What Temperatures did u guys used for Heatspreader removal?
Maybe it was to hot for the Core, something like a upside down burn in?
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What Temperatures did u guys used for Heatspreader removal?
Maybe it was to hot for the Core, something like a upside down burn in?
I used a cpu pot like the video BUT I had to heat it up to 140 celsius and leave it for at least 4~5 min. till the silicone came soft and able to cut with the razer(probably the video is fake and the HS is already removed).
The thing is that the symptoms appeared before removing the HS.
On MOA final 120 degress and 1-2 minutes, core degraded too.
I try to be useful here :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Kabauterman
This behaviour is because you need to have some buffer between pot and die.
I found out, that if you have direct contact between the large copper block (base of GPU pot),
results will get worse especially in heavy load.
When you have this kind of contact, which is actually super good,
you will not be able to transfer heat fast enough out of the die.
This is the reason you will loose that much MHz. It will propably cause the instant lock up in the beginning of some test.
Nvidia stock thermal paste is shin etsu, which is not good paste in general, but not bad with ln2 either.
It is working pretty well in heavy load and it is possible to transfer that huge heatload to HS.
When you have some good thermal paste in use, you will now be able to transfer that heat from HS to GPU pot.
This way the temperature of GPU is higher and when you have enough voltage they will run well.
Without HS you will get too cold very easily and face some other cold related issues as well.
I actually tried quite thick copper plate between pot and GPU HS and it worked well.
That was my 1455MHz unigine run with that certain DCII card.
The card was a lot easier to hold in correct temperature range that way.
So, my point was that keep the HS on. Keep the GPU warm enough and give enough voltage for it.
Is this card still alive?Quote:
Originally Posted by SF3D
first time (on MOA) we used CPU Pot and arround 100° to do the removal, core degradedQuote:
Originally Posted by Phil The Greek
second time we used Heat gun set at 250° directly to the Heatspreader, core degradedQuote:
Originally Posted by slamms
Unfortunatly it's not the answer to set back the Heatspreader (OCz Freeze between GPU and HS) still degraded core.Quote:
Originally Posted by SF3D
Your point is really interessting and we will test next time the differences with some copper plate.
Later in times of the HD 5870 Lightning we used a Copper plate too, but not for buffering, more for getting more distance between PCB and Pot.
But I think the matter of the degrading cores are to high Temperatures during the removal :(
I used just 95°C on MOA, and that was pot base temp - GPU temperature must have been even lower. They reach up to 95 in normal usage on stock cooling. Removing the IHS did not improve or degrade clocks but it made benching easier.
If that is true, we have two very good Lightnings....Quote:
Originally Posted by SF3D
We will try to add this additional buffer.
But with my physical understanding it makes no sense, why the card have more problems under heavy load without HS.
Because there is more thermal resistance with HS...
In case the thermal paste between DIE and HS is better then OCZ freeze we used after HS removal and can handle heavy loads better, we have to find a equivalent replacement for the thermal paste.
But then it should be fine even without HS and direct contact between DIE and pot.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge...
Andi :up:
It could also be a problem of to much pressure...
Remove IHS and mount pot is often working fine for some time but after a few times benching there could be some problems coz there is to much pressure on core (some bga solder balls of the gpu core could be broken).
That is maybe the reason why a quite thick copper plate between pot and GPU HS and it worked well?
I heared from same issues a time ago (GTX280 - i think Shammy was talking about that) and that some cards worked really bad after a few times benching (bga solder balls of the gpu core had broken and some spacers to apply pressure at the right spots helped to solve that problem).
And also what SF3D is saying is right too - without HS you will easy run into some cold related issues and need really good TIM
without HS there is no cold relatet issue at all on our cards, you can run 1300 MHz on every bench with quite low voltage and not even a bit of a Coldbug.Quote:
Originally Posted by Afrokalle
The pressure was also a idea of us but on the first card (with HS on) we had issues what where surely soldering contact related, after fixing it in the oven and removing HS it worked well again but we had the no HS related issues.
What are the simptoms if you go over 1300MHz? Lockups or strange colors on the screen?
Greyscreen and restored driver like you clocked to high
we have this simptoms too: greyscreen and restored driver.
I think that remove Heatspreader was a bad idea :D
That is true. It makes no sense if we think pure physics.Quote:
Originally Posted by loopy83
The situation is very unpredictable with 3000 million transistor working at 1.6V and 1500MHz+.
GPU die will be a lot more warmer with hs on and if you have extra plate between HS and pot, it will be even more warm.
That does make sense, when we think about current flow + GPU operation + temperature.
There is sort of current sweetspot for every GPU depending of the leakage, which will change with temperature.
For that same reason there is also temperature sweetspot.
I could test my DCII card at 1400MHz at -120C when it needed -135/-140C with HS on.
After 1400MHz I got lock ups no matter what voltage or temperature was applied, if there was no HS.
I reinstalled HS and just did same tests at -140C but I raised only voltage and it was scaling.
Then I kept temperature at that sweetspot and raised voltage as far as it helped something (up to 1.62V).
From this point of view we can make conclusion, that voltage is more important for some GPU's than temperature.
You will need to add more voltage to gain clocks because getting colder propably will not help in most cases.
When you don't have HS on, you will go easily too cold and you loose the current/temperature sweetspot.
Then GPU must have some sort of cold issues, which will lead in to crash or lock up. It might be some certain part of the die, who knows.
Usually this will be solved by driver restore.
All materials have some certain heat capacity and heat transfer cabability.
I think the GPU pot's everyone is using are pure copper and the base is quite massive.
The very heavy load from GPU will heat up the first 0.1mm of copper very fast and the GPU will overheat, cause the load is very extreme.
The massive copper block can not transfer enough heat in that very short time and it will cause problems. This will happen in milliseconds/tenths of a second.
When there is two layers of thermal paste and HS, heat have kind of a buffer zone (HS), where it can be transfered rapidly. Then GPU or some part of it will not fail in the beginning of load.
The mass of the HS is a lot lower than the base of the pot and that might be the reason it is better to be there than not.
So getting more cool, is not always so cool!
blame steponz lolQuote:
Originally Posted by slamms
Lets all go dislike T_M's youtube video on how to remove the HS! haha.
SF3D that makes sense. Maybe -180 is too cold. and -140 / -120 was always the sweetspot, you just didnt know it cause the stockHS was resisting that cold temp
before removal there was even no CB (just without aditional Memory Voltage in 2D Mode lower than -145°) 3D Mode and benching Memory Voltage the Card was fully CB free.
on that last card I tested every 10° down from -100° after the Removal.
from -120° on I can run this 1300 MHz... nothin more.
Replaced HS and I can run 1300 MHz from -120°... nothin more.
In both cases no more CB, even not in 2D Mode or without aditional Memory Voltage. No matter of HS on or off.
SF3D, do you realy think that the copper of the HS and the copper of the Pot make any difference?
Your case is different. You can reproduce the old behavior with replacing the HS but this dosn't make the deal here... :(
unfortunatly...
The problem is somewhere else and we are missing it....
Maybe we need to cool also the PCB of the GPU which holds the traces? Hipro said this on the DCUII thread and it makes me wonder because the stock IHS also makes some contact with the GPU's PCB
I don't have your issues, but again as I told you I never use any GTX580 with IHS :). BTW, that colbug in 2D that you are talking about is from the memory (you must use >1.8v at everytime, 1.9v or 2v recommended).
If you have a very good contact without IHS you don't need to use excessive amount of voltage, 1.48v-1.5v is enough with -120 oC. Also, if with this voltage when the GPU is in high load (Unigine, 3DMark03 Nature, etc) you fill the pot and the temperature is still climbing then you have a GOOD contact (yes, even with fat pots :), Fermi is a monster)
Hope it helps!
I know I just want to show the difference what happens after removal, even the Memory CB is gone... thats wired coz what has the IHS to do with the Memory CB ^^Quote:
Originally Posted by matose
Memory CB is not gone... this just means that memory is warmer without HS... I see no other conclusion.
Implied the memory voltage was the same in both tests.
Maybe the contact between DIE pracket PCB and HS makes the different?
So we have to find a solution to cool the bracket PCB of the GPU, like the HS do and then maybe the extreme load is not so fatal and the processes SF3D descriped are not so important.
The problem to find a similar thermal paste like between DIE and HS still exist.
Or use a very slim pot with not such a fat base... when we can run full pot, mass is not that important and the slim pot acts like the buffer SF3D applied?!
Thank you for this very interesting discussion :up:
^interesting I would like to see how a slim does on gtx-580
I tried it only because I don't have a fat. Up to about 1.35-1.37v was ok on a DCu II. I ran vantage 1200/1200 with a full pot, but pushing to 1.4v+ and the slim just can't handle the load. The pot probe temps were rising 20c and more through a single game test. I expect the temp of the die and IHS were rising even more. I gave up until I get hold of a fatty pot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Splave
Actually ln2 was hard to pour now I think about it. the slim pot opening is so small the liquid was getting sprayed back by the amount of nitrogen gas expanding. Absolute ln2 sucking monster these cards.
I think loopy's idea is a good one. A pot with a slim base that allows maximum cold conduction through to the IHS is a good idea.
No, a slim is not a good solution at all because it cannot candle the load. The solution is to put something thermally conductive between pot and the GPU PCB. I think I will try with plain silicon paste or, better, with dielectric grease
I meant something like a fat pot with a thin base. Rather than thick 1cm or whatever of copper, drop it to a couple of mm to get the ln2 as close to the IHS as possible.
I don't think this will help anything. The GPU need's voltage and when you have never used Hs on, you have learned to bench your cards at some certain temperature range and with some certain voltage. When you don't have HS on you need less voltage, cause DIE is cooler and leakage is lower. Simple as that.Quote:
Originally Posted by matose
Running card at 1450MHz at -120C and with 1.55V is quite normal. It is kind of same to run it with HS on at 1450MHz at -140C and with 1.6V. This is the way I have seen it in my tests.
The instant lock up without HS happens when you go too cold and it might be a lot earlier than you think. I think this is making the confusion.
About the HS of these GPU's we are talking. It is connected to the pbc from sides with very thing glue layer which does not conduct heat well.
It is cooling down the corners of GPU pcb and in that part of the GPU there is traces for memory operation and pci-e etc. GPU will get power behind the die, so I see no point in cooling pcb separately.
I do think that this issue comes from combination of many small parts like leakage, current, thermal power handling, heat conductivity etc.
There is just so many people trying in their own ways, that it is hard to see any pattern. I have learned from my own mistakes and I have my own test pattern nowadays.
It is a lot more easy to make some conclusions, when there is at least some sort of idea what should happen and what should work.
My best DCUII with duniek slimpot, 1300 MHz GPU @ 1.415v ( temp. - 131*C during Vantage, - 133*C = CB, -129*C = fail to pass tests), no problem to pull down temp during GPU tests or to control, of course it's not so easy but can be done :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Booj
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/4836/van4.png
I removed HS from two of my Lighntings.Quote:
Originally Posted by matose
now the first one over 1300 MHz gives a grey screen..
while the second one over 1300 MHz shows me strange color in the screen (like fireworks)
Both benched Vantage @ 1475 MHz (10 MHz +/-) on the core and @ 1310 MHz on the memory :(
So you have the same problem... we just have to find the right way to bench without HS and then theese cards will fly :D
The cores are always capable to run over 1450MHz... in some cases over 1600MHz and now they stop at 1300-1350MHz.
We have to test different thermal compounts, different kind of buffers between pot and DIE, different ways to mount the pot, different pots, different voltage and temperature ranges... one of theese arrangements must help to solve this strange problem.
yes think the same.
Anyway i tested these thermal compound:
Antec Formula 7
ICD 7
MX2
dow corning
with all these Thermal compound i had the same problem, but with the MX-2 VGA worked a bit better.... don' t know if was lucky or what else, but i closed Vantage @ 1330 MHz... then i try the ICD 7 and frequency dropped to 1300 MHz... then tried again the MX-2 and frequency grow untill 1330 MHz... don t know what think about this (i tested MX2 before to remove the HS and it was worse than the ICD7)
My VGA POT is the Kingpin Fat 2nd revision (black alluminum tube)
About insulation i tried everything.... foam, neoprene, frost king, armaflex, vaseline.... all but everytime the same problem
About Temperatures I tried everything betwen -80 and -180.... and VGA worked better @ -90°C (1300 MHz was possible every time, while with other temperature sometime i had problem - grey screen or fireworks-)
before i thought this...
when we mount the pot with HS or without HS on the VGA we use every time the same force.. because we tighten the screws or the bolt to the same limit every time.
but if we doing so, the pressure without the HS is bigger then the pressure with the HS, because pressure is: Force / Surface, and so:
if we mount the Pot with the HS we will have a X value of Force that push on a Y value of Surface,
while without the HS we have the same X value of Force that push on a Z Value of Surface.
So if the Z value (core surface) is lower then the Y value (HS Surface) is easy understand that, with the same mounting, the presure on the CORE is bigger then the pressure on the HS.
Could the problem be this? Because if is so, we should try to tight lower the screw or use springs and see what happen.
Yea but less pressure means worse mounting, i doubt its a mounting problem. Too much similarities between everyone.
I still think matose is right.. the HS was cooling allot more than just the core, it was cooling the little resistors there and the PCB
Im ready for gtx-680 :X getting sick of 580
I agree with you my friend, last weekend I tried 4-way on LN2 and during Vantage (1100 MHz GPUs) I got freeze and 3 GPUs are dead... DCU2
Bout time :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Splave
anyone using a backplate on GPUs?
me, but nothing changedQuote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
anyone yet tried a piece of copper between pot and core?
More thermal barrier might yield some interesting results....
anyone yet tried a piece of copper between pot and core?
More thermal barrier might yield some interesting results....
Hey guys,
this weekend we collected some new knowledge about the Problem what I posted some time ago with the Heatspreader less cards.
We ordered different compound do see if there is some difference between them espacially in use without Heatspreader.
After SF3D's post about his experience with HS-less Cards we had some hope that our good cards what no more have a HS can run like before :cool:
Compound what we tested:
Arctic Cooling MX2
OCZ Freeze
Prolimatech PK1
Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra
at first MX2 is crap at all, long time we used this Compound and we never had problems with it, BUT compared to others it's the worst, coz even with Heatspreader a Card with MX2 could run maybe 70 to 100 MHz lower coz of temperature caused issues.
All of the conventionell Compounds aren't able to solve the HS-less Cards Problems
OCZ Freeze is/was our favorite for LN2 GFX... but it's hard to get it and without Heatspreader it was not able to allow clocks above 1300 MHz.
Prolimatech PK1 is quite similar to OCZ Freeze, unfortinatly we had just a little bit of the Freeze left and so we can't compare Freeze and PK1 directly, but clockrates on HS-less cards are the same 1300 and no more...
Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra is Liquid Metal, highly conductive and you have to be very very careful to short no circuit on the Card, but the good is, the Liquid Ultra has a Heat Transfer value wich is 10x higher then usual compound.
With this you have a Metal connection between GPU Core and Pot's Base. We where able to run 1450 MHz with this, AND it was quite impossible to push temperatures down during a run, even without so much voltage.
This means 150 MHz more and no more limiting by Grey screens like before (without HS and with usual compound)
but, the Liquid Ultra is just a realy thin film on the GPU core, it is not made for filling up uneven edges and it is hard to mout the Pot right, coz if you have to much pressure and the card is bending the Liquid Ultra will not have perfect contact on every edge of the GPU core.
Another unfortunat point is that you need to heat your Pot up to positive values until you can release it, coz the Liquid Metal become hard on sub Zero.
And it is a dirty work to remove the Liquid Metal... on the GPU core it is ok, but on the Pot you need to polish the Base to remove all the rest of the Liquid Metal.
But for now we know that the problem with Heatspreader less cards is realy a temperature issue.
The compound on the GPU Core can't transfer the Heat fast enoght and so the GPU overheats.
Great data kabauterman!, here is very very difficult find ocz freeze, i have a little bit more, but when this is over, i don't know witch compound buy, the Phobya liquid metal thermal compound Paste LM is available in my city, and arctic silver sure. i need to take one of this when my ocz is gone
BR
PD: sorry my bad english
hmm well done Kabauter!
So why can we run fine with HS on? and normal compound? Is the paste between HS and Die really really good? even if it looks bad.
Quite amazing that it is so much temp related. getting the right heatpaste is really a big issue
oh and is 1450 the max of your card?
so you can do 1450 - with hs - with normal paste
and 1450 - without hs - with liquid metal
double post..
kabauterman did you short the (ocp)resistors that giorgio posted?
these cards are out of stock in north america :(
On the Card what we tested now the maximum was 1450 3DMark06 before the removal and now without HS and Liquid Metal we tested 1450 in 3DMark03Quote:
Originally Posted by Vivi
we had some (not so important) artifacts on the run with Liquid Metal but we are sure it was a wrong mounting, like I wrote in the last part of the post.
But nevermind, 1450 with some mounting related issues is a lot more than 1300 and every step more Grey screen.
Vivi, I don't know but realy the original compound it something special not compareable to the things on the market.
Some years ago I heard about a test of Intels Stock Heatsink with the Original compound premounted on it against 3rd Market compound and the Intel Orig. Compount was 5° to 8° better that the best "high end" compound
No Honda we didn't used OCP on the Card what we used for the compound test.
The original thermal paste between core and HS is made by Shin Etsu: http://www.petrastechshop.com/shx2thco1gr.html
That is the exactly same stuff in small tube. It can do the job pretty well, like we have seen. How it can do it, is another good question :)
i see now SF3D said this long ago
anyone tried no heatpaste? like lap HS and lap GPU pot perfectly?Quote:
I try to be useful here
This behaviour is because you need to have some buffer between pot and die.
I found out, that if you have direct contact between the large copper block (base of GPU pot),
results will get worse especially in heavy load.
When you have this kind of contact, which is actually super good,
you will not be able to transfer heat fast enough out of the die.
This is the reason you will loose that much MHz. It will propably cause the instant lock up in the beginning of some test.
Nvidia stock thermal paste is shin etsu, which is not good paste in general, but not bad with ln2 either.
It is working pretty well in heavy load and it is possible to transfer that huge heatload to HS.
When you have some good thermal paste in use, you will now be able to transfer that heat from HS to GPU pot.
This way the temperature of GPU is higher and when you have enough voltage they will run well.
Without HS you will get too cold very easily and face some other cold related issues as well.
I actually tried quite thick copper plate between pot and GPU HS and it worked well.
That was my 1455MHz unigine run with that certain DCII card.
The card was a lot easier to hold in correct temperature range that way.
So, my point was that keep the HS on. Keep the GPU warm enough and give enough voltage for it.
I'm having CBB issues below -110C, even with LN2 BIOS switch. All other dip switches on also. Is that typical on these lightnings? Or do I need to short a resistor to save on LN2? PITA warming back up:mad:
CBB issue has nothing do to with the BIOS Switch, the BIOS is just for the Cold-Slow fix.Quote:
Originally Posted by Q56_Monster
CBB would be removed after you Switch the Xtreme Cool 2 Jumper to "ON"
I ordered some tubes from US.... hopefully they will arrive soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by SF3D
Thank you very much for the information Pete :up:
Hopefully on the next weekend we can add Shin-Etsu X23-7783D Silicone Thermal Compound to this list :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Kabauterman
Looking forward to that test result! :)
Thanks for information, i have one lightning coming here and after reading these i wont even think to take hs off before there is one 99% sure solution found :P
I have 5 different thermal pastes here so i can try some of them to see wich is best one. (AS5,Gelid GC1,Zalman STG2,Thermalright CF III,Revoltec Diamond and maybe some AC too)
Too bad i have only slim pots here, lets see how much voltages it would handle. Maybe not enough to get mark11 over 1300Mhz gpu.. :/
I ordered also this paste yesterday... so we can compare it to the other ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by SeMbEr
GC-Extreme is very good, that is what we used in MOA EMEA Finals. We did ~1450MHZ in 3DMark 2011 with 1.5v and -130, the paste looses contact is you go lower. Without IHS, ofc :)
thanks matose...i tried that too but it freezes early for me...maybe i try again. it has very high thermal conductivity thats for sure.
So lower temps then -130°C are not good without HS in your case?Quote:
Originally Posted by matose
Which pot?
I think we have to test the GC on a HS-less card.
The problem is that the paste looses the contact (Freeze is good until about 150-155 C from what I tested on 990X), it does the same on CPU.
The pot is Ryba's fat, I have other paste to try but no time and no LN2 :(
Hey guys,
this weekend we selected some further experience with thermal paste.
We tryed the Gelid GC Extreme and on the first run we have seen how crazy this paste is working! Damn the heat transmission is so good that we can run same clocks on 10 to 15° higher temps. Crazy!
But lower then -150° on the Pot Base and it cracks... damn! can someone give us a mix of Gelids heat transmission and Freeze cracking point? Is Thermal Pasta mixing possible? :D
Freeze just cracks if you are running full pot, so you need to hold the tempereatures near to the full pot point but never fill it up realy.
For our runs we used the Freeze coz it is better controlable.
Unfortunatly the Shin Etsu not arrived here in time so we need to test it another day.
And we had no time to test the Gelid on a Heatspreader less card but from the behavior on the with HS Card it could be that the Gelid is the Holy grail of HS less benching.
So for those crazy runs, you used Freeze at.. -170 .. -180c, and IHS still in place?
Didnt the stock shin-itsu "crack"?
anyway, congratulations on those great scores guys. Really well done! :up:
-150 to -160° with Freeze and IHS still in place
now we dont have the shin but soon we test
thanks man ;)
He means didn't the stock paste between die and IHS crack
We noticed no problems there....Quote:
Originally Posted by ME4ME
The two other crazy cards also had not this kind of problem.
yea i also want to know that?
the paste between core and ihs does it never crack? :P
edit: aah thanks loopy.
Told you :)!Quote:
Originally Posted by Kabauterman
After -130 the paste don't crack but freezes and looses the good thermal transfer it has. Try not to go over -130 and maximize your clocks there, you'll be surprised ;)!
Yes, it works great without IHS as I said couple of posts ago ...
Happy to hear this from you m8s.
Someone tested the Arctic Ceramique 2?
This new compund, by datasheet, can work untill @ -150°C... will be true?
mate it cracks, load and clear like Freeze :D we will test soon again for now we need a little OC cooldownQuote:
Originally Posted by matose
next on the "to order" list but Ceramique 1 sucks, bad to apply and no good heat transmissionQuote:
Originally Posted by canna1988
http://www.aquatuning.fi/product_inf...at---4-8g.html
Could that be good enough to test? Havent ever heard about that paste before..
Atleast its damn high prised :D
Try to mix that gelid and freeze, it could be pretty perfect if ur lucky :) Cant find that OCZ freeze from finland so i have to test that Zalman and revoltec diamond atleast.
Arctic silver is bad in gpu's? I have used that on phenom overclockind with fullpot many hours without problems, but maybe thats lilbit different situation :)
the thing with phenom and any other previous -180 benching is that the core didnt crack because the heat coming from load source was not allot. But the 580's make so much heat the difference in core and pot temp is big enough to create the crack.
I think thats how it works
Yeah, i tough so too and thats why i said that its lilbit different story with CPU :P
And i have only slim pot here so its gonna make things much harder too -.-
I would be happy even with 1300-1350MHz gpu clocks with that pot. Il have some results on weekend when mine LN2 comes finally.
Hi guys what about MX-2 and also between HS and core? or it's better to live the sinetsu i don't know.
MX-2 is the Worst we tryed! take it to the Bin! In our comparison from bad to good paste MX-2 is the worst!Quote:
Originally Posted by aristidis
Hi,Quote:
Originally Posted by Kabauterman
I have the ceramique 2 here, but no time and ln2 for test it, maybe i can do something in the week end, but not sure about this. ;)
Thanks but for the moment i haven't any better one, only a very small amount of OCZ freeze. I think that I'm waiting for EVGA frostbite.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kabauterman
:)
evga frostbite you can buy from evga store
Before i Used the Innovation Cooling Diamond 7, and it worked well with HS (1500 MHz Vantage), but sucks without HS (1350 MHz all benchmarks)Quote:
Originally Posted by SeMbEr
Don' t know if the Innovation Cooling Diamond 24 Carat is better... :(
24 Carat is just bigger tube, that's all. There are some tricks for benching without IHS, I'll share after I'm sure I'm not wrong!
Tested alot of stuff the last couple of days. Tried the Gelid Extreme thermalpaste, and it worked surprisingly good. Actually, it works better then Freeze, atleast at the same temperature.
Also without IHS, it works fine. Seems it sticks better directly to the silicon than other pastes do. Problem is tho -as mentioned-, it can only handle -130.
All in all im reaching about the same clocks we did at MOA (1400 to 1450). So (-120 / without IHS / Gelid Extreme) = (-150 / IHS in place / OCZ Freeze).
If you have time, try also OCZ Freeze without IHS from what I saw Freeze is better at the same temp (at least on Gulftown).
ilove gcx :D
Tested it many times before, but results where bad.
But ive changed some stuff since then ... will re-try tonight with Freeze :)
tomorrow gc xtreme will be here.
at the moment i am testing the ceramique 2.... first impression is not good. crack @-105.
also Heat transfert is not really good....
I will come back with some news in 1 hour
thx for the infoQuote:
Originally Posted by matose
Freeze don't works without IHS to bad heat transmission can't go past 1300 MHz like all the others else then GelidQuote:
Originally Posted by matose
Nothing, as i said before the ceramique 2 is not the good way :(
Just tested OCZ Freeze, without IHS.
Even tho me and elmor have tested this many times (with bad results), today it worked much better.
I just used a very very thin layer, and spread it with the little plastic thingy shipped with the Gelid paste.
Contact was superb, and so the results where quite good too.
Temps and clocks matched the results from earlier today with the Gelid paste.
Freeze doesnt freeze quite as early as Gelid tho, and -135 was fine. Colder = cracks.
But -135 was enough to easily do 1450, while it crashed 10 seconds into GT4 3d11 at 1500mhz. Then ran out of LN2.
Need to do (even) more testing :)
^ very promising results
where did all these monster lightnings come from :D
you just need to do ocp mod
Have anyone tried normal Gelid GC1 paste? I have one of those here, maybe worth of try on weekend :)
I will order some of new Gelid and IC7 if i just can get those here before weekend -.-
I tested 5 pcs this card and I think all 580 Lightning have capable for run 1400 but for higher than 1400 need some trick and learn....and of course good card/bacth :)
I ran at MOA without IHS and with Freeze. Worked alright, 1425/1365 if I'm not mistaken.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kabauterman
I have some thermal paste I might start selling that is alright though, from what I've heard, it's not for sale anywhere (comes from an OEM). :D
yess I have tested and almost the same with MX2.Quote:
Originally Posted by SeMbEr
What afterburner you guys use with lightning btw? MOA version or some other?
2.2b5
If beta is not working anymore... change system date to April 2011 :)
PM me if you want new version AB xtreme without change system date.Quote:
Originally Posted by loopy83
Tried a couple of TIM's yesterday and today on GTX580 Lightning without IHS:
- Gelid GC-Extreme: 3DMark2011 @ 1425MHz with 1.47v @ -120
- Homight taiwanese silver paste (from Andre): 3DMark2011 @ 1370MHz with 1.47v @ -190
Will try OCZ Freeze because it was excelent on the R6970 Lightning, the contact was so good that the pot barely could handle the heat!
Thats the same stuff EVGA sells, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by matose
worked good for me. 1525mhz 3d11 1.75v @ -195(load -186)Quote:
Originally Posted by ME4ME
1.75v .... must be pulling 1000watts :D
Worked well for me also, 1550 through 11 @1.52v -179 base temps
lightning ?:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Deux
strong gpu
Quote:
Originally Posted by ME4ME
What Vgpu to run 1450 ?