never booted up after the mod. The only thing my friends or I could come up with is that the main soldering point couldn't touch the three surrounding optional points, but from what I've read, that's fine. The computer still 'boots', but it hangs before POSTing, so I've checked the voltage with my dad's old school analog multimeter (after desoldering everything) and it shows zero. I'm going to check with a friend's DMM this weekend and see if that also shows zip, then I'll decide what to do from there. Any ideas on what went wrong / any way to fix it are greatly appreciated.
hard to tell anything without pics. The "3 points" are all connected in the PCB so it doesnt matter if you do a crappy job.. like me ;)
edit - have you measured the resistance from the mod point to ground? Maybe your VR was set incorrectly.
I like to use a magnifying glass and strong light to triple-check everything. Also, taking the 'beep' feature of the DMM and checking to see that you have conductivity where you want it, and don't have conductivity where you don't want it are good steps to take. You can also measure resistance at a few key locations. Typical Ohm ratings are spread throughout this thread and the GTS thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deluge
Make sure you tuned the VR to max resistance, and not the other way around! Since you have desoldered everything, is there still a lot of solder mess on the board? It's good to have a solder wick or suction to clean up the mess.
I haven't looked at an analog MM in years. How well does the one you used scale at these low voltages? I'd definitely recommend using the DMM.
Do you have any pics?
Here's some food for thought. I was doing some testing on my GTS last night. Idle voltages were 1.35v. ATI Tool load was 1.4v. 3DMark06 load was 1.42v. I remember having different load voltages depending on the app w/ my GT, but this could turn into a problem if FUR stresses the card so bad that the load voltage jumps up even higher. I wasn't measuring voltage when I ran FUR before.Quote:
Originally Posted by largon
Does anyone have any readings they can share that show how different apps increase load voltages by different amounts? I'm very curious if FUR might of increased my load voltage astronomically to unsafe levels.
My 1.68v was during a FUR run. 1.63v on desktop.
Yeah, the first time I booted it was at ~700 ohms (I used a 1k), I checked the VR legs and then the solder joints to the board. I tuned it down to ~400 ohms, then back up to 1k to make sure that wasn't the problem. I got a voltage reading one of the times (pretty sure it was at 400) of .18 to .21, but it varied too much so I figured it was wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
I got my friend's DMM at school today (security guards thought it was a weapon :rofl: ) so I used the conductivity option to check pretty much everything I could think of. Everything seems right except the main solder point isn't connected to any of the 3 surrounding points. After a closer look, it seems like all the solder's gone (see pics) so I'll be adding some later.Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
That was the first thing I checked, booted up at ~700 ohms the first time and then tuned it up and down (while the computer was off, of course) to see if it would work with more or less resistance. I was extremely careful to clean everything of excess solder, took me a good 2 hours.Quote:
Make sure you tuned the VR to max resistance, and not the other way around! Since you have desoldered everything, is there still a lot of solder mess on the board? It's good to have a solder wick or suction to clean up the mess.
I checked with the DMM a few minutes ago and it shows zero too, so I guess the analog one isn't all bad :shrug:Quote:
I haven't looked at an analog MM in years. How well does the one you used scale at these low voltages? I'd definitely recommend using the DMM.
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/6...6314tu7.th.jpghttp://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2...6309tx5.th.jpghttp://img138.imageshack.us/img138/1...6316pv4.th.jpg
(click for full size)
It looks like you got some solder on the resistor to the right of the main solder point. Did you short that connection?
Also, the board looks dirty. Did you clean it well w/ some alcohol before you began the work? Was your soldering iron clean? Did you hold the iron on there too long? I like to get a little solder on the tip of the wire (tinned), and then just get it positioned and do a quick solder, so as to not heat up the components too much. If you try and hold the iron w/ 1 hand, and the solder coil w/ the other you end up using way too much solder, get things too hot for too long, and you have a mess on your hands.
You booted up at 700Ohms? Did you measure that while the mod was in place? It should have a reading closer to 13-15Ohms iirc when measured w/ the mod in place. With the mod in place you can't just measure the VR you are measuring the whole circuit. What I did was measure the VR before I installed it, and figured out that I wanted to turn it clockwise to turn up the voltage (like turning up the volume), so I used the legs that allowed that to happen, and cut off the other leg. Then I turned the VR counter-clockwise while I watched the resistance increase until the VR 'clicked'. That was max resistance and it was around 470Ohms. Then I soldered it on there, and cranked it up as needed while measuring voltage.
The solder on the resistor to the right was an accident after I cleaned everything up, it never touched anything else, though.
I never cleaned the board, but the soldering iron was clean. I'm sure the soldering iron wasn't on too long, I added a small drop of solder to the tip of the wire, then held it in place and heated it until the solder melted.
Yeah, the 700 ohms was when it was all in place. What do you mean by the whole circuit? A vGPU point to ground, or..?
I did the opposite you did, clockwise = more resistance, and since I used a 1kohm VR, I decided to start at ~700 because of the previous BIOS vmod. Never really got a chance to play with the voltage, though :(
Its hard to tell from the pics as only 1 of them is not blurry. It looks to me like the board might have gotten too hot, it sort of looks like the points around it melted a bit... I dont know for sure, because I'm just looking at the picture. I think this is what jason is refering to as looking dirty. Maybe you should use the beep feature or check resistance on the dmm and see if the point where you soldered is connected to the point where you spilled the solder. (the point to the right). Maybe its touching a trace or something.
When the mod is in place it is impossible to measure the resistance of just the VR. There are other paths for the electrons to take w/n the circuitry on the board, and you will be measuring the accumulated resistance of all those possible paths to ground. When you measure the main solder point to ground (or just try to measure the VR while it is attached to the board) you should get somewhere b/n 10-15Ohms. I'm getting 11.1Ohms right now at 1.35v idle. If you're reading 700Ohms something is definitely wrong unless you have removed the VR or it isn't connected properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deluge
I don't think it matters that you did the BIOS mod as I did the same thing. I do know that the 500Ohm is a little better to use, but you should be able to get by just fine w/ the 1k. It always best to tune to max resistance before you attach the VR b/c the more resistance there is the more it is like there is no mod there at all. Infinite resistance already exists b/n any 2 given points on the board through the air, so adding a high value resistor has the least amount of effect on the overall circuit.
I prefer to get it setup where turning clockwise increases voltage just b/c it is easier for me to remember. I also did the vmem buck mod to reduce memory voltage, and since decreasing resistance decreases voltage w/ that mod it is wired the opposite way, but the end result is that I turn counter-clockwise to reduce the vmem voltage. It doesn't matter which way you do it as long as you remember it correctly. Of course if your watching the voltage w/ a DMM you'd know pretty quickly which is the correct way to turn.
Here's a pic I borrowed from earlier in the post...thanks Dinos22!
http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/8526/tarceua6.jpg
You can see the trace in question. Make sure you have full connectivity from the IC leg all the way to the main solder point or at least to the last resistor. I'm not sure where the circuit or if the circuit continues below the surface to a lower level, or if it just travels through the SMC/R's from this point, but if you don't have full connectivity along the red trace I drew the you could at least try and make a solder bridge to reconnect and possibly save the card. All points along the red line are the same point in the circuit.
Here are some pics of my adventure last weekend guys. I tried to take lots of pics of the GT along the way, but I kind of rushed the GTS, so i don't have as many pics.
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/162...hersgm1.th.jpghttp://img404.imageshack.us/img404/2...hr03ee8.th.jpghttp://img250.imageshack.us/img250/3...areaww9.th.jpghttp://img253.imageshack.us/img253/9...ableak1.th.jpghttp://img244.imageshack.us/img244/7883/gtat1.th.jpg
---Brothers-------------GT+HR03GT-----------Kitchen work bench-------Operating table-----GT trembling w/ fear!
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--Primarion--------------Easy Access------------vmem buck mod---------OCP mod [3.92k]--------all 3 mods----
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/5...oleryg0.th.jpghttp://img182.imageshack.us/img182/7...olerjj4.th.jpghttp://img209.imageshack.us/img209/6...irtyqg9.th.jpghttp://img250.imageshack.us/img250/3...leanlo4.th.jpg
---pre-testing-----------remove stock HS-------------Dirty GPU-------Clean GPU!-----
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/1...tioncj5.th.jpghttp://img152.imageshack.us/img152/8...ion2di3.th.jpghttp://img341.imageshack.us/img341/8...seuppu6.th.jpghttp://img214.imageshack.us/img214/4...eterla8.th.jpg
------Gt in action-----------same-----------------Close-up-----That's vmem, not vGPU!
I meant to take some pics of the card out of the case w/ all the mods, and HR03GT attached, but apparently I was too eager to get the card in the case!
If you read my above posts you know the GT didn't survive the weekend. I put it back to stock, and reused my mods on the GTS. No need to do OCP again, though.
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/8...eup2zi4.th.jpghttp://img149.imageshack.us/img149/2...eup3bl4.th.jpghttp://img293.imageshack.us/img293/2...erigle1.th.jpghttp://img247.imageshack.us/img247/8...rig2zl8.th.jpg
------GTS in action!----------Underside--------Ain't she a beaut?------better angle-----
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---More GTS------------------Night shot------------same--------
If you look at my avatar you might also be able to see the 25cm fan placed below the gfx card to help keep the RAMside cool while testing.
Hey Jason, could you please tell me why you reduced the V-Mem? seems odd, don't you want to increase it to overclock better?! or do those chips respond better to lower voltage because of heat or other reasons? and what kind are your chips? thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
@Deluge
I feel what you're in right now, i messed up my 3850 the same way you did exactly. I used way too much heat on the soldering point, to the extent that the traces got burnt, and the resistor nearby got out of place. I replaced that resistor and it worked again. Got greedy and made the volt-mod again, but if you looked at the board before that last volt-mod you'd pitty it, it was a MESS.
Now you'd guess everything was fine, it was, i got the card from 667 to 950, stable and great ... BAM, shorted the PCI-e cable poles, imagine, losing the card NOT to the volt-mod, but to n00000000bness :P.
Anyway, i learnt my lesson, and took the pictures of mods posted by experts here as reference ... presoldered the wire, fixed it in place with glue BEFORE soldering it, meaning ... look at Jason's mod, you'll notice he used a stickie substance below the wire on the board. THEN soldered it in place with just touching the iron to the tip of the wire for 1 or 2 seconds, and i was done. Put the card in place and voila, it worked, thanks God.
So it paid off losing the first card; became more aware and a bit more tidy :), though a very expensive lesson :(.
EDIT: Thought i would add the picture of my mod, though not very clear.
http://www.ahmedosama.com/files/cardcooling4.jpg
The vbuck mem mod will work better for quimoda mem chips, like those on the 8800gt, from what I understand the 8800gts has samsung mem chips, and as far as I know these work better with more voltage. I have done the buck mem mod on my 8800gt and went from 930mem max stable to 1000 mem stable. I dont know exactly why this is, but I seem to remember hearing from someone that the quimoda chips were already overvolted to begin with... Maybe someone can help me out and better explain it... Possibly Viper John, as he is the founder of this mod.:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by os008
The thing is, up to 1000 is already stable on this card, and on my previous 3850. But i indeed would like if someone could explain the reason please. And thanks for replying :).
Both my GT and GTS have Qimonda RAM chips. I wish I had some Samsung's! The way I understand it is that both the vRAM, and the memory controller are fed from the same voltage line. The vRAM by itself should respond better to more voltage, and I think the specs have them listed up to 2.5v. The problem arises b/c the memory controller doesn't respond well to voltage. So, if you start raising the voltage you are just making the controller crash, and that is seen as the memory avalanche.
There is a definite 'sweet spot' that I was able to find on both cards. The GT liked ~1.84v, and the GTS liked ~1.96v iirc. Dialing in that sweet spot actually had me making the smallest turns possible on the VR to find that spot b/n memory avalanche (red or green crap all over the screen) w/ lock-up if the voltage was too high, and just plain lock-up if the voltage was too low. Those last few changes I made to the VR in finding the sweet spot didn't even register on my DMM, but they did allow me to pass 8 loops of 'Battle of Proxycon' form 3DMark03 at 1 higher notch on the slider. On my GTS I started at 1062 stock to 1101 w/ the mod. That was pretty easy, but it was tedious work to get 1107. On my GT I was able to go from 1026 stock to 1056 w/ the mod, but had to go back down to 1044 after I increased the core/shader clocks and voltage.
I forgot to mention this above, but a big thanks goes out to Viper John for all his highly informative help he gave me via email. And also to all you guys here like Largon who helped to find these mods. I'm not sure who all found what, but kudos to you gentlemen. My knowledge has increased 10 fold in the past couple months as I've researched, prepared, and then accomplished these mods.
Thank you! :clap: :up:
Alright, well I found the problem, and it's not looking too good. The two resistors directly below the solder point (red) aren't there, and the resistor next to them (blue) may or may not be shot. It's reading 10ohms, is that normal? Anyway, what do you guys think - try to save it or eat the $283 and move on? I've got no money for a replacement, being 15 blows :shakes:
http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/9247/tarceua6rj2.jpg
Could always sell a kidney on the black market.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deluge
iirc I measured 18 ohms on my XFX on the blue resistor, but I could be wrong.
If the traces are still there it is fixable, but you would probably have to get a professional to do it.
Thank you for the explanation Jason.Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207