if you know the resistance of the stock board resitor, you should be able just to buy a variable resistor in that range and just use the variable resistor instead. You may of botched your warranty, but it should be fixable
if you know the resistance of the stock board resitor, you should be able just to buy a variable resistor in that range and just use the variable resistor instead. You may of botched your warranty, but it should be fixable
why would you do that if you can do it in the bios?
EVGA 790i - wicked board. I just swapped from Asus Striker II Formula to this EVGA board and I am loving it. My Q6600 couldn't break 3.0 on S2F board, on EVGA 790i my Q6600 goes straight to 3.6Ghz 24 hours prime stable (VCore - 1.5v REAL, RAM 1.9v), all other settings on auto. Easy overclock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kabauterman
The only thing I am missing from ASUS is BIOS layout, LLC option (VDROOP control) in BIOS that worked like a charm on ASUS no voltage drop under load not even 0.001v and LCD poster, kinda handy little thing.
Though automatic reset to default settings on this board in the event of a failed overclock is the best, I didn't have to reset CMOS on this board even once, on ASUS it was a nightmare... had to clear CMOS almost every second time cause it didn't want to reset itself to default after failed overclock, this board is easy - just push reset button and off you go again.
No memory issues on this board either, my first set fired up nice and smooth, on ASUS board I had to try 3 different sets of ram before I found one that would be reasonably stable.
Well, all'n'all this EVGA 790i Ultra board is damn good.
P.S. tried penciling the VDROOP resistor, didn't have any luck :(
Do you think it possible that there is a bios VDROOP modification that can be made so that this can be accomplished on the 790i? A bios hack, maybe. I guess it would depend on the hardware being able to be controlled by the bios right? Anyone know?
has anyone had any problems as a result of their vdroop mods? It's gotten quiet around here.
nope, board has been flawless and i have really been beating the pants off of it. i should have a memory review posted shortly using this board and i have updated my MB OC Report thread with 3D SLI and 3-way SLI runs (9800GTX action), CPU under phase. check out the thread if you haven't in a while...Quote:
Originally Posted by Delirious.
http://www.ocxtreme.org/forumenus/showthread.php?t=3032
just got another E8400 and again topped out the FSB on air at 560MHz with P1/P2 enabled on air and am thinking it is time for a vNB volt mod soon. i haven't updated the thread with screenshots or info about the new processor but that should be up rather shortly.
Hello everyone,
I want to see if the resistance must necessarily weld or can mount them in a different way, I have a vdrop of 0.08 0.09 how can decrease without welds?
vSPP done and done. still just getting started with testing though to see how much is needed to get past 560~565FSB benchable with P1/P2 enabled...but can confirm the mod Dinos posted works like a charm with 20K ohm VR. it will raise voltage from what is selected by 0.05v with a 20K ohm VR so just keep that in mind...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3oh6
Great report 3oh6, and nice results:up:
Your soldering work's impressive, well to me anyway.
What sort of wattage soldering iron do you use? Do you just go in with a dab on the end of an iron, or do you use another method? Any tips you can share?
I've vmodded my GX2, but that vdroop mod looks pretty tricky.
RLM
thanks man :up:
as for my gear, for 95% of my mods i use a cheapo radio shack 9.99 special and an even cheaper tip. i primarily use a 15w iron and with a tip in good shape it is all you should need for any surface mount work. a 30w or more is a good idea for any through hole work like soldering to ground pins of a power connector.
for the IC lead like shown above, i will tin the tip of the wire so it has a tiny bit of solder. the solder is there more to help get the joint to flow and 'accept' the wire than anything. really, you could go in with a bare wire and no solder on the iron tip and it should flow the joint and accept the wire. there should be enough solder at the joint to make a nice solid connection, but i would recommend tinning the wire with a small amount of solder as it will help the whole process along and will ultimately require less heat to do the same job.
the other tip is the one i have been screaming in every solder thread i post in...some listen, some argue, some don't care. one word...flux. it is the best friend to re-flowing a joint. anytime you are doing volt mods you are likely re-flowing joints and adding a wire so flux is a great accessory to add to a soldering kit if you don't already have some. it cleans the joint and allows the solder to flow 100x better giving a nice smooth shiny joint as a result. this means it is a great connection. grainy lumpy joints mean a poor connection...and just don't look good :)
i use a water soluable liquid flux but flux paste is just as good...and a little bit neater.
the only other thing i can say is to practice soldering until your blue in the face. it is all about rythym. get your rythym down and it is all downhill from there. grab an old piece of dead hardware take out the circuit board and just practice re-flowing capacitor and IC lead joints. see how much flux you need and shoot for getting that perfectly smooth and shiny joint. see how much heat works and how much is too much. then start adding in tinned wires and un-tinned wires...see what the difference is. see how much solder you need to tin the wire with...see how much is too much that is causes bridges.
HTH
and the results post vSPP mod are starting to trickle in...CPU was under phase but could have easily been done on air with this monster new E8400 i got the other day...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3oh6
That's quite impressive, but TBH, I was half expecting to open that pic and see a sub 9. ;)
Very strong looking combo tho. :up:
I can't stand radioshack irons.
hahaha, sub 9 at 4900MHz...sorry, not with todays processors. i am working on sub 9 right now though, trying to stay below 5.1GHz...down to 9m 00.015 @ 5094, just gotta get that magic run there :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Gautam
lol at the comment about 4900 sub 9m eek
nice work mate
i really need to get an NB pot i think now :D
p.s. but that run can be faster though..................:)
3oh6,
Great response man, thanks.
I've been using a 40w for the grounding connections and 18w for the ic's, so on the right track.
My soldering works, but isn't macro photography material by a long shot.
'Practice' that's one.
Sorry for going OT, and cheers again:up:
RLM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3oh6
Hey Jody
why not go with a 1K VR
with a 20K, the voltage was already raised 0.05v above what was selected in BIOS. a 1K would put it through the roof. the resistance of the circuit was 776ohms...general rule of thumb for volt mods is resistance x 20. adjustments come right away after tuning down the VR and it is very nice for adjusting so definitely 20K :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
and about that 575FSB 32M time...just testing stability. here is the 575FSB balls out, top of my game time on the 9X multi
575MHz x 9 5175MHz / 1078MHz @ 8-7-6
click for full size...
http://3oh6.com/forum_posted/reviews...-7-6_32m-1.png
and did you see the Everest (yeah i know, so what)...but still, 15K is just a short watercooled SPP away IMO.
http://3oh6.com/forum_posted/reviews...tupidity-1.png
that's sooooo fast man wow :D :up:
i didn't realise that there is a rule of thumb like that :) (about resistance and 20x rule you mentioned)
yeah buddy, this board is just unreal once you get up this high with P1/P2 enabled. the best part is that once i get FSB pushed higher, if memory won't continue on this ratio, you can just turn down the ratio and basically keep the memory right around 1080MHz with no performance loss.Quote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
i can't thank you enough for your initial results post otherwise i would have completely dismissed the reference board and likely got stuck with another Asus turd. this EVGA is just so solid and easy to bench with at these frequencies despite being on the edge of its stability...it is an absolute treat.
as for the 20x rule, it is something you read about every now and then in the volt mod threads, thats where i saw it. it seems to hold true for the most part. in this case with the stock resistance of 776 ohms, multiplying it by 20 gives you about 15K ohms which would be a little low IMO giving about a 0.1v over volt from BIOS setting. so obviously it isn't concrete but generally gets you a good starting point to adjust from.
about Vcore, XFX mobo here, P04 bios, I did the mod with 50k VR and OPV kicked in ASAP, I acctually expect that so I went with 200k and it works now
i'm confused here :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by zbogorgon
why does one work and not the other
FFS, cause with 50k VR resistance is so low, that resulting Vcore would be eg. 2.5V or sth. a few turns on 200k VR and I am +0.05V already
that just doesn't make any sense...i am definitely using just a 50K VR, you can see the VRs i am using in the pics clearly marked as 503.Quote:
Originally Posted by zbogorgon
do you happen to have a vcore read point as well or do you just use the BIOS reporting as well?
what's up with you man :eh:Quote:
Originally Posted by zbogorgon
I don't know, but 50k is way to low for board I am using :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by 3oh6
Hello ;-)
...can someone show me in this pic: http://img180.imageshack.us/my.php?i...dvdroopwq3.jpg
what i must do with the RED point???
Must i do a wire to a 50k potti and from potti to ground??? ...and where is a GROUNDPOINT near by this point???
Thx for answers...