It's only one core too, with the time ran covered up.. and that's not load temp, it's idleQuote:
Originally Posted by AMD Fanatic
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It's only one core too, with the time ran covered up.. and that's not load temp, it's idleQuote:
Originally Posted by AMD Fanatic
10C in the room ( it was late november ) , stock cooling ( the one with heat-pipes ) plus Vantec Tornado on top . :)Quote:
Originally Posted by AMD Fanatic
Here's another one : little brother 165 :D
http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?image=38890nn9.jpg
I just ran this tonight, not realy pushing it though. The stepping is CCBBE 0610DPMW bought late last winter.
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/8...tledgj1.th.jpg
nice clocks Repoman :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Repoman
Getting my LCB9E very soon - its in the mail
Out of interest, what sort of burning in / running does everyone run before starting bumping those clocks? And is it with burning in that get people up to the 3GHz range @ stock volts, or is it just the gradual increase? (individual stepping variances notwithstanding)
I'm just not too sure about the burning in theory (or myth ;)), and I was really wondering whether it is common practice to let a chip run in for a while (i.e. 6-12 hours Orthos or similar) at stock before starting to bump things up.
My current Opty 165 CCBWE 0551 UPMW is a... well... CCBWE really (2.5G @ 1.4v; 2.6G @ 1.5) and I want to give this next one the best chance possible.
cheers, looking forward to this :D
Wigs
Thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by WigSgiW
Before taking the IHS off I booted up and set 2.9 @ 1.35, it failed Prime after seeing temps of 65 and 75C on each core. After that I took the IHS off and ran Prime95 at an immediate 2.95GHz @ 1.35. Passed for 10 minutes so set 3.05, failed quickly so down to 3.03, failed again after 10 minutes so down to 3.0 :D
OCing has become a very quick thing for me, instead of ramping up to the max clocks I go over max stable speeds and move down. It's easier to tell that way what the max will be because you can look at Prime failure times and make an educated guess
dont bother with burning in myself, never really believed it exists. more that time spent with hardware improves the skills employed in oc..
i choose the speed i want, do everything i can to get it, if that fails drop down untill it works.
Thanks for the replies all.
I thought that might be the case; with the experience I have had with overclocking the 3700, a really crappy 4400 and the moderately crappy 165, all on the same motherboard, I think I should be pretty good to go as soon as I slap the new 165 in there.
Nice to see that patience isn't always necessary - I would hate to have to (for max overclocks sake) slowly move up from 200 FSB in 10 increments to 334 FSB - it would drive me bonkers!
I will keep everyone updated when the chip arrives :D
The only "burn-in" (not really) time I can see being worthwhile it to run the chip 16 hours a day - and off at night - for a week at a moderate OC (but still on stock volts) just to get the TIM cured before the real OC'ing starts. Other than that I just can't see any good reason to waste time before hitting it ...
Just got a LCB9E 0651RPMW. I saw another one that was a week 13, doing 2.86 @1.19v. Think that mine could do the same thing with a DFI SLI-DR Expert, naked, under H20?
The LCB9E's from week 50/06 --> seem to be very good. I wouldn't expect it to do as well as my 0613, though.Quote:
Originally Posted by ColonelCain
3g with quite low voltage is my guess, but I never bought a LCB9E (I guess i have to someday:D ) so there are other guys who know alot more about these steppings than I do.
LOL, that's mostly how I do it to... with the boards I'm familiar with though :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by Repoman
Second that, tried that sh*IT with a faulty FX60, and burning in..... or "burning in" simply didn't do the trick! Just gave me a headache :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by QuietIce
I usually start with 3g @ stock, and if that doesn't work, up the voltage to 1.45. And then to 1.55 if necessary.
But my first chip I did it the "boring" way, 50mhz at the time - dual prime 8h every night. Since that chip did 2.9 @ stock voltage it took a while lol.
I got a new Opty from RMA today, a bit better than the last one (0615 MPMW @ 2583 mhZ with 1,4 volts) and now I have a 0615 DPMW :)
You tested it yet?Quote:
Originally Posted by david901101
It's running at 2661 mhZ with 1,35 v for now, since my motherboard doesn't like fsb speeds over 295 mhZ.Quote:
Originally Posted by LIKMARK
Update: Running at 2673 mhZ now with 1.31 v.
Cool n Quiet with CrystalCPUID is awesome
Currently doing a 1160MHz @ 0.95v with 31C load as my mininum setting, 2320MHz @ 1.15v for my medium setting, and 2900MHz @ 1.3v for the 'max' setting :) The program automatically switches between these depending on CPU load. 1160MHz is perfectly responsive for idle Windows browsing and using Firefox.
I might even switch it up to 1200MHz, 2400MHz, and 3000MHz settings (switch HTT from 290 to 300). This way I wouldn't feel bad about letting it run at 3Ghz, heating up my room and wasting power because it would be at 300x4 most of the time :)
PS the key to getting it to work is using the "Auto" CPU VID setting in the BIOS.. then if you have a DFI board you can just use the VID Startup value to actually control the initial voltage applied, until CrystalCPUID takes over. YOu can also still use the Vcore special % thing, it's always added to the VID that CrystalCPUID sets
ho so good
Interesting. On the ASUS A8N32 (don't know about the others) enabling CnQ locks out the VID but uses the previous setting for startup. I used it for about 2 months on my sig rig (running @ 233x12) and everything worked fine. It would shift between 12x, 9x, and 6x as needed. After 2 months I started crunching SETI so I didn't have a need for it anymore. I did change to 255x11 after that to bump the RAM a little ...
I Use CPU Rightmark V1.5
set to max fid 12, max vid 1.4, mins 5/1.1 works a charm. uses pretty much every multi available depending on load.
then again, unlike most boards, the abit ax8 seems to set v-core by setting vid within normal cpu settings then adding additional voltage on top, so most apps/utilities report 1.4v all the time, rather than the real volts. when multi/vid are dropped, the extra on top is maintained!
Alrighty, I received the chip, it is a LCB9E 0704 TPMW.
Not the best ones of the LCB9E stepping, however it is interesting how I faired.
I am now up to 2700MHz (300 x 9), with my ram at 225MHz DDR 2-3-3-5; 2.9v. The CPU is definitely stable, as can be seen in the below screenshot, with Orthos running at top priority for 11 hours 53 minutes. Voltage = 1.35v - 1.40v fluctuating (1.35 in bios, with around a 0.05 vdroop on this Epox board - known for it). Nice.
This chip is definitely capable of more, however I am 95% sure that my motherboard has let me down with this one. I was initially stress testing @ 312 FSB (2808MHz) and had it stable at this setting through Orthos @ 1.45v in bios (not the full 12 hours tho, woohoo!) however Windows would often randomly lock up, and I would have huge troubles with cold boots - it would get stuck in the same place every time (code 50 on my Epox motherboard).
Tweaking chipset voltage made no difference whatsoever; would lock up no matter if the chipset voltage was 1.5v through to 1.8v (maximum the board will give it, and I don't trust my PSU much beyond this point anyway).
Dropping back to 300 FSB means a full 0.1v less vcore, and the CPU is solid stable (still testing memory with Memtest 86+ right now). Interestingly; I have stress tested up to 334 FSB before on this board (with CPU downed on the multiplier) and it was generally fine - this was some time ago however so the year of general aging would probably have put a stop to that.
Either way, happy with a 50% overclock on stock voltage, with core load temps being 42c max (PWM 49c); gained myself 200MHz from the last chip with 0.1v less as well
Click below for full image
http://www.dunedindrumnbass.com/imag.../overclock.jpg
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/9777/cpuxd4.th.jpg
very interesting i put my FSB 1:1 290, everest shows it right, but why doesn't Cpu-z show? :S
What FSB and what multi the CPU tab shows on CPU-Z?Quote:
Originally Posted by Heikit
The everest gives CPU/9 and CPU-Z CPU/10.
Can you give us a validated CPU-Z?
stealth
10char......
Opty 165 LCBQE 0711SPAW currently running at 300x9 @ 1.3v on water. No SS yet - I'm not done OC'ing ... ;)
Careful with that PWM , it's a little bit high .Quote:
Originally Posted by TMM
I just swapped out my Opty 165 for a Opty 170 LCB9E 0651 RPMW.
I'm 10 hours in running dual prime on Linux at 10 x 300 1.4V.
I'm hopefully on my way to the 3GHz club for the first time.
This one is running cool at 40c under prime on water.
My opty 165 took me to 2800MHz but lost stability over time.
Was last running it at 2.5 GHz.
That chip ran hot and needed 1.6V to achevie 2.8GHz.
My 170 was bought it at Newegg and it arrived two days ago.
Running DFI Lanparty UT NF4 SLI Expert.
1GB Crucial Balistic Tracer.
I'll post more once I'm sure it's prime stable.
I have a fan blowing over it and it hovers around 75C usually :shrug:. Without a fan it goes up to about 86C. These LCB9E are just very power hungry chips :). My PWM never exceeded 50C with my single core opty :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by bonzo_catalin
I'm running a 165 CCBBE 0617 @ 3.0 stable. 333x9 FSB. I did remove the HS for temps.
I would hope any 170+ could match this or do better honestly. I just dont see how 185's are barely getting to 3.0ghz and calling it good....I would shoot for 3.2+. I would love to get a 185 and play with to go above 3.0ghz, lowering the cpu multipler and increasing the FSB to get well above 3.0ghz seems possible..but S939 is slowly dying, and plan on doing upgrade at the end of the year.
Sounds like the issue I had...My core didnt have very good contact w/ the HS. Remove the HS and temps droped from 40idle to 22idle, load 65 (3 hours orthos) to an average of 37.3 (24hours of orthos)Quote:
have a fan blowing over it and it hovers around 75C usually . Without a fan it goes up to about 86C. These LCB9E are just very power hungry chips . My PWM never exceeded 50C with my single core opty
3Ghz at 1.3V.Quote:
Originally Posted by gromet
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/318/89268065op5.png
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=216598
Probably this chip can do a lot more,the only problem is how to keep temps low.
When i get the watercooling i will give it a try with ice water.
stealth
Nice OC! What's your load temp? And what vcore did you set in BIOS?Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth
Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by knopflerbruce
Load temps?No way,i don't even try to stress it with air temp at 32-35ºC,i am on air cooling.
That was only a test i was trying to hit 3.0Ghz with the less voltage i could,for every day use i run it at 2948mhz and my load temps goes up to 65ºC so is not worth to stress it at 3.0Ghz.
VCore voltage in BIOS 1.1125v.
stealth
here you go: http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=216813Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth
cpuz shows something wrong...it should be 1:1 and i dont know why it shows cpu/10 :confused:
Almost the same stepping I have, LCB9E 0651 MPMW, but it seems my memory don't want me to clock it to 3 ghz, may also be temperature, can boot at 3 ghz, but not stable for prime or orthos (the same basicly), and since my memory only wants to go to 260mhz and the only way to do that at the present is to clock cpu:ram -> 1:1 .. I gain alot from having my memory up there although I would really love get my 170 up to 3 ghz, that would be really sweet :) It clocks from stock 2.0 ghz @ 1.35V to 2.6 ghz @ 1.375V but I am suspicious that it is the memory controller that needs more voltage when I "OC" that ridicoulus 10mhz... my memory sticks are 250mhz, but when I say "oc'ing" really ANYTHING above 200mhz for memory is an oc :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by dsptech
I don't know why this happen,CPU-Z shows that your divider is 11/12 and not 1/1.Quote:
Originally Posted by Heikit
Both everest and CPU-Z work fine on my board and they give same results,a conflict maybe.
stealth
Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth
Holy load temps! WOW..Thats with 1.1 core volts? I was loading @ 38/32 when I was running with the HS installed @ 1.568 volts! Once I removed the HS everything dropped to well below stock setup @ 1.35volts. I would remove the HS on that sucker and let the OC'ing begin personally! Want to sell that processor :)
http://www.techpowerup.com/ocdb/data/411/cpuz1.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by gromet
That is with 1.1125v.
I will think about removing the HS,what difference will make in temps?
No,not before i push it well over 3.2Ghz:)
stealth
1.1125v (?) is insane lol. Do you have CPU overvoltage enabled?Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth
Yes,1.1125v in BIOS plus 0.205v that Overvoltage CPU vCore and mobo adds 1.3175v in windows.Quote:
Originally Posted by knopflerbruce
stealth
I see your HT-LINK is at 1365mhz, did you have to enable overvoltage SB and/or NB to make this stable? Any physical mods to the board? I removed the cooling-tape on PWM-mosfets (there's a long aluminium-cooler over the PWM area, I simply took it off, removed the tape and put on som artic cooler ceramique paste instead).Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth
No,nothing is overvoltage on the mobo,the only things i have enabled is OverVoltage CPU vCore and DDR VCore.Quote:
Originally Posted by freakBYnature
I can push the HT Link up to 1600 without any problems.
No mods on the board,still as i got it one and a half years ago.
stealth
Once I OC'd my 165 I was having temp issues like you are. My idles where 42/38 and under orthose they immediately went to 60 and would slowly creep up. I went with a water system instead thinking air just wasnt good enough, on h20 idle was 42/38 and load was exactly the same. I really didnt want to remove the HS, but I wanted to maintain the OC I had it was required. Was easy following the instructions here, and now on water the idle temps are 32/22....under load after 24hours of orthose the average temp for cores was 37.3 :)Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth
It made a huge difference imo, but I dont think I had good contact on my processor w/ the HS.
Those are some interesting results you have as well...Very nice.
And blah....my A8R32-MVP doesnt like anything above 1500 for HTT
Thanks gromet,
Very interesting...........i think i will follow the same steps,see how is going with the watercooling first and if temps still high then i can remove the HS.
Well,at the moment there are other priorities,so i have to be patient it will take a few months to get the watercooling.
stealth
Mine doesn't either, above 1400 will corrupt my drive if I don't watch it. Doesn't matter though, 283x4 still gives me ~1133 which is good enough. Remember not to push your HTT too much, because first of all it doesn't improve anything, and second, too high may lower performance because of errors in the HT link. Though I've also found HT speeds (too much) below 1000 to cause instability as well. RD580 likes it above 1000, just don't push it.Quote:
Originally Posted by gromet
Hello all. I have an opty 165 CCBBE 0615EPMW. I have had it very stable at 2.9 / 3.0 . expect for Super Pi . So I think it was the memory. Sorry don't remember the specs.
My DFI LP NF4 SLI-D died and I have sold off everthing expect the chip. I wanted to go Nforce 8500 anyway and replace the memory. I had some OZC pc4200 (ddr500) Gold EL stuff.
I broght a OCZ powerstream 600W. I have a Hyper 48 cooler.
I have a board that I will be selling but wanted to test the chip.
If this chip is good should I stay with 939 or go AM2? What board and memory should I get? I have tried reading thur all this tread but more confused than anything.
Thanks so much.
There are guys in here that they know more than me and they can tell you what this stepping can do.Quote:
Originally Posted by bernardmem
What i can tell you is that is not a good time to upgrade,not before Quad core is out.
As you said you have the board and you have the chip so you don't need much to make it run.
If you upgrade now to AM2 in a few months when Quad core come out AM2 will be past.
Look what happen to 939 socket,i slept the night and i had a high end machine and i woke up with a dead socket.
stealth
Sorry guys i don't know what happen.
stealth
CCBBE are some of the best Optys around imo. I have a CCBBE 0617 that runs 3.0ghz stable (I need 5+ hours before I say stable). Now I do question your "stable at 2.9/3.0 but cannot run Super Pi".....I can run superpi all day long, but fail at real stress test (orthos or prime95 in less then 10mins). I've run PI @ 3153 but have failed orthos in 10secs...So what is stable? I dont think PI is a very good example (depending on the size I guess), and I really question you failing PI but being stable. I think the system was unstable, but you ran it @ that speed. As long as your not having issues, whats the issue right? I just perfer being completely stable as can be in my OC.Quote:
Originally Posted by bernardmem
The processor is good...will fetch a decent price on Ebay or somewheres even though 165 prices are under a 100.00 now. As for your question? Are you asking weather to rebuild or go AM2? Personally I would go AM2 w/ a 6000+. With a good stepping you can get 3.5ghz which is impressive, plus the increase from DDR to DDR2. I remember reading that when the AM3's come out, they will be backwards compatable, meaning you can run a AM3 in a socket AM2 setup as AMD feels the price of DDR3 is too expensive. I would do some research on this to make sure, but I remember reading something along those lines, but maybe that is AM2+ setups. If I was going to build a new setup, thats what I would do, especially if later down the road I can upgrade to a AM3. S939 is taking a slow death...but its coming.
I am thinking on the same lines. If I have to pay for all new stuff (not counting the chip) I may as well go AM2. Pricing is about the same for either.
Sure AM3 is due out soon but who is to run out and do it for several months until most of the issues are addressed and price are a little more inline.
If I going to have "old" stuff , it may as well be "new old stuff".
I have an old celeron (a what?) 2.8ghz socket 487 I am thinking about getting a board and some memory for and using that awhile until I can everthing else together. A little over clock to 3.0 and say a gig of memory should be able to do what I want.
Anything is better than this PII 500 thing I am trying to on now.
Thanks for the input
Yea...I plan on going AM2 towards the end of the year getting ready for AM3. I dont think DDR3 is coming down soon in price. I'm just waiting for more boards that are AM2+ to come out, specifically one that supports Crossfire (I like my 2 x1950's right now). Soon as I find one that I like...the 6000+ is under 200! Thats great performance for so little, and the new steppings are getting great results.Quote:
Originally Posted by bernardmem
Just so you know I have the same stepping 165 and I can't get it 2.9ghz orthos stable no matter what voltage I put on it. Right now I'm sitting on 306x9 on stock volts, 12hrs orthos stable. I just got this cpu a few weeks ago so I still have some experimenting to do, but I think I've reached my limit on stock volts.Quote:
Originally Posted by bernardmem
I'm surprised that you can even boot up windows with 3.0ghz. I'm just saying that that cpu may not be that good.
gromet, ot, how much voltage to you put your crucials?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heikit
Im running 2.85v in the bios on the cruicals...
Right now Ive been playing with timings lately seeing which is best, but its coming out more mhz seems better then tighter timings for me atleast.
I put in a larger divider and I'm currently at 214mhz with 2.0-2-2-5, was seeing if it increased any performance, but I actually seem to have lost slight performance from 272mhz w/ 2.5-3-3-8
Well folks, my problem , at least as to which platform to go with. has been solved. My 165 is toast!! I got the Infinity R482 in and tested it with the buyer's 148 and it posted fine. My 165 did not. Not even a beep or keyboard flash.
Oh well, it must have been what caused the board to fail as well. Everthing else (memory, video, other cards) are still good.
Great chip while it was running.
I am going with a Biostar 7050-m2 and a Brie X2 3600 or higher and some good memory that I can use later. This is enought for me right now and something I afford. I can add a 8500 or higher later if I want to.
Stealth thats a nice oc with such a low vcore. I just recently got into OC'ing but never really would a forum with such a wide database for OPTY'sQuote:
Originally Posted by stealth
I have a opty 185 @ 3029 (13*233) on air but the vcore is too high for comfort.. which equals to too much heat. If there any other settings i can change to i can boot with lower vcore?
What's your vCore now ...?
My Opteron 185:
OSA185DAA6CD
LCB9E 0630BPMW
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/3...1547xf2.th.jpg
Max overclock:
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/637/recordix2.th.jpg
Rock Solid
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/3770/opty3pc4.th.jpg
Hi,Quote:
Originally Posted by lazy
That was about a week ago,now things are worst.
When air temp is over 40ºC as it is at the moment here in Greece and you are on air cooling you have three options,to turn off the PC and forget it until temps go down,to run at stock speeds(which is not much fun)or to overclock your system with the lowest voltage you can,trying to keep temps as low is possible.
Now even with the voltage at 1.3v load temps are over 65ºC so i need to lower the CPU speed.
Well,there are not special settings for that,you just have to try and see which is the lower voltage you can reach a specific overclock.
Let's say you want to reach 3.0Ghz.With the voltage you have now you can do it,then put the voltage one step down and try to boot.
If you can do 3.0Ghz lower the voltage for another step and try again,keep lowering the voltage until you will not be able to boot.
Then set the voltage to where you was able to boot and stress it(i use OCCT to test for stability http://www.ocbase.com/perestroika_en/index.php?Download )to see if is stable,if not then rise the voltage for a step and test again.
Keep doing this until you find the lower stable voltage you can run 3.0Ghz.
When you stress the system for stability monitor temps with CoreTemp
http://www.thecoolest.zerobrains.com/CoreTemp/ ,if load temp goes at 60ºC then you need to lower the CPU speed,also lower the voltage and try again.
A good overclock is the one which run stable and cool.
I hope this helps.
What mobo you have and what is your VCore now?
stealth
Hi All
Picked up a couple more. LCBQE 0712UPAW
Smiffy
my current vcore is 1.4v on an Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe SPP. (pretty much the same mb as you)
my temps are around 44 @ idle only after have my Zalman 9700 on max with 3 fans running on medium spd.
While im gaming, it goes up to about 54-57 but once i start running some stablity test (Orthos / Dual Prime *small Ftts and such it goes up to 62c
Not sure what my ambient temps are but i have my AC on 65F when im home, so i doubt the temps are gonna be dropping anymore then 44 on idle
1.4v in BIOS?Have you Overvoltage CPU VCore enabled?Quote:
Originally Posted by lazy
stealth
i dont think i changed any other option.... so no
btw my stepping is LCBBE 0628 BPMW
is that a good or a bad stepping?
To add or to lower the voltage on this mobo you need to enable Over Voltage CPU VCore in BIOS.Quote:
Originally Posted by lazy
This mobo will add 0.205v to the value you have in BIOS when you enable OverVoltage CPU VCore,so if you want your voltage to be something like 1.305v in windows the value you need to put in BIOS must be 1.1v.(always you need to add to the value you have in BIOS 0.205v to find your correct voltage in windows,if you have Over Voltage CPU VCore enable).
If you want your voltage to be 1.4v then the value you need to put in BIOS is 1.2v,so 1.2v in BIOS plus 0.205V OverVoltage CPU VCore adds,1.405v in windows.
This is really important to understand because if you enable OverVoltage CPU VCore in BIOS and leave the voltage at 1.4v,then your voltage will be 1.605v in windows!!
I don't know much about steppings but there are other guys in here they can tell you about it.
stealth
Then how come cpu-z says otherwise? is there another program i can rely on to give me the correct voltage?
Take a look at this.... cpu-z is pretty accurate with my mobo.Quote:
Originally Posted by lazy
is there another program i can compare cpu-z with for the voltage?
If you have a look at this http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/318/89268065op5.png ,CPU-Z gives the value i have in BIOS...almost,(1.1125v in BIOS) and AI Booster and probe give 1.3v,which is not correct also(1.3175v is the correct voltage),but is the closest i can get.Quote:
Originally Posted by lazy
CPU-Z sometimes will give you the votage in BIOS and other times the voltage in windows,use AI Booster,PC Probe,SpeedFan,Hmonitor or SensorsView Pro(the last two aren't freeware)and see which will give the closest to your calculation.
But mostly you have to rely on your calculation when you have OverVoltage CPU VCore enabled,the value in BIOS plus 0.205v=your correct voltage.
stealth
Amen. If one looks at it like this it gets a whole lot easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth
1. What you set it for is one thing
2. What it gets is another thing
3. Will it measure it correct is the third
4. Is the SOFTWARE correct?
5. Is your PSU giving correct current?
6. Does your board have a vdroop?
These are just a few things to consider, A8N32-SLI DELUXE overvolts just a notch, so setting 1.375V in bios gives me 1.41V in windows, under load that is, when idle it says 1.42~1.44V, so it may overvolt from default, so therefore you should be careful when giving it more juice, anytime! :)
This is a vdroop you mention above but i am talking about idle values.Quote:
Originally Posted by freakBYnature
http://support.asus.com/faq/faq.aspx...Language=en-us
If we consider that all the hardware on the system works fine then,from what i know at defaults this mobo adds 0.005v for the NOS and AI Booster futures to be able to reach the 10% overclock.
If i enable OverVoltage CPU VCore in BIOS then the system adds 0.2V which is too much voltage,at least this is what happen on my mobo.
Also this is what i have read in all forums for the A8N32-SLI deluxe mobo.
stealth
alright i double checked my motherboard but i do not have overvolt enabled.
between the programs i use*speedfan, cpu-z, coretemp* all show the voltage and out of all of em Coretemp has the exact value as the bios.
After an OC, if the computer locks up or fails orthos in the 1st 5mins on a core, what does this mean?
Means your system is unstable.Quote:
Originally Posted by lazy
What test in orthos where you running?
You can test CPU (small FFTS)
You can test RAM (large FFTS)
then you can blend
If you failed doing blend...try running just the CPU (small FFTS) and see what happens. IF you pass that after 5+ hours with no errors, no heating issues (watch you temps with several programs)...Try running the RAM to see what happens...
If your failing on CPU stress (small FFTS)....You have a few choices...Increase the volts (its not as bad as it sounds, I running 1.57 on my opty 165)...With higher volts means slightly higher temps, you just need to watch your temps. Depending on your board, make sure HT is around 1k
If your failing on the RAM....You can increase your timmings to see if that helps, increase ram voltage (dont go too high though, find out what your ram is suppose to run @), or in most cases put in a larger divider to keep the ram running close to 200mhz (ddr400) or what ever ratting your ram is.
I suppose it means that you haven't test every part of your system separately and by guessing you never going to find out.Quote:
Originally Posted by lazy
Is it your mobo that can't do more FSB?Is it your Ram that can't go that high?Or is it your CPU that is not stable that high?Heat issue?
You need some more voltage on your CPU or your Ram?May you can loose a bit Ram timings.See what i mean?
stealth
i did lower the voltage last night * i was trying to see how low i can keep my voltage. and also see what my max FSB for this motherboard is.
my memory timing is 1t 3-4-4-12 with my stock timings @ 2-3-2-5
divider was @ 250 but i changed it to 233
Yeah, 0.205V to be excact... but enabling overvolt makes it more dead solid than not, so what you do if you want 1.5V is that you set vcore to 1.3V and overvolt on, which is 1.3 + 0.205 = 1.505VQuote:
Originally Posted by stealth
Probably the consequence of you putting on a 250 divider on RAM, if not you should lower your OC or raise volts... mem timings can be FUBAR as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by lazy
This can make any motherboard unstable, setting dividers like that. The highest SMART divider (actually CPU 1:1) is 200 or DDR400 (which are the same and isn't a divider at all). Going below this is great, but not above. So setting it to 233 or 250 makes the bandwith go down.Quote:
Originally Posted by lazy
And by the way, PC4000 or if you want DDR500 is tested with an FSB of 250... not a divider 250, so if you want your CPU to be stock and your RAM to go stock as well you'd be much better off with lowering your cpu-multi, leaving RAM at 200 and raising FSB to 250! :up:
I think we comfuse each other,we say the same things with different words:)
"so setting 1.375V in bios gives me 1.41V in windows, under load that is, when idle it says 1.42~1.44V"
Vdroop is when the voltage drops under load.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/....php?p=1729388
Asus support page says the same thing.
"so what you do if you want 1.5V is that you set vcore to 1.3V and overvolt on, which is 1.3 + 0.205 = 1.505V"
This is exactly what i do when i overvolt my CPU,i don't know any other way.
stealth
Yeah, we are saying the same except for one thing :) You don't understand the point I'm making about A8N32-SLI DELUXE. When I said overvolt in this meaning I didn't mean the "enable overvolt cpu"-option in BIOS, but I was talking about the thing that when you set one vcore in bios it actually is given out a much higher voltage than set. Like I'm saying below.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth
1.35 = 1.39
1.375 = 1.44
etc etc etc
If you mean without OverVoltage CPU VCore enabled then...,Quote:
Originally Posted by freakBYnature
I have the board for one and a half year but only one time i tried to set the voltage higher than stock without OverVoltage CPU VCore enabled,i saw that there is not effect and i didn't notice the difference you mention,i don't know why this happen.
"Over-Voltage CPU Vcore: When [Enabled] this setting adds 0.200v to the vCore setting (see below). For some reason the vCore setting below won't let you go above ~1.425v even though it looks like it does. If you need more voltage than ~1.425v you will need to [Enable] Over-Voltage CPU."
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=468038
Maybe i should try more but i don't see the reason if it has no effect on the CPU without OverVoltage CPU VCore enabled.
stealth
Hi guys,
Can anyone tell for sure what one long and three short beeps mean on the A8N32-SLI Deluxe BIOS?
Don't tell me to google it because i already did it.
stealth
Hi!
can anybody help me, my computer doesn't boot 2800mhz, i added voltage to cpu 1.450V and ram 2.9V, i put ram divider to 133 but nothing still :(
my sys:
DFI LP Sli-dr expert
opteron 165, good stepping
and Crucial Ballistix Tracer PC4000 2GB Kit
Set hypertransport multiplier to 3x or 4x, kinda depends on what your board will do, but at 3x it should boot anyway. Raise your RAM timings, overclocking isn't done in a minute, you need to use time to get to know your board, your cpu and your ram :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Heikit
And you shouldn't have to set 2.9V on RAM, it's to much without active RAM-COOLING!!! They get hot as hell there, it's micron chips on your crucial, and they like around 2.8~2.85V on stock/light oc :)
It may be that your cpu won't do 2.8 GHz, and anyway you shouldn't have to set 133 divider, 166 is very possible for pc4000 ram, it all depends on tref, trc and other non-performance subtimings, but they have to do with stability of if all :)
What really mean one long and three short beeps on the A8N32-SLI Deluxe BIOS?
I suppose nobady had this problem before.
I am trying to help a friend,he is getting at start up one long and three short beeps on his A8N32-SLI Deluxe.
According to this,
http://bioscentral.com/beepcodes/amibeep.htm
One long and three short beeps is a memory error.
But when i remove all the Ram from my system i get one long and two short beeps.
So,if one long and two short beeps is a memory error,then one long and three short beeps what is it mean?A video error?
You may ask why i don't remove the video card to see what beeps i will get.
My 8800GTX just fit in the case and to remove it i have to remove all HDs,my sound card,plus two fans i have in there.
If anybady with an A8N32-SLI Deluxe can help we really appreciate it,if not then i have to remove my graphics.
Thanks.
stealth
I don't know what it means, but the first thing I would do is clearing my CMOS! Bios reset! This is done by a jumper-change inside the case, then change it back to where it was (very important!!)... if you can't find this jumper you could always just take out the battery on the mobo and leave it off for about three seconds and then put it back, it will do the same thing as the jumper reset does.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth
Thanks for the answer.Quote:
Originally Posted by freakBYnature
Already did this,he cleared the CMOS,re-seat the Ram,tried with one stick of Ram in B1 slot,same thing happens.
I am afraid we are looking in the wrong place if it's the video and not the Ram.
He hasn't got another graphics card at the moment to try,that is why we are asking if someone know for sure what is it mean.
Thanks a lot.
stealth
Ok, something like this happened with my kids MSI K9N NEO-F AM2 mobo, but without the beeps.. couldn't or wouldn't post at all. The mobo itself was gone bad, I switched it with another mobo and all worked well again. It isn't always the video-card when you can't post.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth
I check it in this order IF THE MACHINE TURNS ON BUT THE SCREEN IS BLANK... but then you have to replace things with new ones to check it.
1: Motherboard!
2: Graphic Card
3: RAM
Now it is easier, less pain-staking and also LESS EXPENCIVE to do it in another sequense, like checking the RAM first, or the graphic card, but all in all it is a time-taking experience either way what you do first and last... and it all depends mostly on how lucky you are how fast or in what order you find the faulty part.
Now if the computer turns on, but within seconds turns it self off again it is more likely that it is the CPU gone bad.
The problem is specific because we get a BIOS beep code at P.O.S.T.,the only problem is to understand what is it mean.Quote:
Originally Posted by freakBYnature
It will be Ram or graphics.
I will try to contact Asus tech support.
Thanks.
stealth
You do that, cause I surely can't help you any more than with I already wrote previously. Let us know, there are many of us using this board, so we also will know if this happens with us! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth
Same cpu watercooled +18c:Quote:
Originally Posted by Electroid
Vcore 1.644V
DFI nF4 Sli-Expert
SuperPi 1m (maxed): 3246MHz
3dmark stable: 3075-3100MHz
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smiffy
How's the stepping working for you? Also, curious to know where you ordered them from?
well i havent been here for a week and just had some questions again.
what would the different be between manually setting the vcore to 1.5 and setting the overvoltage on and making it just add the .25 value
If you put the voltage in BIOS at 1.5v and OverVoltage CPU VCore enable then your voltage will be 1.75v.Quote:
Originally Posted by lazy
This is too much voltage and i don't think your processor can resist that much.
Voltage will kill your CPU even faster than heat.
stealth
my overvoltage is disabled but my question is what would be the difference of having the overvoltage on?
ie. setting overvoltage on and 1.3 + .25 = 1.55 and
setting overvoltage off and just setting it to 1.55 from the start
Even if you set the voltage at 1.55v,without OverVoltage CPU VCore enabled there is not any effect on the CPU.Quote:
Originally Posted by lazy
"Processor Voltage settings look like you can go above 1.425v but in my experience that's just an illusion. I set it to 1.500v but CPU-Z was still reading 1.425v, which doesn't happen if I [Enable] Over-Voltage and set the VID to 1.3v. If you need more voltage than ~1.425v you'll need to [Enable] Over-Voltage CPU Vcore (above) and remember to set Processor Voltage 0.2v lower than you want."
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=468038
stealth
On Asus A8N32-SLI DELUXE enabling overvoltage will give you 0.205V, not 0.25V :)Quote:
Originally Posted by lazy
You should read this page:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=80491&page=76
EDIT: ehemm... didn't notice you there ... sorry :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by freakBYnature
so if i would like a better overclock, i should leave my ram 1:1 and just raise the fsb?
is that why i cant have my fsb higher then 235 cause of my ram being 250?
I can't tell you for sure what your error code is but my interpretation goes like this: If 1 long, 2 short is no memory then 1 long, 3 short is still a memory error. The one long should be the main POST check followed by the error code - in this case 3 short (or 2 short for no memory installed). Either way, 2 or 3 short, it's a memory error.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth
Did your friend try both RAM sticks in the B1 slot or just one of them? If they only tried one then it could have been the bad stick they tried. If that's been done then double check the slots for dirt/dust.
I'm also curious if this is an error that happened after the system had been running or if it was a new install or maybe new RAM or something added or ...???
Probably. As said, leave the RAM at 200 and adjust the CPU multi and FSB for your CPU speed ...Quote:
Originally Posted by lazy
Looks like the memory controller on the newest LCB9E's kick ass!
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/7035/tccdlf4.th.png
I am trying to contact Asus tech support to find out what is it mean.Quote:
Originally Posted by QuietIce
Well,the friend i tried to help is "MinoasPrince"so you already know what happen.
I will keep trying to contact Asus for the beep codes,i let you know as soon i find out.
Thank you very much.
stealth
Yes, mucho grande better overclock... any divider over 200 just makes the bandwith go down on s939. Divider 200 or below is best.. on our mobo (A8N32-SLI Deluxe), the 183 is kind of crap, but 200 is the best, 166 can also give you pretty nice results going cpu:ram async :)Quote:
Originally Posted by lazy
My cpu now is 2.8 GHz and DDR466... even though I have DDR500 RAM I don't mind, that is with FSB 200, CPU 10x, divider 166. CPU volts are set to 1.2v + enable overvolt option ON and RAM VOLT is 2.65 :)
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=220934
... I'm waiting for 2x512 G.SKILL PC4800 TCCD in the mail now ;)
Yep - I know that story, it's history, and the ending. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth
Thanks for getting back to me about it ...!
Well after hrs of trying oc my opty pass what i currently have i am failing..
is there anything else that i can do to make it faster?
FSB - 235 / Multi - 13 / HTT - 4 / Voltage - 1.4 / Overvoltage - Off
3-4-4-12 @ 200 divider +2.6volt
My computer wont boot pass 240fsb until i raise the voltage pass 1.5
Ive tried higher fsb and lower multi and it boots, but it resets before it goes into window or it boots into windows and fails orthos small ftts
do i have to change the sb -> nb frequency? or change the voltage for the nb and sb? whAt is holding my computer back from going higher?