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I think you'll find that if you go with even larger cold plates, and taller fins youll get more performance. Not only that, watt for watt, more peltiers would be better. As you then get a larger heat dissipation surface area. Also watercooling the hots is fabulous and all, but air cooling would be sufficienct if the heat was further spread out.
dayam straight i am :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by littleowl
Well nol gave me an option. If i air cool one side i would have 2 plates to work as chillers.
However nol i thought tec's work better if you keep the hotside colder no?
:D
Thanks!
Going to put some time in tomorrow, should have something more to share by the end of the day.
Shooting to have the blocks done by the end of the weekend if all goes well..
Yes they will, however, they work even better when they aren't moving much heat at all ;) If you have 8 tec's that are smaller, they will run cooler, and each share the load with less on each individual. So you'll have an even easier time cooling them. What size is the fin area? Wouldn't want you to waste the copper. But maybe next time work out a fin area around 5 by 12 inches.
That unit would make it quite massive. I was already worried about the length on this unit.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
But for now i want to try it this way. I just hope martin has fun with all the tests. And i need to hurry and send him my meanwell. :cool:
Thats really not that big, more like two 120mm fans, easily fit into most cases, especially since its a thin unit unlike some rads.
Here is another day of milling, as usual just takes longer than I expected. Only managed to get the internals milled out.
My typical full of chips view....
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/8024/ntc8jz2.jpg
Progress:
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/2186/ntc9am7.jpg
Now I need to start working on the bolts and barbs. I like waiting to finish the block exterior until it's completely assembled. The two pieces will be assembled with Yamabond liquid gasket so it'll be a semi-permanent seal. This is a liquid gasket material for assembling motorcycle engine cases, so it's very durable and can resist coolant, gas, oil whatever you throw at it.
And the mill is sure getting a bit messy, will have to spend a few hours cleaning up this mess... Anyone want some copper/acetal coleslaw?:D
I also recieved the 91Watt TEC's today, so it's coming together..
Wow, didn't see this until I saw it linked in a thread today.
I made a air cooled TEC chiller that uses eight 40w TEC's (IIRC) about five years ago at work. It uses a single 120mm comair rotron AC fan and the TEC's are arranged in a loop that goes up and down a laminar forced air cooling chimney with the heatsinks inside a long shroud.
It was to cool off a rather power hungry CCD imager. I'll post some pics if I get a chance.
Wow... looking very good martin... :up:
yeah... i thought it would be more appropreate in the TEC section then in the watercooling section. And it doesnt fully qualify as "chilled water". The water is chilled, but not to their standards.Quote:
Originally Posted by iandh
:T
Also, didnt want a lot of newbies in the liquid cooling section adding things not relavant to this setup.
Thanks!
Been working on the bolts a little this morning, getting there...That top will definately be secured...:D
HahaQuote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
Good work with the manual mill Martin! :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by iandh
CNC envy...must...get...stepper...motors...:)
Got bolts?
I don't think this top is going anywhere...:D
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/891/ntc10cd1.jpg
20 bolts down...28 to go..:eek:
Looking AWESOME Martin, keep up the AMAZING work!
Ok that is better then I thought you were going to do. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
The fins will be fine with the top like that. but I think the restrictions will hurt your flow rate.
Thanks!
I'm going to pressure drop test the block to see how much restriction there is. If it's too much I can take a little bit more off the ceiling to allow a bit more over the Channels. Currently there is .100" fin height and about .110" clearance so it's pretty much all forced through the channels.
We'll see...
I cant wait to see what happens. :)
Pressure drop tested it, and it's actually much better than I expected. Very close to MCW-30, Fuzion without washer, MC-TDX etc...
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/1...2pdtestit9.jpg
Restriction is not a problem..:D
LOL... mmm wonder if my tiny little RD-30 can handle that. :TQuote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210
Hahah why such a thick peice of delrin/plastic?
Hehe...yeah I thought it was going to be more restrictive than that, I guess the large width and size distributes the flow pretty well. Glad I went with the smaller channels and tight ceiling now..:)
The thicker top was there to provide a couple of things. First the reservoir chambers, this helps distribute the flow into each of the channels equally. Second you can have a barb coming into and out of the ends, and third is for structure. I don't know much about TEC's but I've heard you want something like 150psi pressure on them.
Even the 40mm TECs will still have about 2.5 square inches, that's about 1100lbs of force. There will be a fair amount of bolting pressure, that why I kept the base thickness what it is and why I wanted so many bolts. This makes the base and top act more as one solid block for good strength.
Lot's of pressure on those TECs or so I'm told anyhow..:D
Don't need that much, but damn nice setup and good job :)
You've had more then enough time, more pictures!:(
Sorry, since I was setting up my pressure drop test rig, I ran about a dozen other pressure drop tests I'm doing for another customer. I also need to pick up some more taps, 20 holes for a single 4-40 tap is about all she can take...:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Nanometer
Ok, here is a better picture of the pressure drop test. I did drill and tap the barbs in, that was interesting...I had to clamp it to the side of my drill press table because the block is so long..:D
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/307/ntc13nr0.jpg
Still lots to do, I need to drill and tap all the holes for the second block, and that's four bit changes per hole, because I like perfect countersinks. I end up drilling and tapping a hole on each corner after clamping right through the block. Then I have to drill once clear through both pieces for the tap size, the change the bit to the bolt OD just through the delrin, then I cange again to a 3/16" endmill for the countersink. Then I move on to the next hole.
When I'm all done with that, I get to start tapping just the copper base in each one again in the drill press. Very time consuming...
After that's done I need to drill and tap the barbs for the second block, then I need to cut all the bolts to length, then I can start finishing the tops of the blocks, then take the blocks all apart and bead blast them, finally seal and assemble them, drill the bolt holes for mounting the two blocks together, and finally finishing the base.
Still a ways to go..
Ya and looking quite nice mate
Very nice indeed.