Here it's
Printable View
Here it's
Conguratulations, Malves;-)
> BTW, what's VTT and why should I worry about it?
--
VTT is Bus Termination Voltage.
It's ideal that Vtt=Vddr/2, in my recognition.
I could check it in BIOS hardware status monitor of IC7.
See the attached images, please:
It shows Vddr=3.23V and VTT=1.37V, so VTT is lower than
Vddr/2, but it seems that small difference doesn't make
troubles. It may causes a little decrease of maximum memory
clock, I suspect.
Thanks
Hey Kyosen,
I did the Vnorth mod on my IS7. But the voltage won't go up. I have everything setup just like yours, except for the ground where I picked a screw hole. Maybe this doesn't work on the IS7.
What happens is. At 0ohm pin 6 of LM358 reads 1.4v and right FET leg reads 1.4v. When I increase resistance on the pot, pin 6 reads less voltage - up to 0v, but FET leg keeps at 1.4v constant.
HiPro looking at this diagram, does that mean that the rightmostQuote:
pad is NOT already tied to ground - that it is tied elsewhere?
If the right pad is already at ground, then all this would do is
put a trimpot in parallel with the 10k resistor :confused:
Right most pad is actuall VDD and not ground. Left most pad goes to winbond chip.
Hello Malves,
> I did the Vnorth mod on my IS7. But the voltage won't go up.
> I have everything setup just like yours, except for the ground
> where I picked a screw hole. Maybe this doesn't work on the IS7.
--
Hmm...
Can you check the resistance/connection between Pin#7 of
LM358 and left(=Gate) leg of FET?
If it is 0ohm, I have no idea.
If it is not 0ohm, Pin#6 may not be a target pin.
Find the LM358's pin which shows 0ohm with left(=Gate) leg of FET, please.
LM358 has 2 operational amplifiers. See the attached image.
If the found pin is Pin#1, the target may be Pin#2.
Anyway, I don't have IS7, so please check and try at your own risk.
Regards
If you mean the right pad of the R50 resistance,then NO........It's not grounded.......It's the Vdimm(Vddr)......and it's NOT 10Kohms but 10ohms...... ;)Quote:
Originally posted by dexx
HiPro looking at this diagram, does that mean that the rightmost
pad is NOT already tied to ground - that it is tied elsewhere?
If the right pad is already at ground, then all this would do is
put a trimpot in parallel with the 10k resistor :confused:
Hey Kyosen,
I tried pin 6 down, trimmer grounded to FET leg. I started at 1k and less resistance gave me more voltage. But I end up frying my board. Something went wrong and my guess is because when checking for the voltage on the FET leg, the ground was removed by the multimeter lead. Solder wasn't strong enough.
Well, time for an IC7. :)
Hello Malves,
> But I end up frying my board.
--
Oh, me too;-)
Now I'm playing with AI7.
AI7's circuit looks more simple than IC7.
Vnorth of AI7 may be common with Vagp, I suspect...
Thanks
how did u fry it? too high vnorth? if so how high did u go. i wanna know whats safe
Safe is not trying to do the Vnorth mod. ;)
Kyosen,
I'd like to get an AI7, but I'm getting a Prommie hopefuly by the end of month and that 45º angle socket may be a problem.
> how did u fry it? too high vnorth? if so how high did u go. i wanna know whats safe
--
Yellow wire came off by accident...Poor soldering caused it.
Method itself has no problem on IC7, I believe.
Maybe using some hot glue, after soldering on the FET leg, is a good idea. :)
I'm not to sure how much abuse the IS7 can take but the IC7 can take a ton of abuse... I did the VDimm mod and it was working for a good while... I had some DT moments while I was doing the mod and got some solder on the winbond chips right legs... Well I cleaned it off but not good enough... I lost all my temps and voltage reading fromt he MB... Then when doing some other stuff in my case I got my desolder braid out and tried to clean off the winbond chip some more... this time My board wouldn't post now... I thought I was screwed... At one point in the 5 hours I was messing with it (the end btw) My board powered up for a split second and then wouldn't power up any more... After messing with it for another hour or 2 I figured I fried something... I had given my Mem like 3.38volts at one time while I was messing with it... So I was all set on getting me a AI7 to replace my IC7....
A few days later I said to myself.. Hell it's already broke so lets really abuse this thing and see what happens... I couldn't find or smell anything that had fried anywhere on the board... I took my scribe out and scraped the hell out of the winbond chip.... Ended up even exposeing a lot of copper traces in the process... I resoldered it all back up and low and behold.... It POSTS again... Actually had some temps and voltages for a bit but it was all really wacky like... My CPU was reading like 1.35 when I had set it at 1.675.... They disappeard all together again after tring to clean some more solder away from the winbond chip...
Now I have my system stable at 288 FSB... My 2.4C D1 will not go anyhigher... I'm giving my RAM 3.15v as measured on the left mosefet leg... The only quircky thing now is that it won't post on inital boot.... I have to either power off and on again or reset it to get it to post... Also if I change anything in the BIOS I have to reset it to POST.... I'm just amazed at how much punishment I've given this thing and that it's working again... Thought I would share my results... Oh and My memory is at 2-2-2-5 DDR460... Now I can wait for PIC-Express and DDR2 before I get another board.... So if you think your board is toast give it hell.... Maybe you can raze it from the dead....
Yup my semi dead ic7 i decided to use for VDD/VTT/Vnorth mods. And low and behold it's running better that 99% of them out there. I can't believe this old arse mobo kicks so much arse. Luck sometimes does help. :D
I am a nOOb when it comes to voltmodding & want to vDimm mod my IC&-G mobo.
I went to my loacal electronics engineer & gave him the blueprints of hipro5's method of how to mod the IC7-G with all relevent pics of the mod.
The thing is, my soldering guy has done the mod a little different from the methods described in this forum.
Instead of solering the 10 Ohm fixed resistor to both of the "R50" pads, he's actually solder only one of the fied resistors to the "R50"pad closest to the "Winbond Chip" & the other wire to left leg of the mosfet closest to the "R50" closest to the "Mosfet".
I've borrowed "johnrr6's" schem2 (hipro5 method 2) & edited it to show what my electronic tech guy has done.
I haven't fired my board up yet as I would like to ask one of the senior members if the way I described is possible. Too afraid that I might blow up my mobo if I turn my PC on & my method is wrong.
hipro5, I have been following your method (that's how I wanted it done in the first place) but my tech guy says that the "R50" pad closest to the "Mosfet" actually goes from the left leg of the "Mosfet" goes to the "R50" pad closest to it so it makes no difference whether I solder onto the "R50" pad closest to the ?Mosfet" or if I solder directly onto the left leg of the "Mosfet".
Could one of my peers please clarify this for me? I'm kinda shaky as my mod did not turn out like how hipro5 described.
Cheers:toast:
I think he has just saved himself some trouble and moving the end of the 10k resistor from the end of R50 too the mosfet for ease of soldering.
You should be able to check this with a multimeter if your unsure, set it to continuity beep and check that there is a direct connection between the end of R50 and the mosfet pin he has soldered too.
jeez fried my ic7 as well with vnorth mod...Quote:
Originally posted by kyosen
Hello Malves,
> But I end up frying my board.
--
Oh, me too;-)
Now I'm playing with AI7.
AI7's circuit looks more simple than IC7.
Vnorth of AI7 may be common with Vagp, I suspect...
Thanks
everything was fine but i suspect altering vnorth 'on the fly' caused my mobo to crack...
Holst,
The mod works perfectly. When set to 2.8 I get 3.24 (PSU max). In a way, it seems simpler to do it the way I posted up b4.
Got my 9800pro & IC7-G modded, now for the Vapo to come back in action. hehehe
Thanks for clarifying it for me.
edit:
I noticed that after I vmodded my 9800pro, if I set the V-AGP to any higher than 1.55, I get these artifacts when my PC posts. A reboot fixes it but it's kinda annoying. I'm only using one of those Arctic Cooling VGA Silencers til I have time to set my WC again.
My next mission? VTT mod. My IC7-G behaves very much like my old Max3. 3.1v vDimm, 1.35 VTT.
Anyways, if it wasn't for you guys at XS, I woulda went out & wasted money on another Max3 & hope that I'd get 3.1 vDimm.
Many Thanks To The XS Guys:toast:
Hmm one question !
Why does VAGP increase in BIOS increases overclock capabilities on my IC7 ??
I don't notice any Vnorth change by doing that (increasing AGP from BIOS) !
Yup, keeping VTT at 50% or Vddr is a must on certain boards. Its a must on IC7 too for high RAM clocks. Using only Vddr mod at 3.3V on IC7 my system would reboot and give bluescreens even at 240 1:1. With the Vtt mod its SuperPi 1M stable at 255 1:1 2-2-2-6 now :)Quote:
It shows Vddr=3.23V and VTT=1.37V, so VTT is lower than
Vddr/2, but it seems that small difference doesn't make
troubles. It may causes a little decrease of maximum memory
clock, I suspect.
Also on Gigabyte K8N (uses winbond voltcontroller too) the Vtt (Vbt) mod is required for running 3DMark2001.
It would pass superpi, 3dmark03 and pifast at 260+ 1:1 (w/ 3.5V Vddr) without the Vbt mod but 3DMark2001 would always quit to desktop!? Funny board eh? :D
Vddr and Vbt voltmods enabled (@Vddr 3.52V/Vbt@1.76) it can pass 3DMark2001 at 327FSB:268MEM 2-2-2-6
if i do the mod below will i have to do another mod for vtt to be 1/2 of vdimm or should it be stable as is?
http://www.frontpage2000.family-net....is/Schem1a.jpg
Vdimm is gonna be stable and high...Quote:
Originally posted by shortbus
if i do the mod below will i have to do another mod for vtt to be 1/2 of vdimm or should it be stable as is?
http://www.frontpage2000.family-net....is/Schem1a.jpg
Vtt will not be altered by doing this
This pic shows my IC7(#2) Vddr & Vtt(Vbt) mods. It says all;)
Very nice 'all in one' IC7 Vmem guide :)
I've been pushing my HyperX today again on IC7 and can run Superpi 1M at 257.1MHz 2-2-2-6. This is with Vddr@3.52V/Vtt@1.76V/Vagp@1.79V/PSU 3.3V@3.6V.
I removed the stock NB cooler and installed bigger heatsink with delta fan on it. Also removed all the original heattransfer stuff and replaced it with normal white paste. Open-window mod gave some 10C ambient temps so the NB was rather cool.
The same RAM has done 258-259 on P4C800 which had only Vdimm mod at 3.46V.
Any ideas on how to make the IC7 go even higher? :)
Vnorth mod? Something else?
Where is hipro with his special mods huh? :D
If you did the vagp mod you should also achieve higher vnorth voltage as well...Quote:
Originally posted by macci
Very nice 'all in one' IC7 Vmem guide :)
I've been pushing my HyperX today again on IC7 and can run Superpi 1M at 257.1MHz 2-2-2-6. This is with Vddr@3.52V/Vtt@1.76V/Vagp@1.79V/PSU 3.3V@3.6V.
I removed the stock NB cooler and installed bigger heatsink with delta fan on it. Also removed all the original heattransfer stuff and replaced it with normal white paste. Open-window mod gave some 10C ambient temps so the NB was rather cool.
The same RAM has done 258-259 on P4C800 which had only Vdimm mod at 3.46V.
Any ideas on how to make the IC7 go even higher? :)
Vnorth mod? Something else?
Where is hipro with his special mods huh? :D
Hmm didn't measure the Vnorth while I had the Vagp at 1.8V.
Anyways on P4C800 the same ram is doing 260.5MHz 1:1 2-2-2-5 TURBO superpi 1M stable. Vddr at 3.48V, Vagp at 1.795V and Vnorth at 1.59V (so asus is giving higher Vnorth by default).
Vagp at 1.55V it wont even do 253 on ASUS.
Going to vmod ASUS Vagp/Vnorth and IC7 Vnorth now.
In your pic, you say that you cut the the trace off something (I can find it but haen't had a proper look for it on my board & then did the resistor/VR mod.Quote:
Originally posted by kyosen
This pic shows my IC7(#2) Vddr & Vtt(Vbt) mods. It says all;)
Could you be a bit clearer for me so i can get my tech guy to do the VTT mod for me?
He's very good with electronics, being an electronic engineer & all. If I brought him the pic you posted, do you think he'd be able to figure it out?
Also, what is need? I don't seem to see a fixed resistor in your pic, is it needed?
I think it would be easier cutting the trace the way you done it. Just not sire on the other specs.
So far I have my IC7 mem modded, 9800pro Vgpu/Vddr modded, doing the 3.3v, 5v, 12v mod for my TP 550w PSU.
I'm getting meself some BH-5's so I'd definitely need the VTT mod.
This "sickness" is getting outta control!! Got a Vapo Classic that I'm trying to find a way to mod it for my 9800pro...
Best thing I've done since I start OCing/modding? XS forums!! :toast:
Hey macci,Quote:
Originally posted by macci
Hmm didn't measure the Vnorth while I had the Vagp at 1.8V.
Anyways on P4C800 the same ram is doing 260.5MHz 1:1 2-2-2-5 TURBO superpi 1M stable. Vddr at 3.48V, Vagp at 1.795V and Vnorth at 1.59V (so asus is giving higher Vnorth by default).
Vagp at 1.55V it wont even do 253 on ASUS.
Going to vmod ASUS Vagp/Vnorth and IC7 Vnorth now.
Where do I measure Vagp and Vnorth on the P4C800? Also, is there any mod for Vnorth on it?
BTW, I did the droop mod on my asus following your pic, and the vcore is slowly fluctuating +-1% idle or load. Used a 100K trimmer set @ 34k. Is 1% variation ok or I've done it incorrectly?
1% fluctuation sounds normal after the vdroop mod.
You can measure the Vagp from the mosfet just below AGP slot (mosfet is next to LM324 chip).
Vnorth voltage from the other side of the AGP slot (there is another LM324 chip near there). You can take the reading from the empty mosfet solderpad for instance.
The lm324 chips are more than likely used in the Vagp and Vnorth mod. I'll take a closer look at it prolly tomorrow.
But now its Xmas! :toast:
Hello macci, I'm very encouraged by your comment.
Many thanks!!!
Hello Minnyboy,
> Could you be a bit clearer for me so i can get my tech guy
> to do the VTT mod for me?
--
So I attached the pic of my IC7(#1, dead;-).
# Condenser(EC1) had been removed for PCB research.
I believe this pic and previous one are enough for mod by
my method.
> I don't seem to see a fixed resistor in your pic, is it needed?
--
No, needless. The POT works fine by this connection!
Regards
Damn Macci you're like so close to beating my 258 cas 2-2-2-5 record on my ic7:eek:
Thanks kyosen,
I'm taking my board to get this VTT mod done soon as Christmas/New Year period is over.
BTW, Merry Christmas & A Happy New Year To All
edit:
Is the IC7-G/Max3 Vmem mods the same?
Looks very similar to me.
.read below
Hey CatchQuote:
Originally posted by CATCH22ATPLAY
Kyosen Vagp mod does not require cutting traces. Use the Lm358 chip left of southbridge chip.
Kyosen i'm working on a better VTT mod. I have it complete already and pics. Just gotta put everything back together and test it. I didn't cut the trace on the front of the mobo. I cut the trace on the back side. Then soldered a VR from left side MC50 to bottom leg of mosfet located in upper right corner of mobo. A bit easier than the old way of doing it. A finished pic of VTT mod. The green wires only.
http://pages.prodigy.net/catch22atplay/vttmod6.jpg
Have you got some more info/pics on the VAGP mod ? I know I need that to push my mobo to higher FSB...
thanks catch :toast:
Nope. But i'll look into it. I think i'm gonna play with my p4c800 for a few days though. I can't seem to get above 318FSB on this IC7. Benching 3dmark at 310 was max. The IC7 either needs the Vagp mod or if you've noticed the caps and mosfets will burn your fingers. Maybe they are maxxed out. Only errors i get are agp vid card errors and not cpu or mem when i try to bench above 310fsb. I had to disable fastwrites i run in agpx4 for 318FSB btw. That was lame lemme tell you. If i got a pci vid card i may put it in and really test if the agp was limiting max FSB. But for now it's Anus time. :D
Hey Catch,Quote:
But for now it's Asus time.
Any thoughts on what you're planning in doing on the P4C800?
Oh i'll just volt mod the F out of it like i do all my mobos. Thing is i've tried my p4c800 and hated it and my albatrons and MSI's etc etc. None come close to my ic7 and ic7max3 O/C's. But i'm selling or actually sold this p4c800 and i'm gonna mail it saturday. I just wanna spend a little quality time with it. It's only got like 8 hours use so far. I gotta try it at least once more.
I just wanna ask guys with XMS3500 on whether the VTT mod will help out with getting higher speeds from my XMS3500 BH-5's?
Just wanted to know if it's worth it doing the VTT mod.
Currently maxing out at DDR466 (2-5-2-2 @ 3.2v) but my VTT is somewhere in the 1.2v range.
Right now I'm at the perfect 5/4 for my 2.6c that tops out at 284fsb.
So, anyone with XMS3500 BH-5's or any BH-5's that gained from doing the VTT mod as well?
Any comments anyone?
I'll have a search through this thread but would also like to hear from BH-5 owner's & their gains from doing the VTT mods.
Cheers,
Not XMS, but I gained quite a bit. I was unable to get anything stable over 220 because I needed more than 2.8v. I couldn't even boot 2.9v, but anything higher would boot, just not run stable. Currently running 233 w/3.0v at 2-2-2-5, GAT = A-A-A-A-A. And yes, BH-5 does burn in, 233 was popping an occasional memtest86 error 2 weeks ago. Now I am getting real close (1 error/5loops) to getting same timings but GAT = T-A-A-A-A. No errors at all with A-A-A-A-A. Right now I'm waiting on some better cooling for the cpu, so I haven't been able to push the memory any harder....but I will.:DQuote:
Originally posted by Minnyboy
I just wanna ask guys with XMS3500 on whether the VTT mod will help out with getting higher speeds from my XMS3500 BH-5's?
Just wanted to know if it's worth it doing the VTT mod.
Currently maxing out at DDR466 (2-5-2-2 @ 3.2v) but my VTT is somewhere in the 1.2v range.
Right now I'm at the perfect 5/4 for my 2.6c that tops out at 284fsb.
So, anyone with XMS3500 BH-5's or any BH-5's that gained from doing the VTT mod as well?
Any comments anyone?
I'll have a search through this thread but would also like to hear from BH-5 owner's & their gains from doing the VTT mods.
Cheers,
I'm getting errors at 233fsb @2-5-2-2/3.2v (1.4VTT) doing these loops:
Memtest86 v3.0
test 5 = 100 loops=pass
test 6 = 100 loops= errors pop up after 15 of so passes
test 3 = 50 loops= haven't tried yet cos of errors on test 6.
My mobo is the IC7-G with Vdimm/Vmem mod. I had a look in the bios & at 3.2v my VTT is 1.4v.
I guess I'll find out whether the VTT mod does help my ram or not a bit later this week.
Haven't tried GAT out yet, have got the last 2 options disabled. Will give it a shot later. Got this 12cm Sunon fan blowing like a vacuum cleaner that disturbs everything near it, TV & all.hehehehehe
Not gonna do the Vagp mod as I don't see the need as of yet. CPU is maxing out B4 mobo is.
change your timings to 2-3-2-6 and it should be ok.
im on my way to radio shack to pick up a 500 ohm pot and a multimeter.
just wondering, once i get it all set up where do i measure the resistance for the vdimm mod, and how much should it be.
Could one of you guys post a parts list and maybe an updated VTT mod? im planning on going by radio shack tommorow to get teh stuff
what do i use for ground and what do i set the 1k pot to using hipros method?
you can just run the ground to like a screwhole or somethingQuote:
Originally posted by shortbus
what do i use for ground and what do i set the 1k pot to using hipros method?
shortbus,
If I remember correctly, I set my 1K Ohm VR to 290 Ohms & then got my friend to solder it on.
My friend modifed hipro5's method a bit (easier for him to do the soldering but you should be able to find the modified version somewhere in this thread.
My friend soldered onto the pad closest to the Winbond chip & the other leg onto the mosfet leg clostest to the other R50 pad but you might wanna look back a couple of pages if you choose my "altered method".
I'm using a fan header for ground & am thinking of doing the same for the VTT mod if it apples to there as well. Got a rheobus to control the fans so the mobo fan headers are there for looks.
As for running my ram at 2-3-2-6, I didn't want to do that since I won't be running 1/1. Maybe later on with a P4 3.2 or so. But right now I'm trying to see if the VTT mod will help me out in gaining some more Mhz at 2-5-2-2.
how the hell do I know what ohmage I am setting the trimpot to? There's no markings. Do i use a multimeter?
AyeQuote:
Originally posted by computerpro3
how the hell do I know what ohmage I am setting the trimpot to? There's no markings. Do i use a multimeter?
A what?
You should have studied in Scotland :DQuote:
Originally posted by CATCH22ATPLAY
A what?
Means yes of course
Hehe i know. I was just trying to be funny :)
for the VTT mod where can i put my multimeter set to ohms to know that the trace is already cut or not?
Wish I was in So Cal right now :/Quote:
Originally posted by CATCH22ATPLAY
Hehe i know. I was just trying to be funny :)
Did the VDimm mod some days ago, works perfect. But what´s the highest voltage i should use for benching, i don´t want to fry my mem ;)
BH5 ? 3.5V is OK :DQuote:
Originally posted by cold_ice
Did the VDimm mod some days ago, works perfect. But what voltage should i use for benching, i don´t want to fry my mem ;)
Yes Twinmos Ram with B5-Chips
They do 240 2/2/2/5 @ 3,15v :)
Put your leads from upper right mosfets lower leg to left pad of MC50. Should read 500k ohms to 3 meg ohms. You can scratch that trace a bit to make doubly sure. I just showed cutting it so everyone could understand. I usually end up scraping a 1/16" gap just to be safe.Quote:
Originally posted by enzoR
for the VTT mod where can i put my multimeter set to ohms to know that the trace is already cut or not?
Just did the VTT modQuote:
Originally posted by CATCH22ATPLAY
Put your leads from upper right mosfets lower leg to left pad of MC50. Should read 500k ohms to 3 meg ohms. You can scratch that trace a bit to make doubly sure. I just showed cutting it so everyone could understand. I usually end up scraping a 1/16" gap just to be safe.
With my ultra precise meter i had 2ohms before and 13Meg ohms after track cutting
VTT is synchronized with my modded VDD now.
BTW don't look into the BIOS reading... use the mosfet:toast:
Fellas,
I'm gonna need to do this mod, but on the IS7. I can have the original 0ohm res. replaced by another SMD res. of my choice, done by a pro w/ pro tools. Question: what value res. would I need to make the 2.5V bios-setting 2.8V (+0.3V)? This way the board would be maxed at 2.8V+0.3=3.1V. After the mod is done, I'll edit the values mentioned in the bios to mirror the new vdimm volts (ranging from 2.8...3.1V), and make the lowest (2.8V) default.
In fact, I really wanna be able to give it more then 3.1V at max, but it's the minimal vdimm that bothers me with a fixed resistor. 2.8V seems to me like a save lowest value every RAM should be able to handle, I don't wanna up it much more.
Oh, and as we're talking IS7 instead of IC7 here, I'll hand you guys a close-up of the vdimm section of my board. The R50 them IC7's seem to have is not present on my board, but the component layout seems the same. Is it R567 on my board? Could anyone plz circle the res. I need to replace and mail it to me? (PM)
Kinda hard to do without me ohming it out. I'd hate to say it's Rxxx and fry your stuff. I say just use a needle probe for your multimeter. Then check the volts on them resistors. Look for the one that matches your VDD volts and more than likely that's the one. For VTT do the same. You can aplly VDD and VTT mod almost the exact same as we do for the IC7 and max3. Don't fry anything checking volts and good luck dude.
Catch22atplay,
I might as well try to sell this IS7 and get an AI7 instead. Pretty much exactly the same board, but with high Vdimm's. Won't cost me much and there's no risks involved. Then again, this IS7 is good for at least 300FSB stable (didn't dare go higher on air), and there's no way to tell if the replacement AI7 would be as good.
I wonder if the Albatron 875 mobo will be decent. I wonder when it'll hit the shelves. I had an IS7 and got rid of it. 865 chipset was just too slow for me. But that AI7 looks kinda sweet.
I wonder too what's taking Albatron so long... And you're right about the i865. At stock speeds it's marvelous (w/ PAT hack), but beyond 250FSB many wish they'd bought a decent 875. Problem is, if I go 875 now I'm pretty much stuck with an IC7-Max3 or P4C800, and both would need at least a Vdimm mod. The AI7 can do 3.2 without any Vmods. Then there's the PAT issue the AI7 looses at >250FSB. Not that much of a problem to me, as it's pretty much mandatory to use async (read: PAT-less) mem anyway with a well-cooled 2.4C ;)
umm.... Vdimm mod aint that bad. to go over 3.2 you will also need one. besides, it makes things much more fun.
True, but...
I imagine I could have a lot more fun with a board able to do 3.2V at stock then with one that's limited at only 2.8V. Kind of a tough choice, 'cause if I do need more then 3.2V in the future I'd be better off with an Asus (way easier Vdimm mod).
How big are the odds I'm gonna need more then 3.2V anyway? A Vmod on AI7 wouldn't do that much good, just 3.3 at max. (Unless the PSU is also being fiddled with)
I've tried 3 865 chipset mobos. @ of them were Albatrons. The Albatrons were supposed to do 300fsb+ easily. The only mobos be it 865 or 875 chipset that i could get to 300fsb+ was 2 Abit IC7's and a IC7max3. All them of them stock right out of the box. I don't quite understand the PATless above 250 you're talking about. Unless you were referring to just the 865 chipset mobos. I have no problem using pat above 250 on my IC7's. Have to volt mod em for that though. And yes there is a limit somewhere but it like 295 or so. :)
Catch22atplay:
"...I don't quite understand the PATless above 250 you're talking about. Unless you were referring to just the 865 chipset mobos."
I was: "Then there's the PAT issue the AI7 looses at >250FSB."
I've had three 875 boards, none of them would do 300FSB out the box. First one that did was this IS7 I have now.
My IS7 only does 285fsb out of the box, but I would like to do a vnorth mod. On a cold start my board likes to turn off the first few times and it's extremely annoying, hopefully more vnorth would help that.
Quote:
Originally posted by Miles_Teg
Fellas,
I'm gonna need to do this mod, but on the IS7. I can have the original 0ohm res. replaced by another SMD res. of my choice, done by a pro w/ pro tools. Question: what value res. would I need to make the 2.5V bios-setting 2.8V (+0.3V)? This way the board would be maxed at 2.8V+0.3=3.1V. After the mod is done, I'll edit the values mentioned in the bios to mirror the new vdimm volts (ranging from 2.8...3.1V), and make the lowest (2.8V) default.
In fact, I really wanna be able to give it more then 3.1V at max, but it's the minimal vdimm that bothers me with a fixed resistor. 2.8V seems to me like a save lowest value every RAM should be able to handle, I don't wanna up it much more.
Oh, and as we're talking IS7 instead of IC7 here, I'll hand you guys a close-up of the vdimm section of my board. The R50 them IC7's seem to have is not present on my board, but the component layout seems the same. Is it R567 on my board? Could anyone plz circle the res. I need to replace and mail it to me? (PM)
http://www.malvescorner.com/is7.htm
Just saw this
Hi guys
Which of these is better for vdimm?
first
second
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...?postid=281774
or thirth
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...?postid=301736
Thks
I prefer the third one
second. lets me go all the way up to 3.25 on a 3.3rail at 3.32v. its because the resistance is changed to the proper ratio every time instead of it being fixed at 10 ohm, and witht he second, no need for resistor!! much simpler
Could you please edit your post and delete the link to the picture on my site.Quote:
Originally posted by EnZiMa
Hi guys
Which of these is better for vdimm?
Thks
Link to the page, not the pic. Thank you.
Malves on your mod why are you using all three legs of the potentio meter?
Isnt it possible to simply solder a 200 ohm vr to the place where one removed the R50 resistor?
So pin 1 to the left pad and pin2 ( ground ) to the right pad ?
basically I want to miss out soldering on the MC147 resistor !
Im using an is7-e but im not sure which resistor is the r50 resistor. Could help me figure out which one it is?
Check malves' site.
http://malvescorner.com/is7.htm
Remove R567. :)
I did the mod and its working great! Thanks a lot!:toast:
Well the vr broke and and was electricity was flowing through it without any resistance. While I was trying to hook up a different vr i hit the 10 ohm resistor and it came off along with the soldering points. There is a small wire coming out of one end now and only a little metal point out of the other. Are there any other places i can solder the points together at. I heard that one end leads to pin 4. Does the other end lead to one of the mosfets?
One of the pads should be ground. The other should be a leg of the winbond chip. Ohm out which one is ground, and go from there.
Are you sure one side is to ground? If so then what is the point of using two resisitors since each of them hook into ground.
I'm not following you. You removed R567, put the vr in place of the 2 sides of R567?
Which way did you do the mod? I know there are a few methods out there.
I used hipro5's method with the 10 ohm resistor in where the old resitor used to be and a vr coming off of the 10 ohm resistor to ground.
I was think i could connect it to the mosfet but the mosfets and pin 4 on my mother board but the mosfets are a little bit different on my board then on the ic7 so im not sure which mosfet its connected to. I cant get another picture of it becuase my digital cam cant pick up that close. Malves can you take a look at it maybe.
btw heres hipro's method http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...806#post212806
I managed to unsolder R50 for the IC7 dram volt mod, upon attemp to solder on a 390 ohm resistor in its place I angled the resistor next to R50(the one on it right), upon trying to rectify it's position I knocked it off and its lost : (
Again it is the resistor straight up from the winbond chip and to the right of R50.
I hope I didn't fubar it, I used a wick to soak up the soulder on both resistor joint pads to clean up the mess.
No more 3am attempts at soldering when sick.
Anyone knowledgable on how to rectify this, please let me know what I can do, if I knew the ohmage of the lost resistor I could solder it back on after a trip to radioshack or fry's.
"Any idea what ohm resistor it is, so I can replace it ASAP?"
R50 is a 0 ohms resistor. just bridge the 2 pads with solder or something
The resistor next to R50 isn't 0 ohm though, and thats what I lost. I need to know the ohmage on it so I can replace it. In Hipro's pic it is the one right below R50:
http://www.pctech.gr/hipro5/photos/A...7/Modds/06.jpg
When you all talk about the contact pad, what exactly are you referring to, is it just the excess solder on the contact point?
I am hoping someones' expertise can save me here, I don't want to go buy another IC7.
MC64 is the resistor below R50. This is what is removed on the max3 for vmem mod. If the circuitry is the same which I think it is, as long as something is in place between the left side of r50 or mc64 and ground it should be fine. Left side of R50 or MC64 should go to the same pin on the windbond chip.
Did you use the wick on the solder pads where the resistors were?
If you look at the pic in my above post, its the spot right below the R50, or directly south of it. In the pic it has part of the yellow box drawn in over it.
Yah I did use the wick to pick up the solder, the solder had melted and was bridging the positive and ground lead on each spot. I could melt a tiny bit of solder on each lead head to replace the original pad?
I would do this before you try to go any further. Right sides should ohm out to any ground on the board. Left sides should ohm out to one the the legs of the winbond chip. I think 3 or 4, if left side doesn't ohm out to any leg of the windbond chip you will have to solder directly to one of the legs of the winbond chip to get the vmem back.Quote:
Originally posted by anomaly2200
I could melt a tiny bit of solder on each lead head to replace the original pad?
I'll probably start a new thread but I"ll tag along here also. I used MadCat1968s mod guide from the Abit forums to construct this circuit: http://home.columbus.rr.com/jsemler/...tion_Guide.htm
Then, I installed it like this (sort of): http://home.columbus.rr.com/jsemler/...tion_Guide.htm
To make a long story short, during testing, I arced a component in the circuit and got a short. The worst of the damage is that the left solder pad for the VBT Sense attachment point at MC50 (the side of MC50 closest to the Winbond chip) came off. I can see the TINY remnants of 2 portions of trace but I don't think it is enough to solder to.
So, can anyone tell me an alternate point at which to solder the VBT Sense lead to the left (non-ground) side of MC50 as needed for this mod? I will keep scouring this thread and others but I cannot see the answer yet. Of course, that may be due to all the smoke in the air.
Thanks in advance. smokemike (the artist formerly known as specmike)
Top pad or left pad closest to windbond chip, ohms out to the 7th leg of the winbond chip bottom side closest to the MC50. I can't find any where else that that pad ohms out to.Quote:
Originally posted by specmike
I'll probably start a new thread but I"ll tag along here also. I used MadCat1968s mod guide from the Abit forums to construct this circuit: http://home.columbus.rr.com/jsemler/...tion_Guide.htm
Then, I installed it like this (sort of): http://home.columbus.rr.com/jsemler/...tion_Guide.htm
To make a long story short, during testing, I arced a component in the circuit and got a short. The worst of the damage is that the left solder pad for the VBT Sense attachment point at MC50 (the side of MC50 closest to the Winbond chip) came off. I can see the TINY remnants of 2 portions of trace but I don't think it is enough to solder to.
So, can anyone tell me an alternate point at which to solder the VBT Sense lead to the left (non-ground) side of MC50 as needed for this mod? I will keep scouring this thread and others but I cannot see the answer yet. Of course, that may be due to all the smoke in the air.
Thanks in advance. smokemike (the artist formerly known as specmike)
So what type of component is the MC64, your saying I can just bridge the gap between the ground and positive lead on it? Remember I lost the MC64 peice, there isnt anything there now.Quote:
Originally posted by oc-rookie
MC64 is the resistor below R50. This is what is removed on the max3 for vmem mod. If the circuitry is the same which I think it is, as long as something is in place between the left side of r50 or mc64 and ground it should be fine. Left side of R50 or MC64 should go to the same pin on the windbond chip.
Did you use the wick on the solder pads where the resistors were?
For a secondary question, why do I need to ground to the winbond chip if I recondstruct the pads under the R50 and MC64 with a bit of solder?
Thanks for all the help so far.
MC64 is a cap not a resistor. AFAIK, Abit started removing those caps on the MAX3 boards, to help stabilize vdimm - but don't know if this true.
I don't think it would be a problem not having that cap in place.
Aye I fixed it, the MC64 removal is actaully a stablization for the vdimm, unfortunatley the vtt voltage is still way undervolted past 2.8 volts. I am looking to do Madcat's Mod.
Any chance you can make the circuit , Madcat1968 just curious what you would charge for it, I'm a decent solder, but your expertise in making it amounts to alot. Let me know bud.
I just got my original IS7 that i did a messed up mod "killed the Pads" on and had to solder to the winbond "leg 4" on page 2 of this guide.
One testing with my good BH-5's the Dam thing give's me better mem scores than my IC7 just testing on Air. Out with the IC7.
This was my first and best 865/875 board. All the new 865's Pat or Gat is just not there anymore. Intel must've figured a way to finally diable.
I've had 2 max3's and i'll take a plain jane, IS7 or IC7 "vmodded" over a Max 3 anyday.
I got a 2.4 prescott to play with about 15 mintutes ago FEDEX.