Those sticks are what 6 Layer PCB right?
Those sticks are what 6 Layer PCB right?
sorry, bro, don't know..
Here ya go!
I know this is going slightly off topic but if anyone could point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.
I have been using a Thermaltake Ultra 120 Xtreme for a little while now on various boards with good results. last night I switched back from water to air & am now having problems getting a good seat to the CPU.
My problem is the xtreme's mounting hardware is not applying enough clamp pressure on the CPU & the heatsink therefore is loose & resulting in poor contact with the CPU.
I have temporarily used the mounting bolts & springs from my D-Tek waterblock to re-fit the Xtreme & last night run prime @ 3.8GHz on the 913 BIOS & all went fine however I want to use my D-Tek block on something else & need the mounting bolts back.
Is anyone else having problems with the TRUE & if so how have you got round it.
Does anyone know if the older Ultra 120's bracket will fit between the heatpipes on the Xtreme & therefore allow me to use the older more substantial bracket if I can find one.
Finally does anyone know where I can buy a replacement mounting kit for the TRUE in the UK
CN.
@C-N,
is it really that loose?, mine is twitching a little..
It has always moved around once tightened up yet worked great up until now. Last night I had 10oC difference between cores which rang alarm bells as my Q6600 normally runs all 4 cores bang on the same under full load.Quote:
Originally Posted by dzeuk_ph
I have lapped my TRUE which probably doesn't help the clamp pressure but it has worked on several boards since its been lapped.
I am looking around on Google as we speak looking for an answer & so far all I have turned up is shimming the bracket up a bit, I was hoping for a more substantial solution like a different upper bracket or a stud kit but so far I have drawn a blank.
CN
as far as i know, placing a coin in between the bracket and the heatsink solved that swiveling problem..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
No problem m8!:up: Anyway, thx for the reply! First I will try my kit of Gskill DDR2 PC8500 HK 2GB (F2-8500CL5D-2GBHK)!
I tried the coin, but it's kind of a temp solution that's a bit tough to center. Velcro stuck to the top of the base has been the best solution for me. Those scissor clamps only make contact on one leg. It's a horrible solution and really mars an otherwise killer heatsink.
Easy Mod For Ultra-120 eXtreme
Thanks for the link thats just the sort of thread I was looking for :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jodiuh
I am going to try adding washers under the head of the screws next time I have the heatsink off.
If that fails i think I will re jig the center screw for the scissor clamp using a larger screw & thicker washer so that the clamp pushes from the middle & use longer studs through the backplate with knurled nuts like the DD waterblocks use which should make it easier to fit as well.
CN.
Just epoxy (I used JB-qwik myself) and stick on some 3/4" x 1/16" or thicker washers until you get a snug fit (took me 2). keeps the 'X' centered JUST FINE
Also get:
1. spare thermalright backplate (sidewinder sells them) and re-tap the holes for 6-32. The raised section of where the screws come out will prolly break - THIS IS GOOD so it does NOT stick out above the board when the whole thing is put together.
2. 4 x 2-3" 6-32 roundhead screws
3. 4 x 6-32 nuts (nylon preferred)
4. 4 x 6-32 plastic washers
5. 8 x 6-32 brass washers
6. 6 x 6-32 knurled brass thumbnuts (4 + 2 spares)
7. Pop springs off the screws that came w/ the TRU/E.
First a TEST FIT....
Sit MB on table w/ antistatic, etc.
Place CPU in socket and TR Ultra / xtreme on top and MEASURE from MB to bottom fins of TRU/E.
ADD 1/4" to that and cut the 1 screw to that length (don't count screw head in length) If in doubt CUT LONGER!!! (you can always trim them down later). IF they are too long the fan won't where it is supposed to.
Now screw the 1 screw thru the Backplate, then put it through the MB & place the TRU/E on it, then a brass washer, then the spring, then another washer. You should have enough room left to put on the knurled thumbsnut :D )
Assuming all is well, take it apart one last time, then cut the screw if you have to adjust and then the other 3 to the same length..
Screw in all the screws through the back of the backplate and use the nylon nuts to 'lock it down' to the motherboard (DON'T pull the covering off the tape :nono: )
Then put the cpu in, then just drop the TRU/E & the 'X' onto the screws, then washers, then springs, then washers again, then knurled nuts.
Tighten the screws evenly and check your temps in the bios and adjust until you are happy.
This Technique works fine on my T2R for both AIR w/ the TRUE, and water (Fuzion, but screws are longer).
Was 60c @ 3.6 GHz on a G0 Q6600 here w/ the TRUE & 1.4 vcore - folds like a charm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jodiuh
@ C-N.........I have a Solution that will fix you Right up:) Use the Copper Plate for the TransPiper :clap: :clap: :clap:
Got some different RAM coming to try out. The G Skill (not HZ) that I am running now are solid but not for OC.
These sticks are really for an AM2 board to run 1t and 4 4 4 15. I prefer speed over timings and think that properly loosened up these should be about as good as the HZ in the P5K. If I can nip at 1200 5 5 5 18 I'll be a happy camper.Quote:
OCZ Titanium Dual Channel 2048MB PC6400 DDR2 800MHz EPP Memory (2 x 1024MB).
Model # OCZ2T8002GK
I'll shout back when I see what OCZ does on the DFI...if nothing else they are color-coordinated :D
I am sure that the OCZ will Rip IT up seeing as how OCZ works very closely with D.F.I its really a winning combination!:D
Running Team Xtreem DDR2 @1200MHz 5-5-5-15 2.45v...i get lock ups in wondows after 10mins. temps are good (25-30c actually). Any help please.:(Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
Doh:eek: Hmmm...perhaps may be a 8 Layer PCB Incompatibility issue after all.Quote:
Originally Posted by emoners
Don't take that as actual "FACT" pure speculation at this point!
run windows memtest , the dos version seems to pass easier. and try 5-5-5-18 with 2.45 or less.Quote:
Originally Posted by emoners
This board kill me one stick of Team with 2,4v that was the voltage recomended by Team for PC 8500, i've got e new ones and i'm testing it, latter i will give some feedbackQuote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
Thanks MJRL you're Participation is greatly appreciated:) Go to further the cause and the more help and group participation the better it is for everyone potential customers too!:up:
Well it took me a little while to be sure about the OC on the DFI--but it is turning a G0 Q6600 at 3600 RPM :D and Folding and no flaws, no dropped WUs. To me that is a stable OC. There is NO WAY I can get my P5K to do that with the B3 in there now. I think this board is worth the extra effort/expense.
And I have not even really started:up:
It is not an 8 layer issue per se, the 9200 FLex is 8 layer also. There are a few different 8 layer pcb's out there. My feeling is that it is addressable in a bios fix, as 1 stick works fine in most cases, more likely some dual channel registers need setting in bios (drive strengths, ODT termination values etc), bios engineer level adjustments.
I am using 4gb of flex here now approaching an 8 hour run @ ddr 1104, using only 2.12vdimm.. With very good performance too.
regards
Raja
Actually i did...even up to almost 2hours with no errors. Gonna try running it at lower speed.:(Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyz
Is there something wrong with DFI's homepage? I'm getting JSP Error.
Well I have my Cell Shock in EVGA 680i Priming as we speak 4-4-4-12 1155mhz 3:4 @2.3vdimm on the 1066 Strap
Whats faster 4:5 or 3:4 on 1066 strap??? 4:5 is not a selectable option on this Mobo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
So far after Just Flashing to (P30) Bios on EVGA 680i TR .......Running E6600 @ 3217MHZ X 9 Multi ....RAM @ 1074 mhz ~ 4-4-4-12 ~ 2:3 Divider @ 2.25vdimm:)