Assembly Guide - Chilly1 Evaporator.

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Originally Posted by wdrzal

Did you guys ever see in a hospital when they use those thin glass tubes to get blood. they just touch them to the drop and :banana: it sucked right up in." capilarry action" the same happens with a cap tube,if any braze or flux gets near the end of tube,your going to do it again.

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Nice point Walt - You have some good suggestions. :woot: I've learned a couple of things from you since you've been here. :fact:
Thanks

Yeah Walt's a pretty smart guy.

Yea, just crimp the other end shut,it must be open for capilarry action to take place,I flow a inert gas(nitrogen is best) down through cap tube, this prevents capillary action and oxidation.this is best that way it will keep cap tube usually cool enough to keep anything from entering or sticking to it,keeps inside clean too. walt

crimpimg shut is all that is needed

Flowing through a reducing gas like butane or propanes even better than nitrogen. The oxidation that allready was there will be gone and clean copper will remain. A big pro is the fact that practically anyone has propane. This can not be said about nitrogen because the bottles are so expensive.

I braze like this:
http://members.home.nl/epsilon/phase...evapsolder.gif

I've got 3 questions:

1) I see you used dielectric grease in the socket, is it electricly conductive? If so, what prevents a short? If not, how is electric contact made?

2) About the saran / seran wrap. Would the air inside it not cause condensation? Or have you filled it with something else?

3) Can electricity flow through the seran wrap?

Other than that, nice guide! :clap:

DIelectric means it can't conduct electricity. the contact is made because the pins are pushed firmly against the contacts.

the air inside the wrap doesn't contain much moisture so condensation is little.

the wrap isn't condutive though some forms of wrap can become static charged which is pretty letal for the hardware.

dielectric grease in the socket wont conduct electricty. but it does help in transfer of cold to the mother board more. SO none is perfered.
Just have to make sure socket it air tigh.
AMD sockets are easier than the intel ones because of the different pin setup.

electricity only flows through metals really, plastics and greases that contain no metal traces wont conduct.

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Originally Posted by runmc

I put some tape on the card. The insulation tape. That's all. I did put some dieletric grease on the AGP plug.

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I then wrap the card in Saran wrap and cut a hole for the gpu.

http://www.teampuss.com/runmc/Chilly...ran%20wrap.jpg

I also put a very tiny piece of seastring around the AGP plug where I cut the saran wrap to fit over the plug. This seals the saran wrap to the card. I didn't do anything to the power plug. I left a little slack in the plastic wrap and pluged the power cord in. Same thing for the monitor plug. Just plug them in over the wrap.

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How does that work?

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Originally Posted by Epsilon

Flowing through a reducing gas like butane or propanes even better than nitrogen. The oxidation that allready was there will be gone and clean copper will remain. A big pro is the fact that practically anyone has propane. This can not be said about nitrogen because the bottles are so expensive.

I braze like this:
http://members.home.nl/epsilon/phase...evapsolder.gif

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Isn't this method a bit dangerous? I haven't started my hands on training yet, but isn't there a possibility that it could flash back and explode?

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Originally Posted by Metaxas

Isn't this method a bit dangerous? I haven't started my hands on training yet, but isn't there a possibility that it could flash back and explode?

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There is always a chance of an explosion when using propane for purging. Even though it may work great, I don't reccomend it for purging system. NO WAY!!

Technically, there's just as much chance for explosion in a bbq. That's if it's been made right, and assuming you have no leaks in any of your hoses. It's still not the best idea though.

Great instructional post!!!! :toast: :toast:

I have the same torch along with others. Have you tried using the 1/8" copper tube as a distributor and feed it with a balanced-port TXV?