I'd love to see pics of that if you've got a link, I have a spare TDX, and I need a NB block :D
Printable View
I found them :)
Shipping almost anywhere this time of year is alway backed-up. I'm sure you guys will get them soon.
wat sort of fittings are they on the cpu block are they those compression fittings or whateva there called
You guys might be right.
I will take a chill pill for 1 more week...
I have to say I am being tested though. ;)
I never realized how long 23 days could be.
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/5808/pic074aq4.jpg
2 EK NB block, are holding up 2 more killer rigs going online!!
Sweet setup BTW!! :clap:
Here is a wide angle of my cool Ohio unfinished basemant (Built in 1917), and the resting location of the Keg.
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/9404/pic072jm4.jpg
My TJ09 will be on the right hand side of my desk when it is completed.
http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/8506/pic075pw9.jpg
I think I will be running the hose and power cable behind the unit, to connect with my computer.
I could turn the unit around, but then the RAD would be facing forward...
Not really sure yet how my final setup should be.
I am thinking about mabey using one of my old PSU's to run the Keg. I would put it behind the credenza, and plug it into the power strip that fires up the computer.
When the power strip is turned on, the pump would start. It probably wouldn't take a strong PSU to just run the KEG?
These are the ones fitting the Maximus Formula MOSFETs right?
Can anyone tell me if they come with thermal pads, or do you order that separately?
Quick question, I put a very small scratch on the green pcb surrounding the NB. Will this damage the board in any way ?
Thats good to hear. This happened while I was trying to remove the thermal paste that was stuck in between the notched out portion of the heatsink.
ok so its been 3 weeks when the post man comes today or 15 biz days cool o @#$%^&* than im going to go buy a canon hv20 hidef cam if they have one and it works ok. ttyl if i get waterblocks will be one of my first hidef recored items.
"Deputy of Counter Intelligence" (DCI): Leader of the precinct, a supervisor position. This person handles the most difficult customer issues and manages other Agents. Responsible for the day to day operations of in-store locations.
you have one day to tell me where i work hm :yepp:
you are correct not a bad job pays good, fun to.
O already have the cam just came back from the store woot one canon hv20, bag, big battery, 4 HD mini dv tapes.
In the past i was also the
"Double Agent" (DA): Offer in-home services and some services for small businesses. The 'Double' part of the name refers to the fact that, when they are not busy doing services for clients in their homes, they return to their precinct to help train and support the other Agents.
"Counter-Intelligence Agents" (CIA): These Agents are located at Geek Squad Precincts, working at the precinct 'counter' in order to provide customers a wide range of computer services and handle most of the repair work on computers when they're not at the registers ringing up computer packages.
And yes i have the badge for the DA and have a new DCI Badge on order ( Takes something like 6 months to get )
yep correct
ok so mail is here but what is this its o nothing so much not fun.
wonder if the waterblocks will ever make it.
Another question, I'm currently installing my HR09 Type 2 moset coolers and the one on the I/O side is touching 2 caps. Will this cause a short? Cause any problems ?
Nope, considering what Paypal would have to say about the lack of delivery.
I just keep getting more disappointed.
I know exactly the 2 caps your talking about. When I did my drilling, you can see 1 hole was totally intact. I strategically placed that hole at the top of the left MOSFET. It allowed me to not use the slide mounting bracket, and just the bolt to mount it. This kept the sink as skinny as possible, and allowed me to not make contact with the 2 caps causing you problems. My sinks do however touch a few of the R68 blocks (V-regs?).
I too hope that is not an issue.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/1953/pic064ha1.jpg
Thanks for the reply. I think i'll just use some spare mounting hardware and use your method for the I/O side. As for the top vregs, they are just missed by the stock hr09 mounting hardware.
Mine too, only the left MOSFET sink touches some v-regs. The top sink is A-OK. ;)
On second thought, i'll just use the stock mofet coolers as the closeness of the HR09 is too close for comfort.
I recieved my Maximus Formula today and tried straight away to remove the chipsetblocks.
It was pretty hard to remove, and tbh I didnt want to fiddle around too much with a screwdriver in the corners.
So I put it outside for 30 minutes (the temp is -7 C), and then I could just lift it off with my hands :clap:
Now, cleaning the NB is another task all together, after 1 hour with isoprop I still havent been able to clean it. That's some real sticky crap they have used.
Can anyone let me know if over tightening EK 1/2in barbs will cause a leak ?
I think it could if the O-ring was damaged? Not sure.
Talonman did you get it today?
Nope, and Sunday is a no go for sure...
I take it you had no luck either?
It turns out it just needed to be tightened further. Here's a pic from last night before I started leak testing.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...cture002-1.jpg
Damn - there's not much room between that Corsair ram cooler and the graphics card :eek:. Did you put anything between them to prevent shorting?
I'm going to have the same problem unless I use the lower slot - still trying to decide :shrug:.
Glad you got it fixed. But beware, many folks tighten barbs TOO much and pop the O-ring out of whack. I did that one time when I was starting out.
Looking good Darkatom!
Finaly my NB block is here. I will get it fitted tormrow and the rig running hopefully
Theres actually a lot of room between the ram fan and the graphics cards, it just doesnt look so in pics. As for the ek barb, I was having some problems with the bottom one of the res that went to the pump. Eventually I just tighted it all the way gently and it stopped. I left it running all night and no more leaks.
We can only hope...
It took a good 10 minutes with the hair dryer warming the heat sink, before the stock goop let me gently wiggle the ROG cooling free.
Remove the 4 screws and all pins before starting.
Never pull up! Just gently wiggle side to side. It will start to move when it's ready....
Ware a glove as the sink get's hot with hair dryer heat blowing on it.
Mine was coaxed off successfully.
Try to avoid over heating the mobo if possible.
The stock goop will be semi-molten when it slides free. It is the ideal time to use some acetone to clean the rest off.
Thx for the quick reply. Already violated one of the rules (never pull up doh!:shakes: ). Ill try this tomorrow, and include it in my worklog to appear soon.
Hope your package arrives soon. Peace out.
U2! :p:
sorry i havnt been keeping up with this thread (i really should), theres just so much to read through to catch up!
I want to take my stock NB waterblock off of my primary loop, i was thinking of getting a single MCR-120 and mounting it ware the rear fan goes. would a singel mcr-120 be enough?
ill be oc'ing a lot and i dont want to over heat anything. so eventuily ill be getting better waterblocks for my Maxiums that will run through that MCR-120. so ill have two loops, My Primary loop (CPU and GPU) with two MCR-320s, and my Motherboard Loop (NB, SB and mosfets) with one MCR-120.
sound Good?
hey guys, i was wondering how the hell did u guys take the stock heatpipes off the board? lol all i see is the black springy stuff and i have no idea how to remove it. And if i remove it, could i place it back on again for warranty purposes?
For me taking off the stock heatpipe was easy, now removing the paste fromt the nb/sb was a PITA :shocked: . I finally got my system up and running, i'll go ahead and post some pics when I install some cc tubes. On a side note, the mcw30 chipset block was a very tight fit as the block was just a hair shorter compared to the mounting holes. Oh and I had no idea this board had an led light for hdd activity, my 8800ultra was covering it up this whole time.
AS - Cleaner A+B is pretty good at handling the stock goop on many mobos.
Just curious, has anybody lapped the IHS on their NB?
Tal, did your package come today my friend?
Finaly NB block come today. Fesser Black UV is a mega PITA as it froths up loads.
Anyway im still bleeding air out and leak testing, hopefully tormrow i will get system back up and running. 6ft of hose was just enough, 8ft been much safer and better
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...E/PC170186.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...E/PC170187.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...E/PC170190.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...E/PC170191.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...E/PC170192.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...E/PC170196.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...E/PC170197.jpg
Please excuse the mess, not cleaned my PC room for a few weeks. Case has yet to have mods finished off still but i wanted to play now!
Here's a pic of mine when I was leak testing.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture084.jpg
Both your system are looking killer boy's!! I am jealous, but plan on catching up some day. ;)
I have not seen anybody lap their IHS yet...
No package, it turnes out my Paypal transaction was an unregistered one with EK. I needed to click 'Return to merchant' after completing the Visa/Paypal step. I have contacted Eddy at EK, and am 100% sure now, that my order has been processed.
The up side is that now I will be receiving the new correct ring for the NB to fit the Maximus correctly. I do love that entire idea, and am dwelling on that happy thought, to offset my 27 day little life lesson. ;)
The truth is I was planning on getting a new GTS from EVGA, and then using the 90 day step up program to get a faster card shortly there after. After buying Vista 64 Ultimate, I began dipping into my GPU money a tad. I think now that my build has been posponed this long, I probably will just get the super fast GPU I really wanted right off the bat. No stepup any more. I am hard at work generating more blow money, so I can get exactly what I want with no compromise.
In a twisted way, this delay might have helped me out?
I am going to do my level best, to build the system I always wanted. A NB block that has EK's sexyness, with a correct fit, and mabey a 9 series enthusiast card will now be part of the plan.
I do have my 8600GT if I want to just plug something in there to get up and running. I will have to see how it all works out in the end.
I am back to being in good spirits agan, and my tail has returned to wagging high in the air. :up:
I think your going crazey Taloman :yepp: . I'm sure its going to be worth the wait in the end.
I am sure it will be! My wife thinks some evil feaver has taken me over, and wont pass until I buy every computer part man has ever made. It is a good thing I keep her well watered and fed or she would be bent out of shape. I will have about 5 grand in my system when it is completed. I have already crossed 4 now withought the GPU.
The GPU is the main event for me, all this has just been backing so far to run the beast of a card Nivida is hard at work making for me....
I just dont know what it is yet???
Good times are a comming...
I get the same feeling :para:
I talked to eddy and he sent me a list of blocks that im going to buy.
im just waiting on the funding. Im selling a few old parts like my 7800GS on ebay and I have a feeling that card should (for the most part) pay for all of these:
1x EK-NB S-MAX
1x EK-NB/SB ASUS 3
2x EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a (X38)
All with the 1/2" chromed barbs at $178 total
Cant wait to post my pics of this monster. :p:
Sorry, I meant "doesn't seem at all possible". Typo.
Well, maybe if you somehow take the heatspreader off the board, lap it, then somehow reattach it.
Sorry for seeming so frank in my first post. No harm done, hopefully?
Cheers, Webster!:toast:
good enough??
what does that mean??? :shrug:
I got the NB block to fit by not bolting it down to the mobo. It was fiderly but i did 2 mounts at a time in a digaonly, one is at an angle. The other issue i found one bolt was longer than the other by a mile. QC is needed loads, base of block was scratched loads as well. Meh it's er, it fitted and didnt leak all night.
Off now to get it back up and running now leak test is done. Hope she works still
Ah man that sux, I had large green and pink vertical lines in an old GeForce one time, it didn’t work for me ever, but I gave it to a friend and he said it worked fine for a few hours or so and then it did the same thing (kinda like it was a heat issue :shrug:).
And yea I've looked through a bunch of the pictures but I haven’t seen any issues with the NB blocks. Looks like all four holes line up and are bolted down snug. Is there an issue I should know before I order from EK?
P.s. sorry I haven’t been keeping up with my responsibilities and reading this thread as I am a maximus owner :shakes:. Sorry and ill try to catch up.
But if I order a set of EK blocks, they won’t fit?
Pete,
I ran my loop a little different between the EK 8800 block and South Bridge. I see you have an awkward turn between these two.
Check it out.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&d=1198000598
hey Snyxx,
which barb are you using as the inlet?
Exahertz,
Danger Den 1/2" High Flow in the MCW-30 Southbridge and an EK on the MOSFET block by the CPU.
Never liked the plastic barbs that came with any of the Swiftech products.
Ok, sorry for misunderstanding. My radiator is at the top of my case, so the inlet is the MOSFET without the tube shown. My reservoir is near the bottom, so the exit is from the south bridge block.
I actually spent a lot of time with my mobo in front of me working out the cleanest tube routing. I tried several combinations and this looked the best that did not require weird bends.
It does not really matter, the water temp is basically the same throughout the loop. I had temperature probes in two places and the delta was very small.
:clap: :clap: order came intoday and is in the water leak test so far none and its beed about 30min.
will be posting pics soon
I've got some money saved up (my stuff sold on Ebay ;) ), and im ordering my blocks tonight! :D
[update]
blocks are on order :up:
This thread is awsome, thanks Talonman for starting this up. for the longest time i thought i would have to get MIPs blocks to cool my maximus. and who has the money for those?
Anyone have any insight as to wether the scythe slip stream fans work well on rads ?
OH GFX card was defo dead! Got a new one today to replace it via a tiny amount of fraud..... :-)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...E/PC180186.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...E/PC180187.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...E/PC180188.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...E/PC180191.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...E/PC180195.jpg
Yes the vodka and qualitystreet went down well with the anyoance at the dead GFX, mind i did use the pc for a bit then got mad at it!
Stripping the loop as we speak!
I hope this card does a bit better for you. :p:
How much? id like to know about what i could get for mine.
Hey all
I am contemplating buying this motherboard and I am wondering:
Why are people buying this board with "built-in" watercooling on the northbridge, only to replace this cooling solution?
Why not just buy the "regular"/non-SE version and mount another watercooling solution on the northbridge?
Isn't the one installed ok? (if removed, proper TIM applied and remounted )etc...
When I did my Maximus SE pre-order, the non water cooled version was not yet released.
As far as the stock cooling goes, some were finding a remount alone with a different TIM, could drop their temps by as much as 10C.
If you were buy an aftermarket NB block, you would see another 10C or more drop in NB temp under load.
As to if the stock cooling is 'good enouigh', it is really up to you and if you plan to OC the CPU much I think...
Our latest data on the Maximus SE stock cooling:
Reported stock ROG cooling temps so far:
ROG Member ----- NB volts -- NB Loaded --------------- CPU ------------------
Renegade5399 ---- 1.65v ------ 34°C ------------ Intel Core2Duo E6850 G0 @ 4GHz
bill d ------------- 1.30v ------ 34°C ----------------------------- Q6600 Stock
TheSamuri -------- 1.54v ------ 34°C ------------------------ Q6600 GO @ 3.9GHz (Reseated W/MX-2, was 48°C)
ragge86 ---------- 1.65v ------ 36°C ---------------------------- Q6600 @ 3.8GHz
NysoO ------------ 1.60v ------ 39°C ------------------------ Q6600 GO @ 3.6GHz
BulldogPO -------- 1.65v ------ 40°C -24/7 QMC crunching clocks - Q6600 @ 3.8GHz
DerekFSE ---- Green setting --- 40°C -------- Running Orthos ----- e6400 @ 3.6GHz
giorgos th. ------- 1.47v ------ 41°C --------------------------- Q6600 @ 3.60GHz
Aldy402 ---------- 1.63v ------ 43°C ----------------------- Q6600 G0 @ 3.825GHz (Was 62-65°C loaded on air)
weescott --------- 1.74v ------ 43°C --------(Q9550 444x8.5) 1.49v 62c under load
j0nnyr0773n ------ 1.54v ------ 44°C ------------------------- Q6600 GO @ 3.6GHz
Clump ------------ 1.62v ------ 46°C (After 1HR or Prime 95) ----- Q6600 @ 3.6GHz
raju -------------- 1.65v ------ 49°C (Prime95 Torture Temp) ----- Q6600 @ 3.6GHz
Note: After Raju remounted, max temp went down to 39°C
Note: NB temps over 47°C are prone to failures during longer Prime torture test runs.
Reported temps using aftermarket blocks for contrast:
Aftermarket Block Member --- NB volts -- NB Loaded ----------- CPU -----------
Nikhsub1 ---------------------- 1.52v ------- 25°C ------------- Q6600 @ 3.7GHz (NB Loaded was 41°C-52°C before mod)
To me, the info that NB temps over 47°C are prone to failures during longer Prime torture test runs is the thing to keep in mind.
I decided to give my NB more 'thermal play room', before I would hit that temp by going with an aftermarket block. If you aren't planning on much overclocking, or are already having good temps I wouldn't think it is a must...
But then again, this is the Xtreme Forum, so some of us might be prone to wander a wee bit into the overkill zone! :)
Talonman:
Thanks a lot for your answer. Clears up a few thoughts I've had :)
So basically it would be remount stock blocks with better TIM and hope that temps stay below 45-ish.
Or invest in "Third party" blocks ("expenssive" and get the guarenteed headroom for extreme overclocking. With this solution, I would need blocks for both NB and SB at least....even mosfets blocks are kinda expenssive...hmmmm
I kinda liked the stock solution since I've scratched a NB chip due to bad mounting mechanism on a NB block on my first DFI Expert.
Also had a bad experience with a NB block with plexiglass top that fired my mobo because of the plexiglass cracking:(
I do plan to take which ever CPU I end up buying (Q6000 G0 or wait for 45mm cpus?) as far as I can, but had really hoped to avoid investing in chipset blocks.
Seems silly to pay for the stock blocks just to throw them away.
Does the non SE board differ from the SE ver in any other way than water vs non water chipset cooling?
NP on the answer buddy! :up:
To my knowledge, the mobo's are the same - the ROG cooling.
Just for the record, the SB is almost a freebie with a decent sink. I opted not to water cool mine, due to it adding more resistance in my loop. I only intend on running a one loop system.
Check out the SB heat sink on page 7 of this thread to see if that might keep you happy? ;)
Putting MOSFET blocks in your loop is also restrictive. I would have been more inclined to include them into the loop, before I would the SB.
I hope my Thermalight sinks will be more than enouigh to keep them happy, and successfully relieved my loop of their cooling responsibility. (Pic's on page 8 of this thread)
If I were to do it over, I would get the non SE version I think, and set it up the exact same way I have now.
My build thread: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=160606
I am a CPU, GPU, and NB water cooling fan, if you are a 1 loop guy like me.
A very nice build you've got going there, best of luck! :)
I think I might go for an EK block on the NB after all then and a non water block on SB.
Wondering if the pre installed heatsinks on the mosfets are enough to keep them from not burning up... or if I really need to go for thirdparty ones ...which are roughly half the price of mosfet waterblocks...
Hmm decicions decicions... oh the joy (and agony) of putting together a new rig :)
Now, last dilemma s waiting +1 months for 45mm cpus or going for a Q6600 G0 now, and sell it when the new ones hit the market...
Thanks for the complement on my build. ;)
My feeling is the Stock MOSFET sink is probably good enouigh, but I have nothing to back it up...
I wouldn't loose any sleep over the Thermalightes, but they are well made.
I would go for the GO and take advantage of the price drop. The new chips might have revisions, and the price will only come down more.
I bet you could eak by on a Quad GO for a year or so... :)
I will be.
You could always sell it down the line too.
The overcloclability of the 45mm cpus might even go up with a year under their belt or so?
That will be the one I lock into, as did I lock into a mature GO.
Gonna settle for the stock mosfet ones for starters - budget is a little limited this time of the year. Come march/april I get a bonus at work and around that time I will be buying a enw gfx card anyways, so good time to mess wth build if neccessary :)
Now all I need is those bloody 45mm CPUs *whine*
My last attemt to change your mind (I Promise): ;)
http://www.anandtech.com/cpuchipsets...spx?i=3184&p=4
Speaking about the 45-nm processor QX9650:
If what we believe is true the implications could be enormous. The need for certain industries built on delivering high-performance cooling solutions to the overclocking community would be largely invalidated. What's the point in spending more money on a more effective heatsink if there's nothing to gain? With that said, we honestly believe a new direction in CPU overclocking may soon be upon us.
I know this was off topic... sorry, but good info for decission making on CPU selection of your new system.
to Talonman if i was to get those blocks, how much would it run me? i'm trying to figure how much i need for my new build that that looks like what i want. btw minus the gpu block, i'm waiting for the R680
Glad you asked. I just updated my system cost today!!
My System's Specifications
CASE:
(1) SilverStone TJ-09 Dream Machine Case - Black with window. $259.99
Display:
(1) Gateway FPD2485W HD Display, Mfg date: December 2006 - (1,920 x 1,200 normal resolution) $632.25
Baught on 2/22/07. FDP2485W
PSU
(1) Thermaltake Toughpower 1000w modular PSU. $339.99
Model: W0132 Cable Management.
Motherboard:
(1) Asus Maximus SE. $300.00
CPU:
(1) Intel C2Q Q6600 GO 2.4GHz S775 SLACR S/N: L726B397. $279.99
Ram:
(1) Corsair XMS2 4GB: 2 X 2GB Modules DDR2. $222.00
CM2X2048-6400C5DHX XMS2-6400 2048MB 800MHz 5-5-5-18 1.80V ver1.2 07384754.
Storage:
(2) Western Digital Raptor WD1500ADFD 150GB 10,000 RPM Serial ATA150 Hard Drives. Operating in RAID0 - (OS and games) $369.98
OEM Model: WDC WD1500ADFD-0.
(1) Western Digital Caviar SE16 750GB 7,200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive. (General storage) $189.99
OEM Model: WDC WD7500AAKS-0.
(1) Samsung 250GB 7,200 RPM SATA-300 port with NCQ, 300 MB/s, Hard Drives. (General storage) $65.00
OEM Model: Samsung SP2504C.
Cards:
(1) TV Tuner card harvested out of my m7690n Pavilion.
Cooling (Air):
(5) 120mm Scythe S-FLEXT Case Fan. (63.7 CFM/28 dBA) $70.00
(1) ZALMAN ZM-MFC1 Fan Controller Panel. (4 fan speed control, and 2 togle switches) $29.99
(1) Corsair ram fan CMXAF1 RTL. $19.99
(1) Masscool FD07015S1M3/4 RTL. $3.99
(1) Enzotech Forged Copper CNB-S1L. (South Bridge heat sink) $16.00
(1) Silenx Ixtrema Pro Series 40mm 14dBA 5CFM. (South Bridge sink fan) $17.00
(2) Thermalright heat sinks cooling MOSFET chip's. $50.00
Cooling (Water):
(1) WaterKegIII Xtreme. (Black with Blue CCFL lighting) $500.00
(1) D-TEK FuZion Universal CPU Waterblock - 1/2". $61.99
(1) D-TEK FuZion nozzle accelerator kit. $6.99
(1) EK-NB S-MAX Acetal North Bridge Waterblock $50.00
(1) UV reactive Pentosin G11 Coolant Additive (Blue) 4oz. $4.50
(1) Petra's Tech "PT Nuke" Concentrated Biocide 10mL. $2.50
(10') Tygon 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) R-3603 Laboratory-Grade tubing. $32.50
(10') Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PCV tubing 3/8" ID (5/8" OD). $6.50
(8) Hose Clamps. $3.00
Lighting: (All lights are controlled by the two toggle switches on the fan controller)
(2) 12in Dual Blue Cold Cathode Kit. (Sunbeam) $11.98 (This gives you 4 lights total, 2 lights per kit.)
(1) Cold Cathode Sound Activation Module. (Sunbeam) $3.99 (This is made for controlling 2 light kits.)
(3) 5' UV blue EL Wire kits. $17.97
(1) 5 UV Lazer LED kit MDLED5UV. $4.99
Cables: (Found long cables at SVC.com)
(4) 36" UV Blue 36" SATA II Cable w/ Locking Latch. $20.00
MISC Parts:
(1) Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM. $5.99
(1) Arctic Silver CMQ-22G The high-density, ceramic-based thermal compound - Retail. $9.99
(1) Arctic Silver Adhesive. $7.99
(1) Arctic Silver ACN-60ML (2-PC-SET) Thermal material Remover & Surface Purifier - OEM. $5.99
(1) Premium Heatsink Lapping Kit. $11.99
(2) MCMaster-Carr Polypropylene quick-disconnects. $51.98
(1) UV Blue slot protector. $3.00
(1) Spider Stencil. $24.99
(1) Can ClearNeon Aerosol UV Reactive Paint - Blue. $14.99
(1) 4448K26 McMASTER-CARR 5 micron water filter. $18.36
(4) 5165K39 5 micron replacement filters. $12.96
(2) 5832T123 BSPT -to- NPT Brass Thread Pipe. $7.56
Operating System:
(1) Vista Ultimate 64 Full Retail Version Unopened. (Ebay Price) $241.89 (Microsoft wanted $399.99)
Total $4,004.25 so far!
I still will be getting a sinfully fast GPU too, some day soon. My intent will be to add it into my loop. (CPU, NB, and GPU will be it on water cooling for me, and believe that is all I should have in my one loop setup.)
I will be adding in the cost of my CD/DVD player, and HD DVD player into my total system cost, after I officially install them.
They are still currently being used in my HP Pavilion m7690n.
The cost is actually going a bit higher than I expected. I figure if sombody is considering one of the dual CPU mobo's for their system, or using DDR3 memory, this price listing can serve as a warning.
We do need the funds to complete the builds we start. Even though we all might want 8 cores running on 8MEG's of DDR3 ram, the cold hard cash it would take to complete such a system is still way to high for most people. It would be for me as 5 grand feels like a finincial streign.
My system with it's megar Q6600 GO, and 4GB of ram will be close to 5 grand when fitted with a speedy GPU. I hope this pricing list will help others to decide on exactly how big they can go with their build, and the total cost involved when using these or comparable components.
I am all up for a speedy system, with a bit of a mainframe attitude, but we still have to eat and live in our homes too.
Choose wisely when you are making your initial considerations for your new dream system...
You have to insure it dosen't just stay a dream, and can actually become reality. They are much more fun that way! :up:
I will be fine completing this system, but am glad I didn't shoot any higher as my wife might well have shot me. :eek:
Seems as though smaller isn’t always better. Why didn’t they compare two of the same cpus? Prime95 result could have been from a bad core.
Anyways... maybe we are starting pushing the physical and quantum limits of traditional CPU manufacturing processes. As an end result starting to see the unexpected pheromones of electron propagating along such short interconnects and the limits of conventional nano sized transistors. If size limitations be the cause, then what the effect on manufacturing and the "new direction in CPU over clocking"? Might we start to see a 8 core or ultimently a 16 core CPU someday soon? More and more applications might see it beneficial to utilize Multi-core optimizations more effectively
I look foward to better utilization hyper threading more effectively myself, but it does make you think...
Not really sure.
DUDE! thats like......5 months at home depot for me! if i get the tubing and elbows from plumbing, and by feb (income tax time w00t), sell old comp for a G, i think i could pull that off with 2500.
Best of luck, and I do hope you can pull it off for cheep! ;)