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Than that is exactly what I get. lol. Did you ever get an error while in uGuru?Quote:
Originally Posted by new-b
Someone suggested to me I should hook up a UPS because it might be voltage spikes or drops. I hooked up the UPS and didnt hear the beep for about a week The extra beep just came back yesterday. Although I think the battery in my UPS is dead so that probably defeats the whole purpose of it.
Regarding the floppy drive, just go purchase a USB floppy drive.
Plug it in, rest it on the top of your case, and then when you are done unplug it and store it away until the next time you need it :)
Ive LOVED the fact that I have a USB floppy drive at my disposal whenever I need it for BIOS flashes/etc......
Is it 100% necessary? No....but it sure does make life easier sometimes :)
The days of the floppy are over :) Im glad they are....such a pita, im glad we can flash from USB flash drives now
Ok guys, I think I have my overclock set stable and at the speed I want.
I am currently at 378x9 = 3.4ghz.
I have core voltage at 1.3175. Lowering the voltage 1 notch will result in significant errors in Wprime and Prime
I have run prime95 for over 4 hours on this O/C with no errors. Wprime will do the little test in 12 sec and the longer one in 400. My temps are in the high 30s at idle running up to high 50s under full load.
anyways, my question is regarding my ram. I currently have my timings set at 5-5-5-15 running in 1:1 mode with 2.1 Vdimm. I cannot raise my ram multiplier at all or the computer will display POST error code C1. If I set the timings to auto I can run up to ddr 968. I believe my benching scores were a few seconds faster with timings set to auto and using a higher multiplier. My Gskill ram is supposed to me pretty good, any ideas????
one other thing. I have a WD 500 gig that is hooked up via SATA and I am running Windows XP. I believe I had to set the drive up in a certain way that it is slowing it down. I cant really explain this any further because I really dont understand it. Something to do with XP and Sata drivers...
Yep...not only did I get my OS (and new build) up and running without one...now I have an ISO bootable WinXP SP2 CD with the drivers built in in case I ever need to reinstall.Quote:
Originally Posted by myerz635
Also...I updated my BIOS before installing last night with my USB flash drive as well so... :up: :up: :up:
That bios does some nice things :DQuote:
Originally Posted by ncsa
This one is done on the old box cooler :cool::
http://www.gotweak.dk/Filer/2.PNG
Hello...
I have one question
In next day i will buy scythe infinity, and I don't now if have problems to install that cooler?
Hi
I have the Scythe Infinity. There are no space problems. You can install the cooler either way. (blowout top or back). Keeps my E6300@3.28Ghz quite cool (coretemp 45C, ambient 18C).
JuliM
Just do it out of the case. You have much clearer picture there.
Be careful with the capacitors (like in any other mobo)!
anybody know which version of the thermalright mosfet cooler fits on this mobo? http://www.petrastechshop.com/rahesp.html
err i need help guys
i was trying to flash my bios, and everything went fine until this screen came up and asking me to input file name? On top theres a box that already has the file name m629b)14.bin...
on the bottom the sentence "please input file name" just keeps flashing, and the computer seems to be on halt... what do i do? help plz!...
Hm....It should say M629B_14.bin. The ")" might be the problem. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by fatal_error
nvm i restarted and tried it again, this time it worked and updated perfectly
thanks scary but that was a typo =P
Glad you got it sorted ... nice modules there :up:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pederrs
There is another way too.Quote:
Originally Posted by scaryogre
Move your non raid drive with the OS off of the Intel controller and onto the Jmicron. Then enable raid on the Intel controller and install the raid drivers. Now move your OS drive back to the Intel controller and if you want to make your OS into raid you can use the migrate feature of the Intel matrix utility to do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pederrs
So what are they?? Nice!:clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by ncsa
QFTQuote:
Originally Posted by pcdoc1
Money well spent no matter what you do with this board.:up:
Just updated to 16.B04 and i have a problem. DDR2 and DDR2 VTT alarms are set quite low (2.2v for DDR2) thus i get the alarm beep when booting and warning message in uguru. I can get beep to stop if i disable it but i would like to know if it's a known prob with this beta bios?
i had that same problem....i just had to manually set the voltage to 2.1 in bios and then when i restarted the alarm was set to 2.55 lol? makes no sense to me....so im assuming its a known problem
Thanks for the tip. I'll try it.
edit: Just tried it. No go. I ever cleared cmos again, load defaults but all i did is mess it up more. Now temp alarms have gone to 255'C... :p
Going back to 14 bios for now...
i ignored the beep and it went away...smile...don't know how but it did go away!...maybe it was the voltage adjustment...who knows...grinQuote:
Originally Posted by JoeBar
I can ignore the beep. Have it disabled... :p:
However i have uguru loaded on tray and it turns on/off. That's a bagger... :mad:
How did you get your BIOS to flash from a USB flash drive? I tried, and can't.Quote:
Originally Posted by myerz635
not that i'm bagging on this abit board, but my Asus boards can do it. To flash the IP35 Pro, i had to use my USB FLoppy drive and build a boot disk. That sure did seem a bit '80s to me :)
Follow the directions in Ace's sig labeled "ABIT IP35 PRO BIOS FLASHING PROCEDURE"; he has the steps spelled out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Khaotic
EXCELLENT! Thanks.
It was right under my nose the whole time.
Sure would be nice if Windows could do that with its own native utilities.
Or if the Abit board just SAW a USB drive attached to it like an Asus board does.
I dropped in a Q6600 L737 and its been ( still is ) running prime95 v25 stable with loads hitting 59-60C.....It will boot at 3.6ghz be in windows but 1 minute into p95 it gives me a BSOD.....I see that there is a big vdroop because in the BIOS I have the vcore at 1.525 and cpu-z is reporting 1.46V during p95 so is this normal for this board? BTW I am running the latest 16.04 BIOS
Yea, its normal....the beta bios seemed to help with vdroop a little bit but under idle conditions for me, vcore is at 1.52 but the actual vcore is only 1.48 in uguru. Watch the vcore in uguru, the highest reported vcore in uguru is your actual vcoreQuote:
Originally Posted by Volkswagen
So Im about to drop a Q6600 in on my ip35. So far my list of mods to do are:
Flash to newest beta bios
Heatpipe mod
The unit will be under a single stage phase unit. Is it worth my time to do the volt mods on the board also? Any other mods i need to look for?
I think the vdroop mod will also be worth your time. I just did it to my board. Previously, vcore was set at 1.41 in bios, actual idle was 1.37 (which I could live with). But then under load, vdroop was .04 making it 1.33 load. After the mod, I'm setting 1.41 in bios, getting 1.41 actual idle and 1.41 load. (Thank you Jonny Bravo!)
Also, I have a question regarding pwm temp. uguru is reporting pwm @ 90C+ under full load! I know it may be slightly inaccurate because its reporting cpu at 71C while coretemp is reporting 55C, but how hot is too hot? I don't think I'd be able to sleep at night knowing its at 90C. I have voltages at:
vcore: 1.45 (decided to push the cpu further since vcore is rock solid)
mch 1.25v: 1.41
cpu vtt: 1.31
ich 1.05: 1.05
ddr2: 2.200
ichio 1.5v: 1.50
can't ask for any better on the vDroop issue. where is it?
i think you need to do my heatpipe mod....look at the 2nd link in my signature...you probably have that or worse condition on your PWM heatsink.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pharoahe808
Actually I did that mod the day I got the board, before I even got any of my other components. But I didn't get around to strapping a fan onto the pwm or nb heatsink :( I was hoping I could keep it passive. Tonight I'm gonna have to strap an 80mm fan onto the pwm while I load it to see if its prime stable. I can get the pwm to mid 70C loaded using a fan (according to uguru) would that be a decent temp for the pwm? And which temp in uguru is the NB temp, is it system? Thanks in advance
a fan will definitely help to cool the PWM heatsink.
system temp is in the vicinity of the NB...not exact but close enough.
can I see how you mounted the fans to help cool the heatpipe?
hey guys !
the PWM temp are going crazy !!! 90C and the system beeps like hell !!!
Ace_a_rue! please post more pictures and tutorials how to fix this ?
very much appreciated !
my link tells how to do the simple heatpipe mode...try putting a fan on the heatsink...all you need is a 40mm fan...if you have a 60 or larger and not a 40, that will work also.Quote:
Originally Posted by cscheat
images showing placement of the fans.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=760
its very simple,just follow the guide in ace's sig, he explains how to do it thoroughly........Quote:
Originally Posted by cscheat
when i took apart the heatpipe assembly,i had 100% contact between the mosfets and the tim pad.would it be worthwhile to remove the tim pad and use arctic silver ceramique?.
i did mount a 60 mm fan on the northbridge,and built a shroud so to speak,which sits on the fan clips of the scythe ultra,andthe i\o ports of the mb which is simply guideing some of the exhaust air from the 120 down onto the mosfets
i will get some pix posted tomorrow
if you have it apart, i would say , YES, pull the old TIM off and use ceramique or MX2
thanks for the info !!! i will try to get some small bolts and nuts + 40mm fan !
Ace-A-Rue's heatpipe mod link lists out all the parts that you can find and use. My local ACE hardware store had the bolts and nuts in brass, and i subsituted the rubber washer for a nylon washer and it worked like a champ.
The small #40 screw head will have plenty of clearance on the underside of the board. As in, it shouldn't come close to the motherboard tray at all. But just to be safe - I put the electrical tape over the screw heads anyway. I haven't been able to run a stress test to see if it changed anything - but when i removed my heatpipe, the TIM over the MOSFETS only had impressions from 3 of the ICs. The TIM over the Northbrdige wasn't even melted.
One thing i did do, i took the foam square off of the heatsink and matted it down a bit with a rolling pin. Then I put it on the board around the northbridge. It was quite lower than the slug of the NB chip, but it still offered the rest of the components on the flip chip a little protection.
I just wasn't sure how much torque to put on the nut.
I had to RMA my board and am getting a new one in a couple of days. I have never had to do this before and was wondering if anything needs to be done other than a bios update. It will be the exact same board so what do I need to do? Thanks.
what went wrong with the 1st board?
there is a rev 1.1 out which changed cap sizes and the ICS chip.
lets hope the new board comes with either 16.B03 or 16.B04 beta bios installed on it....that is the best bioses around, IMO.
I had always wondered what they changed in 1.1....whats the benefit of those changes?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I just got a board from my local Micro Center earlier this week and it came flashed with the "14" bios. I flashed it to the 16.B04 bios and it's working nicely.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
sometimes money or cost of the parts force them to change; i presume;)
it appears that you have a very nice system with that QX6700 and raptor raid drives....any problem with those raptors working on the Pro board?Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly_Boy
Where can I get the 16 bios?
What do you believe is the best way to do flash the bios?
Is there anything I will need to do when I install the new board?
ace's sig has the latest bios and bios flashing procedures
Oh yeah, that's right, but is there anything I will have to do special to install the new board??
nope
As long as you're not going to do the volt-mod or the HS/bolt mod, then 'nope'.Quote:
Originally Posted by ingeborgdot
Also, when flashing your BIOS follow the directions in Ace's sig completely; use all the switches he notes.
Hi all, great forum.
I have searched a good bit on this and can't seem to find much that will help me. I have already installed vista 64 on my system (w/ ip35 pro of course) and was hoping to add 2 additional hard drives in RAID 1 to the system without having to reinstall windows. Windows is currently installed on 1 hard drive and the other 2 will be used for music, pictures etc. Is there anyway i can do this? I have tried enabling Raid in the bios and installing it as if it were new but to no avail. Any help would be fantastic!
Thanks,
Mike
Using Ace's heat pipe mod, the board now has a very noticeable flex to it. Finding a happy medium between torque on teh fasteners and the amount of flex in the board is so far- my challange.
Ace - did yuo keep the springs from the push-pins and use those on the shank of the screw under the nut to help supply force? Or did you just tighten until the nuts snug up?
Doing this as increased my CPU temp becuase now the board flexed enough that my Scythe Ninja can't make 100% contact. Verified by the blot pattern of thermal compound on the base of the Ninja.
Perhaps a "bolt through board" heat sink mounted FIRST, and then tigten teh nuts on the heatpipe. Or, I did'nt use the springs and I was suppoed to. But one thing for sure, PWM thermals are MUCH lower.
i think you have some other problem...the heatpipe is not like a water block or a vapochill block where you can really clamp down and torque the board!Quote:
Originally Posted by Khaotic
loosen up the torque on the bolts to see if that helps...i torqued down my bolts fairly tight...no springs!
i would suggest that you re-evaluate your cpu heatsink mount.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
The heatsink mount on the CPU is the spring/plunger type like that on the Intel Retail HSF unit. my last mount did produce better contact, but not as good as i've seen in the past. even on an un-lapped CPU.
Did you have to do any bending on your heatpipes? My guess is no. I can't apply very much torque to the bolts before the board starts to flex. I'm still messing with it..............
is it inportant to use the power connector on the bord right over the second pci express slot?? i use CrossFire....? do it help for OC?
all i did with the heatsink was to make sure the heatpipe sat level on a flat desk...it wasn't hard to bend the tubing to make it sit level...if you clamp all the bolts down in unison on all 3 heatsink sections, you shouldn't torque the board at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Khaotic
I didnt read the whole thread but would the IP35-E need a remount on the PWM heatsinks ??
there is a IP35-E thread...good luck with getting answer.
BUT...if the PWM heatsink is almost the same design...i would bet they used a TIM pad...then...putting on some TIM paste like ceramique or MX2 would do better along with a small fan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fdl
does your VC's have power receptacles to be plugged in from the PSU?...if so, i would say you wouldn't need to augment the PCIe bus...BUT...if your VC does not get any additional feed from your PSU then it might be advisable to plug in one of your 5/12v feeds from your PSU...in that scenario, i presume it would pay off if you were going to overclock the VC since it would need more power for the overclock.
here's some pics and result of my lapped TRUE 120 and heat pipe mods. After lapping and installation, using a Q6600 running at 3.6 with vcore 1.47V and MCH 1.33V, idle temp is 30-32C. Under max load, CPU temp is 56-59C and PWM is 54.
After the heat pipe assembly has been removed, put it on a flat surface and make sure it is flat. I used AS5 on the southbridge, and Artic Ceramique on the northbridge and PWM. I also installed 2 40 mm fans on the northbridge and PWM.
@dtube: nice job! :up: i like the lap work! :D
Hi guys
first post on XS ;)
Does a scythe mugen fit on this board? i'm going to buy both as i got some money for christmas :D
regards
Yes it does very well.
Just do it out of the case to have more clear view.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dtube
same here with the GREAT job you did!:up:
guys ! i cannot find the bolts and nuts to do my heat pipe mods !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
any website link i can buy them online ?:confused:
where do you live?Quote:
Originally Posted by cscheat
I got to say that I did enjoy using the board but I eventually killed it while trying to sort vdroop issues using the known vdroop mod! :(
Anyway, every cloud has a silver lineing and Im now using a Asus Maximus and its much better with my qx9650. Votage is stable with almost no vdroop. C1e works, half mutlipliers work, and Im now running at 4.2Ghz @ 1.49v :up: - my IP35pro would not even boot vista at that speed even when I put the actual voltage up to 1.55 (prob cos it vdrooped so much)
So from my experience - I would recommend the maximus anyone with a qx9650. Other chips appear ok with the ip35, the biggest pain is that vdroop.
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Terminal
don't know why you couldn't get it to be stable but as you can see my 9650 worked beautifully (XP SP2) up to 4400 mhz on the IP35 Pro...AND...i was using lower vcore!....did you do the heatpipe mod and did you upgrade the bios to 16.B04???
16.b04 sucks for me, anything over 350fsb and it wont boot. Went to the latest official and im back at 425fsb. Soon as the quad gets here monday well see.
16.b03 will probably be better for you...16.b04 is tuned for the 9650 (penryn cpu).
I was happier with the 16b03 too even though I too use a qx9650. I could only run 450+ fsb with 16b03. Not that it really matters with an extream cpu as the unlocked multi means that almost any fsb will do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Admittedly, I didnt do the heat pipe mod - I dont trust myself with any mods after the vdroop desaster!!
Dont you guys get masive vdroop with the qx9650 on the ip35pro?? I used to get fluctuations of .08 to .1, so 1.55 idle would drop to 1.47 or so. With the maximus I never see more than .03 vdroop - and most of the time theres no vdroop at all.
using 16.b04 and the qx9650, i had no idle vdroop...i discounted what was set in the bios because that was 0.13v off from what uguru reported in windows...uguru overclocking guru was spot on with actual as confirmed by a DMM....SO...no idle Vdroop...under load, it was only 0.03v vdroop....overall, i thought it was excellent...it said to me that a penryn basically was not going to have any idle droop...you can't complain about having 0.03v load droop!
Anyone care to report max FSB with the qx9650 with a 8x multi ?
The reason I ask is the logical upgrade for most of us with a C2D will be the $300 C2Q (45 nm). With the sucky 8x multi anything less than a rock solid 450 fsb will make the upgrade not so worthwhile.
Haven't tried the x8 but this one will do 480 :)
Single G92 GPU stock cooler
3DM06: 18,217
http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=4432286
http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/82d3d663e1.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by glen
does i have problems in my mobo?
i have a kit 2x1g crucial balistic tracer pc 8500 with abit ip35 pro
but i doesn't work when i set ram run more than 570 Mhz
my pc couldn't pass the welcome screen
someone plz help !
how much voltage are you using on your memory?
that's good for a vapo cooling unit...air is going to be less...i couldn't get stable over 460 fsb on my 9650 and the Pro board.Quote:
Originally Posted by ncsa
what bios do you guys reccomend for a Q6600 gO
Hey guys, anyone ever get a performance level of 4. I put some cellshock back in (2x1gb d9gkx) and have it at 335x9 and the ram at 2:3 at 500mhz 4-4-4-12 and I got a performance level of 4. Seemed really low I thouhgt. Is this just from being on the 1066 strap.
I'm getting ready to build a new system? I want to get a QX9650. Is the Pro the best way to go or would the Quad GT be better? Planning on 8 gig of G Skill 1000 for memory.
@Ace-a-Rue
i try vdim from 2,1v to 2,45v and add some votage at CPU VTT; MCH;ICH;ICHIO too but it's still fail(stop at welcome screen)
and can u tell me what's "DDR2 Reference Voltage" ; " CPU GTLREF 0&2 " ; "CPU GTLREF 1&3" ?
should i change them ?
@Ace-a-Rue and the rest of you 1 question!
Please reccomend me the settings for the following categories for 9 x 400 = 3600MHZ DDR2 800MHZ 1:1 Ratio...Thats all I want...The chip will boot at 3600mhz but prime 95 fails within 2 minutes but I have been running it at 3400mhz 1.5V set in bios for 18 hrs prime 95 stable and a week of general use.....I know its hard to give the exact settings but with the speed I want at the low 400 fsb I thought it might be easy for you guys to guide me the right way.....
L737A822 10/17/07 Q6600 gO STEPPING
uGURU Utility > Voltages Control
CPU Core Voltage _____
DDR2 Voltage _____
CPU VTT 1.2V Voltage _____
MCH 1.25V Voltage _____
ICH 1.05V Voltage _____
ICHIO 1.5V Voltage _____
DDR2 Reference Voltage ____
CPU GTLREF 0&2 ____
CPU GTLREF 1&3 ____
My temps are not an issue and the pwn area runs cool....I am using 16.04 Bios
Thanks in Advance :clap:
Quote:
Originally Posted by GARY1951
pro is going to be about the same as the IX38...the only difference is two full 16x slots and 4x slot for the IX38...depends what kind of video card(s) you will employ.
using 2:3 and cas 4 is the driving factor along with a lower FSB.Quote:
Originally Posted by MADMAX22
I"m thinking 8800GTS 512 will be useing system for FSX,and Photo programs, Element 6 and Olympus Studio 2. FSX is very CPU dependent. So I really don't need the super high graphics power.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
i am not a prime 95 fanatic...i think anything over one hour is overkill...it's a waste of electrical energy to prove what!?...nothing, except you are P95 certified....many posters have said, i am P95 capable but a video game kicked back to the desktop or folding failed after 'x' hours.Quote:
Originally Posted by Volkswagen
considering vdroop for idle and load you will need around 1.57-1.58 vcore set in the bios to possibly accomplish P95 at 3600 mhz...i use wPrime (1024M bench part) in place of P95...if i pass that, i should be able to do any bench or everyday tasks.
here is my Q6600 at 3915 mhz which was wPrime capable...you can try those voltages for 3600 mhz to see if that gets you one hour of P95....adjust from there up or down!:)
if only one VC, then the Pro board will be the best bet and less expensive.Quote:
Originally Posted by GARY1951
That is what I thought per all the reading I have done and reading in this forum. Thanks a lot Ace I really appreciate it !!!!:up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
once you receive the board, confirm it operates normally and then do my heatpipe mod.
I am very happy with 16B03 bios.Quote:
Originally Posted by Volkswagen
I'm not Ace but I hope my info here will be useful to you. I'm using 16B03 BIOS. (note: 16B04 default is a little different and temp reporting is way off for me that's why I'm using 16B03). Anyway, using similar hardware as yours at 3.6 GHz, I have:Quote:
Originally Posted by Volkswagen
FSB = 400
Multi = 9
DDR ratio 1:1
Vcore: 1.47V
MCH: 1.33V
The rest are at default.
At 3.8 GHz, I have:
FSB = 422
Multi = 9
Vcore = 1.58
MCH = 1.37
ICH = 1.09
The rest are default
Has anyone tested for the highest FSB on a yorkfield with this board. Either search is dumb or I am.
It's looking as if I might take this over my 780i upgrade.
Ace, Will the board boot up first time with the 9650 so i will be able to flash the bios?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
not sure gary...i had 16.b03 already flashed and it worked fine...if i were to take a guess with Abit, it would be a resounding YES!Quote:
Originally Posted by GARY1951
my 9650 maxed out at a stable 460...i could reach 465 but it was flaky...i think it is a FSB wall for the cpu since i get the same results on the DFI X38 board...plus, it was the same way on abit's IX38 board....that was under air...other types of cooling could achieve better results.Quote:
Originally Posted by [cTx]yaddam205
hey guys..how about voting "excellent" for this thread...i think it is well worth the "5 star" vote...other threads with less participation are rated with 5 stars...just go to the top of this page and vote under "RATING"
I voted 5 star back when I first joined in June; what's it rated at right now?
Oh, and Happy F'ing New Year!!! :D
The mosfets on my board deffinately aren't level with each other. So, since I made a waterblock for them, should I just use the stock brown thermal pad from the crappy factory aluminum sink, or just go with a thick dab of MX-2? Always wary on using TIM on chips that it can squish out over the sides & possibly cause problems.