**Official DFI LanParty UT P35-T2R Review/Overclock/Guide Thread**

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Originally Posted by n00bstorm

So its normal?.... Ahh big relief... thanks!...
:up:



The PSU I'm using is the Ultra X3 1600W, here is two pictures if you wonder what it looks like.
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/2...4030kw4.th.jpg
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/4042/loltr9.th.jpg

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Is the PSU heavier than you? :) That PSU would not be friendly in my case... I'd def need a BTX case for that to fit right.

Guys... I just got my DFI T2R with the transpiper in today... I'm wondering if I should install the transpiper in the chassis or out... I don't wanna use that darn copper CPU plate... I'm throwin a D-Tek Fuzion into my loop, and think it may be stupid to use that copper CPU plate in case I mount the transpiper exterior to case.

What do you guys think?
-Should I mount transpiper inside case or outside case?
-If exterior, should I not use the copper plate between CPU and fuzion block?

I need to know soon (hopefully)... b/c I'm just staring at all my parts.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by n00bstorm

So its normal?.... Ahh big relief... thanks!...
:up:



The PSU I'm using is the Ultra X3 1600W, here is two pictures if you wonder what it looks like.
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/2...4030kw4.th.jpg
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/4042/loltr9.th.jpg

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That should be plenty enough wattage as long as your outlet/circuit can support it! Was just asking because my Q6600 was running my old power supply into the ground.

Empty

I'm sure there is no way you can use all that wattage out from a household outlet/circuit.

By the way guys when I get the new MB what should I do first? try the 667 memory in the very first slot and have just the PSU, MB, CPU, Video Card and Memory in? I just hope this does not happen again...
:(

Anyone know if this new bios corrects the droop mislabeling in the bios?

Hey Noobstorm
I get this issue all the time whenever the board has been powered down from the power supply over couple hours
I originaly thought this board was bad then found out some power supply's dont send a strong enough signal but i have a good power supply so that wasnt the issue, heres what i do now to get it back up it takes some patience but im sure your board will start, may get on the first try, make take a couple of hours, but if it hook up right and your power supply is working , itll start
1. move one stick of ram to any slot i pick the first or third but have booted on all
2.erase the cmos for 20m in with power supply off and no light on board
3.put battery back in wait another five minutes, and start
4.probably didn't start don't worry :P yet
5.next hold power button and power up main supply again do 5 or 6 time if the fans start power up and turn off continously just wait now another couple of min then try start aging to the board stays on

seems to be some wierd cold boot issue thought my board was dead three time's allready especialy since one time i got water on it but she always starts eventualy and runs solid

DFI LP UT P35-TNR
Intel Quad Core q6600 slacr 8/03/07 1.35v Fusion block
G.Skill F2-6400PHU1-2BHZ
cORSIAR HX 620W
EVGA 8800GTS A3 Core DD Full Block
Seagate 250 gig sata Raid-0
Seagate 250 gig sata Raid-0
Seagate 250 gig jbod
Seagate 400 gig jbod
Creative x-fi
Onboard Nic

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Originally Posted by cantankerous

Anyone know if this new bios corrects the droop mislabeling in the bios?

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Nothing to correct. It does exactly what it says.

VCORE Droop Control - The Intel specification for the control circuitry that limits voltage spikes from fast switching processor loading.

When set to disabled the voltage is held at the set value by disableing the above circuit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by g0dM@n

Guys... I just got my DFI T2R with the transpiper in today... I'm wondering if I should install the transpiper in the chassis or out... I don't wanna use that darn copper CPU plate... I'm throwin a D-Tek Fuzion into my loop, and think it may be stupid to use that copper CPU plate in case I mount the transpiper exterior to case.

What do you guys think?
-Should I mount transpiper inside case or outside case?
-If exterior, should I not use the copper plate between CPU and fuzion block?

I need to know soon (hopefully)... b/c I'm just staring at all my parts.

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anyone? :(

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Originally Posted by the_real_7

5.next hold power button and power up main supply again do 5 or 6 time if the fans start power up and turn off continously just wait now another couple of min then try start aging to the board stays on

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So hold down the power button and power up the PSU? If the C1 error shows... ignore it try that again 5-6 times? Then wait a couple of min and try again the same thing? Thanks for the heads up ill try that tomorrow before I take the MB out to have it replaced!

@nOObstorm,

I thinks Ultra is a brand to avoid with DFI mobos...

Actually now that you mention it I am pretty sure you are right on that.

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Well did any of you guys had the same problem when you first got yours? What kind of memory did you use to boot it up? Did it boot up right away or you had to mess with it?...

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Had the same problem with my board when it first arrived. I thought it was DOA until doing a thorough bios clear/cmos reset. Also, every now and then the board won't post with my OCZ sli sticks, but will be fine once I've booted with some lower voltage sticks. Funny board this.

yeah i getthe same kinda problems, my ocz's flex's C1 after cmos clear, but when i first got them they were fine, everything tested ok, even sent the board back once, but i ended up getting a stick of corsair xms2 to boot and get into the bios and set volts to 2.2.
Andrew

After following this thread for some time, it's quite clear when another user posts a question that's already been answered...it will be answered again wo/ hassle. Thanks for all your help and assistance XS team. I don't know what I'd do wo/ ya all. :up:

n00bstorm:
I had a P5B Deluxe that refused to play nice after a flash until I let it sit wo/ battery overnight. It ran just fine the next morning. Also, never been a fan of the Ultra line. I used the blue led OCZ Powerstream 520 w/ the LP nF4 DFI's and now a PC P&C 610 w/ LP P35 wo/ issue.

g0dM@n:
I agree w/ you on the copper pipe and there's a post awhile back that showed minimal gains from using it or the transpiper in general. Also...from the Raja/Gary guide:

"We found most of the heat that was transferred into the single heatpipe never quite made it past the elbow joint connecting to the dual pipe heatsink. The biggest gain in temperature reduction was realized by simply pointing a fan at the PWM heatsink itself."

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Originally Posted by empty1969a

That should be plenty enough wattage as long as your outlet/circuit can support it! Was just asking because my Q6600 was running my old power supply into the ground.

Empty

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hey is that you, the Arnie body/stunt double?:rofl:

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Originally Posted by pumbertot

hey is that you, the Arnie body/stunt double?:rofl:

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:clap:

I reccomend three sets of reps with the X3 1600: it'll PUmp You Up :rofl: :ROTF:

I tried using that pipe got real small drops in temp on nb and pwr put a small 50mm on nb and even with the bad contact becuse the heatsink has name on plate blocking it from good venting i got it down to 39c from 52c and got the pwr to like 60c load from 76c, figure that , When i take my board apart again in the future not now (becuase of wc) im going to break that middle part off the nb block so i can get some air on those fins, im sure it will drop another 6c :)

Hey Noobstorm how did you do with that board starting

I just put a 60mm over the PWM area and I got huge temp drops both idle and load:up:

Yeah, it's nice to have the branding...especially in a case w/ window. But it makes mounting a fan on top pretty useless. I can't fit one on either side due to the TRUE/88GTX sandwich, so it might just come off w/ Mr. Dremel. Couple questions:

1. void warranty?
2. what's a good quiet fan for this? quiet to me's a Scythe SFLEX E @ 1200RPM

Jodiuh
as for the dremel that one way i figure take it of and with some pliers about 3 twist back and forth and snap, a nice clean break take a close look at it youll see what I mean and for a fan and ordinary nb 40 or 50 will work wonders

1. void warranty hell ya , but who here is not voiding warranty one way or another
2. it is great heatsink once flaw is fixed, a small fan will work

I also had a problem with memory on this board, however did eventually manage to get to to post with one stick, in one of the slots, but to get to this point, i had to try 1 stick at a time in all 4 slots until one finally fired the board up and I could get into the bios to bump up the voltage enough to support all 4 sticks.

By the way, its Crucial Ballistix, 1 kit is a 2gb kit of 667mhz but I flashed the SPD to PC2-8000 1000mhz and the other kit is a 1gb already PC2-8000 (1000mhz).

However when ever I hit the need to clear the cmos, the board will not post again until I at least remove the 2gb Kit and just leave the 1gb kit in, I then have to pretty much boot into windows, shut down, pull the power cord, then insert the 2gb kit and away it goes, that part I dont get :confused:

Alright, I was thinking of getting this board, but I have a few questions. I just put in an Ultra X3 1000watt psu and it runs just fine with my Abit IP35 Pro, so why are a few of you here saying that Ultra psu's are recommended for use with DFI boards? What's the basis for this? 4 years ago I would have agreed with that statment, but Ultra has done a 180 in terms of quality. If the Ultra is good enough for Jonny Guru and recommended by him, then it should ok...

The other questions are:

1. I want to put this in a Lian-Li V2000 case and have to mount it upside down. Any harm in this and what could I do to keep the temps down.
2. Anyone running 4 sticks of 2gig ram? I read through every post here and couldn't find any mention of it.
3. I have an Areca ARC-1210 pci-e raid card. What's the post issue about? I read that a few people were complaining about one, but wasn't quite sure what it was. Is it OK to use that card with this board?

Thanks for any help and advice you can give. I plan on ordering this as soon as I here from the experts here.

Shawn

Thats like saying the Enermax Gallaxy 1000w should work no problems which one would think but it doesn't! Cant say for sure on the ULTRA deal but go to DIY-STREET and pull the list from the data base!

A quick look over on the DIY forums didn't reveal any glaring problem with Ultra psu's.

Any comments on the other couple of questions, especially the Areca 1210 card question?

NP with Areca at all and the bandwidth hit @ X4 is like 6 point difference on Sequecial Read but big hit in Burst Rate but that means moot unless you have multiple requests going in /out

So you are saying that the PSU i got its also bad for this motherboard?... I'm having the best time of my life right now... I spend extra $200 on memory just to *test* don't tell me I got to spend that much on another PSU unit just to *test*... and I need to return the MB but how the hell do you take this out?

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/2...0725ui5.th.jpg

Don't feel like braking the board in half just to get that stupid Thermalright bracelet in the back... ahh the joy of life... I feel like ending my life right about now...