this is looking good :)
get that gpu on water
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this is looking good :)
get that gpu on water
6 fans in pull on the front.
3 fans in pull with another 2 in pull on the mobo side
2 fans up top in pull
Yup
correct, all internal. Bring air in on the front, exhaust out the rear and top.
ty. in the works, trying to decide between the GPU blocks and pick up another GTX280 since the prices are dropping. Need to rebuild the funds department for that to take place. :D
Yup same with my configuration all pulled as well :up:. That's going to be awsome 280GTX SLI :up:
hey if you say that the 2 top ones are in pull to then your blowing the hot air back inside the case ?
Or your rear panel : the exaust panel as you said? I should think that the top ones should also be push fans cause hot air raises...
BTW mate when it's done can you make a movie for me :)
I wanna hear what noise the fans made cause you got quiete alot of them hehe. Or if you got a dB meter :p
Yeah, just need another GTX280 and 2 FC blocks. Oh yeah, and a sugar-momma too. ;)
The top fans are pushing exhaust air out. The only fans that are actually "pulling" air or intake fans are those 6 on the front mounted on the two rads. Creating some negative pressure yes, but I would rather have the dust that stale heated air inside the case.
Thanks! I like that pic as well, things have hit a halt due to funding...having to spend a little extra on some other things, but the second GTX280 and FC blocks are coming (hopefully soon)!
I was wondering if MM could build this as a BTX style mobo tray layout?
You know hwere the cpu is on the lower side and the VGA cards are with the printed side up?
Are your HD's under you disc drives? Are they also air fan cooled?
Also i questioned myself with what kinda screw you fixed the 120.3's to your case? Where they with the 120.3 when you got them?
Sorry i want to know alot hehe it's for my future simmular project :P
I'm sure they can, the "stock" mobo tray could not facilitate that configuration, but I am sure Ben will work something up to accomodate...the new modular MB tray might accomplish that.
HDD's are under the optical drive. I mounted them using the Scythe Anti-Vibration HDD mounts, just needed longer M3 screws.
Fans to rad - 6-32 1.25" screws.
Front two rads to case - 6-32 .5" screws
Back Rad, 6-32 1.5" screws. These go through a few other things than just fan to rad.
Grill-|-Neoprene Washers-|-Case-|-AntiVibeMount-|-Fan-|-TC Gasket-|-Rad
No problem...ask as many questions as you need! :up:
Perhaps got a pic of those screws :p:
Those screws go all the way through your rad? Or just to the first opening cause i know from the warnings that you can damage your rad if your not carefull enough :eek:
You have chosen for the most powerfull pumps that you could get from Laing right? If the more always the better? More flow i think, but then the water can't take mutch heat or dispence more heat ot the rad if you over do it not? Then you have to stick with 1/2" tygon right cause of the pump things are 1/2"?
Is 1/2" better for performance wise then 3/8"?
Also you just drilled holes into the bottom of the case to mount the pumps???
I've read that you can change the 'flow' speeds on those pumps? So you regulate the voltage they get and that changes the speed iirc?
This might be because i'm still green behind my ears and watercooling is a new thing for me :)
Also the pumps how are they all connected? And is there a way to monitor them? Cause I can't imagine that when you boot you have to check your pumps etc :D
Does you rig has a fancontroller or you didn't pick one ? :) If you have one you made pairs out of 2 fans for connecting it onto the controller?
I know it's alot :D But much appreciated :)
Thanks :)
Which ones? Hell, I take a pic of all the different screws I used on the build.
No, the screw length is just enough to go through the pre-drilled hole on the rad and not make contact with the Rad fins or tubes. I did have a little incident where I did not measure accurately, but that has been taken care of.
I don't know if you can call the D5/MCP655 the most powerful pump available, I think the DDC3.2/MCP355 might take that crown, but I got the pumps I knew I could rely on. Another addition to this project is going to be adding Fillports and Drain lines, I might start experimenting with the DDC3.2's in that portion of the project. With the D5/MCP655 you cannot use your own fittings unless you get an aftermarket top (several in prototype phase atm), and the DDC3.2's require aftermarket tops as well. If the pump only had 3/8" Barbs, I would have modded them to take fittings.
By only a limited amount, I don't remember the thread that compared tube size to temps and flow...let me try and find that again. Ah yes, a Cathar thread, so you know the info is top notch...http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=147767
Yup, pretty much. I put masking tape (painters tape) down and laid out where I wanted the pumps. Traced around the pump brackets so I had the outline, took one of the pumps of a bracket and used that to go back in each spot where I traced to mark the spots where I would drill.
Yes, the pumps have a variable impeller speed setting, a little rotary dial on the back of the pump (Settings 1-5). The rotary dial just changes the V-A draw by the pump.
No worries mate, we all start somewhere!
I took one molex cable for my PSU and modded it slightly by removing the floppy power connector and added another molex. So the one cable is powering the Fan Controller, and all three pumps...ahh, one of the reasons to run a Single Rail PSU with modular cables. :D
I should have taken more pics of the individual steps, but I kept forgetting and just kept my mp3 player going and rocking through the work, then oh crap, I need to take pics.
It does, a Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme, 6 channels @ 30W per channel.
I took three fans or two fans depending on which ones and soldered them into a common header. I have a pic somewhere of this, I'll add that pic to the one of the screws I used.
No problem!!!! :up:
just a quick question, was planning to use that same PSU in my upcoming build, how much space is there between your PSU and your Rad fans, i know that the PSU is like 9 inches long or some craziness like that. Build looks great keep it up!
I will measure (assuming you want to know with the PSU position on the bottom opposite side of the mobo) for you. I did end up moving the PSU above the mobo, had to mount three pumps somewhere. :D
hey me again :D
Can you tell me how many meters of tubing needed in order to build it?
Also how long did you build on you system untill it booted?
Is it possible to upload some kind of movie so i can hear the noise it makes?
Thanks.
any updates? :)
if it's not a big trouble could you still photograph the screws used for attatching your rad to the case.
Thanks :yepp:
So hey Skinnee {funny nickname.. you know what the Somalis were called by the Rangers, right? lol)
Did Ben of MM ever sell you the right length of wire for the power and reset buttons?
I'll list off what I used and can probably snap a pic...sure.
I'm as thin as a rail...have had the nickname for a long time. And, I don't think I know the answer to the rangers question.
Not to me...I had to extend the length, I really did expect a little more for the amount of money I spent on the case. None of my side or top panels really line up, the mobo tray PEM nuts are off. I'll be going Lian Li or Silverstone on future builds. But I will be keeping the Ascension as my main rig.
Pick up the phone. Work the phone. I know I would.
When you say "the mobo PEM nuts are off," you are referring to the mobo tray, and that your mobo is not aligned properly? If so, did you force in your expensive video cards? Don't do that! Get it fixed.
As to the side panels and top panels, precision fits are kind of difficult, and I see that too on some Lian Lis (I have a lot of them, just no 343Bs). My two classic MMs fit flush. I had issues with my TJ07 as well, but its tiny nitpicking.
Like I said, pay your tribute to Alexander Graham Bell. Well oiled machines are silent, but the squeaky wheel on the supermarket cart gets heard throughout the large box store and gets the manager's attention!
I know I would scream my head off, even in this forum. I would post progressively louder and louder complains (hence PITA name) until everything gets fully resolved to my satisfaction.
I give retailers and manufacturers hell, regardless of who.
That power switch wire needs to be shipped to you 100% free. If it is the mobo tray that is misaligned it needs exchanging, and it should be cross shipped.
The US forces in Somalia called the locals, especially the enemy combatants, "Skinnies" largely for the same reasons you stated about your physique.
Hey when i look at your pics and i see your southbridge beeing watercooled, if you mount another 280GTX on your motherboard will it not be on top of the SB?
Cause SLI cards are packed close to each other not? Or is that only the case of you tri sli ?
In my dreams i wonder how you fixed those 2 front rads to the case :ROTF:
I've read something about rivets but you didn't use them right?:up:
I did the first time around, I am still debating on whether I'll put the SB under water or not. If I am going to run SLI, then I will definitely be putting the SB under water.
Thats the case with Tri-SLI, the barbs on the SB just dont provide enoug room for even a single slot card to fit. If Eddy would maked the SB block a little longer, 6-8MM, that would provide enough room. I have yet to see if a DD block would do the trick or not.
I used 6-32 x 1/2" Socket Head Cap screws to mount the rads to the front of the case, I also have a fan vibration damper (the cheap ones) in between the case and the rad, so 3/8" just wasn't quite enough. I used socket head cap screws everywhere, ranging from 3/8" all the way to 1.5".
I did not use rivet nuts, I have them sitting here along with a Rivet Nut setter, but I just couldn't do that to my rads, it wasn't needed with a 6-32 tap.
hey skinnee
thanks for helping me out again hehe.
But those screw look awfull long to me?
Or is the case + damping material + rad so tick that you needed such long ones?
Thats not my pic...I snagged one off google image for "illustration purposes only" to show what I meant by socket head cap screws. I have no idea how long those are, but I do know they are not 6-32 either.
mkay sorry my bad :)
So they are 1,27 cm then ? ( 1/2" ) :confused:
- And i've seen something else what makes my question in the head how you mounted the HD's in your 5.25" bays?
Mountain mod mounting tool or something like that?
- Also nice to see that you are using a rheobus extreme. You modded + sleeved the rad fans per 2 I guess??
So you have 4 pairs of wires then to connect to the fancontroller i presume :D
But my question here is what did you do with the cable of the last fan of a rad?
- And did you used up the last fancontroller plug to?
Thanks again Skinnee :up:
[QUOTE=skinnee;3122384]Yeah, just need another GTX280 and 2 FC blocks. Oh yeah, and a sugar-momma too. ;)
I could do with a 'sugar-momma' any idea where I can get hold of one? :rofl:
Nice work BTW! :up: