haha, well it's a compliment to you that your case looks just like the real thing.
Printable View
haha, well it's a compliment to you that your case looks just like the real thing.
Motherboard Mounted
I got the Motherboard from my old system mounted as well as the PSU and wires to power everything. It took me a good bit of time to work out exactly where to put my wiring. I knew with this design that wire management was going to be an issue since I added the rad air chamber to the case, thereby eliminating that area for wiring to be hid.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g09/inside.jpg
Dual Pump Problem
I planned originally on having one DDC pump mounted in between the HD mount and air chamber.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/case1F-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/case1F-2.jpg
I made the mount, and test fitted it where I planned on it going.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...mpMount_v1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16..._v1TestFit.jpg
I mounted the hard drives and fan controller, and made the SATA power cable.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...hdMount_v1.jpg
Pump Mount v2 and HD Mount v2
I however ran into an issue. As I have been making this, I really wanted to be able to use 2 pumps for redundancy since my original DDC-1 is now about 2 1/2 years old, and I bought a new DDC3.1 anyway. Figuring this issue out has been a pain. I messed around with several different ways to mount two pumps, but with the wiring in place, nothing worked. So I went back and pulled from a different HD mount that I came up with earlier that would be thinner and allow for more room between the air chamber and HD mount.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/case1K-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/case1K-2.jpg
So I have been at work making another HD mount and pump mount.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16..._v2TestFit.jpg
I have two 1/2" rubber pieces for the pump to sit on between it and the acrylic mount. The one pump will feed directly into the second pump. The angle on the end of the XSPC block is going to make getting the tubing from the one pump outlet into the second pump inlet a bit tight, but hopefully some boiling water will fix this issue.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...mpMount_v2.jpg
I've made and painted the new HD mount
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...hdMount_v2.jpg
Pump Mounts v3
Well, after spending time looking at this pump mount scenario, I came to the conclusion that it simply isn't going to work well as I am going to have problems trying to get the line from the bottom of the rads to the GPU. So, back to the drawing board again. This time I think I've finally got the problem figured out. I'm repositioning the pumps again and changing the tubing routing. I think this will solve a number of problems regarding tubing routing and room for the wiring. The bottom pump feeds the bottom rad, and the bottom rad feeds the inlet of the second pump.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/case1M-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/case1M-2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/case1M-3.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/case1M-4.jpg
I made a nifty little mount using rubber stoppers for the bottom most pump with a small chipset fan underneath it that I have been using.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16.../pumpBase1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16.../pumpBase2.jpg
I've also made and mounted the second pump, but don't have a pic of it yet.
Trying to figure out exactly where to put a drain has been one other issue that I have been wrestling with on this case. I finally came up and made this fitting that will go between the bottom pump and the bottom barb on the rad. There is a 1/4" copper line that feeds down from the small barb through the bottom of the case that I will cap off. So in order to drain the setup, I merely have to park the case over the kitchen sink and remove the small cap from the line underneath. It is made from a 90 degree 1/2" copper street elbow, and 45 degree street, two PEX solder barbs, and a 1/4" hose mender cut almost in half and trimmed down and soldered into a hole I drilled.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g09/drain1.jpg
Here it is painted
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g09/drain2.jpg
I've also been busy on wiring. Simple things like a short connector for the pump power leads have to be made.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/splitter.jpg
The PCI-E wires that come with the PSU are of course too short to route neatly. I ordered PCI-E connectors from Performance-PCS. Since the page on their site however didn't mention needing to order pins along with the connectors, I got the connectors in sans any pins. I had to call them to find out which pins I needed and place another order and wait for it to come in with pins.
This is almost 60' of 18 gauge black wiring needed just to make the two PCI-E power wires. I squooshed on and soldered the pins today. I plan on sleeving them and putting them in place shortly. My daughter is holding them for the pic.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g09/Sarah2.jpg
I'm really very blessed as she is a good kid. She thinks this project is really neat and she likes it. She however wouldn't mind when I am done with this one if I made one like it for her.
Once I get the PCI-E cables in place, I have to finalize some connections and start putting tubing in place. I also have to make the SATA power cables. I bought a little $20 single unit burner so that I can plug it in and use a pot for boiling water for the 7/16"ID tubing so that I don't have to go inside and take over the dining room table. My wife liked the burner idea. She hates it when I cover the table with computer.
Looking great voigts, nice planning :)
Family support is the best thing to have when doing lots of work on difficult projects :up:
What wire did you use, where did you get it, and how do you like the insulation on it ?Quote:
Originally Posted by voigts
I am currently looking for some black 18 AWG with non-obtrusive printing on it, that doesn't feel super stiff. All of the stuff I have found is plenum rated or otherwise just doesn't feel very flexible or nice to use.
I had bought some 18 gauge from the local hardware store, but I didn't like it at all in that the insulation was way too bulky. I looked at both Home Depot and Lowe's, but neither of them carry 18 gauge braided wire. So I stopped by a local electronics supply store that carries all kinds of terminals, electronic, and networking supplies. They had 100' rolls of black 18 gauge for only $13. The insulation is far more manageable, and the flexibility is very good. I am very pleased with it.
Amazing work dude. Keep it up I have enjoyed watching this one.
Wiring
I have done a lot of work on the wiring to get it as neat and tidied up as possible. The answer to this was to run all or the wiring through the floor of the case and under it in the space beneath. I got well acquainted with the continuity setting on my multimeter making the PCI-E cables. I just ran the wires where I wanted and used the continuity setting to make sure which wire was which on each end. I used the PCI-E cable that came with the PSU to make sure I got the connections in the correct places on each end. I have got to get a good pair of crimpers as putting on the PCI-E pins was a pain.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g09/bottom.jpg
Pumps Rheostat
I put the pumps on a 25w rheostat I already had so that I can turn the voltage down a bit on them to quiet them down. I made a little box out of 1/8" smoked acrylic, and mounted it to 2 pci bracket screws. It was easier to place it here near the PSU than near the pumps. I just had to loop the ground wire on the line feeding the pumps to the rheostat. It works like a charm.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/rheostat.jpg
Pumps and Tubing in Place
Here are a few interior shots of the pumps and tubing before installing the hard drives mount box so you can get a sense of how the tubing is running. I changed my previous drain idea and was able to go with my original idea after getting the wiring all hidden. A 1/4" line branches off from the line going from the bottom pump to the bottom rad barb and goes through the floor of the case. It makes draining very easy as I just have to hang the front end of the case off and pull the plug in order to drain.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...09/inside1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...09/inside2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...g09/pumps1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/pumpsRes.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Aug09/res1.jpg
Leaktesting with Air Pressure
I became convinced and am still so that leaktesting with air pressure is a much better way to leaktest than the water fill and pray method. I use a simple $13 vacuum gauge that I got a Harbor Freight tools for this as it has a large gauge area for 0-10psi. I have a small air compressor, but a simple bicycle pump could be used to do the same thing. I attach the line from the compressor hose blow handle going through the vacuum gauge to the drain. I then pump it up to about 9psi which is easily 2-3 times the pressure in the coolant loop, clamp off the pump line, and give it some time. The smallest leak will easily show up on the dial and its usually very easy to hear the hiss of a leak.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...aktesting1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...aktesting2.jpg
Here is a pic of the dial when I initially pumped it up.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...aktesting3.jpg
Here is the same dial 3 1/2 hours later. It didn't budge one itty bit.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...aktesting4.jpg
As I mentioned, I am convinced this is the far better way to leaktest.
1. If there should be a leak, which has happened to me before, there is no clean up or getting anything wet. You just fix the problem. No draining, drying, etc- too easy.
2. Leaktesting with water in a system which is at room temp doesn't have the same pressure as a loop that is warmed up. I can pump the loop up to 9-10psi thereby introducing 2-3 times the pressure the loop will experience when running.
3. It can be easy to miss a small seeping leak as can happen easily at a barb or such with water, while with air, the tiniest little leak will show up on the gauge. You know 100% if you have a leak or not. A very small seeping leak however can be a bit hard to pinpoint with air, but usually you can hear the hiss from the air escaping. At least there is no guesswork, paper towels, etc.
4. Its not expensive to leaktest. A $13 gauge, a bit of hose, a fitting or two, and a pump are all that is needed. Of course I use a compressor since I already have one, but a bicycle pump, a simple Schrader valve, or ball pump fitting can be used to do this. A <$10 trip the hardware store can net you whatever fittings you may need.
We'll spend $1000+ on watercooling and computer parts, but rely on the fill and pray method to leaktest, or not leaktest at all. It just doesn't make sense to me.
The system is put together and up and running. I've got a few minor things to do. I've got a bit of lighting to add to the front dial, and I've got the attach the knobs. Hopefully this weekend I'll get these items done, clean up my shop, and see if I can setup to try to take some decent pics with my mediocre camera. I got cheap off of Ebay a 10'x10' white muslin backdrop. I also got PVC and fabric to make stand up diffusers to use with my halogen lights. Hopefully this will net a better photo shoot than on my last case. I had a horrible time shooting it. One of these days I need to invest in a real camera.
A funny note on this case. The deal my wife made with me when I started making my own cases was that they had to fit inside of the computer compartment area of our oak rolltop computer desk. When my wife got a look at this case with it all put together, she suggested rearranging things in our desk area so that the computer can be put outside of the desk and be easily seen.
You finally succeeded in creating a computer case that even your wife labels as "furniture"!Quote:
Originally Posted by voigts
Great job!!! :up:
Well, I've got a temporary hold on getting the lighting finished on the front dial. The LED boards I got are way too dim to do any good. So I went and ordered some ultra-bright yellow LEDs from Ebay, which have to ship from Hong Kong. I'm pretty much stuck waiting for them to get the lighting done and take pics.
Meanwhile, I'm working on a shelf cabinet to put the case onto to be able to rearrange my desk area. I am following my wife's suggestion to make a way to get the case out of the computer desk itself and into the open.
This is not a computer, this is a pice of REALLY good looking furniture I wouldent mind having in my living room!
Very, VERY nice work. I love the design and your eye for detail. Stunning!
Keep up the excellent work!
Hi Voigts, Thank for the "Reservoir- Making One and a Guide".
Very much appreciated, your quite the master crarftsman.:clap:
Love the work your doing mate!:up:
Thanks. It's a good thing for me then that you live on the other side of the pond. At least I don't have to worry about you tracking me down to consider "adding" my case to your living room!Quote:
Originally Posted by Anemic
Thanks. I'm glad the reservoir guide proved helpful to you. I've never found anything online that tells you how you can go about making one. I had to figure it out purely the hard way. My way is only one way, but it is a way that can be done inexpensively and yet reliably. I novel at the guys that have equipment to cut channels for o-rings and such, but I have found that when properly done, solvent welded acrylic reservoirs hold up indefinitely.Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
My LEDs didn't come in before I had to leave to go out of town this weekend for a couple of weeks. I have to wait until i get back home to finish the lighting on the dial and take final pics. I'm also going to rearrange my desk area to neaten it up quite a bit and be able to place my system in a more visible location than stuffed in a desk computer compartment.
that's a very interesting way of doing a leaktest, great idea voigts
great looking system btw. :up:
Changing My Computer Setup
I just started again making some changes and finally completely finishing my case. I was most of the way there, but had a few things I wanted to fix before putting up pics, and I decided to make a few changes as well. Also, the Xclio 200mm fan that I had bought for the side panel quit working, and they don't reply to emails and have no place on their website for an RMA, so I need to replace the side fan.
About 2 months ago, I decided to change the way that my computer space is set up. My wife likes this computer so much that she suggested putting in outside of the desk so that it is more visible. I have found that having the computer inside of the computer desk compartment is a royal pain when it comes to wiring. The wiring behind and under my desk going to/from my computer and stuff was a dusty mess of spaghetti, and was laying all over the carpet behind the desk. Trying to make any changes was a royal pain. Our desk is an oak rolltop, so it weighs a ton and isn't easy to move.
I used Sketchup to draw out my desk area to consider different possibilities. Our house isn't that large, so I'm pretty much stuck with the area that I have in our living room. I had built a storage cabinet a couple of years ago that sat to the left of my desk. This is the way my layout looks in Sketchup.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Nov09/room.jpg
The best way that I decided to get the case out of the desk was to build a new shelf, move the cabinet into our spare room, and put the computer to the left of the desk.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ov09/room4.jpg
However, in order to move the cabinet into our little storage room, I had to build a large shelf unit to organize it and get stuff out of the floor. So I spent about 2 ½ weeks building a large 5 shelf storage unit and rearranging everything in our storage room which allowed me to get the cabinet in there. The room needed some help anyway so this was a good time to do it. Once I got the spare room done, I moved the cabinet into it and built a shelf unit/stand for the computer to sit on.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...uter-Shelf.jpg
I also moved the rolltop desk out a bit, and competely rearranged the wiring behind the desk to go along with moving the computer. I didn't want everything stuck on the carpet again where I can't get to it. I took a piece of 3” PVC drain pipe I had left over, cut it lengthwise in half, and mounted one half to the wall. This way I have all of my wiring running on top of the PVC behind my desk so it is now easy to access, neat, and can be vacuumed.
This is behind my desk now.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...v09/wiring.jpg
This is my UPS and surge protector that now are mounted on the wall behind the computer shelf/stand.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16.../UPSwiring.jpg
This setup is such an improvement in wiring neatness and accessibility.
Front Dial Lighting
One problem that I wanted to fix was the lighting of the front dial. I had bought and wired up six 10mm yellow leds for the front dial. They are mounted in a piece of smoked acrylic attached to that back of the dial area.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ightsDial1.jpg
There were two problems however. The LEDs simply weren't bright enough, and the light from them wasn't diffused and made 6 spots on the dial. I ordered a 48 LED flexible light string from Ebay. I used a piece of 4” acylic tubing cut 1” deep, and cut two layers of fluorescent light diffusers to mount to the front inside of the cut tubing. I took the smoked acrylic LED mount, mounted it to the tube, and painted the inside of both gold to help deflect light forward through the dial. I used RTV silicone to attach the LED light strip to the other LED lights mount.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ightsDial2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ightsDial4.jpg
Here is a quick pic of how the lighting worked out.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ightsDial3.jpg
I am very pleased with the way it looks. The dial now is completely illuminated evenly.
Pump Changes
Moving the computer however up to where it is 2' from my head exacerbates the noise of having two pumps running. I wasn't really that pleased with the computer when it was sitting down inside of the desk, but having it up near my head made things much worse. I got into watercooling in the first place for quiet/performance. I have looked at the Aquastream XT before as it is said to be a very, very quiet pump everywhere I read, but have never wanted to shell out $150 for one. I found a deal however on a new unused XT Ultra on Hardforum for only $105 shipped including a soggy sandwich and G1/4” adapters, so I bought it.
The only way I could figure to mount the pump is vertically, so I made a stand/mount out of sheet metal for it. I put the rubber foam from the soggy sandwich under it and behind it. I couldn't fit the entire soggy sandwich, so hopefully the foam alone will do the trick to isolate vibrations. If it doesn't, I may opt for some Petras gel stuff.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...beBending9.jpg
Forming Tubing
You may have noticed the nice tight loop going from the res to the pump with no kinks. There is a trick I recently picked up here on XS. I can't find the thread now, but the idea is one of the handiest I've come across in years of watercooling. I used this several times in redoing the lower part of this loop, and it works great.
If you want to form tubing for tight bends or any bends, you can shape it the way you want, and then immerse it in boiling water and then in ice water several times. I found a spring for $3 at a local ACE hardware that fits perfectly inside of the 7/16” id tubing to keep it from kinking while forming.
For the loop in the pic above, I put the tubing into a plastic cup like this, immersed it in boiling water for a minute or two, then ice water, and repeated the process a few times.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...beBending1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...beBending2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...beBending3.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...beBending4.jpg
Once heated and cooled like this a few times, the tubing holds it shape.
I have a very tight spot where one radiator feeds the other radiator. The space measured from the outside (not the inside) between the barbs is only 2 1/4” (about 57mm). The inside space between the barbs is only about 1 1/4”. Tubing would normally kink in a bend this tight. Since the piece of tubing was very short, and the bend had to be so tight, I simply used a pair of tongs to hold the tubing while forming.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...beBending6.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...beBending5.jpg
The tubing formed so that just sitting the outside was only 3” apart. I had no kinking problems putting it at 2 1/4” apart.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...beBending7.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...beBending8.jpg
Drain Fitting
I soldered together a fitting for the drain. This fitting was a pain in that in order to save space, I used an insert to go from 1/2” to 3/8” copper, and soldered in a 1/4” barb to 1/8”NPT fitting to be able to attach the drain tubing to. I had to go really work to get the barb fitting soldered in, and had to go back and resolder the 1/2” to 3/8” joint as it didn't completely seal the first time. Thankfully the resolder worked. I pressure tested it at 25psi with the air compressor to make sure it didn't leak.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...v09/drain1.jpg
The fitting is on the line going from the GPU to the bottom of the case around the base of the pump. Here is a pic without the hard drive cage installed so you can see the routing.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...09/inside1.jpg
The 1/4” tube branches off, goes through the floor of the case, and has a length under the case capped off with a 1/4” barb and a rubber auto vacuum cap.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...v09/drain2.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...v09/drain3.jpg
This is going to work really nice in that to drain all I have to do is take the drain line loose and it hangs about 4 inches down under the case. I can just put the front part of the case off of a countertop and drain away.
Front Grille Cloth
I made a change to the way the grille cloth is mounted. Having the front grill open allowed any sounds to come out of the front of the case, and I don't really need the cloth for any airflow. So instead of having the cloth mounted to a frame, I mounted it to several layers of cardboard, and make a solid wood piece to fit behind it. This should help redirect any sound, and also should make the cloth last indefinitely.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...dboardBack.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...illeClothe.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...ackMounted.jpg
I'm leaktesting with air pressure as I write this. I've got to mount a new 140mm Yate Loon to the case side to replace the Xclio piece of crap fan, and hope to get some final pics up shortly. I bought a large white backdrop, and just got a new Canon SX120 that takes way better pictures than my old lousy Sony camera. So hopefully I can take some decent pics.
Massive update :up: You've been busy. Really like the way the computer looks next to the desk - it absolutely deserves to be seen.
Also curious to see how you like the new pump in the long run. I'm one of those fortunate ones who can't hear the DDC pump, but I know it can drive you crazy if you have a noise that bothers you.
Love the new look of the front with the knobs and new dial lighting! :up:
Those are good instructions for bending tubing. I like that method a lot better then some I've seen and I'm sure I'll be using it on my new build (sometime in the next few months).
I also like the PVC idea for organizing wiring. I've get a spaghetti mess myself and that just might solve it. Should work well for corralling the stereo wires as well! How did you attach it to the wall?
As always a job well done - Thanks for sharing ...! :)
unreal, love how well those leds worked with the dial.
Thank you. I know when my wife is the one suggesting to get the case out in the open that I have scored with this case. She wants me to put it even more in plain sight like where the filing cabinet is, but I don't want it so close to a doorway as i am concerned that it will get hit while carrying in something as that doorway goes between our living and dining rooms and is the main traffic avenue in our house.Quote:
Originally Posted by shazza
I'm kind of ticky when it comes to high pitched sounds, which is a sound that even the DDC emits. i honestly think i am kind of sensitive to higher pitches. I just took a hearing test for the military, and according to the person giving the test, anything rating at least a 20 is considered normal hearing. I only had one 20, but in the two highest ranges, I scored a 5. The DDC is a very quiet pump so its probably just me. If I hadn't of found such a good deal on the XT Ultra, I would probably have just gone down to one pump and tried to cushion it even more. However since I ran across such a good deal, I want to give the XT a try. I have been looking at it for a while and have wanted to get one. I have a pretty non-restrictive loop, so I don't think flow will be a problem. I took room ambient temps and stock and OC temps, so I'm going to compare them before/after to see if there is any difference.
I also want to break down eventually and buy Gentle Typhoons for the rads to quiet them down even more. The quieter, the better as far as I am concerned so long as i don't have to sacrifice good performance. I don't care about having the ultimate overclocked uber under temp setup, I'm just for a very quiet, stable 24x7 type overclocked setup.
I saw a thread here some months ago that i can't seem find via search that had this idea, and I kept it in the back on my mind. It really works well.Quote:
Originally Posted by QuietIce
As for the PVC, I simply drilled two countersunk holes and used drywall screws. My house is the old plaster with backerboard behind it, so a drywall screw holds well enough for something lite like this. I used several of those velcro straps to hold the cables together so that they stay on the PVC channel.
We just changed over from DSL to fiber optic (talk about fast!- I'm getting about 25mbit download and 15mbit upload speeds), and it was so nice to be able to easily access the corner and change wiring as needed neatly.
I was going to finish leaktesting today and try to take pics, but the cheap vinyl 3/16" tubing isn't making a good seal on my t fitting that goes to my vacuum gauge. I had to run out and get some better rubber vacuum line from the auto parts store. That and my daughter had two friends over last night and was being stupid and managed to destroy the acrylic panel on the back storm door. I spent all afternoon working on replacing the panel and fixing the door so that the back of our house wouldn't be freezing. At least I'm not going to have to do all of the leaf raking as she is going to be doing a lot of it for me. I figure it took me in all about 4 1/2 hours + $25 to fix the door, so she has about 6 hours worth of work coming her way. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by spotswood
I was very disappointed when I first put in the six 10mm LEDs to find that they didn't diffuse at all and didn't light up the dial well at all. I did one of those Ebay Hong Kong shipped deals on that LED flexible light string, and that really was what I needed. It has 48 LEDs on it. With the spacer and diffusers, it really gives the look that I was after. There is no way that I'm going to be able to get it as bright as the original radio did with actual bulbs, but the LEDs do the trick. I was tickled pink when I got them installed and powered them up. It looks so much better.Quote:
Originally Posted by nipper575
Congratulations Voigts on another outstanding update/guide.
I was right about you, you are a master craftsman, and I admire your work ethic.
The new LEDs on that dial look heaps better and you know when your wife wants to show off your handy work then you know you have done a dam good job.
Well done there mate.
I'm highly skeptical about the "master" part, but thank you nonetheless. I spent hours today setting up and taking final pics today. I've got to work them all through Photoshop. The front dial sitting next to me looks exactly the way that I originally intended, and I am very, very pleased with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by kgtiger
Completed Pics
I'm not satisfied with the internal shots due to the lighting, and may retake those. This is after a lot of work in Photoshop this week.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/100-102W.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/106-108W.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/110-112B.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/95-97W-1.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/129-131W.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/126-128W.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...9/174-175B.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Nov09/178W.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Nov09/184B.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...0Nov09/160.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...0Nov09/159.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...0Nov09/164.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...0Nov09/168.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...0Nov09/144.jpg
Magnificient work.
You can see the love that went into this and that says it all.:up:
I used to do custom casework and people said I was too picky and would never make money at it but when you send out a piece a little bit of yourself goes with it and you want it perfect.
You attained that.:clap:
It's truely beautiful!
You must be very proud of your work!
Looks amazing voigts, very impressed.
Have you found the Aquastream XT pump to be quiet enough for your liking?