Well technically that makes sense. Increasing vcore and other voltages should make the PWM's job easier as it has less conversion to do.
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Keetha3,try this vcre1.50to1.51 mch 1.48 cpu 1.27 icho 1.65 you might bringyour mem volts up.
sorry post was ment for steve30x, scorpion!
Thank you also for your tips. Will try all those settings ASAP.
BTW I am using OCCTP for stress testing the CPU. When I run 2 instances of Orthis (Dual prime95) one instance fails while the otherr keeps running but when I run OCCT my computer reboots without any warning.
Thank you too. Ill give those settings a try. I already have my ram @ 2.3v and 1:1.
Ive tried your suggestions guys but I cant get this thing stable at 3.8ghz. It will boot up @ 4.05ghz but wont go into windows. @ 3.8ghz the machine reboots 1 minute into stress testing. I am now about to test 3.6ghz with 4 instances of prime95.
keetha3 how much ram do you have and whats the stock voltage
:up: Tmonte, nice
try bumbing your voltage to 2.50 and backing down on others, iam running ddr800 2.175 .
I don't know about you guys but I've noticed after 3.5ghz my G0 requires a significant more amount of voltage than what was required before 3.5.
I'll try cuz I'm desperate, but I'm running PC8500 (1066) rated at 2.0V... It's already at 2.2250v and running at around 1000. Shouldn't be the issue.
That's exactly the point I'm at. G0.... runs perfect at 3.5 and decent voltage... semi-stable but not really at 3.6 and tons more volts across the board.
your wright shouldn't not be the issue. my rated v1.8 you see what iam running at this is slight oc 960.
Okay, here's what I was trying. Using uguru to adjust the voltages within windows I brought the VCore down to a point where orthos would fail within a few minutes. Then I started playing with the other settings to see which changes would have an effect on orthos running the longest.
Here's what I came up with:
VCore = 1.5250 bios ~1.43 idle - 1.39 load
MCH = 1.41 bios ~ 1.42-1.43 idle/load
CPU VTT = 1.23 bios ~ 1.25 idle/load
ICH = 1.12 bios ~ 1.14 idle/load
ICHIO = 1.60 bios ~ 1.63 idle/load
CPU GTLREF 0&2 = 71%
CPU GTLREF 1&3 = 60%
DDR2 REF = +2%
DDR2 = 2.100 ~ 2.10 load/idle
I just loaded the Beta 16 Build 03 on my board and am running orthos on the above settings, if it doesn't stay stable, then I will bring the VCore up one more notch.
Also, the beta bios seems to have done nothing for me, the temps reported are still whacked out, under load the CPU shows 27c from the BIOS, at idle 5-8c. Don't think those are anywhere close as other core monitor programs show it to load up around 60 and idle in low 40s. It does at least follow the 20 degree increase, too bad I can't set the EQFans to monitor the CPU for 10 on the low end, and 25 on the high.. :)
Hi HaTaX, Im on bios 16 04 with E8400 and it (16 04) gives more realistic temps in uguru than 03 did. I get 31 idle and 50 load. Vcore and cpu vtt both under volt what is set in bios. I set 1.43 vcore to get 1.33 vcore and set 1.35 cpu vtt to get 1.23 cpu vtt. I would be carefull with these two voltages until more is known about these chips. There is already concern about degredation of these chips. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=174821 I am still testing but these are my current settings: 8 X 500 FSB 5,5,5 Auto mem timings
Vcore 1.435v set in bios = 1.33v uguru and DMM
DDR2v 2.175v
CPU VTT 1.35v set in bios =1.23v in uguru
MCH 1.44v
ICH 1.05v
ICHIO 1.50v
DDR2 REF 0%
GTL REF 0&2 67%
GTL REF 1&3 67%
So far I got about 40 minutes orthos small fft with these settings at 4.0Ghz. Also core temp looks like it needs an update because I don't think 48c idle temp at default vcore for this chip is even close. Most likely the delta is correct and the Tj.Max is off.
Good call on the B04 version Ron, I just flashed to it and all is good. I'm going to let my reduced voltages run tonight with orthos. If it's stable I'll see if I can back off VCore a little more.
I have set my CPU VTT to 1.23 and this gives me in 1.25 in all the monitoring programs, must vary a little from board to board. The CPU temps are about 10-12c off from what everest, coretemp report and about 8c off from what rivatuner's C2D plugin reads.
Need to ask this question people, is it safe to continue running this cpu at 1.44 idle and 1.40 at it's lowest under load? I am seeing coretemp reporting about 67c max and the bios now reports about 55c, rivatuner's plugin reported 64c for a max temp. Temps and volts getting too high for an air cooled Tuniq 120?
If so I will back off to 3.6 and begin the slower trek upwards, I went for 4ghz because it seemed so easily obtained on these chips, perhaps mine was not a soldier that stood tall.....
Hey, guys, think I can push my system a little more? Specs in sig.
First of all, I feel the need to say hi to all. This thread is the reason that I got my IP35 pro (replacing an aging IC7).
I initially got myself a 2gb kit of Corsair DDR2@800 and it really did not bother overclokcing the memory at all.
However, one of the sticks craped out on me, so I am on the hunt for memory again.
Is there a preferred brand? Should I opt for 1066 memory?
My local shop stacks all the usual brands, my choice is between Supertalent, TeamGroup, Mushkin, Cellshock, Geil and Transcend.
Anyone having any opinions? Should I avoid a particular brand?
As I said before, I did not overclock my memory, but I am planning to when I find my max stable CPU OC.
Yannis.
I havent tested @ 3.5ghz or below yet with my new ram installed , but I am going to do a 1 hour test with OCCT and if it passes that its further than Ive gotten since I got this ram. If not I have 1 of 3 problems. Either my ram is incompatible with this motherboard or I have defective ram or My chiset and CPU isnt capable of being stable above 3.5ghz.
Hi yanis. I would suggest ram of a speed of 1066mhz or more so that you can get a good overclock and I would go for either Supertalent , Mushkin , Geil or Cell Shock. But I would suggest wait for about an hour until I report back because this Cell Shock ram might not be compatible with this motherboard.Quote:
First of all, I feel the need to say hi to all. This thread is the reason that I got my IP35 pro (replacing an aging IC7).
I initially got myself a 2gb kit of Corsair DDR2@800 and it really did not bother overclokcing the memory at all.
However, one of the sticks craped out on me, so I am on the hunt for memory again.
Is there a preferred brand? Should I opt for 1066 memory?
My local shop stacks all the usual brands, my choice is between Supertalent, TeamGroup, Mushkin, Cellshock, Geil and Transcend.
Anyone having any opinions? Should I avoid a particular brand?
As I said before, I did not overclock my memory, but I am planning to when I find my max stable CPU OC.
Yannis.
I mailed the shop where i bought the abit mobo and they say it has a new bios revision on it that support wolfdales.. No worries i guess so??? (will i also have vdrops and other stuff? :p )
As I type this my cpu is under 100% load for testing with over 40 minutes with no errors @ 3ghz. I have OCCT testing both ram and CPU. So this Cell Shock ram seems to be ok.
So to those guys stuck @ 3.5ghz could you guys please post your settings so that I can give that a shot please?
I think it's pretty easy to get the quads @ 3Ghz and you can easily go for more.
steve30x
some quads simply are not capable of it. If vcore~1.45-1.55 + vtt~1.4 + good heatsink and 3600 still unstable - this is that case.
Im not arguing that Darth Vader. But what Im thinking might be wrong is that maybe it also could be the V1.1 of this motherboard could also be at fault. I could be wrong though.
Anyway I have OCCT running in the background with all 4 cores @ 100% and I have mine set to 3.5ghz and it is stable so far. Ill leave the stress test run for 8 hours.
I have the V1.1 Motherboard too and I can get to 3.6GHz no problem, at a fairly low vCore of 1.4475V. It runs Prime stable at that speed.
Any higher and I need to go over 1.5V for the tiniest of gains and I start getting stability issues. I think the droop may be the problem. The temps start getting high quickly once over 1.5V.
I can boot at 4GHz (1.59+V) but once I start doing anything it bombs out.
I'm switching cases next week and will try the vdroop mod, I think I could get a stable 3.8GHz+.
Perhaps if I lap my Q6600 at the same time I might get it running at a usable temperature.
I am using 4 sticks of Corsair Dominator 8500C5 1GB, they don't seem to interfere with higher overclocks.
I've tried with just two of them and overclock settings are no more stable. Nor can I go further than with the 4 sticks.
Can't seem to push them or tighten the timings past the rated 5-5-5-15 1066MHz.
Just after I posted the last time my computer rebooted without warning again. So Ive changed my settings and I have the CPU on 100% load for over 2 hours so its looking good @ just below 3.5ghz.
Its definately my CPU then but 3.5ghz is still a good OC in my books. Yeah I can boot up @ 4ghz myself but windows wont bootup for me. Anyway Ill be upgrading my watercooling soon which could also be my problem.Quote:
I have the V1.1 Motherboard too and I can get to 3.6GHz no problem, at a fairly low vCore of 1.4475V. It runs Prime stable at that speed.
Any higher and I need to go over 1.5V for the tiniest of gains and I start getting stability issues. I think the droop may be the problem. The temps start getting high quickly once over 1.5V.
I can boot at 4GHz (1.59+V) but once I start doing anything it bombs out.
For sure, 3.5GHz is a great overclock. I was surprised when I found how high these G0 quads are able to go. They definitely hit a wall though and require a huge jump in voltages to break through it.
I upgraded my cooling from Air to Water when mine hit and I was able to go that last litte bit extra without compromising longevity with high temperatures. You may find the same, I had stuck at about 3.2GHz on air and only went to 3.6GHz when I put the Water in.
I noticed someone on here that had gotten over 4GHz with fairly low vcore, I guess it's just down to individual chips at the end of the day.
Another thing I found was that the beta BIOS 16.4 temps where 20c higher than actual, I moved back to beta BIOS 16.3 and they went back to 'normal'.
So im gonna build my 2nd rig up tonight and wish to get my Q6600 go up to 3.4Ghz so need advice on what volts and bios would bo best to enable me to get that. Im also wanting to run 4gb of dominator 8500c5d 1066Mhz if thats possible so any advice would be great.
Thanks Paul.
SetFSB doesnt work with the IP35 Pro?
I get an SMBus Error, when i click GetFSB.
I think im using Beta 04 bios. It may be that the bios is reporting the temps too high and rebooting but I could be wrong. As for my watercooling , well it isnt great. Even @ 1.55v my CPU is hitting 69 celcius according to Core Temp and Everest. I will be changing my radiator from a single to a double and I might change the CPU block also. But I had to bump my VCore up to 1.55v to get a stable 3.5ghz. Its tsill stress testing just beyond 3 hours now. I wont consider it 100% stable until it passes an 8 hour test.
hmm looks like i have a normal IP35 and NOT a pro. (i don't use SLI..) i saw the IP35 only supports 800mhz memory and the pro 1066. I will buy 1200mhz memory. Will i be able to let my memory run at full capacity?(if i let's say run my cpu at 3.6ghz?)
I have the Thermochill PA120.3 Triple Rad and an XSPC Dual Rad, I initially had my 8800GTS and Q6600 in the same loop on the XSPC Dual Rad but found it was overwhelmed pretty quickly.
I added the second radiator and split the GPU - CPU loops to get the temps down, I also put the NB and SB on the bigger radiator with the CPU.
My biggest problem was the PWM, I haven't got a block for it yet and it gets pretty hot even with the heatpipe mod. I found during stress testing the temps where getting to 90c+ and causing reboots. I have an 80mm fan pointing at it now during stress testing.
I have the XSPC X20 Pro watercooling kit. What I have been noticing in the past 4 hours is my CPU temps are dropping slowly. It all started at 69 celcius and now after 4hours and 10 minutes of stress testing my CPU is down to 65 celcius. Maybe my thermal compound is starting to settle a bit now. Also I have 3 case fans. 2 x 140mm on the top of the case extracting air from the case at low speed and I have a 200mm fan on the sidepanel set to medium speed blowing air into the case. This should help with the cooling of the motherboard and PWM.
Something else I was thinking of, I was wondering if there is a possibility that my power supply might be limiting me in my overclocking? I have an old Antec TruePower 480w running the rig in my signature line. Only thing not listed there is 4 80mm case fans, a lite-on DVD burner, and a creative labs audigy platinum.
When I raise my CPU VTT and MCH it seems to have an effect on my PSU 3.3 and 5V rails. My 12V rail is pretty solid and on the 12V CPU connector it barely moves at all, but the current draw is what worries me.
The PSU gets warm, but never hot. Just can't shake the idea that I should be able to get 4ghz with less then 1.44 idle volts, If I could even get down to 1.40 idle volts I'd be happy.
What do you all think?
I doubt it. I cant get a stable 3.6ghz OC and I have 1200 watts of power. Theres two power supplies in my case. 550watt is for fans and hdds and a 650watt is for motherboard and GPU.
When i do this bolt mod can i use AS5 to reseat my HS and would you remove the thermal pad and use the grease aswell?? I know i need to use the pad`s on the pwm`s or do i ??
Cheers Paul
keetha3, i stil say if you would up mem voltage and lower they others, you will be alright, i had the same problems as you.
OK mines stable at 3.5ghz. Im going to strap a 60mm fan onto the PWM heatsink tomorrow and see if it helps.
HI guys. First post. I've spent the last couple of days reading through the 8,381 pages of this thread to try and get a feel for this motherboard. This is my 3rd build, the 1st was 4 years ago and the 2nd was 2 years ago.
I guess I'm spoiled because they both went as perfectly as could be. Only a couple of minor glitches and both machines just hummed along rock solid.
I'm now rebuilding my first machine with basically all new parts, except the case and optical drives. And all heck is breaking loose.
At first I kept getting all sorts of varying codes and problems. The random reboots, the C1 code, no video on occasion, etc. I finally figured out how to flash the bios and that went well. I was still having the same intermittant turn-offs and sometime turn-ons. Then I noticed that my cpu cooler was very, very close to the north bridge heatpipe. Not touching but very close.
Just to elimate any trouble ther, I put a thin piece of cardboard in between the two components. I finally got back into the bios again and looked through everything and and then tried to load Windows. I got it started and it was on the formatting section which takes a while.
Against my better judgement, I had to run an errand for about an hour. My wife got home while I was gone and called me. She said there was something on the monitor about what language did I want but before she could call me to ask what to do, the machine started a hi-lo siren and cycling on and off.
I think I may really be screwed now. Every time I turn it on I get that alarm and no video. It will either cycle on and off or might stay on but still no video signal. I happened to have another video card and swapped that but no fix. Since all of the main parts are new, I can't really point to anything as a suspicious item.
The LED code I get is either 90 or 99, neither of which is on the error list in the manual. I'm really stumped. I'm by no means an expert at this computer stuff but my first two builds went so smoothly that I was expecting the same.
I really have no clue how to proceed now. Any help would be fantastically appreciated.
Turn the system off and remove power, after 10 seconds or so the led's should turn off on the motherboard. Then move the CMOS clearing switch below the Keyboard port at the back for about 10 seconds. Switch it back to original position and plug it back in and switch on, that may help it sounds like a CMOS issue after you updated the BIOS.
Thanks for the fast reply. In the time since I posted, I took the memory out again and swapped them around. I got the computer to boot again and I'm reinstalling Windows XP. It's back to the formatting stage. My big concern is that I have flakey memory or the motherboard is bad. Several times along the way messing with the mem chips would help, at least temporarily. I dont' have any replacement ram of that type to try if it screws up again. And my old motherboard won't accept this newer ram either so it's hard to play swaptronics with those two items to see which might be the trouble, assuming I have more problems.
For now I'm waiting for the format. I'm not going anywhere this time.
My ideas...
To get back to unstable, try what the previous post said... Cut all power, bring it back, reset everything.
After that, try one stick of RAM at a time to boot.
And my main recommendation... use memtest86+ to test for bad RAM which seems the most likely culprit for all of your problems.
I'm almost done formatting. I have tested just one stick at a time but that didn't seem to matter, although there were so many crazy things going on that I might have to retry that. I've had the power totally disconnected several times and I took the cmos battery out and left it for 10 minutes at one point.
Is Memtest something I can dload? And do I need Windows completely installed to run it? I've never had any memory issues in the past so I've never had any need to use all of these programs I hear you guys talking about.
I COULD by some cheap ram to troubleshoot with but then I"m stuck with it because obviously I can't take it back.
Try either of these versions of Memtest. You can boot to it without windows installed. You'll need a CD burner though. Suppose there are other ways to boot to it if you know how.
If your alarm was going off. Was it the cpu over heating? I say don't trust the stock HSF.
If you can't use AS5 on the PWM (I assume because it's conductive) can you use TX-2 Thermal Compound?
Because I believe that TX-2 is NON-Conductive, so would this work?
I doubt it is heat. I have the cover off plus I have a Zerotherm cooler on the cpu. And 5 80 mm fans plus a cooler for my raptor. Our house temp is 68F so the ambient is good.
While I have it running stable for the moment I'm going to install my antivirus program and work towards getting my internet set up again. I can dload memtest on my wife's computer in the meantime.
1st off thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread and an extra scope of that for Ace. IMHO Nelly should add you pipe mod to her first post. Mine was as bad if not worse than that. Been reading and following this for a couple weeks but hadn't really had anything to add, but now that I got a Wolfdale 8400 on my IP35 pro. Thought I'd share my settings incase anybody was having trouble getting to 4GHz. Kinda doubt it though. it seems to be the norm. :up:
Edit2: Bah! I'm not to sure about Orthos anymore, but I can play UT3 without issues. My Screen shot is of what is currently stable for me. 3Dmark score 12756, 3Dmark cpu score 3748. It will boot and run at 4.2GHz (probably even higher) but like most. It wants quite a bit more juice to do so.
E8400 Q746A488 1/9/08
4014GHz 446x9 VID: 1.0375v
Pasted bios settings in the SS so I don't feel obligated to update this post. Just the SS if things change.
DDR2 REF = 0%
CPU GTLREF 0-3 = 67%
Will be trying to lower voltages a little bit at a time over time.
This is my 1st Intel build in years. (I know you hear that all the time these days.) Coming off my DFI nf4 ultra w/ 170 Opty. So I got a couple questions. What's this preformance level I've read people refer to, and how does one adjust it? Does the DDR2 REF option realy do anything? Didn't seem to change my DDR voltage settings. Also what the heck is CPU GTLREF? OK so I haven't really searched those last 2 questions but got so many returns on preformance level that I still haven't found any answers.
Core #0: 73°C :eek:
From the IP35-Pro Users Manual:
:down:Quote:
- CPU GTLREF 0&2 / CPU GTLREF 1&3
These items select the percentage ratio of CPU VTT voltage for each group of the CPU GTL
reference voltage.
I still don't know what it does either thou:p:
Well the temps under uGuru match what it reads in the bios. I trust the bios more than any app in Winblows.
and thanks I have read that. At least now I know I'm not the only one here. lol I guess it's time to do some reading. Anybody have any suggestions or links. Guess I'll start with Intel's papers. :rolleyes:
Thanks ace for the info:up:
When i put it on the pwm`s do i just put a small drop on top of each so it does not leak over the edge of them when the HS is fitted? And should i use the MX2 on both NS and SB aswell as the PWM`s... And one last question for today atleast:rofl: What bios should i flash to 14 or one of the beta ones???
Many Thanks Paul
Since formatting and reinstalling windows, i am unable to change any settings using uguru, when i attempt to, my pc crashes and i get a static noise from my speakers. This happens when i am using Uguru 3.107. When i tried using Uguru 3.104 the program would crash before it loaded.I have tried uninstalling and reinstalling uguru several times all to no avail. It was working fine before i reinstalled windows, should i reformat and reinstall windows? (My specs are in my sig)
The way i spread my MX-2 on my pwm sink was to spread it out on the sink itsself, i know people say to put a bit on each pwm, but i found that when i did it that way, it appeared that all pwms were making good contact with the sink, but when i spread it out on my sink it showed that the second last row of sinks was not making any contact at all. I would recomend using MX-2 for your nb and sb as it runs 3 or so degrees cooler than ceramique. I have found that it even competes with Shin Etsu X23. I personally would reccomend flashing to the beta bios 16 with the method that Ace-A-Rue has posted.
I hope this one hasn't been answered yet...
I bought a E8500, 2x2GB kit G.Skill F2-8000CL5D-4GBPQ and an IP35Pro rev.1.1
If I install all this will it boot right away or should I stick my E6420 on the baord and flash to Bios 16.B04 first?
Thanks!
This is starting to trip me out....I recently removed my cpu, replaced the tim on it, set my settings to previous oc settings, but with 1.41 vcore set, and the board is now overvolting? At idle, im sitting at 1.48 under full load im sitting at 1.41 to 1.43...and now uguru is working correctly?
Would it help any bit if I unplugged the 4 pin power from the PCI Express near the PCI slot? Im only using 1 graphics card.
the four pin plug is an auxillary power source...i think in page 1-6 of the manual it talks about the plug...not much information on it.
I dloaded memtest last night and when I unzipped it, there was an install file. When I opened it, nothing happened. I assume there should have been some type of menu. Unless it is some type of covert running program. Should I dload another one? I think it was version 86 that I found.
Did anyone have new memset working?
There is information that memset don't work bcos of 14bios - on 12 memset works. But there was old version of memset. What about new ones, especially beta?
Might try powering off the PSU, then holding down the power button for the mobo for 10 or so seconds. This will discharge the capacitors on the motherboard and give it a fresh start. I've noticed sometimes my CPU temps become locked (BIOS reported CPU temps don't change) at one temp and the above process gets it going again.
Thanks man. I thought my windows install went bad so I reinstalled windows but then I had no internet connections so I reset my Cable modem and router but I still have no internet connections in windows. When I unplugged that 4 pin power lead my GPU wasnt powering up either. If I cant get my internet working on the motherbioard by 2pm tomorrow Ill RMA the motherboard.
Tried that and tried reflashing to bios 16 b04 but my ethernet still doesnt want to work. Think Ill have to rma the board and reassemble my AMD machine again :(
Well its now up and running and it came with bios 14 on it. Ive done the bolt mod and my pwm is 34 idle. I also used the mx2 paste on my cpu and it dropped my temp also. So now if i wanted to hit 3.4 Ghz what should i be looking for settings wise as im also gonna run 4gb of dominator 8500 ram so i will need more volt on my nb. And what divider should i use to get my ram close to 1066Mhz ???
Thanks Paul
Try this one:
memtest86+-1.70.iso.zip
Or this one:
memtest86-3.4a.iso.zip
Both will need to be unzipped then the iso burnt to a CD, boot up from the CD and they give test options. It won't run in Windows as it would only interfere with the testing.
Hey,
My computer will not start... kind of. It boots, I get power to the mouse but screen is completely blank, can't even go into the bios.
ABit code is 7F
Any ideals?
Never thought of doing that Ace. I will try that tomorrow morning. Its 1:23am here now and im tired. I dont want to mess things up even more.
received a message from Gary Key of anandtech.com fame, AKA, bingo13 here in XS forum.
he said, abit will have another beta bios release in about a week...once gary tests it, he will post the link for the bios in this thread.
I think we had enough with the beta bioses. It's about time they sit down and deal with a new one which will solve the matters with memory and wolfies
poor mans oc on bios 14. 1.44mch, ich 1.12, vdimm 2.00v 5:6, v 1.69 (real 1.65v~)
1m super pi, hit sub 12's
http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/9076480f67.jpg
as high I can get this sucker on air, after 458fsb hits wall without vdroop m od.
Could browse, surf net though etc.
yup this chip aint that great. Waiting for E8600 to come out before i do something new
anyone have a spare bios chip from a broken board/boards... mine is totally :banana: :banana: :bananal: :bananal: :bananal: :banana: :banana:ed
6 bucks plus shipping http://www.uabit.com/WebStore/produc...1e4qv5aodq1752
Hi Joker im on air and @ 3.2 my temps where about 37,36,38,38 with 1.32v so im guess they will be about 40 or more with it higher. I have just used some MX2 grease and have now got two 2000 rpm 120mm fans on my thermalright cooler so i hope this will help keep it below 40 or so.