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Evap temp is not stuck...went to -50C right after load was off. Also read as high as -40C when I first booted the system (one indication that I had a much better mount). The longer it ran...it got slightly colder as I set things up in bios.Quote:
Originally Posted by KTE
Vdroop control is enabled...I have not measured it on this board. When I had 1.6V set... it read 1.600V in CPU-z.
On DFI's board you can set the vdroop control ON and OFF. When it's off it wont droop for nothing and when it's on it will give the cpu a break when it's needed...Quote:
Originally Posted by KTE
Ryder is using it ON so the vDroop is perfectly normal and you will find that the Intel cores loves that for stability and in fact they need it. Differently from AMD's that prefer no droop at all.
Thank Capt. Planet for this one guys :)
Same specs as before...Ambient the same as well.
No Load:
http://www.ryderocz.info/cryoz/noload_sg_4200.jpg
Full Load after 38 mins:
http://www.ryderocz.info/cryoz/full_load_sg_4200.jpg
So, if we work backwards... No load at about -44C and loaded at about -7C.
Guys...loads much higher than this...just isn't stable with 4 cores running. I can boot at 4.5G, but when you start Prime....the board reboots. Could be more than temps...but I watched it go straight to about +11C real quick at 1.58V loaded.
Sounds like around 200W or a bit less :)
that's very very good for a "value" SS cooler costing US$299Quote:
Originally Posted by RyderOCZ
i'd buy one if you had stock that works at 230V
I should have an E3110 Wolfie in a week or so. I know Fugger is working with E8x00 which is where this unit would really make some nice clocks I think.
I need a better 65nm Dually...seems 4.5 is the best I can get out of what I have here :(
yeah it does depend a lot on what CPU you haveQuote:
Originally Posted by RyderOCZ
my best ever CPU could not bench much past 4.5GHz either however on LN2 it was a 5.5GHz 3D chip :shocked: (E6700)
but another E6850 i had later would bench 4.9GHz on SS i have EEK but there was a FSB wall so i could not get past that even with better cooling lol
judging performance of this unit on CPUs alone is not the best idea however as they differ SOOOOOOOO much
one of my E8500 chips is the hottest EVER CPU ...... no single, dual or quad core CPU was nearly as hot as this CPU......but LN2 is where these hot mothers shine ;) so one customer may have one of these hot chips and OCZ cooler will stuggle and ppl will jump down your throat saying you rigged something....you know how some ppl can get here :rolleyes:
you guys have sent it to review sites i'm sure.....let's hope at least one of those has some proper tools to test these units accurately
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyderOCZ
Nice results man. Glad it worked for you. So ocz gonna thank me and send me a cryo z to test? :ROTF:
Thanks for the testing Ryder, shows a lot more than we knew before :up:
I'm well aware :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jor3lBR
My main curiosity was, 1.5-1.65v load is where such phase units are wanted more, which is much higher heat load than 1.43v load. 4200 1.43v load is near 200W for a 3000 130W CPU as n0l said.
For 24/7 it'd be a good setting though but for people with Q6600 G0s like mine, who knows - since they bench 42x0 1.53v air just fine.
But MHz is not what matters, that's the CPU limit - the idle and load temps are what matters under the total heat load.
Considering the preice of the unit, the results seem to be very good. Looking forward to Fugger's review.
Too bad you have no intentions of selling it in Europe.
I would like to se some K-Probe temps under idle and load.
Temps on LCD´s have been historicly wrong ALL the time!
hrm... thats what i figured. no way this thing will hold up with a 45nm quad running 1.5v or more.Quote:
Originally Posted by RyderOCZ
In the manual it says:
Max Stable Load-120watts, so holding a quad looks to be difficult, going by the manual.
That.....is.....awesome. Hope i can actually get my hands on one.Quote:
Originally Posted by RyderOCZ
This is a great opportunity for people like me who never really considered moving past liquid cooling to jump right into phase w/o the high price tag. I was hoping to save some cash for an HDTV, but this looks like too good a deal to pass up. 300 + shipping looks nice, especially since vapochills run what, a grand? With what little knowledge I have on the subject, for single stage, this looks promising. :up:
I can't wait to see the entire review and really get a clear picture of this bad boy. I hope its worth it. If its not, I'll just stick w/ liquid cooling.
Hey Ryder,Quote:
Originally Posted by RyderOCZ
You said "my insulation (for benching) is fairly minimal. Nothing in the socket, armaflex under the board and insulation around the socket only".
Those insulation peaces come with the cryo (armaflex) etc? If not where to buy?
Why do you say your insulation is minimal, did you use all the stuff that came in box and it's still minimal or you didn't use them all?
Another question would be regarding the "optional" heating element that should be installed on the backplate (see manual page 11), what is that about, is it necessary to install that on dry weather?
Ty:up:
the heating element is to help prevent condensation from rusting/shorting out the back of your motherboard... i dont think that it was designed for weather related humidity, but overall humidity... for example washington dc vs los angeles *lived at both* on a normal sunny day will have a difiference of 70% relative humidity due to just the environment and could cause condensation and the possibilty of shorting just by where you live.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jor3lBR
additional pieces of neoprene or insulating materials can be found from various online retailers like frozencpu or crazypc.
im new to phase change as well and am very interested in the unit, im just speaking from experience of living in many different places and being bored enough to watch a glass of water condense.
I already posted this in the other thread but got no official response. There are good implications about it, but I'm just looking for the official word.
1. When they appear on the website (however brief that may be), will there be an option to ship to Canada?
I'm inclined to think 'yes', but I want to confirm. For example, as another use pointed out, although it was said they would be available in North America... in that language, it rarely refers to Mexico (which is in NA last time I checked), and many companies feel that doesn't include Canada either. If not I need to arrange for someone in America to be a ship-to address for me, and I'd like to know whether I need to it now or not.
2. Will it fit upcoming CPU sockets? Mostly I'm thinking towards the nehalem-based architectures. I'm assuming the hold-down plate doesn't fit them, but will it be difficult to mod? Will replacement plates be available? I believe the TDP should be about the same so that's not a concern... just physical dimensions.
@Jor3lBR, heating elements are just more precautions to avoid condensation.
I am a firm believer that heaters are a waste of time, they just add more heat into something you are trying to make as cold as possible. With enough insulation and an air tight seal, condensation is not a problem.
Commercial units supply and recommend using heaters because a lot of buyers are first time phase users and need all the help they can get in the battle against condensation.
@Serra, well done, intelligent questions. (<=== not sarcasm if it sounded that way)
Thanks blank I'm a new comer to phase as well :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by {.bLanK} GoD
What you mean air tight seal?! The pc case has to be completely isolated? :eek:
Sorry the noob questions I will probably have to see more guides but they are all made for industrial type or diy phase....
nope...refers to the evap/enclosure/cpuQuote:
Originally Posted by Jor3lBR
Air tight seal around anything that gets cold enough to condensate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jor3lBR
Condensation happens when moisture in the air we breath, condensates onto a cold surface. Like when you remove a coke can from the fridge.
If you can seal off the cold parts from air, then no moisture can form.
The thickness of your insulation depends on how cold it is, it must be thick enough to stop heat transferring through or condensation will form on the outside of the insulation.
Read some stickies, there are heaps, start with this one.
I really appreciate the post. I've only done liquid cooling and this cooler seems to be my only route into phase for a while. There's huge amounts of humidity down here in New Orleans, so I have to be extremely prepared. High humidity is a way of life.Quote:
Originally Posted by {.bLanK} GoD
Thanks for helping out n00bs such as myself.:up:
nice results with a 300$ cooler, will wait for ryder to post "Cryo-z Up for Sale from tomorrow"
*subscribed*
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyderOCZ
In the bios, is cpu adjust temp at +10 or did you change it?