Well, I'm glad you had some success!
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Well, I'm glad you had some success!
:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmaah
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmaah
I've been running 1.6V for like 9 months or so now. Only gets me 3.41GHz on my Week 24 though. It all depends on your temps.
Well ive hit 3.54ghz on 1.53, with my week24... not stable though. It's not only your temps though.. Too much voltage = severely decreased lifespan
Damn 1.6v for 3.4 :o I run that at 1.3v... Really bad chip you got there
quit showing off, instead, try to explain how to reach those speeds :D
or what the max safe voltage is... :/
Week 24 batch is just poor for overclocking :(
Typical that i get the cpu from teh crap batch!
Yeh, typical here too :(
That's why you need to try several cpus to find most overclockable. First one took me to 3.2, wouldn't go further. Second one was happy at 3.3 and above, but run too hot and rebooted computer every time it didn't like some settings. Third one still runs a little hot but behaves better than a second one :D With it, I was able to hit 3.6ghz on water w/o a hitch - 8 hours of orthos stable.. will do 24 later on ;)
Don't make setting up a raid on the ICH7 harder than it is. It is absolutely easy to do this. For those about to try this there is nothing to it!!!
First if you have no other computer around to put the driver onto a floppy it's ok.
just put in your CD that came with your board and it will give you the option to use "Make disc" This will load the raid drivers onto the floppy
Now enter bios. On the "Main" page scroll down to "IDE Configuration"
High light it and hit enter. This will open up a sub box. You are only concerned
about the first item click on it and switch from IDE to RAID. Your done
Hit F10 and enter. As your sytem starts to boot get ready and when prompted hit CTRL + I both together. This will open up your raid builder
First name your raid setup. Mine is "Welder" then decide on the block size and so on. When finished hit the Y and enter. When it restarts this time have your windows disc in and your floppy at the ready.
Windows will look over your configuration then you will be prompted to hit F-6
if you have any 3rd party devices . you now hit F6 i always give it a few taps.
Probably not necessary but I do. Soon you will be prompted to decide whether you want to install any 3rd party devices. YOU DO!, so hit "S" the insert your floppy disc and hit enter. A list will come up for you to go through. you want the ICH7 but there are 3 to choose from!!
The first is ICH7 for Notebooks
The Second is ICH7 (RAID) for Desktops
The Third will say ICH7 AHCI for Desktops..
MAKE SURE you Choose "ICH7 RAID for Desktops" and hit enter As the windows loading process continues I do the slow format. You can do the quick.
you will while installing windows get a couple alerts that your software does not meet Microsoft's BS just hit ignore and keep installing. Then another will come up saying that your raid drivers has not passed window's BS just ignore and keep loading Windows and soon you wioll be validating and putting on over 100 updates including SP2 and IE7 and WMP11 and you will need WME to run PCmarks and don't forget your Virus scanner. And it will all be good.
I have this fresh in my mind cuz i just set up a raid and finished the last update about 30minutes ago.
Remember, Don't over think this stuff. It is all very easy. I have installed all the necessities off the P5W DH disc now I need to put on some utilities and do a little straigfhtening of this little baby's files
Good luck to you and Remember to chose correctly between 32bit and 64bit drivers
Keep it Simple!!
WZ
I wonder that too. My poor week 23 needs 1,48v to run stable at 3.2GHz (356x9). Damn it :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmaah
Is it safe to run at this voltages 24x7?
This is a noob question, but every experienced computer technician I asked hasn't had a reasonable answer.
What is the purpose of having two gigabit ethernet controllers on this board? What am I supposed to do with the 2nd one? Hook that one up to my router to grab a 2nd IP? Hook it up to a 2nd ISP?
Some newer boards (not the P5W) do NIC teaming, which doubles the transfer rates when used with other teaming devices. However, just two ordinary ethernet ports can allow you to turn your box into a router. This would allow for very advanced firewall and network services that most consumer routers can't supply. I prefer to leave the job up to my DGL-4300 personally. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by intense321
ok, so stopped upgrading my bios since 1707... and asus still hasn't given us the missing memory timings... I hate you asus...
Experience doesn't equal smart. Use it for your XBOX or something similiar to get a net connection. Or even connect two computers for a simple network/workgroup. Myself, since I have a gigabit router, I just disable it. :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by intense321
I have been running 1.5375v since mid december. Thats what mine takes to hit 3.6 (31A)
Bios setting or in windows voltage?
Is P5W-DH-ASUS-Deluxe-2004 any good ?
should i upgrade from 1901?
Thanks in advance
There's no reason why you shouldn't upgrade to 2004, it's stable and doesn't limit overclocking etc.
Just use the latest Asus Update application to do so.
Still doesn't fix the CPU multiplier bug on Extreme CPU's though, Asus is just so so poor when it comes to BIOS updates. It's always a case of if they can be bothered to do something rather than we want our product to be the best hence we'll give it the best BIOS like Intel does on their boards.
I gave it a try using my existing settings and started to get some spurious lockups followed by BSOD - mainly when connected to internet so back to 1707 for me!Quote:
Originally Posted by GFORCE100
Damn, I'm having troubles hitting FSB 430 and above... any hints or suggestions? I did make a NB/SB cooling mod, replaced thermal compound, installed a fan on NB heatsink... Even with 1.85 volts in bios, it won't post at 440 and crashes windows when it's loading at 430... 425fsb is the highest stable for me :(
My board sucks aswell... since I got the first revision, with 1,65 vMCH I can only go to 413 FSB MAX which make my E6600 to a maximum speed of 3700 MHz... Really frustrating since I'm willing to reach 4,0 Ghz if possible...
I'll probably buy the new DFI Infinity P965 or borough my mate's P5B Deluxe to achieve this :D
I can't go past 400fsb...
:(
bios setting, 1.50 in windows.Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyea
thanks, what are your temps like?
On a side-note, there is no easy way of fixing the vdroop is there? I know there is a pencil mod or something of the likes? But seems bit too complicated... Also, i take nobody knows the max safe voltage for the e6600 then?
i was running my previous, A revision, E6600 @1.65v 24/7 with watercooling. ~33*C idle. It ran fine.
My CPU is really weird... with 1,54-1,55 vCORE my CPU doesn't is at 28 degrees Idle under a Thermalright Ultra 120... my cores are around 42-43 degrees... This is at 3,6 GHz. When I push a lil further 3,7 GHz for benching I put vCORE at 1,60 V and my cores temperature never go about 50 degrees I dle and my CPU is about 33 degrees...
My CPU is A26.
You confused the heck out of me. Don't quote cpu temp, it's useless, only core temps (from coretemp 0.95). For example: 3.6@1.4vcore idle 32C, 52C load, 3.8@1.55vcore 39C idle, 65C load, room temp around 70-74F. These are my temperatures, but my chip is B-series, which runs hotter than A-seriesQuote:
Originally Posted by S1mon-
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=137301Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmaah
post #6
Right now, my case says that the temperatures inside the case are around 22ºC and my CPU is running at 43ºC/45ºC.Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyea
I have a problem and was wondering if anyone could provide some help. Very frequently for no reason whatsoever, my internet stops working for all programs. I mean right now I could type this message and next thing I know its done. My internet cord is connected to a linksys router for my mom's laptop and into my cable modem. All lights on the modem and router are fine and how they normally should be. When it does stop working, it affects my mom's laptop as well. What usually fixes it is disabling the connection, taking out the wires and plugging them back in and enabling the connection. Either that or restarting my computer and while it is restarting redoing the wires again. I am pretty sure its not my internet connection that is the problem. Any help?
e6600 @ 3.6ghz (400fsb)
p5wdh deluxe
4-4-3-8 supertalent ram @ 800mhz
x1950xt
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nmbr1Ballr
I have the same problem as you but instead of using the ethernet port, I use the USB port :confused:
Sounds like a process of elimination!. Reconnecting cables is overkill unless you have a duff cable or connection. Suggest it is the router hanging as the common point of failure - both machines fail to connect to the internet. Did you have any problems with the router before your machine was connected? - have you tried just rebooting the router without the cable disconnecting etc. Make sure you have latest MArvell LAn drivers loaded on your machine and latest lfirmware on the linksys router - use LAN 1 on he P5W . if you still get problems try and get your hands on another modem/router to see if that elimates problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nmbr1Ballr
My internet gets laggy above 400fsb as well.
How do I remove the optional fan on my P5B-Deluxe Wifi mobo as ive clipped it onto the heatsink which is next to the cpu, and it is slowing down my cpu fan which doesnt go above 1000rpm
Hey Numbr1Ballr, you know I went through the lan connection problem too. for me it was a long time ago. I went to the Asus Site and downloaded the latest Marvell drivers and no more problems. Give it a try. I thought it might be a stability problem cuz it only happened at 430+ fsb but, either way it was fixed with the updated driver. And maybe it just happened.
http://support.asus.com/download/dow...Language=en-us
Make sure you get the one for your operating system.
WZ
GOOD CALL we often forget while were constantly updating our BIOS we should be updating our drivers. That's the reason their posted on manufacturer and the chipmaker's themselves websites. I've had a LAN chip fry on me and until it finally did it reaked havoc as I chased electronic gremlins. Until I witnessed the chip blue smoke before my eyes I only knew I was having all sorts of issues that weren't even Internet related although those were just as frequent.Quote:
Originally Posted by WeldZilla
Remember were still overclocking and when you raise that FSB do you really know for sure where divisors may be working and where they may not?
I got 400fsb! Only required me to max my mobo volts.. and cpu voltage of 1.5675 in bios... so 1.54 in windowsQuote:
Originally Posted by Timmaah
And it was good enough to do super-pi :D
The more i have this board the more i hate it...
So:
At 400fsb.. can only beat with cpu vcore at 1.57 and spd enabled
At anything below 396 (so 395, 394 etc.) or above 400.. i can run it with spd.
Also, at 400fsb.. the pc was reaaally laggy.. at 401fsb there was no lag and i could boot up with 1.56v... so with less vcore. How the feck does that work!? And i could run the ram at 1ghz without spd.. (i couldnt even run it at 1ghz with spd on when it was 400fsb)
So to put it short.. ive finally passed 400fsb.. and the once that good motherboard comes out i may actually use this motherboard for making schnitzel
What Ram are you using? I had a similar problem when I was using cheap MDT ram. With the Gskill and same bios I could run 400mhz+ and manually set the mem timings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmaah
Anyone managed to get AAM working on their harddrives on this mobo? Asus blames it on an incompatibility with A.I.Quiet... :rolleyes:
When I enable with Hitachi Feature Tool it works until I reboot then goes back to default 254 setting... :(
Looking at results form AT and places, my burst speed looks low on the seagate. they're all on the ICH7R
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...aux/segate.gif
And then I have no idea what the hell's going on with the raptors?! 8mb sectors then 32mb sectors test
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...x/raptors8.gif
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6.../raptors32.gif
My MCH broke or something. I was experimenting with 9x425fsb, set mch to 1.75 in bios (vcore 1.55) and after like 5 hours of orthos computer rebooted... Now I can't get into windows even with mch=1.85v and fsb 425... Also, before this happened, I was 100% stable at 3.6ghz, 400 fsb, 1.65mch and 1.4vcore (several runs of orthos a few hours each). Now I need to raise mch to 1.75 to be stable.. What's going on here? :(
you know I like these boards so much!! When offered a chance to get a refurbed Rev1.04G for next to nothing I just had to jump on it! What I really like abou this board is that I can run at 425 fsb for daily clock still and I toned back my mem from 3-3-3-4 to 4-4-4-4 at 2.2V my otherboard hates CL4 and only performs great at a steady 2.4V to the mem. Today I ran super pi 32M with my timings set @ 4-3-3-4 Which worked out nice since my fsb was at 434. I have been running at this speed 24/7 for the last 3 days no shut downs or reboots and always with folding runing on one core. Today I rebooted for the pi run and no folding.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...la/piytre1.jpg
guys if you look at my sig. I believe the biggest difference is the fact I am running G.Skill 6400HZ They are practically giving it away now at Newegg
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231065
I suggest you get it. Or let me keep buying these pieces of crap for nothing(thankyou very much) This is my 6th now. But this one I wanted for myself the whole time. They have all performed in this range. All of them.
WZ
weldzilla, instead of just braggin, you'd be much more appreciated by describing how you got fsb so high ;)
Wow that is a great deal on those HZ sticks. Makes me want to swap out for these crappy Corsair promos sticks I have, but it wouldn't really help me since this CPU is pretty much at its max anyway, unless I ran a 4:5 ratio on the ram. Meh..
I have shown my bios settings in this thread. I have said more than once to buy the RIGHT memory. I have made enough suggestions. The only difference on the new board compared to the old is now I run less mem voltage and looser timings as I stated. I have actually gone back into the bios this afternoon and bumped the mem voltage to 2.25. It just feels more solid there.
The bios pics are posted. If you cant find them I will repost with my latest settings. Many of you should have no probs passing me by as many of you claim much cooler temps on air than i get with liquid. Right now it is a very warm afternoon here and my place is quite warm yet not warm enough to turn on central cooling system I am folding and f'ing around and my temp right now is 39/37. reminds me when I had my 2.4C running at 3637 for a daily clock, I told everyone the mem I was using that finally let me past 3200 and all the way to 3710 on my little 2.4C. Everyone whined but no-one changed. Buying that G.Skill memory is a steal right now at $169 for 2X1 gigs of 6400HZ and if you still can your board you still have the best memory going so what have you lost. Read this forum I have sen guys jump From 975 to 965 to 680 to 650 jeez hold still and make what you got work.
I swear some of you get a board and today and tommorrow it is a pos and you want something different. Well fine get something different but let it be your memory first. sniggle how do you know, even a divider is not a guarantee that you have maxed your cpu. That is how I picked so many of these board for nothing. You asked I am telling..... again I will post current bios shots if you like I know this is a long thread!
I do not like or use clockgen, to me that is a device to use for a 1M super pi run. To each their own.
WZ
I meant that I would not run my CPU any faster than 3.6 since the temps are as high as I'd want them. Therefore, getting the HZ sticks would only be beneficial if I ran the memory divider higher or lowered the multiplier, but memory bandwidth doesn't mean as much as cpu speed for my uses, so it's not worth it at the moment.
Well with the G.Skill you would with your fsb set to 400 you could run 1:1 with timings of 3-3-3-4 or 5 at worst. Which would just kick the crap out of 4-4-4-12!! Then if you were to ever get better cooling you would have the better memory on hand. See this is what I mean, for years complaints but no changes!! Or you couls be running your mem on the4:5 divider at 1000DDR with timings of 4-4-3-4 again speeding the hell out of your system...
But Nooooooooooooooooo you are content with your discontentment.
Here are the bios shots once again guys. The newer board shows 1.6 in the bios as compared to the old board which showed 1.632 in the bios when set to 1.65. Well here you go one more time.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...illa/bios3.jpg
Q-fans disabled.....old news. That Liberty has nice rails does yours?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...illa/Bios1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...illa/bios2.jpg
Now about that memory issue you are having and don't know it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Zilla/tttt.jpg
Or 1:1 at 3-3-3-4 you decide people. Now earlier some said I was showing off my high clocks. No! this is showing off my high clocks!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...Zilla/pi90.jpg
Now there it's time to run looser
Try the memory you have nothing to lose!! If you still can the board you still got the good stuff for the next one!!
WZ
Can someone tell me if this works with the new Intel Core 2 Duo E6420 "LGA775 Conroe" 2.13GHz?
In support for WeldZilla.
I got no problems running this board at FSB 430 on a 24/7 basis.
RAM : look in sig.
Jeez, nobody's attacking weldzilla, and the memory ain't the issue for most ppl (imho), it's the board. And btw, if you really want good memory, imho you better get this: https://shop4.outpost.com/product/5162136
Far more reputable and after rebate costs less than what weldzilla is trying to sell here :D I have those sticks and with default cpu settings, I can run them at 1:2, the rest of time I have to 1:1, for whatever reason mobo can't handle other ratios, even tho I know I can run the memory up to 533mhz, 1066effective.
And weldzilla, are you saying you didn't mod the board in any way, and run it 400fsb and above at 1.65mch? That prolly won't work for most ppl, otherwise why are their so many volt-mods for this damn board? I'm not saying you are lying, I'm saying you are a minority.
lol, the hz is better by a country mile.Quote:
Originally Posted by anzial
right, let's see how GSkill support comes thru if something goes wrong with your hz :cool: OCZ in this regard is untouchable :D Besides, for the lesser price, you get 8500-rated sticks instead of 6400 ones.. I dunno, I'd prefer to have warranty covered speed up to 1066 rather than overclocking 6400 beyond the specs (i'm not saying they cant). Besides, you do realize that D9s are binned, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyea
When I read weldzilla post the MCH was at 1.55v and the vcore at 1.65v with fsb at 425.. I use less vcore volts with MCH at 1.65v to run 3.6Ghz. I can run FSB 420 on vcore 1.55 with MCH at 1.65 on air - temps are not to my liking so I dont. MCH at 1.65 should be good upto 420-430 - there are other references to that effect on this thread. In general its not the board - its whatever the quality of the cpu and memory you get. If not an early revision board I believe most volt mods are to cure the vdroop which on average is about .05v.. Me I didnt bother! I would like better memory than the sticks I have cos I got bought them thinking they had D9s but the rev I got had Promos - good for specified speed but not o/c. I am going to cure that by giving these a tryCellshock PC8000c4 http://www.legitreviews.com/article/464/1/ Unfortunately here in the UK we pay premium price so they better be good!Quote:
Originally Posted by anzial
Hmm, I think these are the best deal right now from either one posted above: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231098
I like GSkill already :D Here it says these stick are D9GMH too ;) http://translate.google.com/translat...3Dnju%26sa%3DG
Sesdave - well, in my case my cpu takes only 1.4vcore to get to 3.6ghz but (now) 1.75v mch. It was fine before with 1.65v mch but now it's unstable. And I do have D9GMH memory, too... So you tell me, is it my memory, cpu or the mobo? Mobo is rev 1.04G, if that means anything
Further details: I ran memtest overnight at 1066mhz effective, 1:2 ratio at 266fsb, memory was at 2.1v, no errors, no lockups. My cpu ran Orthos @ 3825mhz with 1.525vcore, 1.75v mch for 5 hours, no errors but then something broke when I was messing around with screenshots and now it won't load windows at the same settings, and my 3.6ghz setting with 1.65v mch is no longer stable either, i have to bump mch to 1.75v to make it stable. There are reports of others who can't even reach 400fsb a page or 2 above in this thread. So I think if I get another board, based on 965 chipset, I'm pretty sure I won't have any problems hitting 4ghz or above with obvious heat issues but not the fsb ones :) The 975 chipset is limited, there's no way around it, just slight variations in mobo manufacturing allows fsb above 400fsb, but in general, most owners of unmodded 975 mobos are limited in fsb..
do you have problems with ATA Optical drivers with 2004beta bios ?
because i suddently cant burn cds with any of the IDE opticals drivers, and yesterday i burned a fine cd.
please try to burn cd and tell me.
Nice CPU - I could do with the low volts as I am on air. This is a good read on e6600 adventures on the P5W and looks at 2:3 4:5 ratios for memory. http://forums.vr-zone.com/showthread.php?t=88306.Quote:
Originally Posted by anzial
When you say something broke - any more detail? I have found from experience with o/c opterons when you cant put your finger on the cause it best to go back to scratch and rebuild from start. What BIOS you on - I have found 1707 has given me the most stable overclock. re memory - you get it cheap in the US of A. U may find this of use for reference re chips. http://ramlist.ath.cx/ddr2/ One thing to remember - no overclock is guaranteed! It was a lot harder to do before Conroes and it is still luck of the draw if you get a sweet CPU.
sesdave, of course it's not guaranteed, that's what I was trying to say all along. Weldzilla comes in and flaunts his overclocks as if it's a foregone conclusion (no offense, that's what it looks like to me :) ). You got to work to get it, you know :) I did lots to hit 400fsb - I installed watercooling, I did NB/SB cooling mod, w/o which the most I could do 367fsb.
Now, while my chip doesn't take much voltage, it does pump loads of heat - it's a B-series chip, after all :) I do have somewhat puny single heatercore with 2fans in push/pull config, and still the cpu heats up to 52-54 load @ 3.6ghz with room temp around 20-22C.
Well, "breaking" was a feeling I got when the comp started to reboot and freeze on me after that experimental run at 3825mhz. I did a 5 hours + run of orthos and at that point I started taking screenshots, manipulating them in windows paint, when computer crashed. Before that, I had no trouble loading windows at 425fsb (would not load at 430 and wouldn't boot at 435) with vcore 1.525, mch 1.75, mem 2.05. Now, with vcore 1.6, mch 1.85 and mem 2.2 it won't load windows @ 425fsb (still boots). Also, the previously rock-solid overclock at 400fsb won't stick, I had to change mch to 1.75 to make it stable again - with old setting of mch 1.65 it freezes or reboots. Vcore still 1.4, works fine.
I'm using 1602 bios and frankly, don't want to experiment with changing it. One reason is that I don't have a floppy (had to make unattended install with integrated raid drivers even) and another - what if the newer bios turns out worse for me and I can't go back?... if there was an easy way to switch between them... Any suggestions? If I really need it I guess I could snatch an external floppy...
My chips are definitely D9GMH, it's OCZ 8500, I even checked them physically, there's a bump in the middle :) I'm able to do 2:3 ratio below 400fsb but once with 400, it won't do anything above 1:1. Dunno why... I'll read that thread, see if something comes up.
You could always boot off a USB flash drive, or flash from windows (but the flash drive is better). This utility can make your flash drive bootable.Quote:
Originally Posted by anzial
Can someone please help me ?
my both burners in IDE doesnt burn anything now, Benq and pioneer.
they just start at 5% in nero or any other burning program and just trying reading and reading all over again until it stops on 5% and then it said burning failed, no matter what speed.
What is wrong ,, :\
I burned a cd before 2 days ago and it worked just fine.
It happens both in WinXP and Vista Ultimate 64bit and non oc or with oc.
please help,
thanks in advance.
Oh :banana::banana::banana::banana:, thanks for bringing this up, I been trying to burn DVD+R DL yesterday, tried twice (expensive discs) and both failed, didn't seem nero wanted to burn Layer 2 :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by X7007
Maybe it's the bios then... I did burn a CD with only a 2mb image just fine with 2004 bios though, but dvd+r dl is a no go :slap:
Flashing back to an older BIOS I can help with as I have just tried 2004 and gone back to 1707. Download AFUDOS 2.11. Get the BIOS version you want and rename it to P5WDH.ROM. Create Boot Floppy or USB Flash boot - create Boot flash with either HP one posted or this http://www.weethet.nl/english/hardwa...musbstick.php#. Copy AFUSOS and BIOS to floppy or USB Flash. If you are using Flash USB configure BIOS to change the boot sequence so that the USB flash drive is boot before a hard drive, and also disable "Legacy Diskette A" on the BIOS Main pageBoot . Insert drive/floppy - Boot to DOS and run afudos /ip5wdh.romQuote:
Originally Posted by anzial
I have just remembered that I forgot to to disable all CPU configuration settings especially virtulisation when I flashed the BIOS to 2004 which might explain my spurios BSOD with that version and why I am getting them when I flashed back. I might give it another try as others are giving it good posts - might be worh checking you CPU settings. You wheted my appetite as I am getting RAM with more potential so I have been looking into the dividers - more info on 4:5 2:3 dividers from EVA2000 http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...7&postcount=33 points to memory with trd=6 being the culprit. He also refers t MB/NB temps - I stuck a 40mm fan on my NB which I found helped a lot. Here some more which all poiunts to TRD=6 as the problem .http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/.../t-115729.html
Flashed back to 1901 and dvd+r dl burns are still failing WTF :mad:
Lawrywild - you have played with this MB lots and are a good source of information. Have you got any pointers or information on running memory 4:5 or 2:3 with high FSB? From what I can see its limited by the TRD=6 setting.
Its still fails for me too !Quote:
Originally Posted by lawrywild
what is the problem Please Someone :\\\
please i beg i dont know what to do.
i revert to 1901 using the EZ from the asus bios.
I cant burn anything.
Lawrywild ? did you try to burn CDR too ? do they fail too ? because they must, i only tried CDR and they failed, i dont want to waste DVD+R cds.
And i noticed when you restart the Opticals drivers do not close by themself, and i remember they did before flashing to 2004.
Does your Optical Drivers get closed when you restart your computer?
All I know is 2:3 divider doesn't work above about 320 fsb for me, 4:5 I think is fine but since I can't run manual timings and I have a bad clocking cpu, I can't really help you.Quote:
Originally Posted by sesdave
I will try CD-R, give me a few minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by X7007
edit: successful
I'm using the Gskill "hz" ram... -.-Quote:
Originally Posted by Fr3ak
Got 2.05v in it in bios, and its 2.1v in windows.
How can i force update to lower version from 1901 to 1602?
it doesnt let me, nore EZ update or Afudos .
how can i downgrade from 1901 to 1602 and lower?
Someone please ?
Pff why did i update, everything worked well,
i am so so sad, no one can help
I think I'm going to cry!Quote:
Originally Posted by X7007
But dont worry help is at hand. Look at my post today on page 183 about reflashing to older version.
What i did is, Flashing from 2004 to 1901, then with Afudos 2.11 to 1707 then to 1602. After that - "clearing the Cmos" putting the battery out and the jumper from 1-2 to 2-3. after all that i started the comp entering bios set up everything, and now i will update to 1901 and i will do the clearing cmos again.
Yes - sesdave- I saw your post while i was googeling, and i followed that, though i just used the bios version and not the mb name, example 1707.rom, 1602.rom.
it wont burn a CDR..
i am waiting or a P5WDH + QX6700 + G.Skill HZ to arrive in few days
which bois is the best for me knowing that the system will run @ stock speeds with the ram @ DDR2-800 ?
you can use 1901, newest and the most stable, but you will need to update, just dont forget to clear the battery and jumper.Quote:
Originally Posted by SaFrOuT
Maybe the beta bios was good and only was need is a cmos clearing, but i wont touch the beta ever again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaFrOuT
Owning the same piece of equipment, my personal view is that BIOS 15.06 or 16.01 is the best. They are both stable and multiplier is open if you at a later stage decides to do some OC. There is nothing to gain installing a BIOS later than 16.01, at least not in my opinion, as these do not offer anything new, on the contrary. If you decide to go beyond 16.01, you might as well install 20.04.
Good luck to you.
personally I would recommend 1707 - its hard to find any bad post about it and subsequenet BIOS dont seem to have any significant changes. Still horses for courses - what works best for me may not be best for you!.Quote:
Originally Posted by X7007
I am suprised you managed to reflash to lower BIOS without renaming BIOS to P5WDH.ROM. You just cant trust anything these days! On another note - you could try unistalling both the DVD drives in the Device Manager then once both are removed scan for new Hardware. It should redect the drives. Might solve your pronlem - might not but worth a try. It not a physical problem so it has to be windows.
Hey folks. I've flashed my BIOS with 1901 however I have trouble cold booting into Windows XP Pro. The computer loads into Windows fine after a warm boot but It always fails on a cold boot. I have recently purchased a new SATA II Seagate harddrive which I run Windows from but I doubt it is the problem and also the S.M.A.R.T status for this drive doesn't state anything out of the ordinary. I've seen a thread about this on the Asus forums (clicky) but there doesn't seem to be a solution. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
This thread is for P5W DH problems and issues. You look like you have a P5B.
If you do have a P5W has the problem only hjappened since you went to 1901. If so try going to latest beta 2004 or go back to your previous BIOS.
i did try that, unistalling them, it happens in XP and vista.Quote:
Originally Posted by sesdave
i have no idea what is the direct link to this problem, i am so lost.. my all 2 days have became a nightmare.
Check the IDE settings in the bios are okay - check IDE in hardware device in windows to see if its still set to UDMA - people have had problems with it reverting to PIO. The JMICRON seems problematic so I dont use it. If you still have problems try stripping down to a single DVD and your boot drive and start from there.
Test done for those reporting CD/DVD/DVD DL burn issues (BIOS 2004?)
- works fine for CD/DVD/DVD DL with Liteon LH-18A1P and LH-20A1H
- Nero CD/DVD v4.7.5.0 showing DL "Create" and "Bench" results
- CPUZID v1.39 showing P5WDH details
- link to detailed DL test results: http://club.cdfreaks.com/showpost.ph...&postcount=319
- have heard rumors about PIO 112 latest FW and latest Nero having issues.....
INTEL IDE/SATA drivers installed:
Intel iata621_enu-6.2.1.1002
- 82801G Ultra ATA Storage Controller 8.2.0.1008
- 82801GR/GH SATA AHIC Conroller 6.2.1.1002
- Primary and Secondary driver; Microsoft 5.1.2600.2180
- both IDE channels in Ultra DMA 4 mode
I personally think the 2004 is a good bios... haven't been able to overclock this high with any of the other bioses.
bichi, did you actually burn a disc? or run the test?
What I realised was my discs have been failing when burning large files (6-8GB) and the ones which were successful a few days ago were lots of smaller files no larger than 1GB..
bichi,
Allow me to ask, why are you running 10x300 instead of 9x333 to achieve 3GHz? Just disable EIST and you'll be able to run 9x333 just fine and if you do so and test in Everest, you'll see it helps your memory bandwidth and photoworxx benchmark considerably. At 333 run your memory at 266 for an effective 1066.
I'm at 3GHz too, would love to make it stick at 3.33GHz but I need to find a way to keep the heat down, maybe some magic cooler will come out soon :)
what do you call heat? I idle at 48c load 59c with the arctic 7 cooler. I have lapped the CPu but didnt make much difference. I have never fancied water so I too am waiting for the magic cooler - maybe one from Cebit 2007. There were some very interesting HSFs from Akasa - closed loop liquid and OCZ -suck blow prototype on show there plus others from the major players. There may be hope!
Right but I'm using a QX6700 which is double the heat production of a E6700. I'm using an Titan Amanda TEC cooler for the time being and have applied the vdroop pencil mod which allows me to run at 3GHz (9x333) at only 1.25V. This keeps my load temp (4x Prime95) at 54C and idle temps as low as 25C.Quote:
Originally Posted by sesdave
Since Asus hasn't fixed the cpu multiplier bug forcing even extreme cpu owners to use only 6-10 multipliers, I can't run it at 3.2GHz at 1066FSB hence have settled for the time being at 9x333.
All this in a coolermaster wavemaster case which aren't the best for air circulation. I have however used a Scythe 120mm fan bracket to install a 120mm suction fan on the front and a plastic tunnel to divert air over the cpu area.
Nice! That must sort out the heat off the TEC which is the main reason I never went down that route. I still have my old Antec Sonata MK1 - not a lot of room but it does the job okay with a 120 fan input and output.
Coretemp temps? I load at those temps with stock volts and a bloody Noctua :eek: for 1.5v your temps are dam good for such a cheap cpu cooler :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by sesdave
Yes these are Coretemp and TAM temps. They do vary with the weather as my office is in a loft room. I thought mine were a bit high seeing all the other posts. You must have one hot CPU and it doesnt clock well - ever though of ebaying it and getting another. Overclockers have a this week only offer of £153. If not try lapping it - results vary depending on whether the IHS is concave, convex or just already flat which I think mine was close as damn it!. The Arctic is better than a lot of people think - I used its brother the 64 pro when I was o/c opterons and that was very good. I am trying out some other paste to see if it reduces temps - Thermalright Chill factor and Akasa 5022 as they both got write up saying the could drop AS5 temps. I have given up with the 5022 as it speads like glue based dough!Onto the Chill factorsoon as I can be bothered!.
lawrywild,
"...bichi, did you actually burn a disc? or run the test?
What I realised was my discs have been failing when burning large files (6-8GB) and the ones which were successful a few days ago were lots of smaller files no larger than 1GB..."
Nero CD/DVD Speed test suite burns a disk when starting with "Create disk."
"Create Disk"
- gives details about media MID, write speed selected by drive/FW, buffer, burn strategy, write time and CPU usage
- writes data to disk's full capacity (full 8gB, in this case, for DL)
- shows progress, physically, across disk and will show write problems if recalibration occurs (usually bad media)
"Disc Quality" (comparison shown below)
- loads of details about burn quality, ie., PIE/PIF errors and where they occur physically, jitter, etc.
"BenchMark"
- shows details of read-back, ie., read speed/time, read strategy, layer-break issues, and burst rate (good indicator of IDE channel problems)
Have been using this tool for past 4 years, along with other DVD geeks to compare burners, media and firmware with a common reference
There's MUCH more about this tool which comes with using it. Documentation is sparce, much like ASUS firmware details....
Maybe install the tool, do some test burns and post at CD Freaks?
Link to NERO CD/DVD Speed: http://www.cdspeed2000.com/
Link to CD Freaks: http://club.cdfreaks.com/ (Optical Drives Forum is most interesting. Register and you can see posted results)
First is the "Quality" scan of the DL test done in previous post
Second is a "Quality" scan of a Verbatim MCC004 SL +R x16, written at x18 speed, showing dye failure at edge of disk
- demonstrates amount of information needed to determine problem on a "marginal" burn
bichi, what's that app you're using to add those screenshot buttons to the titlebar of any application?
GFORCE100,
"...Allow me to ask, why are you running 10x300 instead of 9x333 to achieve 3GHz? Just disable EIST and you'll be able to run 9x333 just fine and if you do so and test in Everest, you'll see it helps your memory bandwidth and photoworxx benchmark considerably. At 333 run your memory at 266 for an effective 1066..."
Have been pondering making change to x9 multi, but have work related stuff stacked up. I did try x9 multi months ago, about the time Vegas 7.0 and MatLab R2007beta were released. Quick tests showed "i frame" sync slippage and MatLab verification error probabilities were suspect. Reverted back to x10 multi, 300FSB. Will have to give it another try, especially with new Vegas 7.0d release and purchase of new OCZ DDR2-8800 (cheap, nowadays) Will have to rethink EIST power usage vs., performance increase... (machine can sit idle for hours and would prefer to save on energy/greenhouse load)
sniggle
"...bichi, what's that app you're using to add those screenshot buttons to the titlebar of any application?..."
eh? Screen shot buttons and titlebar?
- if its what I think you want, I set focus on target panel and do "Alt-PrintScreen," which clips only the target panel
- target panel clip can now be pasted into your graphics app (I used lightweight, Adobe Photoshop Elements)
Not being cheeky- but you can always switch the machine off when you arent using it and get the best of both worlds!Quote:
Originally Posted by bichi
In the screenshots of your Nero CD-DVD program, there are disk and clipboard buttons next to the 3 standard titlebar buttons. I figured those did quick screenshot saving or copying to clipboard without going through the process you just mentioned. Perhaps those are specific to that application and only save the relevant analysis data.Quote:
Originally Posted by bichi
Ahhh, right! - part of the Nero app and is exactly what they do....Quote:
Originally Posted by sniggle
yep - yer being "cheeky!" - LOL!Quote:
Originally Posted by sesdave
- its when a Matlab analysis or Vegas transcode is run and I'm off chasing old ladies at the patent library and not at the machine at completion time.....
Fair dos - I can understand that. I just use mine for fun.!